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Re: Ignition Switch + Carb

To: Bricklin@autox.team.net, Olenick@ssims.nci.nih.gov
Subject: Re: Ignition Switch + Carb
From: "K M" <symbiotic@hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 23:09:41 PDT
I just did the switch last Saturday.  The replacement is AMC pt# 3197598 
- Filko 3527 (GM tilt wheel) or NAPA Echlin KS6622.  To do the switch I 
pulled the seat to make it easier (also to cant the seat) and got under 
the dash.  First, unhook the negative post on the battery because you 
don't want the thing switching to the start position.  There is a saddle 
like thing that holds the column up and kind of hides the switch. It has 
four bolts that hold it to the column and two that hold the whole 
assembly up. Take this off -- it comes off easily and it makes the whole 
job a lot easier. Then take off the two 5/16 little bolts that hold the 
switch up there. Move the switch so that you get the little rod out that 
operates it and move it so that you can take the plugs out and note that 
you have to take both out together (as a unit). Plug in the new switch 
and get the rod in there.  Bolt the thing in, hook the battery and make 
sure that all works and is in position then replace the saddle. Time -- 
about an hour the first time -- probably 30 minutes after you know how 
to do it (the thing that took time for me was whether to remove that 
saddle). Mine is a 74 but I think that the 75s are the same. If you have 
any questions, ask away. Kim 

>Two questions:
>   I am in need of an ignition switch - i think that there has been 
some
>conversation on the topic before and the part number was OEM #3197598?  
Also ..
>where is this switch located.  I seem to remember it being on the base 
of the
>steering column near the firewall on an 87 Iroc that I was working on 
but when i
>look at the base of the cloumn on the bricklin i could not find it.  
Anyone
>know?  Is it on the top side of the column?
>   I am also considering changing the carb.  Is there an advantage or
>disadvantage to removing all of the pollution control devices?  Would 
this be a
>problem due to the amount of vacuum lines in the bricklin? Or should I 
just get
>a good aftermarket carb?
>                                               Thanks,  Jamie



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