We use a pair of MG GT springs rated at 480#s at the front and it sets the
ride height nicely as I remember it. Several others have used these
springs....I think most have stayed with it.
Spax shocks at hard setting.
1.5-2.0 degree camber with modified upper A-Arms
0 - 1/32 Toe out
3/4" Goodparts swaybar.
We use no rear sway bar...and many others do not.
A simple low cost set up that seems effective for our purposes.
We tend to be more conservative on the costs....and need to be.
(Now we have two cars, three drivers, and one more driver at least, pending)
-----Original Message-----
From: Tony and Annie Garmey <horizonracing@msn.com>
To: deweerdm@rogers.com; fot@autox.team.net
Sent: Sat, Jul 31, 2010 11:32 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] Hard cornering
Live axle car: check the front Spring rates (4-500lbs is a good starting
oint),That the ride height is Lower than the rear( A arms are parallel to the
evel ground) That the sway bar is not seized in the pillar blocks (3/4-7/8
ia), are the shocks working the same ? and IMHO, the welded diff needs to
o.
he quick steer rack is worth the dollars spent and I've added a 1/2 rear sway
ar to help with turn in as the TR 4 is or does have a lazy turn in. I prefer
pointy or crisp turn in. Using Hoosier speedster tires & yok. 048's.
very car/driver has there own preference and only testing different
ars/springs/shocks will get you were you need to go... the way you want it.
cheers & good luck
ony
> Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2010 20:38:53 -0700
From: deweerdm@rogers.com
To: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Hard cornering
Hello list.
I'm looking for any advice on how to get my TR4 to corner better. It seems
o
under-steer immensely.
I am now in the process of changing front springs and shocks because as I
put heat into the tires, the car would dive down when I turn the wheel to
he
left twice as much as when I turn to the right.(so I figured the left
pring
to be weak). I have no idea of the age of the shocks or springs.
I find that when entering a tight turn the car will continue straight no
matter how much I turn the wheel and when the car slows down enough the
ront
will then turn quite quickly and I have to counter-steer (straighten) the
wheel. This makes turns seem jerky and unsafe to other racers.
I have a welded rear live axle. (which just broke in the last race) and I
noticed my "new" front Hoosiers are pretty much done after 4 races while
he
back still look new.
Now perhaps it's just me and I have to learn to drive slower into tight
urns
while the MGB's fly past me, or I need to look at something in the front
nd?
the car has 1/16 th to 1/8 toe in. the steering rack is tight, it has poly
bushing through out the front end
Any ideas would be appreciated, Thank you
Mike
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