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Re: [Fot] (no subject)

To: Bill Bartlett <BillBartlett@wingnutracing.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] (no subject)
From: Scott Janzen <s.janzen@comcast.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 19:57:11 -0500
My GT6 came to me with a single cylinder master, which I did not feel  
comfortable with.  I bought a tilton bias bar and two Girling masters  
- originally got Tilton masters, but the integral reservoirs were a  
little too tall and interfered with the bonnet.  Fab'd a mounting  
assembly out of heavy gauge sheet metal, welded up, and had the Tilton  
bias tube grafted/welded on the top of the stock brake pedal.
I fiddled with the bias adjustment a bit, and have it so the fronts  
lock up a little before the rears.  I suppose if you were racing at  
the national level, wanted to adjust for changing fuel loads, wet/dry,  
etc, a cockpit adjustable bias might be good.  However - I'm not that  
good a driver, so close is good enough!
With dual masters, one thing you might want to think about is whether  
the front should be a larger bore- given that the pistons/cylinders in  
the calipers displace much more fluid than the rear wheel cylinders.


On Wed, 10 Feb 2010 21:58:29 -0500, Bill Bartlett
<BillBartlett@wingnutracing.com> wrote:
> Hi Gents,
> I am curious on  the difference between brake "Biasing" and brake
> "proportioning"?
> Given that one has a set up with twin masters, one each  for the front
and
> rear brake systems, is it better to use a bias adjustment cable from
the
> cockpit to adjust the amount of force given to the front and rear
brakes,
> or
> should one use a proportioning adjustment valve. The bias bar  
> appears to
> work
> by adjusting the amount of force the pedal excerpts on the two  
> masters,
> where
> the proportioning reduces the amount of hydraulic force excerpted thru
the
> rear brake line to the slaves.
> What is the deal? Does the Biasing do the heavy lifting and the
> proportioning
> the micro adjustment? I suppose one needs to start with the right  
> master
> bores
> to start with eh?
> My car has a bias bar but it is only adjustable by inserting different
> length
> bushings between the clevis and the spherical bearing at the top of  
> the
> peddle
> assembly. I am debating whether to upgrade to the Tilton adjustable
pedal
> set,
> put a proportioning valve in or just leave it alone and have different
> bushing
> sets for say wet and dry?
> Thoughts?
> And thank you for your time
> Bill
> PS; this is for a GT6
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