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By Johan Vorsterman van Oijen (NL)

Featured in Wedge Ezine no. 3 (February 1998)

After the recent thread at the TR7/8 mailing list, this compilation of messages about bushes/shocks can be useful.

If you are going to replace bushes, fit UPRATED items.

You can notice worn rear bushes if the rear-end starts to steer the car! To test, drive along a long fast-ish bend and vary the power (be careful, don't crash). If the rear end seems to steer the car then there is too much compliance to the rear bushing.

If you are using UPRATED bushes then also UPRATED shocks/dampers and UPRATED springs should be used (more about springs later). SPAX and KONI are well-known, also KYB is frequently used.

Back in 1992 Mike Jeffreys ( jeffremj@boat.bt.com ) posted a list of suspension mods. Up till now it's very helpful, so here it is.

Front                  Type    Remark
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Inner track control bush    UPRATED   A hard bush should not cause
                                      harshness and will firm-up the
                                      handling (not the ride)

Anti-roll bar end bushes    UPRATED   I'm running hardened bushes
                                      without problems of harshness

Anti-roll bar centre bushes UPRATED

Subframe bushes             Standard  Uprated are too harsh

Shock absorbers             Adjust    Use new ones! SPAX set to
                                      uprated spring, or overdamped
                                      standard springing

Anti-dive kit                         Probably not needed with above
                                      mentioned items


Rear                        Type      Remark
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Large bushes                Hard      Use only the solid types (that
                                      is, not those with the cutouts)
                                      Fit uprated bushes only in the
                                      front of the arm, not the rear!
                                      Use std. bushes in the rear of
                                      the arm to reduce vertical
                                      bump harshness and axle noise
                                      transmitted into the car

Small bushes                Hard      It's ok to use hardened bushes
                                      in the front of the arm
                                     
                            Std       Only, to limit axle noise
                                      transmitted into body of car

Shock absorbers             Adjust    Use SPAX adjustables set
                                      to critical damping with
                                      uprated spring, or overdamped
                                      with standard spring

++++Moderator 0.2
I have fitted the SuperPro poly bushes. They can be compared with the uprated items, except that in principle these bushes have a long-life duration. They are also self-lubricating.

The "SuperPro" poly bushes for the front sway bar are moulded with a logitudal split between the base and one side of the loop so the bush can be slipped over the bar at the correct position. I find the noise transmission acceptable and IMHO quieter than with my earlier setup (std bushes/springs).

Why use poly bushes?
Rubber is susceptible to the elements found in normal, everyday use, such as oil, fluid spills, salt, dry rot, etc. It's virtually impossible to avoid some of these damaging elements. The dynamic torque forces rubber has to deal with during suspension's operation is often too demanding. Polyurethane is a synthetic material and can resist dynamic torque-like twisting and turning forces of suspension components.

Of course everything is based on personal opinion. Some of you may like the standard setup but according to the threads most wedge owners do not!!!
++++

Shocks
A bad shock could lead to an accident. So shocks are very important. Shocks are an important part to the steering and suspension system. THEY WEAR GRADUALLY! Most drivers won't notice the difference in ride and handling of the car when driving with worn shocks. They will only notice when a emercency arises.

A shock is a hydraulic mechanism in a car's suspension system. It works in conjunction with a coil spring to support the weight of a car. No doubt it's a vital part of the car handling. Shocks improve handling by reducing front end dive when braking. They control body
sway and roll on turns. Also wheel hop is prevented if good shocks are used. Otherwise a wheel hop can lead to loss of control. It also prevents your car from shaking itself to pieces.

Gas charged shocks last longer than other types, but they still have fluid inside. Most shocks are filled with nitrogen which prevents aeration of the fluid. Aeration of fluid will cause foaming and foaming brings down the shock absorber performance. The operating principle of hydraulic shocks is in forcing fluids through restricting openings in the valves. This restricted flow serves to slow down and control rapid movement in the car springs as they react to road irregularities. Fluid flow thru pistons is mostly controlled by spring-loaded valves. Gas shocks are preferable because they also improve the internal valving of the shock, improving both stability and ride.

Shock absorber strut
A strut is designed to resist pressure in the direction of its length. Typical for our wedges is the 'MacPherson' strut. The shock is built into the strut. Some 'MacPherson' systems are equipped with low-pressure gas-filled shock struts (original wedge setup). They are non-adjustable and nonrefillable. A faulty unit must be replaced as an assembly. Replace shocks always in pairs. After replacing wheel align is probably needed. As earlier mentioned shocks are an integral part of the suspension system.

When to replace a shock?
o Clunking noise during normal driving conditions
o steering stiffness or a 'quickspot' while turning the automobile
o poor steering returns
o roll or sway in turns
o vehicle bounces or sways sideways on a winding rough road
o increased braking distance
o abnormal front diving while braking

Springs
No doubt, if your uprating your shocks than you MUST uprate your springs. And if you uprate your springs use the progressive springs. The coil pitch of 'normal' springs stays the same all the way up the spring. With progressive springs the coil pitch gets tighter the closer you get to the top. The effect of this is that the spring increases resistance, the more it's compressed. E.g. when cornering the car the springs are more compressed so is the resistance.

++++Moderator 0.2
Info is compelled from different sources.

With permission I've been using stuff from the website of Energy Suspension. Their website contains more useful information about suspension, bushes, etc. They don't fabricate bushes for the TR7/8 but who knows in the future....

http://www.energysuspension.com

Shocks
http://www.kyb.com
http://www.webgarage.com/ci/susp.htm (suspension, 4wheel alignment, shocks)

Also with permission I've been using some very good material from Chris Longhurst. He wrote a couple of technical bibles about tires and suspension. Take a look at his page, long download but interesting information.
 
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/2195/tyre_bible.html
htpp://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/2195/suspension_bible.html
++++

Poly bushes
                                      Original partno.     Polybush partno.

Rear lower arm bush        (4 needed) 152308 / 149827      SPF070
Rear upper arm bush        (4 needed) 149849               SPF072
Roll bar to chassis        (2 needed) UKC210               SPF111
Lower inner front wishbone (2 needed) CRC307               SPF139
Front strut bump stop      (2 needed) UKC1101              SPF189
Spring seat upper front    (2 needed) UKC5615              SPF252
Subframe, upper bush       (4 needed) 155793               SPF324
Roll bar to arm            (4 needed) UKC208/TKC6097       SPF518
Subframe, front lower bush (2 needed) 159209               SPF676
Rear lower bush            (2 needed) UKC307               SPF894
Steering column bush       (1 needed) UKC2322              SPF1063

More information at:

           British Auto Care
           McCarthy Street, Salisbury,
           Brisbane, Australia,
Website:   http://www.bac.com.au
E-mail:    mailto:staff@bac.com.au
Tel:       +61 7 32742828
Fax:       +61 7 32775344