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Fw: Rustproofing & air board adjustment

To: "Bricklin" <bricklin@autox.team.net>
Subject: Fw: Rustproofing & air board adjustment
From: "Greg Monfort" <wingracer@email.msn.com>
Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 13:15:09 -0500


>Is it possible to rustproof a bricklin without doing a full
restoration?
>I want to at least neutralize the rust on 1758 so it won't do any
more
>damage while I get things in order financially.
=======
There should be shops that pressure spray the insides if theframe
rails with rust conversion coating, then undercoating to seal and
sound dampen.

For external areas, you can DIY with Duro's Extend or equal, then
spray paint or spray undercoat.
=======
>
>Also, My air board consists of four solenoids on a metal plate.  At
the
>top of each solenoid, there is a place for a regular headed
screwdriver.
>I tried turning the adjuster to slow doan the closing cycle and
speed up
>the open cycle.  The adjustment, however did not seem to want to
move.
>Do I have to use a socket to loosen the nut in order to turn the
>adjustment knob?
=======
Right. slightly loosen it with a wrench, adjust the screw, then
retighten.
=======
  I don't want to try anything like this in case it isnt
>right, and doing so would disassemble the solenoid in such a way
that I
>cannot put it back together =)
>
>My dad and I tested the headlamps, and the bulbs are good.  Hi
beams work
>but low beams do not.  what are the chances of the switch on the
>floorboard going bad?  Anybody have a part #?
=======
Use an ohmmeter to verify whether the lamp is good or not.

In doing some wire tracing for John the other day, my dimmer switch
wouldn't work on low either. I took it out and cleaned it with
electronic spray and relubed it and now it works fine. Maybe that's
all yours needs.

Mine is Borg Warner DS108.

GM



>
>Thanks,
>Riley Marquis III
>VIN 1758
>
>




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