In the event you have a need, Chris just sent me another 20 kits of the Viton
Seal assembly.
If you have not machined the scroll off of the crankshaft, this is the new
standard in seal replacement for the wet sleeve engine.
Joe Alexander
645 1st Street
Jesup, IA 50648
The-vintage-racer.com
Gasketinnovations.com
Cell: 319.464.4711
> On Nov 30, 2014, at 3:55 AM, MadMarx <tr4racing@googlemail.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Rick,
>
> the gap between the seal and the flange is designed to have a minimum
> distance of 1mm (=0.4"). In most cases you have a little more distance.
> This 1mm is the safety to deal with crank movement when depressing the
> clutch.
>
> Please make sure that the flywheel bolts don't protrude through the flange.
>
> It is important to use a good sealer, like silicone.
> I had on my race a seal slipping out and was then scrambled by the crank
> flange. Since then I recommended to use silicone to hold the seal in place.
> Back pressure in the block can force it out after a while if no sealer is
> used.
> Maybe only an issue on race cars and not so much on road cars.
>
> Cheers
> Chris
>
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Steve Yott
> Gesendet: Sonntag, 30. November 2014 03:45
> An: 'Rich'; fot@autox.team.net
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Viton Rear Seal ?s
>
> Rich,
> I have installed a number of these and feel that if you are measuring only
> .020" that the seal may have crept during the install process. This is
easy
> to have happen since there is a lot going on during the setting of the
> crank. First question would be, did you machine your own aluminum scroll
> seal for the Marx seal or did you purchase the kit? I know that the parts
> provided in the kit are machined properly and that machining your own can
> give inconsistent results. I machine my own since I built a fixture to
hold
> the seal halves on the mill before the kit was available.
>
> What I do after getting the crankshaft in place and the bearing caps
> installed is take two medium screw drivers and work the seal gently into
the
> scroll shell. When I feel it is fully seated I leave it alone until the
> sealer/glue sets a little so the seal does not creep out. I normally end
up
> with about a 1/16" between the crank flange and the face of the seal.
>
> Now the most important part is to make sure that your flywheel bolts will
> NOT EXTEND PAST THE INNER FACE OF THE CRANK FLANGE!!!!! Too many people
> have shredded the seals by using too long of a bolt. Measure this twice to
> ensure the bolts end up at the proper length.
>
> It is a great seal setup and works far better than the standard scroll or
> Rover lip seal type of process. The best of both worlds!
>
> Steve Yott
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rich
> Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2014 5:16 PM
> To: fot@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Viton Rear Seal ?s
>
> For those who have done this before, what clearance do you end up with
> between the seal and the crank flange?
>
> I'm getting around .020" which seems too little to me?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rich Rock
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