Hi,
Update on the crank thing... I measured the crank to the best of my
ability (I have to admit that it takes me a while to recall how to read
micrometers properly... well that and the fact that I have a lot of
trouble seeing the gradations on the micrometers, but I digress) and the
crank is round (to within .0005) and it also true to within the capability
of my dial indicator. I did discover that the crank end-float is slightly
out of spec, but it's a TR6 - I think that's a given (and I have a box of
thrust washers to play with.
What I wound up doing was installing the Goodparts ATI superdamper. When
the parts arrived, I sat reading the directions and then went around the
shop and garage picking up this and that (like a brake hone) in case I
needed to "help" the fitment... the thing literally bolted on. The part on
the crank is nice and tight, but almost no effort was needed to draw it in
place. This was a very pleasant installation... highly recommended.
So now I move on to the next "issue". I'm installing a head that is 3.290"
think. Yes, that is not a misprint. I cc'd the head and the combustion
chambers are 36cc's pretty much what I was looking for 11.9xx:1 +/-
But the head is so freakin' "thin" that the studs are interfering with the
rocker pedestals. UGH.
So here's the next question: could someone please provide me with the
dimensions of the ARP head studs for TR6 / GT6? Especially, the difference
in the length of the ARP studs to the stock pieces. I'm trying to
determine if I should bite the bullet and install a set of those or if I
should just shim the pedestals to get another .020" or clearance (I'm 99%
sure that's all I need.
Of course I already installed the head gasket and torqued the head, so
toss in a new head gasket (I presume) for good measure. Unless someone can
convince me otherwise.
Regards,
rml
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Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489
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