John,
Looks like you got it figured out before I had a chance to get home and check
mine. Just to be sure I just checked my car and sure enough I have the F101
(green). The one that didn't work was the F102 (blue I still have it as I had
it too long to return it) I checked my notes and Terry T. was the one who
told me the blue wouldn't work. There is a big sticker on my F101 that says
it replaces DY-166, whatever that means.
Marvin
#1343
In a message dated 6/23/00 6:56:33 PM Mountain Daylight Time, jblair@exis.net
writes:
<< At 12:44 AM 6/23/00 EDT, Marvin wrote:
>It was me you spoke to about 3 vs. 2 wires. I had the 3 wire harness and 2
>wire module. I replaced my harness with a 2 wire from Terry as the 3 wire
>didn't work. Another thing to check is to make sure the "blue" (where the
>wires come out) module is correct. I bought 2 different colors as one
didn't
>work. I'll check this weekend as to which color is right.
---------
Then Dave Farbacher also wrote:
The 3 to 2 wire difference shouldn't be an issue. But, if you look on the 4
wire connector, the black and purple wires are swapped on the module with
the blue grommet. Reversing these 2 wires should fix the problem.
Dave Farbacher
------------
Marvin, et al.
Here is a copy of an email I just sent to Wells Manuf. Co.. I talked to
one of their Tech reps, Brian, today. Brian was very helpful and a great
guy to talk to on the phone. At first he was sure the problem was a bad
ground. So I grounded the module to both the wiring harness ground on the
back of the pass. fender well, and then to the battery to no avail. I then
called him back and we started going through the various wires. We both
agreeded on the wires, what they did and were they went. However, he did
indicate that the 2 wires comming off the dist. pickup were polarity
sensative
- as they, Wells, had a diode on one of the input lines. So I proceeded to
connect the 4 wire connector with 4 aligator clips to and reversed the 2
wires going the the dist. pickup. This also failed. By now Brian had gone
home for the weekend.
So I called my local autoparts store (AutoZone) and asked to talk to one
of the counterpersons that knows me and the Bricklin. Asked if he had a
BLACK connector module. He said yes so off I went, accompanied by my
neighbor Jim (you keep hearing about him in The Brickline). Our friend
at AutoZone pulled the BLACK connector module. The connectors were wrong.
(See below). So we started checking other Ford V8s from 74-76. Found a
GREEN module. Took it home and the eng. fired!!!!!
So I've sent the following email to Brian to see what else we can learn
about ign. modules.
-----------------
Brian,
Been playing some more with the ign. module. I tried reversing the
2 wires to the ign. module for the dist. pickup and it still would not
fire.
Let me give you a little more backround:
The original module:
Motorcraft D5AE 12A99 xxx it looks like the xxx may be F2A can't tell.
This module has a BLACK connector where the wires come out. However,
there is a GREEN piece of plastic tape on the side.
I originally purchased a F100 which had the BLACK connector where the wires
come out. This module would NOT work as the 2 wire connector's key was in
a different position than the original three wire connector. So I returned
this module.
I was then given the F102 module which had a BLUE connector. This is the
one that wouldn't fire the car either. And I had when we were talking
this afternoon (6/23/00). I tried grounding it and reversing the Dist.
pickup leads and it wouldn't fire the eng.
I called my autoparts store (AutoZone) and asked if they had a BLACK
connector box. They said yes. So off I went to get it. When they
pulled it, it had the wrong connector. So we started going through
all the Ford V8 from 74 to 76. Most called for either the F102 or the
F100. One (don't remember what) called for an F101. It had a GREEN
connector and the plugs were right. Brought it home, plugged it in
and the eng. light!!!!! :)
So I guess my initial problem, getting the eng to fire with an (any)
module is solved. However, now I have to ask the next obvious question.
What is the difference between these boxes - F100, F101, and F102?
Then the other question that I have to ask, is what does the F101 cross
reference back to as an application so next time I can get the correct
module?
Finally are the F100 (BLACK) and F101 (GREEN) boxes basically the same
with the exception of the orientation of the pins and key on the 2 wire
connector? Remember that I told you that one of the other Bricklin owners
had to purchase a different dist. harness? Could it be that he is using
the F100, and the new harness just has a new 2 wire connector with the
wires and key correctly positioned for the 2 wire connector?
Any help you can provide as to the differences will be greatly appreciated.
I am assuming that the F101 (GREEN) ign. module will work on my Ford 351W
eng. across the entire rpm range, and NOT break down at some point above
say 3,000 rpms.
Thanks for you help Friday.
John
------------------------
Hopefully, he'll get back to me and I'll have more info to pass on later
next week.
Hope you all find this interesting.
John
John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net
Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229
48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III
Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin: www.bricklin.org >>
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