I would agree that .75's are a little hard. I have Toyota 4Runner 4 pot
calipers on the front and the 7/8s Morgan cylinders on the rear [I think
that is there size]. Have a balance bar welded into the brake pedal --
also have but now keep wide open, a balance adjuster on the rear brake
line. It takes a lo of push to lock them up [but in a panic I sure did
it easily once].
Chuck
Don Marshall wrote:
>I'm using a pair of .70 master cylinders with a Tilton balance bar and
>.75 rear wheel cylinders on my TR4. I had .75 MCs and the pedal was
>very hard. .70 seems just right. Don
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-fot@Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-fot@Autox.Team.Net] On
>Behalf Of Bill Babcock
>Sent: Thursday, February 03, 2005 1:20 PM
>To: Henry Frye; ikorey@comcast.net
>Cc: FOT@Autox.Team.Net
>Subject: RE: Brake Master Cylinder questions
>
>The reason brake pressure is so high with a failed power brake is that
>the
>cylinders are large--an engineer told me once that it's a lot easier to
>build and fit a short stroke assist servo than a long stroke. I don't
>know
>why that would be so.
>
>I suspect you'd like a dual cylinder setup with adjustable bias. I'm
>playing
>around with different master cylinders on Peyote, in part because I have
>so
>many of them. I know it sounds odd, but I think using two MC of the same
>size and adjusting the bias mechanically makes a lot of sense. If
>nothing
>else you only need one size of rebuild kit to carry around. Right now I
>have
>paired .70 tiltons. I'll let you folks know how that works out.
>
>
>Bill Babcock
>Babcock & Jenkins
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-fot@Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-fot@Autox.Team.Net] On
>Behalf
>Of Henry Frye
>Sent: Thursday, February 03, 2005 4:21 AM
>To: ikorey@comcast.net
>Cc: FOT@Autox.Team.Net
>Subject: Re: Brake Master Cylinder questions
>
>Hi Irv, and the rest the gang...
>
>I am the guy Irv is talking about that has the TR6 m/c with no booster
>and
>likes it. I believe I am running the system as installed by Bruce
>Stutzman
>when he built the car. TR6 front calipers with .70 wheel cylinders in
>the
>back. Finding the right brake lining material made a big difference, I
>am
>running Panther Plus pads and shoes. Stopping the car is no trouble,
>it's
>nothing like the pedal pressure required to stop a big power brake
>equipped
>car when the engine cuts out.
>
>I do think the high pedal pressure makes it easier to modulate threshold
>braking. Also, I rarely flat spot tires.
>
>I have also been thinking about changes to my brakes, but if I do I will
>be
>going with a two master cylinder setup for two reasons. First, I truly
>doubt the added safety of the tandem master cylinder. When bleeding the
>brakes, when I open any bleeder screw the pedal drops to the floor.
>Second,
>I like the idea of the adjustability of the front to rear bias.
>
>At 11:06 PM 02/02/2005 +0000, you wrote:
>
>
>>Friends,
>>
>>My TR4 vintage racer is currently equipped with the full TR6 brake
>>master cylinder/vacuum booster set up. I would like to eliminate the
>>
>>
>booster.
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