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Re: [Fot] thread sealing

To: "Friends of Triumph" <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] thread sealing
From: "rdwismer" <rdwismer@mchsi.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2006 22:35:48 -0600
BILL,

GREG IS RIGHT I USE PST  WHICH I GOT FROM MY LOCKTITE REP. I am about to run
out so I need a to find a new Rep or buy some. I believe this is the Greg
Lund that lived in the QC in the 80s and move to Phoenix.. Nice
guy..............Wismer




---- Original Message -----
From: "greg" <gtlund@cyberspeedway.net>
To: "FOT LIST" <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 18, 2006 6:44 PM
Subject: [Fot] thread sealing


> Hey Group,
>      I know we are all victims of the British car oil leak legend even
> though the amount of oil leaked by British cars pales in comparison to
> the amounts leaked Chevys. GM didn't stop using rope seals on the small
> block until 1983. Most British cars at least used rubber lip type seals
> by the mid '60s and that labyrinth seal on the TR2-4 is a very effective
> seal when manufactured and installed right. Modern steam and gas
> turbines sometimes use them. We don't have to keep contributing to the
> legend if we use modern sealants. Since my day job is designing
> hydraulic systems I have some experience at keeping oil from returning
> to mother earth.
>      The best sealant for pipe threads or straight threads with a washer
> under the head (extremely dumb way to do it but we are stuck with that
> on several TR places) is the Loctite PST series - I like the 567 PST hi
> temp because it is good for 400 degrees F. Get the threads as clean as
> possible by flushing with brake clean then run a small amount all around
> the bottom of the male thread and screw in by hand. Tighten moderately
> tight with a wrench and it will not come loose or leak. If you want a
> fast cure use the 7649 primer. The PST product is anaerobic (cures in
> the absence of air). Loctite used to claim 1500 psi immediate capability
> with hand tight and 15,000 psi after 24 hour cure. You will not find
> that published anymore for liability reasons. This product has small
> teflon particles in it to help lubricate the threads for installation
> but the particles are small enough not to harm anything we have. The
> dissassembly torque is only 150% of assembly so it comes apart easy.
> Uncured PST will flush away with brake clean. At this point I have to
> say something about Teflon tape - use it only as a last resort. IT IS
> NOT A THREAD SEALANT. It is only a thread lubricant to allow the tapered
> pipe thread to be screwed in further - possibly splitting the thread
> boss. I have had more than a few customers wanting a warranty for a
> "casting flaw" at the thread boss.
>      Another use for PST is to wipe it on top of an AN fitting with a
> damaged seat. Works most of the time at our low pressures. I use it
> under the large washer and nut on the half shaft, transmission, and
> pinion flanges. It is particularly good at sealing up compression
> fittings which are damaged. I have sealed many straight thread, through
> bolts into oil passages and cavities like crankcases. I once built a TR3
> motor that didn't leak a drop of oil on the guy's garage floor for three
> years and he actually put about 8k miles on it (the car not the floor).
>      If I think of more oil sealing tricks I'll send them out.
>
> Greg Lund
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