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Re: [Fot] TR4 Block work suggestions

To: STEPHEN BOROWSKI <biznzman@pacbell.net>, John Styduhar <johnstydo@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 Block work suggestions
From: "R. John Lye" <rjl@gt-classics.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2016 09:55:29 -0400
Cc: FOT List <fot@autox.team.net>
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I would also add to paint the inside of the block with
Glyptal (now apparently an Eastwood product:
http://www.eastwood.com/glyptal-red-enamel-set.html). 
This helps seal the block and gets the oil to drain
back to the sump a little more quickly. 
=C2=A0
John

On Tue, 28 Jun 2016 08:37:26 -0400, John Styduhar  wrote:

       I also have the center plug hole on the main oil galley tapped 
to install an NPT adapter for the oil line from my accumulator.=C2=A0
Have the shop check the alignment of the mains and line hone if necessary. 
Machine the center main cap to install a reinforcing strap. 
Bottom tap all head stud holes. 
Remove and tap the front and rear main oil galley plugs for flush-fit 
NPT fittings. Have this done on the cylinder head cooling plug. 
Remove the crank scroll and install a rear main seal conversion. Do not 
use Indian Head Shellac on the felt seals. 
Grind unnecessary casting material from the inside and outside of the 
block, particularly in the cooling areas.=C2=A0
If needed, clean up the mating surfaces for the liner gaskets.=C2=A0
=C2=A0

On Mon, Jun 27, 2016 at 4:13 PM, STEPHEN BOROWSKI  wrote:

       Hello All,
I disassembled my TR4 race car engine this past week. Last time I 
rebuilt it was 1987. Last time I raced it was 1988. Probably had five 
or six race weekends=C2=A0on the engine but its been sitting for almost 
twenty years!=C2=A0It is amazing everything looks very good. Rod and Main 
bearings show minimal ware and the same with the pistons and liners. G3 
cam and followers including head and valves all look good. Cam bearings 
look questionable... 
=C2=A0
So I plan on installing new cam bearings, Rods & Mains. Any suggestions 
as to what brand and where to buy them?
I will deck the block. Any suggestions as to other machining I should 
do to the block?
=C2=A0
The crank looks fine but I haven't measured it yet. What clearances 
should I run?
I do plan on balancing and polishing it. 
=C2=A0
Thanks for any input. 
=C2=A0
Steve and son Matthew
Florida TR4
=C2=A0
=C2=A0
=C2=A0
=C2=A0

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--
Thanks,
John

rjl@gt-classics.com
=C2=A0


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<p>I would also add to paint the inside of the block with</p>
<p>Glyptal (now apparently an Eastwood product:</p>
<p>http://www.eastwood.com/glyptal-red-enamel-set.html).</p>
<p>This helps seal the block and gets the oil to drain</p>
<p>back to the sump a little more quickly.</p>
<p>=C2=A0</p>
<p>John<br><br>On Tue, 28 Jun 2016 08:37:26 -0400, John Styduhar
&lt;johnstydo@gmail.com&gt; wrote:</p>
<blockquote style=3D"border-left: 2px solid #000000; padding-right: 0px;
padding-left: 5px; margin-left: 5px; margin-right: 0px;">
<div id=3D"html-message">
<div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size: small;">I also have the ce=
nter plug
hole on the main oil galley tapped to install an NPT adapter for the oil li=
ne
from my accumulator.=C2=A0</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size: small;">Have the shop chec=
k the
alignment of the mains and line hone if necessary.</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size: small;">Machine the center=
 main cap
to install a reinforcing strap.</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size: small;">Bottom tap all hea=
d stud
holes.</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size: small;">Remove and tap the=
 front
and rear main oil galley plugs for flush-fit NPT fittings. Have this done o=
n the
cylinder head cooling plug.</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size: small;">Remove the crank s=
croll and
install a rear main seal conversion. Do not use Indian Head Shellac on the =
felt
seals.</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size: small;">Grind unnecessary =
casting
material from the inside and outside of the block, particularly in the cool=
ing
areas.=C2=A0</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size: small;">If needed, clean u=
p the
mating surfaces for the liner gaskets.=C2=A0</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size: small;">=C2=A0</div>
</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Mon, Jun 27, 2=
016 at
4:13 PM, STEPHEN BOROWSKI <span>&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:biznzman@pacbell.net"=
 target=3D"_blank">biznzman@pacbell.net</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquot=
e class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin: 0 0 0 .8ex; border-left: 1px #ccc =
solid;
padding-left: 1ex;">
<div>
<div style=3D"color: #000; background-color: #fff; font-family:
HelveticaNeue,Helvetica Neue,Helvetica,Arial,Lucida Grande,sans-serif;
font-size: 12px;">
<div>Hello All,</div>
<div>I disassembled my TR4 race car engine this past week. Last time I
rebuilt it was 1987. Last time I raced it was 1988. Probably had five or si=
x
race weekends=C2=A0on the engine but its been sitting for almost twenty yea=
rs!=C2=A0It
is amazing everything looks very good. Rod and Main bearings show minimal w=
are
and the same with the pistons and liners. G3 cam and followers including he=
ad
and valves all look good. Cam bearings look questionable...</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>So I plan on installing new cam bearings, Rods &amp; Mains. Any
suggestions as to what brand and where to buy them?</div>
<div>I will deck the block. Any suggestions as to other machining I
should do to the block?</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>The crank looks fine but I haven't measured it yet. What
clearances should I run?</div>
<div>I do plan on balancing and polishing it.</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>Thanks for any input.</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>Steve and son Matthew</div>
<div>Florida TR4</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
</div>
</div>
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</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
</div>
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</blockquote>
<p><br><br></p>
<p><br> --<br>Thanks,<br> John<br><br><br> rjl@gt-classics.com</p>
<p>=C2=A0</p>

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