In a message dated 97-08-14 14:25:18 EDT, you write:
<< Poses an interesting question in my mind. Anybody have any ideas what
> it
> might take to set up a 1966 Triumph 2000 sedan to tow a relatively
> heavy
> single-axle trailer on which might be placed a relatively light
> Spitfire 4
> "RPM" (Relies on Period Modifications) autocross car? Some sort of
> rear
> load-leveler shocks, perhaps? Heavy-duty clutch? (Which one?)
> Anything
> else?
>
> Keep in mind this scheme hinges on two very important points:
>
> 1. would have to be on a very, very tight budget 2. would depend on
> the
> success of an archaelogical dig that would actually free the 2000 from
> the
> depths of my barn and thus inspire me to resurrect said car from a
> very
> long slumber (about 26 years, I think)!
> >>
Hi FOT & Andy
strange, I never got the origional message, just the one from Bill B. To
add to his good thoughts: trailer surge brakes would also do (just how
heavy is your trailer?) Do you know the tongue weight required for
stability?
Do NOT use just a bumper mount for the tow ball mount on this
car. The factory optional "Witter towing bracket" PN# 211688 is shown
clearly on page 5.221 of the workshop manual with full fitting instructions.
a cheap approx. copy is as close as your nearest supply of angle and
plate iron. Check the trunk floor for strength/rust, & use large brackets
inside to match those shown outside.
The 2000s were often used for towing "caravans" and the cooling system,
once cleaned and checked would probably be up to the task. Ours did OK
in the Ohio summers with a cool thermostat; just do not expect the gauge
to sit in the middle. The more that your trailer and Spit fit in the 2000
slipstream,
the better
The 2000 is well geared for towing ( a big help for the clutch); 13"
wheels,
a 4.1 axle, and lower gears in the gearbox than the TR4/6 (note that the
clutch
splines are GT6 not TR6)
The 2000 2.5 PI & TC had a stronger clutch fitted, but they had
much more power. I considered putting a TR6 motor in our 2000 and
making it a full time tow car years ago.
If you do not need the rear seat for this trip, remove the seat bottom and
put
the heavy items there instead of back in the trunk (this helps both the
polar moment and the headlight alignment)
the safest and cheapest thing to do is to road test the rig locally well
before
a real trip, and make changes starting there.
What does this guy know about towing with unusual cars.
(who me) Hardy
.
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