Amateur chemists often have similar results.
One can only lead a horse to water; can't force him to drink it. Even if it
is for his own good. I repeat, "Choose wisely!"
Russ
-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Duncan Charlton
Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2013 12:35 AM
To: FOT of
Subject: Re: [Fot] VR-1 Oil
A friend poured a whole quart of what he called "straight ZDDP" into his
Morgan's freshly rebuilt TR engine. Seems it wasn't a good idea. He said,
"It coated everything in a golden syrup, bunged up the valves, coated the
pistons, crank, the works."
Duncan
On Apr 20, 2013, at 10:59 AM, Tim Pettenati wrote:
> I'm just finishing up a rebuild which included a reground cam and all
> new tappets. Previous Owner was running Castrol GTX, which apparently
> doesn't
work
> very well on a flat tappet race motor.
>
> I'm looking at a couple of quarts of
> VR-1. The 10W-30 is SM rated. The newer
> 20W-50 has no API circle but says "
> Exceeds SG/CD". An older quart of 20W-50 has an API SM circle. Seems
> to go along with the stories that Valvoline had recently bumped up the
> additive package.
>
> None have the EC ( Energy Conserving) logo, which I'm told should be
> avoided at all costs.
>
> Anyways, I'm breaking in using Joe Gibbs BR oil.
> Being overly cautious after
> all the horror stories about flat tappet damage, I just pulled the
> head after about 45 minutes of run time and so far all is well and is
> breaking in nicely.
> Cam and tappets were parkerized, tappets were hardness checked. Work
> was done by Dema Elgin. I spent some time visiting his shop in Santa
> Rosa, and it was an educational experience.
>
> Cheers,
> Tim
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Duncan Charlton
> <duncan.charlton54@gmail.com>
> To: FOT of <fot@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sat, April
> 20, 2013 8:14:35 AM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] VR-1 Oil
>
> Just to refresh my memory I
> had a look at some of the archived discussions on bobistheoilguy.com.
> It may not be news, but we shouldn't lose sight of the fact that it's
> not all about maximum ZDDP. Some consider 1800ppm to be the upper
> safe limit due to corrosion of some camshaft materials and that
> anything above 1500ppm after break-in is unnecessary. Mobile 1 racing
> oils have 1750ppm, VR1 conventional has 1300, B-P oils have 1300ppm,
> Redline race oils have 2500ppm, Rotella 15W40 has about 1300.
> Depending on what research one sees, an adequate level ought to be
> 1100-1500ppm. Aircraft mechanics point out that oil viscosity has
> something to do with cam lobe wear, too -- those who are flying
> non-certified engines are free to substitute oils, and wiped out lobes
> are usually traced back to low-weight oil, ZDDP or not (one mechanic
> mentioned that certified engines "don't use any ZDDP" but I haven't
> attempted to confirm that).
>
> Duncan
> (using Rotella 15W40)
> Texas
> 1952 Morgan Plus 4
> #6 red
>
> On Apr 20, 2013, at
> 6:40 AM, Bill Tobin wrote:
>
>> It's not always all about price.
>> Maybe you
> like the product. If we can save a few bucks and get our usual stuff,
> why not?
>> I agree with you about the costs of vintage racing, but if you have
>> had
> sucess in the past with a product, why not stick with it?
>> That's why there
> are many oils on the market. Choose the one you like.
>> Cheers, Bill
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