Hello everyone,
We spent the last few days in Williamsport visiting our boy. I am just now
getting a chance to read about the aluminum seal responses. I appreciate the
responses, saved them all, and will print them and try to sort out the
opinions. Question: Is it the opinion of the list that I should try to
adjust my tool dimension from 2.822/2.823" to 2.818"? Thanks again in
advance.
<<PS Does your seal tool glow in the dark??>> It shows some activity with a
meter, but not enough to glow in the dark. I imagine that something else
will kill me first. Maybe we should use the nuclear highly radioactive
robots to search the Afghan caves.
In a message dated 11/21/01 5:11:31 PM Pacific Standard Time, Catpusher
writes:
<< Subj: Re: : TR Rear seal - Kas techique
Date: 11/21/01 5:11:31 PM Pacific Standard Time
From: Catpusher
To: bradlnss@lightspeed.net
CC: WEmery7451
In a message dated 11/20/2001 10:17:52 PM Pacific Standard Time,
bradlnss@lightspeed.net writes:
<< The factory dimension is 2.822. I measured the nylon Moss tool at 2.823.
Here is Hardy's information:
"[My tool is] marked "exact" 2.818" I have used it on quite a few race
and street motors. It is steel. plus 0.005" is not good at all."
I would love to get more comment and/or experience on the seal mandrel and
resulting leakage. >>
<TR3> What Leakage :-)
Oh, the first time I used a tool given to me made to the WSM size, it
leaked on the dyno, even to the roof. Before that I had always used a crank
piece with a few pieces of thread inside the brg. shells. I hand hacksawed
the flywheel flange off &
used 0.002" feeler gauges.
BTW: the alignment surface of the tool has to be true to the brg. area
surface. + - 0
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