Tony,
Thanks for the heads up.
Jack
-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Drews [mailto:tony@tonydrews.com]
Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2016 9:09 AM
To: Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@Live.com>; fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3 front end conversion to TR6 parts: Camber - moving
the ball joint inward
That will work to adjust the camber - after a bit of adjustment the a-arm
will hit the wheel and you'll need to shorten the outer end though.
Regards, Tony
At 12:34 AM 5/21/2016, Jack Brooks wrote:
>Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
> boundary="----=_NextPart_000_004A_01D1B2E7.BE06EF10"
>Content-Language: en-us
>
>I am hoping to upgrade the front suspension on my (street/AutoX) TR3
>this summer by changing out the upper A-arm, vertical link and trunnion
>to TR6 parts. I will use "the" Jag ball joint and shim it as required.
>Due to the complexity of shortening the upper A-arm or moving the inner
>pivot point inward, I am considering welding an extension to the upper
>A-Arm ball joint mounting tabs on the inside to mount the ball joint
>further inward and produce a similar result to shortening the A-arm. I
>have not removed my TR3 A-Arms yet, but it appears there is room to
>move the ball joint inward at least an inch in this way. I know I
>can't go as far as those of you who have shortened the upper arms, but
>it seems like it could be a decent compromise. I am concerned though,
>as this seems too easy. None of you guys have done it. Instead you
>have shortening the upper arms which, from what I have read, is
>challenging, as is moving the inner pivot point and retaining
>substantial structure.
>
>So, the question is. . . . . . . Why is simply moving the ball joint
>further inboard not a good solution? What am I missing?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Jack
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