Drop it in and have at it.
FWIW, here's my first startup procedure:
Put a big fan that some contractor left at your house in front of the
radiator. Hook up the timing light. Set a flat screwdriver for the
idle screw and wrenches for adjusting the timing where I can reach
them. Tape cardboard over the oil cooler.
Smear a lot of moly on the cam and lifter faces, set the valves about .
010 looser than spec, before the initial run, dump in some cheap oil
and some ZDDP, pump everything up to working pressure with a drill to
drive the oil pump. Push the accusump piston to the bottom, fill the
accusump with oil, put on the valve (closed) and pressurize it to 60
pounds. Put the dizzy back in, open the accusump and start the motor
when oil pressure start to drop. Once the engine starts I set the idle
to 2000 RPM, and set the timing. I watch everything, ready to shut
down if I need to. Let the water temp come up to normal, and if
possible, let the engine run until oil temperature comes up to normal
temperature. For me that's water at 190, oil over 200.
Let everything stabilize at 2000. Blip the throttle a few times to be
sure everything sounds right. Check fuel pressure, oil pressure and
look for leaks.
Shut down, dump the oil and look for metal or other nasties, pull the
oil filter and cut it open, look for crap. open the accusump, let
everything drain for half an hour or more.
If you're really feeling anal, do a leakdown of each cylinder and pull
the head to look at the cam and lifters.
Refill with a zillion bucks worth of your favorite racing oil.
Race.
On Jun 5, 2009, at 12:03 PM, Barr, Scott wrote:
> I've got half a case of SL-rated Castrol GTX 20w50 on the shelf. Did
> the oil manufacturers switch to the SM rating at the same time as the
> ZDDP content was dropped? I.e., what are the chances this oil has the
> proper ZDDP content?
>
> Scott ( who has some Redline ZDDP additive to drop in just to cover
> all
> the bases)
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