WWWedge Ezine
It's here to help you
Current readers: 161 March 14 1998, Year 1, no. 4
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The purpose of this newsletter is to give (technical) information
about the British classic car Triumph TR7 and TR8.
To make this newsletter a success I need your HELP:
o Let me know if this newsletter contains the information you're
looking for.
o Let me know if you want to write a feature article.
o Let me know if you have suggestions, improvements, etc.
o Let me know if you find this newsletter useful and practical, and
if there is anything you would like to see covered.
You can subscribe/unsubscribe to this newsletter at
http://www.team.net/TR8/mp
For comments, articles, etc. send a e-mail to
workshop@voskotan.demon.nl
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THE WEDGE TEAM
The WWWedge website is entirely maintained by volunteers.
Johan Vorsterman van Oijen is responsible for the design and the
daily updates. Mark Elbers is fully occupied with the Registry pages.
Eric Teunissen is responsible for the TR Scale Models pages.
The WWWedge Ezine newsletter is moderated by yours truly (Johan
Vorsterman van Oijen), and my native language isn't English.
But I'll try to do my utmost best to create readable articles.
To get started the WWWedge Ezine newsletter is heavenly based on
the Wedge Tips collected by Philip Johnstone from Australia.
Another source is the TR7/8 mailing list. I will extracts threads
from this list and publish them in this newsletter.
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INTRODUCTION
Dear reader,
The Ezine is still growing. After edition 3 I thought I had reach the
top with 126 readers but subscriptions are still coming in. Great!!!
Donald McLeish offered to help me occasionally by collecting and
moderating threads from the TR7/8 mailing list. Of course I'm very
grateful...don't know how to pay for help except with my gratitude.
This month we have some specials for you! Wedge owners doing
something special to or with their cars. Some good tech tips from
readers, etc.
Together with this edition I present the new Man Pages. The Ezine
will be an important part of this section. Published articles will
be accompanied with a webpage (if pictures are available). So read
on and if required surf to the accompanied webpage(s). Have fun.
The url of the new Man Pages is:
http://www.team.net/TR8/mp
Of course everything is hosted at the WWWedge website.
Johan Vorsterman van Oijen.
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TOPICS
o About my "racing" TR7
o 77 SCCA ITB prepared race car
o TR7V8 (from Oz)
o Anything orginal left?
o TR8 GT-1 Racecar
o Collective Rag Top Wisdom
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ABOUT MY "RACING" TR7.
"MY OTHER CAR IS A TR3a!"
My TR7 has always been my interim car. I purchased it back 10 years
ago while I had my TR3a all apart restoring it. That took 5 years.
In the mean time, I grew really attached to the TR7. Sure it has no
power, is universally unloved, and, well, it's not a real TR!
But, I just like the looks of it, the way it handles, and it is
really very very dependable, once you deal with some of the inbred
problems ( Leaking Head Gasket - replace gasket, and retorque the
head bolts every 3,000 miles or so, and Carburation - switched to
down draft Webbers) Other than that , this car served as a great
touring car. (Went from Maine to North Carolina to a VTR convention -
came in 3rd at Peoples Choice, and 2nd in the Autocross - and the
little TR7 never skipped a beat).
It really wasn't much of an Autocross car. With the Webbers, I get
put in DSP class, along with some pretty fast company.
Its' 2nd place showing against just other TR7s was really the
highlight of its' Autocross career. But it was really still
practically bone stock, except for the carbs.
"MY OTHER CAR IS A TVR!"
So then I decided to build a vintage racer... and some friend of my
talked me into a TVR. They have a lot going for them, I admit -
tube frame, light weight FG bodies, yet MG and TR running gear for
the most part. But I bought such a basket case of a TVR, that it
would be a long time before I got any seat time on a race track.
TR7 to the rescue once again!!
The first year all I did was put in a tall roll-bar and stiffen up
the springs.. And off I went to Time Trialing with the
COM Sports Car Club (COM stands for Corvettes of Massachusetts,
although there are very few Corvettes) Being my first year of racing,
I was reasonably satisfied to come in last at just about every event.
I'm 53 years old, so I tend to be more cautious than I was back in my
20s & 30s. Besides, I've always been the type to start off real slow,
but finish pretty good whenever I take something on.
I could see that this racing business was really going to put that
old theory of mine to the test... going faster and faster and faster
around a race is a complicated thing, yet it's simple at the same
time.
The next winter I rebuilt the motor, using British spec. pistons.
I had a shop that specializes in stock race engines do the work, so
everything was up correctly. At the same time I up rated shocks
(a waste of money), got a bunch of goodies from Rimmers (up rated
brakes- servo, header) , got a big front Sway Bar, new brake
reproportioned proportioning valve, and new rear brake shoes from
TS Imports, and from JEGS ,or somebody , an MSD multiple discharge
ignition system, and a Super Trap muffler system (a really cool
thing since some tracks don't like you to make any noise and others
don't care - the Super Trap adapts to any situation) And after a
Fiat X19 passed me and then proceeded to rolled over right in front
of me one day at St. Jovitte , I had a full roll-cage welded in.
The results, believe it or not, weren't all that dramatic!
Then one day I'm in the pits, and the guy next to me started talking
(He was racing a Chevette, for Gods sake, and I couldn't even stay
with him!) He showed me why I'm not going to give up my day job as a
banker to become a race car mechanic..
First of all he pointed out that I was only opening my throttles
to three quarters!! Easy adjustment of the throttle linkage. Then he
advanced my spark to 30 BTDC. Wow, what a difference that made in the
car.
My next big improvement came when I took out the 3.45 rear end and
put in a 3.90. Now I'm not the last guy anymore. I'm not setting the
world on fire, but I'm keeping up with the likes of Mazda Miata's and
regular nonGTI Rabbits. I'm still in the wrong class because of those
Webber carburetors.
I just purchased a 1981 TR7 Fuel Injected parts car, and have plans
to switch over to that some day...then I can move down to a class
where my car will be on more even footing.
By then the TVR will be ready, and I'll switch the TR7 back to
something else...
"MY OTHER TRUCK IS A LAND ROVER!"
Gee, I saw an old Land Rover the other day... wouldn't it be fun to
go into the back-country four wheel'n with the Land Rover Club in an
old restored Land Rover... and while I'm fixing it up I could always
use...NAAH!!!
Randy Clark ( grantura@agate.net )
1959 TR3a
1980 dhc TR7 (My Time Trial Car)
1962 TVR Vintage Racer
1946 Hillegass Midget (TR4 power)
1994 Corrado VR6(fast, but not as fun as a TR!)
Webpage: http://www.team.net/TR8/mp/html/randy_clark.html
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TIP
Here's something I found out the hard way-it's about my TR7 FI car.
The hose from the air box unit to the engine developed a leak so the
motor wouldn't run right - so I popped big money to one of the big
three for a new u hose. When I got it I noticed it wasn't original
just a piece of hose and clamps.
Now here's the deal! I have a single engine aircraft and do all
my own work on it also and the air intake hose on my airplane is
the same thing they sent me.
Any aircraft place sells it by the foot and not real expensive and
comes in all sizes. It is a high temp sissycone fabric with stainless
wire imbedded to hold the shape comes red or black.
This is probably for any car that uses air hoses. Most of the air
hoses for the FI TR7 aren't available or are very expensive.
A light aircraft usually have remote mounted airboxes and have hoses
running to the motor. Watch out for the diameter. If it isn't exact
use duct tape. These hoses are fireproof hi temp with a imbedded
stainless wire to hold its shape. I replaced the air hose from the
air sensor box to the engine with a 2 or 3 foot section and
eliminated my air leak-plus it looks good. It was the u shaped one
that's a bugger to get at.
If you want more info let me know it is a much cheaper replacement
and probably better as ac stuff must be FAA oked.
Jon Paschke ( birdman@lightspeed.net )
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77 SCCA ITB PREPARED RACE CAR
My car is prepared for the Improved Touring B class of the
Sports Car Club of America (SCCA). That class requires safety
equipment (roll cage, harness, etc) and allows some removal of
interior pieces (headliner, carpet, trim behind the front
passengers), a stock rebuild of the engine (balance, blueprint),
and the brakes have to be stock with any pads and ducting is allowed.
The suspension can be modified into most of anything. Any shocks,
struts, springs, rollbars, and panhard or watts links. My car
currently has some aftermarket springs, koni struts and carrara
shocks. The entire suspension is not optimized at all.
I am just racing it the way I got it and slowly working through the
car in my free time. I have added brake cooling ducts that are hard
to see in the picture. The track I race at luckly is not a heavy
braking track.
The mirrors are just Murrays (local discount auto parts store)
specials. The mounting locations may look strange but they are in
great view for driving.
I can run any street approved tire that will fit in the car on 14x6
inch rims. The rear tire looks big in the picture because of how
flexed it is under cornering. They are just 205/60/R14.
I want to try to run 215/50/R14 next year.
Any other questions, contact me.
Mike DeRonne ( mderon01@powertrain.mpg.gm.com )
Webpage: http://www.team.net/TR8/mp/html/mike_deronne.html
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TR7V8 (from Oz)
My car was originally an American TR7 and was imported into Australia
by PowerTune. From there it was purchased and $14,000 was spent
cosmetically on the exterior and interior though the engine was not
worked on.
The car was subsequently sold to another gentleman who fitted the
Rover 3.5l efi engine and added a Haltech engine management system
which allows adjustement on the road via a laptop of all the ususal,
fuel etc. Over $20,000 was spent on the car on this gentleman though
it was never registered nor driven on the roads.
This was why I bought the vehicle, all this money invested and I
would be the first registered owner.
I have added since owning the car over the last 3 years, a top of
the range imported microwave alarm, a sensational stereo system
(any owner wanting sensational sound out of a convertible, read the
information at the end of this article), black velour seats from a
Mitsubishi Starion Turbo which have over 7 adjustements
( the original tan LEATHER seats now live in the garage).
The petrol greets the motor via a swirl pot with an external pump
and a high lift pump and fumes exit via a mandrel bent twin system
exhaust.
All major work has been done by Ian Wilson of Triumph Rover Spares
(very, very helpful and knowledgable man).
The car is airconditioned, automatic, and has been running mobil
1 syntheyiv oil from the running in period. A set of mag wheels
(custom made) went on the beginning of 1998 ( owners interested in
these can contact me and ill see if i can help), with a set of
205/50/15 dunlop w1 spec r high performance tyres. Wow, the thing
handles now.
Ive owned a TR7 FHC and a TR7 DHC before and now have this one,
so you could say i like the shape.
Its amazing that i can pull up next to a modern car ( eg porsche,
bmw etc) and still have a look of envy from the owner, for I drive
a rare car vs a mass produced piece of plastic ( I can say this as
I took the BMW Z3 for a drive and did'nt see where all the extra
money went).
About the stereo:
I have a Kenwood detachable face head unit (tape and radio only,
cd seems a waste in a convertible due to the dust and shocking
mounting angle, also I didn't want to buy a stacker for lack of
space and someone steling the thing).
Blaupunkt splits in the doors. Woofer 7" in the door with self made
spacer from MDF and tweeters mounted on the front window sill as per
photo. Small 25wx2 kenwood amp hidden to drive the fronts with the
deck powering a set of super tweeters that used to reside in the
headrest of the original seats and are at the moment trying to find
a new home somewhere in the rear(?) of the car to set the sound stage
properly.
All in all, a cheap system but with magnificent sound for a DHC.
Of course the alarm is top of the range to make sure it all stays
with me and the face panel lives with me when the car is parked,
again where I can see it.
THE CAR MAY BE GOING UP FOR SALE, IM NOT SURE AT THE MOMENT.
THE PRICE WILL BE $30,000 AUSTRALIAN
Happy motoring!
Nicholas ( beyond@academy.net.au )
My cars can be seen at
Webpage: http://www.team.net/TR8/TR7V8/
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COMMERCIAL BREAK
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The ultimate performance upgrade!
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This easy conversion will upgrade your WEAK 3.5 litre to a 4.3 or 5.0
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We have built and Dyno tested Stroker Enterprises Kits to 380 bhp
with 400 ft torque!
For enquires ring SA's authorised Stroker Enterprises Agent:
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7 MAGNA COURT
LONSDALE SA 5160, Australia
Ian Wilson
Ph: 08 8384 6933
Mob: 0414 815 955
Fax: 08 8384 2133
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ANYTHING ORIGINAL LEFT?
About the mods to my coupe (FHC). They are definitely not in the
mainstream. The only items left stock are the body, glass & selected
dash pieces.
Pictures can be seen at the Man Pages of the WWWedge website.
Under the bonnet (proper British term) is a standard bored stroke
Chevrolet 5.7 litre V8 10.5:1 comp ratio. A beast in such a light
car.
Up front it has 78 nissan 280z struts and brakes a concession to the
extra weight. A borg warner t-5 5 speed & a narrowed 8.75 inch
Chrysler with posi 3.55 ratio gets the power down.
We sectioned the rear sub frame stampings to gain tyre clearance for
the 265 50 14 radial T\A's on 10 in. wide wheels.
How fast is it? I don't know. I'm still sorting it out.
I hope you don't think badly of me I did not start this project,
however I will say that I totally agree with the concept! Hey you did
ask me to tell you. right???
Here's a list of modification on my car:
- 80 corvette 350 with ported heads,sealed power forged pistons,
cam is 292 degree advertised with .480 lift.
- 750 dbl pumper holley on edelbrock torker II single plane intake
shorty street rod hedders into 2.5" chambered pipes no other
mufflering.
- Dual point dist as my electronic set up has dumped & I haven't
replaced it yet.
- Motor & trans are mounted drag style with mtr plates front & rear
trans is a borg warner 5 spd w .73 overdrive.
- Rear axle is chrysler posi narrowed to 44" width 3.50 gears & moser
forged axles.
- Front struts are total rebuilds of 78 datsun 280z these were
adapted by reaming the tie rod & ball joint holes oversize on the
Z car steering arms & modifying the stock upper mounts (TR7).
The horses are around 350hp. It has never seen dyno time however,
I believe this to be a nice conservative figure. It just rocks.
Till next time.... Dave ( richpeople@yahoo.com )
Webpage: http://www.team.net/TR8/mp/html/dave_chris_rich.html
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TARGA TASMANIA 1998
Hi all,
Just thought I'd write to say that there's a TR7 entered in the '98
Targa Tasmania. Category 7 - Post Classic (1977-1981)
701 Mark Biggs, WARRAGUL, VIC / Robin Lowe, SALE, VIC
1978 Triumph TR7
The Targa Tamania begins in April and goes on for 5 days. Any one
who wants to help out with this project I'll try to get a contact
number.
Cheers, Andrew McKenzie ( andmaca@tig.com.au )
Sydney, Australia
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TR8 GT-1 RACECAR
I own ACN 01086UCA, apparently a 1978 Canadian- market pre-production
coupe that was later converted into GT-1 racecar (roadster) specs.
I believe it to be the 1980 Canadian national GT-1 champion, the '81
NORRDIC C-Prod. champ, & 3rd in the '84 NE Div. GT-1 championship.
I drove it to 3rd place in the 1995 Midwestern Council GT-1 standings.
Specs might be of interest:
- 2200 pounds with fuel Huffaker 215 ci motor
- 750 cfm Holley double-pumper
- MSD ignition, Carter fuel pump
- Tilton flywheel (Group 44)
- Borg & Beck clutch (Group 44)
- Carillo rods
- Buffum crankshaft
- Isky cam
- JRT 5-speed close-ratio competition gearbox
- Huffaker floater rear (3.89 ratio)
- 3-point stock car link with Panhard rod
- Carrera strut inserts with TR8 tubes (like Slagle's)
- Tilton 10-1/2" rotors, AP 4-pot calipers (front)
- JFZ calipers, Tilton rotors (rear)
- Huffaker IMSA-type fender flares
- Imron paint
- Tilton pedal assembly with bias bar
- Tilton proportioning valve
- Phoenix fire suppression system
- 22-gal. ATL fuel cell
- Compomotive 3-piece 15 x 10 aluminum wheels
I understand the build cost to have been $38,750!! I think the first
driver was Dave Heinz. There are logbooks back to '81.
Subsequent drivers: Robt. Borders; Ron Phillips; & me, Pete Wilson.
The car currently is garaged in Fontana, WI, awaiting an engine
rebuild. I last ran it in March, 1996 at an HSR event at Sebring.
I also have owned an '80 TR8 convertible since 1986 (sunny-day driver).
TR8psing thru life,
Pete Wilson
blastpst@genevaonline.com
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TIP
Found something out that I don't think had been discussed earlier...
I just got back from the Daytona 24 hr. (great race btw). While I was
in the garage area talking to one of the mechanics, he gave me a
catalog from the "Racer Wholesaler" in Roswell GA.
He said that they used a lot of their equipment. The catalog has
helmets, driving suits, harnesses, seats, special tools, aeroquip,
etc. (Even hi-temp aerocraft quality neoprene and silicone air
ducting for you FI owners out there - see tip earlier in the issue)
Anyway, when I got home I was browsing through the catalog and came
upon the racing brake section. Looking at the "Hawk" brand, low and
behold, right in there with the Ferraris and Porsches, was a listing
for TR7 (no 8's) available in three compounds from high performance
street all the way through all out racing pads. These pads are
carbon-metallic and are listed as extremely rotor friendly.
The price of the Hawk pads is $47 for the Hi-Perf Street models,
$49 and $54 for the racing versions. The same pads are listed for
Toyota Cressida, Corona, and Nissan 240, 260, and 280Z.
I don't think that that had been discussed on the TR7/8 list before.
Another brake supplier - "PowerPad" did not list TR7, but did have a
listing for the Nissans. These pads are carbon-kevlar with a ceramic
insulator to reduce heat transfer to the caliper/brake fluid.
They are also listed easy on rotors. They did not show a "street"
pad, but did show 2 racing compounds for $60 and $66. (the higher of
which, by description would NOT be good for the street)
I called Racer Wholesaler to confirm about the brakes. They verified
that according to the manufacturers catalogue, the part number they
show for the TR7 is correct in their catalogue. This part number is
the same listed for Datsun(Nissan) 240/60/80Z and Toyota Cressida,
Corona, and pickup.
They carry two different brands of pads (Hawk and PowerPad) both of
which are used in racing, in several grades from Hi-performance
street to all out endurance racing.
They also mail out free catalogues.
Company info:
Racer Wholesaler
1020 Sun Valley Drive
Roswell, Georgia 30076
Order Line 800-886-RACE
Customer Service 800-397-7811
FAX 770-993-4417
I have no financial interests with this company... yadda..yadda..!
Randy Ponik ( randyp@groupz.net )
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COLLECTIVE RAG TOP WISDOM
This is a compilation of advice about which rag top to purchase sent
from December until recently. I like to comparison shop, and would
like to see more "topical collective wisdom" compilations like this.
Btw - If you feel a need to slam me for doing this service, send your
slams to me and not the list. If you feel I am cluttering up the list
with this then don't clutter it up with slams.
Don McLeish ( donald.mcleish@Corbel.com )
The QUESTION was: Who has the best deal going for a replacement top?
Fred wrote:
"I think the best value in a convertible top is from Prestige, in the
UK. They sell a top that looks almost exactly like the oem top and
fits well, too. They have a US 800 number for ordering and they
advertise in Hemmings. They charge $150 + $25 for shipping.
Don't get the Robbins top from TRF or Vicky Brit. The vinly is too
heavy and they don't fit well. When the top is down, it is so bulky,
you cam barely fit the boot over it. Also, unless you're pretty sure
of your abilities, pay someone to install it for you. It's a pretty
exacting job and if you don't get it just right, the top will sag or
will be too tight to put up in cold weather."
Jeffery wrote:
"The Rimmers OEM hood is best because it is the only one manufactured
using the original tooling. I had my OEM hood fitted professionally,
and was told that it was the best fitting kit he had ever seen."
Joe Gorin wrote:
"I have a Robbins top that looks very original, with the three rear
windows. I found that it didn't fit perfectly; Robbins said my
installer didn't do a good enough job but sent me a replacement, too.
I found the fit problems to be not worth the reinstallation effort,
so I still have a new in-box black Robbins top. Since I will likely
never need it (sigh...) it is for sale.
TRF wants $299.95 for it, plus shipping. I will sell mine for $220,
shipping included."
francis dupuis wrote:
"I've forgotten now who asked me about the top I just had installed,
but for your information it is a Robbins top. The fit is excellent,
and the quality of the zipper, windows, and stitching is better than
any of the other local cars I have seen."
Jason Clark wrote:
"If you're not concerned about an extremely high degree of quality,
Crown will sell tops directly to you (via a local-to-crown
distributor). I purchased a new top from them for $140 last summer
(VB sells the identical top for $199). Fit was acceptable, but the
pilot holes for the snaps and little flaps in the front were rather
off. Still, for $140 and a couple hours of my time, I'm quite happy
with the top I now have.
Crown has an 800 number listed in most metro phone books. I believe
they're located in Arizona."
Herb Newmann wrote:
"If your are after price alone try Crown Tops, they only deal with
people in the trade, I bought one 2 years ago from a dealer on the
east coast. Crown is located in the Midwest (Ohio?) and dropped
shipped it to me in CA. The price was less than $200."
Barry Wolpoff wrote:
"Jason, I put the Crown top on my TR-8 last summer. Great top as you
say but I can't get the boot cover to snap over it. Anyone else with
this problem?? Any solutions??"
Gary Valone wrote:
"The problem with the snaps for the hood cover sound like problem I
had with an Amco top. I had to replace the snaps on the car(the ones
that came with the top) with new ones from old Leyland stock. It
seems the two different halves of snaps don't mate well together."
Gregory W. Smith:
"Prestige (in England) had a stock-type top for $148 US, plus $25
shipping. No pilot holes, make your own."
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TIP
Carbed TR8 Air Filter Discovery
While messing around with my car this weekend, I discovered that my
'80 carbed TR8 was in dire need of air filters. Having checked before,
I knew there was no listing for a Fram, Purolator, etc. in the
application guides found in auto parts stores so I took the stock
filter with me.
After about 1/2 hour of digging through the air filter aisle, I found
a Purolator filter ( part # A23465 ) for an early '80s fuel injected
VW Rabbit (= VW Golf in Europe) that was very close in size and depth
to the stock filter. Because it was only $5.00, I decided that I
would buy one and see if I could modify it and make it fit.
The VW filter is just a little wider than the stock element, so I
used a razor blade to shave about 1/4" of the rubber seal from each
side. This made the width almost perfect. However, the VW element is
too long for the TR8 airbox and trimming the rubber seal from both
ends will not work. I took a pair of snips and cut 3/4" - 1" ( about
4-5 folds of the paper element ) off one end of the filter.
This made a perfect fit and the whole process took about 10 minutes!
Well, this easy modification got me thinking. What I really wanted
was K&N filters for my car so I took the airbox to the local Pep Boys
and checked their stock of K&N filters. I found the K&N filter for
the VW and after about 5 minutes of playing with it and the airbox,
I realized it was too big too modify neatly.
Slightly discouraged, I rummaged through the entire K&N selection and
was surprised to find one for a '86-'96 BMW 3 series (part # 33-2059)
that was almost a perfect fit.
Encouraged by my find, I bought two filters ( about $39.00 each ) and
some 2.5" fresh air ducting ( $10 ) to replace the ones missing on my
car. To get the K&N filters to fit, I only had to trim 3/16" of the
rubber seal from each long side and round the corners
( see crude drawing below ).
CRUDE DIAGRAM:
____________________
/ \
| |
| |
| |
\____________________/
The length of the BMW filter is perfect.
Next, I cut lenghts of the ducting and secured it to the outlets at
the front of the engine compartment and the airboxes with nylon cable
ties ( note that the diameter of the a **** Trim the horizontal
( longer ) side of the K&N filter and cut off the corners to make
it fit in a stock TR8 air box **** )
My thoughts following this easy upgrade, I would really recommend
removing the air box when doing this modification. This allows you to
check the fit of the filter as you trim it. Also, PLEASE double check
my measurements before trimming your new filter ( I am writing this
from memory and my dimensions may be a little off ).
Good luck !!
Mark Tinker ( mark@ntcs-inc.com )
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Again, another edition of the WWWedge Ezine has ended.
I have received several requests for feature articles. I'm looking
for help concerning the following topics:
- Various possibilities for uprating the braking system. There are
more options than pointed at the WWWedge website.
Currently I'm following with great interest the Volvo brake
enhancement.
- Peoples experiences in uprating the standard 8V engine, in
particular the fitment of a hotter cam etc.
- Peoples experiences with the 16V (Sprint) option.
Any other topic which can be of any interest.
For the contents of the next edition I could tell you something, but
I won't do it! Be curious....
Just wait and see. Till next time...
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WWWedge Ezine is a free email newsletter for anyone who is interested
in the classic car Triumph TR7 and TR8.
Please state: the list of subscribers will not be shared with anyone.
The information is used to distribute the newsletter. This newsletter
is no SPAM. It's send to you based on your subscription.
Advice, articles and opinions are offered 'as it is'. The publisher
cannot accept responsibility for any errors or omissions.
The newsletter may be freely copied and/or distributed in its
entirety.
(c) 1998, The World Wide Wedge (http://www.team.net/TR8/)
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