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Re: [Fot] TR6 PI question

To: "Tim Murphy" <timmurph@fastbytes.com>, "Enquiries Road & Track" <enquiries@roadandtrack.net.au>
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 PI question
From: Charly <charly@mitchelplumbing.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2014 22:14:09 -0500
Cc: FOT <fot@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: fot@autox.team.net
         BODY { font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12px; }
 All seems easy to me, but here are some manuals you might want to
look at.

        http://www.lucasinjection.com/MANUALS.htm [1]

        Charly Mitchel

         TR6 #44
        On Sun 10/08/14  4:23 PM , "Enquiries Road & Track"
enquiries@roadandtrack.net.au sent:
 quickly,,,,, several possible issues............
 1 injector has failed
 the 2 internal O rings in the metering unit have failed
 the shuttle has jammed at 1 end
 one or more check valves have failed
 if the injectors dont "pulse" nicely when pulled out, then the fault
could
 be either an injector or the metering unit
 whislt running, blank off the injector port with a rag or cork, and
gently
 pull open the pintle tit of the injector that is not spraying.
dribbles
 indicate its getting fuel but it could still have a failed outlet
valve or
 internal o ring. no fuel indicates metering unit internal fault
 sometimes, if its just dribbling a bit, you can solve this by gently
 pushing back the injector nozzle into the body, then tap the end
fitting
 where the nylon hose screws on. this can get them spraying again
 once removed, if the injector 'rattles" then it has internally
failed. most
 like the circlip has fallen off and the O ring has shrunk. both
easily
 solved
 here are the simplistic 'repair instructions" for the metering unit
 take the complete metering unit off car with engine at TDC as per
repair
 manual
 dont lose the plastic drive dog
 check it rotates freely by moving the tang where the plastic drive
dog goes
 check then remove all injector pipes.. they are stamped 1-6 at
injector end
 remove 4 outlet valves and 2 outlet banjo valves (18 & 19mm ring
spanners).
 if the rubber 'bung seals' come out with them, they have shrunk and
need
 replacing. if not, pick them out with a suitable bent-end picker.
dont use
 a screwdriver or large tool, and dont scratch their inside faces
  remove the vacuum control unit from metering distributor and put it
aside
 (dont disassemble)
 check the fuel diaphragm is not split. hold it up to the light and
pull
 gently looking for splits
 tip the distribution unit on its 4-bolt end and check the shuttle pin
falls
 out freely  if the inner barrel falls out as an assembly, the
internal O
 rings are stuffed
 test each outlet valve you take out by sucking on its inside 'tit". a
 perfect one will hold on your tongue for ages. if it wont  seal at
all by
 sucking, the flap valve inside it is stuffed and they need repair or
 replacement
 wash everything in white spirits/kero
 replace the 2 internal o rings with Viton versions (readily
available) and
 a tiny smear of rubber grease
 refit the barrel without bung seals
 align the barrel then fit new/good bung seals with a tiny smear of
rubber
 grease, pressing them home with a flat ended dowel or similar (care,
no
 swarf gets in)
 refit 4 outlet vales with new O rings or dowty washers (depending on
 model--both readily available)
 refit the metering shuttle without any grease/oil and check it moves
freely.
 refit the control assembly taking care not to damage the diaphragm
 test the control unit diaphragm is not leaking
 refit and drive away happy
 Terry
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