That raises an interesting question.. Back when the cars were new.. What
was "allowed" (wink wink) for crank prep? Different alloys?
Nitriding/Tuftriding? Or just balance the factory piece and keep your
fingers crossed?
I'd always heard the small bearing crank was better for taking abuse (aka
high revs) than the later big bearing 1296 and 1500 cranks.
The only LBC crank I'd ever heard described as "bullet proof" is the Cooper
S crank, EN40B steel and nitrided from the factory.
Cheers,
Jim
Dallas
-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of michael cook
Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 8:38 PM
To: budscars@comcast.net; norlinengineering@comcast.net; fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Broken Cranks: Was - Any connection between these
problems?
When I purchased the Triumph competition Dept. Spitfire Mk 3 (1969 FP champ)
from Kas, he said "DON'T go more than six races without replacing the crank.
Being budget-minded, I went six races and decided "Just one more."
The crank broke at #3 in practice for the seventh race. I still have the rod
as a paperweight - it has a nice hump bend in the middle.
Mike Cook
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