Wonderful feedback. Thanks everyone.
I have concluded that the most likely cause of my problems are low OD fluid
levels and/or inadequate opening of the actuating valve. Both I can readily
deal with.
Right now I am five thousand miles away from my Healey so it will be a couple
of months before I can confirm a fix.
_____________________
Neil McDonald
Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com
Sent from my IPhone
> On Jan 3, 2017, at 2:03 PM, michael.salter at gmail.com wrote:
>
> Yes Neil, David is referring to the pump non return valve however if you are
> able to confirm that you have 390 p.s.i. in the overdrive that valve is not
> in need of checking.
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>
> Correct diagnosis is half of the repair.
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jan 2, 2017 at 9:02 PM -0500, "Neil McDonald" <nmcd10 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> By referencing the check valve on the side of the pump, David Nock has taken
>> me into new and uncharted territory!
>>
>> I assume this valve is totally different from the ball lifted by the OD
>> actuating lever? The mystery deepens with the reference to multiple balls
>> and the need to ensure that they are in the right way.
>>
>> More help on this please.
>> _____________________
>> Neil McDonald
>>
>> Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com
>>
>>
>>> On 2 Jan 2017, at 23:31, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <YNOTINK at msn.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> If the OD engages when cold, but disengages when it warms up your problem
>>> could be with leakage through the o-rings that seal the accumulator body to
>>> the housing. It's an easy fix, but removing the accumulator body is
>>> somewhat of a trick. I was advised to remove the side plate and the
>>> accumulator springs, place a dowel in the center of the accumulator piston
>>> to keep it from moving and apply air pressure through the actuator valve
>>> hole (after removing the valve and ball). The accumulator body is the large
>>> sleeve in which the accumulator piston resides.
>>>
>>>
>>> Bill Lawrence
>>>
>>>
>>> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell
>>> <bspidell at comcast.net>
>>> Sent: Monday, January 2, 2017 9:11:48 PM
>>> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive
>>>
>>> The OD and gearbox share fluid supply. Take the car out for a run to
>>> get the fluid warmed-up, then get it up on a rack--preferably--or SAFELY
>>> on jackstands, as high as they'll go. There is a dipstick on top of the
>>> gearbox; check your fluid level before emptying--if it's low that could
>>> be at least part of your problem. There is a drain plug on the bottom
>>> left side of the gearbox, and a big brass disk on the OD. Older cars
>>> had a sensible square 'nut' on the OD plug, which can be turned with a
>>> big crescent wrench, and newer ones have a notched disk that requires a
>>> tool to be undone properly, but you can use a brass punch and hammer or
>>> other method. When you drop the brass plug, there should be a
>>> cup-shaped screen and, possibly, a couple of soft, circular magnets.
>>>
>>> Let the fluid drain completely, then re-install the gearbox and OD
>>> plugs, being sure to a) place the magnets inside the plug and b) place
>>> the screen on top of the magnets. It's difficult to stop leakage from
>>> the OD plug; use a new fiber washer and, possibly, some teflon tape on
>>> the threads of the plug (being careful to not get any inside the OD).
>>> Top off with the fluid of your choice--'book' is 30W non-detergent, but
>>> most motor (20W-50) and synthetic gearbox oils work well--checking the
>>> level often with the dipstick. Should take about 3.75 quarts.
>>>
>>> Don't know how you 'persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine,'
>>> but my money's on the electrics--esp. the relay.
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>>
>>> On 1/2/2017 10:56 AM, Neil McDonald wrote:
>>> > One of my New Years resolutions, before I put the car back on the road
>>> > after sitting in the garage for several years, is to fix the overdrive so
>>> > the car is comfortable highway driving. It once (and once only) went into
>>> > OD once very briefly - which suggests that nothing mechanical is broken.
>>> >
>>> > So far I have persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine and there
>>> > is adequate hydraulic pressure - around 390 psi if I recall correctly. I
>>> > have also checked the hydraulic valve adjustment using the "drill through
>>> > the actuating lever" method but not the direct "is the valve ball
>>> > lifting by at least 1/32 inch when the solenoid is actuated?" method.
>>> >
>>> > Somewhere I read that there is a small passage around the hydraulic valve
>>> > area which can get blocked and thus needs cleaning out with a wire. Is
>>> > there an internet link elaborating on this?
>>> >
>>> > Online research also suggests that I should change out the OD fluid which
>>> > is certainly old and a significant amount could have leaked out. I assume
>>> > that the gear box has a drain and filler plug but have yet to find them.
>>> > Should I refill to just short of overflowing or ......?
>>> >
>>> > I don't have the resources to pull and strip the OD myself so am hoping
>>> > that I can get it working without hiring a professional. Does anyone have
>>> > any words of wisdom and/or comfort?
>>> > _____________________
>>> > Neil McDonald
>>> >
>>> > Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>>
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