Hi Joe,
I don't remember the exact alloy we (Jerry Barker and I) use, I'll have to
check through my records and report back. As others have said, they just have
to have proper clearance, which is looser than cast iron versions, IIRC. We
run very small diameter titanium valves which might be why we have no problems
(less surface area).
Chuck
On May 12, 2012, at 7:39 AM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4@cs.com> wrote:
> I think we all agree that bronze valve guides are good to use, if:
>
> they are properly clearanced...per Greg Solow, for instance.
>
> and if they have good material chemistry and properties.
>
> OK....CHUCK GEE or other metalurgist, what would you recommend for metal
> specification?
>
> I have seen some suspicious looking valve guides. Is there a supplier that
> anyone trusts?
>
> Being risk adverse, after a bad experience, we went back to oem type
material.
> But if we had control over the source.......
>
>
>
> Joe Alexander
> A. R. E.
> 645 1st Street
> Jesup, Iowa 50648
> 319.464.4711 (cell)
> n197tr4@cs.com
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Greg Solow <gregmogdoc@surfnetusa.com>
> To: Richard Taylor <tarch@bellsouth.net>; 'Tim Murphy'
> <timmurph@fastbytes.com>; 'Kas Kastner' <kaskas@cox.net>
> Cc: ryan.murphy <ryan.murphy@fdlco.wi.gov>; fot <fot@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sat, May 12, 2012 2:20 am
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 Valve spring - pressure, assembled height, suppliers
>
>
> Richard,
> I presume that by "intake" you mean total valve lift. .430" lift is
> quite a bit more than stock. I would use bronze guides and would try to
> obtain exhaust valves that have hard chromed or "plasma coated" stems. We
> use .0015" to .002" valve stem to guide clearance on the inlets & .002" to
> .0025" on the exhausts. Valve spring pressure with the valves closed should
> be 85 to 90 psi. You need to make sure that the spring you use do not go
> into "coil bind" at full valve lift. With the valve fully open, you must be
> able to stick a .040" feeler gauge in between the coils of the spring.
> We still "grind" all of our valve seats, and then lap them with fine
> compound to make sure we have a good seal. I guess we are "old school". We
> generally use seat widths of .040" on the exhaust & intake with hardened
> valve seats installed in the head in both intake and exhausts. I like to
> use 4 or more angles on the valve seats, 15, 30, 45, 60, & 75 degrees
nicely
> blended to form as much of a radius as possible. The hardness of the seats
> prevents the seats from wearing or "pounding" and changing shape as the
> engine runs. The most critical area in a head's ports is the 1/4" or so as
> the seat "blends" into the "throat" of the port. That area critically
> effects the flow of the port and the valve seat. This is not to say that
> other areas of the ports are not important. But on an engine with a cam
like
> yours, you could spend a lot of money and time for very little effect. The
> hotter the engine is, the more important the overall flow of the head and
> manifolds becomes. On a full race engine, ie cam with over 295 degrees
> duration, compression over 12: 1 and a power band going up to 7,000 rpm, a
> lot of power can be picked up by working on the exhaust port flow of the
> TR-4 .
>
> Greg Solow
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