While we're on the subject, for what it's worth --
A friend passed this on to me -- using a 1.5 ohm coil with with a _plastic_
rubbing block and no ballast resistor, the heat generated is enough to start
melting the rubbing block. If the rubbing block is fiber, there shouldn't be a
problem, but if it's plastic, there needs to be a ballast resistor or a higher
resistance coil.
Duncan
On Mar 14, 2011, at 10:08 PM, Greg & Alison Blake wrote:
> First off let me thank the folks that provided good feedback to my question
> regarding the car not wanting to rev. I am in the diagnostic phase and
this
> is what I have found so far:
>
>
>
> As a recap, I am running the Mallory dual point. Fresh points, rotor,
> condenser (grounded), and cap.
>
> The total dwell at 1100 rpm it is 40 and at 3500+ rpm it is 45. I assume
> that dwell should not change over the rpm range and this condition is
> indicative that something is wrong. I removed the cap and rotor and I can
> move the top of the shaft far enough back and forth (side to side) to cause
> the points to open and close. This distributor has 6 race weekends on it.
>
> Could the shaft have already worn the bushings? I've read that Mallory will
> not sell you replacement bushing or bearings as they want to rebuild the
> unit. Are there any alternative suggestions?
>
> Do you guys leave the felt rubbing block in place on the points? I have
> them in place now, but I don't remember seeing a Lucas point set that uses
> felt pads like that. Maybe they are a good thing.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Greg
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