3.5 ft/lb of torque on those.
One area that I learned to check to avoid leaks is the rear main bearing
cap. This forms part of the mating surface for the pan. If the block has
been align-bored during the rebuild process, this can cause that surface to
sit further up into the block than the rest of the pan mating surface,
especially if this has been done more than once. On one engine I had to cut
a short piece of thin gasket material to fill the gap in order to stop a
leak.
There's plenty of difference of opinion about gasket sealant yes/no, but I
like to use a *very thin* coating of Hylomar on any non-machined surfaces
like the oil pan, thermostat housing, etc.
Gordon Glasgow
-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jeremy mayne
Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2009 6:55 AM
To: stebharvey@ameritech.net; datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Oil pan gasket
I don't know if this is the "correct" method, but when I built my stroker
motor, I used a new cork gasket, new lock washers, and no gasket sealer.
After installing the bolts, I worked my way around the pan multiple times,
tightening to spec each time (I think 12lbs, but don't quote me on that).
No
leaks so far.
Jeremy Mayne
70 SPL stroker (sadly unused right now)
> From: stebharvey@ameritech.net
> To: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
> Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 06:36:41 -0500
> Subject: [Roadsters] Oil pan gasket
>
> Group,
>
>
>
> Can someone provide insight into the correct method for installing a new
oil
> pan gasket on a 1600 engine? Also, is it true that the same gasket can be
> used on the 1600 and 2000 engine?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Steve Harvey
>
> Milwaukee
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