These are the details for a strut brace I made for my TR7 2ltr, it will not clear the air cleaner / injection system on 3.5 litres. Sorry!!!!
I don't think its
entirely necessary except for full on race/rally cars but it was very cheap to make and weighs very little so why not! (0.2 moderator: but it's also looking good ;-D) Take of 4 nuts and the strutbrace is removed. The
alum. discs help strengthen the top of the strut towers. No bonnet mods are required.
STEP 1:
Remove the strut mount from the car. Knock out the three short 5/16" UNF bolts and replace with 5/16" x 7/8" long High Tensile bolts. Tack weld the heads to the underside of the strut mount. Make
sure you protect the rubber from heat and sparks.
STEP 2:
Make 6mm thick alum disc approx 135mm dia with an extension on one side. Match drill the three holes to suit your strut mount. Attach the disc to the mount. Drill a fourth hole thru the disc and thru the mount.
Tack weld a fourth H/T bolt in this hole. Slot the 4 holes in the disc to allow camber adjustment. NOTE: by grinding 3mm off the outer edge on one side of the
strut mount I was able to get 2.5 degrees negative camber.
STEP 3:
Lay the disc on the strut tower and drill and slot the new 4th hole. Install the strut mount and the disc and bolt down with Nyloc nuts. Drill 2 holes in a piece of 40x40x6 alum. angle to suit the 2 bolts on the
strut. Install this bracket with the Nyloc nuts.
STEP 4:
Repeat for the other side.
STEP 5:
I used 25mm OD heavy wall alum.tubing for the brace. Measure the length between the two brackets with the bolts set fully back in the slots. Cut a piece of tube to suit between the brackets. Trial fit the brace
to determine if and where you have to bend it to clear air cleaner, etc. Refit the brace and adjust the brackets in to fit. Tack weld the brace to the brackets while protecting the engine / towers from heat
and sparks. Remove the assembly and fully weld.