WWWedge Ezine, Feb 15th, 1998 edition |
WWWedge Ezine
It's here to help you
Current readers: 126 February 16 1998, Year 1, no. 3
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The purpose of this newsletter is to give (technical) information
about the British classic car Triumph TR7 and TR8.
To make this newsletter a success I need your HELP:
o Let me know if this newsletter contains the information you're
looking for.
o Let me know if you want to write a feature article.
o Let me know if you have suggestions, improvements, etc.
o Let me know if you find this newsletter useful and practical, and
if there is anything you would like to see covered.
You can subscribe/unsubscribe to this newsletter at
http://www.team.net/TR8/
For comments, articles, etc. send a e-mail to
workshop@voskotan.demon.nl
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THE WEDGE TEAM
The WWWedge website is entirely maintained by volunteers.
Johan Vorsterman van Oijen is responsible for the design and the
daily updates. Mark Elbers is fully occupied with the Registry pages.
Eric Teunissen is responsible for the TR Scale Models pages.
The WWWedge Ezine newsletter is moderated by yours truly (Johan
Vorsterman van Oijen), and my native language isn't English.
But I'll try to do my utmost best to create readable articles.
To get started the WWWedge Ezine newsletter is heavenly based on
the Wedge Tips collected by Philip Johnstone from Australia.
Another source is the TR7/8 mailing list. I will extracts threads
from this list and publish them in this newsletter.
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INTRODUCTION
Hi all,
I'm very proud of this edition of the Ezine. A lot of articles,
URL's, tips, etc. What makes me most proud is the participating of
many Ezine readers. That's GREAT, really great.
I want to explain one thing; I'm not a tech wizard (at least
not to cars). I'm trying to write tech articles thru the eyes of
a DIY artist who isn't afraid to work on his wedge. My knowledge
comes from books, colleagues, Internet, friends, TR7/8 mailing list,
etc.
Don't wanna make this introduction to long (remember the 30kb size
limit). My wedge came thru the MOT. No, not the first time but the
second time. It appeared that my drivers seat was broken. I wanted
to weld the seat but the damage was greater than I had foreseen.
The material was to rusty and the whole seat should be renewed. My
time was limited (I had only one week before the second MOT). I
decided to look at the Dutch club pages and found an ad. for a TR7
FHC without engine. I mailed the guy asking for seats and to my
surprise he answered positive. Also very lucky that he only lived
15 miles away. I raced to him and bought two seats for $75 USD.
Unfortenately they were the wrong color (green/black check). I have
blue velours trimming but as you may have noticed thru the TR7/8
mailing list, this trimming isn't available anymore.
The wedge passed the second MOT but now I have a odd car with
blue/green/black interior. It's time to consider a body-off
restoration with new trimming, the whole lot....keep dreaming man!
PS. Sorry didn't succeed to make the dead-line. You know the one
about getting the Man Pages ready. Well this URL will be announced
next week.
Regards,
Johan Vorsterman van Oijen, Apeldoorn (Netherlands).
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= M A I N T O P I C S = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Feature Article(s)
o Suspension bushes/shocks
o Aftermarket wheels
o Do it yourself strutbrace (TR7 2.0)
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= = F E A T U R E A R T I C L E (S) = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
SUSPENSION BUSHES/SHOCKS
After the recent thread at the TR7/8 mailing list, this compilation
of messages about bushes/shocks can be useful.
If you are going to replace bushes, fit UPRATED items.
You can notice worn rear bushes if the rear-end starts to steer the
car! To test, drive along a long fast-ish bend and vary the power (be
careful, don't crash). If the rear end seems to steer the car then
there is too much compliance to the rear bushing.
If you are using UPRATED bushes then also UPRATED shocks/dampers and
UPRATED springs should be used (more about springs later). SPAX and
KONI are well-known, also KYB is frequently used.
Back in 1992 Mike Jeffreys ( jeffremj@boat.bt.com ) posted a list
of suspension mods. Up till now it's very helpful, so here it is.
Front Type Remark
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Inner track control bush UPRATED A hard bush should not cause
harshness and will firm-up the
handling (not the ride)
Anti-roll bar end bushes UPRATED I'm running hardened bushes
without problems of harshness
Anti-roll bar centre bushes UPRATED
Subframe bushes Standard Uprated are too harsh
Shock absorbers Adjust Use new ones! SPAX set to
uprated spring, or overdamped
standard springing
Anti-dive kit Probably not needed with above
mentioned items
Rear Type Remark
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Large bushes Hard Use only the solid types (that
is, not those with the cutouts)
Fit uprated bushes only in the
front of the arm, not the rear!
Use std. bushes in the rear of
the arm to reduce vertical
bump harshness and axle noise
transmitted into the car
Small bushes Hard It's ok to use hardened bushes
in the front of the arm
Std Only, to limit axle noise
transmitted into body of car
Shock absorbers Adjust Use SPAX adjustables set
to critical damping with
uprated spring, or overdamped
with standard spring
++++Moderator 0.2
I have fitted the SuperPro poly bushes. They can be compared with the
uprated items, except that in principle these bushes have a
long-life duration. They are also self-lubricating.
The "SuperPro" poly bushes for the front sway bar are moulded with a
logitudal split between the base and one side of the loop so the bush
can be slipped over the bar at the correct position.
I find the noise transmission acceptable and IMHO quieter than with
my earlier setup (std bushes/springs).
Why use poly bushes?
Rubber is susceptible to the elements found in normal, everyday use,
such as oil, fluid spills, salt, dry rot, etc. It's virtually
impossible to avoid some of these damaging elements. The dynamic
torque forces rubber has to deal with during suspension's operation
is often too demanding. Polyurethane is a synthetic material and can
resist dynamic torque-like twisting and turning forces of suspension
components.
Of course everything is based on personal opinion. Some of you may
like the standard setup but according to the threads most wedge
owners do not!!!
++++
Shocks
A bad shock could lead to an accident. So shocks are very important.
Shocks are an important part to the steering and suspension system.
THEY WEAR GRADUALLY! Most drivers won't notice the difference in ride
and handling of the car when driving with worn shocks. They will only
notice when a emercency arises.
A shock is a hydraulic mechanism in a car's suspension system. It
works in conjunction with a coil spring to support the weight of a
car. No doubt it's a vital part of the car handling. Shocks improve
handling by reducing front end dive when braking. They control body
sway and roll on turns. Also wheel hop is prevented if good shocks
are used. Otherwise a wheel hop can lead to loss of control. It also
prevents your car from shaking itself to pieces.
Gas charged shocks last longer than other types, but they still have
fluid inside. Most shocks are filled with nitrogen which prevents
aeration of the fluid. Aeration of fluid will cause foaming and
foaming brings down the shock absorber performance. The operating
principle of hydraulic shocks is in forcing fluids through
restricting openings in the valves. This restricted flow serves to
slow down and control rapid movement in the car springs as they react
to road irregularities. Fluid flow thru pistons is mostly controlled
by spring-loaded valves. Gas shocks are preferable because they also
improve the internal valving of the shock, improving both stability
and ride.
Shock absorber strut
A strut is designed to resist pressure in the direction of its
length. Typical for our wedges is the 'MacPherson' strut. The shock
is built into the strut. Some 'MacPherson' systems are equipped with
low-pressure gas-filled shock struts (original wedge setup). They are
non-adjustable and nonrefillable. A faulty unit must be replaced as
an assembly. Replace shocks always in pairs. After replacing wheel
align is probably needed. As earlier mentioned shocks are an integral
part of the suspension system.
When to replace a shock?
o Clunking noise during normal driving conditions
o steering stiffness or a 'quickspot' while turning the automobile
o poor steering returns
o roll or sway in turns
o vehicle bounces or sways sideways on a winding rough road
o increased braking distance
o abnormal front diving while braking
Springs
No doubt, if your uprating your shocks than you MUST uprate your
springs. And if you uprate your springs use the progressive springs.
The coil pitch of 'normal' springs stays the same all the way up the
spring. With progressive springs the coil pitch gets tighter the
closer you get to the top. The effect of this is that the spring
increases resistance, the more it's compressed. E.g. when cornering
the car the springs are more compressed so is the resistance.
++++Moderator 0.2
Info is compelled from different sources.
With permission I've been using stuff from the website of
Energy Suspension. Their website contains more useful information
about suspension, bushes, etc. They don't fabricate bushes for the
TR7/8 but who knows in the future....
http://www.energysuspension.com
Shocks
http://www.kyb.com
http://www.webgarage.com/ci/susp.htm
(suspension, 4wheel alignment, shocks)
Also with permission I've been using some very good material from
Chris Longhurst. He wrote a couple of technical bibles about tires
and suspension. Take a look at his page, long download but
interesting information.
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/2195/tyre_bible.html
htpp://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/2195/suspension_bible.html
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> - Useful part numbers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Poly bushes
Rear lower arm bush (4 needed) 152308 / 149827 SPF070
Rear upper arm bush (4 needed) 149849 SPF072
Roll bar to chassis (2 needed) UKC210 SPF111
Lower inner front wishbone (2 needed) CRC307 SPF139
Front strut bump stop (2 needed) UKC1101 SPF189
Spring seat upper front (2 needed) UKC5615 SPF252
Subframe, upper bush (4 needed) 155793 SPF324
Roll bar to arm (4 needed) UKC208/TKC6097 SPF518
Subframe, front lower bush (2 needed) 159209 SPF676
Rear lower bush (2 needed) UKC307 SPF894
Steering column bush (1 needed) UKC2322 SPF1063
More information at:
British Auto Care
McCarthy Street, Salisbury,
Brisbane, Australia,
Website: http://www.bac.com.au
E-mail: mailto:staff@bac.com.au
Tel: +61 7 32742828
Fax: +61 7 32775344
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Shocks can be found at the suppliers (addresses at the WWWedge site).
Rimmers has some nice pictures of Koni/Spax and standard system.
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WHEELS (TIRES/RIMS !!)
Francis Dupuis (Can) asked me to write an article about aftermarket
wheels. Good idea, I've been looking since the beginning of my
wedge adventure for shining wheels. I ended with powder-coated
original TR alloys. I also have Wolfrace and maybe I'm using them in
the summer (with big fat tires). They will be powder-coated too!
(probably red or yellow or black!?!).
I send a message to the TR7/8 mailing list asking about after-market
wheels (brand, size, manufacturer, etc). A useful number of messages
came through.
First I start with some basic knowledge about tires.
Most people do not realize the importance of tires and that tires
should be taken care of properly. Proper tire maintenance is easy.
Just some simple routine tasks will save you money. In return you'll
get a better vehicle handling, noise reduction and performance.
1. Keep you tires properly inflated.
For standard setup: 175/70/13 or 185/70/13
front: 24 lb/sq in (1.68 kg/sq cm)
rear : 28 lb/sq in (1.96 kg/sq cm)
Other tire sizes, ask your supplier.
If you do this once a month (yes, I'm doing this to both my cars)
tire pressure is always correct.
2. Wheel alignment.
Check that your wheels are moving in a straight line when you
steer straight. If you notice worn tires this could be an
indication that the wheels are misaligned. Normally alignment
should be checked every 10,000 miles.
3. Balancing.
If your tires aren't correctly balanced you can notice this by
heavy vibrations at the steering wheel. In time this will cause
damage to your steering system as well as the car's suspension
system.
More interesting information can be found (obtained) from the
Webgarage website.
http://www.webgarage.com/ci/tire1.htm (tires)
http://www.webgarage.com (home page)
Also these Dutch guys from GRAKU (big supplier of wheels/tires)
have some technical information regarding wheels. If you want to
know for yourself what 7x15 4-100/57 ET 38 means take a look at
their webpages (English available).
http://www.graku.nl/E-w-techniek.htm (English page)
http://www.graku.nl (home page)
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Next is a compilation of e-mail messages. Available pictures
of aftermarket wheels will soon be published at the WWWedge.
> - Thread - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Paul McDonald ( Paul.MacDonald@PWGSC.GC.CA ) saved an old thread of
the TR7/8 mailing list. Thanks Paul ;-D
Here is the most important information.
TR7/8's used a 13 x 5.5 wheel with an 25mm positive offset. The bolt
pattern is on 3.75", (95.5mm).
Similar patterns:
BMW 3 Series; 4 x 100mm bolt pattern with a 33mm positive offset.
Some 15 x 7 BBS Mesh items available on the used market.
Isuzu Impulse; 4 x 100mm bolt pattern with a 25mm offset.
Pretty 14 x 6 units available from later cars.
These can be redrilled to the correct pattern with a simple jig, but
the BMW wheels will require an 8mm spacer.
What is offset?
Offset is the distance from the mounting surface of the wheel to the
true centerline of the rim. The offset indicates wheres the
centerline of the tire will be located relative to the wheel.
Positive Offset:
The location of the seating face of the wheel (which is up against
the hub) is outboard from the centerline of the wheel. Greater
positive offset moves the inside of the wheel inboard. Front wheel
drive cars have a lot of positive offset to compensate for the
greater complexity of the drive mechanism which sticks out farther in
order to maintain correct suspension geometry.
(Brakes, CV Joints and drive shafts). This makes most FWD car wheels
unsuitable for application to the TR7/8, because you would need
severely long wheel studs and very thick adapters
(2" in some cases such as Honda and Toyota).
A Simple Jig:
You need 1/2" steel disk with the 3 3/4" hole pattern drilled in it
and a hole in the middle for a clamping bolt. The holes should be the
same size as the holes in the wheel you're drilling in order to use
the correct lug nuts. You may decide to use the original Triumph lug
nuts, which are flat, so you may only need to drill out enough to fit
the lugs through. The next step is to provide a round step in the
center of the disk which is the same size as the inside diameter of
the center hole in the wheel. This is used to center the jig.
Next, clamp the jig to the wheel with the new holes lined up with the
old ones.
(some of you may recall the old UNILUG oval hole pattern from the
sixties) The best drill bit to use is an end mill, but it can be done
with a regular bit, just make sure you clamp the hole business down
on your drill press or mill.
POTENTIAL PROBLEM AREA: if you have insert lugs such as on the Isuzu
wheel, you need to also oval those holes, which is best done on a
mill.
Why Isuzu and BMW 3 Series? - both of these wheel have the same size
hub center. The hole in the middle of the wheel centers the wheel on
this. The lugs' only job is to hold the wheel on. Other wheels I've
seen do not have the same size center, but could be adapted with a
small ring spacer if you have access to a lathe. Some other models
are the same pattern, but they are too skinny (example:
Spitfire is 13 x 4.5"). The used market is filled with aftermarket
stuff for BMW 3 Series (0.2 moderator: and available all over the
world).
Oh by the way...VW Rabbit GTI is also a contender...4 x 100mm bolt
pattern with 33mm positive offset.
One person suggested Jensen Healey wheels which look very nice,
but require a special lug nut, (I suppose you could just use a
special washer, but why would you want a twenty year old wheel which
is very hard to get and is still 13 x 5.5"?)
In case anybody is interested, I actually did this (not just
theoretical) on a set of 13 x 7" American Racing Libre Pattern
wheels from a Ford Pinto. The pattern was 4 on 4 1/4", and I had to
do alot of machining to get the center hub adapters the right size,
but it worked, and looked great (IMHO).
Hope this covers it.
Richard Goldstein, Tustin, CA.
+++++
0.2 moderator
Well Richard truly gave some interesting information. Basic point is
that if you convert your hubs to fit BMW 3 Series wheels you can
choose of several hunderds of aftermarket wheels.
+++++
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Others also choose for conversion.
I have been wanting to try some 14 inch rims and got the opportunity
to pick up a set of 1986 Chrysler LeBaron alloy rims...looks like a
18 leg spider.
The hole in the center of the rim is about .012 larger than the TR
hub so it is a nice hubcentric fit. The bolt holes need to be moved
in toward the center of the hub about 1/8 inch.
The rims had 185-70SR-14 tires that are in ok shape so I have left
them on for now.
The inside edge of these rims have about 0 to 1/16 inch clearance to
the nut and threads of the ball joints. Since this was a bit
annoying, I cut about 1/8 inch off the nut and threads of the ball
joint( not enough to be a hazard) and snugged up the wheel bearings.
That did the trick and now have about 1/8 to 3/16 inch clearance and
can turn corners without rubbing. What a Ghastly sound!!!!!
Any way, I am quite pleasantly suprised at the ride.....it is much
smoother than the 13 inch rims (205-60-15) but it does not seem any
slippery going around corners with some gusto. At this point I am
impressed and will have go give these puppies a thorough check out.
Have other folks noticed a significant improvement in smoothness????
Wil Bridges, ( bridgesw@ix.netcom.com )
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MoMo, from a mid 70's big Alfa, very nice wheel, 6 holes surrounded
by raised, machined ribs, conical center with reliefs for lug nuts.
Paid USD $635 (new) but aren't available anymore.
The size 14 x 6, mounting face machined .200" to correct offset.
Bolt pattern is 100mm x 4, remachined tapers to center lugs in holes,
made spacer rings to center wheel on hubs.
Joe Murawski ( jmurawski@email.mc.ti.com )
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I have American Racing wheels, one piece aluminum 15 x 7.5 with
Michelin 205/50 XGT Vs. I bought them for USD $900 from Discount Tire
in AZ. Neither one are still available.
Now before you get ALL your hopes up...I converted my car to the
5 stud Ford pattern! Sorry, I couldn't help myself.
Chad McCubbins, ( chadmcc@cyberatl.net )
> - End of wheel conversion - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
+++++
0.2 moderator
Summary: for the true DIY artist, a conversion is probably the best.
If you do the BMW conversion, hunderds of aftermarket wheels become
available. I don't know anything about driving, safety, etc. Perhaps
I can answer that after I get reactions at this article.
On the other hand there are several aftermarket wheels available for
the TR7/8. And they fit without any modification (sometimes a spacer
is needed).
+++++
> - Thread - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
13" Minitator with 205/60-13" tyres.
From Victoria British, originally purchased for my Spitfire.
Francis Dupuis, ( dupuis@mail.bc.rogers.wave.ca )
> - Follow up - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
I managed to get 'hold' of some MGF VVC 5 spoke alloys (the 6 spoke
are fitted to the 'cooking' version - AFAIK, this is the only way to
distinguish them!).
I have 'fitted' them to my TR7V8 and they can be seen at:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/8137
I have found a supplier of both MGF and Montego Alloy wheels. They
are Brown And Gammons - a well known UK based MG spares company.
They told me that the MGF wheel is offset into the car by about 5 mm
more than the Montego alloy (which fits OK on the TR7). So the MGF
alloy will fit the TR7/8, but a spacer maybe needed
(plus longer studs) - not rocket science).
They have some nice prices (all 4 off prices, all new, all 6Jx15):
MGF 6 spoke silver 225 +VAT
MGF 5 spoke silver 325 incVAT
MGF 6 spoke anthracite 240 incVAT
Montego silver 200 incVAT
Montego white 150 incVAT (all prices GBP)
Mike Jeffreys, ( jeffremj@boat.bt.com )
> - Follow up - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Compomotive five spoke silver alloy available at Rimmer Brothers in
England. Costs were 350 GBP for 4 wheels with hub caps and lug nuts.
They are still available. The size is 15 x 7 and I have fitted
205/55R15 tires. (0.2 moderator; any size 14/15/16/17 6/7 available)
Dan Carrington, ( dc_grafx@microworks.net )
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Mine came with what I'll call "turbine" or "fan" style aluminum
wheels. They are rough finished. They have lots (2-3 dozen) of thin
spokes that all run straight from the hub to the rim, but get wider
and curve as they move from the hub to the rim.
I've only seen them on one other wedge. They have a plastic, chrome
center cap. They're distinctive, but look a little dated compared to
todays style. The brand is Centerline (I believe).
They are 13" and I use 205/60R13s on them. They do not fit to the
hub as the original wheels, but use close tolerance, shouldered lug
nuts to get the proper alignment.
Ben Zwissler, ( zwissler@hsonline.net )
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READING TIP
Using a search engine I came across this website Down Under.
It's a interesting story about a guy who races with his TR7 FHC.
The pages, like any other website, are under construction. However
some nice pictures and stories are ready to read.
http://www.gil.com.au/~amilesco/
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Next articles are offered by Phil Somerville. I want to express my
gratitude because this is what I wanted. Participating WWWedge Ezine
readers. Many thanks to you Phil.
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DO IT YOURSELF STRUTBRACE (TR7 2.0)
These are the details for a strut brace I made for my TR7 2ltr, it
will not clear the air cleaner / injection system on 3.5 litres.
Sorry!!!!
I don't think its entirely necessary except for full on race/rally
cars but it was very cheap to make and weighs very little so why not!
(0.2 moderator: but it's also looking good ;-D) Take of 4 nuts and
the strutbrace is removed. The alum. discs help strengthen the top
of the strut towers. No bonnet mods are required.
STEP 1: Remove the strut mount from the car. Knock out the three
short 5/16" UNF bolts and replace with 5/16" x 7/8" long High
Tensile bolts. Tack weld the heads to the underside of the
strut mount. Make sure you protect the rubber from heat and
sparks.
STEP 2: Make 6mm thick alum disc approx 135mm dia with an extension
on one side. Match drill the three holes to suit your strut
mount. Attach the disc to the mount. Drill a fourth hole thru
the disc and thru the mount. Tack weld a fourth H/T bolt in
this hole. Slot the 4 holes in the disc to allow camber
adjustment. NOTE: by grinding 3mm off the outer edge on one
side of the strut mount I was able to get 2.5 degrees
negative camber.
STEP 3: Lay the disc on the strut tower and drill and slot the new
4th hole. Install the strut mount and the disc and bolt down
with Nyloc nuts. Drill 2 holes in a piece of 40x40x6 alum.
angle to suit the 2 bolts on the strut. Install this bracket
with the Nyloc nuts.
STEP 4: Repeat for the other side.
STEP 5: I used 25mm OD heavy wall alum.tubing for the brace. Measure
the length between the two brackets with the bolts set fully
back in the slots. Cut a piece of tube to suit between the
brackets. Trial fit the brace to determine if and where you
have to bend it to clear air cleaner, etc. Refit the brace
and adjust the brackets in to fit. Tack weld the brace to the
brackets while protecting the engine / towers from heat and
sparks. Remove the assembly and fully weld.
STEP 6: Reinstall and check / adjust wheel alignment.
(pictures of the strutbrace and cars will appear soon at the WWWedge)
Phil Somerville ( phildan@melbpc.org.au )
About my cars:
I currently own a black TR7V8 DHC and a yellow TR7 FHC race/rally
car. I've owned 6 TR7's over the last 7 years although I have still
kept my very first TR7 . I have converted 3 USA TR7's to rhd and
fitted a Rover V8 to my DHC , both were fairly easy conversions as I
have a background in mechanical engineering .
My TR7V8 is in excellant cond. and has won several class concourses
over the years. It has the usual mods. like TR8 discs, 4pot calipers,
Holley 390 carb, Buick inlet manifold, cam, s/s exhaust etc.
My TR7 is not road registered and also came from the USA .
It has a brake improvement (0.2 moderator: you can read about that
in the next paragraph), alum. strut brace, Konis, lowered 200lb
springs, urethane bushes etc.
My big challenge was lightening the car but keeping it looking as
original as possible . As I'm only using the old 2ltr engine from my
DHC , until finances allow an update, weight is a big issue .
Currently the car weighs 920 kgs. and still uses the USA rubber
bumpers. On the track I can keep up with the std. TR7V8's but am
about 5 secs. behind the modified ones.
If anyone needs information on rhd conversions or V8 conversions or
brake updates feel free to email me.
If anyone has advice on making the 2ltr perform better without
throwing a bucket load of money at it, please help.
Phil Somerville ( phildan@melbpc.org.au )
Technical Tip: The Brake Improvement
After reading "ONLINE MANUAL BRAKES" at the WWWedge website I thought
I might add my experiences. I have fitted a TILTON adjustable brake
proportioning valve to my TR7 and found it an excellant value. I've
also fitted a Rover SD1 master cyl. to std. TR7 booster. Use a 3mm
(1/8") thick gasket between master cyl. and booster to compensate for
longer pushrod. I've used SD1 rear wheel cyl. with competition
linings so the backs really work now. In the front I've used 12.5mm
(1/2') solid discs with Marina calipers, comp. pads and ducting from
the front spoiler to keep it all cool. I'm currently working on
fitting SUZUKI GTI ventilated front discs as they are the correct
dia. , thickness and offset.
I'll let you know how I go. Email me if you need more information.
VERY IMPORTANT TIP: Always check that the kids havn't been playing in
the car and moved the TILTON valve handle before driving!
Phil Somerville ( phildan@melbpc.org.au )
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COMMERCIAL BREAK
Finally found out who owns that beautiful DHC Grinnall (look at the
WWWedge Gallery). Turns out to be the manager of Moss Birmingham.
Moss Europe Ltd. is one of the greatest suppliers of MG / Triumph
parts.
Moss Birmingham have recently introduced the following accessories
for tr7/8's:
Electric window kits £180.00 PLUS V.A.T. part no. WPA7000
Central Locking kits £75.00 PLUS V.A.T part no. WPA7002
Electric boot opening kit £40.00 PLUS V.A.T part no. WPA7004
Keyless entry kit £90.00 PLUS V.A.T part no. WPA7003
All these kits have been designed specifically for the TR7/8 and
are not adapted from other types. All can be ordered direct or by
e-mail ( nickharrison@compuserve.com )
MOSS BIRMINGHAM
991 WOLVERHAMPTON ROAD
OLDBURY
BIRMINGHAM
WEST MIDLANDS
B69 4RJ, U.K.
Telephone: (0)121-544-4444 or fax: (0)121-544-4340
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Ok, that's all folks for now.
I'm considering a special for the next edition. I've contributions
already from readers regarding their special prepared wedges. Nice
pictures too! However don't hold me to it, subjects changes everyday.
Let me know your opinion about this edition of the Ezine.
Till next time :-D
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WWWedge Ezine is a free email newsletter for anyone who is interested
in the classic car Triumph TR7 and TR8.
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(c) 1998, The World Wide Wedge (http://www.team.net/TR8/)
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