I've always used a press. I'm sure Hardy is right about it being a bad
thing, but it's what I got. I heat the joint lightly, presoak with
penetrating oil, heat it again next day until the oil smokes, and press
with a good jig to support the flange. Usually there's no drama, though
I've had one stubborn one that zinged the axle around the shop a bit.
I clean the parts well after (bead blaster with plastic media) and dye
penetrant test. Sometimes I magnaflux as well, though I can do the
penetrant testing here. I should set up a magnaflux system--it's not that
tough.
-----Original Message-----
From: Catpusher@aol.com
To: cartravel@pobox.com; fot@autox.team.net
Cc: N197TR4@cs.com
Sent: 6/3/2003 2:35 PM
Subject: hub removal TR3A-6
The factory hub puller, or one that also contacts the entire hub flange.
This device uses the std. studs, and is designed to be clobbered on the
head
of
the puller thread once load is applied. It also has a cap to protect
the end
of the half shaft.
Joe (A) has his method.
Presses stress the hub and have often lead to failure in a short time.
Some mag devices and operators are better than others, and none can
detect a soon to arrive crack.
My in house mag devices are a number of magnifying glasses & my x-ray
eyes
lol
Hardy
In a message dated 6/2/2003 5:39:31 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
cartravel@pobox.com writes:
> And what is the correct way to remove the hub? I've heard a lot about
> axles breaking, but not much about hubs. That's why I took four of
them apart
> and had them magnafluxed. They were all tough. I soaked them several
days with
> penetrating oil, but had to use a lot of pressure and some heat to get
them
> off. They magnafluxed ok afterwards. There have been a total of
about
> eleven days on the track since then. I believe I'll be inspecting
them frequently
> from now on.
> Larry
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