For my part I do the re-torquing HOT.
After the initial run of about 10-20 min and water at 185F I torque to the
desired value.
At hot my experience is that you can turn each nut about a quarter turn
without loosen them before.
And the good thing is that the torque at temperature is more even then.
Cheers
Chris
-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von EDWARD BARNARD
Gesendet: Sonntag, 31. Oktober 2010 16:08
An: FOT
Betreff: [Fot] Head torquing
Lister's:
I have a question to pose to the list concerning re-torquing head
bolts/studs.
Please post your answers on the list for the other members to absorb.
We continue to have blown and leaking head gaskets on Bill Collin's 1300
Spitty. I don't want to muddy the water on the head gasket media to
use...just
the "proper" way to re-torque a head.
"We" know that it takes more torque to initially turn a bolt or nut. Once it
is turning the required torque to turn it drops. This phenomenon probably
has
a name which has escaped me in the thirty years since college.
In light of this, when re-torquing a head should you just set the torque
wrench to the desired torque and have at it, or should you loosen the
bolts/nuts and re-torque to spec?
I have wondered this every time I re-torque a head, and the torque wrench
"clicks" as soon as I start to turn the nut. Is the torque correct? Am I
under
torque?
Triumph even had 4 or 5 technical bulletins to address blown head gaskets on
the TR7; one of which stated you should loosen the bolts and re-torque to
spec.
I look forward to the answer we receive from the list of knowledge.
Thanks in advance.
-Ed-
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