WWWedge Ezine
It's here to help you
Current readers: 180 April 13 1998, Year 1, no. 5
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The purpose of this newsletter is to give (technical) information
about the British classic car Triumph TR7 and TR8.
To make this newsletter a success I need your HELP:
o Let me know if this newsletter contains the information you're
looking for.
o Let me know if you want to write a feature article.
o Let me know if you have suggestions, improvements, etc.
o Let me know if you find this newsletter useful and practical, and
if there is anything you would like to see covered.
You can subscribe/unsubscribe to this newsletter at
http://www.team.net/TR8/mp
For comments, articles, etc. send a e-mail to
workshop@voskotan.demon.nl
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THE WEDGE TEAM
The WWWedge website is entirely maintained by volunteers.
Johan Vorsterman van Oijen is responsible for the design and the
daily updates. Mark Elbers is fully occupied with the Registry pages.
Eric Teunissen is responsible for the TR Scale Models pages.
The WWWedge Ezine newsletter is moderated by yours truly (Johan
Vorsterman van Oijen), and my native language isn't English.
But I'll try to do my utmost best to create readable articles.
To get started the WWWedge Ezine newsletter is heavenly based on
the Wedge Tips collected by Philip Johnstone from Australia.
Another source is the TR7/8 mailing list. I will extracts threads
from this list and publish them in this newsletter.
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INTRODUCTION
Hi All,
It's been a busy month. I'm very busy at the office where I have to
pull-off a conversion from our Novell network into a Windows NT
network. It's hard working but I enjoy it very much. I had little
time for keeping the webpages actual and compiling this Ezine.
However I had to hold myself back and kept this issue under 30Kb.
The last few week I could, at last, drive with open top. Wow, it
surprises me everytime how well my wedge is driving. I drive my wedge
once every fortnight (to the office) and the I can't sleep the night
before I have to drive. Do you recognise the feeling ;-D
It's amazing how many classic cars come out their hiding places as
soon as the weather permits. Amazing how many classic car drivers
salut each other. Do you recognise ;-D
Well, enjoy this edition of the Ezine.
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TOPICS
o VIN/Check digit decoding
o Cool it
o Incoming mail
o The poster
o TR vs MGB
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VIN/Check digit decoding
A topic which has raised its head on a number of occassions recently
is that of the commission numbers on the late USA and Canadian TR8s.
We all know that from early 1981 to Solihull cars were prefixed with
the letters 'SAT' to designate the 'World Manufacturer's Code'.
However, it would seem that there were two types of 'SAT' numbers,
those for the UK (and possibly European) market and the USA/Canadian
markets which were somewhat different and also contained a 'check
digit'.
To illustrate this I have listed below nine typical cars both TR7 and
TR8 built between November 1979 and September 1981, bearing in mind
that the TR7 and TR8 commission numbers were mixed in together. As
can be seen, the UK VINs follow the old pattern with the prefix SAT,
whilst the USA/Canadian VINs are considerably changed by the
inclusion of the 'check digit'.
Model Dest. Factory Year Spec Commission number
TR8 USA Canley Nov 79 Conv (DHC) TPZDV4AT 201675
TR7 UK Canley Mar 80 Conv (DHC) TPADJ7AT 208890
TR8 USA Canley Aug 80 Conv (DHC) TPVDV8AT 215044
TR8 CAN Solihull Feb 81 Conv (DHC) SATPL4581 B A 403776
TR8 CAN Solihull Mar 81 Conv (DHC) SATPL4583 B A 404914
TR7 UK Solihull Jul 81 Conv (DHC) SATTPADJ7 A A 407023
TR7 UK Solihull Sep 81 Conv (DHC) SATTJ7AA 408119
TR8 USA Solihull Sep 81 Conv (DHC) SATPV4581 B A 408485
TR7 UK Solihull Sep 81 Conv (DHC) SATTPADJ7A A 408534
To explain these more fully I have reproduced an extract from one
of Paul Towles' reports form the mid-80s:
'These new VIN numbers were introduced to comply with the new
American and Canadian chassis numbering regulations. They were in
many respects similar to the UK/European system except that they now
included a 'check digit' and had 17 digits in total. Examples of
these VIN numbers are as follows:
SATPV458XBA 407609
SATPZ4588BA 406236
SATPL4586CA 407663
The check digit is the 9th digit of the series and could be used to
check the validity of the entire chassis number. The other numbers
that differed from the UK/European system the 6th, 7th & 8th digits.
The check digit was calculated as follows:
Chassis Weight
Digit Representation Numeric Factor
1 Continent S Europe 2 8
2 Country A UK 1 7
3 Manufacturer T Triumph 3 6
4 Model range P TR7/8 7 5
5 Specification V USA, Federal 5 4
(49 States)
Z USA, California 9 4
L Canada 3 4
6 Type of body 5 Coupe 5 3
4 Convertible 4 3
7 Engine type 1 2 litre, 4cyl, 8v 1 2
5 3.5 litre V8 5 2
8 Steering & 4 LHD Automatic 4 10
Transmission 8 LHD Manual 5spd 8 10
9 Check digit [see below] 0 to 9
or X
10 Major model A 1980 model year 1 9
change B 1981 model year 2 9
C 1982 model year ?? 3 9
11 Assembly plant A Solihull 1 8
12 Serial number
1st digit * * 7
2nd digit * * 6
3rd digit * * 5
4th digit * * 4
5th digit * * 3
6th digit * * 2
Taking a typical US spec. TR8 with a commission number of
SATPV458- BA407609 (note a space has been left for the check
digit), each of these digits must be converted into its
equivalent numeric and multiplied by its weight factor.
Chassis Weight
Digit Numeric Factor
S 2 8 = 16
A 1 7 = 7
T 3 6 = 18
P 7 5 = 35
V 5 4 = 20
4 4 3 = 12
5 5 2 = 10
8 8 10 = 80
Check digit
B 2 9 = 18
A 1 8 = 8
4 4 7 = 28
0 0 6 = 0
7 7 5 = 35
6 6 4 = 24
0 0 3 = 0
9 9 2 = 18
These products must then be added together = 329
This value is then divided by modules 11. In this case
329/11 = 29 remainder 10
This remainder is then inserted in the commission number in the 9th
position. In most cases, check digits are in the range 0 to 9 and
as they are single digits there is no problem inserting them into
the 9th position. However, when there's a remainder of 10 (as in
our example), it's replaced by the single digit 'X'. So the
completed commission number in this example would be:
SATPV458XBA407609
So if you discover a late USA/Canadian spec TR8 you will know how
to verify if it is the real thing!!!!"
For those of you who wish to know the production date of your TR7
or TR7V8s, my first list gives an indication of build date to VIN
number. However for accurate information a certificate should be
obtained form the Heritage Museum at Gaydon. At present the lastest
UK TR7/8 I know of is VIN No. SATTPADJ7AA408119. This predates the
last TR7 to be built (on show at Gaydon with VIN No.
SATTPADJ7AA408534) by 415. Can anyone improve on this?
Rex Holford
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COOL IT
Well spring/summer is coming! Overheated engines? Yes our wedges are
very vulnerable if you don't pay attention to the cooling system.
It's an old thread but nevertheless very important.
Prevention is the key word here! Most of us don't bother about parts
which are working correctly till something goes wrong. So go into
your garage (or whatever) and starts checking the cooling system.
1. Check your fan belt
The fan belt is driving the water pump. Any signs of wear down you
should replace the belt. These things aren't expensive! Be careful
though! Always check out the cause of the wear down. Most common
cause is improper tension. In practice; press with your thumb the
fan belt on its longest run. No more than a INCH (2.54cm) play (or
less than a quarter inch).
Another (popular?) cause of wear down is the improper alignment of
the dynamo and the alternator. Check this, if incorrect use
washers or spacers to correct the alignment.
Do I need to tell you that a faulty fan belt will also cause
charging problems?
2. Check the radiator pressure cap
What? Yes the pressure cap is very important. Check the poundage
(TR7 = 15lb f/in2 (1.05kg f/cm2). Make sure that the cap locks
down firmly. Check the flange inside of the radiator neck gives a
good seating for the sealing washer on the cap. If you think the
cap is unreliable REPLACE it. These caps are not expensive and
could prevent you from a lot of damage.
3. Check the hoses
Well most of us are checking the coolant hoses visually. No signs
of cracking, wear, etc. According to research by the GATES Rubber
Company hoses are most likely fail from the inside. And that's
something we can't check visually.
(From the Gates Rubber Company webpages)
"Normally our cooling hoses are made of a rubber compound. The
primary cause of coolant hose failure is an electrochemical
process. This is known as ECD (ElectroChemical Degradation).
The combination of the hose, coolant (ethylene glycol antifreeze
& water) and the engine/radiator fittings form a galvanic cell
(battery). The chemical reaction causes microcracks in the hose
tube allowing the coolant to weaken the hose reinforcement.
To check the coolant hose is to squeeze the hose near the clamps
or connectors.
1. Engine must be cool (or you must like it hot ;D)
2. Use finger/thumb to check for weakness, not whole hand.
3. Squeeze near the connectors. ECD occurs within two inches of
the ends of the hose and not in the middle.
4. Check for difference in the feel between middle and ends of the
hose. Gaps or channels can be felt where it has been weakened
by ECD.
5. If the ends feel mushy, chances are great that the hose is
suffering from ECD. REPLACE the hose at once.
ECD is evident in almost every cooling system hoses (except the
very expensive stainless steel hoses). Most damaged is caused
where the temperature is hottest and air is present in the
coolant. This the main reason why upper radiator hoses tend to
fail first.
Solution: replace hoses every four years, especially upper
radiator, bypass and heater hoses."
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Of course here's the commercial break. Gates Rubber Company has
developed an electrochemically-resistant coolant hose (EPDM) using
new material (ethylene propylene rubber) and special wrapped
reinforcement. These hoses are long lasting with no ECD effect.
Compare: 20,000 miles for standard hoses and 200,000 miles for
the new EPDM hose."
The coolant chapter is copyrighted by The Gates Rubber Company,
1997. The reside in Denver, CO 80217.
More interesting information can be found at their website.
http://www.gates.com
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4. Check your radiator
Modern anti-freezes contains corrosion inhibitors and helps to
prevent the sediment forming into sludge. Your radiator system
could be cluttered up with this sludge.
The flow in the radiator is from top to bottom. That's why most
radiators collect this sludge in the top third of the radiator
core.
Cleaning the radiator system
Flush your radiator to get rid of the sludge. First put some
radiator cleaner into the cooling system. Run the system for a
couple of days. The cleaner then should shift/move the sludge
to get the system working again. The radiator cleaner will do its
work unless the radiator is to bad!
Next flush it! Do it reverse. I mean put the radiator with the
top to the bottom. The advantage of this procedure is that the
sludge collected in the third top of the radiator doesn't have
to travel far to get out of the system. Use a garden water hose
and let it run for an hour or so. Instead of a garden hose you
could use a power washer.
If this treatment doesn't work your radiator will definitely need
professional help.
For this article I consulted a great book. The title is
"Triumph TR7 briefing" from the series Practical Classics & Car
Restorer. Unfortenately this book is out of print. However here
is the data of the publisher. Perhaps they can point you to a
bookshop which has copies.
Publisher: Kelsey Publishing Limited.
Kelsey House, High Street
Beckenham, Kent BR3 1AN.
Printed in Great Brittain by Bayliss Printing Co. Ltd.
Stanley Street, Worksop, Nottinghamshire.
ISBN : 1 873098 13 8
Johan Vorsterman van Oijen (
vvo@voskotan.com )
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INCOMING MAIL
A short selection of mail I'm receiving regarding the Wedge Ezine.
It makes editing of the Wedge Ezine a great joy.
From: "Richard W. Rankin" < rwrankin@brooksdata.net
>
Johan,
I am new to this but I think that you are doing a fine job.
I bought a 1980 Triumph TR7 in January of this year.
And been driving it everyday since what a blast it is.
I live in west Texas and weather is nice. Top has been down ever
since I got it. The fuel pump started leaking and had a hard
time getting new one to fit. Finaly had to take arm off of old
pump and put it on the new one. There are a few other things that
need repair. The motors that raise the headlights don't work.
That will be the next job, also clutch slave clyinder is leaking
and will need repair. Other than that car is in good shape.
Again let me tell you of fine job I think you are doing.
Thank You,
Richard W Rankin
Alpine,Texas
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From: "Stephen Hall" < cle_ese@email.msn.com >
I just wanted to say that I've found the articles to be interesting
and quite helpful! Just what I was looking for! Thanks again.
Steve Hall
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From: Graham ( graham.dale@ladbrokes.co.uk )
Johan,
Thanks! I like the ezine. It's nice to see so many people share my
misguided appreciation of the TR7.
Personally, I would be interested in reading about other cars which
can be used as a source of standard and uprated TR7 components.
I would be particularly interested in finding out the various
possibilities for uprating the braking system.
I have read the info in the WWWedge site, but I wonder if there are
still more options and experiences that might be reported in the
ezine (e.g. using calipers from Escorts etc).
I would also like to read about peoples experiences in uprating the
standard 8V engine, in particular the fitment of a hotter cam etc.
I wonder how this compares with the 16V option.
I look forward to receiving future editions. Keep up the good work.
Regards,
Graham.
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From: Kirk Yonker < ocean11@ricochet.net >
Johan, Good Day!
Thanks again for the useful info above. I read Ezine No.3 last night
and I was impressed with the content and details outlined for
suspension and wheel upgrades. I plan to try following the bushing
upgrade as suggested in the Ezine. Thanks again, I'll look for the
pics on the WWWedge Website.
Best Regards,
Kirk Yonker
80 TR7 DHC
81 TR8 DHC PI
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From: SHolton799@aol.com
Thanks Johan for No. 3. I'll attempt to contribute as some of my
projects get going, especially our racing/competition results.
Also, I will write a review of the revised Road Atlanta course which
is being upgraded to be able to hold FIA events. They will be
holding a 1000 mile Le Man event on October 4th. This is the first
time that Le Man has allowed their name to be used on another event.
Mr. Panoz, who ownes the track has big plans, I just hope it includes
the Club racer.
Later,
Scott Holton
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THE POSTER
I have been working on combining all the Photos and written words
from both the Coupe and Convertible original sales brochures.
I have created a Poster approx. 36" X 24". I have a Photo Quality
Epson printer and have made two posters so far. It is made up of 12
sheets of Glossy ink jet paper cut and aligned together to make this
24x36 poster.
When it is in a poster frame (under plexiglas) the seams are not very
noticeable at all and you can read all the writing on all the pages
of the sales brochure. It takes me 2 hours to match registration and
join the 12 sheets so that the overlaped seams are nearly invisible.
I have been working on this project for 5 years. I received the
copyright permision to do 100 Posters in October of 1993 from the
British Heritage Trust.
Pre Production art work and only 100 posters was the show stopper
back in 1993. Now I have the software on my computer to make this
Collage Image and do all the art work myself. This is now all done
and I have a master file that is 92MB in size all retouched and ready
for pre press.
I need to know what kind of demand for this poster there would be???
I am shooting for an Approx. $40 each without the poster frame.
Poster frames 24 x 36 are around $10-15.
The next step, if there is enough interest, would be to contact
printers and have a run of posters made by a printer either on a
wide body ink jet printer or via printing process.
The $40.00 figure is what I would charge if there is so little
interest and somebody wants me to do one for them. I will of course
have the poster with me at Carlisle and other shows so you can see
it first hand. At the accompanying webpage there's is a JPG picture
(864x624) of the poster.
Contact me, Bill Sweeting via phone or mail or email if you want one.
If I get a lot of interest I will go and contact printers in the
Rochester Area and get pricing. If there is no interest than I have a
one of a kind poster.
Bill Sweeting (TR8CCA Memberships/Mailing List)
Email :
bsweeting@aol.com
Phone : 716 - 244 - 9693 (that's in Rochester!)
Snail mail : 266 Linden Street, Rochester, New York 14620
TR8CCA Website : http://team.net/TR8/tr8cca/
Webpage: http://www.team.net/TR8/mp/html/poster.html
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TR vs MGB
I enjoy the club newsletter (moderator: TR8CCA newsletter) and have
picked up a few hints from it.
You are absolutely correct David (Moderator: David Huddlesson TR8CCA)
regarding member input - no input, no future.
When I joined up a year ago, I was surprised at both the history
behind the club and the number of members as well as the material
covered in back issues. I'm saving for a set!
I had the feeling that perhaps everything had been said. As I had
only ever seen one TR8 before I purchased mine, I didn't realize the
interest was so strong. So at the risk of boring you, I shall tell
my story.
Since my first ride in an MGA at the age of 16, 1 have been in love
with English cars. My first car was an Austin Cambridge, but a
Healey 3000 soon followed. It was entertaining but down on power.
An Irish friend of mine helped me put a 327 Chevy engine in it with
a Saginaw 4 spd and the stock rear end - lightning up to 70 but then
very little. We built another for a friend.
A string of MGB'S, Midgets, TR6 and a Spitfire followed until the day
I heard about MG production coming to an end. I bought the best MGB I
could afford - a '76 - and put it into "shape", a treasure to keep...
Unfortunately it was anae@c beyond comprehension - my aged Tercel
would out accelerate it at will. A large SU helped a little, but the
thrill just wasn't there. So out came the four and in went a
Chevy 2.8 V6 with a T5 5 speed. Wonderful - but no top end.
I bought better diff gears, but before I could get around to putting
them in, I happened upon an advert in the main Toronto newspaper for
a TR8. That was towards the end of '97.
Of course I bought it - I couldn't resist. The B was great but I
needed a change and yes, I guess I wanted a V8. The TR was an '81
with close to 90,000 miles on the clock. While structurally sound
with fairly good paint and top, it was mechanically beat. It started
up well enough but ran on seven cylinders, the clutch release bearing
howled along with the rest of the tranny, the front end was on the
ground and the alternator didn't alternate.
The engine and trans came out right away, but I was confused over how
high to raise the compression and which cam to buy. I wanted to keep
the injection, as it appeared to work (and Ontario will be giving
1980 and later cars an annual breath test in the near future ).
I was unable to reach anyone who had modified an FI engine ( I didn't
know about the newsgroup) so I opted for 9.6 pistons and a mild Isky
cam (the numbers 262 come to mind). I polished the crank, replaced
the bearings, water and oil pumps and timing chain.
"1st it was out, I had the rad and starter done. The alternator
problem was a loose belt, but I needed an exhaust valve.
The tranny was a treat. I took it apart and it looked not too bad
- no missing teeth or "pine cone" gears. I removed every bearing and
race and ordered replacements through a friend who worked in a
bearing supply house. The lot was less than $100.00. I got an oil
pump, first and second synchro (it still grinds going into second
when it's cold!) and a gasket set from TRF. I did not have a press
to re-install the bearings on the shafts, so I took the lot to the
local "specialist". BIG MISTAKE!!!!
When I went to pick the shafts up the new bearings were burned black
and blue. Our specialist had merely hit them with a torch until they
"slid" on. "Do it all the time" was the moron's response to my
complaint. More new bearings, this time pressed on with care and
precision by a motorcycle shop. A shaved flywheel, a clutch and a new
release bearing (is there an alternative to the stock unit?) and the
power train was back in.
I couldn't afford the headers as I had some suspension work to do.
Ball joints, tie rod ends, shocks and springs all'round
(the "lowering springs" from Vic Brit put the back end up higher than
stock), bushings in the front and it was now April. I merely cleaned
the injection parts and tested the injectors by powering them on a
bench with a can of cleaner hooked up. All had a good spray pattern
and none dripped.
I was a stranger to L Jetronic but I'm learning - I just read
Probsts' fine book. The reborn engine started right up. In about 10
minutes, the higher compression (I guess) had loosened up the guts in
the converters and they've rattled ever since. I bash them
periodically with a hammer and they shut up for a few days, but
idling is not pleasant.
It was a great summer. The car runs very well although I've never
ridden in or driven another Rover product of any type with which to
compare it with.
I saw 13 TR8s at British Car Day this past fall but had to-depart
before I could meet any of the other owners.
Other than the noisy cats, I've had only one other problem. Half way
between a cold start and full operating temperature, one lifter gets
very noisy. It raps for about a mile and then shuts up for the day.
I blamed the lifter and finally replaced it with an identical
new one. It was quiet for 2 weeks and then started again. Lately,
however, it only raps occasionally. I shall check the preload when I
get it apart and see if perhaps a longer pushrod is the answer.
Perhaps I should have replaced the valve springs - are there any that
better suit my cam?
I have been unable to get any advice on the ignition timing.
The manual and service labels in the engine compartment ask for
TDC + -- 1 deg. I've played around with the setting, but can never
really notice any difference. Any ideas?
The engine idles rather roughly which I blame on the cam.
It also has low idle vacuum. It starts well in the cold (Toronto gets
cold) but the idle speed doesn't increase. I'll have to check the
extra air valve. The oxygen sensors are connected but God knows if
they are reading. (are there any replacements for the originals
or am I stuck with Bosch)?
As I can no longer stand the rattling catalytic converters I shall go
for the headers and a set of generic cats. I will have to weld in
some modifications to accept the EGR valve and oxygen sensors.....
sounds crazy but that emissions test.....
What else can I tell you. The TR is much quicker than the V6 MGB
(I had to sell it - a cold breeze blew through the home when they
were both in the garage!!) and of course out handles it but then
they weren't exactly contemporaries.
I only rev the TR to about 4500 rpm as it is still at a rather low
mileage, I wonder if it gets enough fuel at above 3500 rpm when the
CPU preprogram takes over from the maxed-out air flow sensor.
Has anyone tried an adjustable fuel pressure regulator?
Maybe the breathing hasn't been improved that much - the heads are
stock and it's running fine. I don't have access to an EG analyser.
I guess that's about it. I'll have it up in the air soon for the
exhaust mods. If anyone has some advice or answers to my questions
I'm on the net at fanman@inforamp.net. See you down the road.
Lawrence Cotton ( fanman@inforamp.net )
This article was published first in the TR8CCA newsletter, #48
(Jan/Feb/March 1998). With permission published in the Wedge Ezine.
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That's it folks. Did you enjoy it? Why not write something for the
Ezine. I'm certain that every reader will be curious about your
adventures with our beloved wedges. Never mind the subject as long
as it related to our wedges.
Mark Tinker has scanned an old HotRod magazine (1985) with an
interesting article about the Buick 215 V8. I couldn't squeeze it
into this edition. The Buick article will be featured in the next
edition.
Cheers,
Johan Vorsterman van Oijen ( vvo@voskotan.com )
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WWWedge Ezine is a free email newsletter for anyone who is interested
in the classic car Triumph TR7 and TR8.
Please state: the list of subscribers will not be shared with anyone.
The information is used to distribute the newsletter. This newsletter
is no SPAM. It's send to you based on your subscription.
Advice, articles and opinions are offered 'as it is'. The publisher
cannot accept responsibility for any errors or omissions.
The newsletter may be freely copied and/or distributed in its
entirety.
(c) 1998, The World Wide Wedge (http://www.team.net/TR8/)
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