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Re: Question: What primer to use?

To: BERKEN@aol.com
Subject: Re: Question: What primer to use?
From: Daniel Neuman <dneuman@stars.sfsu.edu>
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999 09:57:47 -0700 (PDT)
Hello All
        I two have been thinking about doing my own prep to save money...
I have noticed that JC Whitney sells an airless paint sparayer for 
automotive applications.  Like a wagner power painter but this one 
is designed specifically for automotive type paints.  I think it was 
like 80 bucks.  Might this be a good comprimise for theh do it your 
selfer???  As opposed to the huge expense of buying a good compresser
spray gun and all that stuff???
        I was thinking about using this to spray on several coats of 
thin primer.
                Daniel
                69 2000
> 
> In a message dated 07/06/1999 2:52:00 PM Mountain Daylight Time, 
> sandhoff@compctr.ccs.csus.edu writes:
> 
> << So, if I do the sanding and puttying and body prep work, what primer
>  should I be spraying? Is there a 'rattle can' primer compatible with
>  getting a quality top coat laid down when the time comes?
>  
>  -- John
>       John F Sandhoff   sandhoff@csus.edu   Sacramento, CA
>   >>
> 
> John, 
> 
> NO NO NO, don't try to get it prepped w/spray cans.  I would suggest you get 
> a book called "How to Paint Your Car"; it's available from Classic Motorbooks 
> at 1-800-826-6600 and it will tell you a lot about prepping a car for paint. 
> Just a couple of notes on a subject you could talk about for days...
> 
> 1. If you expect the paint to stick to your prepped body, you're going to 
> need to buy a compressor and a spray gun.  The neat thing about primer is 
> it's very forgiving. If you get a run, you can just wet sand it smooth again.
> 2.  You don't have to go to bare metal but you HAVE to get down to SOUND (not 
> flaking) paint.  If you wet sand w/220 wet paper, you can get it done faster. 
>  The ENTIRE body has to be roughed up to give the old paint some "tooth" to 
> adhere to.  
> 3.  Remove ALL old wax and polishes BEFORE you begin.  You can use a wax and 
> polish remover from an auto paint store or mineral spirits (paint thinner) 
> works ok too.
> 4.  Learn to do guide coats.  The smallest little dent you can barely see in 
> primer is glaringly obvious with shiny/$50/qt paint on it.  If you really 
> want to get a good looking job, you're going to need to learn to do body 
> work. I can't remember the name of my favorite (it's packed) but Classic 
> Motorbooks has several.  It's very unlikely the body is totally straight.
> 5.  It takes some time and is hard work, but very rewarding.
> 
> Hope this helps. Email if you want me to ramble some more.....
> 
> Joseph Berkenbile
> 70 1600
> Albuquerque
> 
> 


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