Actually, the TR2 & TR3 had 0.012" exhaust lash cold standard "Touring" until
they went to aluminum pedestals at engine # TS 12564E. This was after my 56
was built, and many used the early pedestals for competition, thinking that
they were stronger.
"High Speed Motoring" was 0.013" for both inlet and exhaust, also cold.
Most racing cams are set hot; just try to do it before the exhaust valve
shrinks!
P&G made a valve gapper (model 300) for doing valve setting while the motor
was running.
It was also useful for lubricating the body!
As for head studs into blocks: many factory shop manuals give torque
figures for this operation, and I had the best results with some torque used
during
screwing them into the block with clean threads. The listed torques are far
less than for the nut end.
Hardy
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From: "Fred & Mary Hodgson" <stlnyc@msn.com>
Subject: Re: re-torqing cylinder heads hot???
Andy -
It depends on which cam you're running. Stock Triumph from day one (except
TR-7) was .010" cold. Warmed over & competition grinds were usually spec'd
hot. If you're given cold & hot settings, then I'd go with hot.
Fred Hodgson
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