BUYERS-GUIDE

Overview
The TR-7 engine is an 95 hp iron block, aluminum head 2L straight-4 matched to 4 & 5 speed trans. Top speeds are around 110 mph, 0-60 in 11 sec.

Automatic transmissions were available from 1979 until the end of production for both the TR-7 and the TR-8.

Fixed head TR-7's were manufactured from 1975-1980. Prices generally range from $500-$7000.

Convertible TR-7's were manufactured from 1979-1981. Prices generally range from $1000-$6000.

Special editions
Rally (a.k.a Victory?), Spoke wheels, stripes + other stuff.
Anniversary 1979 or 80, *factory* fogs, TR8 steering wheel, alloys?
Spider, the best. convertible, Black with red letters, special alloy wheels.
The TR-8 (aka TR-7 V8) generally available in the US only. These are the most desirable examples of this style. Upgrades include a lightweight aluminum 135 bhp 3.5L Rover/Buick V8, enhanced brakes/cooling and suspension. Top speeds ~135 mph, 0-60 in 8.4 sec. Most had 5-speed transmissions. Prices range from $5K-$12K.

There are about 150 or so prototype TR-8 coupes that were imported to the USA in 1978/79. None of those cars were sold as new, although most were, infact, eventually sold off as used cars. A good portion of the prototypes had automatic gearboxes.

TR-8's were sold in Europe and Canada, although not in large numbers. 90 percent of all TR-8 production came to the USA. Of the total TR-8 production, most are 1980 models.
Approximately 20-25% of total TR8 production had standard Bosch L-Jetronic Fuel Injection. The computer (ECU) on the TR8 is Lucas and can be trouble however. The fuel injected TR7s have Bosch ECUs. Parts are readily available.

Production
Caution: only rough numbers here! See the Registry Pages for more info.

1975: ~10000 coupes
1976: Victory edition released this year?
        ?? coupes
1977: Rally edition released this year?
        ?? coupes
1978: Spider editon release this year? Prototype TR-8 coupes appear.
        ?? TR-7 coupes
        ?? TR-8 coupes:
1979: TR-7 convertible introduced, bulge in hood appears.
        ?? TR-7 coupes
        ?? TR-7 convertibles
        ?? TR-8 coupes:
1980: TR-8 coupes and convertibles introduced, FI appears in CA.
        ?? TR-7 coupes
        ?? TR-7 convertibles
       100 TR-8 coupes:         ("A" VIN code)
      2500 TR-8 convertibles:  (Carb'd with CA cars having FI)
1981: Last Year of production.  All (except UK) are Fuel Injected.
         0  TR-7 coupes
        ?? TR-7 convertibles
       300 TR-8 convertibles (196 US, ~80 Canada) ("B" code)
1982: ~20 TR-8 convertibles imported to Canada   ("C" code)

Problems
The TR-7 straight-4 engine is not one of the finest that Triumph ever made. Bottom half is cast iron, top half aluminium.
Early models experienced problems with warped heads, head gasket trouble, etc. Many TR7/8's are prone to electrical problems (usually lousy switches and the like).  Early TR-7's have a rather tarnished reputation due to quality control problems. Things seem to have improved after 1979.

Braking distance was never a high point with either the TR-7's or 8's. Despite the bad reputation, the TR-7 can be a good car with proper maintenance and attention.

General Purchasing Rules

  1. Try to find a TR-8 :-)
  2. Avoid the 4-speed trans at all costs (75-76).
  3. Avoid 7's with the outline TR-7 decals (75-77?).
  4. Avoid early 7's if possible (see 2 and 3) (75-77).
  5. The later the better (80-81 the best).
  6. Convertibles were made during the best years (79-81).
  7. The TR-8 alloy wheels appeared on some later TR-7's. The TR-7 Spider edition had a special version of the TR8 alloy wheel and were painted a brighter silver.
  8. Much of the interior and some engine stuff is plastic. Watch for damage.
  9. Make sure that the electrics work. Dipping headlights are expensive to replace.
  10. Check wheel wells for damage.
  11. Many 7-8's have had their front air dams ripped off. Check dam mounts and bottom of radiator for damage.
  12. Check the rear suspension carefully for damage.
  13. 7’s were prone to overheating. Watch for warped head: (White exhaust smoke, low compression, contaminated oil).
  14. Make sure the original emmissions equip is still there. Replacement is expen$ive.
     

TR7 - Classic Choice
The following is excerpted from an article in the August 1990 issue of Thoroughbred & Classic Cars titled "TR7 - Classic Choice", written by Graham Robson. I've sent the entire article (with pictures) to David Huddleson for possible future publication in the TR8CCA newsletter. Thoroughbred & Classic Cars is the American name for the British magazine Classic Cars.

What to look for
Although the TR7 has been out of production for nine years, we have not heard of a restoration specialist.
Enthusiasts must rely on Rover dealerships for parts supply, and on fading memories for restoration expertise.

Charles Golding of Dennis Golding Motor Engineers, Chingford (tel. 081-529-7979) not only used to run the workshop at the old Triumph-London service centre on Western Avenue, but has rallied an ex-works TR8 and has worked on many other TR7s in the past few years. His TR7 experience is both good, and bad...

Bodywork
"Except in isolated areas, the TR7/TR8 monocoque structure seems to last well, until rust takes hold in several important places. Coupes and convertibles have a similar corrosion record and there are some awfully rotten TR7s about these days, since the oldest UK market examples are nearly 24 years old. Although the whole car is susceptible to rust when it gets older - none of the shell is galvanized, or treated with ultra-efficient corrosion proofing material - the worst visible area of the shell is the seam at the rear wing/sill junction; it's external, and open, and can rot right through.

The biggest potential structure problem is where the rear suspension trailing arms pivot from the underside of the floor; at this point there is flexure, which tends to rot. To spot corrosion signs slide the seats forward, lift up the carpets and look at the floorpan from inside the car. Dennis has actually seen this section pulling out of the floor.
The semi-trailing arm locations, on the other hand, are higher and better protected, and rarely give trouble.

More potential trouble spots are the front suspension turrets, which are heavily stressed, and the front and rear wings (inner *and* outer, where there are water and filth traps). But here's a cautionary comment - not only do rear wings rot, along with the inner panels, but replacement parts are no longer available from factory sources. The headlamp pods are cast aluminium and regularly shed their paint.

The panel at the base of the screen, when removed, exposes a water trap which may have attacked the whole of the bulkhead. The bonnet and boot panels, where double-skinned, can start to blister through. Any car offered with filler at the corners can be hiding real trouble elsewhere.

The entire front suspension and steering is supported by a sturdy sub-frame, which looks expensive. Unlike those fitted to Minis, however, these seeem to be very robust and should not have gone seriously rusty."

Original authors: Lawrence and Tim Buja
Original HTML Markup: Bryan Oakley
New HTML markup: Johan Vorsterman van Oijen