From "Alan Tadd" <alantadd at hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 01 May 2002 07:52:36 +0000
Subject: Re: Accelerator cables
While in the process of doing a left to right hand conversion, my local
Healey mechanic (Mike Butler, from Butler & Rudd, for Aussies the of us),
has suggested converting the accelerator linkages from the solid arm and
lever type to a cable. As shown on the MGs. He would make up the two cable
wheels etc. so that the cable crosses over the rocker cover.
Has any one seen this on Healeys before and experienced the "feel" of a
cable.
The advantages I have been informed are:
a) Ease of assembly, as the linking of the arms is a pig on the conversion
b) Better response on acceleration (no linkage movement)
c) No more wearing of the felt bushes on the linkages
Any comments? Much appreciated.
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 07:22:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Model Car "Healey"
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Endicott <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: Big Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, April 30, 2002 10:09 PM
Subject: Re: Model Car "Healey"
>Tom,
>
>It sounds like a Sebring! Probably Ken's car....
>
>Mark
>Nashville
>BN1
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Tuesday, April 30, 2002 7:10 PM
>Subject: Model Car "Healey"
>
>
>Was at an antique store recently and found a green, plastic (about the size
>of the Barbie Healey) car that is distinctly Healey (profile and rear 1/2).
>The trunk has a continental tire mounted on it--the bonnet has louvers at
>the front--the grill isn't really a Healey grill and above the front of
each
>front wing is a "dart".
>
>The word "sportster" is imbedded across the rear of the bonnet and the
front
>and rear license plates have the number 891 on them. It has black wire
>wheels and tires.
>
>What kind of a hybrid do I have here? Anyone ever see one like this?
>
>tom
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 08:05:25 -0400
Subject: Distributor device
Thanks!
Alex in Maine
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Wed, 01 May 2002 06:11:14 -0700
Subject: Re: AH refrigerator magnets wanted
bk
------------------------
At 01:39 PM 4/30/2002, you wrote:
>Someone had some AH magnets for sale once upon a time. Can they contact me
>so I can get some more?
>Ken Freese
>65 BJ8
From J & L Armour <sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au>
Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 11:23:22 +0000
Subject: Accelerator cables
Joe
mustard one
blue one
red one
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 08:55:12 -0700
Subject: Re: Distributor device
I had the same hopes (an outside the unit timing adjustment--I even had a
non-healey mechanic tell me it must be a dwell adjuster) but no such luck.
I don't know what grease is recommended or what the recommended spring
pressure is but lubrication is what it does.
Jim '62 BT7 TriCarb
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex" <alexmm@adelphia.net>
To: "Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2002 5:05 AM
Subject: Distributor device
> The distributor fitted to my 1960 BT7 seems a bit different than that
which
> I remember on my 1967 BJ8. Can anyone tell me what the little
chrome-plated
> or polished steel threaded nut is for on the left side of the unit (as one
> faces the engine block from the RHG side of the car)? At first I thought
it
> was the micrometric advance knob, but this is on the vacuum advance shaft,
> as it should be. Is it for lubrication purposes, or access?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Alex in Maine
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 11:18:41 -0500
Subject: Ram Air Stacks for 2" Carbs
From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 09:55:04 -0700
Subject: Horn Restoration for 1960 BT7
From John Schaible <jaschaible at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 09:56:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Clamp On Mirror
From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
Date: Wed, 01 May 2002 12:57:35 -0400
Subject: Coil question
Thanks in advance.
Jim D 60 BT7 2167
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 10:43:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Push rod and lifter problems - Resolved!
Last week I picked up and installed a new set of
pushrods from Isky Cams in Gardena, CA.
http://www.iskycams.com/index.html
These look like qualilty parts with properly machined
ends and hollow chromoly(sp) tubes. They must be 30%
lighter and were 40% less expensive then Moss. What a
difference from the Moss/AHSpares forged pushrods.
To Moss's credit they pulled their supply of pushrods
and lifters from inventory until they complete their
analysis.
Lesson here is to beware of replacement parts and
measure twice...
Hope this helps anyone in the throws of a rebuild.
Dean BN7
Tahoe, Tahoe, Tahoe...
From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
Date: Wed, 01 May 2002 13:55:35 -0400
Subject: New twist, problem solved.
I can't get much older I
hope for time to get wiser.
Jim D
from Moss looked more like the 6-cyl rods, although they were supplied
Date: Wed, 01 May 2002 12:54:55 -0700
Subject: Re: Push rod and lifter problems - Resolved!
(original 4 cyl pushrods are hollow, too, by the way)
Ah, precision!
-Roland
BN1, BJ7
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 17:00:17 EDT
Subject: strange emails
Michael Oritt
From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
Date: Wed, 01 May 2002 14:59:00 -0700
Subject: Re: Coil question
In a positive earth car, the (+) or (CB) terminal on the coil goes to the
distributor.
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
From "Reinhart Rosner" <reinhart.rosner at magnet.at>
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 00:20:24 +0200
Subject: Re: trafficator and horn push Fix
Reinhart Rosner
55 AH 100 BN 1
PS: John, sorry for not coming to Tahoe, but it is a bit too far from
Austria, which is in the centre of Europe. But have a lot of fun there!
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Wed, 01 May 2002 15:14:00 -0700
Subject: Re: strange emails
bk
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 17:25:17 -0500
Subject: Re: strange emails
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 18:54:43 -0400
Subject: Re:Stator Tube
Regards,
Doug
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 09:43:21 -0700
Subject: Re: Options at Purchase?
The Roth document lists the same info as above, but adds $65 for
transportation, and indicates that a 1961 Triumph TR-3A, Serial number 1948E
was traded in on this car.
By the way, if anyone out there knows where this BJ8 is, the original owner
would very much like to find it.
An invoice from Hughes Motor Company, 1290 Thompson Blvd., Ventura, CA dated
8-19-64 for HBJ8L/26592 does not identify any optional equipment or
accessories. Price of the car was $3904.00, sales tax, license and title
brought the bottom line to $4095.16.
One more.....
Gracia's Foreign Car Motors, 2359 Purchase Street, New Bedford, MA sold
HBJ8L/27621 on 12 August 1964 for $3720.00. Cash on delivery was $2600.00,
and a '60 BT7 (HBT7L/6537) was traded in, valued at $1120.00. No optional
equipment or accessories are identified.
I could go on, by popular demand.....
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
From Russ Staub <bbb11489 at azboss.net>
Date: Wed, 01 May 2002 16:56:50 -0700
Subject: Fuel Tanks
While rebuilding/refurbishing my fuel system, I had to take my original,
35 year old BJ8 fuel tank to a radiator shop for cleaning/flushing
before re-assembly. The cleaning did just what it was supposed to do,
removed all dirt, debris, rust, etc. Unfortunately, upon reassembling
and refilling the tank, I now had a pinhole leak in the bottom. Turns
out, much of the bottom of the tank was rusty, and the cleaning process
completed the job. $68 out the window!
I bought a new tank from one of the major suppliers, and, although it
looked pretty similar, it had a few problems.
1. It was dented and had a wrinkled appearance near the sender hole. I
don't think it was really flat around the hole, and probably would be
difficult to get sealed.
2. The center of the threaded fuel output connector was about 0.3"
higher above the tank top than the original, and it was canted at about
15 degrees downwards from the top of the tank, instead of parallel as
the original was. This would require some relocation of the fuel line
connector to make it mate properly.
3. The fuel intake pipe was about 1/2" longer than the original, and
does not appear as though it would fit under the filler pipe without
shortening.
Question- Is that what I should expect, or has anyone on the list
replaced their fuel tank recently with better results than this? If so,
where did you purchase it? For the price they cost, I expected a
relatively easy, properly manufactured, bolt-on tank.
FWIW, I checked with a gas tank builder, who did not recommend trying to
cut out the rusty section and weld in a new bottom (probably too much
warping would occur). He could build me another tank, but it would have
significant differences from the original and would still have the
possiblity of not fitting as well as the original. Also, I'm not too
thrilled with the epoxy sealing method.
Any suggestions, recommendations? Sure hope I can get Horace smiling
for Tahoe.
TIA,
Russ Staub
'56 BN2
'67 BJ8
Phoenix, AZ
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 20:54:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Clamp On Mirror
tom
From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 00:56:59 +0000
Subject: Re: Distributor device
Mark Fawcett
> It controls spring pressure on a greased felt pad that lubes the shaft.
>
> I had the same hopes (an outside the unit timing adjustment--I even had a
> non-healey mechanic tell me it must be a dwell adjuster) but no such luck.
>
> I don't know what grease is recommended or what the recommended spring
> pressure is but lubrication is what it does.
>
> Jim '62 BT7 TriCarb
From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
Date: Wed, 01 May 2002 18:24:19 +0000
Subject: Re: Ram Air Stacks for 2" Carbs
Hi Jack-
If you want to have some fun, do the following.
Buy some 1/8" thick plastic sheet at a hardware store. Trace the front
face of one of your 2" SU's on to it and cut it out with a hole saw.
This will be the mounting face for your JBrashear Ram Stack, or The
JackStack for short.
Then go to your local five and dime store and buy some plastic drinking
cups with a 2" base. Mine were about 3" tall. Cut off the bottoms, drill
1/16" holes every 1/2" in the cup near the base and the mounting face
as anchor points for epoxy. Then get your favorite epoxy and epoxy the
cup to the base. Spray paint them silver. You can even drape some filter
material over the end and anchor it with a big O ring or rubber band.
I did this about 20 years ago when I installed 2" SU's and I have been
ramin' and jivin' ever since!
Go Go Ramin' JackStack!
Rich
BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 18:07:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Options at Purchase?
Just to put the price of replacement parts into
perspective, $45.00 for that tonneau in 1964 is about
equal to $588.00 in today's dollars - now that's what
I call dealer markup.
Dean BN7
--- Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net> wrote:
> Preserved in the BJ8 Registry, I have a copy of an
> ($3,635.00) and Accessories: tonneau ($45.00), w/w
> tires ($35.00). Total
> suggested P.O.E. price: $3,715.00
> I could go on, by popular demand.....
Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
http://health.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
Date: Wed, 01 May 2002 18:20:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Coil question
Just wet through all this while working on another car:
CB is +
SW is -
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "James B Dalglish" <leaker@exit109.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2002 9:57 AM
Subject: Coil question
Regarding my positive earth BT7. I have several spare coils, some are
marked cb and sw. The Lucas coils are marked + and -. Can anyone clear
up which wires go where.
Thanks in advance.
Jim D 60 BT7 2167
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Heard" <heard at datatrontech.net>
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 21:33:26 -0400
Subject: Parts washer
Anyone have any thoughts on the best parts washer fluid to use? It looks
like there are a lot of folks claiming to have the best with prices to prove
it.
Thanks,
Heard Saxon
60BT7 the only Healey in
Enterprise, FL
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 20:28:31 -0500
Subject: Door Chrome
I have the clips on the outter window rubber and it fits nicely... but I'm
trying to sort out the actual positioning of the chrome itself in relation
to the slot on the back of the door. Before I installed the clips I had
the chrome sitting in the slot and it all looked perfect.
once I'd installed the clips it looks like the chrome wants to sit on the
outside of the slot to make the back two clips install down on the doors
sheet metal.
Anyone have any thoughts?
Keith
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Wed, 01 May 2002 19:18:15 -0700
Subject: Need radiator re-core advise
TIA
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Grotenhuis <grotenhuis at attbi.com>
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 22:26:31 -0700
Subject: RE: Accelerator cables
While in the process of doing a left to right hand conversion, my local
Healey mechanic (Mike Butler, from Butler & Rudd, for Aussies the of us),
has suggested converting the accelerator linkages from the solid arm and
lever type to a cable. As shown on the MGs. He would make up the two cable
wheels etc. so that the cable crosses over the rocker cover.
Has any one seen this on Healeys before and experienced the "feel" of a
cable.
The advantages I have been informed are:
a) Ease of assembly, as the linking of the arms is a pig on the conversion
b) Better response on acceleration (no linkage movement)
c) No more wearing of the felt bushes on the linkages
Any comments? Much appreciated.
************************************************************************
*****
This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and
intended for use by the Addressee only. The confidential nature
of the information contained in the email and/or file is not waived,
lost or destroyed if it is sent in error to other than the Addressee.
Use or dissemination of the information contained in the email
and/or files by a recipient other than the Addressee may cause
commercial damage to both/either the Sender and/or Addressee.
If you are not the Addressee of this email/files please immediately
contact the Sender and delete this email/files.
************************************************************************
*****
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 21:36:59 -0500
Subject: Frozen Burrito? ( no LBC )
Anyone seen that dang Frozen burrito I had about an hour ago.... I've
looked high and low... and haven't found it yet.... I suppose stranger
things been lost in a Healey... Like Geoff's wedding Fish.... but I was
sorta hungry and that thing looked aweful good.... now I'm wore out looking
and think I'll just go to bed...
Keith ( why no I don't have a clue... now that you mention it... But if you
find that thing I'll split it with you )
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 21:49:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Parts washer
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 23:01:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Ram Air Stacks for 2" Carbs
GM
----- Original Message -----
> If you want to have some fun, do the following.
> Buy some 1/8" thick plastic sheet at a hardware store. Trace the
front......
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 01 May 2002 21:17:49 -0600
Subject: battery access door rivets
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 00:06:26 EDT
Subject: Re: battery access door rivets
<< Can anyone tell me what the rivets should look like that hold the tie down
straps onto the battery access door on a BN2? Would they be the same rivets
that hold the wood to the seat back? >>
Ward,
No, they're not the same. The rivets on the battery access door tie down
straps are tube rivets vs. split rivets on the seat backs, the rivet head is
about twice as large and they are finished in black.
I don't know for certain who has them available since I got mine some years
ago but you might want to try British Car Specialists in Stockton, CA or
Martin MacGregor in Canada.
Curt
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 02:13:17 -0400
Subject: RE: Fuel Tanks
We used to be able to get much better quality tanks which were made in
the U.K. by, I believe, the original manufacturer. Unfortunately these
were somewhat more expensive than the inferior reproduction type that
you describe and, as I understand it from our supplier, have now been
discontinued due to poor sales.
I believe a Mr. John Ruskin had some comment on this!
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Russ Staub
Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2002 7:57 PM
To: HEALEY LIST
Subject: Fuel Tanks
Hi all,
While rebuilding/refurbishing my fuel system, I had to take my original,
35 year old BJ8 fuel tank to a radiator shop for cleaning/flushing
before re-assembly. The cleaning did just what it was supposed to do,
removed all dirt, debris, rust, etc. Unfortunately, upon reassembling
and refilling the tank, I now had a pinhole leak in the bottom. Turns
out, much of the bottom of the tank was rusty, and the cleaning process
completed the job. $68 out the window!
I bought a new tank from one of the major suppliers, and, although it
looked pretty similar, it had a few problems.
1. It was dented and had a wrinkled appearance near the sender hole. I
don't think it was really flat around the hole, and probably would be
difficult to get sealed.
2. The center of the threaded fuel output connector was about 0.3"
higher above the tank top than the original, and it was canted at about
15 degrees downwards from the top of the tank, instead of parallel as
the original was. This would require some relocation of the fuel line
connector to make it mate properly.
3. The fuel intake pipe was about 1/2" longer than the original, and
does not appear as though it would fit under the filler pipe without
shortening.
Question- Is that what I should expect, or has anyone on the list
replaced their fuel tank recently with better results than this? If so,
where did you purchase it? For the price they cost, I expected a
relatively easy, properly manufactured, bolt-on tank.
FWIW, I checked with a gas tank builder, who did not recommend trying to
cut out the rusty section and weld in a new bottom (probably too much
warping would occur). He could build me another tank, but it would have
significant differences from the original and would still have the
possiblity of not fitting as well as the original. Also, I'm not too
thrilled with the epoxy sealing method.
Any suggestions, recommendations? Sure hope I can get Horace smiling
for Tahoe.
TIA,
Russ Staub
'56 BN2
'67 BJ8
Phoenix, AZ
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 09:09:10 +0100
Subject: Non-Healey: What's this "Urgent message, from eBay Safe Harbor
I think this is a scam. any of you receiving this might like to think
twice before responding.
Anyone know the facts on this one?
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 19:06:03 +1000
Subject: Re: Accelerator cables
Some bloke is selling a photograph of your 'red one' on Ebay!!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1825960330
I've got a few pics of your red one and your blue one - but they weren't
taken in France like this one.
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "J & L Armour" <sebring@illawarra.hotkey.net.au>
> Graham,
> Geoff Healey fitted the cable to operate my Healeys carbs.as original
> equip at DHMCo.
<SNIP>
> Joe
>
> mustard one
> blue one
> red one
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 06:39:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Fuel Tanks
> the inferior reproduction type
I happened to pick up a flyer at a show last weekend for an outfit called
"Gas Tank Renu USA" that claims to be able to repair "virtually any tank"
with their "patented process" and gives a lifetime nationwide warranty (not
sure whose lifetime), so they must be a chain. Has anyone used this or a
similar service?
Michael Oritt , 100 LeMans
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 20:42:44 +1000
Subject: Re: Non-Healey: What's this "Urgent message, from eBay Safe
This was at the bottom of a (legitimate) eBay email I received today:
"Remember: eBay will not ask you for sensitive personal information (such as
your password, credit card and bank account numbers, etc.) in an email.
Copyright 1995-2001 eBay Inc. All Rights Reserved. Designated trademarks and
brands are the property of their respective owners."
I'd forward the scam email to safeharbor@ebay.com. and to
privacy@ebay.com.
This is an interesting read:
"Please update your information!" According to the body of the email, the
user's eBay information is "marked (flagged) as incorrect and/or
(fraudulent)." The email then instructs the recipient to update their eBay
billing file by clicking on a URL that points to a fake eBay site.
The URL points to an IP number that has a bogus verification page. Although
the page looks like it's part of the eBay Site, and asks for personal
information including a credit card number, the fraudulent page is, in fact,
set up on a Web Hosting service called Alabanza.com. To help make the page
look authentic, links on the bogus page point to legitimate eBay pages."
Whole story is here:
http://www.auctionbytes.com/pages/abn/y02/m02/i12/s01
Alan - trust me - it looks like a scam, and it smells like a scam. Report
it.
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan F Cross" <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 02, 2002 6:09 PM
Subject: Non-Healey: What's this "Urgent message, from eBay Safe Harbor !"?
> I've received several emails headed "Urgent message, from eBay Safe
> Harbor !", purporting to be from eBay and requesting an unbelievable
> amount of personal information "to stay registered". I was directed to
> http://64.177.3.234
>
> I think this is a scam. any of you receiving this might like to think
> twice before responding.
>
> Anyone know the facts on this one?
> --
> Alan Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 06:47:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Need radiator re-core advise
> From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
>
> Looking for recommendations for a radiator shop in the greater San
> Francisco area. I'm also wondering what's a reasonable cost to get the job
> done?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 10:07:00 -0400
Subject: My Healey progress
Currently I am working on engine assembly, and so far it is going well. I
ordered some cylinder head studs from ARP fasteners since the old ones looked a
bit poor, and I always try to use top grade fasteners when possible. I'll let
you know the part number if they work out well. The bottom end it complete,
the pistons are installed and all of the clearances came out just right.
Plastigage is the best. Last night I installed the cam and oil pump, and
finally remembered where those two really short bolts with copper washers fit.
I had them in the oil pump labeled bag, but it still took me 15 minutes to
figure it out. "Oh, side of the block moron" I said to myself.
Anyway, in another few weeks I should have the engine ready to go back in, with
trans. It will be a while longer before it starts, but I will be sure to let
you now. Also, if you were ever wondering what the best engine assembly oil
was for pistons, try Kendall GT1 Nitro 70. Great stuff, and it sticks.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8...9999 pieces
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 08:11:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Going to Buttonwillow?
www.mossmotors.com
I am planning on going up on Sunday morning with an
MGB fanatic. We will be making the 2 hour drive coming
from Thousand Oaks.
Is anyone else planning to attend?
Dean BN7
Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
http://health.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 15:26:59 +0000
Subject: HEALEY TRAVELER'S NETWORK
HEALEY TRAVELER'S NETWORK
Lyle Cope
160 Macridge Ave
Johnstown PA 15904
turtle@nb.net
(814) 269-3324
The HTN is a list of Healey enthusiasts who offer some
or all of the following: emergency technical assistance,
repair facilities, temporary garaging, loan of tools,
lodging, and general hospitality to other Healey owners.
The HTN can be particularly valuable when traveling by
Healey. Register and receive the complete list and
future updates.
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 08:48:19 -0700
Subject: Re: Non-Healey: What's this "Urgent message, from eBay Safe
---------------------
At 01:09 AM 5/2/2002, you wrote:
>I've received several emails headed "Urgent message, from eBay Safe
>Harbor !", purporting to be from eBay and requesting an unbelievable
>amount of personal information "to stay registered". I was directed to
>http://64.177.3.234
>
>I think this is a scam. any of you receiving this might like to think
>twice before responding.
>
>Anyone know the facts on this one?
>--
>Alan Cross
>Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Nick Batchelor" <nixstar1 at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 09:12:19 -0700
Subject: Tech tip
_________________________________________________________________
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Robert J. Denton/Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 12:23:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Non-Healey: What's this "Urgent message, from eBay
Bill Katz wrote:
> eBay would never send you to an IP address like that. Never trust messages
> like that, or click on the address. Identity theft is a huge problem, and
> too many people blindly respond to this type of scam.
>
> ---------------------
> At 01:09 AM 5/2/2002, you wrote:
> >I've received several emails headed "Urgent message, from eBay Safe
> >Harbor !", purporting to be from eBay and requesting an unbelievable
> >amount of personal information "to stay registered". I was directed to
> >http://64.177.3.234
> >
> >I think this is a scam. any of you receiving this might like to think
> >twice before responding.
> >
> >Anyone know the facts on this one?
> >--
> >Alan Cross
> >Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 12:32:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Tech tip
> /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
>
If you take the time to check the "Archives" I think you will find that this
subject just ran the "gauntlet" last week.
FYI in my BJ8, "Blackie," I use Valvoline SAE 30 (Non-Detergent) Motor Oil.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 10:08:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Non-Healey: What's this "Urgent message, from eBay
Remember: eBay will not ask you for sensitive personal information
(such as your password, credit card and bank account numbers,
Social Security numbers, etc.) in an email.
Copyright 1995-2002 eBay Inc. All Rights Reserved. Designated trademarks
and brands are the property of their respective owners.
---------------------------
At 09:23 AM 5/2/2002, you wrote:
>I hate to ask the obvious, but what does E-Bay say about this one? We can hash
>it out all day and night and not have an answer.
>
>Bill Katz wrote:
>
> > eBay would never send you to an IP address like that. Never trust messages
> > like that, or click on the address. Identity theft is a huge problem, and
> > too many people blindly respond to this type of scam.
> >
> > ---------------------
> > At 01:09 AM 5/2/2002, you wrote:
> > >I've received several emails headed "Urgent message, from eBay Safe
> > >Harbor !", purporting to be from eBay and requesting an unbelievable
> > >amount of personal information "to stay registered". I was directed to
> > >http://64.177.3.234
> > >
> > >I think this is a scam. any of you receiving this might like to think
> > >twice before responding.
> > >
> > >Anyone know the facts on this one?
> > >--
> > >Alan Cross
> > >Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ted Schroeder" <Tedseven at torchlake.com>
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 13:27:06 -0400
Subject: cast aluminum fan
Thanks,
Ted
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 18:03:29 +0000
Subject: Re: cast aluminum fan
- Chinese Proverb
> This is scary! I have been told that in the early days that Healeys had
> trouble with cast aluminum (aluminium) fan blades coming apart and tearing up
> the engine compartment. Does anyone on the list know this to be true? My BN1
> has an alloy fan. I have no idea whether it's original or a repop. Should I be
> looking for some kind of modern replacement?
>
> Thanks,
> Ted
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From BluegrassClub at aol.com
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 14:40:38 EDT
Subject: SPRINGTHING 2002
Still time to register for this exciting event. Already we have OVER 45
REGISTRATIONS from Texas, Ohio, Michigan, Missouri, Indiana, Kentucky,
Tennessee, Georgia and Illinois. Join your Healey friends (and make new ones)
and join us for another fun event.
This year our successful annual event moves to another great location,
Historic Corydon, Indiana. Located on I-64 just 20 miles west of Louisville,
KY, the town square of Corydon features over 80 shops, restaurants and
attractions. Our host hotel will be the <A
HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/bluegrassclub/springthinghotelinfo.html";>Old
Capital Inn</A> with a special room
rate of only $55 per night.
On Friday morning crank up the Healey and join us in a scenic tour of the
Hoosier National Forest. We'll see commanding views of the Ohio River Valley,
perhaps the inside of a cave, sample the gastronomic pleasures of Pluto Water
and maybe find the ghost of old Scarface Al. Then enjoy your choice of <A
HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/bluegrassclub/springthinglinks.html";>our
optional activities </A>including Riverboat Gambling and Great Local
Restaurants.
Saturday enter the Popularity Car Show featuring all your favorite Healeys.
Held In conjunction with a large Regional Art Fair, this event will be in
downtown Historic Corydon. Strolling among the cars and the art exhibits, wha
t better way to spend a Saturday Morning. Then join us for a ride on the
Historic Corydon Railroad for an afternoon excursion
Our always excellent Hospitality Suite, Inventive Awards, Tasty Banquet,
Interesting Auction, hilarious FunKhana are all on the weekend's agenda.
Check out last years activities at <A
HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/bluegrassclub/springthing-2001-thanks.html";>Springthing
</A><A
HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/bluegrassclub/springthing-2001-thanks.html";>2001</A>
Saturday evening enjoy a fine Awards Banquet Buffet Dinner and special
auction. Trophies for the winners and a few surprises are always on the
agenda. Our Auctioneer will entertain you while pitching his fine
Healeywares.
We've included one of the best <A
HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/bluegrassclub/springthingautocross.html";>Autocross</A>
events ever to this years
Springthing! Hosted by the Kentucky Region SCCA, the Autocross will be in
Louisville at the Papa John's Football Stadium parking lot. It is a HUGE and
challenging course featuring well over 100 competitors. Special classes and
arrangements have been made just for the Healeys to allow us to compete first
and allow plenty of travel time on Sunday.
Visit our web site at <A
HREF="http://www.springthing.info/";>www.springthing.info</A> for more
information and
registration forms.
Hope to see you there!
Thanks,
The Bluegrass Club
Louisville, KY
Join us for Springthing 2002. May 16-19 in Corydon, IN. Visit the web site at
<A HREF="http://www.springthing.info/";>www.springthing.info</A> for a preview
and registration information.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From rfrisby <rfrisby at micron.com>
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 14:27:29 -0600
Subject: gearbox oil question
This subject has been discussed at length, both recently and in the
past. Right now, some Listers might be suffering burnout on this particular
subject, so I've e-mailed you off-list with both my reply to this question
(just one opinion!) and with Chris Dimmock's GREAT piece on searching the
Healey list archives and the internet in general for the answers to such
questions.
Bob Frisby
'62 BT7 tricarb
-----Original Message-----
From: Nick Batchelor
Sent: Thursday, May 02, 2002 10:12 AM
To:
Subject: Tech tip
What is the best or recommended transmission oil for use in the Austin
Healey MK 3000 BJ8 with overdrive?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From JAnde63063 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 16:52:03 EDT
Subject: Re: Fuel Tanks
I have used this service on the odd shaped Jensen Healey gas tank. I find
this repair method very satisfactory. I have no leaks!
Jerry Anderson
JH JH-5
AH BN4
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 17:02:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Tech tip
In case you missed - the consensus is a 30 weight non-detergent motor oil
will do the job!
Good luck
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 16:31:16 -0500
Subject: Door Seal for BN7
Does anyone out there have a sample (small piece) of the door seal that goes on
the edge of shut face (notice I didn't make a typographical error in the
spelling of sh*t face).
Moss Motors part number is 249-880. If anyone has a sample that they can scan
and send me an e-mail picture I sure would appreciate it. If you have a sample
and no scanner, you can send me a small sample piece to :
Don Yarber
1028 Clint Russell Road
Morganfield, KY.
42437
Please post to the Healey List if you intend to send me a sample, that way
others won't repeat.
Thanks a million.
Don
BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 16:28:45
Subject: Re: gearbox oil question
I have in stock either Gearbox oil 30 or 40(hotter ambient temp) for your
transmission and OD by the Penrite Oil Co.
Please let me know if I can help.
Thanks and God Bless
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx. 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-5610-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
At 02:27 PM 05/02/2002 -0600, you wrote:
>Nick,
>
> This subject has been discussed at length, both recently and in the
>past. Right now, some Listers might be suffering burnout on this particular
>subject, so I've e-mailed you off-list with both my reply to this question
>(just one opinion!) and with Chris Dimmock's GREAT piece on searching the
>Healey list archives and the internet in general for the answers to such
>questions.
>
> Bob Frisby
> '62 BT7 tricarb
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Nick Batchelor
>Sent: Thursday, May 02, 2002 10:12 AM
>To:
>Subject: Tech tip
>
>
>What is the best or recommended transmission oil for use in the Austin
>Healey MK 3000 BJ8 with overdrive?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 17:05:37 -0400
Subject: Re: cast aluminum fan
>This is scary! I have been told that in the early days that Healeys had
>trouble with cast aluminum (aluminium) fan blades coming apart and tearing up
>the engine compartment. Does anyone on the list know this to be true? My BN1
>has an alloy fan. I have no idea whether it's original or a repop. Should I be
>looking for some kind of modern replacement?
>
>Thanks,
>Ted
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From BSCCofKY at aol.com
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 18:00:32 EDT
Subject: MARQUES ON THE GREEN
Featuring over 125 British Cars! The Largest British Car Show in Kentucky!
Sponsored by the BRITISH SPORTS CAR CLUB Louisville, Kentucky
Registration from 9:00 AM to Noon. Awards at 3:00 PM
PARTICIPANTS CHOICE VOTING CLASS TROPHIES. SPECIAL & NOVELTY AWARDS BEST OF
SHOW. MASTERS CLASS (Prior Year Class Winners) BEST OF FEATURED MARQUE
This years featured Marques will be Little British Cars - Midget - Sprite -
Spitfire - Mini & More!
Registration Form - Print and Mail Today!! Or visit the club web page at <A
HREF="http://britishsportscarclub.com/";>
BritishSportsCarClub.com</A> for more information
Name _______________________________________
Street _______________________________________
City _____________________ State ____ Zip _______
Telephone___________________________________
Email_______________________________________
Car Information
Year _____ Make ___________ Model __________ Color _________
Year _____ Make ___________ Model __________ Color _________
___ Check here for Diamond In The Rough Class
___ Check here if Year 2001 Class Winner
PARTS, VENDORS, RAFFLES and FUN
No Charge To Vendors
LIABILITY RELEASE
I, the undersigned, understand that the British Sports Car Club assumes
neither responsibility nor liability for my actions, the actions of others,
or any loss or damage to any person or person's property participating in
this event
Signature________________________ Date_________
Please make checks payable to BSCC and mail to:
BRITISH SPORTS CAR CLUB
P.O. Box 43923
Louisville, KY 40253-0923
ADVANCE PAYMENT
BSCC Members $10.00 _______
First Car $12.00 _______
Second Car $6.00 _______
DAY OF SHOW
First Car $15.00 _______
Second Car $8.00 _______
Total Amount $ __________
If additional information is required contact Mike Leezer (502) 239-8343
.Fax: (502) 451-3247 .E-Mail: <A
HREF="mailto:Mikes74tr6@cs.com";>Mikes74tr6@cs.com </A>or Don Minnich (812)
923-7349
.E-Mail: <A HREF="mailto:dons59tr3a@aol.com";>dons59tr3a@aol.com </A> Or visit
the club web page at <A HREF="http://britishsportscarclub.com/";>
BritishSportsCarClub.com</A>
Print and mail today!
To request a copy or for more information contact <A
HREF="mailto:information@britishsportscarclub.com";>
information@britishsportscarclub.com</A>
A fun day for the Whole Family!!!
<A HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/bsccofky/BSCC_bash_hotel.html";>Click here for
Marques on the Green Driving Directions</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John <john4 at attbi.com>
Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 16:27:11 -0700
Subject: Healey International Event Schedule
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Reid Trummel <ahcusa at healeyhighlights.com>
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 15:26:59 +0000
Subject: HEALEY TRAVELER'S NETWORK
Below is a description and email for the HTN. I tried
to add my name, but got my email returned because of
unknown address. It was a link off of AH club USA
site. Does anyone know if someone is still
maintaining this list. Its a great idea.
Ira
HEALEY TRAVELER'S NETWORK
Lyle Cope
160 Macridge Ave
Johnstown PA 15904
turtle@nb.net
(814) 269-3324
The HTN is a list of Healey enthusiasts who offer some
or all of the following: emergency technical
assistance, repair facilities, temporary garaging,
loan of tools, lodging, and general hospitality to
other Healey owners. The HTN can be particularly
valuable when traveling by Healey. Register and
receive the complete list and future updates.
------------
Hi Ira,
Glad you like the idea. In addition to the list that
Lyle keeps (or perhaps "was" keeping; haven't heard
from him in a good long while, although with the
annual update to the Austin-Healey Resource Book due,
it will be time to confirm his contact info soon -
thanks for the head's up that his email address may be
changed; I'll look into it), we also list indicate the
Healey Traveler's Network participants in the
membership list within the Resource Book. We do that
simply by listing their last name in bold font and
underlined. (It's explained in a note at the
beginning of the list, on page 23 in the case of the
2001 edition of the Resource Book.) This makes the
Resource Book an even better reference resource when
traveling.
We plan to keep it up and since the list is growing
every year, the Healey Traveler's Network should
continue to increase and provide more potential
benefit. Thanks again.
=====
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
http://www.healey.org
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
===============================
Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
http://health.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From JSoderling at aol.com
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 23:10:08 EDT
Subject: Healey Sighting in Alamo, CA
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 21:26:38 -0700
Subject: No Healey Content
http://www.flybywire.co.nz
Just saw it on E!. Looked pretty strange.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John <john4 at attbi.com>
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 21:52:55 -0700
Subject: OpenRoasd 2002 Event Schedule
Event Schedule for OpenRoads 2002 guarantees weeklong Healey vacation at
beautiful Lake Tahoe
SUNNYVALE California (USA) -- May 1, 2002 - The official event schedule of
the OpenRoads 2002 Healey International, containing a variety of exciting
activities for those attending the upcoming meet, was released today.
The OpenRoads 2002 Healey International will be held June 23-28, 2002 at
the Horizon Casino and Resort in Stateline NV (Lake Tahoe South Shore).
The event celebrates the 50th anniversary of the first Austin-Healey, the
100, and the popularity and longevity of all Big Healeys, Sprites, Jensen
Healeys and other cars bearing the Healey Marque.
Scheduled events during OpenRoads 2002 include a Popular Choice Car
Show,
a competitive TSD Rallye and an Observation Rallye through the back roads
and passes of the Lake Tahoe area, a day of autocrossing, timed runs and
funkhana at the Lake Tahoe Airport and an Around the Lake Tour.
Also on the schedule are two banquet dinners, an auction of Healey
Memorabilia and other donations, a Pinewood Derby and RC Races, a golf
tournament and the first Healey Blackjack Tournament. Those registering
for the event will also be able to attend a number of technical sessions,
visit with the Healey Ladies at a special tea reception, and cover the
countryside at their own pace through a series of self-guided tours. The
event schedule kicks off Sunday evening, June 23, with a special reception
in honor of Gerry Coker.
During the event, the Austin Healey Club of America will sponsor an
attendee reception and will hold a semi-annual Delegates' Meeting, Austin
Healey Cub-USA will host a hospitality suite. Golden Gate Austin Healey
Club, sponsor of the OpenRoads 2002 Healey International, also plans a
hospitality suite. Regalia, Arts and Crafts and Vendor Sales will continue
through Wednesday of the event.
OpenRoads 2002 Event Schedule
Sunday June 23
6 AM-10 AM Breakfast Buffet
8 AM-6 PM Attendee Registration (Alpine Room/Convention
Center)
12 PM-5 PM Set up Arts and Crafts and Regalia
6 PM- 8 PM Opening Cocktail Reception with Gerry Coker
Monday June 24
6 AM-5 PM Self-Guided Tours
6 AM-10 AM Breakfast Buffet
8 AM-3 PM Popular Choice car Show
3 PM- 5 PM Attendee Registration
3 PM-4 PM Ladies' Tea
4 PM-5 PM Technical Session
4 PM-5 PM First autograph sessions (Sequoia
Room/Convention Center)
4PM - 6 PM Pinewood Derby
4 PM Blackjack tutorial
5 PM-7 PM Healey Blackjack Tournament
7 PM-9 PM AHCA Reception
Tuesday June 25
6 AM-5 PM Self-Guided Tours
6 AM- 10 AM Breakfast Buffet
8 AM - 9 AM AHCA Presidents' Breakfast
8 AM - 9 AM Rendezvous 2003 Delegates' Meeting
9 AM- 3 PM TSD and Observation Rallyes
4 PM-6 PM Austin Healey Club of America Delegates'
Meeting
4 PM-5 PM Technical Session
5 PM First Awards Dinner (first seating)
6:30 PM First Awards dinner (second seating)
8 PM Healey Auction
Wednesday June 26
6 AM-5 PM Self-Guided Tours
6 AM-10 AM Breakfast Buffet
7 AM-5 PM Autocross and Timed Events
7 AM-5 PM Funkhana
8 AM-12 PM Healey Golf Tournament
4 PM-5 PM Technical Session
4 PM-5 PM Second Autograph sessions
6 PM-8 PM Austin Healey Club of America Reception
8 PM-9 PM "Around the World" Rallye presentation
Thursday June 27
6 AM-5 PM Self-Guided Tours
6 AM-10 AM Breakfast Buffet
9 AM-3 PM Around the Lake Tour
4 PM-6 PM RC Races
4 PM-5 PM Technical Session
5 PM Awards Dinner and Wrap-Up Banquet (first
seating)
6:30 PM Awards dinner and Wrap-Up Banquet (second seating)
Friday June 28
6 AM-10 AM Breakfast Buffet
9 AM-1 PM Check out and Departure
12 PM Post Event Tours Begin
As of the close of registration on May 1, there were 626 paid
registrations for the event, representing over 550 Healeys.
###
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 21:37:17 +0100
Subject: Re: Horn Restoration for 1960 BT7
It should be sufficent to just turn the external adjuster and set up the
current as detailed in the manual. I would not advise opening the horns
up because to set the system up correctly you will need special jigs and
a dial gauge.
However if all else fails then you have nothing to loose!
All the best
>Hello all-
>After a 45 day break from my 1960 BT7 I am back with a new vigor. With the
>radiator out of the car I have decided to pull my pair of stock horns and give
>them a "cleaning". Fact is I have one sitting here on my desk and I have no
>idea how to clean this baby up. Before removal, the horns worked but only
>slightly. In fact they were barely audible and sounded nothing like they did
>10 years ago. Can anyone tell me what I should do with these to clean them up
>and get them back to their former glory? Also I have removed the 6 screws
>that surround the perimeter of the Horn face and was hoping to remove that
>ring but it appears that it may also be held in place by some other screws?
>Maybe from the back? I don't want to force or break this so I have decided to
>post first. Your advice is deeply appreciated!
>Best Regards-
>Matt Wilson
>1960 BT7
>
--
John Harper
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 21:48:48 +0100
Subject: Re: cast aluminum fan
I personally have never heard of this being a problem and my experience
included this type of fan fitted to various Austin Saloons. The only
thing I would worry about is a fan from a car which has had an accident
and the fan has "gone ploughing" into the radiator. Then I for one would
scrap it.
All the best
>This is scary! I have been told that in the early days that Healeys had
>trouble with cast aluminum (aluminium) fan blades coming apart and tearing up
>the engine compartment. Does anyone on the list know this to be true? My BN1
>has an alloy fan. I have no idea whether it's original or a repop. Should I be
>looking for some kind of modern replacement?
>
>Thanks,
>Ted
>
--
John Harper
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Fri, 03 May 2002 17:40:12 +1000
Subject: Update to Healey site
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Splitkane" <Splitkane at GenomicTechnologies.com>
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 06:46:47 -0400
Subject: Yellow Healey In Pantene Commercial
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Fri, 03 May 2002 10:33:48 -0700
Subject: air deflector/expansion tank
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Fri, 03 May 2002 08:24:50 -0700
Subject: Re: Yellow Healey In Pantene Commercial
I thought that's what I had seen. I watched all evening in the hopes of
seeing it again but they didn't replay it. I can't believe how much prime
time sucks!
John
_________________________________________________________________
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Joseph Smathers" <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 12:5:42 -0400
Subject: test - no Healey content
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Fri, 03 May 2002 17:02:34 +0000
Subject: Traveler's network update
Also if there is anyone out there who would like to be
added to my site please let me know off list.
Things to include:
YOur name
Phone number
State, city or geographic area
email address
type of help offered; roadside assistance, towing, tool
loan, directions to local repair or parts house or???
I would also like to create a database of repair and
parts houses near you. So even if you do not want to be
a part of the the list, maybe you could contribute your
locale and a recommendation for repair of parts
resources.
Once I get it up I will post to the list the URL. I
would at that time also appreciate it if I could be
added to your club or personal pages.
Tine-line is late june/early July to get it online.
Sooner if I get a big enough response. Fortunately my 10
year old son has offered to help, he has more free time
than me.
Thanks for any input,
1959 BT7
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Drtrite at aol.com
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 13:18:31 EDT
Subject: Re: air deflector/expansion tank
<< And has anybody installed an expansion tank on there healey. >>
Look at the tank on the<A HREF="www.ntahc.org"> ntahc.org</A> web siote under
tech tips. May be of interest.
Don
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 13:38:05 -0500
Subject: eBayMotors Seller List bcolins
The link below will take you to an ebay page where I currently have 2
turbodiesel and one gas V8 Mercedes listed..
Still have an 83 911 SC restoration that will soon be done and will soon
have my 61 Healey 3000 restoration (8 years now) running and driving (for
sale as well) Coming soon, an 82 633 CSI 5 speed and 53 Healey 100-4 (needs
everything) In bikes, I have an 99 BMW R1100GS for $9400 (under warranty/
14K on it) a 94 R1100RS for $6500, a 2000 1150 GS ($10,800) and a 96
R1100RT coming soon. ALL ARE FOR SALE! Make me an offer! enjoy.
If you have no interest, please hit that key that says "Delete". Thanks
Here is the ebay link:
http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewLis
tedItems&userid=bcolins&since=-1&sort=2&rows=25
Brian Collins
Southern MotorSports
10120 Cayuga #108
Dallas, TX 75228
214-321-SOUTH (7688)
Your Source for "Helen Twowheels Super Packing System"
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which had
a name of eBayMotors Seller List bcolins.url]
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From RobertH148 at aol.com
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 15:14:04 EDT
Subject: Re: Options at Purchase?
I remember Ed Roth's well. We purchased a number of parts from them.
Jerry Truitt worked for them and raced some very fast MGA's and Healeys -
both Sprites and Big Healeys. He was a very good and well known driver during
the 1960's. We had him test drive our Sprite at the Vineland, NJ track to see
what he thought of it and what we needed to do to improve it. He thought the
car was good. The only problem was the drivers who needed more experience as
it was our first year racing.
His brother, Muggs, was one of the better Sprite drivers of the time. There
were very few other drivers who could stay with Mugg's Dayglo Orange car and
not many of them ever got past if his car was healthy.
Bob Humphreys
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 06:35:04 -0700
Subject: Re: air deflector/expansion tank
and thanks to Marion Brantley for the inspiration.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666 TARHEELY
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Drtrite@aol.com
To: stjepkem@optonline.net ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, May 03, 2002 10:18 AM
Subject: Re: air deflector/expansion tank
In a message dated 5/3/02 9:30:10 AM Central Daylight Time,
stjepkem@optonline.net writes:
<< And has anybody installed an expansion tank on there healey. >>
Look at the tank on the<A HREF="www.ntahc.org"> ntahc.org</A> web siote
under
tech tips. May be of interest.
Don
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Fri, 03 May 2002 21:05:14 +0000
Subject: Re: Traveler's net more info
Places of automotive interest might be nice as well.
special museum, eateries, exhibits etc. in your area.
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
> I have heard from a number of you about the HTN list.
> Reid Trammel mentioned that his resource book includes
> info about help along the way. I have decided to work on
> building a LBC Traveler's Network site. I have been
> given the URL for the MG list. If any of you who have
> membership in other marques' lists or are on the LBC
> list serv, I would appreciate any info on weather or not
> the other marques maintain such a list. I want to add
> those links to my page.
>
> Also if there is anyone out there who would like to be
> added to my site please let me know off list.
> Things to include:
> YOur name
> Phone number
> State, city or geographic area
> email address
> type of help offered; roadside assistance, towing, tool
> loan, directions to local repair or parts house or???
> I would also like to create a database of repair and
> parts houses near you. So even if you do not want to be
> a part of the the list, maybe you could contribute your
> locale and a recommendation for repair of parts
> resources.
>
> Once I get it up I will post to the list the URL. I
> would at that time also appreciate it if I could be
> added to your club or personal pages.
> Tine-line is late june/early July to get it online.
> Sooner if I get a big enough response. Fortunately my 10
> year old son has offered to help, he has more free time
> than me.
> Thanks for any input,
> 1959 BT7
>
> --
> Ira Erbs
> Digs-4 Solutions
> For training,network,PC and
> Macintosh
> "Learning without thinking is
> labor lost; thinking
> without learning is dangerous."
>
> - Chinese Proverb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 08:01:40 -0700
Subject: Fw: Big Healey stuff FYI..
*****
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 07:59:12 -0400
From: "Kansa, Robert" <KansaR@diebold.com>
Subject: big healey big favor.
could anyone help me out here..
this weekend at the NEOAHC show/swap meet i am selling off all my extra big
healey stuff.
i would hate to trash what i dont sell, but its got to go! i need room for
other LBC stuff!
anyways, would someone be willing to post/forward a list of leftover goodies
to a "big healey" list for me?
otherwise, its all gonna go in a dumpster come about wed. and this includes
body parts a tranny and engine parts,
please contact me if you can help with the posting, thanks.
R Kansa/RCCSA
*****
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Bob Bell" <rgbell at chartermi.net>
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 21:20:12 -0500
Subject: straps on hood
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Peter Hunt" <peter at hunt.sol.co.uk>
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Sat, 4 May 2002 21:33:38 +0100
Subject: Virus Alert
Two emails received in the past 72 hours - delete immediately
"The Garden of Eden"
& "Japanese girl VS playboy"
Norton Anti Virus picked these two up straight away.
Peter Hunt
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Sat, 4 May 2002 16:50:41 -0500
Subject: eBay Motors item 1825782069 (Ends May-07-02 143027 PDT ) -
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1825782069
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which had
a name of eBay Motors item 1825782069 (Ends May-07-02 143027 PDT ) - Other
Makes Custom INDYCYCLE.url]
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From JOHNHEALEY5 at aol.com
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Sat, 4 May 2002 18:43:18 EDT
Subject: FOR SALE
Rebuilt Rust-free Frame
Front and Rear Shroud
2 Doors
Hood and Truck Lid
Trans Tunnel
Complete for $2,300 obo
E-mail John at Johnhealey5@Aol.com
or Call at (610) 358-1656
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "T.R. Householder" <trhouse at greenapple.com>
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Sat, 04 May 2002 19:40:26 +0000
Subject: refigerator magnet/Dash plaque
a SASE. to 1151 Parkview Drive, Lancaster, Ohio 43130. Proceedes go to
furthering British car activities. Volume quotes available.
Tom
Return-Path: <dochs@greenapple.com>
Received: from greenapple.com (dhcp26155155.columbus.rr.com
[24.26.155.155]) by core1.greenapple.com (8.11.6/8.10.1) with ESMTP id
g44Eaur00455 for <trhouse@greenapple.com>; Sat, 4 May 2002 10:36:56
-0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <3CD3F1AF.802@greenapple.com>
Date: Sat, 04 May 2002 10:35:27 -0400
From: "Dorothea J. Ochs" <dochs@greenapple.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; Win98; en-US; rv:0.9.4)
Gecko/20011019 Netscape6/6.2
X-Accept-Language: en-us
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: "T.R. Householder" <trhouse@greenapple.com>
Subject: Caution magnet
References: <3CD12D66.7010304@greenapple.com>
<3CD12E1D.1010302@greenapple.com> <3CD3A1F3.AEB9D31F@greenapple.com>
X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/mixed by demime 0.97c
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
magnet.jpg]
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From dwflagg at juno.com
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Sat, 4 May 2002 19:56:52 -0400
Subject: Re: 1959 100-6
" I am writting you to let you know that I am forced to sell my healey.
I am in the
process of trying to see what I should sell her for. The car is
totally stripped frame,
and subframe, blasted and primered. the car can be restored. She has
spent most
of her life up north, rot. I have purchased already most of the frame
and subframe
repair pieces, all from the best firms, Classic Collectable, Vintage,
Kilmartin.
Complete car minus interior panels and carpet. Some extra parts also.
"
If you may have an interest, please contact me off the list. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Sat, 4 May 2002 19:00:59 -0500
Subject: Door Chrome...again
Problem is... it's still not flowing together....
Here is what I am doing.... you find the fault to my sequence... cause I
know I about have to be doing something wrong...
I have the vent window in the car... I've attached the lift the dot
fastener to the chrome strip.... then I took the window seal and attached
it to the chrome.... Then I'm trying to slide this chrome piece over the
front and the back of the doors sheet metal so the clips engage the doors
sheet metal top.... I've tried rolling it on from the front to the back and
then tried the back to the front....
What specifically is the problem is that the back two clips act like they
are to far away from the sheet metal and to get them on I'd have to bent
the door top around.... obviously I'm just not comfortable bending this car
up to get this done....
Are the window's supposed to be in the car at this point? cause they
are... and what about the vent window? should I remove all that and THEN
try and install the door chrome?
any thoughts would be most appreciated.... Thanks in advance...
Keith ( by the way the burrito was on the top of the ice machine.... poor
thing... all weithered away.... I've decided it was made of Jumping
beans.... and they jumped over there and ran away rather then getting
eaten...)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 03:36:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Door Chrome...again
Hmmm maybe....
Keith
----------
> From: Keith Turk <kturk@ala.net>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Door Chrome...again
> Date: Saturday, May 04, 2002 7:00 PM
>
> Guys... I had a couple of you respond to this silly question.... and I
> first need to thank those folks.... so John..... and Gary.... I
appreciate
> it....
>
> Problem is... it's still not flowing together....
>
> Here is what I am doing.... you find the fault to my sequence... cause I
> know I about have to be doing something wrong...
>
> I have the vent window in the car... I've attached the lift the dot
> fastener to the chrome strip.... then I took the window seal and attached
> it to the chrome.... Then I'm trying to slide this chrome piece over the
> front and the back of the doors sheet metal so the clips engage the doors
> sheet metal top.... I've tried rolling it on from the front to the back
and
> then tried the back to the front....
>
> What specifically is the problem is that the back two clips act like they
> are to far away from the sheet metal and to get them on I'd have to bent
> the door top around.... obviously I'm just not comfortable bending this
car
> up to get this done....
>
> Are the window's supposed to be in the car at this point? cause they
> are... and what about the vent window? should I remove all that and THEN
> try and install the door chrome?
>
> any thoughts would be most appreciated.... Thanks in advance...
>
> Keith ( by the way the burrito was on the top of the ice machine.... poor
> thing... all weithered away.... I've decided it was made of Jumping
> beans.... and they jumped over there and ran away rather then getting
> eaten...)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 05:11:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Doors/lessons learned...
here is what I didn't do.... I didn't force something that wasn't
working... I didn't start bending sheet metal so I could do it WRONG.....
what a great set of lessons in how to go about mechanicing..... SPEED isn't
as important as my second rule of Mechanic'ing....... which is " DO NO HARM
" something bout hippo's... or tigers or something.... ( I'm sure there
are some doctors amoung us that will agree)
The first rule of course is " if you take a bath before you go to the
doctor... Wash that thing before you work on it " Taking pride in one's
work can only start with Cleanliness....
Damn I love this list.... Thank you all for your efforts.... sitting out
there at your computor screen sometimes it's hard to see folks on the other
end of the electron train struggling with something.... but all of us seem
to be willing to help.... VERY COOL STUFF....
Keith Turk ( http://downtown.ala.net/~kturk and www.turksrock.com )
----------
> From: Keith Turk <kturk@ala.net>
> To: Keith Turk <kturk@ala.net>; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Door Chrome...again
> Date: Sunday, May 05, 2002 3:36 AM
>
> So the question now is.... Do the clips opening that goes down over the
> door.... go Inside the top channel? or outside?
>
> Hmmm maybe....
>
> Keith
>
> ----------
> > From: Keith Turk <kturk@ala.net>
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Door Chrome...again
> > Date: Saturday, May 04, 2002 7:00 PM
> >
> > Guys... I had a couple of you respond to this silly question.... and I
> > first need to thank those folks.... so John..... and Gary.... I
> appreciate
> > it....
> >
> > Problem is... it's still not flowing together....
> >
> > Here is what I am doing.... you find the fault to my sequence... cause
I
> > know I about have to be doing something wrong...
> >
> > I have the vent window in the car... I've attached the lift the dot
> > fastener to the chrome strip.... then I took the window seal and
attached
> > it to the chrome.... Then I'm trying to slide this chrome piece over
the
> > front and the back of the doors sheet metal so the clips engage the
doors
> > sheet metal top.... I've tried rolling it on from the front to the back
> and
> > then tried the back to the front....
> >
> > What specifically is the problem is that the back two clips act like
they
> > are to far away from the sheet metal and to get them on I'd have to
bent
> > the door top around.... obviously I'm just not comfortable bending this
> car
> > up to get this done....
> >
> > Are the window's supposed to be in the car at this point? cause they
> > are... and what about the vent window? should I remove all that and
THEN
> > try and install the door chrome?
> >
> > any thoughts would be most appreciated.... Thanks in advance...
> >
> > Keith ( by the way the burrito was on the top of the ice machine....
poor
> > thing... all weithered away.... I've decided it was made of Jumping
> > beans.... and they jumped over there and ran away rather then getting
> > eaten...)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Sun, 05 May 2002 09:14:36 -0700
Subject: Roadster Hardtop Available
A friend of mine who is not a subscriber has asked me to post this message.
For sale: One 6 cyl 4 seater roadster hardtop in good to excellent
condition. This top is unrestored and is complete, missing only the 'J'
hook clamps and wing nuts, and the rear top to body sealing rubber, which
was removed to adapt the top to fit a 2 seat car by a previous owner. Rear
window and rear window rubber is in excellent condition. Original headling
material is undamaged, could use a bit of cleaning, glueing, etc.
Top is painted Old English White. Date stamped on right side frame is
12/59. Can be used as is without restoration, with a couple of new rubber
pieces and a new windlace set.
The asking price is $3,900 USD. Top is located in Victoria, B.C.
For more information, contact the vendor, Roy Moore at 250-658-1429, or
e-mail him - lisroy@islandnet.com
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7
'67 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 10:54:27 -0500
Subject: Squab hinge set
Don and I have several sets of store bought stuff that doesn't seem to get
the job done... Maybe worst case... someone can simply tell me what those
seat back hindges oughta look like
Thanks once again...
Keith
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 13:46:53 -0400
Subject: Re: air deflector/expansion tank
Steven...try Steve Norton @ www.cape-international.com and look at his
coolant recovery tank kit. Sweet. About $150 U.S.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Kbah100 at cs.com
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 18:55:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Parts washer
Ken Beck
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 19:28:01 EDT
Subject: Healey for sale
A friend has regretfully asked me to put this notice out to the list to
hopefully find a good home for his car. Health reasons force the sale.
Please contact him directly for photos and additional information. Don't
hesitate to refer people to this car.
Thanks, Richard
1962 Austin Healey 3000 Mk 2 for sale.
One of about 1500 center shift Tri-Carb 2+2's made. The last of the Roadster.
This car was completely restored to Factory original condition in 1998.
It is a Concours Gold winning car. Recently featured in the book
"Austin-Healey 100/100-6/3000 Restoration Guide" by Gary Anderson and Roger
Moment.
This car was painstakingly restored with help and guidance from Roger Moment
and Richard Gordon. It includes two sets of tires and wheels including the
Concours set of Dunlops and another set of 72 spoke chrome wheels for
non-Concours events. It also includes a Factory original hardtop restored by
Richard Gordon and Roger Moment.
The car is painted original Healey blue over old English white. It has
beautifully aligned fenders and doors to make a seamless transition across
all panels. Interior is dark blue with white piping. It was judged Concours
Gold at the St. Louis Conclave in June of 1999. It has received many awards
and honors including First Place at the Colorado English Motoring Conclave in
1998, 1999 and 2000, and Best of Show and Crowd Favorite at the Rocky
Mountain Highland Games 2000 car show. Too many features to describe hear.
For more information call Bob Bishop at 303-915-7010 or e-mail requests to
skiinstructor@msn.com Serious inquiries only, If not sold soon, the car will
be put up for Auction. Hurry, not many Healey's like this one. $42,000.
Purchaser pays for transportation.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 20:15:49 -0400
Subject: Bill Bolton
Would Bill Bolton please contact xat1@earthlink.net about hardtop
questions.
Thanks - sorry again,
CB
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Andrew Shrimpton" <andrew at hickeycontractors.co.nz>
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 12:43:41 +1200
Subject: Mallory Distributor
Thanks
Andrew Shrimpton
BT7
New Zealand
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 01:34:02 +0000
Subject: distributor oiler
Mark Fawcett
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 21:33:10 -0400
Subject: source for Glove Box Hinges?
What about high gloss chrome screws?
Ryan
BJ7 - (BJ8 dash)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "ROBERT HAY" <jerryhay at msn.com>
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 23:19:41 -0400
Subject: source for Glove Box Hinges?
A BT7 sits for four months; has less than 100 miles on rebuilt brakes.
No pedal; no brake fluid in outer reservoir; no apparent leaks; no servo.
Master cylinder was not replaced/rebuilt.
?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Sun, 05 May 2002 21:19:37 -0700
Subject: Acorn Nut Source Sought
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Sun, 05 May 2002 23:45:00 -0700
Subject: radiator
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 07:10:32 EDT
Subject: Spiderman Drives a Healey!
Rick
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 07:56:59 -0400
Subject: RE:
Couldn't resist :-)
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of ROBERT HAY
Sent: Sunday, May 05, 2002 11:20 PM
To: Healey Chat Group; Jim Warner
Subject:
A question for Colombo:
A BT7 sits for four months; has less than 100 miles on rebuilt brakes.
No pedal; no brake fluid in outer reservoir; no apparent leaks; no
servo.
Master cylinder was not replaced/rebuilt.
?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "ed orr" <eorr at cogeco.ca>
From: eyera3@attbi.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 09:36:08 -0400
Subject: gremlin in my tranny
Ed Orr - '67 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 09:56:17 EDT
Subject: Re: gremlin in my tranny
Ed,
The consensus about transmission fluids was to use a 30 weight non detergent
oil for best results (you might want to check the archives to get all the
recommendations).
Also, did you check the reservoir to determine that you had sufficient fluid
going to the clutch slave cylinder?
Good luck
Larry Wysocki
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From DMMax at aol.com
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 11:03:07 EDT
Subject: Re: Mallory Distributor
Actually, it would be great if this line of troubleshooting were explored on
the current list. Archives are fine, but this is an interactive medium.
Thanks, Mrs. "I-Hate-Oil-On-My-Outfits" Peel
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 11:05:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Mallory Distributor
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 11:06:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Acorn Nut Source Sought
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From DMMax at aol.com
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 11:11:22 EDT
Subject: Got Mallory ?
.... of course we can't e-mail photos on this list .... so..........
I'd still like to know how many people have done this modification ( Mallory
Dual Point Distributor) how it has worked and ,.... what about that pesky
oil leak ?
The curious Mrs. Peel / David Maxwell ;-)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Louis Galper <lgalper1 at cox.net>
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 08:27:12 -0700
Subject: Front shroud fastening BN2
Lou
BN1
San Diego AH Club
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 11:28:24 EDT
Subject: Re:
It's leaking somewhere. Start with Master Cylinder. Look inside the car and
see if the fluid is leaking from the Master Cylinder inside the cockpit.
Sometimes when the other parts are new and the MC is not it will blow out the
MC seals. My first guess since you don't see fluid on the garage floor.
Second is to check for leaks at the wheel cylinders. Remove the drums and
inspect. If that is the case and the wheel cylinders are leaking rebuild the
wheel cylinders. The shoes will be contaminated so take them and the brake
drums to AC Brake on College Street to be relined and arced to the drum.
Third is the front calipers could be leaking. Also hoses and connections
could be leaking.
I think (my personal opinion) that you should have gotten a complete second
brake job. Your mechanic filled the brake fluid with Castrol LMA and then
realized you had silicone fluid in the car. Normally this causes brakes to
seize not leak. What ever he did to flush out the system may have destroyed
the master cylinder seals.
I can rebuild the brake components for you if you need help.
Jim Werner
jerryhay@msn.com writes:
> A BT7 sits for four months; has less than 100 miles on rebuilt brakes.
> No pedal; no brake fluid in outer reservoir; no apparent leaks; no servo.
> Master cylinder was not replaced/rebuilt.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Join us for Springthing 2002. May 16-19 in Corydon, IN. Visit the web site at
<A HREF="http://www.springthing.info";>www.springthing.info</A> for a preview
and registration information.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 09:39:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Front Suspension Rebuild
Also, having just replaced the front hubs I am hoping
that I can leave the hubs/rotors together as an
assembly to save a little time. Any tips would be
much appreciated.
Dean BN7
Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
http://health.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 12:46:42 -0400
Subject: Rear leaf springs
I am considering replacing my leaf springs on my Phase II BJ8. Does anyone
have any recommendations as to where I should purchase them from? Moss sells
them, and I haven't yet checked out who else might. I am just looking for a
high quality part, that duplicates the original spring rate.
Thanks,
Dave Masucci
BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From rfrisby <rfrisby at micron.com>
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 12:22:16 -0600
Subject: RE: radiator paint
Of course, it would obviously look more correct and original if it
were black. The black color will also improve heat transfer (cooling) to
some degree. Of course, there is a competing effect in that the paint layer
is actually an insulator, so the trick is to keep the paint layer thin.
Eastwood, www.eastwoodco.com, has a "radiator black" paint (item #
10040 Z) just for this. The blurb in their catalog makes the above points
about heat transfer.
Bob Frisby
'62 BT7 tricarb
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Rader [mailto:rader@interworld.net]
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 12:45 AM
To: undisclosed-recipients
Subject: radiator
Listers:
A fellow that restores cars has suggested to me that I paint my new CJ
aluminum radiator flat black before putting it back into the E type. Any
thoughts?
Ron R
1967 FHC
1965 Healey BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 13:10:09 -0700
Subject: Buffing the Intake Manifold
Thanks in advance.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From dwflagg at juno.com
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 18:53:49 -0400
Subject: Re:Chassis
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 16:10:55 -0700
Subject: Exhaust Manifolds
Terry Blubaugh
'60 BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From <Austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 18:36:57 -0500
Subject: British Car Week
This is just reminder for everyone to make a special effort to spend some
quality time with your British car(s) during this year's British Car Week, May
25 through June 2, 2002. Get your cars out of the garage and show them off to
the rest of the unfortunate world who may not be aware of these very
interesting machines of the past.
British Car Week is an annual British car "awareness" week, helping to spread
awareness of classic British cars all over the world. This is not just a
regional event, but one that takes place wherever there might be a British car
to drive.
For some very good reasons to drive your British car, go to:
http://users.arczip.com/zntech/reasons_to_drive.html
Thanks, and have a great week!
Scott Helms - Curator
http://users.arczip.com/zntech/britishcarweek.html
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 20:04:42 -0400
Subject: can anyone hear me?
got no hits on my question about a source for BJ8 glove compartment hinges.
:(
Are you getting my emails? Is there a problem with my computer or is this
just a hard part to get?
Ryan
BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 20:36:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Buffing the Intake Manifold
<< Would appreciate experience-based advice on the following:
Which wheel would I use to smooth the sand-cast texture to the point where I
can buff it with progressively finer buffing compounds? >>
Which hot-rod show are you competing in?
<G>
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 19:17:18 -0500
Subject: Re: can anyone hear me?
I know what they look like as I have tightened them up on a couple of
different BJ8's... but much past that All I can do is tell you I got your
messages....
Keith
----------
> From: Ryan@Ledwith <ryan@ledwith.com>
> To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: can anyone hear me?
> Date: Monday, May 06, 2002 7:04 PM
>
> Healeyers:
>
> got no hits on my question about a source for BJ8 glove compartment
hinges.
> :(
>
> Are you getting my emails? Is there a problem with my computer or is
this
> just a hard part to get?
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Thomas L. Blaskovics" <u2347 at wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 21:18:57 -0400
Subject: tie down strap
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics
AHCUSA,ACHA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Morgantown, WV
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 18:47:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: gremlin in my tranny
It sounds like your clutch hydraulics are all screwed
up. I doubt it's yor tranny (thank goodness!!!$$$).
A few things to check:
1) Most 3000's have the same clutch and brake master,
except for Servo models like BJ8s. If the masters are
mounted in swapped positions, it'll cause very hard
shifting. Is your clutch pedal hard/stiff to press
down? If so, your masters are swapped (the clutch
pedal should be light to press on in a BJ8 - it has a
diaphram pressure plate).
2) Check your hydraulic fluid. Are you running out of
fluid?
3) If you pump the pedal, does it make it easier to
shift? This may be indicative of a worn slave
cylinder.
4) Make sure you depress the clutch pedal all the way
to the floor.
5) I've had very bad experiences with silicon brake
fluid (other listers have had good experiences). The
general consensus of the list is silicone brake fluid
works fantastically if its swelling agents are
formulated correctly. If not, it'll cause premature
wearing of your master & slave cylinders. In short -
choose your silicone brands wisely otherwise stick
with Dot3/Dot4. It is possible that your clutch slave
is worn out as a result.
6) Master and slave cylinders were polished with steel
wool? Do you mean inside the cylinder itself? This
is very bad, and if this is the case, I'd bet your
cylinders have worn out the rubber seals in the slave
or the master. You'll have to resleave your
cylinders, or simply buy new or rebuilt ones.
Good Luck Ed,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- ed orr <eorr@cogeco.ca> wrote:
> Just returned from NEOhio Swap Meet last night , 5
> 1/2 hour drive ,
> first long drive of the year. After about an hours
> driving the
> transmission began to shift stiffly when I had to
> stop could not
> shift at all out of fourth or if I did get out of
> fourth could not
> down shift into third just grinding. We stopped for
> about 3 or 4
> minutes and I could shift again , a little stiff .
> The bad shift
> condition soon returned when back on the road . We
> stopped for dinner
> 40 minutes and the shift was back working great ,
> another 50 miles to
> home and it was tight but not too bad . Any
> suggestions . The
> following should be taken into consideration . The
> car has been on the
> road 2 years since restoration , no tranny rebuild
> but has worked
> exellent before this incident . Master cylinders
> rebuilt with NOS kits
> using silicone brake fluid in all new clutch and
> brake systems ,
> cylinders were polished with steel wool (not good eh
> !). Over the
> winter I changed the oil in the transmission with
> 20-50 and over
> filled it by quite a bit , about 1/4" on the stick .
> I sure could use
> the wisdom of the list . Thanks
>
> Ed Orr - '67 BJ8
Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
http://health.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 22:17:01 -0400
Subject: Heritage Trim
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 03:25:54 +0000
Subject: Re: Heritage Trim
Mark Fawcett
59 BT7862
> Wow,
> I just received a shipment from Heritage Trim and Upholstery containing
> some of the interior trim for a 54 BN1 I am building with a deadline for
> Tahoe. Included in this shipment are all the boot lining trim and the
> interior armacord and carpet components.
> I must explain that this interior has been completely custom dyed and built
> up exactly as per the original, with red carpets and armacord, trimmed with
> orange (sometimes called "persimmon") vinyl.
> The good folks at Heritage Trim were at first reluctant to carry out this
> custom colour work, but did in fact agree to do so once they realized how
> determined I am to have this absolutely correct!
> I cannot overstate how absolutely correct and beautiful this job has turned
> out. These people are to be congratulated and encouraged to maintain this
> high standard.
> I have yet to receive the trim panels, leather seats and armrest, the hood,
> tonneau and the sidecurtains, but I am now confident that they will also be
> of the highest standard. I'll let everyone know when these arrive.
> Thanks go to Tony, David, Duncan Barb, and all the other good folks at
> Hetitage Upholstery and Trim.
> BTW, I am in no way connected with this firm, I'm just a very happy
> customer!
> Rich Chrysler
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From MD Lempert <mdlempert at comcast.net>
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 00:20:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Lempert 3.54 rin/pinion
Regards,
Mike Lempert
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 23:19:02 -0700 (PDT)
> From: joe mulqueen <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Lempert 3.54 rin/pinion
>
> So is this gear set still available?
> Thinks,
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
> Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
> http://health.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 23:37:38 -0700
Subject: Timing Chain
I just purchased a new timing chain through Moss. I could be blind but I
did not see any markings that were consistant with the "bright" markings on
my original chain.
1) Should I just count the links between the bright marks on the original
chain and mark the new chain accordingly?
2) My old chain was loose on the left side. The chain tensioner took up the
slack. The new chain is vry tight on both sides. Is this right?
Thanks
Kenny
61 BT-7
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 07:03:50 -0400
Subject: Re: gremlin in my tranny
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 07:32:40 -0400
Subject: Fwd: gremlin in my tranny
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From jbass <jbass at wrlh.sbgnet.com>
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 07:45:53 -0400
Subject: Austin Healey for sale
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 08:00:28 -0400
Subject: Parts for Sale
BTW, he said he was thinking about selling his tri carb--I forgot the year
It is an magnificent car.
Regards
Tom
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 08:18:35 -0400
Subject: not healey related
Thanks,
Fred
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 09:15:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Exhaust Manifolds
Terry Blubaugh
'60 BT7
<<
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Drtrite at aol.com
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 09:24:10 EDT
Subject: 2002 TX Round Up
It was fun, it was wet and we will have another Texas Round Up next year.
Hope you can come.
Don Lenschow
NTAHC
10 days to Spring Thing
43 days to OR 2002 Tahoe
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Robert J. Denton/Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 09:53:42 -0700
Subject: Re: Heritage Trim
My car is completely finished and already has one concours win.
http://www2.oakland.edu/concours/index.cfm?car=224
Bob Denton
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 08:01:28 -0600
Subject: Computer Virus
Everyone-
I received the following e-mail from a friend. Please take immediate action
as I did indeed find the virus file in my hard drive. I did as instructed
below and deleted it. I STRONGLY URGE YOU TO DO LIKEWISE.
Dave
Subject: VIRUS!!!!!! Many apologies for this. I have received a virus that
is transmitted automatically via address books. Because I have your e-mail
address in my address book, it means that you are likely to have this
computer virus and you will likely pass it on to everyone in your address
book. This virus is not detectable by McAfee or Norton and lies dormant for
14 days before it closes down your entire system. Below is a simple yet
effective method of finding and deleting the virus before it can do any
harm.
******PLEASE READ AND THEN ACT PROMPTLY!!
****DIRECTIONS:
1. Go to start - then "find" (depending on your computer)
2. In the "search" for "files or folders", type in "sulfnbk.exe" this is
the virus.
3. In the "look in" make sure you are searching drive c.
4. Hit "search" button (or find)
5. If the file shows up (it is an ugly blackish icon that will have the
name "sulfnbk.exe") -**do not open it**!!!!!
6. Right click on the file, go to delete and left click on it.
7. It will ask you if you want to send it to the recycle bin say "yes"
8. Go to your desktop (where all your icons are) and double cl ick on the
recycle bin.
9. Right click on "sulfnbk. Exe" and delete again or empty the recycle bin.
10. If you find this virus on your computer, send this e-mail to everyone
listed in your address book.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 10:11:49 EDT
Subject: Computer Virus - HOAX
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 09:20:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Fw: Computer Virus
> Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> '59 AH :{) '54 100
> http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
> PM
> Subject: Computer Virus
>
> Everyone-
> I received the following e-mail from a friend. Please take immediate action
> as I did indeed find the virus file in my hard drive. I did as instructed
> below and deleted it. I STRONGLY URGE YOU TO DO LIKEWISE.
> Dave
This is a hoax. See:
http://www.symantec.com/avcenter/venc/data/sulfnbk.exe.warning.html
I'm not sure what happens if you delete the file but everyone has one and, I
suspect, it's there for a reason. Maybe the real computer folk could explain
it.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 528 (New census numbers)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Claude Vaughn <dncvaughn at yahoo.com>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 07:26:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Computer Virus (HOAX)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 10:28:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Buffing the Intake Manifold
GM
----- Original Message -----
> Would appreciate experience-based advice on the following:
> Which wheel would I use to smooth the sand-cast texture to the point where
I
> can buff it with progressively finer buffing compounds?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 10:28:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Computer Virus
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
> Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> '59 AH :{) '54 100
> http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
> PM
> Subject: Computer Virus
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 00:35:27 +1000
Subject: Re: Computer Virus - THIS IS A HOAX - DON't delete SULFNBK.EXE
This is a hoax email - please don't delete a standard Microsoft utility
which enables your PC to restore "long file names". If you have deleted it -
there is a procedure to restore it.
Please read this:
http://vil.mcafee.com/dispVirus.asp?virus_k=99084
it says - in part -
AVERT HOAX Notice!!
McAfee AVERT Labs would like to inform you of a new email HOAX.
This email message is just a HOAX. Although, the SULFNBK.EXE file may become
infected by a number of valid viruses (most commonly W32/Magistr@MM, the
details of this HOAX message are not based on actual events.
We are advising users who receive the email to delete the message and DO NOT
pass it on as this is how an email HOAX propagates.
SULFNBK.EXE is a Microsoft Windows utility that is used to restore long file
names
Scroll down to the bottom of the page I linked above to find out how to
restore this file if you deleted it before you read this..
Please check on a reputable anti virus site to see if the email you receive
is a valid virus before passing on the warning.
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
'one of the first and one of the last'
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
To: "Cookie Shepard" <SHEPARJA@leegov.com>; "Kim L Porter"
<kporter@swcp.com>; "Kate Nelson" <knelson@abqtrib.com>; "Randy Wolfe"
<rwolfe@lanl.gov>; "JL Sherer" <the.sherer.family@worldnet.att.net>; "Mr.
Finespanner" <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net>; "Krazy Kiwi"
<magicare@rogers.com>; "Kenneth C Adams" <kcadams2@juno.com>; "Ohio Knox"
<ohio@rt66.com>; "Olin and Maile Kane" <kanes@frontier.net>; "Michael Urban
Trueworthy" <mtruewo1@maine.rr.com>; "Robert Owen Walters"
<Rowboat53@comcast.net>; "Clark-Susan Chipman" <cchipman1@stny.rr.com>;
"Chris Preston" <CPreston@KABANA.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>;
<spridgets@autox.team.net>; "Mike Bruce" <TWDERVISH@aol.com>; "Henry A.
Morrison" <dos_gusanos@email.msn.com>; "Wendy Waldman" <WCook76446@aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 08, 2002 12:01 AM
Subject: Fw: Computer Virus
> Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> '59 AH :{) '54 100
> http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
> PM
> Subject: Computer Virus
>
>
> Everyone-
> I received the following e-mail from a friend. Please take immediate
action
> as I did indeed find the virus file in my hard drive. I did as instructed
> below and deleted it. I STRONGLY URGE YOU TO DO LIKEWISE.
> Dave
>
> Subject: VIRUS!!!!!! Many apologies for this. I have received a virus that
> is transmitted automatically via address books. Because I have your e-mail
> address in my address book, it means that you are likely to have this
> computer virus and you will likely pass it on to everyone in your address
> book. This virus is not detectable by McAfee or Norton and lies dormant
for
> 14 days before it closes down your entire system. Below is a simple yet
> effective method of finding and deleting the virus before it can do any
> harm.
>
> ******PLEASE READ AND THEN ACT PROMPTLY!!
>
> ****DIRECTIONS:
>
> 1. Go to start - then "find" (depending on your computer)
>
> 2. In the "search" for "files or folders", type in "sulfnbk.exe" this is
> the virus.
>
> 3. In the "look in" make sure you are searching drive c.
>
> 4. Hit "search" button (or find)
>
> 5. If the file shows up (it is an ugly blackish icon that will have the
> name "sulfnbk.exe") -**do not open it**!!!!!
>
> 6. Right click on the file, go to delete and left click on it.
>
> 7. It will ask you if you want to send it to the recycle bin say "yes"
>
> 8. Go to your desktop (where all your icons are) and double cl ick on the
> recycle bin.
>
> 9. Right click on "sulfnbk. Exe" and delete again or empty the recycle
bin.
>
> 10. If you find this virus on your computer, send this e-mail to everyone
> listed in your address book.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 07:55:16 -0700
Subject: Re: Fw: Computer Virus
Folks, do a little research before you perpetuate these myths.
If you don't have a virus, you are helping out the hackers by wasting
everyone's time with these mailings.
If you DO have a virus, no one wants email from you anyway :)
Jim '62 BT7 TriCarb & Retired Microsoft Windows Support
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Dickstein" <bugide@solve.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Cc: "Cookie Shepard" <SHEPARJA@leegov.com>; "Kim L Porter"
<kporter@swcp.com>; "Kate Nelson" <knelson@abqtrib.com>; "Randy Wolfe"
<rwolfe@lanl.gov>; "JL Sherer" <the.sherer.family@worldnet.att.net>; "Mr.
Finespanner" <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net>; "Krazy Kiwi"
<magicare@rogers.com>; "Kenneth C Adams" <kcadams2@juno.com>; "Ohio Knox"
<ohio@rt66.com>; "Olin and Maile Kane" <kanes@frontier.net>; "Michael Urban
Trueworthy" <mtruewo1@maine.rr.com>; "Robert Owen Walters"
<Rowboat53@comcast.net>; "Clark-Susan Chipman" <cchipman1@stny.rr.com>;
"Chris Preston" <CPreston@KABANA.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>;
<spridgets@autox.team.net>; "Mike Bruce" <TWDERVISH@aol.com>; "Henry A.
Morrison" <dos_gusanos@email.msn.com>; "Wendy Waldman" <WCook76446@aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2002 7:20 AM
Subject: Re: Fw: Computer Virus
> frogeye wrote:
>
> > Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> > '59 AH :{) '54 100
> > http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
> > PM
> > Subject: Computer Virus
> >
> > Everyone-
> > I received the following e-mail from a friend. Please take immediate
action
> > as I did indeed find the virus file in my hard drive. I did as
instructed
> > below and deleted it. I STRONGLY URGE YOU TO DO LIKEWISE.
> > Dave
>
> This is a hoax. See:
>
> http://www.symantec.com/avcenter/venc/data/sulfnbk.exe.warning.html
>
> I'm not sure what happens if you delete the file but everyone has one and,
I
> suspect, it's there for a reason. Maybe the real computer folk could
explain it.
>
> --
> Larry Dickstein
> Lone Jack, MO
>
> Pop. 528 (New census numbers)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 10:57:00 EDT
Subject: Re: air deflector/expansion tank
<< About $150 U.S >>
I guess at this price it includes a new radiator.
Don
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 08:08:47 -0700
Subject: Re: tie down strap
I measure the mounting holes at 5.25" and 7.5" from centerline. Unless you are
creating new holes you should be able to see the old holes from the inside or
outside just forward of the rear shroud mounting flange. Hope that helps.
-John
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 11:10:11 EDT
Subject: Re: Timing Chain
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 09:20:15 -0600
Subject: virus hoax
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 09:22:46 -0600
Subject: Fw: SOME GOOD ADVISE RE: HOAXES
> If you ever have a doubt to the validity of any email that is sent to you
check this site first before you send it on to anyone.
>
> http://hoaxbusters.ciac.org/HoaxBustersHome.html
>
> These are also real good sites:
>
> http://www.snopes2.com/index.html
>
> http://www.urbanlegends.com/
>
> Bookmark them or save in your favorites file for a quick reference. It
only takes a minute to verify.
>
> . . . and when in doubt, please don't send it out.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 08:27:24 -0700
Subject: FW: Timing Chain
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 09:50:38 -0600
Subject: Re: Fw: SOME GOOD ADVISE RE: HOAXES
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <frogeye@swcp.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2002 9:27 AM
Subject: Re: Fw: SOME GOOD ADVISE RE: HOAXES
> Dave,
> I just typed in the "virus" file and my PC brought up all kinds of sites
that
> indicated it was a hoax.
> I sent a similar email to the Healey list 3 or 4 years ago and was bombed
> unmercilessly. They must be getting soft to let you off so easily.
> Rudy Streng
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 12:59:31 EDT
Subject: Healey, but not car related...
I have the photo from the recent Moss catalogue of the "Healey" Showroom,
Warwick. I would like to get as much information about this building as
possible to make a model of it. Does anyone have other pictures of it
(perhaps some side views)? Know the color of the brick? Sign lettering
colors? Any information that I can get would be appreciated. Please reply
off list to me personally. Thanks.
Richard
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Neil Home Mail" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 10:37:36 -0700
Subject: RE: tie down strap
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Thomas L. Blaskovics
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 6:19 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: tie down strap
I have just acquired the tie down staple for my BJ7
spare tire. Can anyone tell me how far to the left of center
the staple should be positioned? (Left when you are looking at the
trunk from the rear)
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics
AHCUSA,ACHA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Morgantown, WV
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Gordon Gilliam" <ggilliam at usol.com>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 13:44:31 -0400
Subject: Splash panel stays?
I'm in the process of rusted area repairs in the front wheel wells of my
BN4 (Longbridge) and have found what appear to be the remains of a brace or
stay at the lower inside front corner of each splash panel. All that is left
of this brace is a twisted or rusted off strap end about an inch long on the
splash panel, and I have no idea where it may have connected to, and I don't
see it in any of the catalog drawings I have looked at.
Thanks,
Gordy
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 11:47:44 -0700
Subject: Transmission Tunnel Seal Kit
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 13:03:31 -0500
Subject: 100-4/6 Windscreen Pillars
Mark
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From <alan at andysnet.net>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 15:05:52 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Transmission Tunnel Seal Kit
> Dear Message Board-
> I am having the Kilmartin manufactured structural pieces welded to the
> floor of my 1960 BT7 to make it compatible with the 1965 Center-Shift
> Transmission Tunnel. The duct tape and tin snipped patchwork that up
> til now formed this "seal" was not cutting it in the slightest. Anyway
> I see that Moss does not sell the seal kit (681-084) for the
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 16:21:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Transmission Tunnel Seal Kit
Karr Rubber Manufacturing
133 Lomita Street
El Segundo, CA 90245
800 955 5277
They sell custom made rubber shapes and they have a 120 page catalog
($6.00) with 12 to 15 shapes on each page, as well as standards and will
make shapes to your design.
Good luck,
Charley Braum
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 17:12:45 EDT
Subject: Re: 100-4/6 Windscreen Pillars
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bruce Steele <bsteele2 at pacbell.net>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 15:18:08 -0700
Subject: Re: 100-4/6 Windscreen Pillars
Bruce Steele
1960 BN7
bsteele2@pacbell.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Endicott
To: Healey List
Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2002 11:03 AM
Subject: 100-4/6 Windscreen Pillars
Any tricks on keeping the paint on the aluminum windscreen pillars on a 100.
I paint it and next time out I rub it off with while the hood is up.
Mark
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 19:05:45 -0400
Subject: Listers and Tilters
Has anyone used one of these and are they worth looking into? I have very
limited space and they appear to be ideal to give me the clearance to do work
on the underside of my car without using jack stands, etc.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 22:04:42 -0400
Subject: I Had It
Everyone-
I received the following e-mail from a friend. Please take immediate action
as I did indeed find the virus file in my hard drive. I did as instructed
below and deleted it. I STRONGLY URGE YOU TO DO LIKEWISE.
Dave
Subject: VIRUS!!!!!! Many apologies for this. I have received a virus that
is transmitted automatically via address books. Because I have your e-mail
address in my address book, it means that you are likely to have this
computer virus and you will likely pass it on to everyone in your address
book. This virus is not detectable by McAfee or Norton and lies dormant for
14 days before it closes down your entire system. Below is a simple yet
effective method of finding and deleting the virus before it can do any
harm.
******PLEASE READ AND THEN ACT PROMPTLY!!
****DIRECTIONS:
1. Go to start - then "find" (depending on your computer)
2. In the "search" for "files or folders", type in "sulfnbk.exe" this is
the virus.
3. In the "look in" make sure you are searching drive c.
4. Hit "search" button (or find)
5. If the file shows up (it is an ugly blackish icon that will have the
name "sulfnbk.exe") -**do not open it**!!!!!
6. Right click on the file, go to delete and left click on it.
7. It will ask you if you want to send it to the recycle bin say "yes"
8. Go to your desktop (where all your icons are) and double cl ick on the
recycle bin.
9. Right click on "sulfnbk. Exe" and delete again or empty the recycle bin.
10. If you find this virus on your computer, send this e-mail to everyone
listed in your address book.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 22:34:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Splash panel stays?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 22:51:03 -0400
Subject: Re: I Had It
Sit down, splash some water on your face, take a deep breath and --
don't name any files with more than eight characters.
There's another virus out there - do the same search for 'autoexec.bat'
and delete it as well.
Good luck,
CB
BN-1
Gateway Solo 3300
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 22:54:13 -0400
Subject: Tune Up
Two years ago, I rebuilt my BJ8 motor. Since that time it's run quite good.
It pulls okay, and idles okay. At the time of the rebuild, I also cleaned
and rebuilt the HD8 carburetors. I also installed new throttle shaft bushes
in both carbs.
But I've known that it has not been running quite as strong as I think it
should. So after cleaning and gapping the plugs, and doing a general
sprucing up, I decided that I'd start to try and tweak it to give it's best
performance. I thought it seemed to be running a slight bit lean, although
the plugs ALL had the correct color to them. So I started with the main jet
adjusting screws, and I began to enrichen the mixture maybe an eighth turn
at a time. Then I'd drive it for a day.
Well I got to a point where she was most definately pulling harder....quite
a bit harder. It actually felt quick!! Right off idle, it just goes! But the
idle itself just went to hell. No adjusting of the low speed screw would
make it happy. And during idle, you could smell the exhaust, and it was
surely running too rich...at idle.
So....I guess my question is this: What am I missing? I do believe that the
motor and carburetors are in excellent shape. I tried the lifting of the
pistons while idling, and the front did just what it is supposed to do. It
would speed up a bit, then settle just about where it was. But the back on
would just cause the motor to speed up, and it would stay that way. It would
settle back down, but it would take maybe 30 seconds or more to do so. The
front would come back down much quicker. Now all 6 plugs used to be even in
color, and the initial enrichment tweaking that I had done, I did to both
evenly. So I'm not sure why the back carburetor seemed too rich, while the
front seemed okay. But anyway, I tried leaning out the back. After getting
it so that it did the right thing, I took her for a spin. My new-found power
was gone. So I put it back where it was, and I again have a faster Healey.
But the idle stinks!!! Instead of a steady putt-putt-putt-putt-putt from
each tailpipe, I get a putt-putt-putt-splugeeputer-splugeeputer-putt, putt!
Got that???
Help! Oh...one more carburetor question, I only get about 100 or 200 hundred
miles with the dashpots topped up. I don't know why, but it seems to be
getting sucked up or something. I top both up...and after a number of days,
they're almost empty. I don't get it. The piston assembly does not seem to
be overly worn. I would assume that if the inner sliding shaft was well worn
out, some oil could get sucked into the engine. But I don't think that's the
case....but maybe it is! Any thoughts???
Sorry for such a long letter, but I could use some advice. Thanks in
advance!!
Dave Masucci
BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 23:01:30 -0400
Subject: Very very sorry
My sincerest apologies to the list. I proceeded with deleting the file and
following frogeye's instructions before reading any further emails.
And to James Hart: Yes, I can read. And yes, I get mail. And no, I am not a
"fucking moron". And yes, it appears I did fall for the oldest joke in the
book but that does not make me a "fucking idiot".
Keith Pennell
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 23:04:00 -0400
Subject: My apologies
Keith
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 20:21:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Transmission Tunnel Seal Kit
Make sure when you get it, however, that you don't get
the cheaper foam-style camper seal. You may have to
go to a few different local auto parts suppliers until
you find one selling the stiffer, more durable
neoprene style.
The camper seal is very flexible, typically has great
adhesive on it, and is easily trimmed for any
application or shape.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net> wrote:
> Dear Message Board-
> I am having the Kilmartin manufactured structural
> pieces welded to the floor
> of my 1960 BT7 to make it compatible with the 1965
> Center-Shift Transmission
> Tunnel. The duct tape and tin snipped patchwork
> that up til now formed this
> "seal" was not cutting it in the slightest. Anyway
> I see that Moss does not
> sell the seal kit (681-084) for the tunnel/bulkhead
> any longer. Anyone out
> there know of a source for this center-shift seal
> kit? Or other solutions
> that work? I sincerely appreciate your help.
> Best Regards,
> Matt-
> 1960 BT7
Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
http://health.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 23:37:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Transmission Tunnel Seal Kit
Sometime back someone suggested to try the U shaped material which can be
placed on the bottom flange of the gas tanks for outboard motors. Available
at marine supply stores.
Keith Pennell
> Dear Message Board-
> I am having the Kilmartin manufactured structural pieces welded to the
floor
> of my 1960 BT7 to make it compatible with the 1965 Center-Shift
Transmission
> Tunnel. The duct tape and tin snipped patchwork that up til now formed
this
> "seal" was not cutting it in the slightest. Anyway I see that Moss does
not
> sell the seal kit (681-084) for the tunnel/bulkhead any longer. Anyone
out
> there know of a source for this center-shift seal kit? Or other solutions
> that work? I sincerely appreciate your help.
> Best Regards,
> Matt-
> 1960 BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 21:00:12 -0700
Subject: BN1 front hub distance piece question
How do I tell which one is the right one for the BN1? The clearest
difference between them is that one is about 1.50", and the other
about 1.60", between front and rear faces of the piece. If I had to
guess I would choose the 1.50" pieces since they match the drawings
better for the 100 model and the 1.60" matches the parts list drawings
for the BJ7, etc.
Both would grab the inboard bearing, so that can't be the deciding
factor. It has to be the distance, perhaps room for the shims on the
later models.
At any rate, if someone knows, would they tell me, please?
-Roland
BN1 in recovery, BJ7 driver
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 23:59:31 -0400
Subject: Hepolyte pistons .020
Alain Giguhre
BN7 Bits
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 22:30:08 -0700
Subject: Front Suspension
The front suspension on my BJ8 suffers from excessive positive camber
(greater than the max +3 deg my magnetic base level will indicate). There
is no (obvious) damage, and both sides seem to have the same excessive
positive camber.
The only thing that I can think of that might cause this is the A-arms
being installed incorrectly (upside down). However, it seems as if there
is only one way they can go, so that the securing pins on the king pin fulcrum
are down (nut at the bottom), since the "bottom" has a machined flat spot
for the nut to rest on and the tops are rounded so that the pins fit flush.
The A-arms have a slight bow up (like a smile) when installed this way.
Installed the other (wrong?) way there would be a slight bow down
(like a frown. Sorry, it's late :). All of the catalogs and manuals I have
show this clearly, and the pictures all vary somewhat anyway.
Any ideas? Can anyone send me a digital photo of a known proper
installation?
TIA,
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 23:16:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Tune Up
Many, many, MANY things can cause the myriad of
problems your are facing. Here are a few thoughts and
tips:
1) When you replaced the throttle shafts, you didn't
replace the throttle shaft bushes (or if you did, you
used standard materials). David Nock (british car
specialists) sells teflon throttle shaft bushing
material which I put on my HD8s, and since I've done
that, the idle sits rock solid. Simply replacing the
shafts isn't enough... and you may be getting a little
bit of a vacuum leak in the rear carb causing your
strange symptoms.
2) maybe your distributor cam or bushes are worn,
giving slightly different timing settings for
different cylinders. an easy fix for this is buying
and installing one of the electronic ignition pertonix
kits - I love 'em.
3) Maybe you are running different needles, springs,
or dashpots between the two carbs (alternatively one
of the needles is worn). If your needles are a
different profile between the two carbs, they can give
you the funny performance you describe - I'd suggest
buying two new, matched needles and seeing if that
helps. You might want to make sure your jets are
centred while you are fixing this.
4) HD8s are designed to idle using the big idle speed
screw on the throttle body - the fast idle screw
located on the throttle shaft should not be engaged at
idle. Just checking to see if you are adjusting your
carbs correctly.
5) Your dashpots probably aren't running out of oil.
It sounds like you are topping them up to the top of
the dashpot tops - they only need a few ML's of oil to
function correctly, just enough to fill the piston's
tube to about 1/4 below the top edge of the piston's
oil cavity.
6) Check your throttle & accellerator linkages -
everyone never does this.... make sure there is no
play and you get full travel on the throttle. I ran
my BJ8 for 5 years until I figured out that, with the
way the linkages were set up & adjusted - I was only
getting 5/8ths throttle maximum. I adjusted the
linkage so I can now step on the pedal and get 100%
throttle - I must have added 20-30 HP with this simple
proceedure. This may also explain the imbalance
between the carbs if the cross shaft between the carbs
is not hooked up to each side equally, you'll get
performance imbalances between the carbs.
Hope that helps,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- David Masucci <david_m@radiantsoundworks.com>
wrote:
> Hi Listers,
>
> Two years ago, I rebuilt my BJ8 motor. Since that
> time it's run quite good.
> It pulls okay, and idles okay. At the time of the
> rebuild, I also cleaned
> and rebuilt the HD8 carburetors. I also installed
> new throttle shaft bushes
> in both carbs.
>
> But I've known that it has not been running quite as
> strong as I think it
> should. So after cleaning and gapping the plugs, and
> doing a general
> sprucing up, I decided that I'd start to try and
> tweak it to give it's best
> performance. I thought it seemed to be running a
> slight bit lean, although
> the plugs ALL had the correct color to them. So I
> started with the main jet
> adjusting screws, and I began to enrichen the
> mixture maybe an eighth turn
> at a time. Then I'd drive it for a day.
>
> Well I got to a point where she was most definately
> pulling harder....quite
> a bit harder. It actually felt quick!! Right off
> idle, it just goes! But the
> idle itself just went to hell. No adjusting of the
> low speed screw would
> make it happy. And during idle, you could smell the
> exhaust, and it was
> surely running too rich...at idle.
>
> So....I guess my question is this: What am I
> missing? I do believe that the
> motor and carburetors are in excellent shape. I
> tried the lifting of the
> pistons while idling, and the front did just what it
> is supposed to do. It
> would speed up a bit, then settle just about where
> it was. But the back on
> would just cause the motor to speed up, and it would
> stay that way. It would
> settle back down, but it would take maybe 30 seconds
> or more to do so. The
> front would come back down much quicker. Now all 6
> plugs used to be even in
> color, and the initial enrichment tweaking that I
> had done, I did to both
> evenly. So I'm not sure why the back carburetor
> seemed too rich, while the
> front seemed okay. But anyway, I tried leaning out
> the back. After getting
> it so that it did the right thing, I took her for a
> spin. My new-found power
> was gone. So I put it back where it was, and I again
> have a faster Healey.
> But the idle stinks!!! Instead of a steady
> putt-putt-putt-putt-putt from
> each tailpipe, I get a
> putt-putt-putt-splugeeputer-splugeeputer-putt, putt!
> Got that???
>
> Help! Oh...one more carburetor question, I only get
> about 100 or 200 hundred
> miles with the dashpots topped up. I don't know why,
> but it seems to be
> getting sucked up or something. I top both up...and
> after a number of days,
> they're almost empty. I don't get it. The piston
> assembly does not seem to
> be overly worn. I would assume that if the inner
> sliding shaft was well worn
> out, some oil could get sucked into the engine. But
> I don't think that's the
> case....but maybe it is! Any thoughts???
>
> Sorry for such a long letter, but I could use some
> advice. Thanks in
> advance!!
>
> Dave Masucci
>
> BJ8
Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
http://health.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 23:17:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Tune Up
Many, many, MANY things can cause the myriad of
problems your are facing. Here are a few thoughts and
tips:
1) When you replaced the throttle shafts, you didn't
replace the throttle shaft bushes (or if you did, you
used standard materials). David Nock (british car
specialists) sells teflon throttle shaft bushing
material which I put on my HD8s, and since I've done
that, the idle sits rock solid. Simply replacing the
shafts isn't enough... and you may be getting a little
bit of a vacuum leak in the rear carb causing your
strange symptoms.
2) maybe your distributor cam or bushes are worn,
giving slightly different timing settings for
different cylinders. an easy fix for this is buying
and installing one of the electronic ignition pertonix
kits - I love 'em.
3) Maybe you are running different needles, springs,
or dashpots between the two carbs (alternatively one
of the needles is worn). If your needles are a
different profile between the two carbs, they can give
you the funny performance you describe - I'd suggest
buying two new, matched needles and seeing if that
helps. You might want to make sure your jets are
centred while you are fixing this.
4) HD8s are designed to idle using the big idle speed
screw on the throttle body - the fast idle screw
located on the throttle shaft should not be engaged at
idle. Just checking to see if you are adjusting your
carbs correctly.
5) Your dashpots probably aren't running out of oil.
It sounds like you are topping them up to the top of
the dashpot tops - they only need a few ML's of oil to
function correctly, just enough to fill the piston's
tube to about 1/4 below the top edge of the piston's
oil cavity.
6) Check your throttle & accellerator linkages -
everyone never does this.... make sure there is no
play and you get full travel on the throttle. I ran
my BJ8 for 5 years until I figured out that, with the
way the linkages were set up & adjusted - I was only
getting 5/8ths throttle maximum. I adjusted the
linkage so I can now step on the pedal and get 100%
throttle - I must have added 20-30 HP with this simple
proceedure. This may also explain the imbalance
between the carbs if the cross shaft between the carbs
is not hooked up to each side equally, you'll get
performance imbalances between the carbs.
Hope that helps,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- David Masucci <david_m@radiantsoundworks.com>
wrote:
> Hi Listers,
>
> Two years ago, I rebuilt my BJ8 motor. Since that
> time it's run quite good.
> It pulls okay, and idles okay. At the time of the
> rebuild, I also cleaned
> and rebuilt the HD8 carburetors. I also installed
> new throttle shaft bushes
> in both carbs.
>
> But I've known that it has not been running quite as
> strong as I think it
> should. So after cleaning and gapping the plugs, and
> doing a general
> sprucing up, I decided that I'd start to try and
> tweak it to give it's best
> performance. I thought it seemed to be running a
> slight bit lean, although
> the plugs ALL had the correct color to them. So I
> started with the main jet
> adjusting screws, and I began to enrichen the
> mixture maybe an eighth turn
> at a time. Then I'd drive it for a day.
>
> Well I got to a point where she was most definately
> pulling harder....quite
> a bit harder. It actually felt quick!! Right off
> idle, it just goes! But the
> idle itself just went to hell. No adjusting of the
> low speed screw would
> make it happy. And during idle, you could smell the
> exhaust, and it was
> surely running too rich...at idle.
>
> So....I guess my question is this: What am I
> missing? I do believe that the
> motor and carburetors are in excellent shape. I
> tried the lifting of the
> pistons while idling, and the front did just what it
> is supposed to do. It
> would speed up a bit, then settle just about where
> it was. But the back on
> would just cause the motor to speed up, and it would
> stay that way. It would
> settle back down, but it would take maybe 30 seconds
> or more to do so. The
> front would come back down much quicker. Now all 6
> plugs used to be even in
> color, and the initial enrichment tweaking that I
> had done, I did to both
> evenly. So I'm not sure why the back carburetor
> seemed too rich, while the
> front seemed okay. But anyway, I tried leaning out
> the back. After getting
> it so that it did the right thing, I took her for a
> spin. My new-found power
> was gone. So I put it back where it was, and I again
> have a faster Healey.
> But the idle stinks!!! Instead of a steady
> putt-putt-putt-putt-putt from
> each tailpipe, I get a
> putt-putt-putt-splugeeputer-splugeeputer-putt, putt!
> Got that???
>
> Help! Oh...one more carburetor question, I only get
> about 100 or 200 hundred
> miles with the dashpots topped up. I don't know why,
> but it seems to be
> getting sucked up or something. I top both up...and
> after a number of days,
> they're almost empty. I don't get it. The piston
> assembly does not seem to
> be overly worn. I would assume that if the inner
> sliding shaft was well worn
> out, some oil could get sucked into the engine. But
> I don't think that's the
> case....but maybe it is! Any thoughts???
>
> Sorry for such a long letter, but I could use some
> advice. Thanks in
> advance!!
>
> Dave Masucci
>
> BJ8
Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
http://health.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 23:17:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Tune Up
Many, many, MANY things can cause the myriad of
problems your are facing. Here are a few thoughts and
tips:
1) When you replaced the throttle shafts, you didn't
replace the throttle shaft bushes (or if you did, you
used standard materials). David Nock (british car
specialists) sells teflon throttle shaft bushing
material which I put on my HD8s, and since I've done
that, the idle sits rock solid. Simply replacing the
shafts isn't enough... and you may be getting a little
bit of a vacuum leak in the rear carb causing your
strange symptoms.
2) maybe your distributor cam or bushes are worn,
giving slightly different timing settings for
different cylinders. an easy fix for this is buying
and installing one of the electronic ignition pertonix
kits - I love 'em.
3) Maybe you are running different needles, springs,
or dashpots between the two carbs (alternatively one
of the needles is worn). If your needles are a
different profile between the two carbs, they can give
you the funny performance you describe - I'd suggest
buying two new, matched needles and seeing if that
helps. You might want to make sure your jets are
centred while you are fixing this.
4) HD8s are designed to idle using the big idle speed
screw on the throttle body - the fast idle screw
located on the throttle shaft should not be engaged at
idle. Just checking to see if you are adjusting your
carbs correctly.
5) Your dashpots probably aren't running out of oil.
It sounds like you are topping them up to the top of
the dashpot tops - they only need a few ML's of oil to
function correctly, just enough to fill the piston's
tube to about 1/4 below the top edge of the piston's
oil cavity.
6) Check your throttle & accellerator linkages -
everyone never does this.... make sure there is no
play and you get full travel on the throttle. I ran
my BJ8 for 5 years until I figured out that, with the
way the linkages were set up & adjusted - I was only
getting 5/8ths throttle maximum. I adjusted the
linkage so I can now step on the pedal and get 100%
throttle - I must have added 20-30 HP with this simple
proceedure. This may also explain the imbalance
between the carbs if the cross shaft between the carbs
is not hooked up to each side equally, you'll get
performance imbalances between the carbs.
Hope that helps,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- David Masucci <david_m@radiantsoundworks.com>
wrote:
> Hi Listers,
>
> Two years ago, I rebuilt my BJ8 motor. Since that
> time it's run quite good.
> It pulls okay, and idles okay. At the time of the
> rebuild, I also cleaned
> and rebuilt the HD8 carburetors. I also installed
> new throttle shaft bushes
> in both carbs.
>
> But I've known that it has not been running quite as
> strong as I think it
> should. So after cleaning and gapping the plugs, and
> doing a general
> sprucing up, I decided that I'd start to try and
> tweak it to give it's best
> performance. I thought it seemed to be running a
> slight bit lean, although
> the plugs ALL had the correct color to them. So I
> started with the main jet
> adjusting screws, and I began to enrichen the
> mixture maybe an eighth turn
> at a time. Then I'd drive it for a day.
>
> Well I got to a point where she was most definately
> pulling harder....quite
> a bit harder. It actually felt quick!! Right off
> idle, it just goes! But the
> idle itself just went to hell. No adjusting of the
> low speed screw would
> make it happy. And during idle, you could smell the
> exhaust, and it was
> surely running too rich...at idle.
>
> So....I guess my question is this: What am I
> missing? I do believe that the
> motor and carburetors are in excellent shape. I
> tried the lifting of the
> pistons while idling, and the front did just what it
> is supposed to do. It
> would speed up a bit, then settle just about where
> it was. But the back on
> would just cause the motor to speed up, and it would
> stay that way. It would
> settle back down, but it would take maybe 30 seconds
> or more to do so. The
> front would come back down much quicker. Now all 6
> plugs used to be even in
> color, and the initial enrichment tweaking that I
> had done, I did to both
> evenly. So I'm not sure why the back carburetor
> seemed too rich, while the
> front seemed okay. But anyway, I tried leaning out
> the back. After getting
> it so that it did the right thing, I took her for a
> spin. My new-found power
> was gone. So I put it back where it was, and I again
> have a faster Healey.
> But the idle stinks!!! Instead of a steady
> putt-putt-putt-putt-putt from
> each tailpipe, I get a
> putt-putt-putt-splugeeputer-splugeeputer-putt, putt!
> Got that???
>
> Help! Oh...one more carburetor question, I only get
> about 100 or 200 hundred
> miles with the dashpots topped up. I don't know why,
> but it seems to be
> getting sucked up or something. I top both up...and
> after a number of days,
> they're almost empty. I don't get it. The piston
> assembly does not seem to
> be overly worn. I would assume that if the inner
> sliding shaft was well worn
> out, some oil could get sucked into the engine. But
> I don't think that's the
> case....but maybe it is! Any thoughts???
>
> Sorry for such a long letter, but I could use some
> advice. Thanks in
> advance!!
>
> Dave Masucci
>
> BJ8
Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
http://health.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 23:17:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Tune Up
Many, many, MANY things can cause the myriad of
problems your are facing. Here are a few thoughts and
tips:
1) When you replaced the throttle shafts, you didn't
replace the throttle shaft bushes (or if you did, you
used standard materials). David Nock (british car
specialists) sells teflon throttle shaft bushing
material which I put on my HD8s, and since I've done
that, the idle sits rock solid. Simply replacing the
shafts isn't enough... and you may be getting a little
bit of a vacuum leak in the rear carb causing your
strange symptoms.
2) maybe your distributor cam or bushes are worn,
giving slightly different timing settings for
different cylinders. an easy fix for this is buying
and installing one of the electronic ignition pertonix
kits - I love 'em.
3) Maybe you are running different needles, springs,
or dashpots between the two carbs (alternatively one
of the needles is worn). If your needles are a
different profile between the two carbs, they can give
you the funny performance you describe - I'd suggest
buying two new, matched needles and seeing if that
helps. You might want to make sure your jets are
centred while you are fixing this.
4) HD8s are designed to idle using the big idle speed
screw on the throttle body - the fast idle screw
located on the throttle shaft should not be engaged at
idle. Just checking to see if you are adjusting your
carbs correctly.
5) Your dashpots probably aren't running out of oil.
It sounds like you are topping them up to the top of
the dashpot tops - they only need a few ML's of oil to
function correctly, just enough to fill the piston's
tube to about 1/4 below the top edge of the piston's
oil cavity.
6) Check your throttle & accellerator linkages -
everyone never does this.... make sure there is no
play and you get full travel on the throttle. I ran
my BJ8 for 5 years until I figured out that, with the
way the linkages were set up & adjusted - I was only
getting 5/8ths throttle maximum. I adjusted the
linkage so I can now step on the pedal and get 100%
throttle - I must have added 20-30 HP with this simple
proceedure. This may also explain the imbalance
between the carbs if the cross shaft between the carbs
is not hooked up to each side equally, you'll get
performance imbalances between the carbs.
Hope that helps,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- David Masucci <david_m@radiantsoundworks.com>
wrote:
> Hi Listers,
>
> Two years ago, I rebuilt my BJ8 motor. Since that
> time it's run quite good.
> It pulls okay, and idles okay. At the time of the
> rebuild, I also cleaned
> and rebuilt the HD8 carburetors. I also installed
> new throttle shaft bushes
> in both carbs.
>
> But I've known that it has not been running quite as
> strong as I think it
> should. So after cleaning and gapping the plugs, and
> doing a general
> sprucing up, I decided that I'd start to try and
> tweak it to give it's best
> performance. I thought it seemed to be running a
> slight bit lean, although
> the plugs ALL had the correct color to them. So I
> started with the main jet
> adjusting screws, and I began to enrichen the
> mixture maybe an eighth turn
> at a time. Then I'd drive it for a day.
>
> Well I got to a point where she was most definately
> pulling harder....quite
> a bit harder. It actually felt quick!! Right off
> idle, it just goes! But the
> idle itself just went to hell. No adjusting of the
> low speed screw would
> make it happy. And during idle, you could smell the
> exhaust, and it was
> surely running too rich...at idle.
>
> So....I guess my question is this: What am I
> missing? I do believe that the
> motor and carburetors are in excellent shape. I
> tried the lifting of the
> pistons while idling, and the front did just what it
> is supposed to do. It
> would speed up a bit, then settle just about where
> it was. But the back on
> would just cause the motor to speed up, and it would
> stay that way. It would
> settle back down, but it would take maybe 30 seconds
> or more to do so. The
> front would come back down much quicker. Now all 6
> plugs used to be even in
> color, and the initial enrichment tweaking that I
> had done, I did to both
> evenly. So I'm not sure why the back carburetor
> seemed too rich, while the
> front seemed okay. But anyway, I tried leaning out
> the back. After getting
> it so that it did the right thing, I took her for a
> spin. My new-found power
> was gone. So I put it back where it was, and I again
> have a faster Healey.
> But the idle stinks!!! Instead of a steady
> putt-putt-putt-putt-putt from
> each tailpipe, I get a
> putt-putt-putt-splugeeputer-splugeeputer-putt, putt!
> Got that???
>
> Help! Oh...one more carburetor question, I only get
> about 100 or 200 hundred
> miles with the dashpots topped up. I don't know why,
> but it seems to be
> getting sucked up or something. I top both up...and
> after a number of days,
> they're almost empty. I don't get it. The piston
> assembly does not seem to
> be overly worn. I would assume that if the inner
> sliding shaft was well worn
> out, some oil could get sucked into the engine. But
> I don't think that's the
> case....but maybe it is! Any thoughts???
>
> Sorry for such a long letter, but I could use some
> advice. Thanks in
> advance!!
>
> Dave Masucci
>
> BJ8
Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
http://health.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 23:17:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Tune Up
Many, many, MANY things can cause the myriad of
problems your are facing. Here are a few thoughts and
tips:
1) When you replaced the throttle shafts, you didn't
replace the throttle shaft bushes (or if you did, you
used standard materials). David Nock (british car
specialists) sells teflon throttle shaft bushing
material which I put on my HD8s, and since I've done
that, the idle sits rock solid. Simply replacing the
shafts isn't enough... and you may be getting a little
bit of a vacuum leak in the rear carb causing your
strange symptoms.
2) maybe your distributor cam or bushes are worn,
giving slightly different timing settings for
different cylinders. an easy fix for this is buying
and installing one of the electronic ignition pertonix
kits - I love 'em.
3) Maybe you are running different needles, springs,
or dashpots between the two carbs (alternatively one
of the needles is worn). If your needles are a
different profile between the two carbs, they can give
you the funny performance you describe - I'd suggest
buying two new, matched needles and seeing if that
helps. You might want to make sure your jets are
centred while you are fixing this.
4) HD8s are designed to idle using the big idle speed
screw on the throttle body - the fast idle screw
located on the throttle shaft should not be engaged at
idle. Just checking to see if you are adjusting your
carbs correctly.
5) Your dashpots probably aren't running out of oil.
It sounds like you are topping them up to the top of
the dashpot tops - they only need a few ML's of oil to
function correctly, just enough to fill the piston's
tube to about 1/4 below the top edge of the piston's
oil cavity.
6) Check your throttle & accellerator linkages -
everyone never does this.... make sure there is no
play and you get full travel on the throttle. I ran
my BJ8 for 5 years until I figured out that, with the
way the linkages were set up & adjusted - I was only
getting 5/8ths throttle maximum. I adjusted the
linkage so I can now step on the pedal and get 100%
throttle - I must have added 20-30 HP with this simple
proceedure. This may also explain the imbalance
between the carbs if the cross shaft between the carbs
is not hooked up to each side equally, you'll get
performance imbalances between the carbs.
Hope that helps,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- David Masucci <david_m@radiantsoundworks.com>
wrote:
> Hi Listers,
>
> Two years ago, I rebuilt my BJ8 motor. Since that
> time it's run quite good.
> It pulls okay, and idles okay. At the time of the
> rebuild, I also cleaned
> and rebuilt the HD8 carburetors. I also installed
> new throttle shaft bushes
> in both carbs.
>
> But I've known that it has not been running quite as
> strong as I think it
> should. So after cleaning and gapping the plugs, and
> doing a general
> sprucing up, I decided that I'd start to try and
> tweak it to give it's best
> performance. I thought it seemed to be running a
> slight bit lean, although
> the plugs ALL had the correct color to them. So I
> started with the main jet
> adjusting screws, and I began to enrichen the
> mixture maybe an eighth turn
> at a time. Then I'd drive it for a day.
>
> Well I got to a point where she was most definately
> pulling harder....quite
> a bit harder. It actually felt quick!! Right off
> idle, it just goes! But the
> idle itself just went to hell. No adjusting of the
> low speed screw would
> make it happy. And during idle, you could smell the
> exhaust, and it was
> surely running too rich...at idle.
>
> So....I guess my question is this: What am I
> missing? I do believe that the
> motor and carburetors are in excellent shape. I
> tried the lifting of the
> pistons while idling, and the front did just what it
> is supposed to do. It
> would speed up a bit, then settle just about where
> it was. But the back on
> would just cause the motor to speed up, and it would
> stay that way. It would
> settle back down, but it would take maybe 30 seconds
> or more to do so. The
> front would come back down much quicker. Now all 6
> plugs used to be even in
> color, and the initial enrichment tweaking that I
> had done, I did to both
> evenly. So I'm not sure why the back carburetor
> seemed too rich, while the
> front seemed okay. But anyway, I tried leaning out
> the back. After getting
> it so that it did the right thing, I took her for a
> spin. My new-found power
> was gone. So I put it back where it was, and I again
> have a faster Healey.
> But the idle stinks!!! Instead of a steady
> putt-putt-putt-putt-putt from
> each tailpipe, I get a
> putt-putt-putt-splugeeputer-splugeeputer-putt, putt!
> Got that???
>
> Help! Oh...one more carburetor question, I only get
> about 100 or 200 hundred
> miles with the dashpots topped up. I don't know why,
> but it seems to be
> getting sucked up or something. I top both up...and
> after a number of days,
> they're almost empty. I don't get it. The piston
> assembly does not seem to
> be overly worn. I would assume that if the inner
> sliding shaft was well worn
> out, some oil could get sucked into the engine. But
> I don't think that's the
> case....but maybe it is! Any thoughts???
>
> Sorry for such a long letter, but I could use some
> advice. Thanks in
> advance!!
>
> Dave Masucci
>
> BJ8
Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
http://health.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 23:21:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 100-4/6 Windscreen Pillars
Try adjusting the hood around a bit at the mounts so
it sits without binding against the pillars... also
make sure your hood is properly weatherstripped and
all metal bits on the hood (that come in contact iwht
the pillars) are covered with vynil.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Mark Endicott <mark@nashvilletn.org> wrote:
> Any tricks on keeping the paint on the aluminum
> windscreen pillars on a 100.
> I paint it and next time out I rub it off with while
> the hood is up.
>
>
> Mark
Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
http://health.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "patrick harris" <rotaryman at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 23:37:43 -0700
Subject: 100 m paint and problems
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 01:33:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Very Sorry
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Ron Rader <rader@interworld.net> wrote:
> Dave:
> FYI
> I received four copies of this message
> ron R
>
> Blue One Hundred wrote:
>
> > Dave -
> >
> > Many, many, MANY things can cause the myriad of
> > problems your are facing. Here are a few thoughts
> and
> > tips:
> >
> > 1) When you replaced the throttle shafts, you
> didn't
> > replace the throttle shaft bushes (or if you did,
> you
> > used standard materials). David Nock (british car
> > specialists) sells teflon throttle shaft bushing
> > material which I put on my HD8s, and since I've
> done
> > that, the idle sits rock solid. Simply replacing
> the
> > shafts isn't enough... and you may be getting a
> little
> > bit of a vacuum leak in the rear carb causing your
> > strange symptoms.
> >
> > 2) maybe your distributor cam or bushes are worn,
> > giving slightly different timing settings for
> > different cylinders. an easy fix for this is
> buying
> > and installing one of the electronic ignition
> pertonix
> > kits - I love 'em.
> >
> > 3) Maybe you are running different needles,
> springs,
> > or dashpots between the two carbs (alternatively
> one
> > of the needles is worn). If your needles are a
> > different profile between the two carbs, they can
> give
> > you the funny performance you describe - I'd
> suggest
> > buying two new, matched needles and seeing if that
> > helps. You might want to make sure your jets are
> > centred while you are fixing this.
> >
> > 4) HD8s are designed to idle using the big idle
> speed
> > screw on the throttle body - the fast idle screw
> > located on the throttle shaft should not be
> engaged at
> > idle. Just checking to see if you are adjusting
> your
> > carbs correctly.
> >
> > 5) Your dashpots probably aren't running out of
> oil.
> > It sounds like you are topping them up to the top
> of
> > the dashpot tops - they only need a few ML's of
> oil to
> > function correctly, just enough to fill the
> piston's
> > tube to about 1/4 below the top edge of the
> piston's
> > oil cavity.
> >
> > 6) Check your throttle & accellerator linkages -
> > everyone never does this.... make sure there is no
> > play and you get full travel on the throttle. I
> ran
> > my BJ8 for 5 years until I figured out that, with
> the
> > way the linkages were set up & adjusted - I was
> only
> > getting 5/8ths throttle maximum. I adjusted the
> > linkage so I can now step on the pedal and get
> 100%
> > throttle - I must have added 20-30 HP with this
> simple
> > proceedure. This may also explain the imbalance
> > between the carbs if the cross shaft between the
> carbs
> > is not hooked up to each side equally, you'll get
> > performance imbalances between the carbs.
> >
> > Hope that helps,
> >
> > Alan
> >
> > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> >
> > --- David Masucci <david_m@radiantsoundworks.com>
> > wrote:
> > > Hi Listers,
> > >
> > > Two years ago, I rebuilt my BJ8 motor. Since
> that
> > > time it's run quite good.
> > > It pulls okay, and idles okay. At the time of
> the
> > > rebuild, I also cleaned
> > > and rebuilt the HD8 carburetors. I also
> installed
> > > new throttle shaft bushes
> > > in both carbs.
> > >
> > > But I've known that it has not been running
> quite as
> > > strong as I think it
> > > should. So after cleaning and gapping the plugs,
> and
> > > doing a general
> > > sprucing up, I decided that I'd start to try and
> > > tweak it to give it's best
> > > performance. I thought it seemed to be running a
> > > slight bit lean, although
> > > the plugs ALL had the correct color to them. So
> I
> > > started with the main jet
> > > adjusting screws, and I began to enrichen the
> > > mixture maybe an eighth turn
> > > at a time. Then I'd drive it for a day.
> > >
> > > Well I got to a point where she was most
> definately
> > > pulling harder....quite
> > > a bit harder. It actually felt quick!! Right off
> > > idle, it just goes! But the
> > > idle itself just went to hell. No adjusting of
> the
> > > low speed screw would
> > > make it happy. And during idle, you could smell
> the
> > > exhaust, and it was
> > > surely running too rich...at idle.
> > >
> > > So....I guess my question is this: What am I
> > > missing? I do believe that the
> > > motor and carburetors are in excellent shape. I
> > > tried the lifting of the
> > > pistons while idling, and the front did just
> what it
> > > is supposed to do. It
> > > would speed up a bit, then settle just about
> where
> > > it was. But the back on
> > > would just cause the motor to speed up, and it
> would
> > > stay that way. It would
> > > settle back down, but it would take maybe 30
> seconds
> > > or more to do so. The
> > > front would come back down much quicker. Now all
> 6
> > > plugs used to be even in
> > > color, and the initial enrichment tweaking that
> I
> > > had done, I did to both
> > > evenly. So I'm not sure why the back carburetor
> > > seemed too rich, while the
> > > front seemed okay. But anyway, I tried leaning
> out
> > > the back. After getting
> > > it so that it did the right thing, I took her
> for a
> > > spin. My new-found power
> > > was gone. So I put it back where it was, and I
> again
> > > have a faster Healey.
> > > But the idle stinks!!! Instead of a steady
> > > putt-putt-putt-putt-putt from
> > > each tailpipe, I get a
> > > putt-putt-putt-splugeeputer-splugeeputer-putt,
> putt!
> > > Got that???
> > >
> > > Help! Oh...one more carburetor question, I only
> get
> > > about 100 or 200 hundred
> > > miles with the dashpots topped up. I don't know
> why,
> > > but it seems to be
> > > getting sucked up or something. I top both
> up...and
> > > after a number of days,
> > > they're almost empty. I don't get it. The piston
> > > assembly does not seem to
> > > be overly worn. I would assume that if the inner
> > > sliding shaft was well worn
> > > out, some oil could get sucked into the engine.
> But
> > > I don't think that's the
> > > case....but maybe it is! Any thoughts???
> > >
> > > Sorry for such a long letter, but I could use
> some
>
=== message truncated ===
Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
http://health.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 11:10:00 +0100
Subject: cast aluminium fan
Like John, I've not heard of this happening to cast alloy fans. However, it can
all too easily happen to the fabricated type of fan which has blades riveted to
a central 'hub' - cracks start from the rivet holes.
If you are concerned, why not have it crack tested? At the very least, it will
buy you peace of mind!
Regards
Paul
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 21:48:48 +0100
From: John Harper <John@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: cast aluminum fan
Ted
I personally have never heard of this being a problem and my experience
included this type of fan fitted to various Austin Saloons. The only
thing I would worry about is a fan from a car which has had an accident
and the fan has "gone ploughing" into the radiator. Then I for one would
scrap it.
All the best
>This is scary! I have been told that in the early days that Healeys had
>trouble with cast aluminum (aluminium) fan blades coming apart and tearing up
>the engine compartment. Does anyone on the list know this to be true? My BN1
>has an alloy fan. I have no idea whether it's original or a repop. Should I be
>looking for some kind of modern replacement?
>
>Thanks,
>Ted
>
- --
John Harper
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 12:45:04 +0100
Subject: Sealing
I begin this with a warning.......this may not be of much interest to
those of you in SoCal or other such arid spots :-), but for those of us
in moister climes read on....
The hard top (yes, Dave it is a hard top and yes, I do have a soft top)
on my BN4 fits extremely well, but of late it has started to leak a
little in the rain (see what I mean?) across the top of the screen and I
was wondering whether any of you had any suggestions for a good seal
that I could use. Several of my pals use tank tape (in Colorado Red, or
BRG or whatever) but I was wondering if anybody had a more discreet
solution.
Any ideas (other than "put the soft top back on", please!),
Peter Dzwig
BN4 "Healey D."
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 08:45:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Sealing
I have a hardtop on my 100-4 and I've found that the seal on the leading
edge gets 'crushed' after being installed tight for a long while. By
crushed, I don't really mean greatly deformed, however, enough to allow the
'leak' you describe, which in my case is more of a 'seep'.
I've been getting used to loosening the front fasteners and letting this
seal 'breathe' when not using the car for a couple days. I also use a
silicone spray cleaner to keep it 'moist', but I don't think that is really
helping as much as letting it expand every once in a while.
Keep us informed.
Charley Braum
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 09:48:44 -0400
Subject: Please disregard -- DELETE -- no content test
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jag62e at aol.com
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 10:13:30 EDT
Subject: Re: Front Suspension
<<
The front suspension on my BJ8 suffers from excessive positive camber
(greater than the max +3 deg my magnetic base level will indicate). There
is no (obvious) damage, and both sides seem to have the same excessive
positive camber. >>
I had a similar problem. Check that someone hasn't placed shims under the
shock mounting bolts. (tilting the shock will move the king pin). I solved
my problem by installing upper bushings with offset holes which will allow
adjustment.
Dick North
BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 01:03:30 +1000
Subject: Re: Front Suspension
What are the numbers stamped into the shock arms? A longer shock arm is
practically undetectable to the naked eye - but about 3.5mm =1 degree i.e.if
you have fitted shocks with say 6 - 8mm longer arms - you'll end up with 3
degrees positive camber.
Alternatively - if you fit lower lower wishbone arms which are shorter (in
the same proportions as the shock arms) - you'll get the same result.
Did you ever install 'exchange reconditioned shocks'?? Did they come off a
BMC sedan? Where did the wishbones (lower arms) come from?
A lot of BMC sedans have 'almost identical' components to healeys - which is
great (not only because there are lots of good 'donor cars' out there!!) -
but also because some BMC sedans also have shocks with shorter (than Healey)
arms - which means you can also easily get negative camber. But unless you
measure before you use them - this choice of parts works against us.
Fitting a camber adjusting bush (ie offset, ecccentric) in the top trunion
will typically only give you about 3/4 of a degree adjustment. Measure your
shock arms from trunion centre to shock shaft centre. They should be around
210 - 212mm if they are Healey - if you measure accurately in a straight
line using an 'L' shaped made up ruler (when you try to measure them -
you'll understand what I'm trying to explain). You can get them as short as
198mm.
Hope this helps
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 08, 2002 3:30 PM
Subject: Front Suspension
> Listers,
>
> The front suspension on my BJ8 suffers from excessive positive camber
> (greater than the max +3 deg my magnetic base level will indicate). There
> is no (obvious) damage, and both sides seem to have the same excessive
> positive camber.
>
> The only thing that I can think of that might cause this is the A-arms
> being installed incorrectly (upside down). However, it seems as if there
> is only one way they can go, so that the securing pins on the king pin
fulcrum
> are down (nut at the bottom), since the "bottom" has a machined flat spot
> for the nut to rest on and the tops are rounded so that the pins fit
flush.
> The A-arms have a slight bow up (like a smile) when installed this way.
> Installed the other (wrong?) way there would be a slight bow down
> (like a frown. Sorry, it's late :). All of the catalogs and manuals I
have
> show this clearly, and the pictures all vary somewhat anyway.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From DMMax at aol.com
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 11:59:35 EDT
Subject: Re: Got Mallory ?
Thanks for your thoughts. I've had my Mallory quite awhile too.
Yes, it has been faultless, save two things:
1. Oil leak up the shaft, which vents out bottom of distributor body. (
Norman Nock suggests having Mallory fix it. Thank you Norman )
2. Tune-up parts are so bloody expensive. Two seasons cost more than an
electronic ignition "solution."
But it sure does look cool, and is alleged to aid in high rpm HP. I haven't
used the stock distr. since my first year of having ..... the car. I have
since rebuilt and hotted-up the motor, so I have no reference point.
Any thoughts on the performance enhancement of the duel-point?
To the list:
This topic may have been, actually as I recall, has been somewhat parsed out
in the past and might well be "in the archives". Almost everything is. There
is still a place for 'real time discussion and information'.
Cheers, David Maxwell / Mrs. Peel
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 12:38:29 -0400
Subject: Yellow Pantene Healey
Later, the owner sent me an e-mail note saying that a Hollywood ad agency
had "borrowed" his 4-sale car, painting it yellow for the Pantene
commercial, and would I mind if it now had a new paint job? I asked him
about the quality of the paint job, but he never replied, and our discussion
tapered off! FYI.
== Alex in Maine
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 14:05:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Got Mallory ?
I have had a Mallory Dual Point in my BN6 since 1994, and never had a
problem with it. I bought spare points and condenser, and they are still in
their wrappers. Also have a Mallory in the racecar for six seasons now, and
again, no problems....No oil leaks, no points deterioration. I did have to
adjust the gap once, but that's all. I don't know for sure about
performance, but if set up right, it should be better because you can adjust
the advance curve on the Mallory to suit your application (probably need to
do it on a dyno).
Just my $.02.
Jim
PS: BTW, thanks again for the photo and the CD.
----- Original Message -----
From: <DMMax@aol.com>
To: <mikebn2@win.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 08, 2002 11:59 AM
Subject: Re: Got Mallory ?
> Mike,
>
> Thanks for your thoughts. I've had my Mallory quite awhile too.
>
> Yes, it has been faultless, save two things:
>
> 1. Oil leak up the shaft, which vents out bottom of distributor body. (
> Norman Nock suggests having Mallory fix it. Thank you Norman )
>
> 2. Tune-up parts are so bloody expensive. Two seasons cost more than an
> electronic ignition "solution."
>
> But it sure does look cool, and is alleged to aid in high rpm HP. I
haven't
> used the stock distr. since my first year of having ..... the car. I have
> since rebuilt and hotted-up the motor, so I have no reference point.
>
> Any thoughts on the performance enhancement of the duel-point?
>
> To the list:
> This topic may have been, actually as I recall, has been somewhat parsed
out
> in the past and might well be "in the archives". Almost everything is.
There
> is still a place for 'real time discussion and information'.
>
> Cheers, David Maxwell / Mrs. Peel
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 12:21:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: re. 100 m paint and problems
PPG #12120
Dupont Centari #25884A (single stage)
Joe Mulqueen
'60 BT7 (bare chassis soon to be blasted and painted
blue)
Torrance, CA
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 23:37:43 -0700
From: "patrick harris" <rotaryman@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: 100 m paint and problems
.......Also I am using ICI base coat clear coat paint
with the ici 2301m code as listed in numerous
guides for my car. do you have any other formulas or
comments on correct paint for bn2 two tone healey blue
and white 56 car......
Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
http://health.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 15:03:21 -0500
Subject: Poly bushings
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 528 (New census numbers)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 16:33:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Front Suspension
> In a message dated 05/07/2002 10:33:15 PM US Mountain Standard Time,
> bspidell@pacbell.net writes:
>
> <<
> The front suspension on my BJ8 suffers from excessive positive camber
> (greater than the max +3 deg my magnetic base level will indicate).
There
> is no (obvious) damage, and both sides seem to have the same excessive
> positive camber. >>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John <john4 at attbi.com>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 13:36:28 -0700
Subject: OpenRoads 2002--Concours judging
OpenRoads 2002
408-541-9608
408-541-9320 FAX
408-373-6479 Cellphone
john4@attbi.com
Concours at OpenRoads 2002 to be held on June 24
SUNNYVALE California (USA) -- May 7, 2002 - Judging for Healeys entered
into Concours at the OpenRoads 2002 Healey International at Lake Tahoe will
be held in conjunction with the Popular Choice Car Show on Monday, June 24,
at the Lake Tahoe Middle School in South Lake Tahoe CA.
The OpenRoads 2002 Healey International will be held June 23-28,
2002 at the Horizon Casino and Resort in Stateline NV (Lake Tahoe South
Shore). The event celebrates the 50th anniversary of the first
Austin-Healey, the 100, and the popularity and longevity of all Big
Healeys, Sprites, Jensen Healeys and other cars bearing the Healey Marque.
At the close of registration on May 1, 24 cars had registered for
concours judging: 2 100Ms; 1 100S; 1 AN5; 6 BJ8s; 8 100s; 3 100-6s 2 BT7s
and 1 Nash-Healey. Thirteen of the cars are from California; 2 from
Colorado, 1 from Kansas, 1 from Massachusetts, 1 from Michigan, 1 from New
Jersey, 2 from Ohio, 2 from Ontario and 1 from Oregon. A meeting of all
those involved with OpenRoads 2002 concours will be held at the Horizon on
Sunday June 23 from 4 PM to 6 PM.
Other scheduled events during OpenRoads 2002 include a Popular
Choice Car Show, a competitive TSD Rallye and an Observation Rallye through
the back roads and passes of the Lake Tahoe area, a day of autocrossing,
timed runs and funkhana at the Lake Tahoe Airport and an Around the Lake Tour.
For further information on Concours or if you wish to register
you car for judging, contact John Soderling at jsoderling@aol.com.
###
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Trevor A Bentley <trevor at atomiccartoons.com>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 14:26:55 -0700
Subject: OpenRoads 2002 video?
Thanks, Trevor
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 17:50:13 EDT
Subject: BJ8 for sale
If you are interested please contact Joe Adams. His cell phone is
410-991-4484.
Roger
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 18:58:25 -0400
Subject: RE: Hepolite pistons
On the advice of my engine builder, I ordered .020 Hepolite pistons
from a UK supplier and received what I thought was the wrong item.
The manufacturer is Federal Mogul, the box is blue and the actual
brand is AE. More importantly, the pistons have a 5th oil scraper
ring, below the gudgeon (wrist) pin and a flat top. That makes them
Hepolite type pistons, I guess, though I thought they would have a
dished top. Moreover, some UK suppliers sell these as Hepolite
pistons.
My (hopeful) assumption is that the Hepolite company was bought out
long ago and these will give me the same benefits.
Let the learning begin...
Alain Giguhre
BN7 Bits
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From deemi at juno.com
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 18:59:19 -0400
Subject: Morgan British plate ID
I know there are those with great knowledge on this list, and
have a Morgan with a GOX 847D a black plate with silver letters.
I wonder if this is a british or french plate as the fog and LR lamps
have yellow lenses
morgan 4/4 belongs to a good friend of mine and hoping to help him out.
Best Regards,
Bob Bowie in Maine
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Robert Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 19:24:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Morgan British plate ID
deemi@juno.com wrote:
> Hi, hoping for a bit of help,
>
> I know there are those with great knowledge on this list, and
> have a Morgan with a GOX 847D a black plate with silver letters.
>
> I wonder if this is a british or french plate as the fog and LR lamps
> have yellow lenses
>
> morgan 4/4 belongs to a good friend of mine and hoping to help him out.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Bob Bowie in Maine
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "patrick harris" <rotaryman at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 16:29:08 -0700
Subject: my emmmmmma
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 00:33:18 +0100
Subject: Re: Morgan British plate ID
That will be a UK number plate from 1966. Yellow lenses were often used
for fog lamps as they were/are supposed to be more effective. There is a
web site which will tell you whereabouts in the UK the car was first
registered (probably Oxford), but I can't find it immediately - perhaps
someone else will respond.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 16:55:32 -0700
Subject: Fw: Roadster Hardtop Available
I don't know how we did this, but between Roy and I, we got the price
crossed up!
The asking price for this hardtop is $2200.00 USD, not as below!
Sorry for the confusion.
Earl Kagna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: "Roy & Lis Moore" <lisroy@islandnet.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 05, 2002 9:14 AM
Subject: Roadster Hardtop Available
Listers:
A friend of mine who is not a subscriber has asked me to post this message.
For sale: One 6 cyl 4 seater roadster hardtop in good to excellent
condition. This top is unrestored and is complete, missing only the 'J'
hook clamps and wing nuts, and the rear top to body sealing rubber, which
was removed to adapt the top to fit a 2 seat car by a previous owner. Rear
window and rear window rubber is in excellent condition. Original headling
material is undamaged, could use a bit of cleaning, glueing, etc.
Top is painted Old English White. Date stamped on right side frame is
12/59. Can be used as is without restoration, with a couple of new rubber
pieces and a new windlace set.
The asking price is $3,900 USD. Top is located in Victoria, B.C.
For more information, contact the vendor, Roy Moore at 250-658-1429, or
e-mail him - lisroy@islandnet.com
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7
'67 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 17:13:39 -0700
Subject: Re: Hepolite pistons
When I re-built my BJ8 engine in the winter of 1984 - 85, I ordered pistons
from the UK and got a Hepolite 5-ring piston (.030 over in my case). I
recall that the boxes were actually labelled 'Hepolite'
My engine builder figured that the extra ring below the pin was an
advantage - more support in the skirt area of the piston. I was a bit
dubious, since the engines were originally built with four-ring pistons, but
we went ahead anyway, mainly since we couldn't get anything else!
I can tell you now that it was not at all a mistake - the re-built motor is
approaching 100,000 miles, and still runs beautifully, always did! Other
than for racing applications (more friction), I can't think of a downside to
using 5-ring pistons. Maybe some other listers would care to comment about
this.
On the brand names, I have no clue as to what's going on. A friend here
just received a shipment of 6 cyl pistons from a UK source - they were
Hepolites. My guess is that your supplier simply sent you what they had -
there are several piston manufacturers. I would bet that you're just fine
with what you've got.
Isn't it fun!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alain Giguhre" <agig@sympatico.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 08, 2002 3:58 PM
Subject: RE: Hepolite pistons
I am in the process of learning all about pistons, so I figure some
guys on the list might benefit.
On the advice of my engine builder, I ordered .020 Hepolite pistons
from a UK supplier and received what I thought was the wrong item.
The manufacturer is Federal Mogul, the box is blue and the actual
brand is AE. More importantly, the pistons have a 5th oil scraper
ring, below the gudgeon (wrist) pin and a flat top. That makes them
Hepolite type pistons, I guess, though I thought they would have a
dished top. Moreover, some UK suppliers sell these as Hepolite
pistons.
My (hopeful) assumption is that the Hepolite company was bought out
long ago and these will give me the same benefits.
Let the learning begin...
Alain Giguhre
BN7 Bits
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette at attbi.com>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 20:33:06 -0400
Subject: Lucas SR576 yellow lenses?
How tough is it to find the yellow style lenses for the Lucas
SR576 lamps?
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 17:45:43 -0700
Subject: Re: Front Suspension
The shocks have been rebuilt, twice, once by Apple and once by
Worldwide. I believe I got the originals back both times since one
has an oversized mount hole (of course, they could have swapped the
arms, I guess).
The arms measure the same--at least as near as I can measure with
a tape--as a pair of (what I believe are) "first run" shocks for a BJ8 I
bought from another Lister. They measure (roughly) 8 & 1/8 inch center
of shaft to center of top fulcrum pin hole.
The lower wishbones came with the car, which I bought at 64,000 miles
and I believe to be original, except for a paint job and an (apparent)
engine rebuild.
I'm stumped.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Hi Bob,
>
> What are the numbers stamped into the shock arms? A longer shock arm is
> practically undetectable to the naked eye - but about 3.5mm =1 degree i.e.if
> you have fitted shocks with say 6 - 8mm longer arms - you'll end up with 3
> degrees positive camber.
>
> Alternatively - if you fit lower lower wishbone arms which are shorter (in
> the same proportions as the shock arms) - you'll get the same result.
>
> Did you ever install 'exchange reconditioned shocks'?? Did they come off a
> BMC sedan? Where did the wishbones (lower arms) come from?
>
> A lot of BMC sedans have 'almost identical' components to healeys - which is
> great (not only because there are lots of good 'donor cars' out there!!) -
> but also because some BMC sedans also have shocks with shorter (than Healey)
> arms - which means you can also easily get negative camber. But unless you
> measure before you use them - this choice of parts works against us.
>
> Fitting a camber adjusting bush (ie offset, ecccentric) in the top trunion
> will typically only give you about 3/4 of a degree adjustment. Measure your
> shock arms from trunion centre to shock shaft centre. They should be around
> 210 - 212mm if they are Healey - if you measure accurately in a straight
> line using an 'L' shaped made up ruler (when you try to measure them -
> you'll understand what I'm trying to explain). You can get them as short as
> 198mm.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> Chris
>
>
> > Listers,
> >
> > The front suspension on my BJ8 suffers from excessive positive camber
> > (greater than the max +3 deg my magnetic base level will indicate). There
> > is no (obvious) damage, and both sides seem to have the same excessive
> > positive camber.
> >
> > The only thing that I can think of that might cause this is the A-arms
> > being installed incorrectly (upside down). However, it seems as if there
> > is only one way they can go, so that the securing pins on the king pin
> fulcrum
> > are down (nut at the bottom), since the "bottom" has a machined flat spot
> > for the nut to rest on and the tops are rounded so that the pins fit
> flush.
> > The A-arms have a slight bow up (like a smile) when installed this way.
> > Installed the other (wrong?) way there would be a slight bow down
> > (like a frown. Sorry, it's late :). All of the catalogs and manuals I
> have
> > show this clearly, and the pictures all vary somewhat anyway.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 17:53:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Front Suspension
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> I'va also observed this camber problem when the toe in setting was out of
> spec. It's amazing how much this will affect the appearance of the camber.
> Rich Chrysler
>
> > In a message dated 05/07/2002 10:33:15 PM US Mountain Standard Time,
> > bspidell@pacbell.net writes:
> >
> > <<
> > The front suspension on my BJ8 suffers from excessive positive camber
> > (greater than the max +3 deg my magnetic base level will indicate).
> There
> > is no (obvious) damage, and both sides seem to have the same excessive
> > positive camber. >>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 18:19:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Hepolite pistons
I put the five ring AE's (hepolites) .40 overs in my
BJ8 about 70,000 miles ago against the advice of my
british mechanic (he suggested tossing 2 of the
rings). As a Mechanical Engineer, however, I had
studied that rings & cylinders experience little wear
once set, and require almost no lubrication to work
properly - as a result, I took a leap of faith that
five rings would last a long time and keep oil burning
to a minimum.
Voila - 70K miles later the engine runs perfectly and
burns no oil whatsover, and compression sits rock
solid & even in all cylinders. The five ring pistons
are perfectly fine.
By the way, the 40 overs are used to bore to 2.998
Liters, I believe - this size originally preferred by
racers in the 3 liter class.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca> wrote:
> Alain:
>
> When I re-built my BJ8 engine in the winter of 1984
> - 85, I ordered pistons
> from the UK and got a Hepolite 5-ring piston (.030
> over in my case). I
> recall that the boxes were actually labelled
> 'Hepolite'
>
> My engine builder figured that the extra ring below
> the pin was an
> advantage - more support in the skirt area of the
> piston. I was a bit
> dubious, since the engines were originally built
> with four-ring pistons, but
> we went ahead anyway, mainly since we couldn't get
> anything else!
>
> I can tell you now that it was not at all a mistake
> - the re-built motor is
> approaching 100,000 miles, and still runs
> beautifully, always did! Other
> than for racing applications (more friction), I
> can't think of a downside to
> using 5-ring pistons. Maybe some other listers
> would care to comment about
> this.
>
> On the brand names, I have no clue as to what's
> going on. A friend here
> just received a shipment of 6 cyl pistons from a UK
> source - they were
> Hepolites. My guess is that your supplier simply
> sent you what they had -
> there are several piston manufacturers. I would bet
> that you're just fine
> with what you've got.
>
> Isn't it fun!
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B.C. Canada
> '62 BT7
> '67 BJ8
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Alain Giguhre" <agig@sympatico.ca>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 08, 2002 3:58 PM
> Subject: RE: Hepolite pistons
>
>
> I am in the process of learning all about pistons,
> so I figure some
> guys on the list might benefit.
>
> On the advice of my engine builder, I ordered .020
> Hepolite pistons
> from a UK supplier and received what I thought was
> the wrong item.
>
> The manufacturer is Federal Mogul, the box is blue
> and the actual
> brand is AE. More importantly, the pistons have a
> 5th oil scraper
> ring, below the gudgeon (wrist) pin and a flat top.
> That makes them
> Hepolite type pistons, I guess, though I thought
> they would have a
> dished top. Moreover, some UK suppliers sell these
> as Hepolite
> pistons.
>
> My (hopeful) assumption is that the Hepolite
> company was bought out
> long ago and these will give me the same benefits.
>
> Let the learning begin...
>
> Alain Giguhre
> BN7 Bits
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 18:41:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Lucas SR576 yellow lenses?
I'm not aware of Yellow SLR576s ever being made, but
another company made a very similar light called the
Miller. Sometimes you see them used, try this
company, I think they have a few:
www.autochron.co.uk
Select "lighting" and scroll down till you see the
miller light. It looks like a yellow SLR576
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Mike Brouillette <brouillette@attbi.com> wrote:
> Folks,
>
> How tough is it to find the yellow style lenses for
> the Lucas
> SR576 lamps?
>
> Mike Brouillette
> 59 BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 21:56:28 EDT
Subject: Zip files
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Join us for Springthing 2002. May 16-19 in Corydon, IN. Visit the web site at
<A HREF="http://www.springthing.info";>www.springthing.info</A> for a preview
and registration information.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 23:39:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Lucas SR576 yellow lenses?
I have a set of NOS yellow SLR576 Lucas Lights. I would like to find out if
the yellow SFT576 (fluted fog lamp lenses) are available so that I can mount
one of each on the car as was popular in the 50s and 60s.
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
In a message dated 5/8/02 6:43:42 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
international_investor@yahoo.com writes:
<< 'm not aware of Yellow SLR576s ever being made, but another company made a
very similar light called the Miller. Sometimes you see them used, try this
company, I think they have a few: >>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 01:18:12 EDT
Subject: Re: Lucas SR576 yellow lenses?
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 01:24:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Lucas SR576 yellow lenses?
Scroll down to the Miller light or the Miller Lite?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 23:27:39 +0000
Subject: Moss Bullet Mirrors
Rich
Huntington Beach, CA
BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 07:49:06 +0100
Subject: Re: Morgan British plate ID
It is possible that Morgan registered the car at their works prior to
delivery to the first owner.
All the best
>In message <20020508.185920.-16450405.2.deemi@juno.com>, deemi@juno.com
>writes
>>Hi, hoping for a bit of help,
>>
>>I know there are those with great knowledge on this list, and have a
>>Morgan with a GOX 847D a black plate with silver letters.
>>
>>I wonder if this is a british or french plate as the fog and LR lamps
>>have yellow lenses
>>
>>morgan 4/4 belongs to a good friend of mine and hoping to help him out.
>>
>>Best Regards,
>>
>>
>>Bob Bowie in Maine
>
>
>That will be a UK number plate from 1966. Yellow lenses were often used
>for fog lamps as they were/are supposed to be more effective. There is a
>web site which will tell you whereabouts in the UK the car was first
>registered (probably Oxford), but I can't find it immediately - perhaps
>someone else will respond.
--
John Harper
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 21:13:20 +1000
Subject: Re: Front Suspension
As your shock arms are 206mm (8.125 in) - which in normal circumstances
means you should have half a degree negative camber - there can now only be
4 possible reasons for your excessive (greater than 3 degrees) positive
camber:
1. You have the top trunions on "back to front" The trunion pin 'hole'
should be on the 'wheelside' of the kingpin - not the 'engine' side. This
would give very dramatic & excessive positive camber. ie fitted like 'q' not
like 'p'
2. The shock mounting plates are welded on way too far 'out' from the
centre of the car. They would almost have to be overhanging the tower.
Possible - but unlikely (we hope).
3. The lower wishbones have no chassis bushes in them - or the wishbones
are at least 12 - 15 mm (half an inch) shorter than a standard healey.
4. The kingpins are back to front - the fulcrum pin should be wheelside
of the wishbones/kingpin ie fitted like 'd' not like 'b'
Bob- you said earlier that you had 'more than 3 degrees positive camber' -
can you guess how much more??
Measured in a straight line, work on 3.8mm = 1 degree - so there is 6 mm in
the arms plus 7 mm in the first 2 degrees of positive (=13mm = 1/2 an inch)
plus 3.8 mm per degree of camber over 3 degrees. ie you are looking for a
discrepancy of 13mm (half an inch) plus whatever positive camber you have
past 3 degrees. If you have say 6 or 7 degrees - then my money is on 1.
above. If it is closer to 4 degrees - then I'd measure the bottom wishbones,
check the king pin installation, and check the wishbone/chassis bushings. If
you know how much distance you are looking for - it might be easier to
find!!
Tell me which way around your trunions are; whcih way around your king pins
are and how long your lower wishbones are - and I think we will have an
answer!
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2002 10:45 AM
Subject: Re: Front Suspension
> Chris,
>
> The shocks have been rebuilt, twice, once by Apple and once by
> Worldwide. I believe I got the originals back both times since one
> has an oversized mount hole (of course, they could have swapped the
> arms, I guess).
>
> The arms measure the same--at least as near as I can measure with
> a tape--as a pair of (what I believe are) "first run" shocks for a BJ8 I
> bought from another Lister. They measure (roughly) 8 & 1/8 inch center
> of shaft to center of top fulcrum pin hole.
>
> The lower wishbones came with the car, which I bought at 64,000 miles
> and I believe to be original, except for a paint job and an (apparent)
> engine rebuild.
>
> I'm stumped.
>
> Bob
> *****************************************************
> Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> *****************************************************
>
>
> > Hi Bob,
> >
> > What are the numbers stamped into the shock arms? A longer shock arm is
> > practically undetectable to the naked eye - but about 3.5mm =1 degree
i.e.if
> > you have fitted shocks with say 6 - 8mm longer arms - you'll end up with
3
> > degrees positive camber.
> >
> > Alternatively - if you fit lower lower wishbone arms which are shorter
(in
> > the same proportions as the shock arms) - you'll get the same result.
> >
> > Did you ever install 'exchange reconditioned shocks'?? Did they come off
a
> > BMC sedan? Where did the wishbones (lower arms) come from?
> >
> > A lot of BMC sedans have 'almost identical' components to healeys -
which is
> > great (not only because there are lots of good 'donor cars' out
here!!) -
> > but also because some BMC sedans also have shocks with shorter (than
Healey)
> > arms - which means you can also easily get negative camber. But unless
you
> > measure before you use them - this choice of parts works against us.
> >
> > Fitting a camber adjusting bush (ie offset, ecccentric) in the top
trunion
> > will typically only give you about 3/4 of a degree adjustment. Measure
your
> > shock arms from trunion centre to shock shaft centre. They should be
around
> > 210 - 212mm if they are Healey - if you measure accurately in a straight
> > line using an 'L' shaped made up ruler (when you try to measure them -
> > you'll understand what I'm trying to explain). You can get them as short
as
> > 198mm.
> >
> > Hope this helps
> >
> > Chris
> >
> >
> > > Listers,
> > >
> > > The front suspension on my BJ8 suffers from excessive positive camber
> > > (greater than the max +3 deg my magnetic base level will indicate).
There
> > > is no (obvious) damage, and both sides seem to have the same excessive
> > > positive camber.
> > >
> > > The only thing that I can think of that might cause this is the A-arms
> > > being installed incorrectly (upside down). However, it seems as if
there
> > > is only one way they can go, so that the securing pins on the king pin
> > fulcrum
> > > are down (nut at the bottom), since the "bottom" has a machined flat
spot
> > > for the nut to rest on and the tops are rounded so that the pins fit
> > flush.
> > > The A-arms have a slight bow up (like a smile) when installed this
way.
> > > Installed the other (wrong?) way there would be a slight bow down
> > > (like a frown. Sorry, it's late :). All of the catalogs and manuals I
> > have
> > > show this clearly, and the pictures all vary somewhat anyway.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 21:57:30 +1000
Subject: Fw: Front Suspension - try again!!
Sorry - it's getting late, and its been a looong day!! So now there are 3
options I can think of!!
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2002 9:13 PM
Subject: Re: Front Suspension
> Ok Bob,
>
> As your shock arms are 206mm (8.125 in) - which in normal circumstances
> means you should have half a degree negative camber - there can now only
be
> 4 possible reasons for your excessive (greater than 3 degrees) positive
> camber:
>
> 1. You have the top trunions on "back to front" The trunion pin 'hole'
> should be on the 'wheelside' of the kingpin - not the 'engine' side. This
> would give very dramatic & excessive positive camber. ie fitted like 'q'
not
> like 'p'
> 2. The shock mounting plates are welded on way too far 'out' from the
> centre of the car. They would almost have to be overhanging the tower.
> Possible - but unlikely (we hope).
> 3. The lower wishbones have no chassis bushes in them - or the
wishbones
> are at least 12 - 15 mm (half an inch) shorter than a standard healey.
> 4. The kingpins are back to front - the fulcrum pin should be wheelside
> of the wishbones/kingpin ie fitted like 'd' not like 'b'
>
> Bob- you said earlier that you had 'more than 3 degrees positive camber' -
> can you guess how much more??
>
> Measured in a straight line, work on 3.8mm = 1 degree - so there is 6 mm
in
> the arms plus 7 mm in the first 2 degrees of positive (=13mm = 1/2 an
inch)
> plus 3.8 mm per degree of camber over 3 degrees. ie you are looking for a
> discrepancy of 13mm (half an inch) plus whatever positive camber you have
> past 3 degrees. If you have say 6 or 7 degrees - then my money is on 1.
> above. If it is closer to 4 degrees - then I'd measure the bottom
wishbones,
> check the king pin installation, and check the wishbone/chassis bushings.
If
> you know how much distance you are looking for - it might be easier to
> find!!
>
> Tell me which way around your trunions are; whcih way around your king
pins
> are and how long your lower wishbones are - and I think we will have an
> answer!
>
> Best regards
>
> Chris
> ______________________________________
>
> Chris Dimmock
> Sydney Australia
>
> http://www.myaustinhealey.com
> ______________________________________
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2002 10:45 AM
> Subject: Re: Front Suspension
>
>
> > Chris,
> >
> > The shocks have been rebuilt, twice, once by Apple and once by
> > Worldwide. I believe I got the originals back both times since one
> > has an oversized mount hole (of course, they could have swapped the
> > arms, I guess).
> >
> > The arms measure the same--at least as near as I can measure with
> > a tape--as a pair of (what I believe are) "first run" shocks for a BJ8 I
> > bought from another Lister. They measure (roughly) 8 & 1/8 inch center
> > of shaft to center of top fulcrum pin hole.
> >
> > The lower wishbones came with the car, which I bought at 64,000 miles
> > and I believe to be original, except for a paint job and an (apparent)
> > engine rebuild.
> >
> > I'm stumped.
> >
> > Bob
> > *****************************************************
> > Bob Spidell
> bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> > San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com
(work)
> > `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> > *****************************************************
> >
> >
> > > Hi Bob,
> > >
> > > What are the numbers stamped into the shock arms? A longer shock arm
is
> > > practically undetectable to the naked eye - but about 3.5mm =1 degree
> i.e.if
> > > you have fitted shocks with say 6 - 8mm longer arms - you'll end up
with
> 3
> > > degrees positive camber.
> > >
> > > Alternatively - if you fit lower lower wishbone arms which are shorter
> (in
> > > the same proportions as the shock arms) - you'll get the same result.
> > >
> > > Did you ever install 'exchange reconditioned shocks'?? Did they come
off
> a
> > > BMC sedan? Where did the wishbones (lower arms) come from?
> > >
> > > A lot of BMC sedans have 'almost identical' components to healeys -
> which is
> > > great (not only because there are lots of good 'donor cars' out
> here!!) -
> > > but also because some BMC sedans also have shocks with shorter (than
> Healey)
> > > arms - which means you can also easily get negative camber. But unless
> you
> > > measure before you use them - this choice of parts works against us.
> > >
> > > Fitting a camber adjusting bush (ie offset, ecccentric) in the top
> trunion
> > > will typically only give you about 3/4 of a degree adjustment. Measure
> your
> > > shock arms from trunion centre to shock shaft centre. They should be
> around
> > > 210 - 212mm if they are Healey - if you measure accurately in a
straight
> > > line using an 'L' shaped made up ruler (when you try to measure them -
> > > you'll understand what I'm trying to explain). You can get them as
short
> as
> > > 198mm.
> > >
> > > Hope this helps
> > >
> > > Chris
> > >
> > >
> > > > Listers,
> > > >
> > > > The front suspension on my BJ8 suffers from excessive positive
camber
> > > > (greater than the max +3 deg my magnetic base level will indicate).
> There
> > > > is no (obvious) damage, and both sides seem to have the same
excessive
> > > > positive camber.
> > > >
> > > > The only thing that I can think of that might cause this is the
A-arms
> > > > being installed incorrectly (upside down). However, it seems as if
> there
> > > > is only one way they can go, so that the securing pins on the king
pin
> > > fulcrum
> > > > are down (nut at the bottom), since the "bottom" has a machined flat
> spot
> > > > for the nut to rest on and the tops are rounded so that the pins fit
> > > flush.
> > > > The A-arms have a slight bow up (like a smile) when installed this
> way.
> > > > Installed the other (wrong?) way there would be a slight bow down
> > > > (like a frown. Sorry, it's late :). All of the catalogs and manuals
I
> > > have
> > > > show this clearly, and the pictures all vary somewhat anyway.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 07:59:48 -0400
Subject: RE: Front Suspension
One thing that can be easily checked and is critical to the camber
setting is the position of the shock mounting plates.
If possible lay a straight edge across both plates, they should be on
exactly the same plane and from the diagram in your workshop manual you
can get a dimension to check the distance that they should be from each
other.
This is somewhat more difficult than it sounds if the engine is in the
car!!
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
> > The front suspension on my BJ8 suffers from excessive positive
camber
> > (greater than the max +3 deg my magnetic base level will indicate).
> There
> > is no (obvious) damage, and both sides seem to have the same
excessive
> > positive camber. >>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 08:25:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Lucas SR576 yellow lenses?
Another resource worth browsing is Holden Vintage & Classics
http://www.holden.co.uk/ . They carry a lot of vintage British car products.
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 07:40:45 -0600
Subject: Pre-Tahoe
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 14:15:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Got Mallory ?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 20:16:02 -0400
Subject: Hepolite pistons
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From COPPIFAN at aol.com
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 20:45:18 EDT
Subject: mirror removal
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From GeneralFolder at aol.com
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 21:27:44 EDT
Subject: re: 2 seater Tricarb on eBay
After much talk, hype and false auctions (in 98' & 00' if my memory serves me
right) - is this finally one of the fabled 2-seater tricarbs up on ebay?
<A
HREF="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1827666574&r=0&t=0";>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1827666574&r=0&;
t=0</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 21:30:50 -0400
Subject: Attention California Listers! : More info on Cal scrappage
GM
========
The following is from SEMA's web site. Californians, please read! Thanks...
Keleigh
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
Save a Car From Scrappage
Want to save a vehicle from being crushed into a cube, salvageable parts
and all? You can, thanks to a new California Air Resources Board (CARB)
Email notification program.
You can sign up online to be notified before a car or truck gets scrapped,
so you can either buy the entire vehicle or buy parts off it before it's
destroyed.
The new Email program not only notifies interested parties of a vehicle's
potential scrappage free of charge, it also provides a substantial waiting
period before the vehicle's destruction. If you submit a request to see a
scrapped vehicle, the period until the vehicle's destruction can be extended
by as much as one week. Previously, cars and trucks could be destroyed as
soon as they were inspected and the necessary paperwork was processed,
precluding any vehicle rescue or parts sales.
"This automatic Email notification system represents a significant
opportunity to hobbyists looking for specific vehicles and parts," said
Frank Bohanan, a technical consultant to SEMA. "When combined with SEMA's
success in limiting the types of parts which must be destroyed under these
programs, this advance notice about vehicles destined for scrappage will
help improve the availability of unique parts which would have otherwise
been lost forever."
The CARB Email program will automatically send a list of vehicles' make,
model and year to interested parties, whenever a vehicle is scheduled to be
received at a dismantler's facility. The Email message will include the
dismantler's location, as well as the time when the vehicle is scheduled to
arrive at the dismantler.
To subscribe to this Email notification program, go to:
www.arb.ca.gov/msprog/avrp/emailnotification.htm
We urge you to sign up today, so you can save a vehicle on death row--or
obtain much-needed parts for your restoration, street rod or other project.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 20:15:48 -0700
Subject: Re: 2 seater Tricarb on eBay
John Snyder
----------
> From: GeneralFolder@aol.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: re: 2 seater Tricarb on eBay
> Date: Thursday, May 09, 2002 6:27 PM
>
> To the list,
>
> After much talk, hype and false auctions (in 98' & 00' if my memory
serves me
> right) - is this finally one of the fabled 2-seater tricarbs up on ebay?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Keith <75667.1332 at compuserve.com>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 23:35:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Got Mallory ?
You wrote: "Not sure what's happening first - the "green corrosion" or the
burned oxide."
Sounds like it could be a classic case of galvanic corrosion ... just
enough sea breeze and two dis-similar metals: copper and spring-iron. As
an experiment, might take a set of the used points, clean them up real
good, and just dangle them over a sparkplug wire when you know the car is
going to sit for a while. Then inspect them for the green corrosion after
the car has sat. Is the car garaged or out in the open while stored?
Used to see this with my '69 Bonneville Triumph ... but I was also seeing
moisture behind the chrome points cover ... moisture from high-pressure
washing break-through at the paper gasket, I guess.
I'd probably be yelled at on The List for this, but if I had another set of
used points, i'd clean them up and put just a thin film of dielectric
grease on the copper edges of the points, let them incubate under the hood
and see if there was any difference in corrosion rate.
... Keith Elmund '65 BJ8 Phase 1 29100
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 21:26:16 -0700
Subject: Platinum Plugs
Thanks for your input.
Terry Blubaugh
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 09:27:33 -0600
Subject: Small Phillips screws
PTZ 602 which I believe is Phillips round head self tapping sheetmetal
screws that are #6 1/4" long?
I did the unthinkable, during the restoration I moved homes and now I
cannot find the screws that hold the grill to the surround on my BN2.
Thanks in advance?
Ward Stebner
Saskatoon, SK
1956 BN2
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Jarrett Galbreth" <galbreth@swcp.com>
To: eorr@cogeco.ca
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 11:51:46 EDT
Subject: Re: 2 seater Tricarb on eBay
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 11:53:39 -0500
Subject: RE: Who's going to tahoe?
Jack and Mary Brashear from Little Rock, Arkansas. Orange AN6 Mk2.
Trailering piggyback with RHD BJ8 from Memphis.
-----Original Message-----
From: Doug Ingram [mailto:dougi@shaw.ca]
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2002 12:55 AM
To: Spridget List; Bugeye List
Subject: Who's going to tahoe?
Sprite people:
Would it be possible to have a show of hands - who is going to be at Open
Roads 2002 in Lake Tahoe next month, and what car will you be bringing.
I'll start: My wife Eileen and I will be there in our dark green 58. And
yes, we'll be driving it the thousand miles or so each way.
Who else?
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
1958 Sprite (AN5L/636)
1963 Sprite Mk II project (HAN7L/30003)
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Walt & Zoe Harrison" <harrison at olywa.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 11:03:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Who's going to tahoe?
-----Original Message-----
From: Doug Ingram [mailto:dougi@shaw.ca]
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2002 12:55 AM
To: Spridget List; Bugeye List
Subject: Who's going to tahoe?
Sprite people:
Would it be possible to have a show of hands - who is going to be at Open
Roads 2002 in Lake Tahoe next month, and what car will you be bringing.
I'll start: My wife Eileen and I will be there in our dark green 58. And
yes, we'll be driving it the thousand miles or so each way.
Who else?
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
1958 Sprite (AN5L/636)
1963 Sprite Mk II project (HAN7L/30003)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From JAnde63063 at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 14:30:26 EDT
Subject: Re: FW: Who's going to tahoe?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From GNpaper at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 14:41:56 EDT
Subject: Re: FW: Who's going to tahoe?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 14:51:02 EDT
Subject: Re: FW: Who's going to tahoe?
Driving with the route 50 group via Chicago to St LOuis to Tahoe. So far 19
in the group including 3 from the UK. Driving , not trailering all the way
there and back.!
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Don Hambrick" <donham1 at cox.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 16:12:39 -0500
Subject: test
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Don Hambrick" <donham1 at cox.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 16:14:59 -0500
Subject: test
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 18:02:00 -0400
Subject: Rebuilding Lucas Driving Lights
In reassembling the three major components; glass, reflector plate and
chrome housing, are there gaskets (o-rings perhaps?) between the pieces or do
I add a thin bead of sealant at the joints?
Is there a wiring diagram source that shows the proper routing for wiring
two lights, through a relay, with an in-line fuse (what rating?) to an
under-dash mounted toggle switch?
Off-list would be fine - thanks in advance,
Charley Braum
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 18:43:48 EDT
Subject: Re: FW: Who's going to tahoe?
David Nock
co/chaiman Healey International 2002
1957 Healey BN4 ( just finished major restoration)
June 23/28 2002
Horizon Casino Resort
Lake Tahoe, Nevada
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main
Page</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Gary R. Brierton" <gbrierton at hotmail.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 22:32:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Who's going to tahoe?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Larry Hewlett <hewlettlj at shaw.ca>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 19:41:19 -0700
Subject: Front Hub Assembly
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From <caudle1 at charter.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 23:28:04 -0400
Subject: who's going to tahoe
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 21:58:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Buttonwillow Prize
Great racing action. Lots of pre-WWII race cars showed up including a
Bugatti and a couple of Lagondas.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos at msn.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 23:20:31 -0600
Subject: Who's going to Tahoe
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 05:50:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Who's going to Tahoe
ps. enquiring minds wonder where all the trailers will be stored. perhaps they
are all collapsible and can be stored on a healey parcel tray or in a glove
box.
dos_gusanos wrote:
>
> Henry,Chris, Connor and Jake Morrison, tow one 1960 BT7 and drive one 1961 BT7
> Depart June 21 Albuquerque, NM
> I 40 to Kingman, AZ then Vegas and points North
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 08:42:44 -0600
Subject: Re: Who's going to Tahoe
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
> > dos_gusanos wrote:
> > >
> > > Henry,Chris, Connor and Jake Morrison, tow one 1960 BT7 and drive one
> 1961 BT7
> > > Depart June 21 Albuquerque, NM
> > > I 40 to Kingman, AZ then Vegas and points North
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 07:45:29 -0700
Subject: Tahoe Media Coverage
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Larry Hewlett <hewlettlj at shaw.ca>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 08:00:34 -0700
Subject: Re: Front Hub Assembly
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch)
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 08:04:59 -0700
Subject: Jag XK150 coupe For Sale???
I don't know anything about this car but I understand that it has been
sitting around in a garage for quite a long time. Check it out.
Cheers,
Rick Feibusch
Venice, CA
****************************************************
Dear Rick,
I have a 1959 Jaguar XK150 FHC with no rust, not
running and needs restoration work. This is the first
time the car has ever been offered for sale. The price
is $15,000.00 firm. It is in the San Francisco Bay area.
Tony - 650-348-8269
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ron Yates" <dipstickdigest at mohaveaz.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 09:46:00 -0600
Subject: re:Tahoe trip
If you have the RV/trailer setup you'll have to head west from Kingman to
Bullhead City to Laughlin (on the Colorado River) and over to Hwy-95 to get to
Vegas, or stay on I-40 through Kingman past Needles (Calif.-on the Colorado
River) and pick up Hwy-95 about 5 miles west of Needles (the quickest way).
Another word of caution. When heading north on Hwy 95 to Vegas you'll go
through the very small town of Searchlight. Pay attention to the speed limit!
They give no quarter; 25mph is 25mph!
If you need gas between Kingman and Vegas buy it in Arizona before crossing
the Colorado River. California gas prices are .25 to .50 cents per gallon
higher. Don't buy gas in Needles - it's a real shocker.
Just thought should know.
Ron
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 09:02:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Is James Gibbons still on this list
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 10:25:53 -0700
Subject: No Healey content
BTW, was he ever a driver of mention? I see him on Speed all the time, but
wondered about his background.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 14:02:47 EDT
Subject: Re: No Healey content (De Cadenent)
<< BTW, was he ever a driver of mention? I see him on Speed all the time, but
wondered about his background.
>>
Alain De Cadenet was a French racer (you know they love their racing) raced
everywhere for a long time from the 60's through the 80's. If there was an
important race, he we was probably in it...raced for some big teams...Ford
Cosworth...comes to mind. Oh, and Works Spitfires?
I'm sure an internet search of his name will get you lots of vintage racing
hits.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 13:38:46 -0600
Subject: Re: No Healey content (De Cadenent)
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
WilKo@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 5/11/02 10:30:38, bkatz@handsonresearch.com writes:
>
> << BTW, was he ever a driver of mention? I see him on Speed all the time, but
> wondered about his background.
> >>
>
> Alain De Cadenet was a French racer (you know they love their racing) raced
> everywhere for a long time from the 60's through the 80's. If there was an
> important race, he we was probably in it...raced for some big teams...Ford
> Cosworth...comes to mind. Oh, and Works Spitfires?
>
> I'm sure an internet search of his name will get you lots of vintage racing
> hits.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 18:13:09 EDT
Subject: Timing chain
I know this has been gone over a thousand times, and I have saved probably
half of those emails somewhere. How many links between the dots on the
cam/crank sprockets for setting valve timing? 1966 BJ8
Thanks a bunch,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 15:34:22 -0700
Subject: Re: Timing chain
When installing the timing chain there are a lot of mistakes made. You need
to have 13 links between the dots on the oposite side of the timing chain
tensioner this would work out to 15 links total from dot to dot. The
easiest wy to set it up is to lay the chain out on the bench and mark one
link with white out, then count out 13 links and mark the next link with
the wwhite out. Then mark the two dots on the gears, then install the chain
with all the white marks and dots lined up with the short side oposite the
tensioner, also you should reference the sefvice manual page A 16 .
David Nock
--------------------
At 03:13 PM 5/11/2002, you wrote:
>Hi guys,
>Do the list archives ever work?
>
>I know this has been gone over a thousand times, and I have saved probably
>half of those emails somewhere. How many links between the dots on the
>cam/crank sprockets for setting valve timing? 1966 BJ8
>
>Thanks a bunch,
>Chris
>BJ8
>XJ6
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 19:03:18 EDT
Subject: Re: No Healey content (De Cadenent)
<< Well Rick I'm afraid you a wrong. De Cadenet is English (his mother may be
American; from a comment he made on the Barrett Jackson auction in 2001). He
could more than likely trace his origins back to the invasion of Britain by
William the Conqueror, a Norman, possibly one of William's Norman knights was
his
ancestor.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon >>
I had just read that somewhere recently:
:...or Amanda, 26, daughter of French racing driver Alain de Cadenet, "
He was definitely British and his accent is really odd being that he was
associated with the Ford Team and Drove GT-40's at Le Mans. Also Ferrari
Dinos, and SWB 250's.
Point being, he was a racing hot-shot and car collector and you can get more
info on him online.
Sorry for the erroneous report about his roots. Ed, you're the history man.
Have you been to Warwick Castle yet? It's the norm.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 18:12:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Timing chain
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From <Austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 19:30:04 -0500
Subject: Dolomite Straight Eight at Open Roads?
I hope this one gets through. I've been having problems with the list for
several months now. Anyway, here goes.....
I was reading the latest issue of TR World the other day, and noticed that
Graham Robson has nominated the Dolomite Straight Eight to the "Robson"
Triumph Hall of Fame (Standards 80th Anniversary coming up in 2003). This got
me thinking....are either of the two survivors planning to attend Open Roads
by chance? For those who are not aware, the Dolomite Straight Eight was a car
dear to DMH's heart during his years at Standard prior to the launch of the
TR2.
Also, someone asked the other day whether anyone was planning to provide a
video of the event. I haven't seen any responses to the question. I would
love to be included to the list of recipients.
Thanks for any information.
Scott Helms
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Fred Hunter <fhunter at kcnet.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 20:27:46 -0500
Subject: Re: FW: Who's going to tahoe?
I've arranged with a small commercial car hauler (who's also a friend)
to have him take Millie, the Special Test car/100S from Kansas City out
to Tahoe for this event.
And this presents an opportunity for anyone else who might also be
looking for transportation for their Healey out to the event. In
addition to my car, there is room for one additional big or little
Healey in this carrier's enclosed gooseneck trailer. This is a
professional car hauler, with all the correct equipment, the PROPER
INSURANCE, and door-to-door pickup & delivery to and from the event in a
modern, fully enclosed trailer. A turn-key deal, and he's offering it
at a VERY reasonable rate: $1499 round trip from Kansas City to Tahoe
for each car. This is considerably less than what other carriers are
asking!
Furthermore, you need NOT be in Kansas City to take advantage of
this...he's willing to pick up anywhere west of say, Ohio. But the rate
changes the further east of Kansas City he has to come to pick up your
car...but I'd venture that he'll be considerably cheaper than anyone
else.
Anyone who thinks they might be interested in this, contact me directly
at:
fhunter@kcnet.com
and I'll put you in touch with the carrier.
Best regards,
Fred
SPL-224B/AHS-3804
p.s.- I've attempted to send this to the Spriget list as well; but just
in case it bounces there (I'm not subscribed to it)...would someone who
is subscribed to BOTH lists please post it on the Spriget list?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 00:57:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Timing chain
Chris
>>
check your shop manual.
<<
>
> Hi guys,
> Do the list archives ever work?
>
> I know this has been gone over a thousand times, and I have saved probably
> half of those emails somewhere. How many links between the dots on the
> cam/crank sprockets for setting valve timing? 1966 BJ8
>
> Thanks a bunch,
> Chris
> BJ8
> XJ6
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 06:46:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Timing chain
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From BSCCofKY at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 09:00:31 EDT
Subject: "MARQUES ON THE GREEN"
Featuring over 125 British Cars! The Largest British Car Show in Kentucky!
Sponsored by the BRITISH SPORTS CAR CLUB Louisville, Kentucky
Registration from 9:00 AM to Noon. Awards at 3:00 PM
PARTICIPANTS CHOICE VOTING CLASS TROPHIES. SPECIAL & NOVELTY AWARDS BEST OF
SHOW. MASTERS CLASS (Prior Year Class Winners) BEST OF FEATURED MARQUE
This years featured Marques will be Little British Cars - Midget - Sprite -
Spitfire - Mini & More!
Registration Form - Print and Mail Today!! Or visit the club web page at <A
HREF="http://britishsportscarclub.com/";>
BritishSportsCarClub.com</A> for more information
Name _______________________________________
Street _______________________________________
City _____________________ State ____ Zip _______
Telephone___________________________________
Email_______________________________________
Car Information
Year _____ Make ___________ Model __________ Color _________
Year _____ Make ___________ Model __________ Color _________
___ Check here for Diamond In The Rough Class
___ Check here if Year 2001 Class Winner
PARTS, VENDORS, RAFFLES and FUN
No Charge To Vendors
LIABILITY RELEASE
I, the undersigned, understand that the British Sports Car Club assumes
neither responsibility nor liability for my actions, the actions of others,
or any loss or damage to any person or person's property participating in
this event
Signature________________________ Date_________
Please make checks payable to BSCC and mail to:
BRITISH SPORTS CAR CLUB
P.O. Box 43923
Louisville, KY 40253-0923
ADVANCE PAYMENT
BSCC Members $10.00 _______
First Car $12.00 _______
Second Car $6.00 _______
DAY OF SHOW
First Car $15.00 _______
Second Car $8.00 _______
Total Amount $ __________
If additional information is required contact Mike Leezer (502) 239-8343
.Fax: (502) 451-3247 .E-Mail: <A
HREF="mailto:Mikes74tr6@cs.com";>Mikes74tr6@cs.com </A>or Don Minnich (812)
923-7349
.E-Mail: <A HREF="mailto:dons59tr3a@aol.com";>dons59tr3a@aol.com </A> Or visit
the club web page at <A HREF="http://britishsportscarclub.com/";>
BritishSportsCarClub.com</A>
Print and mail today!
To request a copy or for more information contact <A
HREF="mailto:information@britishsportscarclub.com";>
information@britishsportscarclub.com</A>
A fun day for the Whole Family!!!
<A HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/bsccofky/BSCC_bash_hotel.html";>Click here for
Marques on the Green Driving Directions</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 10:35:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Timing chain
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 10:50:36 -0500
Subject: Re: Timing chain
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 00:39:25 -0700
Subject: Re: mirror removal
If you don't mind how they would look, you can fill the holes with a plastic
or rubber "Cap-plug". These are like the plugs used to fill the drain holes
in the floors of some cars and come in different sizes. Try your local auto
parts or home improvement store. If you can't find them, I can bring along an
assortment when I meet you in Annapolis for the drive down to Michael Oritt's
British car meet.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: COPPIFAN@aol.com
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2002 5:45 PM
Subject: mirror removal
If I remove a fender mounted mirror to replace it with one to be put in a
defferent position, is there a way to cover/fill the holes short of having
the car repainted ? (plan to one of these days but not in the current
budget).
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 12:14:42 -0500
Subject: BN1 Sump
Mark
Nashville
BN1
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 15:14:43 -0400
Subject: Re: BN1 Sump
Charley Braum
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 15:04:35 -0400
Subject: Re: BN1 Sump
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: "Big Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2002 1:14 PM
Subject: BN1 Sump
> Another little problem with my Healey. I drove it 400 miles last weekend
> and when I returned I had another oil leak. This time it is from a small
> hole in the front of the sump. Does anybody have experiences with the
Moss
> replacement pan? I know that I could probably have it welded but it is
beat
> up and would probably leak again.
>
> Mark
> Nashville
> BN1
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 15:18:40 -0400
Subject: Insurance Question
thanks
tom
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Jim Ryan" <ryan at jimryan.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 15:44:27 -0400
Subject: Test
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 03:28:13 -0700
Subject: Re: Got Mallory ?
I've been away for a bit, so I'm behind on this thread. I installed a
Mallory dual point dizzy (bought from Moss) in my BJ8 in 1992 (31,000 miles
ago). It's still running fine on the original points, rotor, condensor, and
cap and I have never had any problems with it, including no oil leaks.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: DMMax@aol.com
To: andrew@hickeycontractors.co.nz ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 8:11 AM
Subject: Got Mallory ?
<< email me a drawing >>
.... of course we can't e-mail photos on this list .... so..........
I'd still like to know how many people have done this modification (
Mallory
Dual Point Distributor) how it has worked and ,.... what about that pesky
oil leak ?
The curious Mrs. Peel / David Maxwell ;-)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette at attbi.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 17:14:16 -0400
Subject: Update on oil filter study for archives
The information in the archives on oil filter comparisons is
out of date so here is the latest location of the study...
http://minimopar.net/oilfilterstudy.html
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From XK120FHCSE at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 18:48:33 EDT
Subject: Re: Insurance Question
Very few antique auto policies have mileage restrictions these days. As long
as you're calling Hagerty you might also want to ask them what they consider
excluded "racing." I'm too lazy to dig out my policy but there's probably an
exclusion in there somewhere for speed events. Get them to confirm that they
DON'T mean rallys and autocross/gymkhana activity of the type that will take
place at Tahoe. The spirit of the exlusion is for real on-track racing but
you don't want someone saying an event is a "race" because it was timed.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 18:32:27 -0500
Subject: Timing chain
I have a timing chain with bright links sitting on my desk in front of me
with the two timing sprockets. When one bright link is on the timing mark
of the crankshaft sprocket, count counterclockwise 18 links and you will be
at the second bright link that should be on the timing mark for the
camshaft sprocket (include both bright links in the count).
Hope this resolves the issue.
Best regards,
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 18:35:03 -0500
Subject: Timing chain
Sorry! I mis-typed the number! Should be 15.
I have a timing chain with bright links sitting on my desk in front of me
with the two timing sprockets. When one bright link is on the timing mark
of the crankshaft sprocket, count counterclockwise 18 links and you will be
at the second bright link that should be on the timing mark for the
camshaft sprocket (include both bright links in the count).
Hope this resolves the issue.
Best regards,
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 19:53:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Insurance Question
Charley Braum
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 19:57:16 -0400
Subject: Re: BN1 Sump
Charley Braum
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 19:55:45 -0400
Subject: Pertronix?
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 20:36:49 EDT
Subject: Re: Pertronix?
How about a few more clues in your riddle:
1. You said it would not start. Did it crank or was it entirely dead? If it
didn't even crank, are sure you you didn't inadvertently leave the trunk
"kill" switch in the off position.?
2. Put the pertronix back in. If it cranks but will not fire, go back to the
basics of the need for air, fuel, and spark as the 3 things an engine needs,
Pull off a plug and crank the engine:.
************ if no spark , there is probably something basically wrong
with your installation. and retrace the steps
************* if you have a spark, check to see if the timing wasnt thrown
off . Make certain the distributor has not rotated and is tightly clamped
down.
THis is basic stuff and easy to check for openers in the solution to your
problem.
Please let the list know of your progress in solving the problem. Persist in
installing the Pertronix as you will be very happy with it once you get it
right - you can forget about burnt points forever. Hope this has been of
some help;
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7 (Tahoe bound)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 19:41:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Timing chain
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 19:54:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Pertronix?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Russ Staub <bbb11489 at azboss.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 18:03:02 -0700
Subject: Rotors
After about 5 minutes of running, the car just stopped dead. Repeated
attempts to restart did not get a single pop. Recent similar
occurrences in the past two years led to immediately check under the
distributor cap, where I found, what else, a cracked rotor. Since the
car was running reasonably well when this happended, I guess I could
assume the rotor had just cracked.
I have had at least 4 cracked rotor episodes in the past two years, and
am getting pretty experienced at quickly diagnosing this problem. My
question is, if I am to have any chance of having Horace in Tahoe, and
of being able to drive him there, does anyone have a suggestion of where
distributor rotors of a more reliable variety might be obtained.
TIA,
Russ Staub
56 BN2
67 BJ8
Mesa, AZ
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 20:10:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Rotors
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 18:37:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Pertronix? - some ideas
The Pertronix works MUCH better than points, giving a
more even exhaust firing, better power and mileage.
The added benefit is never having to adjust the
points, timing, & carb settings, which I had to do
every 1,000 miles or so before. I'd put in the effort
to figure out your problem.
Some basics:
1) Did you buy a Pertronix kit for negative ground?
(they make them for both negative and positive
ground).
2) Is your coil oriented correctly? With points, the
car will fire no matter which way the coil is hooked
up to the ignition & distributor. With the pertronix,
it won't work if the + and - terminals are hooked up
backwards. If you have an old british coil with CB &
SW terminals, chuck it. It's hard to tell which is
the + or negative terminal because the brits, in all
their majesty, would put CB and SW on alternate
terminals depending on if it was for a positive or
negative ground car. Get one of those new lucas sport
coils (which is marked + and -) if you like to keep
the prince of darkness in the loop.
3)Did you seat the pertronix magnetic cam cylinder on
correctly?
4) Sometimes the pertronix kits are a little off with
timing - you may have to move your distributor around
a bit. Turn the car over with a timing light and see
how far off you are from TDC - you may be off a fair
amount - the first time I installed the pertronix, the
timing was off about 20 degrees. I rotated the
distributor around a bit and all was hunky dory.
If you put in the effort once, you'll never have to
change the points again. Having two healeays myself,
the pertronix has made maintaining the two cars an
occasional pleasure, rather than a regular chore....
It is well worth the effort to figure it out.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 (with + ground pertronix) , '66 BJ8 (with -
ground pertronix)
--- Warren Dietz <flyhihealey@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Been looking to upgrade my ignition for some time
> now and just purchased and
> installed one"Pertronix Ignitor"(LU-162A for my
> neg.ground car) after
> finding a good price and reading some positive feed
> back from satisfied
> folks on the list.
> Following the directions carefully I completed
> installation which I
> thought was fairly straight forward. With a grin I
> turned the key,
> anticipating that familiar exhaust note, maybe a bit
> more powerful sounding
> with this new system? It would not start.
> Got some reasons for this from Pertronix web site,
> but honestly I have not
> a clue what's wrong? I readily popped the old point
> system back in, hit the
> start key and it fired so fast it scared me?
> Of course I mumbled under my breath something
> about" if it ain't broke
> don't fix it" and some other stuff...but I would
> sure appreciate some
> wisdomly advice before I go further.
> Thanks
> Warren - 67 BJ8 Neg Grnd
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Bob Coates" <Bob_Coates at ingersoll-rand.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 21:47:23 -0400
Subject: Re: ELECTRICAL PROBLEM
BOB COATES
REGIONAL SALES ENGINEER
AFTERMARKET DIVISION
THE TORRINGTON COMPANY
PH 860-673-3881 FAX 860-673-2238
VOICE MAIL 4138 CELL 860-480-4235
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 19:20:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Pertronix? - some ideas
------------------
At 06:37 PM 5/12/2002, you wrote:
>Warren -
>
>The Pertronix works MUCH better than points, giving a
>more even exhaust firing, better power and mileage.
>The added benefit is never having to adjust the
>points, timing, & carb settings, which I had to do
>every 1,000 miles or so before. I'd put in the effort
>to figure out your problem.
>
>Some basics:
>
>1) Did you buy a Pertronix kit for negative ground?
>(they make them for both negative and positive
>ground).
>
>2) Is your coil oriented correctly? With points, the
>car will fire no matter which way the coil is hooked
>up to the ignition & distributor. With the pertronix,
>it won't work if the + and - terminals are hooked up
>backwards. If you have an old british coil with CB &
>SW terminals, chuck it. It's hard to tell which is
>the + or negative terminal because the brits, in all
>their majesty, would put CB and SW on alternate
>terminals depending on if it was for a positive or
>negative ground car. Get one of those new lucas sport
>coils (which is marked + and -) if you like to keep
>the prince of darkness in the loop.
>
>3)Did you seat the pertronix magnetic cam cylinder on
>correctly?
>
>4) Sometimes the pertronix kits are a little off with
>timing - you may have to move your distributor around
>a bit. Turn the car over with a timing light and see
>how far off you are from TDC - you may be off a fair
>amount - the first time I installed the pertronix, the
>timing was off about 20 degrees. I rotated the
>distributor around a bit and all was hunky dory.
>
>If you put in the effort once, you'll never have to
>change the points again. Having two healeays myself,
>the pertronix has made maintaining the two cars an
>occasional pleasure, rather than a regular chore....
>It is well worth the effort to figure it out.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Alan
>
>'53 BN1 (with + ground pertronix) , '66 BJ8 (with -
>ground pertronix)
>
>
>--- Warren Dietz <flyhihealey@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > Been looking to upgrade my ignition for some time
> > now and just purchased and
> > installed one"Pertronix Ignitor"(LU-162A for my
> > neg.ground car) after
> > finding a good price and reading some positive feed
> > back from satisfied
> > folks on the list.
> > Following the directions carefully I completed
> > installation which I
> > thought was fairly straight forward. With a grin I
> > turned the key,
> > anticipating that familiar exhaust note, maybe a bit
> > more powerful sounding
> > with this new system? It would not start.
> > Got some reasons for this from Pertronix web site,
> > but honestly I have not
> > a clue what's wrong? I readily popped the old point
> > system back in, hit the
> > start key and it fired so fast it scared me?
> > Of course I mumbled under my breath something
> > about" if it ain't broke
> > don't fix it" and some other stuff...but I would
> > sure appreciate some
> > wisdomly advice before I go further.
> > Thanks
> > Warren - 67 BJ8 Neg Grnd
>LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
>http://launch.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 09:46:58 -0700
Subject: Re: Rotors
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: Russ Staub
To: HEALEY LIST
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2002 6:03 PM
Subject: Rotors
Just finished cleaning/rebuilding my BJ8 fuel system this week end, new
SU pump and filter, new fuel tank, rebuild kit in Carbs, new flex lines,
etc. Started Horace up and he didn't run too well, but he was running.
Probably need the rebuilt carbs properly adjusted.
After about 5 minutes of running, the car just stopped dead. Repeated
attempts to restart did not get a single pop. Recent similar
occurrences in the past two years led to immediately check under the
distributor cap, where I found, what else, a cracked rotor. Since the
car was running reasonably well when this happended, I guess I could
assume the rotor had just cracked.
I have had at least 4 cracked rotor episodes in the past two years, and
am getting pretty experienced at quickly diagnosing this problem. My
question is, if I am to have any chance of having Horace in Tahoe, and
of being able to drive him there, does anyone have a suggestion of where
distributor rotors of a more reliable variety might be obtained.
TIA,
Russ Staub
56 BN2
67 BJ8
Mesa, AZ
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 23:00:18 -0400
Subject: RE: Rotors
Having sold hundreds of after market rotors over the last 24 years with
no reports of premature failure I have to believe that Horace's problem
is being caused by something other than the rotor itself.
I would suspect excessive distributor bush or shaft wear, a bent
distributor shaft, or excessive play between the upper and lower
sections of the distributor shaft.
The rotor should not come in contact with the 6 posts inside the
distributor cap; check the cap for signs of contact.
I would recommend that you remove the distributor and have it carefully
checked on a distributor machine.
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Russ Staub
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2002 9:03 PM
To: HEALEY LIST
Subject: Rotors
Just finished cleaning/rebuilding my BJ8 fuel system this week end, new
SU pump and filter, new fuel tank, rebuild kit in Carbs, new flex lines,
etc. Started Horace up and he didn't run too well, but he was running.
Probably need the rebuilt carbs properly adjusted.
After about 5 minutes of running, the car just stopped dead. Repeated
attempts to restart did not get a single pop. Recent similar
occurrences in the past two years led to immediately check under the
distributor cap, where I found, what else, a cracked rotor. Since the
car was running reasonably well when this happended, I guess I could
assume the rotor had just cracked.
I have had at least 4 cracked rotor episodes in the past two years, and
am getting pretty experienced at quickly diagnosing this problem. My
question is, if I am to have any chance of having Horace in Tahoe, and
of being able to drive him there, does anyone have a suggestion of where
distributor rotors of a more reliable variety might be obtained.
TIA,
Russ Staub
56 BN2
67 BJ8
Mesa, AZ
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 23:07:38 -0400
Subject: RE: ELECTRICAL PROBLEM
After a major rewiring job it is very smart to fit a 30 amp resetting
breaker on the "house" wiring of your car. This will aid greatly in
ensuring that you don't let the smoke escape from the harness.
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Coates
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2002 9:47 PM
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: ELECTRICAL PROBLEM
I just connected my batteries and turned the system on in my quest to
complete the restoration of my BN2 and wire #41 fried between the
lighting
switch and the left front sidelamp. It appears that the connector may
have
grounded to the frame. Any suggestions?
BOB COATES
REGIONAL SALES ENGINEER
AFTERMARKET DIVISION
THE TORRINGTON COMPANY
PH 860-673-3881 FAX 860-673-2238
VOICE MAIL 4138 CELL 860-480-4235
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 23:30:36 -0400
Subject: shock oil - is this stuff ok to use?
I went to their web page and found this:
http://www.royallube.com/Pages/thydr.htm
the product is listed about 1/2 way down the page. It says the product is ISO
15, whatever that means.
The stuff is very thin and red, and looks like automatic transmission fluid.
Before I blast the seller, is this stuff ok for shock oil? The stuff I bought
from him 5 years ago came in a tall white16 oz bottle with a squeeze top which
said "shock oil" and was reported to be made especially for Armstrong lever
shocks. Was clear and feels like 20 weight oil. I was hoping for more of the
same, but couldn't check it until I opened the can.
The new stuff is some type of synthetic.
Ryan
BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 23:49:17 -0500
Subject: Fw: Timing chain
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
> To: <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2002 7:41 PM
> Subject: Re: Timing chain
>
>
> > not if you go counterclockwise. clockwise is 15 bright through bright
or
> 13 between the brights.
> > Richard J. Hockert, Esq. wrote:
> > >
> > > Chris:
> > >
> > >
> > > Sorry! I mis-typed the number! Should be 15.
> > >
> > > I have a timing chain with bright links sitting on my desk in front
of
> me
> > > with the two timing sprockets. When one bright link is on the timing
> mark
> > > of the crankshaft sprocket, count counterclockwise 18 links and you
> will be
> > > at the second bright link that should be on the timing mark for the
> > > camshaft sprocket (include both bright links in the count).
> > >
> > > Hope this resolves the issue.
> > >
> > > Best regards,
> > > Jim Hockert
> > > BJ8 Rallye
> > > Dallas, TX
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 01:01:23 -0400
Subject: Head gasket
What is the wisdom on using using gasket compound for sealing a new head
gasket (Payen brand)? Is gasket compound necessary? What is everyone using?
I have heard of none, Hylomar, some sort of spray copper, and blue RTV.
Keith Pennell
Rebuilt head ready to go on
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 01:29:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: What are the good days to go to Tahoe?
I'll be in San Francisco during that week (the first
weekend is my bachelor party). After that, I'd like
to head to Tahoe but I really only have maybe two days
to spare. I was thinking Wed. & Thursday are probably
the best days to be there. Any suggestions? Is there
one day when all the cars will be together in one
location?
I'll be bringing my ultra-swank 100/4 but the BJ8 is
staying in Hong Kong for this one!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 22:34:08 -0700
Subject: Nuts
TIA,
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 06:56:29 -0400
Subject: Pertronix?-update
>From: LarryRPH@aol.com
>To: flyhihealey@hotmail.com, Healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Pertronix?
>Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 20:36:49 EDT
>
>1. You said it would not start. Did it crank or was it entirely dead? If
>it
>didn't even crank, are sure you you didn't inadvertently leave the trunk
>"kill" switch in the off position.?
>
_________________________________________________________________
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 05:58:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Head gasket
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 04:58:51 -0600
Subject: Re: Who's going to Tahoe
Bill and Lynda Lawrence
frogeye wrote:
> ...and since Henry has a trailer, I think I'll follow in his tire tracks,
> that is unless his wife wants to stop and shop too often along the way...
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From RCooperman at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 09:12:36 EDT
Subject: Moving a BJ8 to Chicago
For the past several months I have been hard at work bringing an all original
rust free 1965 BJ8 "Barn Queen", 27 years off the road, back to life. It is
now running well and ready to begin its second life with my son in Chicago.
I seek your help in facilitating this transition.
1. Any recommendations as to a reliable, reasonably priced car hauler?
It needs to go from the Washington, DC area to North Shore Chicago early next
month.
2. Is there an active Healey club in the North Shore area of Chicago?
Contacts?
3. Any recommendations as to a good mechanic nearby to Highland Park,
IL to entrust this car to once it settles in.
All help greatly appreciated.
Richard Cooperman
1965 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Drtrite at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 09:14:00 EDT
Subject: Re: Nuts
<< Anybody have a source for the brass T-nut for the screws that hold
stop/turn/run light lenses on a BJ8? This goes behind the backing
plate for the lenses and is flat on two sides so it won't turn in the lens
plate. >>
Bob,
I made a bunch of these a number of years ago and have sold all of them,
Guess it is time to make another batch. IU'll let you know when I get them
finished, not before Tahoe!
Don Lenschow
<A HREF="www.dunritetool.com">Dun-Rite Tool Co</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 07:23:31 -0600
Subject: Off to the body shop
After all is primed she'll get her red colour back.....
Also boxes of black colored bits off to get powder coated today...
Cheers
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rmoment at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 09:31:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Timing chain
Here you need to look at timing marks on the gears AND the position of these
timing marks relative to the gear keyways. For example, on the 100s, the
crank gear has the mark 2 notches over from the kekyway (shop manual page
D/25), while on 6-cylinder engines the crank gear mark is 180* from the
kekyway (shop manual page a.16). The 100 manual also shows the position of
the cam gear mark relative to the cam keyway. I don't have a 6-cyl cam gear
to tell where that mark is relative to the keyway.
The manuals show that on 100s the two gear marks need to be directly across
from each other, while on 6-cyl cars the cam one is up while the crank one is
down. Since the crank gear is interchangable between 100s and 6-cyl engines,
you need to make sure that you put the gear mark in the proper place in case
the gear you bought doesn't have it correctly located. The cam gears are
quite different for 100s than 6-cyl engines so these ought to have the marks
correct. HOWEVER, you can easily double check this is so when you assemble
the engine as the crank will always be with the front throw pointing up and
the cam should have its lobes symmetrically located for both valves to be
closed on either the #1 or #4 cylinders (100s) or #1 or #6 cylinders (6-cyl
engines) and the exhalust valve to be closing and the intake opening on the
paired throw (#4 or #1; #6 or #1 respectively).
If you know how the engine works, it is easy to double check that the gears
are correctly pmarked and the cam properly positioned when lyou put ont lhe
chain. You don't need to bother with the link marks -- only the gear ones.
Roger
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 09:32:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Moving a BJ8 to Chicago
I am the President of the Midwest Region (Chicago) Austin Healey Club.
Regarding your transportation needs, I will check with our club members to
see if any are planning to be in the DC area possibly with a trailer. You
never know - and might just get lucky. Otherwise the transport companies
like Intercity or Passport are very reputable and offer closed transport but
do cost.
As for good mechanics, well that runs to both ends of the spectrum. The two
most notable and reputable that specialize in Healeys are Mark Baker,
proprietor of Sport & Specialty 815-629-2717 www.sportandspecialty.com in
Durand, IL. or Tom Kovacs, proprietor of Fourintune Garage
www.fourintune.com in Cedarburg, WI. The club has members that are also
very knowledgeable and always willing to help other Healey owners.
As for the Club, we have over 130 members throughout the Chicagoland area
and several formerly local members around the country. We maintain a very
active schedule of events and activities including tours, rallies,
autocrosses, car shows and tech sessions to name a just a few. I can have
our membership director provide more information if you and/or your son
would like. Just let me know. Please do not hesitate to contact me if we
can be of any assistance.
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
President - AHCA Midwest Region
630-355-4398
----- Original Message -----
From: <RCooperman@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 9:12 AM
Subject: Moving a BJ8 to Chicago
> Gentlepersons,
>
> For the past several months I have been hard at work bringing an all
original
> rust free 1965 BJ8 "Barn Queen", 27 years off the road, back to life. It
is
> now running well and ready to begin its second life with my son in
Chicago.
> I seek your help in facilitating this transition.
>
> 1. Any recommendations as to a reliable, reasonably priced car
hauler?
> It needs to go from the Washington, DC area to North Shore Chicago early
next
> month.
>
> 2. Is there an active Healey club in the North Shore area of
Chicago?
> Contacts?
>
> 3. Any recommendations as to a good mechanic nearby to Highland
Park,
> IL to entrust this car to once it settles in.
>
> All help greatly appreciated.
>
> Richard Cooperman
> 1965 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 11:10:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Re: Timing chain
This is not the first engine I have rebuilt, so I decided to pull out the
degree wheel and the dial indicator to verify timing.
What I find very strange as far as the timing setup procedure is this: If I
line up both the crank keyway and the cam keyway straight up like the books
say, I have the crank at top dead center. However, the position of the cam is
not as it would be at the top of the compression stroke, with both valves
completely closed. But, rather both valves are slightly open as at the end of
the exhaust stroke and at the beginning of the intake stroke.
I say that this is odd, since every other engine that I have rebuilt calls for
setting the cam and the crank at positions that match top dead center on the
compression stroke...just as the plug would be firing.
Either way, I have checked with the dial indicator and degree wheel, and all
looks good. I had the cam reground, which is why I am being so picky.
Anyone else out there think the procedure is a bit strange?
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
<<
The manuals show that on 100s the two gear marks need to be
directly across
from each other, while on 6-cyl cars the cam one is up while
the crank one is
down. Since the crank gear is interchangable between 100s and
6-cyl engines,
you need to make sure that you put the gear mark in the proper
place in case
<<
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 11:20:01 -0400
Subject: 100-4 crankshaft needed
Jim
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 08:48:49 -0700
Subject: coming to Lake Tahoe
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "patrick harris" <rotaryman at worldnet.att.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 08:52:36 -0700
Subject: 100 exhaust manifold
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ZManDino at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 12:32:30 EDT
Subject: RE: Best Days at Tahoe
Alex BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 09:45:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Fw: Timing chain
If it is off it will be very off...
Dean BN7
--- "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net>
wrote:
> Or you can just forget about counting links,
> position the camshaft
> keyway STRAIGHT UP and the crankshaft keyway
> STRAIGHT
> UP, then put on the damn chain. Very simple, and
> works on all 6
> cylinder Healeys.
> Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
>
> > ----- Original Message -----
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 10:32:43 -0700
Subject: Re: Pertronix?-update
FYI: I have been running electronic ignitions for many years, including
Pertronics units, and several friends have recently installed them as well.
In my opinion, they are definitely the way to go, but not everyone would
agree with this.
There is a very remote chance that your unit is defective right out of the
box. It is much more likely that the timing is off enough so that the
engine won't fire. Check that the module's mounting plate is mounted to the
distributor plate as instructed, and then check that you have spark in the
usual way. If there's a spark, it's just a question of rotating the
distibutor to the right position and then timing it.
Without a special tool, you can't static time the car with the electronic
unit in place, as you can with the points. You'll need to get it running by
going backand forth with the distributor until it fires and runs, and the
idle is as it was with the engine warm - you'll be in the ballpark at that
point. Then you'll have to use an advance type timing light to get it right
on spec. and you're done.
Of course, you realize that the best way to ensure that the electronic unit
never fails is to have a little baggy in the glove box at all times
containing all of the parts that were removed from the distributor! Seems
to be the rule with Healeys - if you are carrying the parts, you likely
won't need them!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'67 BJ8 (NEG gd, Crane ignition, with a Pertronics unit on the shelf waiting
to be installed)
'62 BT7 tri-carb, (NEG gd, Pertronics unit installed)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 3:56 AM
Subject: Pertronix?-update
Thanks all, I failed to mention that I do have a Lucas "Sports Coil"
with plain (+ -) terminals and the engine turned over quite fast given the
power from the 1,000 crank battery in the trunk. Have been running negative
ground 15-20yrs. Part number for Pertonix is for neg grnd.
As I mentioned in my initial post, when I re-installed the points &
condensor it started immediately at the touch of the key!
I will make another attempt perhaps adjusting timing and see if that helps.
>From: LarryRPH@aol.com
>To: flyhihealey@hotmail.com, Healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Pertronix?
>Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 20:36:49 EDT
>
>1. You said it would not start. Did it crank or was it entirely dead? If
>it
>didn't even crank, are sure you you didn't inadvertently leave the trunk
>"kill" switch in the off position.?
>
_________________________________________________________________
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 10:45:50 -0700
Subject: Re: Re: Timing chain
>From somewhere in the deep, dark past of my garage, I seem to recall that,
in the timing chain installation procedure, with the keyways properly
aligned, pistons 1 and 6 are both at TDC, but it is actually #6 that is on
the firing stroke. Check the valves on #6 - I think that you'll find them
closed, with #1 'on the rock'.
My experience is with the Healey 6cyl engine, so I can't speak about the
four, although our MGB is the same ie: #4 is at TDC on the firing stroke in
the sprocket alignment position.
Bottom line, I believe from your description that you are fine - drop 'er in
and go for a ride!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <Csooch1@aol.com>
To: <Rmoment@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 8:10 AM
Subject: Re: Re: Timing chain
Thanks to all for the replies and the help.
This is not the first engine I have rebuilt, so I decided to pull out the
degree wheel and the dial indicator to verify timing.
What I find very strange as far as the timing setup procedure is this: If I
line up both the crank keyway and the cam keyway straight up like the books
say, I have the crank at top dead center. However, the position of the cam
is not as it would be at the top of the compression stroke, with both valves
completely closed. But, rather both valves are slightly open as at the end
of the exhaust stroke and at the beginning of the intake stroke.
I say that this is odd, since every other engine that I have rebuilt calls
for setting the cam and the crank at positions that match top dead center on
the compression stroke...just as the plug would be firing.
Either way, I have checked with the dial indicator and degree wheel, and all
looks good. I had the cam reground, which is why I am being so picky.
Anyone else out there think the procedure is a bit strange?
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
<<
The manuals show that on 100s the two gear marks need to be
directly across
from each other, while on 6-cyl cars the cam one is up while
the crank one is
down. Since the crank gear is interchangable between 100s and
6-cyl engines,
you need to make sure that you put the gear mark in the proper
place in case
<<
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark Goodman" <mkgoodman at worldnet.att.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 13:48:48 -0400
Subject: WHERE ARE YOU?
Mark Goodman
66 BJ8 35503
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 18:10:20 +0000
Subject: healey photo search
- Chinese Proverb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 14:26:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: 100S & 100M For Sale or Lease
1955 Austin-Healey 100S. Lobelia blue over white. Restoration finished
2001. Full race-prepared engine, Carillo rods, steel crank. Will sell
for $125,000 obo, or lease for season for $25,000 obo. Can provide
team support and transportation at cost. Mary Ellen Ford, (434)
923-8389. E-mail meford464@aol.com
There was also an ad for a 1956 black over red factory Austin Healey
100M. The ad indicates that it is the 1956 New York Motor Show car and
that it has undergone a fresh restoration. Asking price is $48,000 or
lease for season for $15,000. Source is same as above.
[Note: I believe all prices are US$]
Interesting!
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Games, Movies, Music & Sports! http://entertainment.yahoo.ca
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 11:56:06 -0700
Subject: Re: healey photo search
-------------
At 11:10 AM 5/13/2002, you wrote:
>I did a search for a picture on MSN's search engine and
>it returned a photo of the Salt flats racer.
>MSN uses corbis to search for photos.
>http://store.corbis.com/prodconfig/image_details.asp?
>imageid=12402207
>--
>Ira Erbs
>Digs-4 Solutions
>For training,network,PC and
>Macintosh
>"Learning without thinking is
>labor lost; thinking
>without learning is dangerous."
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bobsoniaharris at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 15:39:34 EDT
Subject: Re: Pertronix?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Don Gschwind" <dgschwind at netonecom.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 15:46:27 -0400
Subject: Carb. Float Drain lines
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 20:15:23 +0000
Subject: Re: healey photo search
- Chinese Proverb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 13:28:05 -0700
Subject: Virtual Healey
I thought some of you might be interested in the following.
I'm combining two things I like ... Healeys and computer modeling. The
initial results are at <http://www.loftusdesign.net/virtual_healey.htm>
I know that everything is not 100% correct ... (does anyone have a 100
that I can borrow for a few months ;-)) ..but I'm working on it.
cheers,
John Loftus
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Brian Mix <brianmix at cox.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 14:11:46 -0700
Subject: Re: Virtual Healey
John Loftus wrote:
> Healey folks,
>
> I thought some of you might be interested in the following.
>
> I'm combining two things I like ... Healeys and computer modeling. The
> initial results are at <http://www.loftusdesign.net/virtual_healey.htm>
> I know that everything is not 100% correct ... (does anyone have a 100
> that I can borrow for a few months ;-)) ..but I'm working on it.
>
> cheers,
> John Loftus
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 17:24:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Virtual Healey
John Loftus wrote:
> Healey folks,
>
> I thought some of you might be interested in the following.
>
> I'm combining two things I like ... Healeys and computer modeling. The
> initial results are at <http://www.loftusdesign.net/virtual_healey.htm>
> I know that everything is not 100% correct ... (does anyone have a 100
> that I can borrow for a few months ;-)) ..but I'm working on it.
>
> cheers,
> John Loftus
>
> /
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 14:19:37 -0700
Subject: Re: Virtual Healey
> Healey folks,
>
> I thought some of you might be interested in the following.
>
> I'm combining two things I like ... Healeys and computer modeling. The
> initial results are at <http://www.loftusdesign.net/virtual_healey.htm>
> I know that everything is not 100% correct ... (does anyone have a 100
> that I can borrow for a few months ;-)) ..but I'm working on it.
>
> cheers,
> John Loftus
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 17:42:52 -0400
Subject: RE: Carb. Float Drain lines
The short drain pipes have black plastic hose fitted to them (TR6 fuel
line is great for the job) and they pass through that grommet that you
noticed with the tubes being long enough to extend well down the side of
the engine.
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Don Gschwind
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 3:46 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Cc: Gschwind, Don & Ellie; dgschwind@prodigy.net
Subject: Carb. Float Drain lines
Hi, Listers,
I have a question regarding the carb. float drain lines on a
late BJ8.
The brass lines from the banjo are about 2 in. long pointed straight
down.
There is no tubing or pipe beyond that end. Now, why I realize the carb
floats
should not overflow, it seems like if they did, there should be some
tubing to
route the flow lower in the engine compartment. I have some medical
vinyl
tubing that fits very nicely on the brass tubes, but where does it go
from
there? There is a hole with a rubber gromet in it on the front portion
of the
heat shield, is that where they are supposed to go? Please let me know
what is
correct for function, not concours. I don't like fires! TIA,
DON
BJ8 Pandora
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 17:45:14 -0400
Subject: RE: Virtual Healey
Those results are fantastic, BUT you have too much time on your hands
:-)
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Loftus
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 4:28 PM
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: Virtual Healey
Healey folks,
I thought some of you might be interested in the following.
I'm combining two things I like ... Healeys and computer modeling. The
initial results are at <http://www.loftusdesign.net/virtual_healey.htm>
I know that everything is not 100% correct ... (does anyone have a 100
that I can borrow for a few months ;-)) ..but I'm working on it.
cheers,
John Loftus
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 15:04:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Virtual Healey
He's a Sprite guy who used to work for Macromedia. He's got some nice 3D
stuff there.
------------------------------
At 01:28 PM 5/13/2002, you wrote:
>Healey folks,
>
>I thought some of you might be interested in the following.
>
>I'm combining two things I like ... Healeys and computer modeling. The
>initial results are at <http://www.loftusdesign.net/virtual_healey.htm>
>I know that everything is not 100% correct ... (does anyone have a 100
>that I can borrow for a few months ;-)) ..but I'm working on it.
>
>cheers,
>John Loftus
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 18:16:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Virtual Healey
Jim
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 18:19:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Platinum Plugs
GM
----- Original Message -----
> Has anyone had experience with platinum plugs in their Healey? Single
> or twin ground electrodes? Am I correct in assuming that the longer
> spark that is created would result in better combustion, and would
> also require the use of the stronger Lucas sport coil?
>
> Thanks for your input.
>
> Terry Blubaugh
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 18:26:02 -0400
Subject: Spark plugs
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 22:25:51 +0000
Subject: FW: A Fun Use of Java Scripting
check out this fun clock
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 17:48:13 -0700
Subject: Austin Healey 3000 Non-Adjustable Steering Wheels
What size tires... just kidding.
I have a question about steering wheels. My 1960 AH 3000 BT7 is still
brandishing it's original non-adjustable steering wheel but it is dog tired.
The center horn push is a solid 7 out of 10 but the bakelight (I presume
that's what that material is) is doing what most do after 42 years. It's
cracked and looks like it wants to be put to pasture.
Anyway I am here to ask if people are happy with the Moss replacements?
They're not cheap and it looks like Moto Lita options aren't much more. I
personally like the Moto Lita wheels but being a purist I really have a jones
for the old standard model. Anyway I am more than receptive to hearing why
Moto Lita may or may not rule over the old school but would also like to know
if anyone has a source for high quality originals. By originals I am sure I
am elluding to repro's. I look forward to your experience on this... I only
want to by one wheel... and I want it to feel and look nice.
Regards,
Matt Wilson-
1960 AH BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 18:22:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Non-Adjustable Steering Wheels
If you want a moto lita - I'll sell you the one off my
BJ8 for a good discount. They look great but are not
made properly for healeys - they obstruct the guages
in the straight driving position.
If you decide to get a wood rimmed wheel, get a
derrington style which you would mount in the
"mercedes" logo position in the straight forward
position (this is the way your standard wheel should
be mounted).
As far as repro wheels go, most on the market are very
nicely made. Most suppliers sell them for between
$250 - $400 depending where you buy them. I think
there are a couple guys around that'll restore your
original one for about the same price.
By the way - is it just your horn push that's crapped
out? why don't you find someone like bill bolton
(tricarb@aol.com) or David Nock
(www.britishcarspecialists.com) who would have an old
used horn button around who might sell it to you for
less than buying a whole new horn push assembly??
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net> wrote:
> Dear Healey Forum-
>
> What size tires... just kidding.
>
> I have a question about steering wheels. My 1960 AH
> 3000 BT7 is still
> brandishing it's original non-adjustable steering
> wheel but it is dog tired.
> The center horn push is a solid 7 out of 10 but the
> bakelight (I presume
> that's what that material is) is doing what most do
> after 42 years. It's
> cracked and looks like it wants to be put to
> pasture.
>
> Anyway I am here to ask if people are happy with the
> Moss replacements?
> They're not cheap and it looks like Moto Lita
> options aren't much more. I
> personally like the Moto Lita wheels but being a
> purist I really have a jones
> for the old standard model. Anyway I am more than
> receptive to hearing why
> Moto Lita may or may not rule over the old school
> but would also like to know
> if anyone has a source for high quality originals.
> By originals I am sure I
> am elluding to repro's. I look forward to your
> experience on this... I only
> want to by one wheel... and I want it to feel and
> look nice.
> Regards,
> Matt Wilson-
> 1960 AH BT7
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 18:24:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: Best Days at Tahoe
--- ZManDino@aol.com wrote:
> If you have limited time to spend at Lake Tahoe for
> the International Meet I
> would suggest Monday through Wednesday: Monday is
> the people's choice car
> show. There will be nearly 550 Austin Healeys
> representing every model made
> located in one place. Bring your camera with wide
> angle lens. Two different
> ralleys take place Tuesday. Watching all that Healey
> steel tie up traffic on
> hiway 50 leaving the Horizon Casino will be great
> fun. Wednesday is the
> Autocross and timed speed event, plus the Funkhana
> which is a blast. These
> events take place at the Tahoe airport and last all
> day.
>
> Alex BN7
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 21:33:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Re: Timing chain
----- Original Message -----
From: <Csooch1@aol.com>
To: <Rmoment@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 10:10 AM
Subject: Re: Re: Timing chain
> Thanks to all for the replies and the help.
>
> This is not the first engine I have rebuilt, so I decided to pull out the
degree wheel and the dial indicator to verify timing.
>
> What I find very strange as far as the timing setup procedure is this: If
I line up both the crank keyway and the cam keyway straight up like the
books say, I have the crank at top dead center. However, the position of
the cam is not as it would be at the top of the compression stroke, with
both valves completely closed. But, rather both valves are slightly open as
at the end of the exhaust stroke and at the beginning of the intake stroke.
>
> I say that this is odd, since every other engine that I have rebuilt calls
for setting the cam and the crank at positions that match top dead center on
the compression stroke...just as the plug would be firing.
>
> Either way, I have checked with the dial indicator and degree wheel, and
all looks good. I had the cam reground, which is why I am being so picky.
>
> Anyone else out there think the procedure is a bit strange?
>
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8
> XJ6
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 18:35:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Non-Adjustable Steering Wheels
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>; "Healey Forum"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 6:22 PM
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Non-Adjustable Steering Wheels
> Matt -
>
> If you want a moto lita - I'll sell you the one off my
> BJ8 for a good discount. They look great but are not
> made properly for healeys - they obstruct the guages
> in the straight driving position.
>
> If you decide to get a wood rimmed wheel, get a
> derrington style which you would mount in the
> "mercedes" logo position in the straight forward
> position (this is the way your standard wheel should
> be mounted).
>
> As far as repro wheels go, most on the market are very
> nicely made. Most suppliers sell them for between
> $250 - $400 depending where you buy them. I think
> there are a couple guys around that'll restore your
> original one for about the same price.
>
> By the way - is it just your horn push that's crapped
> out? why don't you find someone like bill bolton
> (tricarb@aol.com) or David Nock
> (www.britishcarspecialists.com) who would have an old
> used horn button around who might sell it to you for
> less than buying a whole new horn push assembly??
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net> wrote:
> > Dear Healey Forum-
> >
> > What size tires... just kidding.
> >
> > I have a question about steering wheels. My 1960 AH
> > 3000 BT7 is still
> > brandishing it's original non-adjustable steering
> > wheel but it is dog tired.
> > The center horn push is a solid 7 out of 10 but the
> > bakelight (I presume
> > that's what that material is) is doing what most do
> > after 42 years. It's
> > cracked and looks like it wants to be put to
> > pasture.
> >
> > Anyway I am here to ask if people are happy with the
> > Moss replacements?
> > They're not cheap and it looks like Moto Lita
> > options aren't much more. I
> > personally like the Moto Lita wheels but being a
> > purist I really have a jones
> > for the old standard model. Anyway I am more than
> > receptive to hearing why
> > Moto Lita may or may not rule over the old school
> > but would also like to know
> > if anyone has a source for high quality originals.
> > By originals I am sure I
> > am elluding to repro's. I look forward to your
> > experience on this... I only
> > want to by one wheel... and I want it to feel and
> > look nice.
> > Regards,
> > Matt Wilson-
> > 1960 AH BT7
> LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
> http://launch.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 18:54:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Virtual Healey
Can you incoroporate that into a playstation game like
Driver?!! I'd like to run that hot number through the
streets of San Francisco at full throttle. Great
job...!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- John Loftus <loftusdesign@cox.net> wrote:
> Healey folks,
>
> I thought some of you might be interested in the
> following.
>
> I'm combining two things I like ... Healeys and
> computer modeling. The
> initial results are at
> <http://www.loftusdesign.net/virtual_healey.htm>
> I know that everything is not 100% correct ...
> (does anyone have a 100
> that I can borrow for a few months ;-)) ..but I'm
> working on it.
>
> cheers,
> John Loftus
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rmoment at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 22:05:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Non-Adjustable Steering Wheels
> As far as repro wheels go, most on the market are very
> nicely made. Most suppliers sell them for between
> $250 - $400 depending where you buy them. I think
> there are a couple guys around that'll restore your
> original one for about the same price.
>
A note: it is IMPOSSIBLE to have a restored wheel that won't crack in a few
years. The repro wheels for 6-cyl cars are so good, and far less likely to
crack, that I wouldn't hesitate to buy one. They need a little detailing
like sanding and polishing the parting line, but that is easy to do.
Unfortunately, for the 100s there is no reproduction being made, so fixing is
the only option if you want an original wheel. And you can plan on repairing
cracks every 5 years or so -- some from the repairs and some from newly
cracked areas that were fine before.
Roger
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 22:11:37 -0400
Subject: Re: shock oil - is this stuff ok to use? ISO: what does this
Also, isn't power steering fluid the same thing as automatic transmission
fluid?
Ryan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Russ & Natalie Bamsey" <ia549@worldchat.com>
To: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 9:40 PM
Subject: Re: shock oil - is this stuff ok to use?
> Hello Ryan and Listers;
> The product you describe (Royco 756) is too light for our shock
> absorbers. Armstrong originally put 20wt hydraulic oil in them and today
> this is called AW or ISO 68. I would not suggest a synthetic oil for your
> shocks as there might be a compatability problem with the seals like there
> is when you use transmission fluid (turns them to mush). I would suggest
> you return this oil and go and buy a good quality hydraulic oil (ISO68) at
a
> tractor supply store or better yet just go get a bottle of power steering
> fluid for your everyday car and use that . Hope this helps...Russ Bamsey
> (ShocDoc)
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
> To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2002 11:30 PM
> Subject: shock oil - is this stuff ok to use?
>
>
> > I bought a quart of what was reported to be shock oil for my lever arm
> shocks.
> > What I received was a quart can like an old can of motor oil - metal top
> and
> > bottom, cardboard walls. The company is Royal Lubrication and the
> product is
> > called Royco 756.
> >
> > I went to their web page and found this:
> >
> > http://www.royallube.com/Pages/thydr.htm
> >
> > the product is listed about 1/2 way down the page. It says the product
is
> ISO
> > 15, whatever that means.
> >
> > The stuff is very thin and red, and looks like automatic transmission
> fluid.
> >
> > Before I blast the seller, is this stuff ok for shock oil? The stuff I
> bought
> > from him 5 years ago came in a tall white16 oz bottle with a squeeze top
> which
> > said "shock oil" and was reported to be made especially for Armstrong
> lever
> > shocks. Was clear and feels like 20 weight oil. I was hoping for more
of
> the
> > same, but couldn't check it until I opened the can.
> >
> > The new stuff is some type of synthetic.
> >
> > Ryan
> > BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 22:08:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Best Days at Tahoe
> If you have limited time to spend at Lake Tahoe for the International Meet
I
> would suggest Monday through Wednesday: Monday is the people's choice car
> show. There will be nearly 550 Austin Healeys representing every model
made
> located in one place. Bring your camera with wide angle lens. Two
different
> ralleys take place Tuesday. Watching all that Healey steel tie up traffic
on
> hiway 50 leaving the Horizon Casino will be great fun. Wednesday is the
> Autocross and timed speed event, plus the Funkhana which is a blast. These
> events take place at the Tahoe airport and last all day.
>
> Alex BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 23:48:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Non-Adjustable Steering Wheels
Have bought 2 steering wheels for 6 cyl cars from Healey Surgeons in the
last couple years, one for a friend. The first one I got for my car was out
of round and had wobble but Inan made good on it. All were excellent repros
in appearance.
Keith Pennell
> Dear Healey Forum-
> Anyway I am here to ask if people are happy with the Moss replacements?
> They're not cheap and it looks like Moto Lita options aren't much more. I
> personally like the Moto Lita wheels but being a purist I really have a
jones
> for the old standard model. Anyway I am more than receptive to hearing
why
> Moto Lita may or may not rule over the old school but would also like to
know
> if anyone has a source for high quality originals. By originals I am sure
I
> am elluding to repro's. I look forward to your experience on this... I
only
> want to by one wheel... and I want it to feel and look nice.
> Regards,
> Matt Wilson-
> 1960 AH BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From <caudle1 at charter.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 23:49:38 -0400
Subject: cruise control
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 20:45:01 -0700
Subject: Was there an answer to the Video question?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 23:57:46 -0400
Subject: Re: shock oil - is this stuff ok to use? ISO: what does this
ISO 68 means that if you have a viscosity at 40 degrees celcius test (ASTM
D445) run on a new lube reference sample of a product, you should obtain a
result of 68 +/- about 10%. Ditto for ISO 15 except you should obtain a
result of 15 +/- about 10%.
No, though some power steering systems are designed to use it.
GM
----- Original Message -----
> Can someone explain how ISO ratings work? what is the difference between
> ISO 68 and ISO 15?
>
> Also, isn't power steering fluid the same thing as automatic transmission
> fluid?
>
> Ryan
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 21:27:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: cruise control
cruise control in a Healey is a fine idea because it
means you are actually driving the car rather than
looking at it in your garage. Kudos to you. Just do
a nice mounting, hidden preferably, and I think even
the purists will be fine with it.
Hot rodders have been supplying after market cruise
control systems for years, and julianos (in my
experience) has good products for decent prices:
http://www.julianos.com/cruise_control.html
jc whitney has a kit as well (for much less):
http://www.jcwhitney.com/product.jhtml?CATID=4950&BQ=jcw2
My gut tells me, however, that you will likely have to
convert your car to a cable operated throttle linkage.
You can get them from healey guys who specialize in
racing, such as:
www.cape-international.com
or
www.bighealey.co.uk
but if you are lucky, the old linkage may work with
the kit.
good luck and hope to see you at Tahoe (Monday or
Wednesday!)
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- caudle1@charter.net wrote:
> Before I get blasted about this request, let me
> explain. When I drive all day
> my leg cramps and make my rear end feel like I'm
> sitting on a tennis ball!!!
> Sunday I started to plan my trip from the
> Carolina's to Lake Tahoe, and
> realized I'm going to be sitting on a tennis ball
> for 7?8? days. I need to do
> something to assist leaving the tennis ball at home.
> What input can the list
> give on cruise control ?? I checked the archives and
> couldn't find anything.
> This is a big THANKS
> Dave
> blue bj8 in blue ridge mts.
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 22:20:13 -0600
Subject: Re: Timing chain
Bill Lawrence
Csooch1@aol.com wrote:
> Thanks to all for the replies and the help.
>
> This is not the first engine I have rebuilt, so I decided to pull out the
>degree wheel and the dial indicator to verify timing.
>
> What I find very strange as far as the timing setup procedure is this: If I
>line up both the crank keyway and the cam keyway straight up like the books
>say, I have the crank at top dead center. However, the position of the cam is
>not as it would be at the top of the compression stroke, with both valves
>completely closed. But, rather both valves are slightly open as at the end of
>the exhaust stroke and at the beginning of the intake stroke.
>
> I say that this is odd, since every other engine that I have rebuilt calls
>for setting the cam and the crank at positions that match top dead center on
>the compression stroke...just as the plug would be firing.
>
> Either way, I have checked with the dial indicator and degree wheel, and all
>looks good. I had the cam reground, which is why I am being so picky.
>
> Anyone else out there think the procedure is a bit strange?
>
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8
> XJ6
>
> <<
> The manuals show that on 100s the two gear marks need to be
> directly across
> from each other, while on 6-cyl cars the cam one is up while
> the crank one is
> down. Since the crank gear is interchangable between 100s and
> 6-cyl engines,
> you need to make sure that you put the gear mark in the proper
> place in case
> <<
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 21:40:14 -0700
Subject: Re: cruise control
> Before I get blasted about this request, let me explain. When I drive all day
> my leg cramps and make my rear end feel like I'm sitting on a tennis ball!!!
> Sunday I started to plan my trip from the Carolina's to Lake Tahoe, and
> realized I'm going to be sitting on a tennis ball for 7?8? days. I need to do
> something to assist leaving the tennis ball at home. What input can the list
> give on cruise control ?? I checked the archives and couldn't find anything.
Put a brick on the accelerator pedal :)
Nope, OSHA wouldn't go for that .. How about a potentiometer on the
fuel pump electrical circuit ... You could vary the voltage to the fuel
pump ... if you didn't mind a lot of sputtering and lurching ...
Seriously, I don't see the problem .. my butt's usually numb by the third day.
I could be sitting on a basketball and wouldn't feel it.
I don't think it's too feasible ... even if you could rig the control mechanism
you'd need a lot of juice for a solenoid strong enough to hold the throttles
open. You might conceivably be able to do something with a vacuum
solenoid, though it would be pretty big.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 22:27:10 -0600
Subject: Re: Timing chain
Bill Lawrence
Earl Kagna wrote:
> Chris:
>
> >From somewhere in the deep, dark past of my garage, I seem to recall that,
> in the timing chain installation procedure, with the keyways properly
> aligned, pistons 1 and 6 are both at TDC, but it is actually #6 that is on
> the firing stroke. Check the valves on #6 - I think that you'll find them
> closed, with #1 'on the rock'.
>
> My experience is with the Healey 6cyl engine, so I can't speak about the
> four, although our MGB is the same ie: #4 is at TDC on the firing stroke in
> the sprocket alignment position.
>
> Bottom line, I believe from your description that you are fine - drop 'er in
> and go for a ride!
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B.C. Canada
> '62 BT7
> '67 BJ8
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Csooch1@aol.com>
> To: <Rmoment@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 8:10 AM
> Subject: Re: Re: Timing chain
>
> Thanks to all for the replies and the help.
>
> This is not the first engine I have rebuilt, so I decided to pull out the
> degree wheel and the dial indicator to verify timing.
>
> What I find very strange as far as the timing setup procedure is this: If I
> line up both the crank keyway and the cam keyway straight up like the books
> say, I have the crank at top dead center. However, the position of the cam
> is not as it would be at the top of the compression stroke, with both valves
> completely closed. But, rather both valves are slightly open as at the end
> of the exhaust stroke and at the beginning of the intake stroke.
>
> I say that this is odd, since every other engine that I have rebuilt calls
> for setting the cam and the crank at positions that match top dead center on
> the compression stroke...just as the plug would be firing.
>
> Either way, I have checked with the dial indicator and degree wheel, and all
> looks good. I had the cam reground, which is why I am being so picky.
>
> Anyone else out there think the procedure is a bit strange?
>
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8
> XJ6
>
> <<
> The manuals show that on 100s the two gear marks need to be
> directly across
> from each other, while on 6-cyl cars the cam one is up while
> the crank one is
> down. Since the crank gear is interchangable between 100s and
> 6-cyl engines,
> you need to make sure that you put the gear mark in the proper
> place in case
> <<
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 22:35:09 -0600
Subject: Re: Virtual Healey
Bill Lawrence
John Loftus wrote:
> Healey folks,
>
> I thought some of you might be interested in the following.
>
> I'm combining two things I like ... Healeys and computer modeling. The
> initial results are at <http://www.loftusdesign.net/virtual_healey.htm>
> I know that everything is not 100% correct ... (does anyone have a 100
> that I can borrow for a few months ;-)) ..but I'm working on it.
>
> cheers,
> John Loftus
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 22:47:04 -0600
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Non-Adjustable Steering Wheels
Bill Lawrence
matt wilson wrote:
> Dear Healey Forum-
>
> What size tires... just kidding.
>
> I have a question about steering wheels. My 1960 AH 3000 BT7 is still
> brandishing it's original non-adjustable steering wheel but it is dog tired.
> The center horn push is a solid 7 out of 10 but the bakelight (I presume
> that's what that material is) is doing what most do after 42 years. It's
> cracked and looks like it wants to be put to pasture.
>
> Anyway I am here to ask if people are happy with the Moss replacements?
> They're not cheap and it looks like Moto Lita options aren't much more. I
> personally like the Moto Lita wheels but being a purist I really have a jones
> for the old standard model. Anyway I am more than receptive to hearing why
> Moto Lita may or may not rule over the old school but would also like to know
> if anyone has a source for high quality originals. By originals I am sure I
> am elluding to repro's. I look forward to your experience on this... I only
> want to by one wheel... and I want it to feel and look nice.
> Regards,
> Matt Wilson-
> 1960 AH BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 00:07:46 -0500
Subject: Re: cruise control
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 01:34:53 EDT
Subject: Re: cruise control
Rick
San Diego
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 22:42:33 -0700
Subject: Re: cruise control
The latest unit I installed came from Whitney. I mounted the vacuum unit
inside the left fender securing it to the bottom of the wheel arch. All you
see is four sheet metal screw heads inside the wheel arch, the cable coming
up to the accelerator relay shaft (spindle) (Moss, Engine Controls, BJ8, No.
73), and wires going to the coil and through the firewall.
The hardware that comes with the unit may not be strong enough to grip the
shaft. Somewhere I acquired a solid brass arm that fit the shaft and it
works very well.
Go for it. It's worth the effort when you get on those long, lonesome,
roads for long hauls.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: <caudle1@charter.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 8:49 PM
Subject: cruise control
> Before I get blasted about this request, let me explain. When I drive all
day
> my leg cramps and make my rear end feel like I'm sitting on a tennis
ball!!!
> Sunday I started to plan my trip from the Carolina's to Lake Tahoe, and
> realized I'm going to be sitting on a tennis ball for 7?8? days. I need to
do
> something to assist leaving the tennis ball at home. What input can the
list
> give on cruise control ?? I checked the archives and couldn't find
anything.
> This is a big THANKS
> Dave
> blue bj8 in blue ridge mts.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 22:52:29 -0700
Subject: Re: Pertronix?
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobsoniaharris@aol.com>
To: <flyhihealey@hotmail.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 12:39 PM
Subject: Re: Pertronix?
> Warren,
> I have Petronix PN LU-162AP12 and it's for a positive ground car.
> Bob
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From <Joe at Farley.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 23:05:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Pertronix?
http://yugop.com/ver3/stuff/03/fla.html
Joe
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of eyera3@attbi.com
> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 3:26 PM
> To: Jeff Schwartz; Stan Saunders; Michael McDowell; Todd Mcdonald;
> healey list; chuck lichter; Dan Kogan; Andy Katcher; Calvin Jones; Sybil
> Garry; SAMANTHA GARRY; Michelle Erbs; Donna R Erbs; Jack Birnbach; KEVIN
> Belliotti
> Subject: FW: A Fun Use of Java Scripting
>
>
> http://alpha.ciesin.org/users/bourdeau/Clock-
> Calendar.html>
>
> check out this fun clock
>
> --
> Ira Erbs
=============================================
Joe@Farley.net
'66 BJ8
'77 C77/R @ DVO
NIL DESPERANDVM ET ILLIGITIMVM CABERVNDON EL MONDO
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 05:22:37 -0400
Subject: Re: cruise control
-----Original Message-----
From: WilKo@aol.com <WilKo@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, May 14, 2002 1:53 AM
Subject: Re: cruise control
>I've seen a couple of Big Healeys with cruise controls installed. Most
likely
>you'll see some at Tahoe. Ask Around.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 20:44:01 +1000
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Non-Adjustable Steering Wheels
I have a 13in dia Mota-Lita steering wheel (alloy/leather) which has been on
my BJ8 since 1969. I don't quite understand the comments made regarding the
wheel spokes obstructing the guages in the straight ahead position? The
obstruction (if any) is caused by the smaller diameter, wider grip (1 in
wide) wheel - not the spokes. I can see my guages fine. Here is a picture of
my dash http://www.myaustinhealey.com/austin_healey_3000_pics_interior.html
This picture was taken standing behind the car (centre of car - shooting
from above the rollbar). When seated (I'm 5ft 10in) I can actually see the
oil/water temp guage - and the additional (very accurate) tacho on the dash
isn't because I can't see the original tacho - it is only to comply with the
racing rules of the era (pre 1970 when the car was first raced - original
intruments had to remain, additional/upgraded instruments had to be
separately mounted). Either way - the spokes only obsure my view of the
windcreen washer pump button.
Here are a selection of Moto-lita wheels
http://www.racecarsdirect.com/cars/details.asp?id=1579&cat=0
Hope this helps.
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
> > --- matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net> wrote:
> > > Dear Healey Forum-
> > >
> > > What size tires... just kidding.
> > >
> > > I have a question about steering wheels. My 1960 AH
> > > 3000 BT7 is still
> > > brandishing it's original non-adjustable steering
> > > wheel but it is dog tired.
> > > The center horn push is a solid 7 out of 10 but the
> > > bakelight (I presume
> > > that's what that material is) is doing what most do
> > > after 42 years. It's
> > > cracked and looks like it wants to be put to
> > > pasture.
> > >
> > > Anyway I am here to ask if people are happy with the
> > > Moss replacements?
> > > They're not cheap and it looks like Moto Lita
> > > options aren't much more. I
> > > personally like the Moto Lita wheels but being a
> > > purist I really have a jones
> > > for the old standard model. Anyway I am more than
> > > receptive to hearing why
> > > Moto Lita may or may not rule over the old school
> > > but would also like to know
> > > if anyone has a source for high quality originals.
> > > By originals I am sure I
> > > am elluding to repro's. I look forward to your
> > > experience on this... I only
> > > want to by one wheel... and I want it to feel and
> > > look nice.
> > > Regards,
> > > Matt Wilson-
> > > 1960 AH BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From <caudle1 at charter.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 09:05:49 -0400
Subject: cruise control
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Blair L. Harber" <blharber at vaxxine.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 09:26:44 -0400
Subject: UK Auction of Healey Automobilia
I have copied Kate with this email so that others could contact her
directly for further information. This sounds like the one and only chance
for Healey enthusiasts to find these genuine collectibles.
Blair L. Harber (Canada)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 09:34:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Re: Timing chain -BJ8
Thanks again,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
>>
You need to remember that TDC on the compression stroke for #1
is TDC on the exhaust stroke for #6. To be on compression the
intake should be ramped closed and the exhaust preparing to
ramp open. The angle between the two lobes should be split
equally. A Triumph mechanic I talked to about this called
this state of affairs being "on the rock". At the same time #6
should have the exhaust valve beginning close and the intake
valve beginning to
open. The state of having both valves open at the same time is
called valve overlap and is used to overcome inertial forces in
the air/exhaust streams. If you get it wrong and follow the
distributor setup instructions you will be 180 degrees out on
the spark timing. As for whether the valves are opening or
closing, remember that the engine turns counter-clockwise.
Bill Lawrence
<<
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Kbah100 at cs.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 10:44:14 EDT
Subject: Re: cruise control
Ken Beck
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from the outside. I've seen some pretty trick looking aluminum ducting
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 09:56:20 -0500
Subject: Air Induction to Radiator
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From TBanks at LEVI.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 08:00:42 -0700
Subject: Steering alignment
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From COPPIFAN at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 11:01:16 -0400
Subject: radio speakers
Bill
'67 BJ8
Annapolis
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jim Morrison <nljm at shaw.ca>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 10:06:51 -0700
Subject: RE: radio speakers
The speaker has two terminals - the radio has two speaker wires (or
terminals). Put one wire on each terminal! Try it out of the car first.
Make sure you have the polarity right before you connect power. There may be
some indication of polarity (+ / - terminals/wires, etc.) on the radio case.
If you don't know if the radio is positive or negative ground get a radio
tech to look at it and tell you before you power up and blow something.
You will need an antenna connected to pick up anything but static.
Good luck,
Jim Morrison
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of COPPIFAN@aol.com
Sent: 14-May-02 8:01 AM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: radio speakers
Recently purchased a BMC radio from E bay. It needs an external speaker.
Just 2 wires coming from the unit in addition to the power wire. Suggestions
as to where I can get a little speaker to hide under the dash? Would I hook
both wires to one speaker?
Thanks,
Bill
'67 BJ8
Annapolis
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From meditionm at netscape.net
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 13:11:21 -0400
Subject: RE: cruise control
<caudle1@charter.net> wrote:
>Thanks for the responses. I found a small 1&1/8'' high x 2'' wide that says
>easy to (?) use off driveshaft with magnet kit. (JC Whitney) I can install
>this small face out of site. Has anyone installed cruise control that uses
>magnet kit?
>Thanks
>Dave
>blue bj8 in blue ridge mts.
__________________________________________________________________
Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience
the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape!
http://shopnow.netscape.com/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 10:14:00 -0700
Subject: Help for Heartbroken Healey Dude
Like driving over our heads, etc, etc.
This last weekend I was contacted by a (30+ year infected) Healey Dude
who related to me the following heartbreaking story,
Back in 1968, he purchased his first car, (1965 BJ-8) drove it for a few
years
then placed it in storage. Approximately four years ago he decided to
restore
the car as it was all original and everything was there from new.
He did his homework well (he thought) by researching all the Healey
restorers
he could locate and asking other Healey owners for recommendations.
He decided on Healey Masters to do the restoration.
(As most of us know by now, Healey Masters is belly-up and in the wind.)
The restoration was coming along to his satisfaction.
Feeling secure, (error) he fronted lot's money $00,000.00.
Making a long sad story short, he and approximately 18 to 20 other Healey
owners are in the same shape.
All Healey related items and cars were moved out of the building and placed
in
unprotected piles and placed in and upon the cars, frames, etc, as best as
could
be determined what belonged with what..
The state of completion of his car was;
Rolling chassis, wiring, hard lines, etc, pimered, ready for paint.
Frame powdercoated Healey blue.
Approximately 75% complete.
The last time he saw the car prior to the problems at Healey Masters, all
the loose
parts and sheetmetal were either on or in the car in boxes.
Upon being informed of problems at Healey Masters he went to the location
to ascertain
what if any problems he may have.
He found the car in a outside shed parked infront of another Healey.
Not being able, at the time, to remove the car he decided to return for the
recovery.
Upon his return, he found the following items missing;
Transmission / Overdrive #1554
Boot lid, with four luggage rack mounting holes
All gauges
Entire dash
Heater box
Headlight bowels
Fuel tank
Radiator
Windscreen
Windwings
Door glass registers
Door sill finishers
Etc.
Also, at the time of his return, the Healey he was parked infront of had
been removed.
The owner is not a lister and asked me to notice the list for him.
Owner;
Nelson Tharp
(323) 650-6670
(818) 434-9200
If the person / persons have these items in error, please contact Nelson.
If the person / persons have these items as a lapse in judgment, contact
Nelson. (No Questions Asked).
(Think for a moment, If the rolls were reversed ?????)
Kirk Kvam
62BT7 Tri-Carb
59/60 BN7 Nasty Boy
(Infected since July 1961.)
ps, If any listers have spares of the above items, and can part with them at
a reasonable price, you might think
about contacting Nelson. This guy is completely devastated.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 10:17:34 -0700
Subject: RE: cruise control magnet
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 12:29:35 -0500
Subject: Web address needed
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 13:37:02 EDT
Subject: Re: Web address needed
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 13:41:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Web address needed
<< Hi All, can anyone help me out with a web address for Cape International??
Thanks,
Jack >>
how to fish:
go to google.com and search "cape international" (in quotes)
you'll get list of "hits"
one will be:
http://www.cape-international.com/
enjoy,
Rick
San Diego
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 10:40:05 -0700
Subject: RE: radio speakers
--------------
At 10:06 AM 5/14/2002, you wrote:
>Radio Shack used to have a nice little 4 X 6" speaker (oval shape) that fits
>inside the BJ8 console.
>
>The speaker has two terminals - the radio has two speaker wires (or
>terminals). Put one wire on each terminal! Try it out of the car first.
>
>Make sure you have the polarity right before you connect power. There may be
>some indication of polarity (+ / - terminals/wires, etc.) on the radio case.
>If you don't know if the radio is positive or negative ground get a radio
>tech to look at it and tell you before you power up and blow something.
>
>You will need an antenna connected to pick up anything but static.
>
>Good luck,
>Jim Morrison
>
>
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
>[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of COPPIFAN@aol.com
>Sent: 14-May-02 8:01 AM
>To: Healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: radio speakers
>
>
>Recently purchased a BMC radio from E bay. It needs an external speaker.
>Just 2 wires coming from the unit in addition to the power wire. Suggestions
>as to where I can get a little speaker to hide under the dash? Would I hook
>both wires to one speaker?
>Thanks,
>
>Bill
>'67 BJ8
>Annapolis
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from the back as much as possible. Does that make sense? see, what happens is
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 13:53:09 EDT
Subject: Re: radio speakers
In a message dated 5/14/02 9:44:09, bkatz@handsonresearch.com writes:
<< If it is the wrong polarity for the car, be sure one of the speaker
terminals isn't connected to the speaker basket itself, or you'll likely
get a short when you attach it to the car.
--------------
At 10:06 AM 5/14/2002, you wrote:
>Radio Shack used to have a nice little 4 X 6" speaker (oval shape) that fits
>inside the BJ8 console.
>
>The speaker has two terminals - the radio has two speaker wires (or
>terminals). Put one wire on each terminal! Try it out of the car first.
>
>Make sure you have the polarity right before you connect power. There may be
>some indication of polarity (+ / - terminals/wires, etc.) on the radio case.
>If you don't know if the radio is positive or negative ground get a radio
>tech to look at it and tell you before you power up and blow something.
>
>You will need an antenna connected to pick up anything but static.
>
>Good luck,
>Jim Morrison
>
>
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
>[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of COPPIFAN@aol.com
>Sent: 14-May-02 8:01 AM
>To: Healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: radio speakers
>
>
>Recently purchased a BMC radio from E bay. It needs an external speaker.
>Just 2 wires coming from the unit in addition to the power wire. Suggestions
>as to where I can get a little speaker to hide under the dash? Would I hook
>both wires to one speaker?
>Thanks,
>
>Bill
>'67 BJ8
>Annapolis
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 13:58:57 -0400
Subject: RE: Steering alignment
If you didn't adjust anything in the steering I cannot conceive of any
way that changing the calipers could affect wheel alignment or steering
wheel position.
I would suggest that perhaps you may have switched sides with the wheels
or have developed a low tire on one side.
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of TBanks@LEVI.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2002 11:01 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Steering alignment
Greetings listers,
I just replaced front w/wheels, hubs and brake discs (rotors?) on my '64
BJ8. I had the front of the car sitting up on axle stands under the
spring
plates. While removing/fitting calipers, I was too lazy to get up and
alter
the angle of the axles by turning the steering wheel. Instead I just
pushed
the end of the hub left or right. Anyway, once I finished and lowered
the
car, my steering wheel has developed an offset of about 5 degrees
clockwise
when steering dead ahead. Any ideas why this might be?
TIA,
Tom Banks
'64 BJ8
Belgium
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 10:37:41 -0700
Subject: Re: cruise control
I have had a cruise control in by BJ8 for 15 years or so - it really helps
on those long, hot driving days to be able to rest your right leg (other
than at pit stops) for a few minutes while on the move!
One caution - can't remember whether or not you are NEG ground - if not,
you're going to have to deal with that one way or another.
My unit is now discontinued. It uses an electric servo to actuate the
throttle linkage, which is totally stock. It also uses a sensor wired to
the ignition coil, rather than rotating magnets - a lot simpler!
I have often thought of upgrading the system, using a vaccuum servo, which
would probably work a bit less jerkily. I agree with (the other) Len and
heartily recommend the project, and will be interested to meet you at Tahoe
and see what you came up with. We will be there in the tri-carb, which does
not have a cruise control installed.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
----- Original Message -----
From: <caudle1@charter.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 8:49 PM
Subject: cruise control
Before I get blasted about this request, let me explain. When I drive all
day
my leg cramps and make my rear end feel like I'm sitting on a tennis ball!!!
Sunday I started to plan my trip from the Carolina's to Lake Tahoe, and
realized I'm going to be sitting on a tennis ball for 7?8? days. I need to
do
something to assist leaving the tennis ball at home. What input can the list
give on cruise control ?? I checked the archives and couldn't find anything.
This is a big THANKS
Dave
blue bj8 in blue ridge mts.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 13:21:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Help for Heartbroken Healey Dude
62BT7 wrote:
>As we all know,
> Once the Healey bug bites you, we are infected for
>life.
>And that this infection has caused us to do things we wish we hadn't.
>
>Like driving over our heads, etc, etc.
>
>This last weekend I was contacted by a (30+ year infected) Healey Dude
>who related to me the following heartbreaking story,
>
>Back in 1968, he purchased his first car, (1965 BJ-8) drove it for a few
>years
>then placed it in storage. Approximately four years ago he decided to
>restore
>the car as it was all original and everything was there from new.
>
>He did his homework well (he thought) by researching all the Healey
>restorers
>he could locate and asking other Healey owners for recommendations.
>
>He decided on Healey Masters to do the restoration.
>
>(As most of us know by now, Healey Masters is belly-up and in the wind.)
>
>The restoration was coming along to his satisfaction.
>
> Feeling secure, (error) he fronted lot's money $00,000.00.
>
>Making a long sad story short, he and approximately 18 to 20 other Healey
>owners are in the same shape.
>
>All Healey related items and cars were moved out of the building and placed
>in
>unprotected piles and placed in and upon the cars, frames, etc, as best as
>could
>be determined what belonged with what..
>
>The state of completion of his car was;
>
>Rolling chassis, wiring, hard lines, etc, pimered, ready for paint.
>Frame powdercoated Healey blue.
>Approximately 75% complete.
>
>The last time he saw the car prior to the problems at Healey Masters, all
>the loose
>parts and sheetmetal were either on or in the car in boxes.
>
>Upon being informed of problems at Healey Masters he went to the location
>to ascertain
>what if any problems he may have.
>
>He found the car in a outside shed parked infront of another Healey.
>
>Not being able, at the time, to remove the car he decided to return for the
>recovery.
>
>Upon his return, he found the following items missing;
>
>Transmission / Overdrive #1554
>Boot lid, with four luggage rack mounting holes
>All gauges
>Entire dash
>Heater box
>Headlight bowels
>Fuel tank
>Radiator
>Windscreen
>Windwings
>Door glass registers
>Door sill finishers
>Etc.
>Also, at the time of his return, the Healey he was parked infront of had
>been removed.
>
>The owner is not a lister and asked me to notice the list for him.
>
>Owner;
>
>Nelson Tharp
>(323) 650-6670
>(818) 434-9200
>
>If the person / persons have these items in error, please contact Nelson.
>If the person / persons have these items as a lapse in judgment, contact
>Nelson. (No Questions Asked).
>
>(Think for a moment, If the rolls were reversed ?????)
>
>Kirk Kvam
>62BT7 Tri-Carb
>59/60 BN7 Nasty Boy
>(Infected since July 1961.)
>
>ps, If any listers have spares of the above items, and can part with them at
>a reasonable price, you might think
>about contacting Nelson. This guy is completely devastated.
>
>/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 18:41:15 +0000
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Non-Adjustable Steering Wheels
Mark Fawcett
> The Motolita will look funky on a Healey because the
wheel is supposed to have
> three spokes spaced at 120 degrees and one spoke
pointing upward so you can
read
> the gauges through the spokes. The cream of wheels
for a Healey is the
> Derrington wheel which was offered as an option. They
are being reproduced,
but
> they're not cheap.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 14:48:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Non-Adjustable Steering Wheels
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 5/14/02 10:43:56, fawcett1187@attbi.com writes:
<< Listers,
I have a beautiful "derrington style" 120 degree slotted
aluminum/wood steering wheel made by Moto Lita.
Available from Gary Hodson at (913) 441-8335. Gary is in
Kansas. When I got the sterring wheel, "Moto Lita-Made
in France" was stamped into the center ring. When I
bought mine, it was $195+$10 shipping and handling. I'll
send a photo to anyone that asks.
Mark Fawcett >>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 18:58:13 +0000
Subject: front ride height
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 19:22:27 +0000
Subject: re: steering wheel
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Allen Williams <awill at bama.ua.edu>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 14:38:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Non-Adjustable Steering Wheels
WilKo@aol.com wrote:
> You can see one of these wheels at:
> http://members.aol.com/wilko/derrington.html
>
> Rick
> San Diego
>
> In a message dated 5/14/02 10:43:56, fawcett1187@attbi.com writes:
>
> << Listers,
> I have a beautiful "derrington style" 120 degree slotted
> aluminum/wood steering wheel made by Moto Lita.
> Available from Gary Hodson at (913) 441-8335. Gary is in
> Kansas. When I got the sterring wheel, "Moto Lita-Made
> in France" was stamped into the center ring. When I
> bought mine, it was $195+$10 shipping and handling. I'll
> send a photo to anyone that asks.
>
> Mark Fawcett >>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 21:52:16 +0100
Subject: URX 727 up for sale
not a few of you may be interested to look at Coy's website
http://www.coys.com/...Probably the most famous Healey of all URX 727,
Pat Moss's Liege-Rome-Liege winning car, is up for sale. There is a
"somewhat fullsome" description of it in the online catalogue, it is lot 89.
It will be interesting to see what it fetches - and where it goes. IMHO
it really ought to stay in the UK, but then it depends on who can win
the bidding. Gaydon (British Motor Industry Heritage Trust - or Beaulieu
ought to buy it. Ominously they aren't providing a public estimate of
what they think that it will fetch.
Peter Dzwig
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 17:40:52 -0400
Subject: RE: front ride height
Short of changing the front springs the only way I know of to change the
ride height is to insert some spacers between the spring pan and the
lower wishbone arms.
This is quite easy to do and results in the car being lowered about
twice the height of the spacers fitted.
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of fawcett1187@attbi.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2002 2:58 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: front ride height
Is there any way to adjust the front ride height on a
big Healey? The front end of the car just seems to sit
too high. I measured the gap between the top of my front
tires and the wheel arch at about 3 1/2 inches. The
height at the top of the headlight rings is about 30
inches from the ground. When I put the front suspension
together I used a 1 1/2 inch wood spacer to keep the
upper shock arms off the rubber bumpers on the mounting
perches. This is the recommended procedure as I recall.
Is this normal and if not what can be done to adjust
this.
Thanks,
Mark Fawcett
59 BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 21:40:39 +0000
Subject: Re: front ride height
- Chinese Proverb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 17:49:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Virtual Healey
--- John Loftus <loftusdesign@cox.net> wrote: << Healey folks, I
thought some of you might be interested in the following. I'm
combining two things I like ... Healeys and computer modeling. The
initial results are at <http://www.loftusdesign.net/virtual_healey.htm>
I know that everything is not 100% correct ... (does anyone have a 100
that I can borrow for a few months ;-)) ..but I'm working on it.
cheers, John Loftus >>
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Find, Connect, Date! http://personals.yahoo.ca
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 15:17:33 -0700
Subject: Re: front ride height
One of the PO's put 3/4" thick bar stock between the lower wishbone arms and
spring pan on my BJ7 (as Michael Salter described). The car looks very level
when
view from the side. It's kind of counter intuitive when you look at the spacers
.. you would think it would raise the front end but basically you are lowering
the spring. I can't give you a meaningful measure from tire to wheel arch right
now as the car is on jackstands but will email you the info in a few days.
-John
fawcett1187@attbi.com wrote:
> Is there any way to adjust the front ride height on a
> big Healey? The front end of the car just seems to sit
> too high. I measured the gap between the top of my front
> tires and the wheel arch at about 3 1/2 inches. The
> height at the top of the headlight rings is about 30
> inches from the ground. When I put the front suspension
> together I used a 1 1/2 inch wood spacer to keep the
> upper shock arms off the rubber bumpers on the mounting
> perches. This is the recommended procedure as I recall.
> Is this normal and if not what can be done to adjust
> this.
> Thanks,
> Mark Fawcett
> 59 BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Russ & Natalie Bamsey" <ia549 at worldchat.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 18:15:37 -0400
Subject: Re: shock oil - is this stuff ok to use? ISO: what does this
----- Original Message -----
From: "GM" <altec210@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 11:57 PM
Subject: Re: shock oil - is this stuff ok to use? ISO: what does this mean?
> International Standards Organization, sets viscosity reference scales.
They
> work just like SAE ratings, though the numbers don't necessarily
correspond.
> For instance, ISO 150 is ~equal to SAE 85W/90 or straight 90 weight gear
> oil.
>
> ISO 68 means that if you have a viscosity at 40 degrees celcius test (ASTM
> D445) run on a new lube reference sample of a product, you should obtain a
> result of 68 +/- about 10%. Ditto for ISO 15 except you should obtain a
> result of 15 +/- about 10%.
>
> No, though some power steering systems are designed to use it.
>
> GM
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> > Can someone explain how ISO ratings work? what is the difference
between
> > ISO 68 and ISO 15?
> >
> > Also, isn't power steering fluid the same thing as automatic
transmission
> > fluid?
> >
> > Ryan
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 17:02:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: Virtual Healey
Francois
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 17:45:14 -0400
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
Subject: RE: Virtual Healey
John,
Those results are fantastic, BUT you have too much time on your hands
:-)
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersville.edu>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 20:09:23 -0400
Subject: teaching your son to drive your Healey
I'm having a peak experience. My son told me he wants to use the Healey to
go to the prom. He's now doing circles around our cul de sac learning how
to use the clutch and accelerator at the same time. I'm in here. Every now
and then I hear the screech of tires. He's been instructed in what to do if
everything goes wrong, brake and clutch at the same time.
Why now? He didn't get his driver's license until last week. He's 18. He
didn't have time for it. Imagine that. He didn't want to get his license
until he wanted to take the Healey to the prom. With the prom queen, I
might add.
Now he has two weeks to learn how to drive stick. Not only stick, but
Healey stick. I'm going away for a week.
For now, he's out there with our poodle in the back seat, going around in
circles, luckily for me its a new clutch.
I'm a happy guy. Is this heaven? Wait until I introduce him to the
overdrive.
Bill Moyer, BJ7, Chimera, name of car, not manufacturer
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Robert Barback" <tippytoo at eatel.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 20:52:05 -0500
Subject: O ring on rear axle
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 22:07:13 -0400
Subject: Concours comment: (was Best Days at Tahoe)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: <ZManDino@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 11:08 PM
Subject: Re: Best Days at Tahoe
> When will the "Best 18 Wheeler Car Hauler" Concourse judging be. I
> can't wait to here the outcome for that class. Not to mention all the
> picture space that will be taken up in the club magazines on this topic,
> undoubtedly.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 19:19:00 -0700
Subject: Whew!
... up 2 feet in the air on jackstands!
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 21:43:51 -0700
Subject: Steering column and control head assembly
Kenny
'61 BT-7
Unfortunately, going to Tahoe without my car. :-(
_________________________________________________________________
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 22:09:25 -0700
Subject: Tahoe
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 23:42:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Non-Adjustable Steering Wheels
WilKo@aol.com wrote:
> You can see one of these wheels at:
> http://members.aol.com/wilko/derrington.html
>
> Rick
> San Diego
>
> In a message dated 5/14/02 10:43:56, fawcett1187@attbi.com writes:
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 18:00:50 +0000
Subject: Re: Help for Heartbroken Healey Dude
- Chinese Proverb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 23:49:30 -0700
Subject: Re: teaching your son to drive your Healey
William Moyer wrote:
> Folks,
>
> I'm having a peak experience. My son told me he wants to use the Healey to
> go to the prom. He's now doing circles around our cul de sac learning how
> to use the clutch and accelerator at the same time. I'm in here. Every now
> and then I hear the screech of tires. He's been instructed in what to do if
> everything goes wrong, brake and clutch at the same time.
>
> Why now? He didn't get his driver's license until last week. He's 18. He
> didn't have time for it. Imagine that. He didn't want to get his license
> until he wanted to take the Healey to the prom. With the prom queen, I
> might add.
>
> Now he has two weeks to learn how to drive stick. Not only stick, but
> Healey stick. I'm going away for a week.
>
> For now, he's out there with our poodle in the back seat, going around in
> circles, luckily for me its a new clutch.
>
> I'm a happy guy. Is this heaven? Wait until I introduce him to the
> overdrive.
>
> Bill Moyer, BJ7, Chimera, name of car, not manufacturer
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 08:55:51 +0100
Subject: Air Induction to Radiator
The usual racing suppliers do these. They do look very impressive!
Try:
www.cape-international.com
or
www.bighealey.co.uk
Regards
Paul
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Original message:
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 09:56:20 -0500
From: "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear@GarverInc.com>
Subject: Air Induction to Radiator
Hi All, I'm tapping the collective wisdom of the list looking for a better way
to channel air to the radiator of my BT7 Mk2. The car has many modifications
but I'd like to keep the grille and front shroud original looking, at least
from the outside. I've seen some pretty trick looking aluminum ducting
between the grille and the radiator, but I'm not sure if this is home
fabricated or if it's available for purchase. I do have a pair of flat
aluminum pieces that a nice guy in the Kansas City area made for me, but I
can't figure out how to install them. Anyway, I'd love to hear what other
Healey owners have done to improve air channeling to the radiator.
Jack Brashear
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 04:55:37 -0500
Subject: Door Panels
I've got a door panel upholstry kit that has to pieces of loose material
.. I know it goes on the door.... the question is Where?
I can see that this BJ7 has a gap between the inner and outter panel...
"map pocket" it would make sense that it could go down there to keep maps
in there instead of in the door..... but then I have a gap between the
panels on the forward edge also.... where paint shows between the
panels.... I suppose the material could go there as well....
What's right?
Keith ( and if you know the answer to this... I got a couple of Questions
bout life... Like Just exactly WHERE does Kentucky Fried Chicken get those
little Chicken parts? come on.. you EVER seen a Chicken that small? )
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Dalton, James LCDR" <daltonj at socom.mil>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 07:46:37 -0400
Subject: RE: teaching your son to drive your Healey
-----Original Message-----
From: William Moyer [mailto:William.Moyer@millersville.edu]
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2002 8:09 PM
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net' '
Subject: teaching your son to drive your Healey
Folks,
I'm having a peak experience. My son told me he wants to use the Healey to
go to the prom. He's now doing circles around our cul de sac learning how
to use the clutch and accelerator at the same time. I'm in here. Every now
and then I hear the screech of tires. He's been instructed in what to do if
everything goes wrong, brake and clutch at the same time.
Why now? He didn't get his driver's license until last week. He's 18. He
didn't have time for it. Imagine that. He didn't want to get his license
until he wanted to take the Healey to the prom. With the prom queen, I
might add.
Now he has two weeks to learn how to drive stick. Not only stick, but
Healey stick. I'm going away for a week.
For now, he's out there with our poodle in the back seat, going around in
circles, luckily for me its a new clutch.
I'm a happy guy. Is this heaven? Wait until I introduce him to the
overdrive.
Bill Moyer, BJ7, Chimera, name of car, not manufacturer
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Dean" <dht at erols.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 08:48:37 -0300
Subject: fuel pump
Dean
BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Galvin, Greg" <ggalvin at cynosurelaser.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 08:52:46 -0400
Subject: RE: Help for Heartbroken Healey Dude
Boot lid
Headlight bowels
Radiator
Carburettors
Entire Interior
Rear Wings
Front Shroud
Front and Rear Bumpers
Windscreen
Left Door
Hood (top)
Door sill finishers
All the attaching hardware for above.
This whole experience still makes me sick when I think about it. The Healey
has been sitting in my garage ever since as I don't seem to find the
motivation or the cash to begin this again. My sincerest and heartfelt
condolences to Mr. Tharp.
Greg
HBJ8L/39704
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
<mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
<mailto:[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]> On Behalf Of 62BT7
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2002 1:14 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
<mailto:healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Help for Heartbroken Healey Dude
As we all know,
Once the Healey bug bites you, we
are infected for
life.
And that this infection has caused us to do things we wish
we hadn't.
Like driving over our heads, etc, etc.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 09:04:55 EDT
Subject: Re: O ring on rear axle
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Join us for Springthing 2002. May 16-19 in Corydon, IN. Visit the web site at
<A HREF="http://www.springthing.info";>www.springthing.info</A> for a preview
and registration information.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 09:12:10 EDT
Subject: Re: O ring on rear axle
I'm not sure what model Healey you have but I can relate my experience. I
have an early BN4 and a BJ8. When I tried to install a spare BJ8 O-ring on
the BN4 I had the same problem. Turns out my BN4 required a slightly
different size. (most people assume they are all the same) It's a minor
difference when you compare the two but one works and the other doesn't.
Inan at Healey Surgeons had the proper O-ring for my BN4.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Join us for Springthing 2002. May 16-19 in Corydon, IN. Visit the web site at
<A HREF="http://www.springthing.info";>www.springthing.info</A> for a preview
and registration information.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 09:12:24 EDT
Subject: Re: fuel pump
I can't answer the question regarding what the fuel pump pressure should be.
I do know that when a pump is producing enough pressure ,you will know it if
you open your fuel line at the carbs, You will get a very strong stream of
fuel (have an empty coffee can handy to catch it)HOwever, the fuel pump
should stop clicking when it fills the float bowls. It would indicte you
have a leak in the fuel line somewhere or a bad diaphragm.
Why not install a second fuel pump in parallel that you can control with an
electical switch. If the new one works properly, you probably have a bad one
in there now. I have heard that fuel pump problems are the cause for most
roadside breakdowns.
I f you put in a second pump, you have an additional "security blanket" .
This arrangement also doubles as a theft deterrent.!
Good Luck-Happy Healeying!
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7 (Tahoe bound)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From OldHealeys at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 09:13:30 EDT
Subject: Re: teaching your son to drive your Healey
Welcome to Healey Fatherhood!!
I taught my son to drive my right hand drive 100-M (with overdrive in all 4
gears) when he was 12. When he was 14 my wife let him drive her Honda 5
speed. When he was 15 we let him drive the Mercedes with a 4 speed.... At
15.5 he took "Driver Education" and drove an automatic for the first time.
"Boring" was the word he used to describe it.
For his 16th birthday I gave him a 100 that had a good body, but the pan was
off when I bought it and there was no guarantee on the engine... I told my
son that the engine needed to be checked before he drove the car..... He,
with the wisdom of 16, put the pan on, added oil, and took his mother for a
ride... almost all the way around the block.... before a rod let go and mad a
big noise and hole in the block!
Bill Emerson
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From <caudle1 at charter.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 09:46:07 -0400
Subject: Fw: teaching your son to drive your Healey
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "patrick harris" <rotaryman at worldnet.att.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 07:03:17 -0700
Subject: restoration nightmares and healey heartbreak
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 09:11:58 -0500
Subject: Heartbroken Healey Dude
When I took my car to have the engine rebuilt I got a signed receipt from the
mechanic for the car, included in the receipt was the BN7/*** registration
number and engine number. He had to take the engine tag off to clean the
engine block, but he gave it back to me when I picked up the car.
I believe that there should be a standardized form with work proposed checked
off by the restorer, an approximate cost with a proviso that costs exceeding
10% of estimated approximate costs would be discussed with owner before work is
performed, etcetera.
It might also pay to have a complete inventory of the automobile, such as wire
wheels, fuel pump, radiator, shocks, etcetera.
If I were going to trust my car to a restorer I think I would get an engraving
pencil and engrave the registration number on all removable parts, and perhaps
my social security number as well.
I realize that these methods will not stop a crook. Nothing stops a crook
until the cell doors slam. However if we all ban together and put our
collective thoughts to practice, maybe we can slow them down some. Any
comments?
Don
BN7
(BTW my BN7 was stolen in 1975 and I had no insurance. I was heartbroken from
August until October when the car was found in Las Vegas. There was an
unsuccesful attempt by someone to try to get me to mail them the "pink slip"
(title to those not from California). The theives were freed by the Las Vegas
Police, and I believe they returned for a second try. Only they found that I
had chained the four wheels to the stanchion in my carport. So they took the
top) Sorry for being long winded. Don
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 10:11:10 -0400
Subject: Re: fuel pump
I seem to recall from an earlier discussion that the click Dean describes is
normal for the box pumps. Don't know why. The ones for the later BJ8s only
click until the float bowls are full as Larry said. These are exactly the
same behaviors I have on my BJ8 and BN7.
Keith Pennell
> Dean,
>
> I can't answer the question regarding what the fuel pump pressure should
be.
> I do know that when a pump is producing enough pressure ,you will know it
if
> you open your fuel line at the carbs, You will get a very strong stream of
> fuel (have an empty coffee can handy to catch it)HOwever, the fuel pump
> should stop clicking when it fills the float bowls. It would indicte you
> have a leak in the fuel line somewhere or a bad diaphragm.
>
> Why not install a second fuel pump in parallel that you can control with
an
> electical switch. If the new one works properly, you probably have a bad
one
> in there now. I have heard that fuel pump problems are the cause for most
> roadside breakdowns.
> I f you put in a second pump, you have an additional "security blanket"
.
> This arrangement also doubles as a theft deterrent.!
>
> Good Luck-Happy Healeying!
>
> Larry Wysocki
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 09:08:11 -0500
Subject: Re: teaching your son to drive your Healey
But I taught them both to drive in Sprites... my oldest was 14 when I gave
him his first driving lesson at the memorial for the Battle of the Bulge in
Baston Belgium.
we rebuilt this Junk Box Sprite In Germany and did an 11 country tour in
three days.... then I restored it when we got back here and He totaled it
into the back of a Mercedes in high school.... Who cares... it was just a
car...and he was fine... I've still got it and might one day bring it back
from the dead.... just because of the sentimental value of the car to me
personally.... Stuff like that is what Makes our lives worth living....
Keith
----------
> From: OldHealeys@aol.com
> To: William.Moyer@millersville.edu; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: teaching your son to drive your Healey
> Date: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 8:13 AM
>
> Bill,
>
> Welcome to Healey Fatherhood!!
>
> I taught my son to drive my right hand drive 100-M (with overdrive in all
4
> gears) when he was 12. When he was 14 my wife let him drive her Honda 5
> speed. When he was 15 we let him drive the Mercedes with a 4 speed....
At
> 15.5 he took "Driver Education" and drove an automatic for the first
time.
> "Boring" was the word he used to describe it.
>
> For his 16th birthday I gave him a 100 that had a good body, but the pan
was
> off when I bought it and there was no guarantee on the engine... I told
my
> son that the engine needed to be checked before he drove the car.....
He,
> with the wisdom of 16, put the pan on, added oil, and took his mother for
a
> ride... almost all the way around the block.... before a rod let go and
mad a
> big noise and hole in the block!
>
> Bill Emerson
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 10:54:16 EDT
Subject: Re: Heartbroken Healey Dude
You were lucky with your engine rebuild. He was a good mechanic but a poor
businessman. About a year after your engine rebuild I had him install a
transmission on my then girlfriends MGB. A one week promise turned into two
months. Basically when he pulled the engine some crud dislodged in the carbs
and that is why it would not run. I had to figure that one out after getting
lot's of run-around from the mechanic and enduring a bitching girlfriend.
One local Healey owner took his sound but worn BT7 for a "restoration" with a
quote of $12,000. $18,000 later the car was still not assembled, not even in
paint. I was asked to help mediate this problem and was shocked at what I
saw. It was hopeless.
The owner paid the mechanic without inspecting the car. The billing for parts
was handwritten. make sure you see invoices and they really exist. My advice
is if you have a car in a shop visit it weekly and inspect the progress.
Everybody ended up in a lawsuit and the restorer filed bankruptcy (He wasn't
even incorporated). The Healey owner had about $25,000 invested and sold out
for $6500.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Join us for Springthing 2002. May 16-19 in Corydon, IN. Visit the web site at
<A HREF="http://www.springthing.info";>www.springthing.info</A> for a preview
and registration information.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From rfrisby <rfrisby at micron.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 09:03:25 -0600
Subject: cruise controls & fuel pumps
The aftermarket cruise controls I've seen actually use two magnets
on the driveshaft, opposite each other. So there's no balance problem. My
impression is that most of these modern aftermarket cruise control units are
quite satisfactory, IF they are installed right. I would imagine that the
hardest part on a Healey (other than maybe the polarity issue) would be
connecting the throttle actuator.
It's my impression that it is perfectly normal for the pump to click
occasionally (maybe once every few seconds) even when there's no forward
flow of fuel. My guess is that this is due to backflow through the pump.
The pump is probably better at flowing fuel than it is at holding pressure.
Bob Frisby
'62 BT7 tricarb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 01:13:54 +1000
Subject: Re: front ride height
Mike is dead right. Can I just add that the spring determines the ride
height - not the procedure used when you assembled it. The procedure you
used is correct - but has no bearing on the ride height. The purpose of the
procedure is to ensure that you don't destroy the bushes you have just
fitted - especially the top trunion bushes.
Your options are:
1. spacers to lower the spring pan - i.e. lower the spring position (and
you'll need corresponding longer bolts to ) - as Mike said.
2. different ride height front springs - ie usually made of heavier wire
with a shorter length.
3 you can raise the ride height by putting 'pads' (eg made of urethane, in
a circle like the spring ends) on top of, and below the springs (I know
thats not relavent here - but it may help someone else reading this - eg.
you can use 2 x 1/4 in pads & get 1/2 and inch of height 'back' if you
miscalculated when you ordered new lowered springs)
If you opt for 1. - you also need to raise the height of the bump stop in
the centre of the spring pan, by the same amount as the lowering blocks you
fit. If you don't - the car will effectively have no bump stops (as you have
moved them away from their effective point when you lowered the spring
pan) - and potentially, you will allow the wheel to go up enough to hit the
bodywork. You also need to understand that lowering the car in this manner -
without increasing spring stiffness - means the car will have the 'normal'
amount of suspension travel - ie it will be able to move up & down the same
amount as now - except that you have just reduced the area that it can move
in..... so don't lower it very far or your car will bounce from bump stop to
bump stop. I wouldn't use spacers of more than 1/2 inch with standard front
springs.
With either method of lowering - you will also reduce your ground clearance.
Which isn't really a major issue (after all - if you are lowering the car -
isn't that he purpose?) - as long as you drive with this in mind, and stay
on 'good' roads. An accurate place to measure is from the 'corners' of the
box section underneath the radiator where it meets the chassis rail, at the
bottom of chassis, to the ground. Measuring from bodywork won't give you a
comparable yardstick between cars - as the radius of the guards is all
different, tyre profiles are different etc.
For what its worth, my BJ8 measurement top of tyre to edge of wheelarch = 1
5/8 inch.(with 60 series tyres) - and I have 550lb springs.
If you start mucking about with springs & ride height - also make sure you
drive the car around & give it a few days to 'settle' before you rush in &
measure & change things again - especially if you fit new springs. The
springs tend to 'settle' up to 1/2 an inch from when first fitted & the car
is let down onto the ground, and when you measure it again a week later.
Hope this helps
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <fawcett1187@attbi.com>; "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 7:40 AM
Subject: RE: front ride height
> Hi Mark,
>
> Short of changing the front springs the only way I know of to change the
> ride height is to insert some spacers between the spring pan and the
> lower wishbone arms.
> This is quite easy to do and results in the car being lowered about
> twice the height of the spacers fitted.
>
> Mike Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of fawcett1187@attbi.com
> Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2002 2:58 PM
> To: Healey List
> Subject: front ride height
>
> Is there any way to adjust the front ride height on a
> big Healey? The front end of the car just seems to sit
> too high. I measured the gap between the top of my front
> tires and the wheel arch at about 3 1/2 inches. The
> height at the top of the headlight rings is about 30
> inches from the ground. When I put the front suspension
> together I used a 1 1/2 inch wood spacer to keep the
> upper shock arms off the rubber bumpers on the mounting
> perches. This is the recommended procedure as I recall.
> Is this normal and if not what can be done to adjust
> this.
> Thanks,
> Mark Fawcett
> 59 BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 08:10:26 -0700
Subject: Re: Help for Heartbroken Healey Dude / Insurance
Any Healey Car Insurance Dudes out here with input ??
Kirk
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Rader" <rader@interworld.net>
To: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2002 11:36 PM
Subject: Re: Help for Heartbroken Healey Dude
> Kirk:
> was the car insured?
> Ron R
>
> 62 BT7 wrote:
>
> > As we all know,
> > Once the Healey bug bites you, we are infected
for
> > life.
> > And that this infection has caused us to do things we wish we hadn't.
> >
> > Like driving over our heads, etc, etc.
> >
> > This last weekend I was contacted by a (30+ year infected) Healey Dude
> > who related to me the following heartbreaking story,
> >
> > Back in 1968, he purchased his first car, (1965 BJ-8) drove it for a few
> > years
> > then placed it in storage. Approximately four years ago he decided to
> > restore
> > the car as it was all original and everything was there from new.
> >
> > He did his homework well (he thought) by researching all the Healey
> > restorers
> > he could locate and asking other Healey owners for recommendations.
> >
> > He decided on Healey Masters to do the restoration.
> >
> > (As most of us know by now, Healey Masters is belly-up and in the wind.)
> >
> > The restoration was coming along to his satisfaction.
> >
> > Feeling secure, (error) he fronted lot's money $00,000.00.
> >
> > Making a long sad story short, he and approximately 18 to 20 other
Healey
> > owners are in the same shape.
> >
> > All Healey related items and cars were moved out of the building and
placed
> > in
> > unprotected piles and placed in and upon the cars, frames, etc, as best
as
> > could
> > be determined what belonged with what..
> >
> > The state of completion of his car was;
> >
> > Rolling chassis, wiring, hard lines, etc, pimered, ready for paint.
> > Frame powdercoated Healey blue.
> > Approximately 75% complete.
> >
> > The last time he saw the car prior to the problems at Healey Masters,
all
> > the loose
> > parts and sheetmetal were either on or in the car in boxes.
> >
> > Upon being informed of problems at Healey Masters he went to the
location
> > to ascertain
> > what if any problems he may have.
> >
> > He found the car in a outside shed parked infront of another Healey.
> >
> > Not being able, at the time, to remove the car he decided to return for
the
> > recovery.
> >
> > Upon his return, he found the following items missing;
> >
> > Transmission / Overdrive #1554
> > Boot lid, with four luggage rack mounting holes
> > All gauges
> > Entire dash
> > Heater box
> > Headlight bowels
> > Fuel tank
> > Radiator
> > Windscreen
> > Windwings
> > Door glass registers
> > Door sill finishers
> > Etc.
> > Also, at the time of his return, the Healey he was parked infront of had
> > been removed.
> >
> > The owner is not a lister and asked me to notice the list for him.
> >
> > Owner;
> >
> > Nelson Tharp
> > (323) 650-6670
> > (818) 434-9200
> >
> > If the person / persons have these items in error, please contact
Nelson.
> > If the person / persons have these items as a lapse in judgment, contact
> > Nelson. (No Questions Asked).
> >
> > (Think for a moment, If the rolls were reversed ?????)
> >
> > Kirk Kvam
> > 62BT7 Tri-Carb
> > 59/60 BN7 Nasty Boy
> > (Infected since July 1961.)
> >
> > ps, If any listers have spares of the above items, and can part with
them at
> > a reasonable price, you might think
> > about contacting Nelson. This guy is completely devastated.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John and Felicia Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 11:24:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Heartbroken Healey Dude
Although I know that there are many reputable shops that do restoration work,
I have rarely found anyone (in my local club or elsewhere) who had a total
restoration done by a shop that was completely satisfied with the experience.
Because money is an issue for most of us until now the worst stories I had
heard were about doubling (or worse) of the original estimate once the car was
apart, threats of legal action from both sides (despite detailed contracts
spelling out the work to be performed and the costs) and the always helpful
(and costly) moving from shop to shop.
The main reason I am doing my restoration as much as possible myself (besides
the fact that I enjoy it) is to avoid these seemingly inevitable occurences.
The notion of someone running off with the car (or large parts of it)
howerver, never even entered my mind. It's a cold world out there.
John
62BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From BlkBT7 at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 11:27:32 -0400
Subject: Re: teaching your son to drive your Healey
Today I will be teaching my 19 year old step-granddaughter to
drive the BT7! Tomorrow she and I head off to SpringThing
with the Bluegrass Club.
Bob
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 15:27:32 +0000
Subject: Re: front ride height
- Chinese Proverb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 11:28:21 EDT
Subject: Re: teaching your son to drive your Healey
To take the car over I asked a friends wife who had never driven a Healey.
They have a BT7 but with a new house and baby the car has been sitting
awaiting repairs while more important financial matters were taken care of.
She arrived beaming and looked at her husband and said "order the parts, I
want one of these."
Coker drove the car a bit on tour and broke my shift knob. Quite an honor
considering who it was. Paulette Lownsdale used it for the rally and remarked
that it was the coolest Healey she had ever ridden in. I'm sure Gary ended up
super insulating her car after that.
Coming home I tossed the keys at seventeen year old Ben Moore and said drive.
He was elated and on the ride home I found myself forgetting he was behind me
and I was doing eighty. Looked in the rear view mirror and he was right on my
tail with a big grin. He is now instrumental in the Future Fifty Movement.
Share your Healeys with others, it's the best promotion for the marque.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Join us for Springthing 2002. May 16-19 in Corydon, IN. Visit the web site at
<A HREF="http://www.springthing.info";>www.springthing.info</A> for a preview
and registration information.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 08:35:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Tahoe
1. Already over the top attendance. Biggest Healey gathering in history
2. Overwhelmed hotels and little or no addl identifiable lodging
3. Overwhelmed judges for both car shows
4. Logistical nightmare with 560 Healeys and 1,200 enthusiasts all trying to
move around tiny State Line Nevada all at the same time
5. Cutoff date was anounced way in advance
6. Not enough volunteers to man the huge and numerous events
7. Secure parking for addl Healeys problematic
8. Commitments need to be made well in advance to hotels for security, food
and beverage service
9. The Committee needs time to digest the enormity of coordinating all these
folks and their cars and making sure everone has a good time
10. Deadline was announced numerous times - oops, I already said that!
Coop ('66 BJ8) See you in Tahoe!
> I have two friends that are shipping the cars to Tahoe but have not yet
registered.
> How can we do this?
> why close the registration almost two months before the event?
> Ron Rader
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 08:35:07 -0700
Subject: Re: front ride height
Perhaps Moss could keep its present wrong sized bump stops for the
lowering crowd and make us some of the right dimensions, too??
-Roland
On Thu, 16 May 2002 01:13:54 +1000, "Chris Dimmock"
<cd3000@bigpond.net.au> wrote:
:: If you opt for 1. - you also need to raise the height of the bump stop in
:: the centre of the spring pan, by the same amount as the lowering blocks you
:: fit. If you don't - the car will effectively have no bump stops (as you have
:: moved them away from their effective point when you lowered the spring
:: pan) - and potentially, you will allow the wheel to go up enough to hit the
:: bodywork. You also need to understand that lowering the car in this manner -
:: without increasing spring stiffness - means the car will have the 'normal'
:: amount of suspension travel - ie it will be able to move up & down the same
:: amount as now - except that you have just reduced the area that it can move
:: in..... so don't lower it very far or your car will bounce from bump stop to
:: bump stop. I wouldn't use spacers of more than 1/2 inch with standard front
:: springs.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 11:46:30 EDT
Subject: Re: teaching your son to drive your Healey
Bob,
Be sure to tell her to watch out for those lakes!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Join us for Springthing 2002. May 16-19 in Corydon, IN. Visit the web site at
<A HREF="http://www.springthing.info";>www.springthing.info</A> for a preview
and registration information.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 11:45:56 -0400
Subject: Re: fuel pump
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean" <dht@erols.com>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 7:48 AM
Subject: fuel pump
> I'm just finishing up a long restoration. When I turn the key on I can
hear
> the fuel pump clicking fast then slow down to a slow click something like
a
> clock ticking. but it never stops clicking even with the motor not
running. I
> took the hose off from the outlet from the pump and plugged it and no
change .
> So I did the same for the inlet and no change. My question is. Is the fuel
> pump going bad or is this normal? I thought it should cut off after the
> pressure built up. Could it be that it doesn't build up enough pressure?
What
> should the pressure be?
>
> Dean
> BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 12:14:19 EDT
Subject: Re: Whew!
<< The BJ8 just rode through yesterday's 5.2 Richter earthquake ...
... up 2 feet in the air on jackstands! >>
God must smile down on car nuts -- My MGA racecar was up on jack stands as
well, just after I had re-installed the engine!
Gary Anderson
Los Altos, CA
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 12:41:46 EDT
Subject: Insuring the next generation
However, those who raised the question of insurance make an important point.
When I've researched classic car coverage from e.g. Hagerty, J.C. Taylor,
American Classic Car, etc. the executives have always made a point that
insured drivers must be over 25 (Hagerty was the only one that made an
exception, for the younger person who had built the car him or herself.).
I'm not at all an expert, but if they were my children and it was my car, I
would probably do two things -- first, I'd make sure that my policy on my
regular cars (Allstate, State Farm or whatever) also gave my children
personal liability and medical coverage when they were driving any other
cars, including my hobby cars. (After all, what happens if the kid, heaven
forbid, takes the car out without your permission and his girl friend in the
passenger seat gets hurt?)
Second, I'd probably discuss the question with my classic car insurer, but be
prepared to be told that if the kid gets blind-sided in the high school
parking lot after the prom, that the classic car company wouldn't pay on its
agreed-value policy.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ZManDino at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 12:49:55 EDT
Subject: RE: Tahoe
Alex. Zanini
2002 Open Roads Committee Member
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 16:59:44 +0000
Subject: Re: teaching your son to drive your Healey
- Chinese Proverb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Joel Seguine <jseguine at umich.edu>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 13:47:32 -0400
Subject: Bearing Clearance
I'm rebuilding a BJ8 engine in a class at a local community college,
which has a great Auto Restoration program, and have gotten to the
assembly stage. The bearing clearances in the shop manual are listed as
"running clearance." For the mains (if memory serves...I don't have the
bk in front of me) it's .0013-.0028. Running clearance seems to imply
what the clearance should be when the bearings are heated up. I'm
getting about.004 checking them cold with plasti-guage. Why don't the
specs give cold clearance instead? Am I missing something here?
--
Joel Seguine
Manager, Administrative News
News and Information Services
412 Maynard Street
University of Michigan
Ann Arbor, MI 48109-1340
(734)936-6396
Fax (734)764-7084
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Grumpyingb" <grumpyingb at surewest.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 10:46:30 -0700
Subject: Having a family hobby
Jerry
BN4
TR3A
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 10:56:49 -0700
Subject: Re: teaching your son to drive your Healey
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "patrick harris" <rotaryman at worldnet.att.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 10:58:32 -0700
Subject: frame alignment
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 14:38:57 -0400
Subject: Thanks...and more questions
New questions. Victoria British seems to sell a repro replacement for the
horn push button
on the adjustable steering. At leas they list it as for sale. That's the
smaller button I believe. Has anyone bought one of these, and what was the
quality?
Also...does anyone know where I can buy new, correct springs for the
centrifical advance mechanism for
a BJ8 distributor? How about damper springs for the HD8 carbs?
BTW, I just received a new mild steel BJ7 and earlier exhaust from Victoria
British. I'm going to put the earlier
exhaust on my BJ8. The quality seems to be really nice. I know, I
know....sorry purists. I'll let you all know how it comes out.
Thanks all,
Dave Masucci
BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 11:41:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Door Panels
I don't think the exposed metal between panels gets any vinyl material. On my
BJ7 this area is painted black to match the panels. The vinyl pieces may be for
recovering the padded top strip that runs along the window opening. I remember
cutting some new neoprene type foam and wrapping those top strips when I redid
mine. I also had enough material to recover the dash top. I'm no concours expert
so maybe someone else can confirm/correct or maybe call the supplier. Sometimes
they provide clues ... sometimes.
Maybe you should ask these guys about the LCP's:
http://www.kentuckyfriedchicken.com/about/facts.htm
Cheers,
John
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 18:47:06 +0000
Subject: Re: Having a family hobby
- Chinese Proverb
> All this talk about teaching your kids to drive reminds me why we got
> interested in old cars. Both my wife and I worked on cars when we were
> teenagers and wanted to have our daughters experience the same learning
> experience. When they got close to ages 14 and 16 we bought our first
> restoration, a TR3A. They were involved in most of the restoration and
> learned a lot about cars. They both call the TR3A the boy magnet and the
> younger one loves to drive it. They both appreciate the hobby and particepate
> in club events and shows. They were not as involved with the Healey
> restoration but still like that car too. I think these projects kept us close
> to the kids through those teenage years. We have pictures of them tearing
> apart the engine and fighting over who got to pull the next part.
>
> Jerry
> BN4
> TR3A
>
> ///
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Robert J. Denton/Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 14:58:19 -0700
Subject: Re: Having a family hobby
Bob
eyera3@attbi.com wrote:
> Right on!
> If we don't get the younger generation involved who's
> going to buyor take care of these cars? AS state
> previously, my young sons are already positioning for
> the right o inherit the Healey. My 10 year old offered
> to do anything he could to help work on my car, the
> younger one always grabs a spanner and heads over to
> lend a hand. It is a family hobby or should be.
> --
> Ira Erbs
> Digs-4 Solutions
> For training,network,PC and
> Macintosh
> "Learning without thinking is
> labor lost; thinking
> without learning is dangerous."
>
> - Chinese Proverb
> > All this talk about teaching your kids to drive reminds me why we got
> > interested in old cars. Both my wife and I worked on cars when we were
> > teenagers and wanted to have our daughters experience the same learning
> > experience. When they got close to ages 14 and 16 we bought our first
> > restoration, a TR3A. They were involved in most of the restoration and
> > learned a lot about cars. They both call the TR3A the boy magnet and the
> > younger one loves to drive it. They both appreciate the hobby and
>particepate
> > in club events and shows. They were not as involved with the Healey
> > restoration but still like that car too. I think these projects kept us
>close
> > to the kids through those teenage years. We have pictures of them tearing
> > apart the engine and fighting over who got to pull the next part.
> >
> > Jerry
> > BN4
> > TR3A
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 15:01:14 -0400
Subject: Re: teaching your son to drive your Healey
Dave
BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeygal at cs.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 15:14:55 EDT
Subject: Re: Heartbroken Healey Dude
In the 80's, I went to a mechanic in the San Fernando Valley area of L.A.
several times for a transmission rebuild, front end rebuild and complete new
wiring harnesses. Even though I always had a feeling something was wrong
even though this individual was well known in the Healey club, held tech
sessions for club members, and was visited by Donald himself when he was in
town, I didn't know where else to go - wasn't active in a club and didn't
have the benefit of a list as we do today. I remember a different windscreen
accessory part coming back one time (didn't request any work be done on any
of them), and weird spots of discoloration on the paint another time. The
last time I picked the car up from him, it seemed like he just picked a
number out of the air for the bill.
Last year, after becoming active in local clubs, I heard from two different
sources that this person had indeed "taken off," no one in the club knew of
his whereabouts and that he did do good work when he was sober.
I doubt that there is a 100% foolproof way to make sure nothing as sad as the
current situation happens unless you are capable and willing to do all the
work yourself, but I guess word of mouth, the list, and keeping in constant
contact with whomever is doing the work can all help.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 12:21:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: teaching your son to drive your Healey
http://athene.as.arizona.edu/~fwildi/digpix/2001.05.28/thibault_huile_le_vilbrequin01.jpg
They got to look at the valves on the engine runnig wihtout cover
last Saturday. They were still talking about it to my wife 3 days
later.
LBC's or not, teaching car mechanics to kids is very rewarding. Plus,
you do not dare cursing when shit happens...
Francois
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From XK120FHCSE at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 15:29:00 EDT
Subject: Healey/Insurance Question (Heartbroken Dude...)
Your friend has at least two possible avenues. First and easiest, if he had
specific insurance on the car then he should call the insurance company and
submit a theft claim. He should also file a theft report with the police if
he has not already done so, because the insurance adjuster will want to see
that.
If the insurance company says this is a case of "mysterious disappearance"
and tries to deny the claim, or any garbage like that, he should persist.
There's no "mystery," the stuff was obviously stolen. It might be a mystery
as to where it is now, but there's no mystery as to the cause of loss.
Someone stole his stuff.
If the insurance company says he should go against the restorer and therefore
has no claim, he should insist that he does have a legitimate claim and that
the insurance company pay him for his loss. After paying him, the insurance
company is then subrogated to his [probably worthless] rights of recovery
against the restorer. The insurance company can try to recoup what they paid
your friend, but it won't matter to him whether they succeed or not because
he will have been paid. Their job is to pay him his claim.
I'm going to assume your friend did not have insurance on the car, since most
insurers want pics of the car and immediately decline "in process of
restoration" cars as bad risks (which is arguable but not the point).
That leaves possibility number two. Your friend's Homeowners policy excludes
"motor vehicles." Guess what. There was no "motor" in this vehicle. In fact
it wasn't a vehicle at all, it was a bunch of Austin Healey parts that had
the potential to become a motor vehicle at some future point. His parts are
therefore "personal property" under his Homeowners policy. His Homeowners
policy should cover personal property when away from his premises (home).
This is subject to his deductible, and he'll have to talk to a person who
normally adjusts homeowners claims so they'll be totally clueless about what
a bunch of Healey parts are worth. They'll probably start with "that's not
covered" and he'll have to say "tell me where the policy says that." He will
also need to substantiate the value of the parts.
Now, there is a third option which might be the insurance carried by the guy
who took off. There may be some way to determine who insured him, even though
he seems to have disappeared. That would require researching whether he was
"licensed" in any way, and whether the licensing authorities required
evidence of insurance as part of the licensing process. If there was no
insurance, or there's no way to tell, the lesson here is an IMPORTANT one.
Nobody should ever drop off a car at a shop without asking the shop to
provide a Certificate Of Insurance to prove that they have the appropriate
insurance coverage. If you don't understand the Certificate, the name of the
shop's insurance agent will be on the Cert so call them and ask, "what the
heck does this gibberish really say; is my car covered when this shop has it
in their care, custody and control, or not??" If the shop won't provide a
Cert, you're on your own and you need to think about whether you're going to
leave the car with them, at your risk, or not.
Incidentally, those "disclaimers" that say a shop is not liable for loss or
damage to your car? Ignore them. Depending on the state (differs by state and
degree of negligence) professionals cannot waive away their negligence and
you may have rights to recover against them for their negligence, whether you
signed a waiver (or they have a sign posted) or not.
Sorry about the long message! Nuttin's easy! But since he no longer has a
"project car" to devote his time to, he can make chasing the insurance
company his new hobby. The key is to not give up, and always ask "where does
the policy say that." If the policy doesn't say "not covered" then it
probably is. The claim adjuster can't reform a legal contract based on
his/her mood that day.
Good luck!
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 14:29:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Bearing Clearance
Don't remember but I think Geoff wrote the piece... basically what it said
was this... the Oil pressure bypass is set with a springs pressure and it
remains constant through out it's life... so the Oil pump which wears along
with the bearings can be an indicator of an engines current state of
repair.... the Exact measurement was the RPM that the engine hit the bypass
spring or reached maximum oil pressure....
Let me give an example.... if the Bearings are tight as they would be in a
newer engine.... then the oil has more resistance to flow.... consequently
the actual flow of oil in and around a bearing would be minimal.... meaning
the Oil pump would hit a higher pressure earlier in the RPM range.... like
say 2000 rpm it would peak and remain there.... But as an engine wears....
the clearances become larger and oil flows more freely around the bearings
and seeps out faster... requiring more OIL Volume.... so the Pump has to
work harder and given that it's worn a like amount it's going to take more
RPM before it reaches it's bypass spring.... so if you pay strict attention
to the point at which the Peak OIL pressure on the gage in relationship to
the RPM.... you can see when or how the engine is actually doing... That
and a leak down test can make you feel really comfortable about your engine
when it's done...
My problem with the Bearings clearances as stated is .004 is a bit wider
then I would like from a newer engine... I just think the oil would flow
out a bit to freely... and the RPM would have to be a bit higher then I
would like when it hits its bypass spring..... To follow this to it's inth
conclusion is to understand that if the Oil isn't at Peak pressure when
your tooling down the road.... guess what's going to happen to the
motor.... Yep your going to need fast acting air shocks to prevent running
over that crankshaft.... cuz.... sooner or later... it's coming out... (
and I'm liking sooner rather then later )
Keith ( why no I don't have a clue... but if you find one send it on....
I'd love to see it and the 8X10 photo glossy of the BIG picture.... you
know the dynamic visual representation of the situation as seen from
above..... )
----------
> From: Joel Seguine <jseguine@umich.edu>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Bearing Clearance
> Date: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 12:47 PM
>
> I have a question.
>
> I'm rebuilding a BJ8 engine in a class at a local community college,
> which has a great Auto Restoration program, and have gotten to the
> assembly stage. The bearing clearances in the shop manual are listed as
> "running clearance." For the mains (if memory serves...I don't have the
> bk in front of me) it's .0013-.0028. Running clearance seems to imply
> what the clearance should be when the bearings are heated up. I'm
> getting about.004 checking them cold with plasti-guage. Why don't the
> specs give cold clearance instead? Am I missing something here?
> --
> Joel Seguine
> Manager, Administrative News
> News and Information Services
> 412 Maynard Street
> University of Michigan
> Ann Arbor, MI 48109-1340
> (734)936-6396
> Fax (734)764-7084
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From BlkBT7 at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 16:00:06 -0400
Subject: Horizon room at Tahoe
When I attempted to cancel the reservation today, I was told
that the room would not go to someone on a Open Roads
waiting list. But I can change the name on the reservation
instead of canceling.
Does anyone want/need a room at the Horizon? Check-in is for
June 23rd. Let me know off list if you are interested.
Bob Brown
blkbt7@aol.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Fisher & Elizabeth Jones <fisher at hctc.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 15:37:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Heartbroken Healey Dude
First of all, let me say that I fully empathise with everyone who
loses, especially as the direct result of this kind of chicanery. It is
very bad for all involved, or associated by reason of our
interests. However, there is also the other side of the coin to be considered.
We have finally just about retired (after trying to achieve this
for the last 8 years or so) from the restoration and maintenance of LBCs,
after about 35 years in the business. Three years ago we did some work for
a lawyer in San Antonio. We did the work that he asked for, and
some. When presented with his bill he cited shortage of funds and asked to
make two payments, over a two week period. Well, we'd known this person
for some time, and agreed, just to help him out. He took the car the very
next day and damaged his radiator/fan by running over road debris. At
first he tried to say that we had done/not done something to cause his loss
of coolant, but later recanted that. He asked that we travel a round trip
of 200 miles+ to collect his stranded car. We did, that very day. We
provided a loaner fan and radiator and presented a new bill, not including
any charges for our collection of this vehicle, or our time collecting it.
He then began to make charges related to the original work, all of
which were unfounded. Being a lawyer himself, he threatened to sue. We
said, go ahead, and sought our own legal advice.
The car in question is still on our property, my husband won't
file on it, preferring to resolve the situation rather than litigate. We
even offered a settlement figure, just to be done with the whole sorry
scenario.
To make matters worse, the lawyer died last year, and his widow
won't settle either.
We are out the first bill, the second bill, and the collection
charges.
Just another aspect to be considered.
Elizabeth Jones
Comfort, TX.
(Home of the Spridgetstock)
At 02:14 PM 5/15/02, Healeygal@cs.com wrote:
>I suppose if a mechanic/restorer is in dire straits or is of a mind set to be
>a crook, no matter his talent, skills and reputation, he's going to be a
>crook. It was so sad to hear of what happened to a fellow Healey owners and
>his car. Multiply that times the number of customers abandoned, and there
>are a lot of sad stories out there. My sympathies to all.
>
>In the 80's, I went to a mechanic in the San Fernando Valley area of L.A.
>several times for a transmission rebuild, front end rebuild and complete new
>wiring harnesses. Even though I always had a feeling something was wrong
>even though this individual was well known in the Healey club, held tech
>sessions for club members, and was visited by Donald himself when he was in
>town, I didn't know where else to go - wasn't active in a club and didn't
>have the benefit of a list as we do today. I remember a different windscreen
>accessory part coming back one time (didn't request any work be done on any
>of them), and weird spots of discoloration on the paint another time. The
>last time I picked the car up from him, it seemed like he just picked a
>number out of the air for the bill.
>
>Last year, after becoming active in local clubs, I heard from two different
>sources that this person had indeed "taken off," no one in the club knew of
>his whereabouts and that he did do good work when he was sober.
>
>I doubt that there is a 100% foolproof way to make sure nothing as sad as the
>current situation happens unless you are capable and willing to do all the
>work yourself, but I guess word of mouth, the list, and keeping in constant
>contact with whomever is doing the work can all help.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From dwflagg at juno.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 16:44:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Fw: Re: Heartbroken Healey Dude
Happy Healeying,
Doug
> My sincerest condolences to anyone who has ever suffered such a
> loss.
>
> Although I know that there are many reputable shops that do
> restoration work,
> I have rarely found anyone (in my local club or elsewhere) who had a
> total
> restoration done by a shop that was completely satisfied with the
> experience.
> Because money is an issue for most of us until now the worst stories
> I had
> heard were about doubling (or worse) of the original estimate once
> the car was
> apart, threats of legal action from both sides (despite detailed
> contracts
> spelling out the work to be performed and the costs) and the always
> helpful
> (and costly) moving from shop to shop.
>
> The main reason I am doing my restoration as much as possible myself
> (besides
> the fact that I enjoy it) is to avoid these seemingly inevitable
> occurences.
> The notion of someone running off with the car (or large parts of
> it)
> howerver, never even entered my mind. It's a cold world out there.
>
> John
> 62BT7
>
>
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 21:07:24 +0000
Subject: tahoe camping
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 17:28:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Non-Adjustable Steering Wheels
<< this is without a doubt the best looking Healey steering wheel made.
Yes, i know it is not concours.
Ron R
wishin' I had one. >>
Actually, it is acceptable in concours without deduction as a good
reproduction of a period accessory.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 17:35:57 EDT
Subject: Re: restoration nightmares and healey heartbreak
<< Be present
when the restorer takes the car apart and document everything. Take all the
items not needed by restorer and keep them yourself. >>
Having the experience of three restorations -- one done "turn-key," one
pulled piece by piece out of the garage of another guy who was a good
mechanic but couldn't run a business, and one done from my garage -- I would
strongly recommend to anyone who can spare the space, that you do all the
"taking apart" yourself and keep the parts in your own garage -- especially
the rarer bits. Taking apart a car is the easy part. It's reasonably easy to
get an engine and transmission to a rebuilder and get a body on minimal
chassis parts to a body shop, leaving everything else under your own care.
Most of what's left is going to require cleaning and why pay $50 an hour to a
garage to clean dirt and grease off parts. Then, with the help of someone in
your club who actually knows what they're doing, you can put it all back
together again -- the really fun, educational part anyhow.
just my 2 pence
Cheers
gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From type79 at ix.netcom.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 17:39:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey/Insurance Question (Heartbroken Dude...)
As an insurance agent, this is certainly an interesting read.
I doubt this car would be insured, but if it was, theft coverage should
be applicable subject to any limitations and exclusions in the policy.
The explanation of "mysterious disappearance" is interesting, but this
is not "mysterious disappearance", it is "theft from a known place".
I can't speak for policies written in all states, but at least in CT and
NY, coverage under a homeowners policy limits coverage for motor vehicle
parts to $500.00.
There could be recourse against the repairer if he carried insurance and
if he carried Garagekeepers Coverage which is an optional coverage and
one not carried by all dealers or repairers. The repairer's negligence
could probably be easily proven so even if the shop only carried
Garagekeepers Legal Liability rather than the more comprehensive
Garagekeepers Direct Primary coverage, there might be coverage available
to him.
However, that is also dependent upon the amount of Garagekeepers
coverage the shop carried. If everyone's claims exceed the limit on
Garagekeepers, then payment would be apportioned amongst the claimants.
And beyond that, the owners would have to prove the value of their
vehicles at the time of loss.
Bottom line, if this shop was having financial difficulties, it is
unlikely that their insurance coverage was in force.
I've heard a lot of these same stories over the years and they are all
sad.
jay fishbein
wallingford, ct
I didn't catch the ongoing thread on this, just your
initial note about what
happened, and the recent one about insurance.
Apologies if I restate other
peoples' content.
Your friend has at least two possible avenues. First
and easiest, if he had
specific insurance on the car then he should call
the insurance company and
submit a theft claim. He should also file a theft
report with the police if
he has not already done so, because the insurance
adjuster will want to see
that.
If the insurance company says this is a case of
"mysterious disappearance"
and tries to deny the claim, or any garbage like
that, he should persist.
There's no "mystery," the stuff was obviously
stolen. It might be a mystery
as to where it is now, but there's no mystery as to
the cause of loss.
Someone stole his stuff.
If the insurance company says he should go against
the restorer and therefore
has no claim, he should insist that he does have a
legitimate claim and that
the insurance company pay him for his loss. After
paying him, the insurance
company is then subrogated to his [probably
worthless] rights of recovery
against the restorer. The insurance company can try
to recoup what they paid
your friend, but it won't matter to him whether they
succeed or not because
he will have been paid. Their job is to pay him his
claim.
I'm going to assume your friend did not have
insurance on the car, since most
insurers want pics of the car and immediately
decline "in process of
restoration" cars as bad risks (which is arguable
but not the point).
That leaves possibility number two. Your friend's
Homeowners policy excludes
"motor vehicles." Guess what. There was no "motor"
in this vehicle. In fact
it wasn't a vehicle at all, it was a bunch of Austin
Healey parts that had
the potential to become a motor vehicle at some
future point. His parts are
therefore "personal property" under his Homeowners
policy. His Homeowners
policy should cover personal property when away from
his premises (home).
This is subject to his deductible, and he'll have to
talk to a person who
normally adjusts homeowners claims so they'll be
totally clueless about what
a bunch of Healey parts are worth. They'll probably
start with "that's not
covered" and he'll have to say "tell me where the
policy says that." He will
also need to substantiate the value of the parts.
Now, there is a third option which might be the
insurance carried by the guy
who took off. There may be some way to determine who
insured him, even though
he seems to have disappeared. That would require
researching whether he was
"licensed" in any way, and whether the licensing
authorities required
evidence of insurance as part of the licensing
process. If there was no
insurance, or there's no way to tell, the lesson
here is an IMPORTANT one.
Nobody should ever drop off a car at a shop without
asking the shop to
provide a Certificate Of Insurance to prove that
they have the appropriate
insurance coverage. If you don't understand the
Certificate, the name of the
shop's insurance agent will be on the Cert so call
them and ask, "what the
heck does this gibberish really say; is my car
covered when this shop has it
in their care, custody and control, or not??" If the
shop won't provide a
Cert, you're on your own and you need to think about
whether you're going to
leave the car with them, at your risk, or not.
Incidentally, those "disclaimers" that say a shop is
not liable for loss or
damage to your car? Ignore them. Depending on the
state (differs by state and
degree of negligence) professionals cannot waive
away their negligence and
you may have rights to recover against them for
their negligence, whether you
signed a waiver (or they have a sign posted) or not.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 17:47:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Bearing Clearance
Anyway, has the crank been turned, requiring oversize bearings? Torquing
with new hardware? Really, the best way to check clearances is with inside
and outside mics.
GM
----- Original Message -----
>The bearing clearances in the shop manual are listed as
> "running clearance." For the mains (if memory serves...I don't have the
> bk in front of me) it's .0013-.0028. Running clearance seems to imply
> what the clearance should be when the bearings are heated up. I'm
> getting about.004 checking them cold with plasti-guage. Why don't the
> specs give cold clearance instead? Am I missing something here?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 14:48:12 -0700
Subject: Tahoe Regalia
My order of lapel pins is on back order so don't get
excited it yours are not there.
Kirk Kvam
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 16:58:34 +0000
Subject: Bullet Mirrors - Responses from List
The bullet mirrors from British source www.Holden.co.uk appear to be
different enough in style that I am thinking that they are from a
different manufacturer. Wondering if anyone can vouch for the quality of
these mirrors in general and whether or not they too have a rust
problem.
Also, Holden offers bullet mirrors in polished aluminum in addition to
chrome. Has anyone seen the aluminum bullets and how do they do over
time?
Thanks in advance,
Rich
BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 19:58:22 EDT
Subject: Re: tahoe camping
David Nock
co/chaiman Healey International 2002
June 23/28 2002
Horizon Casino Resort
Lake Tahoe, Nevada
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main
Page</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeygal at cs.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 20:02:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Fw: Re: Heartbroken Healey Dude
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 17:07:05 -0700
Subject: Re: tahoe camping
(The Other) Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 2:07 PM
Subject: tahoe camping
> I just realized that I could get to Tahoe in about
> 10hours from Potland, OR. Anyone planning on camping
> near Tahoe?
> I'd have to take my BJ9 and my two sons. but the chance
> to see over 500 Healeys in one place is too much to pass
> up. I'd get there on the 26th. Anyone have a lead on a
> camp ground. I remmeber camping in So Lake Tahoe about
> 20 years ago...
>
> --
> Ira Erbs
> Digs-4 Solutions
> For training,network,PC and
> Macintosh
> "Learning without thinking is
> labor lost; thinking
> without learning is dangerous."
>
> - Chinese Proverb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeygal at cs.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 20:15:20 EDT
Subject: Addendum: Heartbroken
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From <Austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 19:42:05 -0500
Subject: Fluke "British Car" Multimeters For Sale
Yes, this is British Car related stuff!! I have two brand new Fluke brand
digital multi-meters for sale (great for the trip to Tahoe - if you have it on
board, you won't need it!). They are complete, in the box, all paperwork, and
with warranty card to send in to manufacturer. One is Model 21 III (retails
for around $175 to $195), the other is Model 26 III (retails for around $225
to $240). I am selling them for $80 each, plus shipping, on a first come
first serve basis. These two models have been replaced with the next
generation, and I am simply passing on a good deal to my Healey freinds.
Please note: There was a factory recall on earlier versions of these models
and other Fluke meters. I called Fluke today and varified that these were
built after the recall.
For more information about these two models, you can search the internet.
Thanks,
Scott Helms
Northern Indiana
'57 BN4
'59 TR3A
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ron Davies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 17:47:21 -0700
Subject: bj8 wanted
I hope I'm not bombing the list with a "WANTED" listing.
I'm a serious buyer in Southern California looking for a very nice (1-5
footer) BJ8 phase 2 in excellent mechanical condition. I've been to all the
web sites with listings but want to buy from a private party (club member,
collector).
I had a '64 stolen in '70 and it's time to get back in the saddle. I've
joined both national Healey organizations.
Thanks to all. No, I can't go to Tahoe, wife's having toe surgery.
Please contact me at BJ8@dentalanesthesia.com
Ronald O. Davies
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 21:16:26 EDT
Subject: Re: bj8 wanted
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 21:25:33 -0400
Subject: RE: Heartbroken Healey Dude
A typical Big Healey restoration of good quality takes over 1000 hours
to complete. By restoration I mean take it completely apart and put it
back together the way it was originally. I know people who have spent
over 3000 hours to produce a "gold level" car.
Anyone who can do this work commercially is a skilled journeyman and
will be able to command a good income. Sure skilled amateurs can produce
remarkable results but they are doing this enjoyment, not for a living.
To complete this work efficiently a facility which could equally be used
for the maintenance of daily drivers is a minimum requirement.
So find out what your local repair shop charges for labour. (Around here
its about $70/hour), multiply this by 1000 and add about another 50% for
parts and other things that get subbed out.
That's $CDN105K.............. That is realty!!!
After 17 years of beating my head against the wall I became a realist
and don't do them anymore.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 20:56:39 -0500
Subject: Re: BN1 Sump
Mark
Nashville
BN1
> Another little problem with my Healey. I drove it 400 miles last weekend
> and when I returned I had another oil leak. This time it is from a small
> hole in the front of the sump. Does anybody have experiences with the
> Moss replacement pan?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 19:25:14 -0700
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Non-Adjustable Steering Wheels
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 5/14/02 11:35:52 PM, rader@interworld.net writes:
>
> << this is without a doubt the best looking Healey steering wheel made.
> Yes, i know it is not concours.
> Ron R
> wishin' I had one. >>
>
> Actually, it is acceptable in concours without deduction as a good
> reproduction of a period accessory.
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Beattie, Bob" <bob.beattie at dsto.defence.gov.au>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 13:04:44 +0930
Subject: wiring loom
Bob Beattie
Weapons Systems Division
PO Box 1500
DSTO Edinburgh
Sth Australia 5111
ph 0882595883 / fax 0882597702
e-mail bob.beattie@dsto.defence.gov.au
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 14:22:53 +1000
Subject: RE: wiring loom
There are two wiring harness manufacturers in Australia as far as I know. One
around the north coast of NSW and the other in the Melbourne area.
I have the details at home, so I'll get back to you tomorrow.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: Beattie, Bob [mailto:bob.beattie@dsto.defence.gov.au]
Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2002 1:35 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: wiring loom
Can anyone help me with a address or Phone No for a Australian supplier of
wiring looms for a Healey BN7.
Bob Beattie
Weapons Systems Division
PO Box 1500
DSTO Edinburgh
Sth Australia 5111
ph 0882595883 / fax 0882597702
e-mail bob.beattie@dsto.defence.gov.au
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Byron Krystad" <bkrystad at drizzle.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 21:24:30 -0700
Subject: clicking overdrive
So now I'm thinking electrical -- the click could very well be the pop
of an arcing wire or contacts. I have to do more work to locate the
sound. So far it seems to be in the gearbox or the bell housing. What
part of the overdrive circuit is up there? If the noise is due to the
overdrive circuit, why would it be caused by motion of the stick in
neutral?
If any of this is a familiar problem to anyone, I'd appreciate advice on
how to narrow my search down to a specific part, location, or
interaction of parts. Thanks!
-Byron Krystad
56 BN2
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from a point on the center of the front shroud about an inch or two in front
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 22:59:22 -0700
Subject: Re: front ride height
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2002 11:58 AM
Subject: front ride height
> Is there any way to adjust the front ride height on a
> big Healey? The front end of the car just seems to sit
> too high. I measured the gap between the top of my front
> tires and the wheel arch at about 3 1/2 inches. The
> height at the top of the headlight rings is about 30
> inches from the ground. When I put the front suspension
> together I used a 1 1/2 inch wood spacer to keep the
> upper shock arms off the rubber bumpers on the mounting
> perches. This is the recommended procedure as I recall.
> Is this normal and if not what can be done to adjust
> this.
> Thanks,
> Mark Fawcett
> 59 BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 23:14:08 -0700
Subject: Re: clicking overdrive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Byron Krystad" <bkrystad@drizzle.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 9:24 PM
Subject: clicking overdrive
> This is my first transmission/overdrive problem with my BN2. I noticed
> it on a club tour this last weekend. Coming down from highway speed with
> the overdrive dash switch on, and downshifting to surface street speed,
> I noticed that in neutral, if I tapped the stick against the right stop,
> an alarming "click" (one per tap) came from the vicinity of the bell
> housing. At first, I thought it was something to do with the gears or
> selector forks (noise from the tranny, what else would it be?).
>
> But then I experimented today at surface street speeds, and got these
> results: With the overdrive dash switch off, in motion or at a stop, no
> click. With the overdrive dash switch on, in motion or at a stop,
> there's the click.
>
> So now I'm thinking electrical -- the click could very well be the pop
> of an arcing wire or contacts. I have to do more work to locate the
> sound. So far it seems to be in the gearbox or the bell housing. What
> part of the overdrive circuit is up there? If the noise is due to the
> overdrive circuit, why would it be caused by motion of the stick in
> neutral?
>
> If any of this is a familiar problem to anyone, I'd appreciate advice on
> how to narrow my search down to a specific part, location, or
> interaction of parts. Thanks!
>
> -Byron Krystad
> 56 BN2
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 01:04:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: clicking overdrive
There is nothing to be worried about. This is what
your overdrive is supposed to do. The clicking you
are hearing is the selector switch activating the
overdrive solenoid when in 3rd or 4th gear (2nd or 3rd
in the BN1). The clicking is the solenoid going up or
down.
The reason the click happens in what you call
"neutral" is the selector switch activates when the
gear shift is anywhere in the vicinity of the third to
fourth gear or the "throw" between the two gears -
which is "neutral" as you describe it.
I surmise you just haven't noticed the noise before.
What you should worry about if you don't hear any
clicking.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Byron Krystad <bkrystad@drizzle.com> wrote:
> This is my first transmission/overdrive problem with
> my BN2. I noticed
> it on a club tour this last weekend. Coming down
> from highway speed with
> the overdrive dash switch on, and downshifting to
> surface street speed,
> I noticed that in neutral, if I tapped the stick
> against the right stop,
> an alarming "click" (one per tap) came from the
> vicinity of the bell
> housing. At first, I thought it was something to do
> with the gears or
> selector forks (noise from the tranny, what else
> would it be?).
>
> But then I experimented today at surface street
> speeds, and got these
> results: With the overdrive dash switch off, in
> motion or at a stop, no
> click. With the overdrive dash switch on, in motion
> or at a stop,
> there's the click.
>
> So now I'm thinking electrical -- the click could
> very well be the pop
> of an arcing wire or contacts. I have to do more
> work to locate the
> sound. So far it seems to be in the gearbox or the
> bell housing. What
> part of the overdrive circuit is up there? If the
> noise is due to the
> overdrive circuit, why would it be caused by motion
> of the stick in
> neutral?
>
> If any of this is a familiar problem to anyone, I'd
> appreciate advice on
> how to narrow my search down to a specific part,
> location, or
> interaction of parts. Thanks!
>
> -Byron Krystad
> 56 BN2
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 18:38:39 +1000
Subject: Re: teaching your son to drive your Healey
We were on our way home when I pulled into a quiet street and let her in the
seat. She is normally a very cautious, slow driver (woman driver?) but she
took off and blasted down the road, late braked into the corner and off
again. When we stopped I asked her about the drastic change in her driving
style and she replied that she thought you HAD to drive it that way as that
is the way I always drive it.
My daughter (21) insists the Healey is hers, and she is just letting me use
it until I drop dead.
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Robert D. Hughes" <dhugh at tscnet.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 01:52:51 -0700
Subject: XJB876
Robert Hughes
65 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ray Bradbery" <raymond at optushome.com.au>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 19:33:25 +1000
Subject: RE: wiring loom
Regards
Ray B
51 MGTD
59 AH 3000 BN7
58 Morris Minor 1000 Pickup
68 MGB V8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Beattie, Bob
Sent: Thursday, 16 May 2002 1:35 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: wiring loom
Can anyone help me with a address or Phone No for a Australian supplier of
wiring looms for a Healey BN7.
Bob Beattie
Weapons Systems Division
PO Box 1500
DSTO Edinburgh
Sth Australia 5111
ph 0882595883 / fax 0882597702
e-mail bob.beattie@dsto.defence.gov.au
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.361 / Virus Database: 199 - Release Date: 7/05/2002
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 07:16:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Heartbroken Healey Dude
I don't have an answer on how to protect yourself from these dudes. Get
lots of testimonials from others who have used them----see how long they
have been in business---check records of past convictions, law suits, ect ,
get receipts, take photos, visit often----don't pay up front (whatever you
do!) and, when it looks even a little like something is fishy, go get the
car!
tom
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Yarber <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 10:24 AM
Subject: Heartbroken Healey Dude
>My sincere condolences to the guy that got took. We, as Healey Owners,
need to find a way to protect fellow owners from getting ripped off by fly
by night restorers. Can anyone think of a fool-proof scheme?
>
>When I took my car to have the engine rebuilt I got a signed receipt from
the mechanic for the car, included in the receipt was the BN7/***
registration number and engine number. He had to take the engine tag off to
clean the engine block, but he gave it back to me when I picked up the car.
>
>I believe that there should be a standardized form with work proposed
checked off by the restorer, an approximate cost with a proviso that costs
exceeding 10% of estimated approximate costs would be discussed with owner
before work is performed, etcetera.
>
>It might also pay to have a complete inventory of the automobile, such as
wire wheels, fuel pump, radiator, shocks, etcetera.
>
>If I were going to trust my car to a restorer I think I would get an
engraving pencil and engrave the registration number on all removable parts,
and perhaps my social security number as well.
>
>I realize that these methods will not stop a crook. Nothing stops a crook
until the cell doors slam. However if we all ban together and put our
collective thoughts to practice, maybe we can slow them down some. Any
comments?
>
>Don
>BN7
>(BTW my BN7 was stolen in 1975 and I had no insurance. I was heartbroken
from August until October when the car was found in Las Vegas. There was an
unsuccesful attempt by someone to try to get me to mail them the "pink slip"
(title to those not from California). The theives were freed by the Las
Vegas Police, and I believe they returned for a second try. Only they found
that I had chained the four wheels to the stanchion in my carport. So they
took the top) Sorry for being long winded. Don
>
.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From john gillespie <austinbj8 at yahoo.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 04:46:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: state emission/safety inspections
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 05:44:36 -0700
Subject: Re: clicking overdrive
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Byron -
>
> There is nothing to be worried about. This is what
> your overdrive is supposed to do. The clicking you
> are hearing is the selector switch activating the
> overdrive solenoid when in 3rd or 4th gear (2nd or 3rd
> in the BN1). The clicking is the solenoid going up or
> down.
>
> The reason the click happens in what you call
> "neutral" is the selector switch activates when the
> gear shift is anywhere in the vicinity of the third to
> fourth gear or the "throw" between the two gears -
> which is "neutral" as you describe it.
>
> I surmise you just haven't noticed the noise before.
> What you should worry about if you don't hear any
> clicking.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
>
> --- Byron Krystad <bkrystad@drizzle.com> wrote:
> > This is my first transmission/overdrive problem with
> > my BN2. I noticed
> > it on a club tour this last weekend. Coming down
> > from highway speed with
> > the overdrive dash switch on, and downshifting to
> > surface street speed,
> > I noticed that in neutral, if I tapped the stick
> > against the right stop,
> > an alarming "click" (one per tap) came from the
> > vicinity of the bell
> > housing. At first, I thought it was something to do
> > with the gears or
> > selector forks (noise from the tranny, what else
> > would it be?).
> >
> > But then I experimented today at surface street
> > speeds, and got these
> > results: With the overdrive dash switch off, in
> > motion or at a stop, no
> > click. With the overdrive dash switch on, in motion
> > or at a stop,
> > there's the click.
> >
> > So now I'm thinking electrical -- the click could
> > very well be the pop
> > of an arcing wire or contacts. I have to do more
> > work to locate the
> > sound. So far it seems to be in the gearbox or the
> > bell housing. What
> > part of the overdrive circuit is up there? If the
> > noise is due to the
> > overdrive circuit, why would it be caused by motion
> > of the stick in
> > neutral?
> >
> > If any of this is a familiar problem to anyone, I'd
> > appreciate advice on
> > how to narrow my search down to a specific part,
> > location, or
> > interaction of parts. Thanks!
> >
> > -Byron Krystad
> > 56 BN2
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 07:44:20 -0600
Subject: Re: restoration nightmares and healey heartbreak
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 3:35 PM
Subject: Re: restoration nightmares and healey heartbreak
> In a message dated 5/15/02 7:05:47 AM, rotaryman@worldnet.att.net writes:
>
> << Be present
> when the restorer takes the car apart and document everything. Take all
the
> items not needed by restorer and keep them yourself. >>
>
> Having the experience of three restorations -- one done "turn-key," one
> pulled piece by piece out of the garage of another guy who was a good
> mechanic but couldn't run a business, and one done from my garage -- I
would
> strongly recommend to anyone who can spare the space, that you do all the
> "taking apart" yourself and keep the parts in your own garage --
especially
> the rarer bits. Taking apart a car is the easy part. It's reasonably easy
to
> get an engine and transmission to a rebuilder and get a body on minimal
> chassis parts to a body shop, leaving everything else under your own care.
> Most of what's left is going to require cleaning and why pay $50 an hour
to a
> garage to clean dirt and grease off parts. Then, with the help of someone
in
> your club who actually knows what they're doing, you can put it all back
> together again -- the really fun, educational part anyhow.
> just my 2 pence
> Cheers
> gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Hoylehouse at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 10:13:19 EDT
Subject: RE...OVERDRIVE
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Hoylehouse at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 10:14:34 EDT
Subject: HEARTBREAK
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 15:01:02 +0000
Subject: Re: teaching your son to drive your Healey
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
> Recently I decided to let my new girlfriend drive the Healey.
>
> We were on our way home when I pulled into a quiet street and let her in the
> seat. She is normally a very cautious, slow driver (woman driver?) but she
> took off and blasted down the road, late braked into the corner and off
> again. When we stopped I asked her about the drastic change in her driving
> style and she replied that she thought you HAD to drive it that way as that
> is the way I always drive it.
>
> My daughter (21) insists the Healey is hers, and she is just letting me use
> it until I drop dead.
>
>
> Greg Bankin
> gregbankin@primus.com.au
> Sunshine Coast
> Queensland
> Australia
>
> '58 BN4
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 16:27:47 +0000
Subject: Re: teaching your son to drive your Healey
- Chinese Proverb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 13:46:34 EDT
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Non-Adjustable Steering Wheels
<< then why not chrome wire wheels?
"a period accessory"
Ron >>
Because the Concours Registry committee ten years ago made the decision that
since the Derrington wheel was safer than the original plastic wheel and
still very period -- actually developed by Roger Menadue for the Healey
competition drivers -- while chrome wire wheels were not in any sense a
"safety" item.
Admittedly these decisions are arbitrary, but then, so's life!
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 13:58:20 EDT
Subject: Re: restoration nightmares and healey heartbreak
<< Gary,
From the other side of the coin, I have a limited amount of space in my
shop, so I frequently ask the owners to take home the pieces of which I have
no need for at any given point in the restoration process and guess
what...the owners also loose as many parts as any shop can...
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque >>
I don't doubt that at all. But how the heck do you keep track of who's got
what? At least if the owner is keeping everything and delivering only what
needs to be worked on then the shop's off the hook and not likely to be
blamed (e.g. if he brings only the shell, then it's hard to argue that the
shop lost the irreplacable chrome badge or put it on another restoration
project.)
Cheers
gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Michael Giroux <MGIROUX at SGL.COM>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 13:50:47 -0400
Subject: Is there a DEAD Healey registry ?
I am about to remove the few remaining good bits from a very, very rusty
Healey and dispose of the rusted remains. Does anyone keep a record of
these never to see the road again cars? If anyone keeps this type of list
and would like to record it I will check to see if the sn# is still on
the car. (There is at least one plate left on the fire wall and I didn't
inspect it).
Michael Giroux
62 BT7, 71 TR6, 81 Malibu(daily driver)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams at worldnet.att.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 15:14:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Is there a DEAD Healey registry ?
If it's a BN-1,2 I'm interested! Am keeping record of as many
dead/scrapped/parted out 100's as possible, as part of the 100 Registry I'm
maintaining. If it's a 6 cyl car and there are no other takers, I'll take
and keep the record anyway as I feel that this is an important part of the
whole Database/Registry concept. Knowing where the cars are, what condition
they're in and how many are still alive is as interesting and useful
information as the more commonly held data.
Ed Adams
BN-1 227550
100 Registry
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Giroux <MGIROUX@SGL.COM>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, May 16, 2002 2:14 PM
Subject: Is there a DEAD Healey registry ?
>Hi Listers,
>
> I am about to remove the few remaining good bits from a very, very rusty
>Healey and dispose of the rusted remains. Does anyone keep a record of
>these never to see the road again cars? If anyone keeps this type of list
>and would like to record it I will check to see if the sn# is still on
>the car. (There is at least one plate left on the fire wall and I didn't
>inspect it).
>
>Michael Giroux
>62 BT7, 71 TR6, 81 Malibu(daily driver)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 15:09:09 EDT
Subject: Dead, but not forgotten
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From JAnde63063 at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 16:28:05 EDT
Subject: Re: state emission/safety inspections
North Carolina inspection law requires a safety inspection only for your BJ8.
This includes brakes, lighting, tire tread depth etc. Emission testing is not
required.
There are two very active AH clubs here and several clubs for British cars.
You can find a car show or club function every weekend starting in April
going thru November.
I belong to the Triad Austin Healey Club. We are located in the Triad of NC.
(Greensboro, Winston Salem, and High Point and east to the coast)
Jerry Anderson
Hendrix Wire Wheel
Greensboro, NC
BN4 1957
JH-5 1975
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 14:27:20 -0700
Subject: Engine Paint
Perhaps Gary or Roger can answer this. I have a BN4 "transition" car. The
engine still wears its original Morris green paint. I would like to repaint
the valve cover and oil canister during my next engine service. Is this
Morris green the same as the BMC green used on Spridgets? If not, what is
the proper color and where can I get it in rattle cans?
TIA,
John
'58 BN4
_________________________________________________________________
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 18:15:03 -0400
Subject: Ride height
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From JAnde63063 at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 18:56:12 EDT
Subject: Re: Engine Paint
Moss has spray cans of green paint for Sprite engines. The color is what I
think of as
Morris green.
Hope this helps.
Jerry Anderson
Hendrix Wire Wheel
BN4 with 29K engine
JH-5
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 17:38:22 -0700
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Non-Adjustable Steering Wheels
How is the Derrington safer?
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> In a message dated 5/15/02 7:25:59 PM, rader@interworld.net writes:
>
> << then why not chrome wire wheels?
> "a period accessory"
> Ron >>
>
> Because the Concours Registry committee ten years ago made the decision that
> since the Derrington wheel was safer than the original plastic wheel and
> still very period -- actually developed by Roger Menadue for the Healey
> competition drivers -- while chrome wire wheels were not in any sense a
> "safety" item.
>
> Admittedly these decisions are arbitrary, but then, so's life!
>
> Cheers
> Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 17:50:53 -0700
Subject: Austin Healey 3000 Carpet Recommendation
In talking with another clubmate here in San Diego, who is presently having a
Moss interior installed by a "professional", he said (of the carpet kit) that
he wasn't tremendously pleased with the ease of the installation process of
his Moss purchased carpet and panel kit. It said it didn't exactly go in
"right out of the box" and that it took some significant tinkering with.
Otherwise he thought the kit looked good but maybe not overall as good as he
hoped.
Being that this is a costly endeavor... can someone make some recommendations
for Carpet and Panel Kits... either Moss or other.
Additionally, and probably to complicate matters, my 1960 BT7 is being
modified to receive a 1965 BJ8 Transmission (center-shift). Is that going to
make buying a packaged carpet kit difficult? Might I be able to just use a
BT7 (like say for a 1961-2) center-shift carpet pattern as I might logically
deduce? I assume nothing anymore with Healeys is why I ask.
Then lastly... Can this be done by myself? I have never put carpet into a
car needless to say a Healey. I have however ripped carpet out of a Healey
and that seemed easy. I know going in that this is likely going to be
frustrating and that it won't be done in a weekend. I can accept that without
disappointment. I have already done a lot of prep work in cleaning and having
some new welding work done to replace some rust. Before the interior goes in
I am painting the floors with Hammerite to prevent future issues with water
damage/rust. I just want to believe that installing a carpet kit and panels
can't be THAT hard? Or can it? I had a guy quote me something like $1,000
for him to do it. That makes it sound hard or makes be think he really just
doesn't want the grief.
Best Regards,
Matt Wilson
1960 BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Andy Phillips" <andyp at cylogix.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 21:17:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Non-Adjustable Steering Wheels
> In a message dated 5/15/02 7:25:59 PM, rader@interworld.net writes:
>
> << then why not chrome wire wheels?
> "a period accessory"
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 07:20:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Carpet Recommendation
I installed the new carpet in my BJ8, and it was a rather expensive wool kit
from England that I bought from a lister who decided not to use it. The
hardest part for me was figuring out how some of the pieces were supposed to
fit because it wasn't obvious from the shapes (these turned out to be the
pieces that go into the footwells and around to the firewall). Once I
established which piece went where, it was fairly easy. Here's how:
Use some paper grocery bags (preferred) or newspaper sheets and fit them to
the floor and other areas you are going to carpet. This will involve putting
the bags down, forcing them into corners, and marking the edges for trimming,
sometimes taping bags together, folding them, etc. The idea is to make a
template from the bags that will fit into/onto the areas you are trying to
carpet. You can work on each piece at a time. Once the template is fit into
place and you are happy with the way it fits, remove it and use it to trace
onto the carpet pieces with chalk. Then, trim the carpet pieces to shape.
They should fit pretty closely into place if you accurately transferred the
shape of the template to the carpet. Be careful not to trace the shape onto
the wrong side of the carpet, or you will have some grief when you cut it out.
To fit over curved surfaces, such as the inner wheel wells that project into
the back seat area, you need to cut "darts", or slits into the material to
keep it from buckling as you mold it into a curve. If done carefully, these
will be invisible when you are finished. You can do this a little bit at a
time as you trial fit the piece and glue it into place. Once everything is
cut and trimmed, you glue the pieces in, except for the floors and the tranny
tunnel cover, which should use snap fasteners.
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: matt wilson
To: Healey Forum
Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2002 5:50 PM
Subject: Austin Healey 3000 Carpet Recommendation
Dear Healey Forum-
Thanks so much for the excellent responses on the steering wheel question I
posted several days ago. I read each response and appreciated them all.
The
decision will ultimately be to wait a bit for the cash for the Derrington.
It
will be the crowning touch to the new interior going into my BT7.
In talking with another clubmate here in San Diego, who is presently having
a
Moss interior installed by a "professional", he said (of the carpet kit)
that
he wasn't tremendously pleased with the ease of the installation process of
his Moss purchased carpet and panel kit. It said it didn't exactly go in
"right out of the box" and that it took some significant tinkering with.
Otherwise he thought the kit looked good but maybe not overall as good as
he
hoped.
Being that this is a costly endeavor... can someone make some
recommendations
for Carpet and Panel Kits... either Moss or other.
Additionally, and probably to complicate matters, my 1960 BT7 is being
modified to receive a 1965 BJ8 Transmission (center-shift). Is that going
to
make buying a packaged carpet kit difficult? Might I be able to just use a
BT7 (like say for a 1961-2) center-shift carpet pattern as I might
logically
deduce? I assume nothing anymore with Healeys is why I ask.
Then lastly... Can this be done by myself? I have never put carpet into a
car needless to say a Healey. I have however ripped carpet out of a Healey
and that seemed easy. I know going in that this is likely going to be
frustrating and that it won't be done in a weekend. I can accept that
without
disappointment. I have already done a lot of prep work in cleaning and
having
some new welding work done to replace some rust. Before the interior goes
in
I am painting the floors with Hammerite to prevent future issues with water
damage/rust. I just want to believe that installing a carpet kit and
panels
can't be THAT hard? Or can it? I had a guy quote me something like $1,000
for him to do it. That makes it sound hard or makes be think he really
just
doesn't want the grief.
Best Regards,
Matt Wilson
1960 BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 01:22:46 +0000
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Carpet Recommendation
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 01:39:40 +0000
Subject: Tahoe regalia
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Pollock <wjpollock at erols.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 21:42:11 -0400
Subject: healey shop
If anyone has adverse feelings please contact me off line.
Thanks-Bill Pollock
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 20:58:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Why the derrington is safer...
i.e. after you've sideswiped an exceptionally rude and
agressive Argentinian driving an ex-factory,
four-year-old '58 Testarossa (with a chipped exhaust
valve on #9 and a magneto misfiring on #1 - The
argentinian Paulo, a neuvo riche from trading in
Brazilian latex, got rich in part from his penchant to
cut corners on cost - in this case not rebuilding the
motor with new factory parts before the race), then
you continue bouncing off the rails at Dunlop Curve
yet somehow not spinning into the Esses,
white knuckled,
only to be rear ended by a soon-to-be-cock-eyed
Austrian driving a Porche RSK (Gunter, his pit crew
calls him "the ice man" - incidentally the collision
chips the bearing race on the RSK crank's ball
bearings, which eventually causes him to retire an
hour later with a seized motor),
which then you manage to keep control but by the time
you hit Tertre Rouge, the rear left wheel goes flying
off at maximum cornering Gs - the rear dunlop disk
biting the track and flipping your car mid-air over
the rails... thankfully landing right side up ... but
the Healey's body pinched a few inches - thankfully
with the derrington you have the extra inch or two to
leap out before the sparking fuel pump contacts set
fire to the puddle of gas gushing from the broken fuel
line... Curses to Paulo & Gunter, but see you soon on
the track at the next race.
Thank god the healey is salvageble and ... thirty
years later is now owned by a semi-retired doctor in
San Diego who relishes the fact his car is the only
one in town painted florida green....
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
P.S. What track am I describing?
--- Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net> wrote:
> Gary,
>
> How is the Derrington safer?
>
> Bob
>
*****************************************************
> Bob Spidell
> bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> San Jose, CA.
> robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
> PP/ASEL
>
*****************************************************
>
> > In a message dated 5/15/02 7:25:59 PM,
> rader@interworld.net writes:
> >
> > << then why not chrome wire wheels?
> > "a period accessory"
> > Ron >>
> >
> > Because the Concours Registry committee ten years
> ago made the decision that
> > since the Derrington wheel was safer than the
> original plastic wheel and
> > still very period -- actually developed by Roger
> Menadue for the Healey
> > competition drivers -- while chrome wire wheels
> were not in any sense a
> > "safety" item.
> >
> > Admittedly these decisions are arbitrary, but
> then, so's life!
> >
> > Cheers
> > Gary
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 21:40:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Why the derrington is safer...
Gotta be LeMans ...
Great story.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2002 8:58 PM
Subject: Why the derrington is safer...
> It's smaller, so you can jump in and out of the car
> faster -
>
> i.e. after you've sideswiped an exceptionally rude and
> agressive Argentinian driving an ex-factory,
> four-year-old '58 Testarossa (with a chipped exhaust
> valve on #9 and a magneto misfiring on #1 - The
> argentinian Paulo, a neuvo riche from trading in
> Brazilian latex, got rich in part from his penchant to
> cut corners on cost - in this case not rebuilding the
> motor with new factory parts before the race), then
> you continue bouncing off the rails at Dunlop Curve
> yet somehow not spinning into the Esses,
>
> white knuckled,
>
> only to be rear ended by a soon-to-be-cock-eyed
> Austrian driving a Porche RSK (Gunter, his pit crew
> calls him "the ice man" - incidentally the collision
> chips the bearing race on the RSK crank's ball
> bearings, which eventually causes him to retire an
> hour later with a seized motor),
>
> which then you manage to keep control but by the time
> you hit Tertre Rouge, the rear left wheel goes flying
> off at maximum cornering Gs - the rear dunlop disk
> biting the track and flipping your car mid-air over
> the rails... thankfully landing right side up ... but
> the Healey's body pinched a few inches - thankfully
> with the derrington you have the extra inch or two to
> leap out before the sparking fuel pump contacts set
> fire to the puddle of gas gushing from the broken fuel
> line... Curses to Paulo & Gunter, but see you soon on
> the track at the next race.
>
> Thank god the healey is salvageble and ... thirty
> years later is now owned by a semi-retired doctor in
> San Diego who relishes the fact his car is the only
> one in town painted florida green....
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> P.S. What track am I describing?
>
> --- Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net> wrote:
> > Gary,
> >
> > How is the Derrington safer?
> >
> > Bob
> >
> *****************************************************
> > Bob Spidell
> > bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> > San Jose, CA.
> > robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> > `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
> > PP/ASEL
> >
> *****************************************************
> >
> > > In a message dated 5/15/02 7:25:59 PM,
> > rader@interworld.net writes:
> > >
> > > << then why not chrome wire wheels?
> > > "a period accessory"
> > > Ron >>
> > >
> > > Because the Concours Registry committee ten years
> > ago made the decision that
> > > since the Derrington wheel was safer than the
> > original plastic wheel and
> > > still very period -- actually developed by Roger
> > Menadue for the Healey
> > > competition drivers -- while chrome wire wheels
> > were not in any sense a
> > > "safety" item.
> > >
> > > Admittedly these decisions are arbitrary, but
> > then, so's life!
> > >
> > > Cheers
> > > Gary
> LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
> http://launch.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Byron Krystad" <bkrystad at drizzle.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Doug Ingram'
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 22:31:15 -0700
Subject: RE: clicking overdrive -- Thanks!
-Byron
BN2
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Thursday, May 16, 2002 9:28 PM
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Carpet Recommendation
>Matt,
>In my opinion the only interior, including carpet should
>come from Heritage Trim. They offer several different
>lines of carpet, including Wilton wool, Karvel and
>blended polyester or nylon. They are a bit more than
>Moss, but the quality shows. I just got my seat covers
>and they are great. Talk to Duncan and visit there web
>site at www.heritagetrim.com
>Mark Fawcett
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From <caudle1 at charter.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 08:02:00 -0400
Subject: test
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From BSands8417 at aol.com
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 09:06:07 EDT
Subject: AH 100 Seat/Seat Belt Installation
2). What is the best way of anchoring seat belts? What anchor points?
Thanks.
Ben
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 09:26:35 +0100
Subject: Re: Is there a DEAD Healey registry ?
Our 100 Register has always recorded scrapped cars when this information
has been provided. I and my predecessors have encouraged this. However
over a twenty year period, 100s that have previously been declared to
the Register as scrapped have later turned up rebuilt!
We are therefore very wary when it comes to declaring a car as scrapped.
Currently out of 1615 entries in our 100 Register we only have 9 where
we are sure that nothing remains of the original car other than parts
that have been built into other cars.
Maybe this says something about the value (not necessarily monetary)
owners place on 100s.
All the best
>
> I am about to remove the few remaining good bits from a very, very rusty
>Healey and dispose of the rusted remains. Does anyone keep a record of
>these never to see the road again cars? If anyone keeps this type of list
>and would like to record it I will check to see if the sn# is still on
>the car. (There is at least one plate left on the fire wall and I didn't
>inspect it).
>
>Michael Giroux
>62 BT7, 71 TR6, 81 Malibu(daily driver)
>
--
John Harper
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rmoment at aol.com
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 09:54:37 EDT
Subject: Re: concours point deductions
> Re: Austin Healey 3000 Non-Adjustable Steering WheelsHow many points do you
> lose for chrome wire wheels?
>
First, if someone is planning on entering Concours after finishing their
restoration they really ought to purchase a copy of the Concours Committee
Guidelines. There is one version for BN1 - BJ8 and another for Sprites.
In the BN1 - BJ8 one at the back there is a copy of the score sheets that
gives detailed information on how much is up for deduction on each category
judged. Keep in mind that it is impossible to list each separate item on a
car so judges have to make flaw areas "fit" into one of the listed categories
if they aren't separately shown.
Under the category "Undercarriage and Suspension" the following standard
deductions are given:
Tires: Non-dunlop 5-90x15 bias ply -3
Any radial 165x15 or 175x15 -4
Any other size or type of tire -10
Wheels:
Spokes ---- loose spokes (no max deduction) -1 per spoke
broken or mising spokes -2 per
spoke
wheel types --
Dayton 48 or 60 spoke -5
Chrome (unless as-shipped) -10
(documentation required as proof)
Exception:
48 spoke chrome on BN1/2 accepted without deduction
60 spoke on BN1/2 or 48 on BJ8 -10
72 spoke wheels -10
Other non-original styles/sizes/types -20
Note: all points listed are out of 1000. Thus a 10 point deduction brings a
car's score down 1 point on a scale of 100.
Remember, Concours is focussed on showing how the cars were offered. Thus
originality is just as important, if not moreso, than qualitly of the
restoration. If you like 72 spoke wheels on lyour car, then by all means buy
thelm, but lshow you car in Popularity. That is where air conditioners,
speed control, etc. belong. This is not snobbery -- just trying to make
clear what the different types of "showing" are about.
Finally, I've seen manly members of this group ask qluestions that have
previously been answered not 2 months afterwards. Please save this posting
or, better yet, get a copy of the Guidelines.
Roger
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 10:00:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Non-Adjustable Steering Wheels
Simple. With one of the three spokes at the top center, when you have a
head on collision and the steering column is driven into you, your eyes
suffer no injury.
Feeling silly at 10 a.m.
Keith Pennell
> Gary,
>
> How is the Derrington safer?
>
> Bob
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Troy Thames <TThames at barnwell-whaley.com>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 10:09:21 -0400
Subject: Comments on Nostalgia Motorcars, Ltd?
Troy
Charleston, SC
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 07:10:30 -0700
Subject: advice on dealer
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 09:35:31 -0500
Subject: Healey Sighting
Yesterday my wife and I were en route to Brownsville, IL (near Carmi) traveling
West on IL 14 approximately 10 miles west of the (very swollen) Wabash River.
We spotted two Austin Healeys east bound. We were in a White 91 Chrysler New
Yorker. I honked and waved.
Any one on the list?
Thanks,
Don Yarber
Morganfield, KY BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 08:28:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Carpet Recommendation
> Then lastly... Can this be done by myself? I have never put carpet into
a
> car needless to say a Healey. I have however ripped carpet out of a
Healey
> and that seemed easy. I know going in that this is likely going to be
> frustrating and that it won't be done in a weekend. I can accept that
without
> disappointment. I have already done a lot of prep work in cleaning and
having
> some new welding work done to replace some rust. Before the interior goes
in
> I am painting the floors with Hammerite to prevent future issues with
water
> damage/rust. I just want to believe that installing a carpet kit and
panels
> can't be THAT hard? Or can it? I had a guy quote me something like
$1,000
> for him to do it. That makes it sound hard or makes be think he really
just
> doesn't want the grief.
>
> Best Regards,
> Matt Wilson
> 1960 BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeygal at cs.com
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 12:18:07 EDT
Subject: Monterey Historics
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeygal at cs.com
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 12:21:07 EDT
Subject: Monterey Historics Addendum
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from a 100 mile drive to check out the stiff shift problem and am
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 13:13:35 -0400
Subject: Fw: gremlin in my tranny
----- Original Message -----
From: "ed orr" <eorr@cogeco.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 9:36 AM
Subject: gremlin in my tranny
> Just returned from NEOhio Swap Meet last night , 5 1/2 hour drive ,
> first long drive of the year. After about an hours driving the
> transmission began to shift stiffly when I had to stop could not
> shift at all out of fourth or if I did get out of fourth could not
> down shift into third just grinding. We stopped for about 3 or 4
> minutes and I could shift again , a little stiff . The bad shift
> condition soon returned when back on the road . We stopped for
dinner
> 40 minutes and the shift was back working great , another 50 miles
to
> home and it was tight but not too bad . Any suggestions . The
> following should be taken into consideration . The car has been on
the
> road 2 years since restoration , no tranny rebuild but has worked
> exellent before this incident . Master cylinders rebuilt with NOS
kits
> using silicone brake fluid in all new clutch and brake systems ,
> cylinders were polished with steel wool (not good eh !). Over the
> winter I changed the oil in the transmission with 20-50 and over
> filled it by quite a bit , about 1/4" on the stick . I sure could
use
> the wisdom of the list . Thanks
>
> Ed Orr - '67 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 15:12:36 -0700
Subject: Re: teaching your son to drive your Healey
Subsequently, he was my co-driver on the trip to Snowmass in '82. He is 46
years old now so I let him drive the Healey up to Tahoe last week to help me
set up the rallies for OR2002.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 15:21:21 -0700
Subject: Paint/Powdercoat questions
Does anyone have experience with a color named "Poncho Blue"
(PMB-3072)? I am getting ready to powdercoat my chassis next week. This
was the color the powdercoating company came up with as a match to Healey
Blue.
A co-worker thought Poncho Blue may be a Pontiac color.
_________________________________________________________________
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 15:34:59 -0700
Subject: Re: teaching your son to drive your Healey
Kirk Kvam
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 17, 2002 3:12 PM
Subject: Re: teaching your son to drive your Healey
> Way back when - too many years ago to dwell on - as my son was coming up
on
> his 16th birthday, he, too, thought that he was going to be able have
access
> to the Healey as transportation to High School. For those of you who may
be
> reluctant to turn over the keys to a teenager but have a problem saying
> "no", I might suggest the following: Send him to your insurance company
> and have his ask how much more the premiums will be to add him as a driver
> of the Healey (this is assuming that your son would be required to pay the
> difference - as mine would have been). That was the last the subject ever
> came up.
>
> Subsequently, he was my co-driver on the trip to Snowmass in '82. He is
46
> years old now so I let him drive the Healey up to Tahoe last week to help
me
> set up the rallies for OR2002.
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 05:40:05 -0700
Subject: Re: Is there a DEAD Healey registry?
It sometimes becomes problematic how to account for the scrapped cars, though.
Suppose a car donates all its parts except the VIN plate to a restoration.
Which car survives -- the donor that gave away all its parts, or the receiver
"car" that provided only the VIN plate? There are a couple of cases like that
in the registry.
I'm hoping that Tahoe will provide an opportunity to identify and document
even more BJ8s, with all the cars and owners gathered together in one place.
I think most of the BJ8 owners on this list have already contributed, but if
not and if you will be at Tahoe, look me up. I'll be the one in the
yellow/black BJ8 with N.C. license plate TARHEELY. I'll be glad to burden you
with one of my BJ8 questionnaires.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666 (still alive and running fine, and will be driven to Tahoe)
BJ8 Registry (4,050/17,712 = 23% !!)
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: John Harper
To: Michael Giroux
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, May 17, 2002 1:26 AM
Subject: Re: Is there a DEAD Healey registry ?
Michael
Our 100 Register has always recorded scrapped cars when this information
has been provided. I and my predecessors have encouraged this. However
over a twenty year period, 100s that have previously been declared to
the Register as scrapped have later turned up rebuilt!
We are therefore very wary when it comes to declaring a car as scrapped.
Currently out of 1615 entries in our 100 Register we only have 9 where
we are sure that nothing remains of the original car other than parts
that have been built into other cars.
Maybe this says something about the value (not necessarily monetary)
owners place on 100s.
All the best
>
> I am about to remove the few remaining good bits from a very, very rusty
>Healey and dispose of the rusted remains. Does anyone keep a record of
>these never to see the road again cars? If anyone keeps this type of list
>and would like to record it I will check to see if the sn# is still on
>the car. (There is at least one plate left on the fire wall and I didn't
>inspect it).
>
>Michael Giroux
>62 BT7, 71 TR6, 81 Malibu(daily driver)
>
--
John Harper
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From dwflagg at juno.com
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 21:10:57 -0400
Subject: Re:TR Manual
Regards,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From <caudle1 at charter.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 22:08:51 -0400
Subject: Re: teaching your son to drive your Healey
Sent: Friday, May 17, 2002 6:12 PM
Subject: Re: teaching your son to drive your Healey
> Way back when - too many years ago to dwell on - as my son was coming up
on
> his 16th birthday, he, too, thought that he was going to be able have
access
> to the Healey as transportation to High School. For those of you who may
be
> reluctant to turn over the keys to a teenager but have a problem saying
> "no", I might suggest the following: Send him to your insurance company
> and have his ask how much more the premiums will be to add him as a driver
> of the Healey (this is assuming that your son would be required to pay the
> difference - as mine would have been). That was the last the subject ever
> came up.
>
> Subsequently, he was my co-driver on the trip to Snowmass in '82. He is
46
> years old now so I let him drive the Healey up to Tahoe last week to help
me
> set up the rallies for OR2002.
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeygal at cs.com
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 22:13:54 EDT
Subject: Re: Teaching your Son/Letting the Ladies Drive
>BTW, my wife of 20 years has never driven the car. I
have the seat rails redrilled and moved back for my
height and she is almost a foot shorter than me. All of
this talk about letting wet-behind -the-ears kids drive
your cars has inspired me to let her take it out. I'll
fabricate some peddle extensions for her. I'll give you
all credit for my temporary insanity.--
Ira Erbs<
Hi Ira and those Healey owners who may someday let their wives, girlfriends
or daughters drive their car, or for the other healeygals who are similarly
height challenged -
I've just had a custom-fitted foam cushion with a separate fabric cover that
slips over both the cushion and the upholstered back of the driver's seat
custom made after 25 years of driving my car with two cushions that looked
really tacky and flopped all over the place or on the ground when I got out
of the car. On those rare occasions when anyone taller than me (the rest of
the planet) drives the car, they can be easily slipped off and, if necessary,
stored in the trunk, although no one gets to drive the car for that long.
The other good thing about this system is that I don't have to drive with
extension pedals - something I thought about but refuse to do.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeygal at cs.com
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 22:16:25 EDT
Subject: Healeys at Monterey?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From JSoderling at aol.com
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 23:15:53 EDT
Subject: How to Wash Your Healey @ Tahoe?
Because of the Tahoe Basin Clean Water regulations, there is no washing of
cars at Tahoe except at commercial car washes. Therefore, no car washing at
the Horizon or other hotels. There are only a couple of self-wash wash bays
at the South end of Tahoe. So cleaning 550 Healeys for the Popular Car Show
and Concours Judging is going to be difficult. The Open Roads Planning
Committee is attempting to get exclusive use of the available commercial
self-wash facilities at South Lake Tahoe for Open Roads members. Even so,
500+ Healeys are not going to all get a regular wash Sunday afternoon and
evening for the Monday car show.
So, if you are driving any distant to Tahoe, I would first suggest that you
stop at the last town you pass through before getting to Tahoe Basin that has
a car wash and wash you Healey.
So, what is the collective wisdom of the List as far as the best methods to
"touch up" wash our Healeys at Tahoe before the car show? "Sponge bathe" the
Healey with a bucket of water from your hotel room? What dry wash products
are available and are they harmful to the paint finnish? Are they effective?
Any other suggestions other than pray for rain?
Vrooom vrooom,
John
100-Six Erika the Red
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 00:12:51 EDT
Subject: Re: How to Wash Your Healey @ Tahoe?
<< what is the collective wisdom of the List as far as the best methods to
"touch up" wash our Healeys at Tahoe before the car show? >>
California duster, then, maguires final inspection does a good job. But not
with dirt still on the car. So be careful. Or show the car dirty.
Richard
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 15:06:33 +1000
Subject: Re: How to Wash Your Healey @ Tahoe?
http://www.dri-wash.com/
I have used it exclusively on my BJ8 since its restoration - at the
recommendation of Colin Rule (who has probably restored more concours
winning Healeys than anyone else here in Oz). Many Healey owners here in
Australia use it. You spray it on, wipe with a clean cotton terry-towelling
nappy, then polish off with another clean terry-towelling nappy. You don't
wash the car first (unless it had mud caked over it... which is highly
unlikely with a Healey in 2002...)
I have no interest in Dri-wash & guard - just a happy customer (who has used
litres of the stuff!!)
Chris
PS Use only 'clean' nappies, and remember to remove the baby first......
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
'one of the first and one of the last'
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: <JSoderling@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2002 1:15 PM
Subject: How to Wash Your Healey @ Tahoe?
> Those of us going to Open Roads 2002 need to do a little collective
thinking
> about car washing at Tahoe.
>
> Because of the Tahoe Basin Clean Water regulations, there is no washing of
> cars at Tahoe except at commercial car washes. Therefore, no car washing
at
> the Horizon or other hotels. There are only a couple of self-wash wash
bays
> at the South end of Tahoe. So cleaning 550 Healeys for the Popular Car
Show
> and Concours Judging is going to be difficult. The Open Roads Planning
> Committee is attempting to get exclusive use of the available commercial
> self-wash facilities at South Lake Tahoe for Open Roads members. Even so,
> 500+ Healeys are not going to all get a regular wash Sunday afternoon and
> evening for the Monday car show.
>
> So, if you are driving any distant to Tahoe, I would first suggest that
you
> stop at the last town you pass through before getting to Tahoe Basin that
has
> a car wash and wash you Healey.
>
> So, what is the collective wisdom of the List as far as the best methods
to
> "touch up" wash our Healeys at Tahoe before the car show? "Sponge bathe"
the
> Healey with a bucket of water from your hotel room? What dry wash
products
> are available and are they harmful to the paint finnish? Are they
effective?
> Any other suggestions other than pray for rain?
> Vrooom vrooom,
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 07:06:43 -0400
Subject: Re: How to Wash Your Healey @ Tahoe?
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 08:07:25 -0400
Subject: Re: How to Wash Your Healey @ Tahoe?
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <JSoderling@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 17, 2002 11:15 PM
Subject: How to Wash Your Healey @ Tahoe?
> Those of us going to Open Roads 2002 need to do a little collective
thinking
> about car washing at Tahoe.
>
> Because of the Tahoe Basin Clean Water regulations, there is no washing of
> cars at Tahoe except at commercial car washes. Therefore, no car washing
at
> the Horizon or other hotels. There are only a couple of self-wash wash
bays
> at the South end of Tahoe. So cleaning 550 Healeys for the Popular Car
Show
> and Concours Judging is going to be difficult. The Open Roads Planning
> Committee is attempting to get exclusive use of the available commercial
> self-wash facilities at South Lake Tahoe for Open Roads members. Even so,
> 500+ Healeys are not going to all get a regular wash Sunday afternoon and
> evening for the Monday car show.
>
> So, if you are driving any distant to Tahoe, I would first suggest that
you
> stop at the last town you pass through before getting to Tahoe Basin that
has
> a car wash and wash you Healey.
>
> So, what is the collective wisdom of the List as far as the best methods
to
> "touch up" wash our Healeys at Tahoe before the car show? "Sponge bathe"
the
> Healey with a bucket of water from your hotel room? What dry wash
products
> are available and are they harmful to the paint finnish? Are they
effective?
> Any other suggestions other than pray for rain?
> Vrooom vrooom,
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 17:14:04 -0700
Subject: re: How to Wash Your Healey at Tahoe?
Well, it IS an option, considering the limitations!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: JSoderling@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, May 17, 2002 8:15 PM
Subject: How to Wash Your Healey @ Tahoe?
Those of us going to Open Roads 2002 need to do a little collective thinking
about car washing at Tahoe.
Any other suggestions other than pray for rain?
Vrooom vrooom,
John
100-Six Erika the Red
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 09:11:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Is there a DEAD Healey registry?
I know there are VIN numbers stamped on various sections, some hidden,
of all cars made in the USA. Was that the case with the imports as well? I
rebuilt a vehicle years ago that was 'retitled' using the old, hidden
numbers and a new title, and used plenty of used parts gathered from far and
wide.
I would think that unless you saw the last (numbered) part crushed,
along with the VIN plate, then the car might still exist, at least in some
mystical form. I also seem to recollect that, at least in PA, the scrap yard
has to account in some fashion for the VIN plates of 'destroyed' cars. Is
that the same in other states?
Just a thought, based on my experience,
Charley Braum
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 09:41:09 -0400
Subject: Dead Healey Sandwich
Jim D
60 BT7 2167
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 22:33:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Is there a DEAD Healey registry?
In my opinion, there isn't anything wrong with re-titling a car with another
number, if that will help someone to be able to register it and keep it on the
road. I would just like to be able to account for as many of the original
17,712 BJ8s manufactured as possible, whether they exist only as a VIN plate
or as essentially intact. The point was, that can be confusing when a car is
assembled using the drive train from car A in a Jule frame, but the external
sheet metal and the VIN plate comes from car B. Is it Car A or Car B that
survives? Which would be considered "scrapped"? In this case, I have listed
Car B as the survivor, since it is the number that is registered, with car A
noted as "scrapped". However, the owner of both these cars says that
eventually the "scrapped" one will be restored, too.
BJ8s (and maybe BJ7s, but I have been unable to identify a number on mine) had
the VIN stamped into the outboard vertical surface of the right front shock
absorber mount. Some of these numbers are very imperfectly stamped, however,
and are so faint that they are invisible with paint on the surface. My
number (36666) is stamped so that only the bottom half of the digits is
legible. It looks like HBJ8L/00000.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
HBJ8L/36814 (frame only)
HBJ7L/20111 (resting quietly, awaiting my retirement)
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: Charley Braum
To: Steve Byers
Cc: Healey-List
Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2002 6:11 AM
Subject: Re: Is there a DEAD Healey registry?
By your description, you left the frame in the junkyard. Does that not
constitute a major part of the car? And, could it not have been
'resurrected
by some enterprising Healey person?
I know there are VIN numbers stamped on various sections, some hidden,
of all cars made in the USA. Was that the case with the imports as well? I
rebuilt a vehicle years ago that was 'retitled' using the old, hidden
numbers and a new title, and used plenty of used parts gathered from far
and
wide.
I would think that unless you saw the last (numbered) part crushed,
along with the VIN plate, then the car might still exist, at least in some
mystical form. I also seem to recollect that, at least in PA, the scrap
yard
has to account in some fashion for the VIN plates of 'destroyed' cars. Is
that the same in other states?
Just a thought, based on my experience,
Charley Braum
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 10:42:33 -0700
Subject: Nasty Boy Front end tilt forward mold
No Reserve item on e-bay. # 1829916667
$100.00 start
Check it out
Kirk Kvam
62BT7 Tri-Carb
59/60BN7 Nasty-Boy (302Ford)
Both to Tahoe
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 11:26:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: How To Wash Your Healey @ Tahoe
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From JSoderling at aol.com
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 15:34:07 EDT
Subject: Re: How to Wash Your Healey @ Tahoe?
> can highly recommend using 'Dri wash' applied with clean white cotton
> babies nappies.
>
>
Good suggestion. But, OCH, kind of expensive.
Vrooom vrooom,
John
100-Six Erika the Red
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 16:19:48 EDT
Subject: Re: How to Wash Your Healey @ Tahoe?
<< So, what is the collective wisdom of the List as far as the best methods
to
"touch up" wash our Healeys at Tahoe before the car show? "Sponge bathe" the
Healey with a bucket of water from your hotel room? What dry wash products
are available and are they harmful to the paint finnish? Are they effective?
Any other suggestions other than pray for rain? >>
When I attended the Easter Rally in Sydney (an area in a perpetual drought,
it seems, except when they have Healey shows, in which event it pours), I
watched one of the folks who had just driven in from Perty (look it up on a
map if you don't have an idea of relative geography!) who managed to wash his
car using only one bucket of water. It can be done.
My preference however, is to have the car clean and well-waxed before the
trip and then clean it up using Meguiar's "Quick Detail" product which is
excellent when used over a waxed surface. The trick is to use several clean
all-cotten terry towels, changing the surface of the towel frequently to
avoid scraping dirt across the finish.
Griots and Zymol have similarly excellent spray detail products that are seen
on most concours fields to remove whatever road dirt might have collected
while the car was being trailered to the field.
In contrast, I personally don't like "Dri Wash & Guard" except to remove road
tar from the inner fender wells (which it is really, really good at.) if it
takes off tar that quickly, you can just imagine what it is doing to your
finish.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 16:22:42 EDT
Subject: Re: How to Wash Your Healey @ Tahoe?
<<
Chris
PS Use only 'clean' nappies, and remember to remove the baby first...... >>
Not to dispute those who still swear by cotton diapers (or nappies for those
of the Oz/Brit persuasions), but my chats with the specialists at Meguiars,
Zymol, and Griots all are consistent in recommending against diapers, since
they don't absorb the dirt in the same way that terry toweling does.
Cheers
gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 16:25:40 EDT
Subject: Re: How to Wash Your Healey at Tahoe?
<< What I plan to do is enter the car in the show exactly as it is after 3,000
miles of driving across the country. It won't be washed until I return
home.
Well, it IS an option, considering the limitations! >>
Go for it -- there might even be an award for the most dead bugs collected on
the front.
Cheers
gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 16:30:30 -0400
Subject: Re: How to Wash Your Healey @ Tahoe?
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2002 4:22 PM
Subject: Re: How to Wash Your Healey @ Tahoe?
> In a message dated 5/17/02 10:03:03 PM, cd3000@bigpond.net.au writes:
>
> <<
> Chris
> PS Use only 'clean' nappies, and remember to remove the baby first......
>>
>
> Not to dispute those who still swear by cotton diapers (or nappies for
those
> of the Oz/Brit persuasions), but my chats with the specialists at
Meguiars,
> Zymol, and Griots all are consistent in recommending against diapers,
since
> they don't absorb the dirt in the same way that terry toweling does.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Herman <herman at capitalhealeys.org>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 19:37:20 -0400
Subject: Original AH paperback
I also noticed Bill Piggot's book , Austin Healey: Great Cars is due
to be published this month. Anyone know about the one?
Thanks,
Herman
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 18:47:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Original AH paperback
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 17:18:23 -0700
Subject: Prince of Darkness
Lucas denies having invented darkness. But they still claim "sudden, unexpected
darkness"
Lucas: Inventor of the first intermittent wiper.
Lucas: Inventor of the self dimming headlamp.
Lucas Electric products: The original anti-theft devices.
The three position Lucas switch: DIM, FLICKER and OFF.
The other three switch settings: SMOKE, SMOLDER and IGNITE.
If Lucas made guns, wars would not start either.
Did you hear about the Lucas powered torpedo? It sank.
It's not true that Lucas, in 1947, tried to get Parliament to repeal Ohm's Law.
They withdrew their efforts when they met too much resistance.
Did you hear about the guy that peeked into a Land Rover and asked the owner
"How can you tell one switch from another at night, since they all look the
same?" "He replied, it doesn't matter which one you use, nothing happens!"
In the '70s Lucas decided to diversify its product line and began manufacturing
vacuum cleaners.
It was the only product they offered which didn't suck.
Quality Assurance phoned and advised the Engineering guy that they had trouble
with his design shorting out. So he made the wires longer.
Why do the English drink warm beer? Lucas refrigerators!
Alexander Graham Bell invented the Telephone.
Thomas Edison invented the Light Bulb.
Joseph Lucas invented the Short Circuit.
Recommended procedure before taking on a repair of Lucas equipment: check the
position of the stars, kill a chicken and walk three times sun wise around your
car chanting: "Oh mighty Prince of Darkness protect your unworthy servant."
Lucas systems actually uses AC current; it just has a random frequency.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From JOHNHEALEY5 at aol.com
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 20:12:06 EDT
Subject: Healey parts sold
Thanks a lot
John
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 01:43:11 +0100
Subject: Re: Prince of Darkness
Now, I've only had my Healey for a couple of years, and only covered a
few hundred miles, so I'm pretty much a novice when it comes to
reliability.
But, poor old Lucas! Once these stories start, the truth gets left far
behind, I'm sure.
Does anyone have any real evidence as to which particular Lucas bits
tend to go 'phutt'? If it's just the wiring, surely we should blame the
harness quality (was this a Lucas part?). Or blame the AH designer for
being mean with fuses? Does everything with 'Lucas' stamped on it really
fail more often than the rest of the components?
Or is the truth that we are all suffering cheap oriental parts that
*claim* to be Lucas, but are seriously inferior (my rotor arm problems
disappeared the moment I fitted a genuine NOS part). We know that the
first thing to go when cutting costs is contact plating and proper
spring tempering.
We all seem to suffer from SU pumps, but most of us just say "Ha, just
hit it" or "Ha, carry a spare" or "Ha, connect two in parallel"! On that
principle we should smile as we wire in two of everything made by Lucas,
instead of firing a broadside every five minutes!
Now, I'm not trying to start the 'Lucas Defence League', but would just
like to hear what the 'fair' view really is, from those who've clocked
up many more miles and years than I have, and can force themselves to be
objective about the Prince!
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ira Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 19:57:04 -0700
Subject: RE: Prince of Darkness
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Ron Rader
Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2002 5:18 PM
To: undisclosed-recipients:
Subject: Prince of Darkness
The Lucas motto: "Get home before dark."
Lucas denies having invented darkness. But they still claim "sudden,
unexpected darkness"
Lucas: Inventor of the first intermittent wiper.
Lucas: Inventor of the self dimming headlamp.
Lucas Electric products: The original anti-theft devices.
The three position Lucas switch: DIM, FLICKER and OFF.
The other three switch settings: SMOKE, SMOLDER and IGNITE.
If Lucas made guns, wars would not start either.
Did you hear about the Lucas powered torpedo? It sank.
It's not true that Lucas, in 1947, tried to get Parliament to repeal Ohm's
Law.
They withdrew their efforts when they met too much resistance.
Did you hear about the guy that peeked into a Land Rover and asked the owner
"How can you tell one switch from another at night, since they all look the
same?" "He replied, it doesn't matter which one you use, nothing happens!"
In the '70s Lucas decided to diversify its product line and began
manufacturing vacuum cleaners.
It was the only product they offered which didn't suck.
Quality Assurance phoned and advised the Engineering guy that they had
trouble
with his design shorting out. So he made the wires longer.
Why do the English drink warm beer? Lucas refrigerators!
Alexander Graham Bell invented the Telephone.
Thomas Edison invented the Light Bulb.
Joseph Lucas invented the Short Circuit.
Recommended procedure before taking on a repair of Lucas equipment: check
the position of the stars, kill a chicken and walk three times sun wise
around your car chanting: "Oh mighty Prince of Darkness protect your
unworthy servant."
Lucas systems actually uses AC current; it just has a random frequency.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From dht <dht at erols.com>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 17:57:22 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Healey 100
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 05:03:15 -0500
Subject: Don Hambricks BJ7
Don's not going to bring the car but he and his wife are coming to Tahoe...
I on the other hand am getting the Camaro ready for a meeting with the
Bonneville Salt flats....
Don's deal was that he could have two weeks of my time while the Camaro and
the motor were gone... well they are all back now and guess what.... I still
spent 5 weeks on the car and got it to the point that it's a driver.... One
of these days you folks will have the opportunity to see a New Healey.... I
had the opportunity to take this one for it's first ride and it's
spectacular....
This is the exact kind of car I would personally build if I had the
assests.... it's focus was to be a flawless car that Don could get in and
Drive... that he could act like it was NEW from the factory only better...
and he is going to drive it..... He spent untold hours researching parts
... finding all the right bits.... dealing with ALL the distributors trying
to find the best of everything and ordering most of it two and three times
to get the right quality parts.... he knows this car and was EXTREAMLY
active in it's restoration.... and he's not done yet.... we still have to
fit the top and the rear seat squab.... I was simply running out of time...
I just couldn't stand not giving him back a car he could drive in the
sunshine at least....
You guys take care of Don and Barbra at Tahoe... they are great folks...
Keith Turk ( wish I could be there... but lifes a bitch and a fella has to
make choices.... Bonneville Beckons )
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 06:22:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Prince of Darkness
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 06:44:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Don Hambricks BJ7
I do have to let a cat out of the bag thou.... Don and I stood there
yesterday in his garage staring at his new car.... ( okay it was 5 yrs in
the making and I just showed up in the end play ).... we had the greatest
conversation... and it was about the Dreaded topic of money... We had
agreed on a price per hour... and it was fair for someone who is a trained
mechanic... which I guess I'm semi qualified... it was much better then a
shop rate.... But I had a problem... I had WAY to many hours in the car
that I simply couldn't charge him for.... why should he pay for my
ignorace? (chrome door trim).... the other side of it.... is am I supposed
to pay with my time for working on something that is just frustrating....
Head lights that are completely brand new but don't fit together....
Here is what we decided.... and it was a situation that I wish we could
hear more like it.... I gave him a range of hours and let him pick....
between 50 and 165hrs.... which is what I actually had in the car.... and
he simply refused... he would have been happy to pay for either.... so I
told him 80 hrs.... which allowed for my ignorace and his willingness to
take care of my time.... It was just really cool.... I know it doesn't
sound very professional and doesn't allow room for folks who do this for a
living to eat.... and if your a mechanic for a living your time is your
stock in trade... But it was a great deal for him and me.... I got to work
on one of the finest BJ7's in the country and he got my ability to take the
puzzle and put it back together with the First creedo in mechanic'in....
First do no harm!!!
I did show him my hands yesterday with the single scrape..... it's always
been my opinion that you NEVER hire a mechanic that has ripped up hands....
if he can't take care of his hands when he is working with a wrench... what
would make you think he can take care of your car?
Just a heck of a nice car and a super guy....
Keith.... ( If you want to see my wrenching ability... go to the motor
section of this website.... http://downtown.ala.net/~kturk ) ( Oh and I
don't work for other people normally.... a project like this comes by once
or twice in a life time.. )
----------
> From: Dean <dht@erols.com>
> To: Keith Turk <kturk@ala.net>; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Don Hambricks BJ7
> Date: Sunday, May 19, 2002 6:14 AM
>
> Keith it was nice getting to know you , you brought some good stuff to
the
> list. Would love to meet you in person someday.
>
> Dean
>
>
>
>
>
> I can't thank you enough for the help putting Don's car together... I
> > kinda got it semi finished... meaning I left a bunch of work on it to
be
> > done... But I have a dream to pursue....and through our association we
> have
> > a new list member...( okay Don if you have said anything I've missed it
)
> > albeit a quiet one. ...
> >
> > Don's not going to bring the car but he and his wife are coming to
> Tahoe...
> > I on the other hand am getting the Camaro ready for a meeting with the
> > Bonneville Salt flats....
> >
> > Don's deal was that he could have two weeks of my time while the Camaro
> and
> > the motor were gone... well they are all back now and guess what.... I
> still
> > spent 5 weeks on the car and got it to the point that it's a driver....
> One
> > of these days you folks will have the opportunity to see a New
Healey....
> I
> > had the opportunity to take this one for it's first ride and it's
> > spectacular....
> >
> > This is the exact kind of car I would personally build if I had the
> > assests.... it's focus was to be a flawless car that Don could get in
and
> > Drive... that he could act like it was NEW from the factory only
better...
> > and he is going to drive it..... He spent untold hours researching
parts
> > ... finding all the right bits.... dealing with ALL the distributors
> trying
> > to find the best of everything and ordering most of it two and three
times
> > to get the right quality parts.... he knows this car and was EXTREAMLY
> > active in it's restoration.... and he's not done yet.... we still have
to
> > fit the top and the rear seat squab.... I was simply running out of
> time...
> > I just couldn't stand not giving him back a car he could drive in the
> > sunshine at least....
> >
> > You guys take care of Don and Barbra at Tahoe... they are great
folks...
> >
> > Keith Turk ( wish I could be there... but lifes a bitch and a fella has
to
> > make choices.... Bonneville Beckons )
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 09:19:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Prince of Darkness
Alan Cross wrote:
> > Now, I'm not trying to start the 'Lucas Defence League', but would just
> > like to hear what the 'fair' view really is, from those who've clocked
> > up many more miles and years than I have, and can force themselves to
be
> > objective about the Prince!
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 09:49:11 -0400
Subject: Re: How to Wash Your Healey @ Tahoe?
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan@btopenworld.com>
To: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>; <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2002 3:52 AM
Subject: RE: How to Wash Your Healey @ Tahoe?
> I watch this thread with some detachment and from a great
> distance. However............
> If any of you know anyone in the Airline Supply business, tap him
> for a case of "face towels". These are the small cotton terry
> cloth towels that reputable airlines give out to their customers
> after meals and on request. They are made in China by the
> million, or billion perhaps. (We used to send a forty foot
> container into British Airways every two weeks or so). They cost
> nothing (appreciable) and do the job to perfection. And they're
> washable.
>
> Simon Lachlan.
> Comfort House
> Bradninch
> Devon
> EX5 4NN.
> 01392-882248
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Healeyolic
> Sent: 18 May 2002 21:31
> To: Editorgary@aol.com
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: How to Wash Your Healey @ Tahoe?
>
> If you can find cotton diapers, good luck. Pampers, Huggies, etc.
> use a very
> absorbant liner that, thankfully, blots up a tremendous amount of
> my
> grandson's liquid. I haven't seen cotton diapers since my kids
> were babies
> 30+ years ago ald all I remember that with cotton, more leaked
> than was
> held.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2002 4:22 PM
> Subject: Re: How to Wash Your Healey @ Tahoe?
>
>
> > In a message dated 5/17/02 10:03:03 PM, cd3000@bigpond.net.au
> writes:
> >
> > <<
> > Chris
> > PS Use only 'clean' nappies, and remember to remove the baby
> first......
> >>
> >
> > Not to dispute those who still swear by cotton diapers (or
> nappies for
> those
> > of the Oz/Brit persuasions), but my chats with the specialists
> at
> Meguiars,
> > Zymol, and Griots all are consistent in recommending against
> diapers,
> since
> > they don't absorb the dirt in the same way that terry toweling
> does.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 10:32:17 -0400
Subject: RE: Prince of Darkness
The history of this "bad rap" is very interesting.
In the '50s and '60s, when British cars were outselling any other
country's vehicles in the export market, U.S. vehicles on the other hand
were built almost exclusively for the "home" market, and still are.
This home market included a fairly large percentage of vehicles sold
into Canada and the North East, which is one of only a very small number
of areas of the world where salt is used in huge volumes to melt ice
during the winter months.
British cars however were sold all over the world and only very small
percentages were destined for the "salt" areas.
When connectors are to be used in an environment of a corrosive slush it
is necessary to go to great lengths and expense to ensure that they are
completely protected and/or are made of corrosion resistant materials.
Lucas used brass connectors almost exclusively in their products and,
back then, designed them in such a way that they were open to the
atmosphere and could dry readily. This works very well until you add
salt and to a lesser degree pollution to the equation.
Given that Canada and the North East were a relatively tiny part of
their business I believe that Lucas decided that it was not worth
redesigning their entire product line to satisfy the demands of a small
minority of their customers and probably made a conscious decision to
"let them rot in hell" so to speak.
So IMHO the "bad rap" is well deserved but somewhat localized.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jerry Wall
Sent: 19-May-02 7:22 AM
To: alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Prince of Darkness
in my opinion, it's a bad rap, however, i love the sayings and stories.
since i put my bn6 back on the road in '92, the only electrical failures
have been twice from the allison/crane electronic ignition. needless to
say, several years ago, i converted back to genuine lucas points and
condenser.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 17:41:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Prince of Darkness
When I removed the original 35-year old wiring harness from my Healey, it was
scary the shape it was in --- but it never caused me a problem.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Rich C
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2002 6:19 AM
Subject: Re: Prince of Darkness
I can honestly say that in all my years working on and driving Healeys,
I've
never had an electrical problem that could be blamed on Lucas products.
I have however, seen many stupid add on "improvements" and jury rigged
wiring for radios, driving lamps and other accessories that have been added
to the cars after the fact which subsequently caused an electrical short,
burned out harnesses, and so on.
Also I think it's probably rather wishful thinking that a 45 year old
harness might not have worn or frayed areas where passing through a harness
clip, etc....again not to be blamed on Lucas.
The Price has served me well!
Rich Chrysler
Alan Cross wrote:
> > Now, I'm not trying to start the 'Lucas Defence League', but would
just
> > like to hear what the 'fair' view really is, from those who've clocked
> > up many more miles and years than I have, and can force themselves to
be
> > objective about the Prince!
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 11:14:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Prince of Darkness
Charley Braum
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Cory LeBlanc" <cleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 10:28:33 -0500
Subject: Re: 100 m paint and problems - Fitting the 100-M Airbox
This is a reply message to Patrick's question on how to shape a 100-4 frame
to fit the 100-M cold air box. Having a cold air box on my 100-M, this
humbled and tortured person questions why anybody would want to inflict this
painful contraption on themselves.
Hi Patrick:
Let me first make certain that we are on the same subject. The bracket
attaching the front aluminum shroud to the chassis is the part I am
describing. It is specially designed for the 100-M's as the cold air box
takes up extra space around the engine compartment. To accommodate this
space requirement, the frame support is bent outward, away from the engine,
and a this special bracket is fitted.
Drawing a straight line centered down the bracket, the flat parts are 2.5,
1.5 and 1.25 inches. The longest to smallest lengths are presented from the
top of the car to downward. Restated in different terms, from the highest
part to the lowest point on the vehicle. The 2.5 inch edge attaches the
aluminum front shroud, the 1.5 inch is next, and the 1.25 inch flat part
attaches to the steel frame. The maximum width of the bracket is 6.25 inches
wide and the bracket is square with a triangle starting after a 6.25 by 2.5
inch square. If this leaves question, I offer to draw a PowerPoint slide and
either email it to you or mail the printout. If you are in a hurry call my
cell phone number and I will draw it out via phone with you. The steel
appears to be between 14 and 16 gauge.
>From a measurements standpoint, if you are bending the frame, I recommend
moving the top part of the upright frame piece to about 3 inches aside.
After review of my engine compartment, you would want to fit the engine with
the head, manifold and cold air box and then bend the frame. This is
impossible to do. It is nearly impossible to fit the cold air box with the
engine in place. (This is why so few original cold air boxes remain)
So what is one to do when the original bend is lost? I would recommend
taking the frame member and bending it back at least 3 inches. Going over 3
inches would be done on an experimental basis. Then ignore the measurements
and make one that fits the bend in the frame.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
----- Original Message -----
From: "patrick harris" <rotaryman@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Cory LeBlanc" <cleblanc@midsouth.rr.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2002 12:25 AM
Subject: Re: 100 m paint and problems
> thank you
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Cory LeBlanc" <cleblanc@midsouth.rr.com>
> To: "patrick harris" <rotaryman@worldnet.att.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 4:28 PM
> Subject: Re: 100 m paint and problems
>
>
> > Hi Patrick:
> >
> > I should have the measurement by the end of this weekend.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "patrick harris" <rotaryman@worldnet.att.net>
> > To: "Cory LeBlanc" <cleblanc@midsouth.rr.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 12:46 AM
> > Subject: Re: 100 m paint and problems
> >
> >
> > > yes the measurement would be appreciated my original piece had a
slight
> > bend
> > > away from the brace at an angle and then went flat and I need to know
> what
> > > the flat portion would be . Thank you
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 11:29:05 -0400
Subject: OIl filters
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Cory LeBlanc" <cleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 10:47:05 -0500
Subject: 100-4 Hot Water Heater Knob
I have a spare knob for the hexagonal hot water valve that is fitted to the
100-4 cylinder head. Two different shape heater shut off valves are made for
the 100-4. this knob is for the hexagonal valve body, not the round valve
body.
Please reply off list if you need this knob, sorry I only have one left. I
prefer to give this knob to a serious restoration project.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 09:32:40 -0700
Subject: Re: Prince of Darkness
The Lucas motto: "Get home before dark."
And then there is:
Smoke
A sheet of paper crossed my desk the other day and as I
read it, realization of a Basic
Truth came over me. So simple! So obvious we couldn't see
it! John Kuivinen, Chairman of
the Palomar Repeater Committee, an amateur radio group, has
discovered what really
makes integrated circuits work. He says that smoke is the
thing that makes IC's work
because every time you let the smoke out of an IC it stops
working. He claims to have
verified this through testing. I was flabbergasted.
Of course! Smoke makes all things electrical work.
Remember the last time the
smoke escaped from your Lucas voltage regulator? Didn't it
quit working? I sat and smiled
like an idiot as more of the truth dawned. It's the wiring
harness that carries smoke from
one device to another in your Mini, and when the harness
springs a leak, it lets the smoke
out of everything all at once and then nothing works. The
starter motor requires large
quantities of smoke to operate properly, that's why the wire
going to it is so big.
Feeling very smug, I continued to expand my hypothesis.
Why are Lucas electrics
more likely to leak smoke than, say, Bosch? Hmmm. Aha!
Lucas is British. Things British
always leak! British convertible tops leak water. British
engines leak oil. British displacer
units leak hydroelastic fluid. British governments leak
defense secrets. So naturally, British
electrics leak more smoke!
Or:
4. Law of Non-Functional Attributes
All British Sports Cars, regardless of condition or age,
shall always have at least one
system or sub-system of components which is entirely
non-functional, and cannot be
repaired except on a semi-permanent or semi-functional
basis.
This is also known as the famous Lucas Electrics Law.
Jokes aside, Lucas parts have always seemed to me to be of
decent quality.
Cheers,
Peter
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 09:35:13 -0700
Subject: The Laws
The Laws for British Sports Cars
Most of us are familiar with the physical laws thought up
by Isaac Newton, the guy
who invented gravity. He said things like "For every action
there is an equal and opposite
reaction" and "If you sit under a tree long enough, an apple
will eventually fall on your head,
provided you are sitting under an apple tree."
Isaac was considered very intelligent and was eventually
responsible for the invention
of calculus, which was a new kind of math for people who
thought math wasn't already hard
enough. He is also the reason why, even today, people who
work in apple orchards often
wear large, protective hats.
Newton's Laws made sense for hundreds of years, and
everybody believed them.
They believed them right up until the time when British
sports cars were invented, when it
was suddenly realized that a whole new bunch of laws was
going to be needed. Many
distinguished scientists have worked their entire lives to
try and figure out why British autos
never seem to obey any scientific laws known to man.
These eminent scientists, with names like Morris, Healey,
Leyland, Mowog, and
Murphy, shook the scientific community when they published
their new theory of
mechanical behavior called "The Laws for British Sports
Cars." Many people are not familiar
with the five major laws, so they are listed below with a
brief explanation of each.
1. Law of Peculiar Random Nomenclature
The name of a British Sports Car shall consist primarily of
letters and numbers, with said
letters and numbers chosen in random fashion so that the
resultant vehicle name is
wholly devoid of meaning.
This law explains why British cars always have spectacularly
bad names like 'XKE' or worse
yet, 'MGBGT'.
2. Law of Cryptic Instruction
Any book, manual, pamphlet, or text dealing with the
maintenance, repair, or restoration
of a British Sports Car shall be written so that at least
every fourth word will be unknown
to the average reader. In the event that any portion of the
text is understandable, the
information contained therein shall be incorrect.
Most people are familiar with this law. Here is an excerpt
from page 132 of the MGA shop
manual: "Before rebushing the lower grunnion banjos, you
must remove the bonnet facia
and undo the A-arm nut with a #3 spanner." All attempts to
publish an English language
version of this manual have failed.
3. Love of Hardship Law
The more a British Sports Car malfunctions, breaks, and/or
falls apart, the more
endearing it becomes to the owner.
You buy a British Sports Car. You have had it a year and a
half, and have replaced every
item on the car at least twice. When the engine is started
it sounds as if someone has
thrown a handful of ball bearings into a blender. But when
someone offers to buy it, you
are offended because "It's like part of the family, and
besides, it's so much fun to drive."
British Sports Car owners often stare into space and smile a
lot. This is referred to as the
"Foolish Person Syndrome."
4. Law of Non-Functional Attributes
All British Sports Cars, regardless of condition or age,
shall always have at least one
system or sub-system of components which is entirely
non-functional, and cannot be
repaired except on a semi-permanent or semi-functional
basis.
This is also known as the famous Lucas Electrics Law.
5. Recently Discovered Component Failure Law
Any component of a British Sports Car which is entirely
unknown to the owner shall
function perfectly, until such time that the owner becomes
aware of the component's
existence, when it shall instantly fail.
Case in point: I have owned a rather natty MGB for six
years. I never knew there was such
a thing as a 'Gulp Valve' until I saw new ones offered for
sale by Moss Motors. The next day,
driving my MGB to work, the Gulp Valve fell off the motor
and was run over by a truck.
I do not know what the Gulp Valve gulps, nor do I
particularly care to know, since it sounds
messy and dangerous. But I figured I would buy a new Gulp
Valve and install it myself. One
look at the shop manual and I decided to have somebody else
install it (see Law of Cryptic
Instructions, above). While I'm driving the car over to the
local repair establishment, I notice
that the MGB is performing just as well as it ever did and
that the loss of the mysterious
Gulp Valve has not had any effect on its behavior. I figure
this is due to the Non-functional
Attribute Law, which means that the Gulp Valve probably
wasn't gulping anything anyway,
so I decided not to replace it after all. Three days later
the engine had no more oil in it and
promptly seized into a solid mass of metal. The tow truck
operator, being ignorant of the
Love of Hardship Law, offered to take the car off my hands
for $100.00. I just smiled.
By Don Hayward, Waterville, OH, from Moss Motors' Summer
1985 Newsletter.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete at catey.com>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 19:28:29 +0200
Subject: When first roll up windows in a Healey ?
Does anyone on the list know when the first roll-up window was installed on
a Healey?
My Coupe 100 (converted in 54) and now under full restoration seems to have
had them as of the beginning.
Thanks,
Bruno Verstraete
BJ8
BN1 Coupe (DIeteren)
bruno.verstraete@catey.com <mailto:bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 11:46:46 +0000
Subject: Re: How to Wash Your Healey @ Tahoe?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 14:58:09 -0400
Subject: Re: How to Wash Your Healey @ Tahoe?
Unless they are 'real young men', and possibly 'real old men'!!
Regards,
Charley Braum
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 14:52:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Prince of Darkness
Like others who have responded, I have owned Lucas equipped cars since
the 60's, and have seldom been let down. A little inspection now and
again, and a little maintenance' never hurt.
John Slade
Manotick, ON
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 16:38:01 -0400
Subject: Part Wanted
Thanks
Tom
tfelts@prodigy.net
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from Burlington Vt. to Rt 495/Rt2 area (I know I drove 4 hours through the
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 16:49:27 -0400
Subject: Any signs on life on the east coast?
Where area all of you? Watching the RedSox - the Celts? Prepping for Lake
Tahoe?
Today was clear, crisp, cool (low 60's) - and I took my car out for a drive
around Rt 495, Rt 2, to NH and back. Oil pressure stayed at about 50+lbs -
temp never went above 164 - and in 2 hours and 80+ miles didn't see a
single - not a single - brit car of any sort. Not an MG, not a sprite, not
a morris, not a healey - nada - nil - nothing!!!! What gives!
Roger Bowker
obviously driving the last remaining BT7 in New England...
Harvard, Ma
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 16:58:27 -0400
Subject: Another Part Needed
Thanks
Tom
tfelts@prodigy.net
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 18:00:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Another Part Needed
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeygal at cs.com
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 19:11:36 EDT
Subject: Re: Any signs on life on the east coast?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From N0040 at aol.com
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 19:21:31 EDT
Subject: Oh! What have I done?
In an attempt to find out why my tachometer wasn't operating, I incorrectly
reconnected a white wire (from SW) on the coil, onto a spade terminal on CB
side of the coil. The CB side already has the White-Black wire that goes to
the spade terminal on the outside of the distributor.
When I tried to restart the engine (which had run 5 minutes before), it
wouldn't start.
I rechecked my wiring and found my mistake and put the white back on SW.
It will no longer start.
The two major fuses are still good.
Have I fried the coil ? the condensor? welded the points shut?
Would I have damaged the voltage regulator ?
Help please....
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 20:44:29 -0400
Subject: Another BJ8 Dash Question
Is there some adjustment that I can do to make the button flush with the
surrounding lock housing? Does this make sense?
Ryan
BJ7 (BJ8 dash)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From N5572B at aol.com
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 22:14:22 EDT
Subject: Prince of Darkness and other thoughts
If Britannia rules the waves, why can't they build a car that will go through
a puddle?
Cheers,
Dave
59 BT 7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 05:31:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Oh! What have I done?
When you tried to start the car, you connected the battery directly to ground
through the ignition switch, the white wire, and the points. As soon as the
points closed, you had a dead short. Neither the voltage regulator nor the
coil should have been affected.
My bet is, you damaged the points or the distributor primary wire. If it's
the white wire that's damaged, that should be obvious from the melted
insulation. I'm assuming the engine cranks when you try to start it. Does
your ignition warning light come on when you turn the ignition switch to ON
(not START)?, and does it go off when you turn the ignition switch off? If
so, the switch should be O.K.
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: N0040@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2002 4:21 PM
Subject: Oh! What have I done?
Dear LIsters,
In an attempt to find out why my tachometer wasn't operating, I incorrectly
reconnected a white wire (from SW) on the coil, onto a spade terminal on CB
side of the coil. The CB side already has the White-Black wire that goes to
the spade terminal on the outside of the distributor.
When I tried to restart the engine (which had run 5 minutes before), it
wouldn't start.
I rechecked my wiring and found my mistake and put the white back on SW.
It will no longer start.
The two major fuses are still good.
Have I fried the coil ? the condensor? welded the points
shut?
Would I have damaged the voltage regulator ?
Help please....
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 22:43:42 EDT
Subject: Taos Garage
Best- -Michael Oritt
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 22:53:59 -0400
Subject: RE: Oh! What have I done?
Probably not too serious. As the ignition circuit is not fused it is
most likely that you fried the small braided wire that runs from the
distributor external connector to the contact breaker post. This is s
special wire to allow for movement for the c.b. plate when the vacuum
advanceoperates so you should buy the correct part to replace it.
The replacement part is part # 57H5478, officially named "terminal and
lead" I believe.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of N0040@aol.com
Sent: 19-May-02 7:22 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Oh! What have I done?
Dear LIsters,
In an attempt to find out why my tachometer wasn't operating, I
incorrectly
reconnected a white wire (from SW) on the coil, onto a spade terminal on
CB
side of the coil. The CB side already has the White-Black wire that goes
to
the spade terminal on the outside of the distributor.
When I tried to restart the engine (which had run 5 minutes before), it
wouldn't start.
I rechecked my wiring and found my mistake and put the white back on SW.
It will no longer start.
The two major fuses are still good.
Have I fried the coil ? the condensor? welded the points
shut?
Would I have damaged the voltage regulator ?
Help please....
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 06:48:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Don Hambricks BJ7
Here is what I do know thou.... in the name of making this thing right....
in just the six weeks the car was in my shop... we used all the Named
suppliers I have known in 25 yrs of playing with Healeys.... EVERYONE of
them... and each has their own merit....
I simply won't bad mouth any of them as I don't think there is any money to
be made there.... but mostly because each has their own merit... thou one's
quality might suffer... they seem to have all or most the bits and
pieces... Some of them bring a warmer atmosphere to the table and great
tech advice... which makes up for the lack of a glossy catalog..... it's
all necessary... and honestly unless your dealing with New Old Stock
parts.... quality parts is always going to be a question.
Keith
----------
> From: Scheuble, Fred <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
> To: 'Keith Turk' <kturk@ala.net>; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: Don Hambricks BJ7
> Date: Monday, May 20, 2002 6:38 AM
>
> how about a list of the distributors and for what parts...
>
>
> Fred
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Keith Turk [mailto:kturk@ala.net]
> Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2002 6:03 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Don Hambricks BJ7
>
>
> Guys I can't thank you enough for the help putting Don's car together...
I
> kinda got it semi finished... meaning I left a bunch of work on it to be
> done... But I have a dream to pursue....and through our association we
have
> a new list member...( okay Don if you have said anything I've missed it )
> albeit a quiet one. ...
>
> Don's not going to bring the car but he and his wife are coming to
Tahoe...
> I on the other hand am getting the Camaro ready for a meeting with the
> Bonneville Salt flats....
>
> Don's deal was that he could have two weeks of my time while the Camaro
and
> the motor were gone... well they are all back now and guess what.... I
still
> spent 5 weeks on the car and got it to the point that it's a driver....
One
> of these days you folks will have the opportunity to see a New Healey....
I
> had the opportunity to take this one for it's first ride and it's
> spectacular....
>
> This is the exact kind of car I would personally build if I had the
> assests.... it's focus was to be a flawless car that Don could get in and
> Drive... that he could act like it was NEW from the factory only
better...
> and he is going to drive it..... He spent untold hours researching parts
> ... finding all the right bits.... dealing with ALL the distributors
trying
> to find the best of everything and ordering most of it two and three
times
> to get the right quality parts.... he knows this car and was EXTREAMLY
> active in it's restoration.... and he's not done yet.... we still have to
> fit the top and the rear seat squab.... I was simply running out of
time...
> I just couldn't stand not giving him back a car he could drive in the
> sunshine at least....
>
> You guys take care of Don and Barbra at Tahoe... they are great folks...
>
> Keith Turk ( wish I could be there... but lifes a bitch and a fella has
to
> make choices.... Bonneville Beckons )
>
> .
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 06:52:11 -0500
Subject: O/D Throttle switch
Here is my question.. there are two wires attached to it and quite honestly
I simply ran out of time to try this..... If I reverse them will the
throttle switch reverse to the correct operation?
Keith Turk
Austin Healey 100, Bugeye, Box sprites, Bonneville Camaro ( Land Speed
Racer)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 05:52:12 -0700
Subject: Re: O/D Throttle switch
No.
The switch is a Single Pole Single Throw (SPST) switch providing an
alternate path for current to the O/D solenoid. On a schematic it would
look (when open) sorta like:
__/ __
Reversing the wires would make no difference.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2002 4:52 AM
Subject: O/D Throttle switch
> guys.... I was test driving Don's car... ( damn I love these 6 cylinder
> cars ) and Had a problem with the Throttle switch.... when I turned the
> O/D off it only worked when I released the throttle rather then when I
> depressed it as it should....
>
> Here is my question.. there are two wires attached to it and quite honestly
> I simply ran out of time to try this..... If I reverse them will the
> throttle switch reverse to the correct operation?
>
> Keith Turk
> Austin Healey 100, Bugeye, Box sprites, Bonneville Camaro ( Land Speed
> Racer)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 10:12:04 -0400
Subject: RE: O/D Throttle switch
The throttle switch that you are working on consists of a set of points
operated by a cam. The cam can be set up so the points are normally open
(wrong) or normally closed (correct) when the throttle is closed.
To get things right take the wires off the switch and hook up some kind
of continuity tester across the switch connections.
Loosen the clamp on the operating arm.
Gently, using a slotted screwdriver, turn the shaft until you have
continuity (the points are closed). Don't force anything. The shaft
should turn easily or if released entirely from the arm, will adopt the
"points closed" position.
You will then find that if you turn the shaft counterclockwise, as would
be achieved by opening the throttle, the continuity will be broken i.e.
the points open.
The trick is then to turn the shaft clockwise until the points close,
then a little more to produce the illusive 1/5th throttle opening called
for in the WS manual.
BTW if anyone has a spare throttle switch I could use one for my BJ8 I
have completely run out of good used ones.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Keith Turk
Sent: 19-May-02 7:52 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: O/D Throttle switch
guys.... I was test driving Don's car... ( damn I love these 6 cylinder
cars ) and Had a problem with the Throttle switch.... when I turned the
O/D off it only worked when I released the throttle rather then when I
depressed it as it should....
Here is my question.. there are two wires attached to it and quite
honestly
I simply ran out of time to try this..... If I reverse them will the
throttle switch reverse to the correct operation?
Keith Turk
Austin Healey 100, Bugeye, Box sprites, Bonneville Camaro ( Land Speed
Racer)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 09:11:55 -0500
Subject: Re: O/D Throttle switch
Keith
----------
> From: Michael Salter <magicare@rogers.com>
> To: 'Keith Turk' <kturk@ala.net>; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: O/D Throttle switch
> Date: Monday, May 20, 2002 9:12 AM
>
> Hi Keith,
>
> The throttle switch that you are working on consists of a set of points
> operated by a cam. The cam can be set up so the points are normally open
> (wrong) or normally closed (correct) when the throttle is closed.
> To get things right take the wires off the switch and hook up some kind
> of continuity tester across the switch connections.
> Loosen the clamp on the operating arm.
> Gently, using a slotted screwdriver, turn the shaft until you have
> continuity (the points are closed). Don't force anything. The shaft
> should turn easily or if released entirely from the arm, will adopt the
> "points closed" position.
> You will then find that if you turn the shaft counterclockwise, as would
> be achieved by opening the throttle, the continuity will be broken i.e.
> the points open.
> The trick is then to turn the shaft clockwise until the points close,
> then a little more to produce the illusive 1/5th throttle opening called
> for in the WS manual.
>
> BTW if anyone has a spare throttle switch I could use one for my BJ8 I
> have completely run out of good used ones.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com/
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Keith Turk
> Sent: 19-May-02 7:52 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: O/D Throttle switch
>
> guys.... I was test driving Don's car... ( damn I love these 6 cylinder
> cars ) and Had a problem with the Throttle switch.... when I turned the
> O/D off it only worked when I released the throttle rather then when I
> depressed it as it should....
>
> Here is my question.. there are two wires attached to it and quite
> honestly
> I simply ran out of time to try this..... If I reverse them will the
> throttle switch reverse to the correct operation?
>
> Keith Turk
> Austin Healey 100, Bugeye, Box sprites, Bonneville Camaro ( Land Speed
> Racer)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 10:24:46 -0400
Subject: Re: O/D Throttle switch
BUT, your symptoms indicate that the throttle switch is out of adjustment.
Follow the shop manual for the adjustment, and you'll be ok.
Good Luck, and congratulations on what seems to be a job well done.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2002 8:52 AM
Subject: Re: O/D Throttle switch
> Keith,
>
>
> No.
>
> The switch is a Single Pole Single Throw (SPST) switch providing an
> alternate path for current to the O/D solenoid. On a schematic it would
> look (when open) sorta like:
>
> __/ __
>
> Reversing the wires would make no difference.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 10:25:15 EDT
Subject: Re: O/D Throttle switch
I am taking a minute to praise you for 1. you knowledge. 2. your willingness
to take time to respond to these questions. 3. your ability to explain these
comlpicated matters in a way that is simple, to the point, easy to understand
for those of us that are mechanically challenged. 4. do it in such a way that
is not degrading, but supportive. So, for this one lurker, thanks and I hope
to meet you at Tahoe.
Richard
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 07:36:39 -0700
Subject: Centershift Transmission Tunnel Refurbishment
I had to fill this area in with fiberglass to repair some damage and it is now
not altogether clear what needs to be cut out and what stays.
Boring questions I know but the devil is in the details.
Thanks all!
Regards,
Matt Wilson
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Nick G." <nickeg at northridge.com>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 11:05:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Paint/Powdercoat questions
http://home.light.att.net/_pwp_light_/~fiedlerh/enginecolor.htm
Nick
1961 Austin-Healey 3000
Kenny Johnson wrote:
>
> I have a question regarding paint colors.
>
> Does anyone have experience with a color named "Poncho Blue"
> (PMB-3072)? I am getting ready to powdercoat my chassis next week. This
> was the color the powdercoating company came up with as a match to Healey
> Blue.
>
> A co-worker thought Poncho Blue may be a Pontiac color.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 15:19:49 +0000
Subject: Re: The Laws
- Chinese Proverb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 12:04:31 -0400
Subject: Overdrive dashboard switch
Andy
BJ8/42226
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 12:14:59 -0400
Subject: Re: O/D Throttle switch
I am taking a minute to praise you for 1. you knowledge. 2. your
willingness
to take time to respond to these questions. 3. your ability to explain
these
comlpicated matters in a way that is simple, to the point, easy to
understand
for those of us that are mechanically challenged. 4. do it in such a way
that
is not degrading, but supportive.<
A couple of other names also deserve our recognition; Steve Byers and Alan
Seigrist among others.
Thanks Guys,
Scot
'66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 11:46:16 -0500
Subject: Bonneville (NO LBC... )
Here's the deal.... I've always been a died in the wool Healey geek ..
when I was sitting there as a 21 yr old kid reading Donald Healey's
book.... I damn near dog eared the pages about running 200mph on the salt
and getting in the Bonneville 200mph club..( DMH was the 18-21st
member...the records are about that Day.... and there were 4 folks that got
in that day).. somehow that caught my attention... I was just flat assed
fascinated.... I never really dreamed I'd have the opportunity or ability
to do that.
So many years later....in my early thirty's I guess I'm sitting at a
Healey Christmas party in Atlanta... with Len Thomas, John May, and Tom and
Jama Long.. and we are running our mouths.... I just brought up the
question... Geez I wonder what it took to really go 200mph in a Healey....
( okay... the Hook is set at this Point) Cept I got me this little
problem.... I'm on my way to Germany and the Gulf as an instructor pilot in
the Apache.... YUCK.... put the dream on Hold and live somewhere else for 3
yrs.... but trust me... the topic of conversation lasted for Months in the
Desert with my best friend and racing partner Brad Johnson.
In 93 when I got home.... Len brought me a Healey to build a car out of
but I had NO clue about how to do this.... so in 95 I got ahold of a brand
new organization called the East Coast timing association and went and ran
a 150mph El camino I had... it only ran 121mph in a mile but I was setting
the HOOK....
Everyone there said you have to Go to Bonneville to really learn what it
takes to do this.... but I was in the Army and about to retire and didn't
have the extra time to that.... So it was 98 when I finally got the
opportunity to go... a really significant event happened in my life....
Tom Long was swimming with his Children and broke his neck.... he became an
instant quadriplegic.... and Quite frankly the whole thing was so stunning
to me that I decided right there and then that I was going to live this
dream One way or the other.... PERIOD... money's always going to be
tight.... but... we have two choices... we can talk about it or we can do
it...
All that having been said I bought this Camaro I'm running at Bonneville
for 800 bucks.... yep... cheap car but it had been to the salt.... and was
inspected... complete with it's white spoked wheels.... it wasn't much of a
looker... but it was slow.... sooooo there ya go... I'm off to the
races.... I'd snatched the motor and trans from the El Camino when I sold
it.... simply bolted it into the Camaro and my son and I took it up to
Maxton North Carolina and promptly blew it up....but we ran 138mph.... and
had a ball... Rebuilt the Motor and I think the next meet was when Steve
Byers showed up with his lovely wife... again a Nice time was had by all
and we ran 147 or something.... Then we built another 350 and ran 167mph at
Maxton....
Okay moving right along... my first year on the salt was a blast and a
disaster.... broke Two motors...( swore I'd never change another on the
salt )( until next time) Best speed was 200mph on the tach....
Back to racing at Maxton.... somewhere along the way I had the opportunity
to drive Paul Chism's Jaguar....( see foot note ) and ran 200.768mph on the
Mile there.... and was subsequently made the president of the East Coast
Two Club.... been a great time ... But my partner wasn't a member of it yet
and the Camaro had only run 183 so far.... but we stuck in another motor
and added a bit of Nitrous Oxide.... okay ALOT of Nitrous... and he ran
200.445 in the car at Maxton to get into the Two Club there.....
I took the car out to California and ran Muroc Dry lake ( Edwards AFB ) and
ran 205.758 on a 171mph record..... and got into the Muroc Two Club....
Okay now to be truly informed... there are 4 two hundred mile per hour
clubs in the US.... Bonneville, Muroc, El mirage, and the ECTA.... doing a
little math here we can realize I'm in Two of them.... well somewhere along
the way I decided to slow down and learn how to be a Racer... it's new to
me.... so to learn as well as I could or to say I've got the Basic's down
pat.... I decided I needed to get the Camaro in All 4 of them.... it's only
been done once by a good friend of mine and I think it's a really cool
achievement.... he is a Racer.... ( smiling going on here by the way....
like Duhhh ) The Bonneville Two Club and El Mirage are next on my list....
I've raced at Bonneville in 99... twice in 2000... and last year... left 6
motors on the salt.... and had a best speed of 228mph and change on a
230mph record... I'm VERY VERY close.... but keep in mind you have to do
this twice... a record qualifying run and a return run and the average of
the two has to be OVER the record and then the car has to be tech'ed as
legal..... which it is....
I should say something about the Magazine coverage at this point and I'll
call this LONG e-mail a done deal...... In Sept 2000 Will Handzel wrote a 3
page feature article on the car in Hot Rod Magazine.... it's also been seen
in Chevy High, Popular Hot Rodding, Southern Rodder and I've been talked
about in Rod & Custom and next month they are doing another Article in
Grassroots motorsports.
what I wanted out of this changes everyday.... I really want to Join Donald
Healey in the Bonneville Two Club... that is very important in my life....
But I have worked so hard at that and spent way to much money trying to do
that that I actually have taken some of the fun out of the sport by my
intensity towards that goal.... Last year Dave Frieburger ( editor of Hot
Rod and a good friend ) was with us in the pits to write an article about
me getting in the two club.... it wasn't happening and we weren't having
fun.... out there swapping out our best engine for the one that had run
228..... it was a shot at making it happen... but it was enormous work and
just not alot of fun.....( we blew it up tooo ).... so I've backed off a
bit and decided to ENJOY the hell out of what I'm doing rather then
pressure myself so hard..... Taking on Don's BJ7 was a true joy to me. (
and yes financially it took some of the pressure off ) But most
importantly it got me back to the quality of Life that should always be the
First issue....
I need to say one more thing about Bonneville.... we aren't sponsored
racers... thou a few guys like me get some free parts as long as we carry
the stickers on the car...... We Don't win Money on the Bonneville Salt
Flats or at Maxton... the only thing we have the ability to win is the
respect of our peers.... and if you can manage to get that your a real
winner in Life...... Guess what.... I have that now when I go and race....
I have the respect of my peers without getting in the Two club..... so Now
I'm just going to relax and enjoy the racing.....
Life my friends is Damn Good and VERY Short..... I'm tickled to death that
I bought that Hundred..... Still have it and my sons can sort it out when
I'm gone... If you look at the opportunity's it's provided me in my life
you have to be amazed.
Keith Turk.... ( here's the junk car... http://downtown.ala.net/~kturk )(
my 100 is poking around in the back of one of the pictures )( thanks to
each of you who read this far... I'm glad to have the opportunity to share
the dream )
Footnote:
Paul took his own life in December... he was 49yrs old and a very wealthy
man in monetary terms... but he had a drinking problem and couldn't stand
the thought of going thru yet another rehab.... Guys... my only problem was
that he had become a good friend and business mentor... and he Didn't call
me... if your ever feeling Stupid.... Take the time to call me.... trust me
I'll be here or somewhere .... just give me the opportunity to lighten your
load and lift your spirits... !!!
I'll even pay for the call.... 800 440 6566.. thanks again.... Keith
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 13:01:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Nappies, diapers and cotton towelling
The point made is that the dust and dirt that get picked up from the surface
of the car tend to migrate into the pile of the terry toweling, while they
stay closer to the surface on the diaper/nappies. Nonetheless, since some of
their customers still like the old-fashioned approach, both Meguiars and
Griots still sell "diaper-like" cloths as well as terry toweling polish
clothes .
As to size and shape, I buy "hand-towels, which are about 12x18 inches. I
fold them in quarters in use, which gives me eight separate surfaces to use
before I have to toss the towel in the bin for re-washing.
Any clearer?
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 13:18:44 -0400
Subject: RE: Overdrive dashboard switch
The switch that you describe sounds like the one on my 1970 UK spec
MGBGT.
I have never seen one on a Healey but it should be fairly easy to
determine if it is original.
Almost every Lucas component has a manufacture date stamped on it.
Like 02 66 or 08 71. It is usually in very small numbers so you will
need your good glasses :-)
If the date is close to and before the build date of your car the switch
is probably original.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Andy Phillips
Sent: 20-May-02 12:05 PM
To: Healey-List (E-mail)
Subject: Overdrive dashboard switch
I was participating in a local car show yesterday when a lady came up to
me
and spoke about the Healey she has had for the last 30 years that is
just
like mine. I asked her if she noticed anything non-standard about mine
(I
haven't received that concors guide yet) ... she pointed out that my
dashboard overdrive switch was different. Hers is like the wiper switch
(as
I have observed on other Healeys), but mine is slightly longer and half
way
along it angles down to wrap more around your finger. This is handy at
night
for feeling out the right switch. Does anyone else have a switch like
this?
My car was shipped from the factory to Holland, could this have been
standard there?
Andy
BJ8/42226
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 17:34:36 +0000
Subject: emergency brake question
- Chinese Proverb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 10:49:06 -0700
Subject: Re: Centershift Transmission Tunnel Refurbishment
The diameter of the hole is 3 9/16". It appears to be sort of off center,
with about 5/8" of flat surface surrounding the hole at the front and left,
but there is only about 3/8" of flat at the rear, and 1/2" at the right
side.
John Snyder
----------
> From: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
> To: Healey Forum <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Centershift Transmission Tunnel Refurbishment
> Date: Monday, May 20, 2002 7:36 AM
>
> Dear Healey Forum-
> I have done some fiberglass work on my 1965 AH 3000 center shift
transmission
> tunnel which has me asking... specifically how large is the diameter of
the
> hole in the top of the transmission tunnel where the gear shift protrudes
> through? Is the whole centered or off-center on that riser that
surrounds the
> gear shift boot? How much space is there surrounding where the boot
goes?
>
> I had to fill this area in with fiberglass to repair some damage and it
is now
> not altogether clear what needs to be cut out and what stays.
>
> Boring questions I know but the devil is in the details.
> Thanks all!
> Regards,
> Matt Wilson
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 10:50:47 -0700
Subject: Centershift Tranny Cover
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 12:20:39 -0600
Subject: Re: Nappies, diapers and cotton towelling
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> Sorry for the confusion about diapers/towels -- what I was trying to
> emphasize, and apparently twisting my knickers while doing so -- was that all
> the specialists recommend that all-cotten terry toweling (stuff with the
> loop-pile woven surface) be used for waxing and polishing in preference to
> even the old-fashioned cotten diapers/nappies (which have a smooth surface).
>
> The point made is that the dust and dirt that get picked up from the surface
> of the car tend to migrate into the pile of the terry toweling, while they
> stay closer to the surface on the diaper/nappies. Nonetheless, since some of
> their customers still like the old-fashioned approach, both Meguiars and
> Griots still sell "diaper-like" cloths as well as terry toweling polish
> clothes .
>
> As to size and shape, I buy "hand-towels, which are about 12x18 inches. I
> fold them in quarters in use, which gives me eight separate surfaces to use
> before I have to toss the towel in the bin for re-washing.
> Any clearer?
> Cheers
> Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Melvin Brunet" <mburnet at tampabay.rr.com>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 14:39:45 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time)
Subject: Centershift Transmission Tunnel
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/gif]
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 11:58:32 -0700
Subject: IMPORTANT: Tahoe Traveler's Warning
YOU WILL BE TRAVELLLING IN BEAR AND RACOON COUNTRY.
What does this mean? If there is even a HINT of anything that smells good in
your car, Mr. Bear and Mr. Racoon will happily enter your vehicle in search of
it. They do not use a master key. They don't even use a slim-jim or other
lock picking chicanery. They enter your car via whatever means available,
which almost always means brute force, with generally unhappy results for the
vehicle owner. Mr. Racoon will leave muddy prints and claw marks everywhere.
Mr. Bear will leave smashed windows, torn tops and tonneaus, doors and trunks
peeled open like sardine cans.
PLEASE TAKE THIS WARNING SERIOUSLY.
At least once a season we have a vehicle violated at our resort because
someone failed to heed the warning. These animals are nocturnal and generally
do not bother people unless threatened, but a free meal out of a car or
trashcan (or tent or campsite) is fair game. All it takes is a french fry
dropped between the seats that you didn't even know was there. Some toiletry
items even smell good enough to be investigated with the aforementioned
results.
We have Black and Brown Bears here (no grizzlies) and I don't want to unduly
alarm anyone but thought Tahoe travelers should be forewarned so as to not
find out the hard way. There are any number of websites or pamphlets
available about living and traveling in bear country, I suggest you
familiarize yourself and take appropriate precautions. Forewarned is
forearmed.
A fed bear is a dead bear.
Have a great and safe trip!
Jim '62 BT7 Tri Carb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 15:08:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Centershift Tranny Cover
John Snyder posts a message at 2:12 pm about dimensions for a
centershift tranny tunnel, and at 2:13 pm Matt Wilson has the hole drilled,
trimmed and time to send an e-mail.
I'm going to send some work to him!
Regards,
Charley Braum
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WC1996 at aol.com
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 15:27:39 EDT
Subject: Re: When first roll up windows in a Healey ?
Alan Cutcher
BN2
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 12:37:42 -0700
Subject: Re: IMPORTANT: Tahoe Traveler's Warning
------------
At 11:58 AM 5/20/2002, you wrote:
>Something I wanted to make everyone aware of, as a resident of the Sierra
>Nevadas.
>
>YOU WILL BE TRAVELLLING IN BEAR AND RACOON COUNTRY.
>
>What does this mean? If there is even a HINT of anything that smells good in
>your car, Mr. Bear and Mr. Racoon will happily enter your vehicle in search of
>it. They do not use a master key. They don't even use a slim-jim or other
>lock picking chicanery. They enter your car via whatever means available,
>which almost always means brute force, with generally unhappy results for the
>vehicle owner. Mr. Racoon will leave muddy prints and claw marks everywhere.
>Mr. Bear will leave smashed windows, torn tops and tonneaus, doors and trunks
>peeled open like sardine cans.
>
>PLEASE TAKE THIS WARNING SERIOUSLY.
>
>At least once a season we have a vehicle violated at our resort because
>someone failed to heed the warning. These animals are nocturnal and generally
>do not bother people unless threatened, but a free meal out of a car or
>trashcan (or tent or campsite) is fair game. All it takes is a french fry
>dropped between the seats that you didn't even know was there. Some toiletry
>items even smell good enough to be investigated with the aforementioned
>results.
>
>We have Black and Brown Bears here (no grizzlies) and I don't want to unduly
>alarm anyone but thought Tahoe travelers should be forewarned so as to not
>find out the hard way. There are any number of websites or pamphlets
>available about living and traveling in bear country, I suggest you
>familiarize yourself and take appropriate precautions. Forewarned is
>forearmed.
>
>A fed bear is a dead bear.
>
>Have a great and safe trip!
>
>Jim '62 BT7 Tri Carb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 12:50:59 -0700
Subject: Re: Nappies, diapers and cotton towelling
----- Original Message -----
From: "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2002 11:20 AM
Subject: Re: Nappies, diapers and cotton towelling
> Well Gary I sure like your suggestion of quarter folding the terry cloth
towels,
> neat idea! Nice thing about this list there isn't a day that passes that
one
> doesn't learn something!
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
> Saskatoon
>
> Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Sorry for the confusion about diapers/towels -- what I was trying to
> > emphasize, and apparently twisting my knickers while doing so -- was
that all
> > the specialists recommend that all-cotten terry toweling (stuff with the
> > loop-pile woven surface) be used for waxing and polishing in preference
to
> > even the old-fashioned cotten diapers/nappies (which have a smooth
surface).
> >
> > The point made is that the dust and dirt that get picked up from the
surface
> > of the car tend to migrate into the pile of the terry toweling, while
they
> > stay closer to the surface on the diaper/nappies. Nonetheless, since
some of
> > their customers still like the old-fashioned approach, both Meguiars and
> > Griots still sell "diaper-like" cloths as well as terry toweling polish
> > clothes .
> >
> > As to size and shape, I buy "hand-towels, which are about 12x18 inches.
I
> > fold them in quarters in use, which gives me eight separate surfaces to
use
> > before I have to toss the towel in the bin for re-washing.
> > Any clearer?
> > Cheers
> > Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 15:56:00 -0400
Subject: RE: Overdrive dashboard switch
In summary, it looks like I have the overdrive dashboard switch from a
series 1 MGB, which is also Lucas. To check if it is original to my car, I
will look at the back of the switch for a production date equal or less than
the production date of my car (August 1967).
Andy
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From michaelwilliams at attbi.com
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 20:09:22 +0000
Subject: Test
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 15:29:30 -0500
Subject: Re: IMPORTANT: Tahoe Traveler's Warning
Mark
> Something I wanted to make everyone aware of, as a resident of the Sierra
> Nevadas.
>
> YOU WILL BE TRAVELLLING IN BEAR AND RACOON COUNTRY.
>
> What does this mean? If there is even a HINT of anything that smells good
in
> your car, Mr. Bear and Mr. Racoon will happily enter your vehicle in
search of
> it. They do not use a master key. They don't even use a slim-jim or
other
> lock picking chicanery. They enter your car via whatever means available,
> which almost always means brute force, with generally unhappy results for
the
> vehicle owner. Mr. Racoon will leave muddy prints and claw marks
everywhere.
> Mr. Bear will leave smashed windows, torn tops and tonneaus, doors and
trunks
> peeled open like sardine cans.
>
> PLEASE TAKE THIS WARNING SERIOUSLY.
>
> At least once a season we have a vehicle violated at our resort because
> someone failed to heed the warning. These animals are nocturnal and
generally
> do not bother people unless threatened, but a free meal out of a car or
> trashcan (or tent or campsite) is fair game. All it takes is a french fry
> dropped between the seats that you didn't even know was there. Some
toiletry
> items even smell good enough to be investigated with the aforementioned
> results.
>
> We have Black and Brown Bears here (no grizzlies) and I don't want to
unduly
> alarm anyone but thought Tahoe travelers should be forewarned so as to not
> find out the hard way. There are any number of websites or pamphlets
> available about living and traveling in bear country, I suggest you
> familiarize yourself and take appropriate precautions. Forewarned is
> forearmed.
>
> A fed bear is a dead bear.
>
> Have a great and safe trip!
>
> Jim '62 BT7 Tri Carb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 20:49:58 +0000
Subject: Re: IMPORTANT: Tahoe Traveler's Warning
- Chinese Proverb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Robert J. Denton/Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 16:51:20 -0700
Subject: Re: IMPORTANT: Tahoe Traveler's Warning
Many years ago Michael and his girlfriend Carol went to Yosemite in his MGB.
Entering the park he was given the warning about bears. Being a very skeptical
Englishman, he laughed it off, branding the warning a "cute."
Not only did the bear destroy the cooler the food was in, it removed the top,
top bows and seats getting to the cooler. Not a very neat job either.
Be warned.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 17:43:58 -0400
Subject: RE: Prince of Darkness and other thoughts
I just got to think about the Britannia comment ... because the English are
nautical, maybe that's why we refer to the drive shaft as a prop shaft, or
is that just me?
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: N5572B@aol.com [mailto:N5572B@aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2002 10:14 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Prince of Darkness and other thoughts
Lucas may or may not deserve their reputation but I ask the question,
If Britannia rules the waves, why can't they build a car that will go
through
a puddle?
Cheers,
Dave
59 BT 7
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 15:12:12 +0000
Subject: Re: IMPORTANT: Tahoe Traveler's Warning
I can't remember how it happened but I was able to get out of that line
and do a back and forth turn around on that skinny black top two lane
and get the H--- out of there.
Thanks for the warning - appreciated!
Rich
BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 15:13:37 +0000
Subject: Re: IMPORTANT: Tahoe Traveler's Warning
I can't remember how it happened but I was able to get out of
that line
and do a back and forth turn around on that skinny black top two lane
and get the H--- out of there.
Thanks for the warning - appreciated!
Rich
BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 17:59:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Nappies, diapers and cotton towelling
<<
I use all cotton baby diapers, they are still available at KMart, Wal-Mart
etc... in packages of 10 or 12.
But when just trying to take dust off, they collect the dust; but then due to
static developed on paint surface, leaves a wad of it still there. I've used
my wife's "dry" floor picker uppers, they collect the dust nicely, and have
an anti-static agent so it doesn't collect, but it has an oil to it, that
then has to be buffed out.
Is there a non-oily anti-static spray (for towels) that you've heard of or
tried? >>
Since we seem to be enjoying this topic and haven't visited it for awhile --
if I'm just dusting off the car, I use a treated polishing cloth called a
Kozak Driwash Cloth.
My understanding is that it was originally developed to dust off airplanes
before flying and I first ordered them from Sporty's Pilot's Catalog, but now
we order them online from www.kozak.com. They are treated in such a way that
they will lift off dust and light dirt and add a little polish back to the
surface.
It's what the California Car Duster also is designed to do, but I find that
while both pick up the dirt, I can throw the Kozak away after I've used up
all eight surfaces on the car (they claim eighty cleanings, but I can usually
use a cloth for about five or six shows on the surface of the car, and then
used it again to clean fender wells before throwing it away). The car duster
is too expensive to throw away (got that big wood handle, etc). and it also
is much more awkward to pack.
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 18:02:55 EDT
Subject: Re: Nappies, diapers and cotton towelling
<< To follow up on Gary's remarks with a helpful tip - COSTCO sells white
terrycloth "shop" towels in large bundled bags of 40 per bag. >>
I typically get a bundle for my birthday and one for Christmas from car
friends.
They work very well. If they're not too dirty, I wash them and reuse them,
but if they get too grungy, they're cheap enough to throw out.
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 22:17:58 +0000
Subject: RE: Prince of Darkness and other thoughts
- Chinese Proverb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Louis Galper <lgalper1 at cox.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 15:27:33 -0700
Subject: BN1 parts
Is there a recommendation for a parts source for the rubber bushings on
the front suspension.
I received the Moss items, which look like repro. units very different
than the original. Maybe they are better than the original units ??
SC parts has a listing for OE bushings--waiting to hear from them.
Lou
BN1
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From dyaarl <dyaarl at attbi.com>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 19:33:21 -0400
Subject: Bears and Racoons, no sweat
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Robert Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 19:34:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Bears and Racoons, no sweat
dyaarl wrote:
> Bring on the Bears and God help them I am bring my wife to Tahoe. They
> have net there match.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 19:40:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Bears and Racoons, no sweat
<< Bring on the Bears and God help them I am bring my wife to Tahoe. They
have net there match. >>
Are you sure you want them to net their match? Or net their catch?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 17:09:27 -0700
Subject: Re: IMPORTANT: Tahoe Traveler's Warning
-Roland
getting ready for Tahoe
On Mon, 20 May 2002 15:29:30 -0500, "Mark and kathy LaPierre"
<mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net> wrote:
:: That sounds like an area for SUVs not LBCs. I Don't envy those who have
:: the misfortune of a break down in that area.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From BSCCofKY at aol.com
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 20:18:39 EDT
Subject: MARQUES ON THE GREEN
Featuring over 125 British Cars! The Largest British Car Show in Kentucky!
Sponsored by the BRITISH SPORTS CAR CLUB Louisville, Kentucky
Registration from 9:00 AM to Noon. Awards at 3:00 PM
PARTICIPANTS CHOICE VOTING CLASS TROPHIES. SPECIAL & NOVELTY AWARDS BEST OF
SHOW. MASTERS CLASS (Prior Year Class Winners) BEST OF FEATURED MARQUE
This years featured Marques will be Little British Cars - Midget - Sprite -
Spitfire - Mini & More!
Registration Form - Print and Mail Today!! Or visit the club web page at <A
HREF="http://britishsportscarclub.com/";>
BritishSportsCarClub.com</A> for more information
Name _______________________________________
Street _______________________________________
City _____________________ State ____ Zip _______
Telephone___________________________________
Email_______________________________________
Car Information
Year _____ Make ___________ Model __________ Color _________
Year _____ Make ___________ Model __________ Color _________
___ Check here for Diamond In The Rough Class
___ Check here if Year 2001 Class Winner
PARTS, VENDORS, RAFFLES and FUN
No Charge To Vendors
LIABILITY RELEASE
I, the undersigned, understand that the British Sports Car Club assumes
neither responsibility nor liability for my actions, the actions of others,
or any loss or damage to any person or person's property participating in
this event
Signature________________________ Date_________
Please make checks payable to BSCC and mail to:
BRITISH SPORTS CAR CLUB
P.O. Box 43923
Louisville, KY 40253-0923
ADVANCE PAYMENT
BSCC Members $10.00 _______
First Car $12.00 _______
Second Car $6.00 _______
DAY OF SHOW
First Car $15.00 _______
Second Car $8.00 _______
Total Amount $ __________
If additional information is required contact Mike Leezer (502) 239-8343
.Fax: (502) 451-3247 .E-Mail: <A
HREF="mailto:Mikes74tr6@cs.com";>Mikes74tr6@cs.com </A>or Don Minnich (812)
923-7349
.E-Mail: <A HREF="mailto:dons59tr3a@aol.com";>dons59tr3a@aol.com </A>Or visit
the club web page at <A HREF="http://britishsportscarclub.com/";>
BritishSportsCarClub.com</A>
Print and mail today!
To request a copy or for more information contact <A
HREF="mailto:information@britishsportscarclub.com";>
information@britishsportscarclub.com</A>
A fun day for the Whole Family!!!
<A HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/bsccofky/BSCC_bash_hotel.html";>Click here for
Marques on the Green Driving Directions</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ZManDino at aol.com
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 20:24:10 EDT
Subject: Lake Tahoe
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From michaelwilliams at attbi.com
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 00:34:27 +0000
Subject: Re: front ride height
Left Front: 25.75"
Right Front: 26.75"
Left Rear: 24.75" (!)
Right Rear: 25.50"
As you can see, my car is not only sagging in the back
but also listing to the left quite a bit. Is this
likely just tired springs or is there something else
that could cause this?
--Michael Williams
'55 BN1
> From some ancient tech session notes (1978) I extract
the following: from
> the ground to the top of the wheel opening, BJ8s 28
inches, all others 27
> inches. And from my Drake manual: height over
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rmoment at aol.com
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 20:40:01 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 parts
> Is there a recommendation for a parts source for the rubber bushings on
> the front suspension.
>
> I received the Moss items, which look like repro. units very different
> than the original. Maybe they are better than the original units ??
>
> SC parts has a listing for OE bushings--waiting to hear from them.
>
I assume the bushings of question are the inner A-arm ones. Originals had a
large flat steel flange on teh outside face -- new ones have only the steel
tube down the center.
For decades now the current style have been the only ones available. They
work just fine as the large steel washers at either end provide sufficient
bearing surface to support the rubber. Jsut be sure to put anti-sieze on the
bolt when putting everkything back together. And read the shop manual as it
tells very clearly how the assembly process should be performed.
Roger
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 17:43:02 -0700
Subject: Re: IMPORTANT: Tahoe Traveler's Warning
> Not only did the bear destroy the cooler the food was in, it removed the top,
> top bows and seats getting to the cooler. Not a very neat job either.
>
Many years ago I camped at Yellowstone out of my '56 T-Bird. Made very sure
there
wasn't the slightest bit of food, wrappers, etc. in the car before I buttoned up
the tonneau for the night.
About three AM there was a ruckus. My mate stuck his head under his wall of the
tent, then recoiled saying, "It's a (censored) bear!" He'd put his forehead
right
against the bear's cold, wet nose.
I looked out of the tent to watch the bear -illuminated by numerous flashlights-
peel open a neighbor's cooler as if it were a tin can. Mr. Bear then ambled
over
to the back of my adolescent pride-and-joy, climbed upon the trunk (boot), and
sauntered toward the hood (bonnet), walking upon the tonneau. Held him until he
was almost to the dash, then ripped into 3 pieces, dropping him into the
cockpit.
He shot out like a rocket and disappeared. In the process he sliced, ripped or
punctured 11 of the 13 seat panels. (Missed the dash.)
Pete Pollock
BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 17:50:55 -0700
Subject: Re: IMPORTANT: Tahoe Traveler's Warning
I am no bleeding heart tree hugger but let's face it--the reason that we
have bear problems is from years of poor garbage management and from
uninformed tourists who think it's "cute" to feed the bears. These same
tourists then return to the comforts of their cities and leave those of us
who live and work here with a serious problem. Mr. Bear's tiny brain now
only knows that humans = food and as a result we have bear incidents and
countless bears have to be destroyed every year. It's very sad and why we
say "a fed bear is a dead bear."
Off my soapbox,
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Cc: "James Hart" <jgh3rd@jps.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2002 1:49 PM
Subject: Re: IMPORTANT: Tahoe Traveler's Warning
> I believe ant-varmint spray comes in double barrel and
> lever action type dispensers--)
> Ira Erbs
> Digs-4 Solutions
> For training,network,PC and
> Macintosh
> "Learning without thinking is
> labor lost; thinking
> without learning is dangerous."
>
> - Chinese Proverb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ira Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 17:56:49 -0700
Subject: RE: IMPORTANT: Tahoe Traveler's Warning
-----Original Message-----
From: James Hart [mailto:jgh3rd@jps.net]
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2002 5:51 PM
To: eyera3@attbi.com; Mark and kathy LaPierre
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: IMPORTANT: Tahoe Traveler's Warning
I knew this was going to come up. Discharging a firearm with intent to kill
a bear will get you VERY sideways VERY quickly with the Game Warden and any
other number of local authorities--while I am sure Ira was speaking tongue
in cheek, please don't consider this an option.
I am no bleeding heart tree hugger but let's face it--the reason that we
have bear problems is from years of poor garbage management and from
uninformed tourists who think it's "cute" to feed the bears. These same
tourists then return to the comforts of their cities and leave those of us
who live and work here with a serious problem. Mr. Bear's tiny brain now
only knows that humans = food and as a result we have bear incidents and
countless bears have to be destroyed every year. It's very sad and why we
say "a fed bear is a dead bear."
Off my soapbox,
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Cc: "James Hart" <jgh3rd@jps.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2002 1:49 PM
Subject: Re: IMPORTANT: Tahoe Traveler's Warning
> I believe ant-varmint spray comes in double barrel and
> lever action type dispensers--)
> Ira Erbs
> Digs-4 Solutions
> For training,network,PC and
> Macintosh
> "Learning without thinking is
> labor lost; thinking
> without learning is dangerous."
>
> - Chinese Proverb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 21:00:34 EDT
Subject: Re: front ride height
> Is this
> likely just tired springs or is there something else
> that could cause this?
>
(Of course there has to be a little humor in all this sometimes.)
Have you given thought to the possibility that it might be just tired left
side springs.
Two possible solutions; Change the steering to right hand drive or switch
left side springs with the right side springs.
If that fails to correct to the problem then a full set of new springs may be
the answer.
Marion
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Robert Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 21:04:05 -0700
Subject: Re: IMPORTANT: Tahoe Traveler's Warning
Ira Erbs wrote:
> Poor attempt at humor. I do not condone poaching any game for any reason,
> but is it poaching if you accidentally run the sucker over? Still more poor
> humor...
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 18:11:25 -0700
Subject: Re: Lake Tahoe
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 11:25:40 +1000
Subject: Tahoe Traveller's Warning - Australian Prospective
Reading about the exploits with the native animals of North America reminds me
of the problems we have with our native fauna in Australia.
While marauding Wombats and Kangaroos can make one hell of a mess if they run
into your car it pales when it comes to Koalas.
In particular the species colloquially called Drop Bears. Seasoned travellers
know never to park at night under certain gum trees. What happens is that the
Koalas, in search of food drop out of the trees and cause untold damage to
whatever lies below. Their sharp claws make light work of vehicle bodywork and
soft tops/tonneaus are like tissue paper. Heaven help the poor soul if a Drop
Bear should fall on their shoulders.
Now if the Drop Bear Koalas don't get you there are always the Crocodiles that
have a particular liking for vehicle tyres especially if the vehicle has run
over the odd Cane Toad.
Despite all these perils it's still possible to travel in relative safety.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 04:26:49 -0700
Subject: Re: Prince of Darkness and other thoughts
I just got the brake caliper repair kit I ordered from Moss, and it came in a
green and white LUCAS box!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Andy Phillips
To: Healey-List (E-mail)
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2002 2:43 PM
Subject: RE: Prince of Darkness and other thoughts
No other country would consider building a car that had the distributor at
the front ready to take all the water coming through the grille (ala Mini,
Austin 1100/1300 variants ... but it's hardly a Lucas problem). The
problems
for Lucas, ironically, were worst when they moved outside of auto electrics
and built the mechanical fuel injection for Triumph. Things were
exacerbated
under British Leyland's poor quality control.
I just got to think about the Britannia comment ... because the English are
nautical, maybe that's why we refer to the drive shaft as a prop shaft, or
is that just me?
Andy
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From <caudle1 at charter.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 21:26:11 -0400
Subject: hydroplane speed ?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 18:41:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Information: restoration insurance
After last week's painful story about the poor Healey
Dude who had a half finished healey stuck in the body
shop that went out of business, I wrote a letter to
Hagerty to see if they might have insurance to cover
this problem. Their response was quite interesting
(see below).
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Jim Pascoe <JimP@HAGERTY.com> wrote:
> Dear Mr. Seigrist:
>
> Thank you for your e-mail of May 15, 2002. In
> response to your question,
> auto policies cover theft but this requires
> identifying a specific
> location and time that the property turns up
> missing. Generally, in
> cases where a restorer has had possession of the car
> for an extended
> period of time, the date of the "theft" is difficult
> to establish. In
> addition, the policy requires that the "theft" be
> reported to the
> police. Sometimes this requirement can also create
> difficulties if the
> shop went out of business simply because they were
> poorly run and there
> was no intent of depriving anyone of their property.
>
>
> In short, there are instances where the situation
> you describe is
> covered under your current policy if the above
> requirements are met.
>
> In the meantime, we will study the issue to see if
> there is something
> the states will approve that will allow us to more
> broadly address this
> concern.
>
> Another thought in the meantime, is to check with
> the restoration shop
> ahead of time to see if they have any bailee's
> coverage or something
> similar that covers customers property while in
> their possession. If
> this coverage is in place, the policy will still be
> in force even if the
> shop goes out of business as long as the loss
> occurred during the policy
> period. This would give you someplace else to go
> for recovery of your
> loss.
>
> We appreciate your suggestions on how to make our
> policy more
> comprehensive to our customers.
>
>
> Jim Pascoe AIC, CCLA, CPCU
> Vice President of Claims and Compliance
> jpascoe@hagerty.com
> 231-933-3791
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 22:19:15 EDT
Subject: Chrome wire wheels -- was wood-rim steering wheels
<< How many points do you
lose for chrome wire wheels? >>
48 spoke chrome wire wheels are acceptable without deduction on 4-cylinder
roadsters. For all other types of chrome wire wheels and on all other models,
the deduction is ten points out of 1,000.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Chairman, AH Concours Registry
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Andy Phillips" <andyp at cylogix.com>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 22:24:17 -0400
Subject: Re: hydroplane speed ?
----- Original Message -----
From: caudle1@charter.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2002 9:26 PM
Subject: hydroplane speed ?
Took the bj8 to the alignment shop ( use to go there as teenager ) where
this one man shop has successfully operated for 40 plus years. Don't know
how
he got around to asking me, but he ask me if I know how to determine
hydroplane speed ? Of course I didn't and of course he did. I thought I
would
ask the list if there is any fact to this. To find hydroplane speed in one
inch of water, take the square root of your tire pressure times (X) nine
(9).
Here is his example, tire pressure of 36psi= square root of 6, multiply x 9=
54 mph. What ya think?
Dave
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 22:42:11 -0400
Subject: Re: hydroplane speed ?
Regards,
Charley Braum
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 22:56:03 -0400
Subject: Running Temperature
I got my louvered bonnet installed on the 100-4 and went for the first
drive with it last Saturday. Here in the Pittsburgh area it was cloudy and
cool, with a little light rain here and there. Whilst on the PA turnpike,
cruising at ~60 mph, I noticed a slight hesitation which increased a bit when
accelerating. Dropping the speed back down cleared the situation, and at lower
speeds (anything lower than 60 mph) there was no hesitation. Now, the only
thing different from the last time I drove the car was the bonnet, and due to
that, the engine running temperature. When I finally started to analyze the
situation I found the engine temp at 145 to 150 deg when the hesitation was
apparent. I never got to run at higher temperatures at the higher speeds.
Question: can this be caused by the engine running too cold? What a
concept!! I haven't seen temps on my car like this since I bought it, and, as
mentioned above, there was NOTHING else done in this time frame.
I'll appreciate any answers on- or off-list; again a Healey running too
cold - I couldn't BEAR the thought!!
Thanks in advance,
Charley Braum
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 20:11:22 -0700
Subject: Re: BN1 parts
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Hello,
>
> Is there a recommendation for a parts source for the rubber bushings on
> the front suspension.
>
> I received the Moss items, which look like repro. units very different
> than the original. Maybe they are better than the original units ??
>
> SC parts has a listing for OE bushings--waiting to hear from them.
>
> Lou
> BN1
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 20:14:56 -0700
Subject: Re: BN1 parts
Sorry.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> In a message dated 05/20/2002 4:26:20 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
> lgalper1@cox.net writes:
>
>
> > Is there a recommendation for a parts source for the rubber bushings on
> > the front suspension.
> >
> > I received the Moss items, which look like repro. units very different
> > than the original. Maybe they are better than the original units ??
> >
> > SC parts has a listing for OE bushings--waiting to hear from them.
> >
> I assume the bushings of question are the inner A-arm ones. Originals had a
> large flat steel flange on teh outside face -- new ones have only the steel
> tube down the center.
>
> For decades now the current style have been the only ones available. They
> work just fine as the large steel washers at either end provide sufficient
> bearing surface to support the rubber. Jsut be sure to put anti-sieze on the
> bolt when putting everkything back together. And read the shop manual as it
> tells very clearly how the assembly process should be performed.
>
> Roger
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 20:27:33 -0700
Subject: Re: hydroplane speed ?
NASA did the research, WRT aircraft tires on saturated runways. They
found that tire pressure was the single most significant determinant.
Tread design, depth, tire composition were all but incidental. I think the
so-called "rain" tires help some on partially wet pavement only.
Actually, if I recall correctly (always suspect :), the formula was closer
to 8.5 times the square root of tire pressure.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Just a thought; I'm sure this does not take into account the differences
> in tire design, say a racing slick -vs- a marketed rain tire. However, I'm
> sure that the basic philosophy is a good guideline to use if you want to be
> careful 'out there'.
>
> Regards,
> Charley Braum
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From <caudle1 at charter.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 00:17:02 -0400
Subject: Re: hydroplane speed ?
> I read about this (hydroplane speed) in an aviation mag years ago.
>
> NASA did the research, WRT aircraft tires on saturated runways. They
> found that tire pressure was the single most significant determinant.
> Tread design, depth, tire composition were all but incidental. I think
the
> so-called "rain" tires help some on partially wet pavement only.
>
> Actually, if I recall correctly (always suspect :), the formula was closer
> to 8.5 times the square root of tire pressure.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 22:02:31 -0700
Subject: [Fwd: Prince of Darkness]
"P.M. Pollock" wrote:
> And then there is:
>
> Smoke
> A sheet of paper crossed my desk the other day and as I read it, realization
>of a Basic
> Truth came over me. So simple! So obvious we couldn't see it! John
>Kuivinen, Chairman of
> the Palomar Repeater Committee, an amateur radio group, has discovered what
>really
> makes integrated circuits work. He says that smoke is the thing that makes
>IC's work
> because every time you let the smoke out of an IC it stops working. He
>claims to have
> verified this through testing. I was flabbergasted.
>
> Of course! Smoke makes all things electrical work. Remember the last time
>the
> smoke escaped from your Lucas voltage regulator? Didn't it quit working? I
>sat and smiled
> like an idiot as more of the truth dawned. It's the wiring harness that
>carries smoke from
> one device to another in your Mini, and when the harness springs a leak, it
>lets the smoke
> out of everything all at once and then nothing works. The starter motor
>requires large
> quantities of smoke to operate properly, that's why the wire going to it is
>so big.
>
> Feeling very smug, I continued to expand my hypothesis. Why are Lucas
>electrics
> more likely to leak smoke than, say, Bosch? Hmmm. Aha! Lucas is British.
>Things British
> always leak! British convertible tops leak water. British engines leak oil.
> British displacer
> units leak hydroelastic fluid. British governments leak defense secrets. So
>naturally, British
> electrics leak more smoke!
>
> Or:
>
> 4. Law of Non-Functional Attributes
>
> All British Sports Cars, regardless of condition or age, shall always have at
>least one
> system or sub-system of components which is entirely non-functional, and
>cannot be
> repaired except on a semi-permanent or semi-functional basis.
>
> This is also known as the famous Lucas Electrics Law.
>
> Jokes aside, Lucas parts have always seemed to me to be of decent quality.
> Cheers,
> Peter
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From List Administration <lists at autox.team.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 23:59:50 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Forwarded: valves for BJ8
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
From: "Allen S Hodder" <ash173@frontiernet.net>
Subject: valves for BJ8
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 04:10:12 -0500
Hello, I'm about to replace my valves and valve guides. I was going to
order them thru Moss. I noticed that the exhaust valves they have to
offer are stellite faced. My question is this, does anything special
have to be done to the head for this application. I plan on having the
seat surface touched up before replacing. Also, what kind of valve guide
should I buy, manganese-bronze? Or does that even matter, would buying
the cheaper ones be ok? I have 3 tractors, built in 1945, 1948 and 1950.
I farmed on the side for almost 30 years. Since regular gas became
unavailable, I used unleaded and added a lead substitute. The tractor
engines seem to run just fine by doing this. I could use the old valves
again, but I want to put in new stuff every chance I get. Your comments
are greatly appreciated.
Al
BJ8L35791
------- End of forwarded message -------
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 23:24:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: valves for BJ8
You've touched on the subject of the decade. Every
lister will give you a different answer here.
1) Stellite faced valves are harder & longer lasting
than the original exhaust valves. They will last
longer. I have them in my BJ8 and haven't chipped a
valve in 70K miles.
2) Manganese-bronze guides are superior to the
original style ones... they lubricate better and wear
out less.
3) There are four schools of thought on what you
should do with the head, which is the following:
3a) Use lead substitute. I use Bardahl's instead o'
lead gold. Great product includes octane boost that
actually works. This costs more money over the long
run, but the results are excellent.
3b) Use unleaded with no substitutes. Some people say
that lead is uneccessary to protect your head...
although I think most of the people doing this are
running motors that used to run leaded, thus have a
build up of lead on the valve seats.
3c) Harden the head's valve ports/seats. You can have
this done at some specialty machine shops - it should
be done by a pro with experience on british engines.
This will prevent head wear in the absense of lead.
3d) Insert the figure eight valve seats that some of
the racers use. This is recommended by a few
suppliers in england, and I think the results are
probably excellent... but it's a little costly. These
special seats should be installed by a pro.
HOpe that helps,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
------- Start of forwarded message -------
> From: "Allen S Hodder" <ash173@frontiernet.net>
> Subject: valves for BJ8
> Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 04:10:12 -0500
>
>
> Hello, I'm about to replace my valves and valve
> guides. I was going to
> order them thru Moss. I noticed that the exhaust
> valves they have to
> offer are stellite faced. My question is this, does
> anything special
> have to be done to the head for this application. I
> plan on having the
> seat surface touched up before replacing. Also, what
> kind of valve guide
> should I buy, manganese-bronze? Or does that even
> matter, would buying
> the cheaper ones be ok? I have 3 tractors, built in
> 1945, 1948 and 1950.
> I farmed on the side for almost 30 years. Since
> regular gas became
> unavailable, I used unleaded and added a lead
> substitute. The tractor
> engines seem to run just fine by doing this. I could
> use the old valves
> again, but I want to put in new stuff every chance I
> get. Your comments
> are greatly appreciated.
>
> Al
> BJ8L35791
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 08:13:19 +0100
Subject: Re: Tahoe Traveller's Warning - Australian Prospective
I think you should all play safe and come to the UK Austin Healey 50
celebrations here in Berkshire, west of London.
Guaranteed no bears, koalas or crocs! No quakes either. And a bit of
English rain never hurt anybody, even if it might do more damage to your
LBC in the long run!
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 00:45:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Tahoe Traveller's Warning - Australian Prospective
You seem to forget hedghogs might put out a tire or
two and South Asian/Middle Eastern I.I.s running from
the Chunnel are a definite road hazard. You might
scratch your paint when passing the odd kilt-clad
Scotsman on a bicycle as well. Dear me, the UK is
full of natural hazards.
Please forward any complaints about my un-PC comments
on I.I.s or Scotsmen to my lawyer. Thank you!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
PS. I.I. = Illegal Immigrant
--- Alan F Cross <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> In message
>
<1CE69FABC71E184C8991EBD0B31A9EE2049CE1@fpfexch1.central.det.win>,
>
> "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
> writes
> >reetings
> >
> >Reading about the exploits with the native animals
> of North America
> >reminds me of the problems we have with our native
> fauna in Australia.
> >
> >While marauding Wombats and Kangaroos can make one
> hell of a mess if
> >they run into your car it pales when it comes to
> Koalas.
>
> I think you should all play safe and come to the UK
> Austin Healey 50
> celebrations here in Berkshire, west of London.
>
> Guaranteed no bears, koalas or crocs! No quakes
> either. And a bit of
> English rain never hurt anybody, even if it might do
> more damage to your
> LBC in the long run!
> --
> Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
> Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club
> at:
> http://www.austin-healey-club.com
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Peter Ehn" <peter.ehn at frontwalker.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 10:55:52 +0200
Subject: BJ8 starting problems when hot
When the engine is turned off when hot (=normal hot) and I try to start it
again the starter sometimes does not work. When I turn the key all that happens
is a small "click", I'm not even sure if the solenoid connects.
When the engine is cool the starter turns over with full force and the engine
starts easily, so I know I have enough battery, connections etc.
It seems to me that when something gets warm/hot the electrical connections
"turn bad".
I am not all that good at electrical issues, so any good ideas of what to check
and how to do it are welcome.
PS. During the overhaul of the car I had the starter apart and replaced the
field coil (it was burnt) and the brushes with Lucas originals at an old
car-electrical specialist shop. He did a good job, tested it in his shop, and
as said, it works fine when engine is cool.
Thanks, Peter Ehn
********************************************************
Peter Ehn, 1967 BJ8-42208
Eloppevdgen 36, 168 56 Bromma
Sweden
tel: +46 (0)708 33 72 97
email peter.ehn@frontwalker.com
********************************************************
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete at catey.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 11:46:53 +0200
Subject: Rear suspension 100 BN1
Does any of you know where to find the rear suspension of a 54 BN1. I know
that there has been some production changes mid54. My car is an early 54
and would like to install the right suspension blades (number and
thickness).
Thanks,
Bruno Verstraete
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 03:12:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: BJ8 starting problems when hot
Usually the problem is exactly the opposite (cold hard
to start, hot easy).
I'd check the following:
1) Battery contacts. make sure the battery contacts &
connectors are all clean and no surface corrosion. If
you have a battery terminal cleaner, give the
terminals a good scrub & the cable connector a good
scrub.
2) Solenoid / ground connections. Make sure your
ground & connections to solenoid are clean & tight.
Hope that works,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Peter Ehn <peter.ehn@frontwalker.com> wrote:
> Hi folks,
> I have just got my BJ8 back on the street after a 2
> year overhaul (replacing rusty panels, replacing
> top, engine out to fix engine-bay, re-painting
> etc.).
> It is a GREAT thrill to have it out nice and shiny
> again in the Swedish spring weather, but... I have
> one problem:
>
> When the engine is turned off when hot (=normal hot)
> and I try to start it again the starter sometimes
> does not work. When I turn the key all that happens
> is a small "click", I'm not even sure if the
> solenoid connects.
> When the engine is cool the starter turns over with
> full force and the engine starts easily, so I know I
> have enough battery, connections etc.
>
> It seems to me that when something gets warm/hot the
> electrical connections "turn bad".
>
> I am not all that good at electrical issues, so any
> good ideas of what to check and how to do it are
> welcome.
>
> PS. During the overhaul of the car I had the starter
> apart and replaced the field coil (it was burnt) and
> the brushes with Lucas originals at an old
> car-electrical specialist shop. He did a good job,
> tested it in his shop, and as said, it works fine
> when engine is cool.
>
> Thanks, Peter Ehn
>
>
********************************************************
> Peter Ehn, 1967 BJ8-42208
> Eloppevdgen 36, 168 56 Bromma
> Sweden
> tel: +46 (0)708 33 72 97
> email peter.ehn@frontwalker.com
>
********************************************************
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 05:24:25 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 starting problems when hot
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 06:31:21 EDT
Subject: Pre-departure check and parts for the road
<A HREF="http://modena.intergate.ca/business/healeys/ah-tech1.html";>Click here:
A-HOABC Tech Session #1</A>
Two weeks to departure for Ocean City photo-op!
Best to all--Michael Oritt
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 14:52:55 -0700
Subject: re: Valves for BJ8
I'm about 20,000 miles and three years into the engine rebuild on my BJ8, and
so far I haven't had any problems with the stellite exhaust valves and
standard iron valve guides that I installed. I had the head rebuilt with
hardened valve seats also since it was convenient to do so, and now I don't
have to worry whether unleaded petrol causes any problems or not.
I chose to go with the standard guides instead of the manganese bronze
because, about the same time, someone on the MGs list had had problems with
valve sticking using the manganese bronze guides. Perhaps that was due to
other issues such as improper machining, but not knowing for sure I decided
not to use them.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJL/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
From: "Allen S Hodder" <ash173@frontiernet.net>
Subject: valves for BJ8
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 04:10:12 -0500
Hello, I'm about to replace my valves and valve guides. I was going to
order them thru Moss. I noticed that the exhaust valves they have to
offer are stellite faced. My question is this, does anything special
have to be done to the head for this application. I plan on having the
seat surface touched up before replacing. Also, what kind of valve guide
should I buy, manganese-bronze? Or does that even matter, would buying
the cheaper ones be ok? I have 3 tractors, built in 1945, 1948 and 1950.
I farmed on the side for almost 30 years. Since regular gas became
unavailable, I used unleaded and added a lead substitute. The tractor
engines seem to run just fine by doing this. I could use the old valves
again, but I want to put in new stuff every chance I get. Your comments
are greatly appreciated.
Al
BJ8L35791
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 21:58:53 +1000
Subject: Re: BJ8 starting problems when hot
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
| Hi folks,
| I have just got my BJ8 back on the street after a 2 year overhaul
(replacing rusty panels, replacing top, engine out to fix engine-bay,
re-painting etc.).
| It is a GREAT thrill to have it out nice and shiny again in the Swedish
spring weather, but... I have one problem:
|
| When the engine is turned off when hot (=normal hot) and I try to start it
again the starter sometimes does not work. When I turn the key all that
happens is a small "click", I'm not even sure if the solenoid connects.
| When the engine is cool the starter turns over with full force and the
engine starts easily, so I know I have enough battery, connections etc.
|
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 15:01:41 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 starting problems when hot
You don't mention having your engine rebuilt, but after my engine rebuild the
starter seemed to have a hard time turning the engine when hot, but was O.K.
when cool, just as yours is doing. During the rebuild of the engine, I had
the starter checked out by a specialist, and it was fine.
I could only explain it as a tight engine -- clearances closing up as the
various engine parts heated -- because after a few thousand miles the problem
totally disappeared. Electrical resistances do increase with temperature, so
make sure all connections are clean and tight to minimize high resistance in
the circuit.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Ehn
To: Healeys (E-mail)
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 1:55 AM
Subject: BJ8 starting problems when hot
Hi folks,
I have just got my BJ8 back on the street after a 2 year overhaul (replacing
rusty panels, replacing top, engine out to fix engine-bay, re-painting etc.).
It is a GREAT thrill to have it out nice and shiny again in the Swedish
spring weather, but... I have one problem:
When the engine is turned off when hot (=normal hot) and I try to start it
again the starter sometimes does not work. When I turn the key all that
happens is a small "click", I'm not even sure if the solenoid connects.
When the engine is cool the starter turns over with full force and the
engine starts easily, so I know I have enough battery, connections etc.
It seems to me that when something gets warm/hot the electrical connections
"turn bad".
I am not all that good at electrical issues, so any good ideas of what to
check and how to do it are welcome.
PS. During the overhaul of the car I had the starter apart and replaced the
field coil (it was burnt) and the brushes with Lucas originals at an old
car-electrical specialist shop. He did a good job, tested it in his shop, and
as said, it works fine when engine is cool.
Thanks, Peter Ehn
********************************************************
Peter Ehn, 1967 BJ8-42208
Eloppevdgen 36, 168 56 Bromma
Sweden
tel: +46 (0)708 33 72 97
email peter.ehn@frontwalker.com
********************************************************
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 22:02:09 +1000
Subject: Re: Tahoe Traveller's Warning - Australian Prospective
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
| Greetings
|
| Reading about the exploits with the native animals of North America
reminds me of the problems we have with our native fauna in Australia.
|
| While marauding Wombats and Kangaroos can make one hell of a mess if they
run into your car it pales when it comes to Koalas.
|
| In particular the species colloquially called Drop Bears. Seasoned
travellers know never to park at night under certain gum trees. What happens
is that the Koalas, in search of food drop out of the trees and cause untold
damage to whatever lies below. Their sharp claws make light work of vehicle
bodywork and soft tops/tonneaus are like tissue paper. Heaven help the poor
soul if a Drop Bear should fall on their shoulders.
|
| Now if the Drop Bear Koalas don't get you there are always the Crocodiles
that have a particular liking for vehicle tyres especially if the vehicle
has run over the odd Cane Toad.
|
| Despite all these perils it's still possible to travel in relative safety.
|
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From <alan at andysnet.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 07:33:23 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: BJ8 starting problems when hot
Next time it happens try pushing the button on the starter solenoid mounted
in the engine bay. You may have a bad solenoid.
Al
HBJ8L34297
>
> When the engine is turned off when hot (=normal hot) and I try to start
> it again the starter sometimes does not work. When I turn the key all
> that happens is a small "click", I'm not even sure if the solenoid
> connects. When the engine is cool the starter turns over with full
> force and the engine starts easily, so I know I have enough battery,
> connections etc.
>
> It seems to me that when something gets warm/hot the electrical
> connections "turn bad".
>
> I am not all that good at electrical issues, so any good ideas of what
> to check and how to do it are welcome.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 08:53:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Valves for BJ8 (Long and complex)
Alan (Blue one Hundred) has covered most of the pertinent information on
this subject however I feel that the question of bronze valve guides
requires further comment.
The following is a letter that I received after a considerable amount of
research on the subject after encountering problems with Chrysler 3.0 V6
and MGB engines fitted with bronze guides.
I would strongly recommend cast iron guides only.
October 6, 2000
Att: Michael Salter
Re: Valve Guide and Valve Seizure
Dear Michael,
As per our telephone conversation a few days ago regarding bronze
valve guide seizure in cast iron cylinder heads, please find an excerpt
from a letter I sent to a manufacture company which produce bronze valve
guides. I do not completely agree with the theory of carbon and scale
build-up at the lower part of the valve stem area causing the valve to
seize in the valve guide. We are in agreement with the theory of
gasoline related problems with regards to the increased amount of
Methanol and other additives introduced in the gasoline which in turn
cause higher combustion temperatures. The resulting increase in
combustion temperature can inhibit the engine lubricant's ability to
perform many or all vital functions related to the valve system.
Many of cylinder heads suffering from valve to valve guide seizures
we frequently service already contain valve guides incorporating a
carbon relief such as the Dodge Colt
2.0 liter as well as the Chrysler 3.0 V6. Upon detailed inspection and
measurement we find the valve stem diameter of the valve remains stable
but the inside diameter of the valve guide becomes smaller. Only the
area of the valve guide which is encapsulated in the cylinder head
casting has realized a reduction of the inside diameter, while the upper
portion of the valve guide which protrudes above the casting in the
valve spring area is unaffected. Measurements of the valve guide inside
diameter at the upper area above the casting confirms proper clearance
while measurement taken along the entire encapsulated length of the
inside diameter of the valve guide area realizes substantial reductions
in clearance.
In virtually all cases the exhaust valves are the only valves
affected by this phenomena with a higher degree of seizures occurring at
exhaust valves residing in or close to heat cross over ports (GM 350
CID, Chrly 360 CID). We have witnessed no spalling, galling or transfer
of metals from the valve to the valve guide or vise versa. It is our
belief that the fuel additives enhanced by increased combustion
temperatures may allow certain lubricants to oxidize therefore coating
the inside diameter of the valve guides with a hard varnish type residue
which slowly reduces clearance and ultimately creates valve seizure in
supplement to the inside diameter of the guides to collapse because the
guides are expanding at a greater rate than the head casting.
Respectfully yours,
Aldo Santini Jr.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Bill Berg" <Bill.Berg at vtcomposites.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 09:12:10 -0400
Subject: RE: hydroplane speed ?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of caudle1@charter.net
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2002 9:26 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: hydroplane speed ?
Took the bj8 to the alignment shop ( use to go there as teenager ) where
this one man shop has successfully operated for 40 plus years. Don't know
how
he got around to asking me, but he ask me if I know how to determine
hydroplane speed ? Of course I didn't and of course he did. I thought I
would
ask the list if there is any fact to this. To find hydroplane speed in one
inch of water, take the square root of your tire pressure times (X) nine
(9).
Here is his example, tire pressure of 36psi= square root of 6, multiply x 9=
54 mph. What ya think?
Dave
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from a light she was sputtering and coughing and wheezing like crazy. I
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 09:20:46 -0400
Subject: sputtering
Steve
61 BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 09:43:22 -0500
Subject: bronze valve guides
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 07:05:52 -0700
Subject: Re: Valves for BJ8 (Long and complex)
Sounds like this problem may be specific to certain engines (Chrysler 3.0
V6 and MGB). It's not unheard-of for only certain types of engines to
have problems with certain components, fuels, additives, etc. Just yesterday
Click & Clack posted an article about 3.0L V6 Toyota engines (and some 4-cyls)
having a problem with oil sludge. Valve sticking due to buildup and improper
clearances is a recurring problem with Lycoming aircraft engines but not
(usually) Continental engines--but the big Continentals couldn't handle
synthetic
oil (Mobil AV1).
Has anybody had a problem with bronze guides in Healeys? I have over
40,000 miles on the BJ8 with bronze guides and have had absolutely no
problems with the valve train.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Hi Allen,
>
> Alan (Blue one Hundred) has covered most of the pertinent information on
> this subject however I feel that the question of bronze valve guides
> requires further comment.
>
> The following is a letter that I received after a considerable amount of
> research on the subject after encountering problems with Chrysler 3.0 V6
> and MGB engines fitted with bronze guides.
>
> I would strongly recommend cast iron guides only.
>
> October 6, 2000
>
> Att: Michael Salter
>
> Re: Valve Guide and Valve Seizure
>
> Dear Michael,
> As per our telephone conversation a few days ago regarding bronze
> valve guide seizure in cast iron cylinder heads, please find an excerpt
> from a letter I sent to a manufacture company which produce bronze valve
> guides. I do not completely agree with the theory of carbon and scale
> build-up at the lower part of the valve stem area causing the valve to
> seize in the valve guide. We are in agreement with the theory of
> gasoline related problems with regards to the increased amount of
> Methanol and other additives introduced in the gasoline which in turn
> cause higher combustion temperatures. The resulting increase in
> combustion temperature can inhibit the engine lubricant's ability to
> perform many or all vital functions related to the valve system.
> Many of cylinder heads suffering from valve to valve guide seizures
> we frequently service already contain valve guides incorporating a
> carbon relief such as the Dodge Colt
> 2.0 liter as well as the Chrysler 3.0 V6. Upon detailed inspection and
> measurement we find the valve stem diameter of the valve remains stable
> but the inside diameter of the valve guide becomes smaller. Only the
> area of the valve guide which is encapsulated in the cylinder head
> casting has realized a reduction of the inside diameter, while the upper
> portion of the valve guide which protrudes above the casting in the
> valve spring area is unaffected. Measurements of the valve guide inside
> diameter at the upper area above the casting confirms proper clearance
> while measurement taken along the entire encapsulated length of the
> inside diameter of the valve guide area realizes substantial reductions
> in clearance.
> In virtually all cases the exhaust valves are the only valves
> affected by this phenomena with a higher degree of seizures occurring at
> exhaust valves residing in or close to heat cross over ports (GM 350
> CID, Chrly 360 CID). We have witnessed no spalling, galling or transfer
> of metals from the valve to the valve guide or vise versa. It is our
> belief that the fuel additives enhanced by increased combustion
> temperatures may allow certain lubricants to oxidize therefore coating
> the inside diameter of the valve guides with a hard varnish type residue
> which slowly reduces clearance and ultimately creates valve seizure in
> supplement to the inside diameter of the guides to collapse because the
> guides are expanding at a greater rate than the head casting.
>
>
>
>
> Respectfully yours,
>
>
>
> Aldo Santini Jr.
>
>
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 17:50:57 -0700
Subject: Re: bronze valve guides
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Mr. Finespanner
To: ash173@frontiernet.net
Cc: healey list
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 7:43 AM
Subject: bronze valve guides
Allen,
As Mike demonstrated with Aldo's letter, do NOT use manganese-
bronze valve guides! If you must have bronze, use silicone-bronze.
The manganese can constrict in the ID with use, resulting in seized
valves and other problems. One of Aldo's guides seized so hard in
my engine that the pushrod actually broke. You are better off with
regular steel guides.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 07:52:53 -0700
Subject: AH body source
Ken Freese
Bill,
Jensen made the bodies and trimmed them through to the end and shipped them
to a BMC facility to finish. The assembly facility was switched from
Longbridge to Abingdon early in the 100-6's.
Ken Freese
65 3000
"A chap from the Austin Healey contingent was bewailing the welded body
construction of the big Healeys and commented that these rust prone and
difficult to restore structures were constructed by Jensen. I responded that
the bodies were in fact built at Abingdon, and provided to Jensen to pain
and assemble, but that it anyone was to blame for any bodily deficiencies,
it was BMC. He demurred, but I checked and I was right, at least through the
100-6 era. Does anyone know if complete bodies continued to be provided to
Jensen for trimming and finishing right through the production period?"
Bill
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Nick G." <nickeg at northridge.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 11:03:07 -0400
Subject: Re: sputtering
Nick
"Kocik, Stephen W" wrote:
>
> Hi listers.. I need some help. I was out for a ride last night, it was a
> great night for a drive here in the north east.. I noticed a slight miss
> around 4 to 5 grand when I was just getting into her, this has been a
> problem for awhile. Later, on my way back from the golf course when I
> turned on the lights I felt her start to miss. Then when I was pulling out
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 11:27:26 -0400
Subject: RE: Valves for BJ8 (Long and complex)
Thanks for your notes.
I actually don't have a whole lot of experience with any sort of bronze
guides however I do know that I have them in my Bugeye racer and they
have never given any problems.
It took me a while to actually get a handle on what the real problem was
when we encountered this.
As I figure it the cause is the different expansion coefficients of cast
iron and whatever bronze is used and the U.T.S. of the bronze.
My old Machinery Handbook 1976 lists all brass and bronze as having a
coefficient of 0.0001 and cast iron as 0.0000065.
I suspect that the problem also only rears its ugly head when localized
overheating occurs.
In our MGB case the car was fitted with a 45 DCOE. And it turned out
that there was a restricted main jet in one choke. The result was that
the engine ran really hot on #s 3 & 4, you could tell from the plugs.
Hot enough I believe to cause the guide to be permanently deformed as a
result of its expansion. Interestingly the problem actually occurred
when the driver lifted off to go down a hill after cruising along at
medium throttle. I suspect that the guide cooled down enough to
constrict onto the valve stem. Popped the push rod out of the lifter and
punched the valve head through the top of #4 piston.
To answer your thoughts Chris I suspect that the same thing could happen
to any engine under the correct combination of circumstances. It would
be hard to get two more technically different engines than the Mitsi 3.0
V6 used in the Chryslers and a BMC "B" series.
IMHO bronze guides in any multi carb engine is a recipe for disaster as
it is not too hard to get a lean mixture, hence seriously elevated
combustion temperatures, in 2 or 3 cylinders while the engine will still
run fairly well.
Cast iron has worked well for many, many years and I can't think if any
manufacture who installs bronze as standard equipment.(Could stand
corrected there). I bet they have a better reason than just cost.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: 21-May-02 10:06 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Valves for BJ8 (Long and complex)
Michael,
Sounds like this problem may be specific to certain engines (Chrysler
3.0
V6 and MGB). It's not unheard-of for only certain types of engines to
have problems with certain components, fuels, additives, etc. Just
yesterday
Click & Clack posted an article about 3.0L V6 Toyota engines (and some
4-cyls)
having a problem with oil sludge. Valve sticking due to buildup and
improper
clearances is a recurring problem with Lycoming aircraft engines but not
(usually) Continental engines--but the big Continentals couldn't handle
synthetic
oil (Mobil AV1).
Has anybody had a problem with bronze guides in Healeys? I have over
40,000 miles on the BJ8 with bronze guides and have had absolutely no
problems with the valve train.
Bob
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 08:45:38 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 starting problems when hot
I have had a similar situation with the starter in my BT7 awhile back.
You didn't say whether or not the commutator was machined when the starter
re-build was done. If not, it could be as simple as the new brushes bedding
in to the commutator surface and occasionally not making sufficient contact.
If that is the case, just drive it! As the brushes bed in, the problem will
disappear on it's own.
Of course, the advice from the other postings should be followed as well,
particularly the battery post cleaning, and double checking all of the
chassis ground connections (battery master switch/chassis cable, and the
braided engine/frame ground strap near the starter) Make sure that there's
no paint under the terminals. It also wouldn't hurt to make sure that the
starter/engine rear plate interface is paint free (bolts too) - the starter
is grounded through this mounting.
Fun, isn't it!
Cheers
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Ehn" <peter.ehn@frontwalker.com>
To: "Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 1:55 AM
Subject: BJ8 starting problems when hot
Hi folks,
I have just got my BJ8 back on the street after a 2 year overhaul (replacing
rusty panels, replacing top, engine out to fix engine-bay, re-painting
etc.).
It is a GREAT thrill to have it out nice and shiny again in the Swedish
spring weather, but... I have one problem:
When the engine is turned off when hot (=normal hot) and I try to start it
again the starter sometimes does not work. When I turn the key all that
happens is a small "click", I'm not even sure if the solenoid connects.
When the engine is cool the starter turns over with full force and the
engine starts easily, so I know I have enough battery, connections etc.
It seems to me that when something gets warm/hot the electrical connections
"turn bad".
I am not all that good at electrical issues, so any good ideas of what to
check and how to do it are welcome.
PS. During the overhaul of the car I had the starter apart and replaced the
field coil (it was burnt) and the brushes with Lucas originals at an old
car-electrical specialist shop. He did a good job, tested it in his shop,
and as said, it works fine when engine is cool.
Thanks, Peter Ehn
********************************************************
Peter Ehn, 1967 BJ8-42208
Eloppevdgen 36, 168 56 Bromma
Sweden
tel: +46 (0)708 33 72 97
email peter.ehn@frontwalker.com
********************************************************
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 09:22:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Forwarded: valves for BJ8
I rebuilt my BJ8 engine in 1984, just as leaded fuel was being phased out.
There was a crack in the head between two adjacent valves, so at least two
new seats were needed. I made the decision to install 12 hardened seats and
to run the car exclusively on unleaded fuel from the get-go.
Silicone-bronze guides were used - the engine re-builder thought that the
wear factor would be better. An additive was used in the fuel for the first
couple of tankfulls only, during the break-in.
The engine now has just about 100,000 miles on it and has run flawlessly
throughout, with no appreciable valve seat recession apparent - still runs
strong and is not using any appreciable amount of oil (except for leaks, of
course!)
I should mention that standard valves were used - couldn't find any
stellited or otherwise hardened valves at the time. Also, I have never paid
much attention to what goes into the gas tank or used any additives (other
than as previously mentioned at break-in.) I've had to run on low octane
gas, old gas, etc. etc. - we have travelled a lot in that car - you never
know what you're going to have to fill up with when you're in the boonies!
My understanding is that if there is going to be wear at the valve/ valve
seat with unleaded fuel, its likely to be the seat itself - valve seat
recession. I would consider some form of hardened valve seats, and, for
sure, hardened exhaust valves. As to the guides, if you have any doubts, or
are getting differing opinions, go with the original iron guides as has been
suggested.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
------- Start of forwarded message -------
From: "Allen S Hodder" <ash173@frontiernet.net>
Subject: valves for BJ8
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 04:10:12 -0500
Hello, I'm about to replace my valves and valve guides. I was going to
order them thru Moss. I noticed that the exhaust valves they have to
offer are stellite faced. My question is this, does anything special
have to be done to the head for this application. I plan on having the
seat surface touched up before replacing. Also, what kind of valve guide
should I buy, manganese-bronze? Or does that even matter, would buying
the cheaper ones be ok? I have 3 tractors, built in 1945, 1948 and 1950.
I farmed on the side for almost 30 years. Since regular gas became
unavailable, I used unleaded and added a lead substitute. The tractor
engines seem to run just fine by doing this. I could use the old valves
again, but I want to put in new stuff every chance I get. Your comments
are greatly appreciated.
Al
BJ8L35791
------- End of forwarded message -------
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 09:43:46 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 starting problems when hot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Ehn" <peter.ehn@frontwalker.com>
To: "Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 1:55 AM
Subject: BJ8 starting problems when hot
> Hi folks,
> I have just got my BJ8 back on the street after a 2 year overhaul
(replacing rusty panels, replacing top, engine out to fix engine-bay,
re-painting etc.).
> It is a GREAT thrill to have it out nice and shiny again in the Swedish
spring weather, but... I have one problem:
>
> When the engine is turned off when hot (=normal hot) and I try to start it
again the starter sometimes does not work. When I turn the key all that
happens is a small "click", I'm not even sure if the solenoid connects.
> When the engine is cool the starter turns over with full force and the
engine starts easily, so I know I have enough battery, connections etc.
>
> It seems to me that when something gets warm/hot the electrical
connections "turn bad".
>
> I am not all that good at electrical issues, so any good ideas of what to
check and how to do it are welcome.
>
> PS. During the overhaul of the car I had the starter apart and replaced
the field coil (it was burnt) and the brushes with Lucas originals at an old
car-electrical specialist shop. He did a good job, tested it in his shop,
and as said, it works fine when engine is cool.
>
> Thanks, Peter Ehn
>
> ********************************************************
> Peter Ehn, 1967 BJ8-42208
> Eloppevdgen 36, 168 56 Bromma
> Sweden
> tel: +46 (0)708 33 72 97
> email peter.ehn@frontwalker.com
> ********************************************************
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 09:41:55 -0700
Subject: Re: Running Temperature
I'll BEAR with you for awhile!
I had to have my BJ8 rad re-cored a few years ago, and chose to use a
thicker core (extra row of cooling tubes). Long story short - the car then
ran way too cool! Had to remove the Texas cooler fan and re-install the
original 2 bladed one - still too cool.
Played around with thermostats, checked that the gauge was accurate etc.
etc.
Bottom line, the engine wanted to run at 180 - 185 to run well at all. I
now run a 195 thermostat, engine runs between 180 - 190 even in real hot
weather and at altitude, and is very happy.
So, even though it may be hard for you to BEAR the thought, my problem has
been to keep the BJ8 running hot enough! Better check your gauge and up
your thermostat!
Lots of fun!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2002 7:56 PM
Subject: Running Temperature
In deference to the latest postings regarding the trip to Tahoe, please
BEAR with me on this;
I got my louvered bonnet installed on the 100-4 and went for the first
drive with it last Saturday. Here in the Pittsburgh area it was cloudy and
cool, with a little light rain here and there. Whilst on the PA turnpike,
cruising at ~60 mph, I noticed a slight hesitation which increased a bit
when
accelerating. Dropping the speed back down cleared the situation, and at
lower
speeds (anything lower than 60 mph) there was no hesitation. Now, the only
thing different from the last time I drove the car was the bonnet, and due
to
that, the engine running temperature. When I finally started to analyze the
situation I found the engine temp at 145 to 150 deg when the hesitation was
apparent. I never got to run at higher temperatures at the higher speeds.
Question: can this be caused by the engine running too cold? What a
concept!! I haven't seen temps on my car like this since I bought it, and,
as
mentioned above, there was NOTHING else done in this time frame.
I'll appreciate any answers on- or off-list; again a Healey running too
cold - I couldn't BEAR the thought!!
Thanks in advance,
Charley Braum
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 13:05:53 -0400
Subject: RE: Prince of Darkness and other thoughts
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Andy Phillips
Sent: 20-May-02 5:44 PM
To: Healey-List (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Prince of Darkness and other thoughts
No other country would consider building a car that had the distributor
at
the front ready to take all the water coming through the grille (ala
Mini,
Austin 1100/1300 variants ... but it's hardly a Lucas problem). The
problems
for Lucas, ironically, were worst when they moved outside of auto
electrics
and built the mechanical fuel injection for Triumph. Things were
exacerbated
under British Leyland's poor quality control.
I just got to think about the Britannia comment ... because the English
are
nautical, maybe that's why we refer to the drive shaft as a prop shaft,
or
is that just me?
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: N5572B@aol.com [mailto:N5572B@aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2002 10:14 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Prince of Darkness and other thoughts
Lucas may or may not deserve their reputation but I ask the question,
If Britannia rules the waves, why can't they build a car that will go
through
a puddle?
Cheers,
Dave
59 BT 7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 11:09:59 -0600
Subject: RE: Valves for BJ8 (Long and complex)
Like Earl my concern was unleaded gasoline, so I consulted with
several of the above as well as a few racers I knew. The changes I
made were: GMC hardened seats, stainless steel valves,
bronze-silicon valve guides, and GT rally springs the later to
offset the road/rally camshaft. I currently have 5000 miles on this
rebuild with no apparent problems. Each thousand miles I've checked
the plug colour, all seem to have the "normal standard colour";
mind you I replaced the original HD8's even after rebuilding them
with new HD8's,as the old were almost impossible to tune - 30 plus
years of abuse sometimes can not be corrected. In addition to
Earl's comments on various fuels (yes in the boonies you use what
is available) I normally use Shell premium, as Michael pointed out
about two years ago, and I know from studies here, that Shell
premium reduces valve seat recession better than any other fuel on
the Canadian market given the additives.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 13:29:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Running Temperature
Since we are discussing radiators, temp, etc. I live in Houston and belong to
the Gulf Coast region AHCA. At a meeting last year I spoke with a member about
his radiator, and he had said that it was recored with a double or triple row
aluminum core...and done by someone locally. It could have been brass/copper
but I think he said aluminum. If that person is on this list, or someone that
knows him, could you please forward me the info on where this work was
performed.
Just in case, is anyone else familiar with a place in Houston that can do this
for me...without misplacing things like mounting tabs, etc?
Thanks,
Chris
BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 14:17:29 EDT
Subject: Re: hydroplane speed ?
<<
Actually, if I recall correctly (always suspect :), the formula was closer
to 8.5 times the square root of tire pressure. >>
As I found when racing, when the track gets wet, you want to add pressure to
your tires to improve handling -- which seemed counterintuitive to me until I
tested it both ways. Now I usually go up at least five pounds all the way
around to run in the wet.
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 11:22:43 -0700
Subject: Re: Valves for BJ8 (Long and complex)
FYI: I also use Shell premium (91 octane - maybe 92, can't remember!) - have
done so for most, if not all of the mileage since the re-build.
We have 94 octane available at selected Chevron dealers (and some
PetroCanada as well) here in B.C. Tried it a few times - engine definitely
runs better on the 91!
The thing to watch for if your going to have valve seat recession is
narrowing valve clearances. When you check the valves and the gap narrows
(gets smaller), that valve is 'sinking' upward into its seat . I watched
like a hawk after the switch to unleaded and had nothing happen. The times
that I have had to actually adjust them have been very rare all along, a
sure sign that the head is basically healthy on the unleaded fuel.
Cheers, ------------ Earl
----- Original Message -----
From: "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 10:09 AM
Subject: RE: Valves for BJ8 (Long and complex)
Michael, Doug, Steve, Earl and others
Like Earl my concern was unleaded gasoline, so I consulted with
several of the above as well as a few racers I knew. The changes I
made were: GMC hardened seats, stainless steel valves,
bronze-silicon valve guides, and GT rally springs the later to
offset the road/rally camshaft. I currently have 5000 miles on this
rebuild with no apparent problems. Each thousand miles I've checked
the plug colour, all seem to have the "normal standard colour";
mind you I replaced the original HD8's even after rebuilding them
with new HD8's,as the old were almost impossible to tune - 30 plus
years of abuse sometimes can not be corrected. In addition to
Earl's comments on various fuels (yes in the boonies you use what
is available) I normally use Shell premium, as Michael pointed out
about two years ago, and I know from studies here, that Shell
premium reduces valve seat recession better than any other fuel on
the Canadian market given the additives.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 14:02:02 -0400
Subject: OD Parts Help
Just finished debugging a problem with my OD and determined it to be the
Operating Solenoid and needs to be replaced. Moss has them on backorder
until late June. Does anyone have an extra one (new or used in good
operating condition) and willing to part with it at a fair price? I can
also use the solenoid-to-bracket and plate cover gaskets. Please contact me
off list. Thanks in advance for your help.
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
HealeyFest 2002 is coming to Galena, IL August 23-25. Visit:
http://communities.msn.com/AustinHealeyClub/healeyfest2002.msnw
for more information
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Pollock <wjpollock at erols.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 16:14:35 -0400
Subject: car arrival-Lake Tahoe
Thanks-Bill Pollock
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 16:39:38 -0400
Subject: car arrival-Lake Tahoe
Bill,
I just checked the Open Roads website and there is now an update link with
FAQ's that will answer your question. Go to www.healey2002.com/faqs.html
Regards,
Scot
'66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John May <jdmay at attglobal.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 16:51:50 -0400
Subject: Tahoe Infomration
The site is http://www.healey2002.com
John May
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 08:30:37 +1000
Subject: Donald Healey's trophy cabinet auction - this Friday 24th May
Their website is http://www.Bigwoodauctioneers.co.uk
Contact is Celia Ironmonger. Tel: 0044 1789 269 415, Fax: 0044 1789 294 168.
Catalogue is http://www.bigwoodauctioneers.co.uk/fineart.asp
Healey family items include:
Lot 245, Mahogany Boxed "Laundy" Trepaning Set. Belonged to Donald Healey's
father estimate #700 - #1000 sterling.
Lot 356 is early 20th century Mahogany cabinet bookcase with glass doors,
upper section. This was in the office with the desk.
Lot 357 (#400-#600 estimate) is what has been know as "DMH's Trophy Cabinet"
as seen on page 41 of DMH's book 'My World of Cars'. Described in auction as
The upper section of Victorian walnut inverted breakfront bookcase over 4
sections. This is such a lovely piece of furniture, very big, 3 metres long.
The partners' desk belonging to DMH and then GCH will be in the June sale on
28th June at Bigwood again. This will be in their catalogue and on their
website next month for viewing.
Speak to Celia Ironmonger if interested in bidding, read the descriptions
terms etc in the catalogue http://www.bigwoodauctioneers.co.uk/fineart.asp and
confirm items numbers etc before bidding.
I will have details of the automobila auction, to be held 25th July, 2002,
later today, and will email the url to the list
Good luck!!!
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 17:45:54 -0500
Subject: Re: car arrival-Lake Tahoe
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 19:06:39 EDT
Subject: Concours deductions
Roger
In a message dated 05/16/2002 7:17:43 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
andyp@cylogix.com writes:
> Re: Austin Healey 3000 Non-Adjustable Steering WheelsHow many points do you
> lose for chrome wire wheels?
>
First, if someone is planning on entering Concours after finishing their
restoration they really ought to purchase a copy of the Concours Committee
Guidelines. There is one version for BN1 - BJ8 and another for Sprites.
In the BN1 - BJ8 one at the back there is a copy of the score sheets that
gives detailed information on how much is up for deduction on each category
judged. Keep in mind that it is impossible to list each separate item on a
car so judges have to make flaw areas "fit" into one of the listed categories
if they aren't separately shown.
Under the category "Undercarriage and Suspension" the following standard
deductions are given:
Tires: Non-dunlop 5-90x15 bias ply -3
Any radial 165x15 or 175x15 -4
Any other size or type of tire -10
Wheels:
Spokes ---- loose spokes (no max deduction) -1 per spoke
broken or mising spokes -2 per
spoke
wheel types --
Dayton 48 or 60 spoke -5
Chrome (unless as-shipped) -10
(documentation required as proof)
Exception:
48 spoke chrome on BN1/2 accepted without deduction
60 spoke on BN1/2 or 48 on BJ8 -10
72 spoke wheels -10
Other non-original styles/sizes/types -20
Note: all points listed are out of 1000. Thus a 10 point deduction brings a
car's score down 1 point on a scale of 100.
Remember, Concours is focussed on showing how the cars were offered. Thus
originality is just as important, if not moreso, than qualitly of the
restoration. If you like 72 spoke wheels on lyour car, then by all means buy
thelm, but lshow you car in Popularity. That is where air conditioners,
speed control, etc. belong. This is not snobbery -- just trying to make
clear what the different types of "showing" are about.
Finally, I've seen manly members of this group ask qluestions that have
previously been answered not 2 months afterwards. Please save this posting
or, better yet, get a copy of the Guidelines.
Roger
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 19:16:14 -0700
Subject: Speedo
Guy G.
BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 01:09:31 +0100
Subject: Seat belt attachments on a BJ8
My BJ8, a US export re-imported into the UK, has lap-only seat belts.
They are attached to 'eyes' bolted through the floor and tunnel. The
workshop manual (AKD1179H) shows fixed bolts for these attachment
points, as well as for the top fixing on the wheel arch.
I am replacing the belts with lap & diagonal, and want to have a
sensibly UK-authentic installation.
The question is on the attachments. Are the eyes in the floor and tunnel
a US thing, or was this also done in the UK? I appreciate that belts
were fitted by the dealer, not the factory, so could have a local
flavour. And was the top fixing (on the wheel arch) generally an eye or
a fixed bolt? I can see the logic in all three being eyes, if you want
to remove the entire belt, but no logic in two unclippable eyes and one
fixed! Roger and Gary's book seems to show a fixed upper attachment,
though the photo is not entirely clear.
Does anyone know the general UK practice back in 1967? Given a choice,
I'd rather have my belts made 'correctly' (UK style), even if it means
discarding the existing eyes.
Thanks as ever for any help.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 20:55:56 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: AH body source
You may wish to check Larry Varley's web site:
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/ He has an article reproduced from
the March 1958 edition of Automobile Engineer. This article outlines
the procedures used by Jensen Motors Ltd. in fabricating the 100-6
shroud. It can be found at:
http://www.users.bigpond.com/acmefluid/jensenweld.html
I have attached a copy of the article in msword for you Ken. [The
attachment will be deleted from this email before being posted on the
Healey List]
Hope this helps your debate.
--- "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com> wrote: << There was a
discussion on the Jensen list. Bill says I am wrong. I say Bill is
wrong even though he says he is quoting Gerry Coker. Any mediators out
there? Ken Freese
Bill,
Jensen made the bodies and trimmed them through to the end and shipped
them to a BMC facility to finish. The assembly facility was switched
from Longbridge to Abingdon early in the 100-6's. Ken Freese 65 3000
"A chap from the Austin Healey contingent was bewailing the welded body
construction of the big Healeys and commented that these rust prone and
difficult to restore structures were constructed by Jensen. I
responded that the bodies were in fact built at Abingdon, and provided
to Jensen to paint and assemble, but that it anyone was to blame for
any bodily deficiencies, it was BMC. He demurred, but I checked and I
was right, at least through the 100-6 era. Does anyone know if complete
bodies continued to be provided to Jensen for trimming and finishing
right through the production period?" Bill >>
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Find, Connect, Date! http://personals.yahoo.ca
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a name
of jensenweld.doc]
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 18:27:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Valves for BJ8 (Long and complex)
Very interesting. I wonder, however... older engines
are designed to run at much lower temperatures than
modern motors, which may mean this will not be a
problem with healeys. Also, Healey heads don't have
cross over ports, which is also identified as a
contributor to this problem.
My BJ8 has been running bronze guides for 70K miles so
far (about 12 years now) with no signs of wear or
trouble. Of course, I use an octane boost & lead
additive which may help alleviate the problem as well
(??).
Probably either way you cut it with valve guides,
it'll be ok, just as long as they are new.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Michael Salter <magicare@rogers.com> wrote:
> Hi Allen,
>
> Alan (Blue one Hundred) has covered most of the
> pertinent information on
> this subject however I feel that the question of
> bronze valve guides
> requires further comment.
>
> The following is a letter that I received after a
> considerable amount of
> research on the subject after encountering problems
> with Chrysler 3.0 V6
> and MGB engines fitted with bronze guides.
>
> I would strongly recommend cast iron guides only.
>
> October 6, 2000
>
> Att: Michael Salter
>
> Re: Valve Guide and Valve Seizure
>
> Dear Michael,
> As per our telephone conversation a few days
> ago regarding bronze
> valve guide seizure in cast iron cylinder heads,
> please find an excerpt
> from a letter I sent to a manufacture company which
> produce bronze valve
> guides. I do not completely agree with the theory of
> carbon and scale
> build-up at the lower part of the valve stem area
> causing the valve to
> seize in the valve guide. We are in agreement with
> the theory of
> gasoline related problems with regards to the
> increased amount of
> Methanol and other additives introduced in the
> gasoline which in turn
> cause higher combustion temperatures. The resulting
> increase in
> combustion temperature can inhibit the engine
> lubricant's ability to
> perform many or all vital functions related to the
> valve system.
> Many of cylinder heads suffering from valve to
> valve guide seizures
> we frequently service already contain valve guides
> incorporating a
> carbon relief such as the Dodge Colt
> 2.0 liter as well as the Chrysler 3.0 V6. Upon
> detailed inspection and
> measurement we find the valve stem diameter of the
> valve remains stable
> but the inside diameter of the valve guide becomes
> smaller. Only the
> area of the valve guide which is encapsulated in the
> cylinder head
> casting has realized a reduction of the inside
> diameter, while the upper
> portion of the valve guide which protrudes above the
> casting in the
> valve spring area is unaffected. Measurements of the
> valve guide inside
> diameter at the upper area above the casting
> confirms proper clearance
> while measurement taken along the entire
> encapsulated length of the
> inside diameter of the valve guide area realizes
> substantial reductions
> in clearance.
> In virtually all cases the exhaust valves are
> the only valves
> affected by this phenomena with a higher degree of
> seizures occurring at
> exhaust valves residing in or close to heat cross
> over ports (GM 350
> CID, Chrly 360 CID). We have witnessed no spalling,
> galling or transfer
> of metals from the valve to the valve guide or vise
> versa. It is our
> belief that the fuel additives enhanced by increased
> combustion
> temperatures may allow certain lubricants to oxidize
> therefore coating
> the inside diameter of the valve guides with a hard
> varnish type residue
> which slowly reduces clearance and ultimately
> creates valve seizure in
> supplement to the inside diameter of the guides to
> collapse because the
> guides are expanding at a greater rate than the head
> casting.
>
>
>
>
> Respectfully yours,
>
>
>
> Aldo Santini Jr.
>
>
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com/
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 18:36:57 -0700
Subject: Bumper packing question
Would appreciate any experience-based guidance.
Thank you in advance.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 18:37:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: sputtering
It sounds like you have a partially corroded primary
ignition wire or a partially corroded connection to
your primary ignition wire somewhere.
As the electrical load is increased in your car, the
voltage potential drops slightly... and if there's
some corrosion on your primary wire somewhere it may
be just enough to cause your problem.
Also, at high RPMs... this draws significantly more
current through the primary ignition wire... and if
there is any corrosion here the wire around the
corroded area will heat up increasing the resistance
across the corrosion causing your missing.
Next time you take the car out... drive it for a while
and check your primary ignition wire along it's entire
length (the white wire from your ignition switch to
your coil). If there are any spots (particularly
around connections) where it is hot to the touch, this
means the wire or the connection needs to be cleaned
or replaced.
With the primary wire, I'd highly suggest using high
quality copper wire with properly soldered
connections. There is no wire in a healey that takes
more punishment than this wire... it should be as
properly set up as any in the whole car.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>
wrote:
> Hi listers.. I need some help. I was out for a ride
> last night, it was a
> great night for a drive here in the north east.. I
> noticed a slight miss
> around 4 to 5 grand when I was just getting into
> her, this has been a
> problem for awhile. Later, on my way back from the
> golf course when I
> turned on the lights I felt her start to miss. Then
> when I was pulling out
> from a light she was sputtering and coughing and
> wheezing like crazy. I
> pulled over, cut the lights, and checked for loose
> wires around the
> distributor. Nothing.. So I pulled out without my
> lights on, back to the
> miss at 4 to 5 grand. As soon as I pull on the
> lights real bad sputtering
> under load. So... It would appear I have some type
> of short in my lighting
> circuit. Can anyone help with a method of debugging
> this problem? I know,
> don't drive at night... ;-) TIA.
>
> Steve
> 61 BN7
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 18:38:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: bronze valve guides
Sorry for the email spam!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net>
wrote:
> Allen,
> As Mike demonstrated with Aldo's letter, do NOT use
> manganese-
> bronze valve guides! If you must have bronze, use
> silicone-bronze.
> The manganese can constrict in the ID with use,
> resulting in seized
> valves and other problems. One of Aldo's guides
> seized so hard in
> my engine that the pushrod actually broke. You are
> better off with
> regular steel guides.
> Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 21:49:27 -0400
Subject: bj8 parts list
Reguards,
Carroll Phillips
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 18:50:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Seat belt attachments on a BJ8
As far as I understand it, the belt attachment points
were fitted as standard on all BJ8s.
As far as the upper attachment goes (for the three
point belts - located on the rear wheel well), BJ8s
came with two different styles. There's an earlier
BJ8 two-bolt style (shared with older 3000s), and
later BJ8s had a one bolt swiveling hookup style. If
you have the two bolt fixed style, you can buy an
original style belt attachment piece from Kilmartin in
Australia (you'll need to fashion a metal piece to fix
the belt with Kilmartin's thing). If you have the
later style one bolt attachment, most standard three
point hookups will bolt right up.
I'd highly suggest getting Moss's three point clip-in
chrome buckle belts. These are as authentic as
anything put in healey's in 1967 (they look great),
and are a breeze to install. Putting in any other
type of belt is exceptionally difficult as you need to
remove the seat to get to the belt's fixing loop
between the seat and the outrigger.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Alan F Cross <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> (Maybe more readily answered by UK listers, but
> others' input will
> help!)
>
> My BJ8, a US export re-imported into the UK, has
> lap-only seat belts.
> They are attached to 'eyes' bolted through the floor
> and tunnel. The
> workshop manual (AKD1179H) shows fixed bolts for
> these attachment
> points, as well as for the top fixing on the wheel
> arch.
>
> I am replacing the belts with lap & diagonal, and
> want to have a
> sensibly UK-authentic installation.
>
> The question is on the attachments. Are the eyes in
> the floor and tunnel
> a US thing, or was this also done in the UK? I
> appreciate that belts
> were fitted by the dealer, not the factory, so could
> have a local
> flavour. And was the top fixing (on the wheel arch)
> generally an eye or
> a fixed bolt? I can see the logic in all three being
> eyes, if you want
> to remove the entire belt, but no logic in two
> unclippable eyes and one
> fixed! Roger and Gary's book seems to show a fixed
> upper attachment,
> though the photo is not entirely clear.
>
> Does anyone know the general UK practice back in
> 1967? Given a choice,
> I'd rather have my belts made 'correctly' (UK
> style), even if it means
> discarding the existing eyes.
>
> Thanks as ever for any help.
> --
> Alan Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From <caudle1 at charter.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 21:54:07 -0400
Subject: ride height
Left front 28'' right front 27.5''
Left rear 27.25'' right rear 28''
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 19:45:06 -0700
Subject: 1st Gear Problems
Kenny
61 BT-7
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 20:07:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Bumper packing question
The packing serves to space your bumper out from your
car so that your overriders don't interfere with the
up and down motion of the boot lid. It also is used
to line up the bumper with the body of your car if
your bumper brackets are a little irregular.
If your bumper ends are "drooping", that means your
bumper ends are twisted or the ends of your bumper
brackets are twisted. Packing won't fix this.
If you have one of those crappy repro bumpers on your
car (like I have on the back of my BJ8, regretfully),
a good solid tug upwards on the end with your hand
will probably fix the "droop".
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com> wrote:
> Hello Listers,
> Re: Ft bumper "packing", pg 189, item #4 in current
> Moss catalog:
> Do these allow you to rotate your bumpers upward so
> they're level at the
> ends and don't droop?
>
> Would appreciate any experience-based guidance.
>
> Thank you in advance.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Stella67 at aol.com
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 23:16:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Valves for BJ8 (Long and complex)
My suggestion is that when restoring a car, you should always look at the
quality of the product being installed and the reputation of the mechanic
doing the installation. We all make mistakes and it is very easy to blame the
product without knowing the total story.
Just my two cents - or less.
John
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 17:40:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Speedo
There is no electric function inside your speedo, only the illumination
lamp, the high beam lamp, and a ground.
The illumination lamp is fed by the red/white wire(runs from gauge to
gauge) - plug the lamp/socket assembly into the top hole in the back of the
speedo. Plug the other one into the bottom hole (can't remember the wire
colours). The ground is a ring terminal - black wire or wires, and simply
is placed under one of the little thumb screws that go through the gauge
securing bracket to fasten the gauge into the dash.
Let us know if the whole damn thing works - you've been at it awhile!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 7:16 PM
Subject: Speedo
Hi Everyone,
Am getting my speedo back and remembered that when I took it out of the dash
the connections looked more like a birds nest then simple wiring. Is it safe
to say that everything runs in series from one gauge to the next?
Any help or simple diagram would be appreciated.
Guy G.
BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ira Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 20:54:12 -0700
Subject: RE: ride height
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of caudle1@charter.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 6:54 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: ride height
With recent discussions on distance from ground to top of fender, I
measured
my bj8. I can understand one side or one end of car being different, however
mine has me puzzled. How can I be uneven from corner to corner? Note I
recently had the "Fahrspass" Bilstein shocks installed.
Thanks Dave
Left front 28'' right front 27.5''
Left rear 27.25'' right rear 28''
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From JSoderling at aol.com
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 00:09:00 EDT
Subject: Re: car arrival-Lake Tahoe answer
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "patrick harris" <rotaryman at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 23:03:52 -0700
Subject: Re: car arrival-Lake Tahoe answer
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 18:20:48 +1000
Subject: Re: 1st Gear Problems
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
| While accelerating in 1st gear, my transmission would "knock" loudly as th
| RPM's increase. This didn't occur in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear. I have my
| engine and tranny out of the car. I getting ready to disassemble the
| tranny. Does anyone know what could have been causing the "knocking"?
What
| should I look for? Should I replace 1st gear? Thanks.
|
| Kenny
| 61 BT-7
|
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Gary R. Brierton" <gbrierton at hotmail.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 07:51:17 -0400
Subject: re:ride height
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 12:50:10 +0100
Subject: Seat belt buckles on my BJ8
Here are some photos, showing the buckles marked MG and Austin Healey. I
suspect this is some US after-market wannabe product, rather than
something of genuine Austin Healey association. I do, however, believe
they are the belts that were delivered with the car in Virginia in 1967.
Can anybody tell me anything more from these photos?
http://www.proaxis.demon.co.uk/healey/
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Fred Hunter <fhunter at kcnet.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 07:31:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Attending without an official entry
Patrick:
Aw, heck...come on along! It's gonna be pandemonium out there, anyway.
If it's like usual, anybody can just walk in to view the Popularity,
ConCours, autocross, speed runs, etc. (What?...you think they're gonna
keep the public OUT?) And with that many folks there, I'm sure you'll
be able to find groups of Healey owners in nearby bars & restaurants
nearly anytime.
The only things one needs a ticket or entry for would be to COMPETE in
the events, and the awards dinner.
Be sure to at least bring PICTURES of your car to bore other Healey
owners with. But as I'm sure you already know, we're all REALLY only
interested in pictures of our OWN cars! But we'll be polite and look at
yours, anyway. :-)
I'm sure you won't be the only one there who had to leave his Healey at
home!
Best regards,
Fred
Train approaching
Whistle squealing
Pause!
Avoid that
Rundown feeling!
--Burma-Shave--
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 08:54:20 -0400
Subject: RE: car arrival-Lake Tahoe
Couldn't resist>>>
Steve
61BN7
Does anyone on the list know what the arrangments will be for those of
us shipping cars to the hotels . Will the cars be off loaded into a
secure area? I am trying to coordinate getting there the same day
the truck is suppose to show up,but if he shows up a day early or some
sort, how will the car be handled if the owner has not arrived at the
hotel or should you plan on being there a day before the truck carrier
is due to arrive?
Thanks-Bill Pollock
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 11:32:56 EDT
Subject: Re: car arrival-Lake Tahoe
4. WHAT ABOUT CARS ARRIVING BY TRANSPORTER?
Cars arriving by transporter are to be dropped off in the area in front of
the lobby entrance. If you are shipping your car, please be sure to get an
arrival estimate from the driver of the transporter and be sure to be in the
lobby area at drop off time (or let a member of the lobby staff know where
you can be reached). You will be responsible for parking your car in the
appropriate section of the rear parking area. You will also be responsible
for arranging for the car to be picked up. Please be advised that the
Horizon will accept delivery of your car if you are not there, but will not
accept responsibility for your car once it is off-loaded.
David Nock
co/chaiman Healey International 2002
June 23/28 2002
Horizon Casino Resort
Lake Tahoe, Nevada
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main
Page</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 08:47:40 -0700
Subject: Re: Seat belt attachments on a BJ8
I would guess that the belts you show in the photos would have been a North
American dealer accesory version - there were a few different ones - likely
used in other British cars as well. Those are good belts, with the
aircraft-style buckles!
I have a set of three point belts in my BJ8. They were purchased in the
early 80's and made by Brittax(sp?) in the UK. They have an almost
identical eyebolt with the removeable latch system at the outboard side of
the seats, and at the tunnel, with a single special bolt and associated
hardware fastened into the boss on the rear quarter panel.
I believe that the reason for the removeable feature for these belts on the
BJ8 (probably the BJ7, as well) is to allow one to easily remove the
outboard fitting and pass it through the shoulder belt access flap in the
tonneau cover. I use mine that way as they are much more comfortable than
when simply routed under the tonneau to slide around on the seat back.
Of course, its more of a pain in the a** to use that way - you have to
unlatch / relatch the belt every time you want to install / remove the
tonneau cover! Kind of slows things down when it starts to pour with rain.
I figure that the factory knew something though - they did put the flaps in
the tonneau!
If it turns out that you can accept the belts that you have as being
accurate for a UK car, I believe that you could easily re-web them, and add
the shoulder portion hardware to the rear quarter panel.
Funnily enough, I have very similar two-point belts in my tri-carb - they're
not removeable, and they're a generic item, but they were installed when the
car was new by the first owner. I'm considering having them re-webbed and
using them as-is. I'm also considering going to a two-point system in the
BJ8 - less of a hassle, and I'm not convinced of the increased protection
afforded in a small, open sports car. Maybe we should swap! (my 3 -
pointers need re-webbing as well).
Keep us posted -----------------
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan F Cross" <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 5:09 PM
Subject: Seat belt attachments on a BJ8
(Maybe more readily answered by UK listers, but others' input will
help!)
My BJ8, a US export re-imported into the UK, has lap-only seat belts.
They are attached to 'eyes' bolted through the floor and tunnel. The
workshop manual (AKD1179H) shows fixed bolts for these attachment
points, as well as for the top fixing on the wheel arch.
I am replacing the belts with lap & diagonal, and want to have a
sensibly UK-authentic installation.
The question is on the attachments. Are the eyes in the floor and tunnel
a US thing, or was this also done in the UK? I appreciate that belts
were fitted by the dealer, not the factory, so could have a local
flavour. And was the top fixing (on the wheel arch) generally an eye or
a fixed bolt? I can see the logic in all three being eyes, if you want
to remove the entire belt, but no logic in two unclippable eyes and one
fixed! Roger and Gary's book seems to show a fixed upper attachment,
though the photo is not entirely clear.
Does anyone know the general UK practice back in 1967? Given a choice,
I'd rather have my belts made 'correctly' (UK style), even if it means
discarding the existing eyes.
Thanks as ever for any help.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 12:08:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Seat belt buckles on my BJ8
<< Further to my questions about seat belt attachments on a BJ8, I am now
considering whether to have the existing buckles re-webbed. >>
In vintage racing, we're encouraged to get our belts rewebbed every few
years. The manufacturers will tell you that the webbing loses its strength
over time and though it might not break, it will stretch more than you want
to move in a crash.
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 12:08:57 -0700
Subject: BT7 Rear Seat Belts?
Has anyone found a way to put rear seatbelts in a BT7?
tia,
Jim
'62 BT7 TriCarb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 15:20:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Attending without an official entry
Unless you are only planning on stopping one day and visitng the event please
register.
We have been working on this meet for 4 1/2 years and as of right now the
registrations are over 700 so those of you who have put on any meets can only
imagine what would happen if another large group show up that has not
registered.
David Nock
co/chaiman Healey International 2002
June 23/28 2002
Horizon Casino Resort
Lake Tahoe, Nevada
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main
Page</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 18:02:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Seat belt buckles on my BJ8
tom
-----Original Message-----
From: Alan F Cross <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, May 22, 2002 7:56 AM
Subject: Seat belt buckles on my BJ8
>Further to my questions about seat belt attachments on a BJ8, I am now
>considering whether to have the existing buckles re-webbed.
>
>Here are some photos, showing the buckles marked MG and Austin Healey. I
>suspect this is some US after-market wannabe product, rather than
>something of genuine Austin Healey association. I do, however, believe
>they are the belts that were delivered with the car in Virginia in 1967.
>
>Can anybody tell me anything more from these photos?
>
>http://www.proaxis.demon.co.uk/healey/
>
>--
>Alan Cross
>Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 18:06:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Seat belt buckles on my BJ8
TIA
tom
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, May 22, 2002 12:17 PM
Subject: Re: Seat belt buckles on my BJ8
>In a message dated 5/22/02 4:52:11 AM, alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk writes:
>
><< Further to my questions about seat belt attachments on a BJ8, I am now
>considering whether to have the existing buckles re-webbed. >>
>
>In vintage racing, we're encouraged to get our belts rewebbed every few
>years. The manufacturers will tell you that the webbing loses its strength
>over time and though it might not break, it will stretch more than you want
>to move in a crash.
>Cheers
>Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 16:21:21 -0700
Subject: 1st gear problems
Kenny
'61 BT-7
_________________________________________________________________
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 20:09:28 -0400
Subject: RE: 1st gear problems
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Kenny Johnson
Sent: 22-May-02 7:21 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: 1st gear problems
Thanks for the advice on my 1st gear problem. I opened the side cover
today, began to spin 1st gear, and found one of the teeth were broke
off.
In fact the broken piece was floating around the gearbox. Anyway....it
looks like I need a 1st gear. Does anyone know the BMC part # for 1st
gear?
Thanks.
Kenny
'61 BT-7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 20:38:09 -0400
Subject: Lucas Distributors
Thanks, Joe
55 Bn1
60 BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 17:50:18 -0700
Subject: Re: Lucas Distributors
On Wed, 22 May 2002 20:38:09 -0400, <healey27@mindspring.com> wrote:
:: Replaceing a Mallory duel point. Any recommendations?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 20:56:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Lucas Distributors
Can't agree more. The Lucas in my 60 BT7 has worked well for more than 10
years and I was talked into replacing Lucas with Mallory in my 55 BN1. Need a
complete Lucas replacement for the 55.
Thanks, Joe
On Wed, 22 May 2002 17:50:18 -0700 Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com> wrote:
A brace of flintlocks at 30 paces?
{Sorry, couldn't resist}
-Roland
On Wed, 22 May 2002 20:38:09 -0400, <healey27@mindspring.com> wrote:
:: Replaceing a Mallory duel point. Any recommendations?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 23:39:17 -0400
Subject: Fw: BN7 used parts for sale-long
THIS IS ONE LAST SHAMELESS FOR SALE LIST. DELETE NOW IF NOT INTERESTED. I
WILL NOT BOTHER THE LIST WITH THIS ANY FURTHER.
It has been a little over a month since I sent the inital list out. Here is
the current and final list of parts available from the WVa BN7. If you have
any interest in anything left contact me off line.
Thanks for looking
Keith Pennell
> PRICES: This is not an auction. First willing buyer at the price wins.
> Prices are low so I am firm on them. I am not trying to gouge anyone
here!
>All parts are sold AS IS and as described. If you want more description
email and I will >respond.
>
> SHIPPING: So you may estimate shipping my zip is 23602. Items will be
> shipped when payment is received, personal checks and money orders OK. In
> addition, a modest removal/packaging fee will be added to the shipping,
probably $5-10 on >most things.
>
> NOTE: Generally speaking all these items are not in the best of shape.
>
> front shroud - RF area has been replaced, poor weld job, needs some
> welding around left headlamp, repairs needed at
> attachment to frame $300
> engine - 29D/RU/H17094 Will not turn over. Missing generator and
intake
> manifold $200
> tranny and OD - gearbox #9024 condition unknown $200
> bumper bar, rear - straight! fair, considerable pitting on inside but
no
> rust through, usual scratches and dings $35
> gas tank - rusty outside but no apparent rust through, inside has some
> rust $20
> driveshaft with universals - complete but rusty $20
> radiator - core excellent appears to be very recently recored, rest is
> poor $75
> rear springs (pair) - very rusty, keepers orig but a couple decayed
> $75
> fender repair section - LF, good, from insert forward, underside
pitted,
> needs minor welding $25
> fender repair section - RF, from insert forward, underside pitted and
> needs minor welding $25
> panhard rod - rusty but no wear on ends $10
> 12 pushrods - $20
> aluminum dash - few minor dents, 4 holes need filled $10
> wiper motor with tranny and wheelboxes - complete but corroded $35
> steering idler - rusty arm attached, rebuildable? $20
> steering side rod - rusty $10
> steering lever - $5
> center rod with ends - rusty and slight bend $30
> steering box arm - rusty S & H
> U bolt plates - rear suspension S & H
> heater core - with stuck control valve, looks good $30
> 2 chrome headlamp rims - straight, nonorig, need plating $10
> distributor - DM6A with advance and vacuum tube, condition unknown, no
cap
> $75
> trunk latch and catch - $10
> 5-way connector - with brake light switch, front, Lucas terminals
$30
> 3-way connector - for rear brake pipes $15
> 2 brake pads - 1/4 inch lining S & H
> balance lever S & H
> angle drive - condition unknown $20
> steering wheel - with clamping nut, many cracks, rebuildable? $25
> side marker rubber boot - no tears, needs TLC S & H
> sending unit - do not know if it works, minor rust on float $40
> voltage regulator - no cover $15
> starter to frame and cutoff switch to frame ground straps - good
condition
> S & H
> blower motor and housing - works, large fiberglass patch, very
rusty
> metal S & H
> instrument panel molding - straight, some pitting $20
> trunk lid retaining cable S & H
> license plate bracket - rear, aluminum S & H
> license plate lamp assembly - very good with slight pitting $25
> 2 taillight lenses - with generic sockets, plastic, red, with aluminum
> bezels, slight distortion and scratching, no boots $10
> reflector - with bezel, flat, no rubber S & H
> fuse block - 1 screw missing $10
> dash grab handle - with escutcheon, pitting, broken studs $10
> wiper switch - good $10
> panel light switch - broken tang $10
> OD switch with bezel - switch is generic $10
> 2 position toggle switch - generic? S & H
> heater blower switch - works $25
> warning lamp bulb socket S & H
> oil/water gauge - broken capillary tube $20
> speedometer - for parts, very good needle and face $10
> tachometer - for parts S & H
> fuel gauge - condition unknown $50
> throttle relay shaft lever and rear carb throttle lever and 2 manifold
to
> carb studs - $15
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 22:48:06 -0500
Subject: Shameless attempt at commercialism-Concours Bugeye for sale
http://www.ezshots.com/members/bugide/
It goes on ebay tomorrow evening to see what happens. There will be a
whole lot of text in the ebay listing to explain some stuff but this is
the site for the pix.
Remember, bid early and bid often!!
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 528 (New census numbers)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 21:07:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Shameless attempt at commercialism-Concours Bugeye for sale
http://www.barrett-jackson.com/auctionresults/common/salesresults.asp?auctionid=42
note the gold level BJ8 went for $60K. An average
bugeye went for $10K. Maybe you'rs will top over $20K
there?
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Larry Dickstein <bugide@solve.net> wrote:
> Here's your chance to see my offering before the
> rest of the free world
> does:
>
> http://www.ezshots.com/members/bugide/
>
> It goes on ebay tomorrow evening to see what
> happens. There will be a
> whole lot of text in the ebay listing to explain
> some stuff but this is
> the site for the pix.
>
> Remember, bid early and bid often!!
>
> --
> Larry Dickstein
> Lone Jack, MO
>
> Pop. 528 (New census numbers)
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 21:31:18 -0700
Subject: Re: Shameless attempt at commercialism-Concours Bugeye for sale
See:
http://www.barrett-jackson.com/auctionresults/common/cardetail.asp?id=168874
What gives? Some sort of "export" model? Or is it misrepresented on this page?
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Nothing shameless about that bugeye. wow... amazing.
> I wish you the maximum price possible. If ebay doesn't
> work out, you should sell it at the Barret Jackson
> Auction in Las Vegas... you'd probably get 50-100%
> premium over a top dollar Bugeye. Check out the last
> auction results:
>
>
>http://www.barrett-jackson.com/auctionresults/common/salesresults.asp?auctionid=42
>
> note the gold level BJ8 went for $60K. An average
> bugeye went for $10K. Maybe you'rs will top over $20K
> there?
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 00:39:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Shameless attempt at commercialism-Concours Bugeye for sale
GM
----- Original Message -----
> Here's your chance to see my offering before the rest of the free world
> does:
>
> http://www.ezshots.com/members/bugide/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 21:48:45 -0700
Subject: Front Suspension Positive Camber (revisited)
Just gone done replacing the nylon/graphite front suspension bushings
with "stock" steel/rubber, and the positive camber appears to be less.
I'm guessing it's 2-3 degrees (still too much, I know).
Anyway, I'm theorizing the stiffer (nylon) bushings exaggerated the camber,
not allowing the suspension to "settle" to a more normal configuration.
I wouldn't recommend the nylon bushings to anyone (except maybe a
racer).
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 21:53:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Phase I to Phase II BJ8 clarification
This BJ8 is actually correct (although a bit too shiny
for OEM!) . My early '66 has white combined
parking/turn signals on it. They didn't put the
seperate amber turn signals on the cars until about
car number 30,000 or so.
Alot of healey owners don't realize that the switch
from Phase I to Phase II BJ8s WASN'T when they changed
the turn signal set up. The Phase I to Phase II
switch related to the big change in rear suspension
(panhard rod to radius arms & stiffer springs). These
early phase II BJ8s also share the same rear shroud
with the BJ7, not later BJ8s.
Probably about 5,000 Phase II's were produced with the
single white lensed combined front turn signal/parking
lights up front (super early Phase IIs used the
BJ7/BT7 style turn signal lights). If your car is an
early Phase II and has amber lenses on the front, it's
probably not original.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8 (Early Phase II)
--- Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net> wrote:
> I always thought a "BJ8 Phase II" had the amber turn
> lights???
>
> See:
>
>
http://www.barrett-jackson.com/auctionresults/common/cardetail.asp?id=168874
>
>
> What gives? Some sort of "export" model? Or is it
> misrepresented on this page?
>
>
> Bob
>
>
*****************************************************
> Bob Spidell
> bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> San Jose, CA.
> robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
> PP/ASEL
>
*****************************************************
>
>
> > Nothing shameless about that bugeye. wow...
> amazing.
> > I wish you the maximum price possible. If ebay
> doesn't
> > work out, you should sell it at the Barret Jackson
> > Auction in Las Vegas... you'd probably get 50-100%
> > premium over a top dollar Bugeye. Check out the
> last
> > auction results:
> >
> >
>
http://www.barrett-jackson.com/auctionresults/common/salesresults.asp?auctionid=42
> >
> > note the gold level BJ8 went for $60K. An average
> > bugeye went for $10K. Maybe you'rs will top over
> $20K
> > there?
> >
> > Alan
> >
> > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 22:02:13 -0700
Subject: Lempert Differential
I've put a few miles on the Lemp Diff and overall I'm really pleased.
First is usable, finally :)
Second is still a tad low, WRT first (good for sharp cornering, though).
Can cruise around town in third more, with less shifting to third-o/d or
fourth.
One interesting, unanticipated side-effect: engine braking seems to be
noticably less effective, especially in top (have to lift a little sooner)
Now, if Michael will just get to work on the 28% overdrive gears :)
Oh, yeah ... now I want more POWER
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 22:05:30 -0700
Subject: Re: Phase I to Phase II BJ8 clarification
Thanks! Learned something ... (yep, I'm one of the owners that thought
the amber lights came with Phase II BJ8s).
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>; "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2002 9:53 PM
Subject: Phase I to Phase II BJ8 clarification
> Bob -
>
> This BJ8 is actually correct (although a bit too shiny
> for OEM!) . My early '66 has white combined
> parking/turn signals on it. They didn't put the
> seperate amber turn signals on the cars until about
> car number 30,000 or so.
>
> Alot of healey owners don't realize that the switch
> from Phase I to Phase II BJ8s WASN'T when they changed
> the turn signal set up. The Phase I to Phase II
> switch related to the big change in rear suspension
> (panhard rod to radius arms & stiffer springs). These
> early phase II BJ8s also share the same rear shroud
> with the BJ7, not later BJ8s.
>
> Probably about 5,000 Phase II's were produced with the
> single white lensed combined front turn signal/parking
> lights up front (super early Phase IIs used the
> BJ7/BT7 style turn signal lights). If your car is an
> early Phase II and has amber lenses on the front, it's
> probably not original.
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8 (Early Phase II)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 22:10:14 -0700
Subject: Re: Phase I to Phase II BJ8 clarification
A "purist" (or minimalist?) might argue the early Phase II BJ8s are more
appealing-looking, without the "extra" amber lights "cluttering" up the lines
(like the older cars). I'd be hard-pressed to argue ...
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Bob -
>
> This BJ8 is actually correct (although a bit too shiny
> for OEM!) . My early '66 has white combined
> parking/turn signals on it. They didn't put the
> seperate amber turn signals on the cars until about
> car number 30,000 or so.
>
> Alot of healey owners don't realize that the switch
> from Phase I to Phase II BJ8s WASN'T when they changed
> the turn signal set up. The Phase I to Phase II
> switch related to the big change in rear suspension
> (panhard rod to radius arms & stiffer springs). These
> early phase II BJ8s also share the same rear shroud
> with the BJ7, not later BJ8s.
>
> Probably about 5,000 Phase II's were produced with the
> single white lensed combined front turn signal/parking
> lights up front (super early Phase IIs used the
> BJ7/BT7 style turn signal lights). If your car is an
> early Phase II and has amber lenses on the front, it's
> probably not original.
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8 (Early Phase II)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from a friend in LA.
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 23:10:51 -0700
Subject: sprite for sale
Dear Ron,
I am interested in selling my 1961 Bug Eye Sprite. It had a ground up
restoration about 7 years ago in Old English white with Red Connelly leather
seats. The motor is a 1275 cc with disc front brakes and wire wheels. The
condition; is an excellent driver with super performance. I would like
$12,000. The reason for selling is that I have just purchased another car
and have no more garage space.
Stan Bauer
tel 310-874-5398
"Stanley Bauer" sbauer@lodis.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 23:12:54 -0700
Subject: Re: Running Temperature
Earl Kagna wrote:
> Charley:
>
> I'll BEAR with you for awhile!
>
> I had to have my BJ8 rad re-cored a few years ago, and chose to use a
> thicker core (extra row of cooling tubes). Long story short - the car then
> ran way too cool! Had to remove the Texas cooler fan and re-install the
> original 2 bladed one - still too cool.
>
> Played around with thermostats, checked that the gauge was accurate etc.
> etc.
>
> Bottom line, the engine wanted to run at 180 - 185 to run well at all. I
> now run a 195 thermostat, engine runs between 180 - 190 even in real hot
> weather and at altitude, and is very happy.
>
> So, even though it may be hard for you to BEAR the thought, my problem has
> been to keep the BJ8 running hot enough! Better check your gauge and up
> your thermostat!
>
> Lots of fun!
>
> Earl Kagna
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 23:30:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Powdercoating Q's
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 23:56:23 -0700
Subject: phase II cars
Bob Spidell wrote:
> I always thought a "BJ8 Phase II" had the amber turn lights???
>
> See:
>
> http://www.barrett-jackson.com/auctionresults/common/cardetail.asp?id=168874
>
> What gives? Some sort of "export" model? Or is it misrepresented on this
>page?
>
> Bob
>
> *****************************************************
> Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
>(home)
> San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> *****************************************************
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 07:00:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Phase I to Phase II BJ8 clarification
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 21:30:24 +1000
Subject: Re: Donald Healey's trophy cabinet auction - this Friday 24th
Further to my last email (below) - I just got emailed a picture of the
Donald Healey trophy cabinet (being auctioned tomorrow 24th May - lot 357)
by the auctioneers http://www.Bigwoodauctioneers.co.uk
What an awesome piece of furniture!!! The black & white picture on page 41
of Donald Healeys book "My world of cars" of this cabinet (when it was full
of Donald's trophys) doesn't do it justice - its about 10 foot long!.
I hope it goes to a good home! If someone on the list buys it - let us all
know!!
Best regards
Chris
No commercial interest yaddah yaddah
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2002 8:30 AM
Subject: Donald Healey's trophy cabinet auction - this Friday 24th May
> For anyone who may be interested, the auction of 'Donald Healey's trophy
> cabinet' is this Friday, 24th May, at 11am British Summer Time at Bigwood
> Auctioneers Ltd, The Old School, Tiddington, Stratford-upon-Avon,
Warwickshire
> CV37 7AW. Tel: 0044 1789 269 415, Fax: 0044 1789 294 168.
>
> Their website is http://www.Bigwoodauctioneers.co.uk
>
> Contact is Celia Ironmonger. Tel: 0044 1789 269 415, Fax: 0044 1789 294
168.
>
> Catalogue is http://www.bigwoodauctioneers.co.uk/fineart.asp
>
> Healey family items include:
>
> Lot 245, Mahogany Boxed "Laundy" Trepaning Set. Belonged to Donald
Healey's
> father estimate #700 - #1000 sterling.
>
> Lot 356 is early 20th century Mahogany cabinet bookcase with glass doors,
> upper section. This was in the office with the desk.
>
> Lot 357 (#400-#600 estimate) is what has been know as "DMH's Trophy
Cabinet"
> as seen on page 41 of DMH's book 'My World of Cars'. Described in auction
as
> The upper section of Victorian walnut inverted breakfront bookcase over 4
> sections. This is such a lovely piece of furniture, very big, 3 metres
long.
>
> The partners' desk belonging to DMH and then GCH will be in the June sale
on
> 28th June at Bigwood again. This will be in their catalogue and on their
> website next month for viewing.
>
> Speak to Celia Ironmonger if interested in bidding, read the descriptions
> terms etc in the catalogue http://www.bigwoodauctioneers.co.uk/fineart.asp
and
> confirm items numbers etc before bidding.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 07:36:56 -0400
Subject: Car Show Pics
http://www.cylogix.com/andyp/ccs/chester_car_show.htm
Andy
P.S. I encourage others to show us their photos ... please!
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 09:11:11 -0500
Subject: Fresh Air Intake - BT7
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 10:33:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Phase I to Phase II BJ8 clarification
My VIN is 29122.
Dave Masucci
BJ8 Phase II without extra lights
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>; "Healey List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2002 12:53 AM
Subject: Phase I to Phase II BJ8 clarification
> Bob -
>
> This BJ8 is actually correct (although a bit too shiny
> for OEM!) . My early '66 has white combined
> parking/turn signals on it. They didn't put the
> seperate amber turn signals on the cars until about
> car number 30,000 or so.
>
> Alot of healey owners don't realize that the switch
> from Phase I to Phase II BJ8s WASN'T when they changed
> the turn signal set up. The Phase I to Phase II
> switch related to the big change in rear suspension
> (panhard rod to radius arms & stiffer springs). These
> early phase II BJ8s also share the same rear shroud
> with the BJ7, not later BJ8s.
>
> Probably about 5,000 Phase II's were produced with the
> single white lensed combined front turn signal/parking
> lights up front (super early Phase IIs used the
> BJ7/BT7 style turn signal lights). If your car is an
> early Phase II and has amber lenses on the front, it's
> probably not original.
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8 (Early Phase II)
>
>
> --- Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net> wrote:
> > I always thought a "BJ8 Phase II" had the amber turn
> > lights???
> >
> > See:
> >
> >
> > What gives? Some sort of "export" model? Or is it
> > misrepresented on this page?
> >
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> *****************************************************
> > Bob Spidell
> > bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> > San Jose, CA.
> > robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> > `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
> > PP/ASEL
> >
> *****************************************************
> >
> >
> > > Nothing shameless about that bugeye. wow...
> > amazing.
> > > I wish you the maximum price possible. If ebay
> > doesn't
> > > work out, you should sell it at the Barret Jackson
> > > Auction in Las Vegas... you'd probably get 50-100%
> > > premium over a top dollar Bugeye. Check out the
> > last
> > > auction results:
> > >
> > >
>
> > > note the gold level BJ8 went for $60K. An average
> > > bugeye went for $10K. Maybe you'rs will top over
> > $20K
> > > there?
> > >
> > > Alan
> > >
> > > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 10:35:42 EDT
Subject: Third brake light
I thought that JC Whitney was the soure of the magnetic third-brake light
that has been talked about on the list from time to time, but their catalogue
shows nothing. Can anyone pont me in the right direction for a source? Moss
sells one that is backordered indefinitely....
Also, is it better to carry an independent wire from the brake switch to any
third light rather than tapping into the original wiring to avoid dimming
because of directionals?
Is ther any problem with overloading of the brake switch and do aftermarket
LED brake light consume LESS current than incandescent bulbs (I am negative
ground).
Best--Michael Oritt, 1955 100 LeMans
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 10:45:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Fresh Air Intake - BT7
You are right. A 4 inch hose literally feeding a box and then a 2 inch dia
outlet makes for a little bit of turbulent air.
I decided early in the BN7 resto that I would use the air supply from that
hose to feed a cold air box for the carbs. Designed a box, had it built,
cut the hose to length, and now it picks up air through the grill. In
theory or in practice this should improve engine performance.
Then came the fresh air. Built a Y section out of sheet steel about 8-10
inches long. Built it so that two legs of the Y were 4 inch dia and the
third leg 3 inch. Installed the butterfly from the old fresh air hose just
aft of the 3 inch leg. The Y mounts to the shroud vertical support. Air is
taken in with a 4 inch hose to the Y. With the butterfly closed air is
diverted to the heater blower. (It can be closed off with a dash knob as
you know.)
With the fly open air runs straight through to a second 4 inch hose which
bends around the dist to a flange mounted where the Rhand drive cars have
their brake and clutch masters. Had to enlarge the hole. On the inside of
the firewall made a matching flange but with two 2 inch dia flanges. Bought
two pieces of VW 2 inch flexible hot air duct. One attaches and bends over
to feed the driver, the other to feed the passenger. Each is held up with a
strap made of matching vinyl having a magnet inside. Driver's side duct
holds to the underside of the heater box and passenger side to the underside
of the parcel tray.
Air quantity is 1000% better than stock and each can be directed in many
directions. Works real slick if I do say so myself.
Sorry I cannot send pix as have no digital camera and have had little
success in the past with scanning and sending. If you want more detail let
me know.
Keith
> Hi List, I'd like to improve the left hand fresh air intake before I put
the
> shroud and fenders on the BT7 Mk2. As many folks know, the stock location
of
> the intake above the grille gives pretty crummy air flow. I saw a
California
> Healey at the '88 Conclave that had relocated the intake and shut-off
valve to
> the left front wheel well at about a "two-o'clock" position, but I didn't
get
> to question the owner on how well it worked. I'd love some feed back from
the
> list from anyone having relocated or otherwise improved their fresh air
> induction to the driver's side....it gets pretty hot during Arkansas
summers.
> Thanks!!
> Jack Brashear
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 08:22:53 -0700
Subject: Re: Phase I to Phase II BJ8 clarification
Jwhlyadv@aol.com wrote:
> Just to add to the confusion, my BJ8 is a very early Phase two model #27240.
> It was a "personal export delivery" and has always featured the dual lights
> up front of the later BJ8's.
> Regards,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 11:28:15 -0400
Subject: Dwight Patten
I'm looking to contact Dwight Patten, but the email that I have for him is
outdated. Dwight are you out there?
Dave Masucci
BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 11:41:11 EDT
Subject: Re: Third brake light
I used the light designed for pickups, SUVS & Vans shown in the Whitney
catalog #661U-04. It is on page 140 and has the part number 12UY7650A
selling at $12.99. I used it on the UK2K tour in 2000 and had no problems. I
wired it right into the existing wires and it functioned as a brake light as
well as turn signals.
I didn't want to attach it permanently so I stuck it to double sided carpet
tape and then onto a magnet sign .
It all worked very well! Good Luck
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7 (Tahoe bound)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 10:59:33 -0500
Subject: Shameless attempt at computer operation
http://www.ezshots.com/members/bugide/
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 528 (New census numbers)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 09:05:15 -0700
Subject: Healey Addict
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 16:08:10 +0000
Subject: Re: Third brake light
- Chinese Proverb
> Michael,
>
> I used the light designed for pickups, SUVS & Vans shown in the Whitney
> catalog #661U-04. It is on page 140 and has the part number 12UY7650A
> selling at $12.99. I used it on the UK2K tour in 2000 and had no problems. I
> wired it right into the existing wires and it functioned as a brake light as
> well as turn signals.
>
> I didn't want to attach it permanently so I stuck it to double sided carpet
> tape and then onto a magnet sign .
>
> It all worked very well! Good Luck
>
> Larry Wysocki
> BN 6
> BJ 7 (Tahoe bound)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 13:03:11 EDT
Subject: Re: Phase I to Phase II BJ8 clarification
rader@interworld.net writes:
> up front, but not in the back?
> ron R
>
> Jwhlyadv@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Just to add to the confusion, my BJ8 is a very early Phase two model
> #27240.
> > It was a "personal export delivery" and has always featured the dual
> lights
> > up front of the later BJ8's.
> > Regards,
> >
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 13:53:20 -0400
Subject: RE: Healey Addict
It's time to get back to going for a few beers with your mates. It's only a
car, if you get too involved, the next thing you know it's dumping you for a
younger owner who's less obsessive. Trust me, if you proceed the way your
going, it'll be a "Dear Matt" letter and "we can still be friends" and "I
need my own space". Just b e yourself ... push back a little ... don't make
yourself always available every time the BT7 wants to go for a drive. Sure
treat her well and give her attention, but remember to balance your life ...
you both need your own time away from each other.
Marge
-----Original Message-----
From: matt wilson [mailto:mwilson18@cox.net]
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2002 12:05 PM
To: Healey Forum
Subject: Healey Addict
Healey Forum-
I just wanted to bomb the list and say that I am completely consumed by my
1960 BT7. I am addicted in every way to working on it, driving it, and when
I
am away from it... I think about it. I search the internet everyday for
items
of interest about Healeys and I fear that my interest is entering into an
unhealthy balance. There is nothing I can do, or want to do, to change this
course. In fact I could be losing my mind. In the garage the other day,
while doing some laundry, I could swear my car said "hello". My car pleases
me to no end.
Regards,
Matt Wilson
1960 BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ZManDino at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 14:50:09 EDT
Subject: RE: Car Show Pix
Awesome machines. I especially liked the chopped white[49 Merc. or Hudson?].
Where were all the people? I assume that's your son or grandson dreaming
about how soon he can get behind the wheel and cruise the boulevard. Which
web site do you use to display your pix.? I like being able to choose between
low and high resolution...saves time.
Alex
BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 12:23:53 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey Addict
Sounds about right - you have caught the same sickness as the rest of us.
Don't be too concerned, it will moderate after awhile - say about 30 years -
maybe!
Cheers, ------------ Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
currently addicted to:
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2002 9:05 AM
Subject: Healey Addict
Healey Forum-
I just wanted to bomb the list and say that I am completely consumed by my
1960 BT7. I am addicted in every way to working on it, driving it, and when
I
am away from it... I think about it. I search the internet everyday for
items
of interest about Healeys and I fear that my interest is entering into an
unhealthy balance. There is nothing I can do, or want to do, to change this
course. In fact I could be losing my mind. In the garage the other day,
while doing some laundry, I could swear my car said "hello". My car pleases
me to no end.
Regards,
Matt Wilson
1960 BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 14:08:06 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey Addict
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2002 1:23 PM
Subject: Re: Healey Addict
> Matt:
>
> Sounds about right - you have caught the same sickness as the rest of us.
> Don't be too concerned, it will moderate after awhile - say about 30
years -
> maybe!
>
> Cheers, ------------ Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B.C. Canada
> currently addicted to:
> '62 BT7 tri-carb
> '67 BJ8
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
> To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2002 9:05 AM
> Subject: Healey Addict
>
>
> Healey Forum-
> I just wanted to bomb the list and say that I am completely consumed by my
> 1960 BT7. I am addicted in every way to working on it, driving it, and
when
> I
> am away from it... I think about it. I search the internet everyday for
> items
> of interest about Healeys and I fear that my interest is entering into an
> unhealthy balance. There is nothing I can do, or want to do, to change
this
> course. In fact I could be losing my mind. In the garage the other day,
> while doing some laundry, I could swear my car said "hello". My car
pleases
> me to no end.
> Regards,
> Matt Wilson
> 1960 BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 16:21:47 EDT
Subject: Re: Fresh Air Intake - BT7
Cheers
Gary
In a message dated 5/23/02 7:14:49 AM, jnbrashear@GarverInc.com writes:
<< Hi List, I'd like to improve the left hand fresh air intake before I put
the
shroud and fenders on the BT7 Mk2. As many folks know, the stock location of
the intake above the grille gives pretty crummy air flow. I saw a California
Healey at the '88 Conclave that had relocated the intake and shut-off valve to
the left front wheel well at about a "two-o'clock" position, but I didn't get
to question the owner on how well it worked. I'd love some feed back from the
list from anyone having relocated or otherwise improved their fresh air
induction to the driver's side....it gets pretty hot during Arkansas summers.
Thanks!!
Jack Brashear >>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 13:31:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey Addict
You have been bitten by the "Healey Bug", (fatal).
It's silent and slithers up on you like a "Rattle Snake"
Just before the snake strikes, (as we all know) it shakes
it's rattles.
Just before the Healey Bug strikes, (not really known by all)
the exhaust note sounds and you are smitten and infected
for life.
Trust me, you are INFECTED for LIFE..
THE ONLY ANTIDOTE FOR THIS INFECTION IS
COPIOUS QUANTITIES OF BASS ALE, WHICH IS
ONLY TEMPORARY.
You will need a lifetime of refills.
Welcome to the infectious brother (sister) hood of Healeydom.
Kirk Kvam
Infected since 1960
62BT7 (Tri-Carb)
59/60BN7-405 (Nasty-Boy 302Ford)
PS, What is the VIN of your 60BT7 ??
My first Healey, H-BT7-L/6613
Built 4/5 January 1960
----- Original Message -----
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2002 9:05 AM
Subject: Healey Addict
> Healey Forum-
> I just wanted to bomb the list and say that I am completely consumed by my
> 1960 BT7. I am addicted in every way to working on it, driving it, and
when I
> am away from it... I think about it. I search the internet everyday for
items
> of interest about Healeys and I fear that my interest is entering into an
> unhealthy balance. There is nothing I can do, or want to do, to change
this
> course. In fact I could be losing my mind. In the garage the other day,
> while doing some laundry, I could swear my car said "hello". My car
pleases
> me to no end.
> Regards,
> Matt Wilson
> 1960 BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Peter Hunt" <peter at hunt.sol.co.uk>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 21:48:11 +0100
Subject: Re: Healey Addict
Very much a sad case, I can only commiserate with you and just to prolong
your torture, have a look at
www.aroundtheworld.scotland.net/auric/ghindex.htm
Peter Hunt
----- Original Message -----
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2002 5:05 PM
Subject: Healey Addict
> Healey Forum-
> I just wanted to bomb the list and say that I am completely consumed by my
> 1960 BT7. I am addicted in every way to working on it, driving it, and
when I
> am away from it... I think about it. I search the internet everyday for
items
> of interest about Healeys and I fear that my interest is entering into an
> unhealthy balance. There is nothing I can do, or want to do, to change
this
> course. In fact I could be losing my mind. In the garage the other day,
> while doing some laundry, I could swear my car said "hello". My car
pleases
> me to no end.
> Regards,
> Matt Wilson
> 1960 BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 16:18:26 -0500
Subject: Healey Bug Bite
There is a solution to your vexing problem. It goes like this:
1. Buy a fixer-upper for 15,000.
2. Pour about 15,000 into it.
3. Try to sell it for 30,000.
That'll take some of the fever away.
Don
BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 07:36:23 +1000
Subject: Auction of Donald & Geoff Healey Memorabilia from DHMC
The auction of lots of Donald & Geoff Healey's Memorabilia (including the
Gerry Coker drawing board, bits from prototypes, drawings, blueprints,
trophies etc) - lots of large & small lots - will be held on 25 July at
Beaulieu. You can bid via email/internet.
Details of what has been listed (so far) is at
http://www.myaustinhealey.com/healey_family_auction.html
Enjoy!
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 14:20:32 -0700
Subject: Re: Car Show Pics
Thanks for the words of encouragement ... I have been meaning to do
this for a while and been distracted.
I have posted some pics from a gathering that I attended at Half
Moon Bay, CA about a month ago. It was a fun day and I met some
great people but I have forgotten some names, so I apologize for not
naming some of the images - I didn't want to offend by getting them
wrong.
Enjoy http://homepage.mac.com/rohanmarr/Healey_Rally/
Rohan
BN4 Longbridge (Hellouise)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From dwflagg at juno.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 17:27:16 -0400
Subject: Re:M&G??
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jason Gray <jca_gray at yahoo.ca>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 19:04:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: BN4 Drivers Manual
Searched the archives for this but no luck. I'm
looking for an original or reproduction
driver's/owner's manual for a 1957 BN4.
Managed to see something on Amazon called the "100/6
Driver's Handbook 1956-1959" by British Leyland,
author Robert Bentley. Is this the actual "owners
manual" that would have been delivered with the car or
a reasonable approximation?
If not I would appreciate it if someone could point me
to a source.
thanks in advance.
Jason Gray
1957 BN4
Vancouver BC
______________________________________________________________________
Find, Connect, Date! http://personals.yahoo.ca
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 19:52:35 -0400
Subject: RE: BN4 Drivers Manual
Or call us, but it will cost you a little more.
(Don't have their buying power don't you know)
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jason Gray
Sent: 23-May-02 7:04 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: BN4 Drivers Manual
Hi List,
Searched the archives for this but no luck. I'm
looking for an original or reproduction
driver's/owner's manual for a 1957 BN4.
Managed to see something on Amazon called the "100/6
Driver's Handbook 1956-1959" by British Leyland,
author Robert Bentley. Is this the actual "owners
manual" that would have been delivered with the car or
a reasonable approximation?
If not I would appreciate it if someone could point me
to a source.
thanks in advance.
Jason Gray
1957 BN4
Vancouver BC
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From dwflagg at juno.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 20:25:15 -0400
Subject: Re:Hello
Give me a shout off the list. Found Gary's phone number.
Regards,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 18:28:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Third brake light
If you'll be in Tahoe, I'll show you the LED third
brake light (TBL) I rigged up to my BN1. I guarantee
it is the coolest thing you'll ever see and looks like
original equipment.
I think a magnetic removable TBL is a big waste of
effort, as you'll likely never remove it, and finding
a place to stick it to (magnetically) means it'll
probably look like hell when on the car. The one I
have simply uses the one middle screw of the rear
cockpit aluminum molding to hold in place - unscrewing
it and disconnecting the light takes a total of 30
seconds if for some reason I want to remove my third
brake light. As an added benefit, it still can be
seen if the top is up.
RE wiring - You must wire the TBL via a relay which
connects directly to the brake switch itself... even
if you use an LED TBL (as I have). The brake switch
circuit can handle very little current (it feeds your
current brake lights through a relay already - the
flasher relay) - so there's very little draw on the
switch as it is. You want nice BRIGHT brake lights
which mean hooking up a relay. I can show you how
it's done if you're up in Tahoe on Monday - my healey
is ice blue BN1 Cal license 2HEM421 (I think).
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> Folks--
>
> I thought that JC Whitney was the soure of the
> magnetic third-brake light
> that has been talked about on the list from time to
> time, but their catalogue
> shows nothing. Can anyone pont me in the right
> direction for a source? Moss
> sells one that is backordered indefinitely....
>
> Also, is it better to carry an independent wire from
> the brake switch to any
> third light rather than tapping into the original
> wiring to avoid dimming
> because of directionals?
> Is ther any problem with overloading of the brake
> switch and do aftermarket
> LED brake light consume LESS current than
> incandescent bulbs (I am negative
> ground).
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, 1955 100 LeMans
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From dwflagg at juno.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 21:33:41 -0400
Subject: Re:Are You Out There?
Are you still out there??????????
Regards,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Hoylehouse at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 21:43:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Attending without an official entry
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 21:47:23 -0400
Subject: re M&G Vintage Auto
Carroll Phillips Top Down Restorations
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 21:59:40 -0400
Subject: need distributor
Please reply off list
Carroll Phillips Top Down
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 21:09:54 -0500
Subject: Re: BN4 Drivers Manual
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Gary Williams" <gary_c_williams at hotmail.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 19:40:53 -0700
Subject: Transport Referral?
Responses appreciated.
GW
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 21:25:12 -0600
Subject: Ground locations
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 20:52:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Micheal - hooking up a Third brake light relay
Sorry, can't make it... direct flights between MD and
Hong Kong are a bit expensive!!!
I'll see you in Tahoe monday... my US home is in San
Francisco bay Area... so I'll probably just head up to
Tahoe on Monday morning from my brother's house in the
Sacramento Foothills (about an hour or two from
Tahoe).
I'm not sure what terminal #5 is (I don't have a
wiring diagram in front of me) - but there isn't a
terminal on the relay that provides what you need to
hook up the Third brake Light (TBL) properly. If
temrinal #5 is what I think it is... hooking up there
would be the same as hooking up to the brake light
switch & over loading it as previously discussed.
Hooking up a relay for your TBL is easy:
-----------
Brake switch ---|\ /|--- Hot Lead
| | | |
| X Relay X |
| | |/|--- TBL
Ground ---------|/ \|--- Lead from brake
----------- switch to flasher
relay (terminal 5?)
a 5 - lead Universal relays will have two switched
leads coming off of the relay where I've shown the TBL
and the lead to the flasher relay.
This is what a five pin relay looks like :
http://www.jcwhitney.com/item.jhtml?ITEMID=12329&BQ=jcw2
If you note in the picture, you can see a little
hookup diagram on the relay itself which illustrates
how the switch operates
This set up will work to give your current rear brake
lights much stronger lighting as well. The Hot lead
above should be from the hot lead pulled straight off
your voltage regulator (fused, of course). It'll take
you 30 minutes or less to hook it all up, and you can
attach the relay anywher using any existing screw in
the engine compartment. It's very easy.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 5/23/02 10:03:37 PM Eastern
> Daylight Time,
> international_investor@yahoo.com writes:
>
>
> > Ok, I'll tell you what to buy and how to rig it
> up.
> >
> >
> Alan--
>
> I printed it out and will try to get on it the
> beginning of next week. We
> are having a picni c here for all British Cars--see
> the URL below--can you
> make it here in time? I have been told that I can
> use the #5 contct out of
> the lights relay as a power source--I had heard from
> some one else what you
> mentioned about too much power thru the brake relay
> but no one else other
> thna you confirmed it. Anyway, what do you think
> about using the existing
> relay and contact #5?
>
> Thanks--Michael
> (Seeya in tahoe--go to the site below to see me and
> may car for ID purposes!)
>
> For driving directions and picnic details see our
> website at:
>
http://www.chesapeake.net/~oritt/British%20Car%20Week--2002.htm
>
> Seeya Sunday--Michael Oritt
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "George" <leavcast at infomagic.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 21:06:52 -0700
Subject: Re: Attending without an official entry
George Castleberry
1954 BN1L-157155
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hoylehouse@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2002 6:43 PM
Subject: Re: Attending without an official entry
> I know I'm gettin' older but why pray tell would I want to give $85.00 to
> register to be at the biggest Healey meet for the same advantages the
public
> has.......Scotty
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 21:13:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Attending without an official entry
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Hoylehouse@aol.com wrote:
> I know I'm gettin' older but why pray tell would I
> want to give $85.00 to
> register to be at the biggest Healey meet for the
> same advantages the public
> has.......Scotty
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 21:20:22 -0700
Subject: wanted - black stripper
Near the forward edge of the convertible top there is normally a strip
of welting that goes full width and has two metal pointed endcaps. On my
BJ7 the welting was never installed by the P.O. for some reason. Does
anyone have this strip in black that they are willing to part with? I'm
hoping that someone might have this part laying around from an old top.
No, I haven't checked with Heritage, Robbins or the Nudy bar yet but
will if this doesn't shake one loose.
cheers,
John
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 00:25:27 EDT
Subject: Re: wanted - black stripper
Check with any local quality upholsterer, it is common material that is
pre-made and will likely have a stock of it in black.
Richard
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From patrick harris <rotaryman at worldnet.att.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 22:56:41 -0700
Subject: regarding non registration
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 23:16:56 -0700
Subject: Re: Attending without an official entry
Enjoy your trip home. We'll look forward to your next post.
Jim '62 BT7 TriCarb.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hoylehouse@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2002 6:43 PM
Subject: Re: Attending without an official entry
> I know I'm gettin' older but why pray tell would I want to give $85.00 to
> register to be at the biggest Healey meet for the same advantages the
public
> has.......Scotty
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 02:22:02 EDT
Subject: Re: BN4 Drivers Manual
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 23:22:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Powdercoated frame?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 02:35:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Mystery Tools for 100
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 09:18:23 +0100
Subject: Powdercoating Q's
After suffering years of flaking, peeling and dulling paint of various types,
including high temperature coatings, I had my rear brake drums powder coated
grey some 6 or more years ago. The results have been excellent and the finish
still looks like new.
Regards
Paul
Longbridge BN4 with front disks (otherwise I'd have had the fronts done at the
same time!)
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 23:30:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: joe mulqueen <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
Subject: Powdercoating Q's
Hello,
I'm preparing to powdercoat a bunch of items (from
underdash parts to suspension pieces). Does anyone
have experience with parts that do/don't make good
candidates? What about the axle housing? And what
color is most correct - gloss black and let future
dust and dirt do its thing or go straight with satin
black?
Thanks for any tips!
Joe Mulqueen
'60 BT7
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 01:27:06 -0700
Subject: RE: Prince of Darkness and other thoughts
------------------
At 02:43 PM 5/20/2002, you wrote:
>No other country would consider building a car that had the distributor at
>the front ready to take all the water coming through the grille (ala Mini,
>Austin 1100/1300 variants ... but it's hardly a Lucas problem). The problems
>for Lucas, ironically, were worst when they moved outside of auto electrics
>and built the mechanical fuel injection for Triumph. Things were exacerbated
>under British Leyland's poor quality control.
>
>I just got to think about the Britannia comment ... because the English are
>nautical, maybe that's why we refer to the drive shaft as a prop shaft, or
>is that just me?
>
>Andy
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: N5572B@aol.com [mailto:N5572B@aol.com]
>Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2002 10:14 PM
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Prince of Darkness and other thoughts
>
>
>Lucas may or may not deserve their reputation but I ask the question,
>
>If Britannia rules the waves, why can't they build a car that will go
>through
>a puddle?
>
>Cheers,
>Dave
>59 BT 7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 09:59:44 +0100
Subject: Can someone explain something about powder coating?
It seems there are lots of surface finishes available, and, from a
preservation point of view, looks like the answer to all our prayers.
The one question I haven't been able to answer yet is.... can it be used
for body panels, and, if not, why not?
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 06:29:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey Addict
>From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
>Reply-To: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
>To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Healey Addict
>Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 09:05:15 -0700
>
>Healey Forum-
>I just wanted to bomb the list and say that I am completely consumed by my
>1960 BT7. I am addicted in every way to working on it, driving it, and
>when I
>am away from it... I think about it.
_________________________________________________________________
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Dan Tiedge" <dtiedge at aholdusa.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 06:34:58 -0400
Subject: Overdrive Out?
I recently bought a '56 BN2.
The OD seemed to be working fine, but I did notice that it would engage
faster when cold than when the car had run for a while and was warm. Is
that normal?
I drove it the other day for several hours, in and out of OD regularly, and
true to form, after a while, it took a few more seconds for the OD to
engage. But then it did not engage when I flipped the switch and now it no
longer engages - cold or warm.
If I may impose on the list for a few questions (hopefully not at the
expense of interrupting your Tahoe prep!)...
1.) Any ideas?
2.) Am I doing any more damage by continuing to drive the car just using
1-4?
Any and all help is appreciated as always.
All the best.
'56 BN2
'62 TR4 (No OD)
Daniel C. Tiedge
Ahold USA, Inc.
14101 Newbrook Drive
Chantilly, VA 20151
(703) 961-6083 - (Office)
(571) 220-6049 - (Cell)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 04:22:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: 12 Steps for Healey Addicts
Thank you for sharing your feelings, Matt. We have
all been in your shoes and can sympathise with how far
down the toilet you have gotten with your addiction.
You've made great progress, let's revisit the 12 step
recovery program for Healeyholic's Anonymous:
Step 1: Denial. You deny the fact that an Austin
Healey is hot, sweaty, gas hogging, and obsolete, and
are convinced that it can beat a 2002 Hyundai Sonata
around the Sears Point Raceway. You deny to every
rubbernecker that the thing breaks down all the time.
Step 2: Acceptance. Learn to accept the dependency and
emotional or psychiatric illness of obsolete car
ownership, and accept the need to develop and practice
a personal program for fixing your Healey without
pissing off the wife or looting the kids' college
funds.
Step 3: Help. Choose a source of help and decide to
use that source of help for fixing your Healey. That
source of help may be referred to as a "Higher Power"
or any other name that feels comfortable, but the
"healey email forum" is probably sufficient.
Step 5: Identify Assets and Liabilities. Your Healey
is probably a pretty good asset. The liability is
your unwillingness to sell it, even if you are 4
months behind on your mortgage payments.
Step 6: Change. Work with a personal source of help
(Higher Power) to strengthen the personal assets for
your Healey by fixing it up per Factory Spec and
ignore the fact that you'll never sell your Healey,
unless you intend to buy a better Healey for cheaper
of course, which will probably be never.
Step 7: Mend Relationships. Identify people who have
been negatively affected by your Healey Disorder (the
wife), work to mend those relationships. The best way
to do this is to take her for a nice long drive
(without the kids) and attempt some version of
contortionist 'what-not' in the back seat (if you have
a 2+2 of course).
Step 8: Maintain the Healey and Prevent Relapse.
Continue to fix the Healey (even if it doesn't need
any more fixing) and remove liabilities that pose a
risk by continuing to work with a personal source of
help (Higher Power or "healey email forum").
Step 9: Help Others: Share with others who experience
this meniacle disorder by posting useless information
about which BSF threaded 4-branched "whats-it"
attaches with what UNF castle-nut "doohickey" to run
the hydraulic switch "what-not" because "that's the
way the factory did it." Advise others against
putting in the 49 cent JCWhitney plastic replacement
and blow $356 in parts to install the 4-branched
"Trafficator bushing relay" (part No. AEC4599885X)"
that costs $356.00.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net> wrote:
> Healey Forum-
> I just wanted to bomb the list and say that I am
> completely consumed by my
> 1960 BT7. I am addicted in every way to working on
> it, driving it, and when I
> am away from it... I think about it. I search the
> internet everyday for items
> of interest about Healeys and I fear that my
> interest is entering into an
> unhealthy balance. There is nothing I can do, or
> want to do, to change this
> course. In fact I could be losing my mind. In the
> garage the other day,
> while doing some laundry, I could swear my car said
> "hello". My car pleases
> me to no end.
> Regards,
> Matt Wilson
> 1960 BT7
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 04:26:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Overdrive Out?
Did you check to see if your gearbox oil is low? It
sounds like to me you've run out of gearbox oil. You
may also need to do a once over on your OD electrical
system and make sure all the relays and solenoids are
working. The OD itself rarely breaks - the problems
are usually electrical or lack of oil. Also make sure
the PO didn't put Hypoid oil in the gearbox.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Dan Tiedge <dtiedge@aholdusa.com> wrote:
> Healey Brethren -
>
> I recently bought a '56 BN2.
>
> The OD seemed to be working fine, but I did notice
> that it would engage
> faster when cold than when the car had run for a
> while and was warm. Is
> that normal?
>
> I drove it the other day for several hours, in and
> out of OD regularly, and
> true to form, after a while, it took a few more
> seconds for the OD to
> engage. But then it did not engage when I flipped
> the switch and now it no
> longer engages - cold or warm.
>
> If I may impose on the list for a few questions
> (hopefully not at the
> expense of interrupting your Tahoe prep!)...
>
> 1.) Any ideas?
>
> 2.) Am I doing any more damage by continuing to
> drive the car just using
> 1-4?
>
> Any and all help is appreciated as always.
>
> All the best.
>
> '56 BN2
> '62 TR4 (No OD)
>
>
> Daniel C. Tiedge
> Ahold USA, Inc.
> 14101 Newbrook Drive
> Chantilly, VA 20151
> (703) 961-6083 - (Office)
> (571) 220-6049 - (Cell)
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 12:28:13 +0100
Subject: Re: Overdrive Out?
Had an identical situation with my BJ8, except it also got worse as the
driving season progressed. For me the problem turned out to be no more
that dirty surfaces on the solenoid contacts.
In case you don't know, the solenoid has two coils, one to pull the
solenoid, and the other to hold it in (in fact both coils are energised
on pull). When the solenoid has completed its travel on engaging, a pair
of contacts open to break the connection to the pull coil, just leaving
a smaller current flowing through the holding coil.
If you have a good test meter that can measure down to a few ohms, I
suggest that you measure the resistance from the solenoid connection to
chassis (with the power disconnected). If all is well, you should see a
resistance of around half an ohm. If the contacts are dodgy, you may get
an intermittent reading up to around 11 ohms (ie just the holding coil
connecting). Then try actuating the solenoid by hand, and, when you
release it each time, see if you get a consistent reading of half an
ohm, or something that wavers up to 11 ohms. If the latter, you need to
clean the contacts. I used 1200 grit emery VERY gently - some just use
paper or thin card, as you don't want to damage the contacts or remove
any plating. Then a quick squirt with contact lubricant, and all should
be fine.
If your problem is not the contacts, then it's out of my depth, and
someone else will have to help you! I'm a chartered electrical engineer,
not mechanical!
Hope this helps.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 08:38:53 -0400
Subject: RE: Tranny Question.
Steve
61 BN7
While I was test driving it the following happens randomly. Some time as
I come to a stop there is a 'clacking' (?) sound that appears to come
from the tranny and the shifter moves freely in neutral only but won't
go into any gear. The solution so far has been to depress the clutch one
or more (or more is normal) times and eventually it will go into gear.
Once you are in a gear it shifts with now problems.
Nothing was done to the tranny but a new pressure plate, clutch, and
throwout bearing were installed.
Will try to get a Gazette out sometime next week - oh, East Coast gang -
think about taking US 150 out of Louisville and picking US 50 up in
Shoals, IN. We took it home from Springthing in Corydon, IN and it is a
very nice drive. About 7 hours to get to the Days Inn.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From COPPIFAN at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 08:46:36 -0400
Subject: naming your car
Thanks,
Bill Eggert
Annapolis
'67 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rmoment at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 08:54:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Ground locations
>
> Would someone please be so kind as to tell me where the rear tail lamps
> ground to in the back of the car?
There should be two sets of black wires with round tags on them at each end
of the boot "cross" harness. They are attached, on 100s, to the "fan-shaped"
piece that bridges from the bumper bracket supports (with the large holdes in
the sides) to the angle "bow" running from left to right at the lower edge of
the boot opening. There should be one small hole in the side of each of
these "fans", on the vertical surface facing the center of the boot lid
opening, to which the screw goes. Be sure to clean off paint so that you get
a good ground.
Roger
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 14:12:52 +0100
Subject: Re: naming your car
My BJ8 is called "Ginny", in memory of where 'she' started life
(Virginia) with her only other registered owner.
I don't understand those who think their beautiful, curvaceous, Austin
Healeys could be anything other than female. Add to that their
occasional contrariness and there's no contest ... ! ;-)
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From rscaglione at SAFJP.gov.ar
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 10:18:18 -0300
Subject: Steering bakelite part
BJ8 1967
Alfetta 1978
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 09:22:31 -0500
Subject: Hide 'Em strip--was: wanted - black stripper
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@cox.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2002 11:20 PM
Subject: wanted - black stripper
> Got your attention anyway...;)
>
> Near the forward edge of the convertible top there is normally a strip
> of welting that goes full width and has two metal pointed endcaps. On my
> BJ7 the welting was never installed by the P.O. for some reason. Does
> anyone have this strip in black that they are willing to part with? I'm
> hoping that someone might have this part laying around from an old top.
>
> No, I haven't checked with Heritage, Robbins or the Nudy bar yet but
> will if this doesn't shake one loose.
>
> cheers,
> John
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rmoment at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 09:20:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Overdrive Out?
> >The OD seemed to be working fine, but I did notice that it would engage
> >faster when cold than when the car had run for a while and was warm.
> >Is that normal?
>
You might wnat to check the operating valve. THese are usually VERY tight so
use a 6-point BSF socket to remove it. Replacements, should you damage the
hex, are available. Has a Cu gasket under it.
However, I doubt this, or anything elecrical, is the problem.
The sluggish symptom, especially when warm, sounds very much like the
accumulator piston/housing assembly is worn and leaking. Remedy is to
replace this piston and housing. Fortunately you can do this without even
taking the unit out of the car!!
1) undo rear mounts and drag link underneath so that rear of O'dr can be
jacked up a few inches from below. This gives horizontal clearance to the
left side for reemoving parts. You might want to also disconnect the drive
shaft from the O'dr.
2) drain oil
3) remove side cover plate. Note that there are two BOLTS that need to be
released slowly in tandem. These hold the accumulator spring compressed, and
this is a BIG spring!! Read the shop manual as it explains clearly.
4) I use a pair of wood dowels, tapered on one end so that I can squeeze
them against each other when inserted into the accumulator piston, thereby
expanding their far ends to grip the piston from inside. You can then pull
the piston out.
5) Another set of slightly larger dowels will bring the accumulator housing
out. This will be much tougher, but it can be done. If you indeed plan to
replace the housing, you can use more aggressive "grippers" on the inside as
they will damage the bore, but then it is not going to be reused.
Chances are the aluminum housing is scored from the steel and iron-ringed
piston. Replace all these parts. There will be only one rubber O-ring
sealing the outside of the new housing, instead of 2, but that works just
fine so don't worry. Replacement housings have been this way for decades.
Use Hylomar on the side cover gasket -- if you were careful taking the cover
off you can likey re-use the gasket and only need to dry it off from oil.
Roger
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 09:30:39 -0400
Subject: RE: Prince of Darkness and other thoughts
You have a point ... I would rather be sitting in the middle of a puddle in
a Healey than a Fiat 128 :-)
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Katz [mailto:bkatz@handsonresearch.com]
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2002 4:27 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Prince of Darkness and other thoughts
Yea, but at least they still run most of the time. Ever drive a FIAT 128
through a puddle, it'll die half way thru.
------------------
At 02:43 PM 5/20/2002, you wrote:
>No other country would consider building a car that had the distributor at
>the front ready to take all the water coming through the grille (ala Mini,
>Austin 1100/1300 variants ... but it's hardly a Lucas problem). The
problems
>for Lucas, ironically, were worst when they moved outside of auto electrics
>and built the mechanical fuel injection for Triumph. Things were
exacerbated
>under British Leyland's poor quality control.
>
>I just got to think about the Britannia comment ... because the English are
>nautical, maybe that's why we refer to the drive shaft as a prop shaft, or
>is that just me?
>
>Andy
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 11:03:04 -0400
Subject: Re:Looking
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Robert Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 11:00:22 -0700
Subject: Re: naming your car and matching anatomy
COPPIFAN@aol.com wrote:
> Do you have a name for your car? I find it interesting in reading e mails
>that some people do. While I've come to realize that I subconscientiously pet
>it goodnight as I go through the garage for one last look at night, I haven't
>succumbed to giving it a name (yet).
> What's her (his) name? And yours? with car type, if you are willing to
>publically admit it..I'll compile a list for one of the Healey publications.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill Eggert
> Annapolis
> '67 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 08:02:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Attending without an official entry
Now if you just attend the popular car show then you
are going to have to limit your comments to: "My Uncle
had one of those"... or "isn't that an MG?"...
:)
Dean BN7
> Subject: Re: Attending without an official entry
>
>
> > I know I'm gettin' older but why pray tell would I
> want to give $85.00 to
> > register to be at the biggest Healey meet for the
> same advantages the
> public
> > has.......Scotty
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 10:18:58 -0500
Subject: Naming your car
Don
BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From rbender9 at netscape.net
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 11:19:12 -0400
Subject: BJ7/BJ8 vs 100-6 bonnet
__________________________________________________________________
Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience
the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape!
http://shopnow.netscape.com/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 10:27:20 -0500
Subject: The Old Red Devil
Don
BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 08:45:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: re. Can someone explain something about powder coating?
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 09:59:44 +0100
From: Alan F Cross <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Can someone explain something about powder
coating?
......The one question I haven't been able to answer
yet is.... can it be used for body panels, and, if
not, why not?
- --
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 08:59:07 -0700
Subject: healeys@autox.team.net and Tahoe
cheers,
John
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 09:10:31 -0700
Subject: Re: The Old Red Devil
Not bad Don, I think you missed your calling!
Terry Blubaugh
'60 BT7
Don Yarber wrote:
> That Old Red Devil has me in its spell,
> That little two seater that I love so well,
> Its throaty muffler sings a lullaby
> Nearly as nice as a whippoorwill's cry.
> Its shiny spoke wheels spinning round and round
> The wind whistling by with a joyful sound
> So its round and round I go
> Down and down I go
> For a spin
> To the driveways end
> In That Old Red Devil of mine.
>
> Don
> BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 09:34:31 -0700
Subject: Re: healeys@autox.team.net and Tahoe
bk
-------------------------
At 08:59 AM 5/24/2002, you wrote:
>o.k. the clock is ticking and I've seen no mention of a date, time and
>location for the healeys@autox.team.net OpenBar 2002 at Tahoe. Do we
>have any informed listers that can recommend a good watering hole for
>this? A British pub would be appropriate and perhaps a boxing ring for
>those who have only been able to verbally spar all these years.
>
>cheers,
>John
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 09:43:49 -0700
Subject: Re: naming your car
I'll have to agree with a previous posting .. my curvaceous Healey is
most definitely feminine in all aspects of form and temperament. 1957
BN4 (tri-carb) she is called 'Hellouise' since when she is good, she
is very good but when she is bad it is as if she came from hell
itself ... and she also has that touch of devilishness in her, a
temptress!
Rohan.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 13:08:33 EDT
Subject: Re: naming your car
John Stevens
Marquette, MI
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ZManDino at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 13:19:32 EDT
Subject: RE:Car Show Pix
Awesome machines. I especially liked the chopped white['49 Merc. or Hudson?].
Where were all the people? The street seemed empty for such a great gathering
of machines. I assume that's your son or grandson dreaming about how soon he
can get behind the wheel and cruise the boulevard. Which web site do you use
to display your pix.? I like being able to choose between low and high
resolution...saves time.
Alex
BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 13:36:13 EDT
Subject: Re: healeys@autox.team.net and Tahoe
David Nock
co/chaiman Healey International 2002
June 23/28 2002
Horizon Casino Resort
Lake Tahoe, Nevada
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main
Page</A>
In a message dated 5/24/02 8:59:43 AM, loftusdesign@cox.net writes:
<< o.k. the clock is ticking and I've seen no mention of a date, time and
location for the healeys@autox.team.net OpenBar 2002 at Tahoe. Do we
have any informed listers that can recommend a good watering hole for
this? A British pub would be appropriate and perhaps a boxing ring for
those who have only been able to verbally spar all these years.
cheers,
John
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 13:51:11 -0400
Subject: RE: BJ7/BJ8 vs 100-6 bonnet
The front shroud changed when the windup windows were introduced as the
later dash was positioned further back, so unless yours has a graft at
some point is unlikely that it is off the same car as the grille and
bonnet.
As far as I am aware, unlike MGAs, all 6 cyl bonnets are the same
dimensions but some 100/6 models have the crease down the centre. The
internal bracing changed and early bonnets have the prop rod on the
other side
As far as hardware is concerned, obviously the bonnet intake grille is
different on earlier models but your later style will fit. As far as I
remember the catches and hinges were the same on all 6 cyl cars.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of rbender9@netscape.net
Sent: 24-May-02 11:19 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: BJ7/BJ8 vs 100-6 bonnet
Listers,
My BJ7 had existing front end repairs when I bought it. The work was
done between 1963 (when the car was first registered) and 1966 when the
car was sold to the person that sold the car to me many years later. I
am now ready to undo some of the previous work. The repairs included a
100-6 (horizontal) grille and (creased) bonnet, though the shroud is in
very good shape (presumably a replacement from the same 100-6 donor).
Are BJ7 bonnets dimensionally identical to the earlier bonnets? In
other words, if I find another 3000 (uncreased) bonnet will it fit my
shroud, hinges, hardware, etc.? Are all shrouds the same? I do not
want to replace the shroud, though I very much want to be correct with
this car. Am I correct in assuming that a BJ7 bonnet is identical to a
BJ8 bonnet? I believe all of these assumptions to be true, but after
looking through my Healey books (and the archives) I have not found a
definitive statement.
Thanks,
Bob
BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From RandallC2 at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 14:00:23 -0400
Subject: Re: healeys@autox.team.net and Tahoe
I'll be there! All the way from Massachusetts.
Randy Hicks
'56 100M
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Bullard, Ran" <RanBullard at Clearchannel.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 13:29:55 -0500
Subject: Naming of cars
Ran Bullard
'67 BJ8 in pieces on the ground (Thanks James Taylor)
-----Original Message-----
From: COPPIFAN@aol.com [mailto:COPPIFAN@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2002 5:47 AM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: naming your car
Do you have a name for your car? I find it interesting in reading e mails
that some people do. While I've come to realize that I subconscientiously
pet it goodnight as I go through the garage for one last look at night, I
haven't succumbed to giving it a name (yet).
What's her (his) name? And yours? with car type, if you are willing to
publically admit it..I'll compile a list for one of the Healey publications.
Thanks,
Bill Eggert
Annapolis
'67 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 15:04:05 EDT
Subject: Re: healeys@autox.team.net and Tahoe
> Speaking of that, did the hats for this list ever get produced? Maybe I
> missed it in a pre-senior moment.
>
>
And if so how do I get one?
Michael Oritt
Best--Michael Oritt, 1955 100 LeMans
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Robert Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 15:08:06 -0700
Subject: Re: healeys@autox.team.net and Tahoe
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 5/24/02 12:39:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> bkatz@handsonresearch.com writes:
>
> > Speaking of that, did the hats for this list ever get produced? Maybe I
> > missed it in a pre-senior moment.
> >
> >
> And if so how do I get one?
>
> Michael Oritt
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, 1955 100 LeMans
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Robert Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 15:20:40 -0700
Subject: Healeys@autox.team.net hats for Tahoe.
I have the embroidery equipment but that will take us too long and be too
expensive. I also can cut letters and designs on a Gerber Edge machine that are
heat applied and look as good or better, but cost less.
The caps that I have in stock are dead-on copies of the Ralph Lauren Polo caps;
untstructured, as a cap shoud be. We can do a healey on the front that says:
Tahoe
2002 The Healey Line -or- something. and then put the full web address around
the
opening in the back.
Is this of interest???
Bob Denton
Auburn Design Group
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From XK120FHCSE at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 15:25:47 EDT
Subject: Re: Transport Referral?
The way I look at this, the best thing is to pay for the best (Intercity,
Horseless Carriage, or Passport Transport), get the move over with, and get
on with your life. Or go with the cheapest and take your chances. If you want
to make it a mission to find the best cheap company, that's fine but I think
at that point you get into more subjective reliance on peoples' anecdotes.
The fact is, Intercity, Horseless, and Passport are the established safe bets
with undisputed reputations. If you're shipping a nice car, they'll all take
good care of it.
You didn't ask for a recommendation for the cheapest. I went that route once.
I used a guy with an open flatbed to bring a car from the west coast. The car
was a junker so it didn't matter much if they didn't make it. They did make
it without mishap and he was a great guy. But he was a lone wolf and had no
back-up if anything went wrong. His equipment was so-so. I saved a little
money compared to Intercity, but it's a little like flying to China. At some
point, going first class becomes worth it.
While I recommend Intercity, bear in mind that Passport advertises in the
AHCA magazine, and they did a lot of the transporting for the Healey
Challenge years ago. The company was founded by a Healey guy. So I would have
to say all things being equal, you might want to call all 3 best companies
and let the final price make your decision. I think Passport probably
deserves support since they support us.
Last comment. Before you let anyone take your car get a Certificate Of
Insurance from the carrier (trucker). If they won't provide one, do not let
them have your car! If they are shipping interstate and won't give you
evidence of insurance, they may be operating in violation of the law. If you
don't understand the Certificate Of Insurance or you don't know if the
coverage it refers to will cover your car (you are interested in their Motor
Truck Cargo Legal Liability limits), ask your friendly independent insurance
agent who handles your family insurance to look it over for you. They're
99.999% good people and would be happy to do that for a good customer. Some
truckers carry large deductibles so if they have a $1.0 million insurance
limit but a $50,000 deductible, odds are their insurance isn't going to do
you much good. But federal regulations require interstate motor carriers
(truckers) to assume liability within the deductible if they are liable for
the loss; but good luck collecting, it varies by trucking company. Finally,
it never hurts to make sure your own insurance on the car is in force as of
the moment you take ownership. That's your last refuge, and you control that
one.
Dick Rowley
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 15:23:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Naming of cars
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bullard, Ran" <RanBullard@Clearchannel.com>
To: "Healey Listserver (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2002 2:29 PM
Subject: Naming of cars
> The '67 BJ8 that I bought last year was named "Bambi". The previous owner
> put a lot of work and time into it, which angered his girlfriend, who
wanted
> to be his center of gravity instead of the car. She named it "Bambi"
because
> he spent all his time underneath it fu--ing up!
>
> Ran Bullard
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 15:27:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Healeys@autox.team.net hats for Tahoe.
> Let's look at what we can do.
>
> I have the embroidery equipment but that will take us too long and be too
> expensive. I also can cut letters and designs on a Gerber Edge machine that
> are
> heat applied and look as good or better, but cost less.
>
> The caps that I have in stock are dead-on copies of the Ralph Lauren Polo
> caps;
> untstructured, as a cap shoud be. We can do a healey on the front that
> says: Tahoe
> 2002 The Healey Line -or- something. and then put the full web address
> around the
> opening in the back.
>
> Is this of interest???
>
> Bob and all--
I'm up for whatever gets produced--shouldn't the new issue more or less match
at least in color whatever has been done in the past so that we can recognize
other listers?
Best--Michael Oritt, 1955 100 LeMans
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 15:30:00 EDT
Subject: Re: healeys@autox.team.net and Tahoe
<< I would think the "5 minute stumble" would be most appropriate. :-)
I'll be there! All the way from Massachusetts.
Randy Hicks
'56 100M >>
Guess we just need a time, and something a little more specific for
directions. After all, when I start to stumble, I like to have an idea in
mind of which direction to fall.
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 14:37:36 -0500
Subject: Re: naming your car and matching anatomy
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 12:40:14 -0700
Subject: Re: healeys@autox.team.net and Tahoe
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 12:49:27 -0700
Subject: Re: healeys@autox.team.net and Tahoe
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From XK120FHCSE at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 15:56:59 EDT
Subject: Re: naming your car
> What's her (his) name?
Admitting that a lot of people think car naming is silly, but playing along
with the thread..... The cars here sort of grew names all by themselves and
now we find ourselves solidly among "those kind of people" who name their
cars. Here's the rogue's gallery:
'55 Healey 100: "Jade Dragon" because it's Aston Martin metallic green and
has a Ford 289. She's pretty, green and strong like jade, but she's powerful
like a dragon. Drove this one to work today. Fun!
'54 Healey 100 vintage racer: No name, I don't know why.
'58 Bugeye: "Rosebud" because she's little and red like a sled.
'53 Jag XK120 coupe: Has 2 names (go figure). "Kahuna" because the car is
from Hawaii, and "The Farm Truck" because it's farm truck green; with the
split windshield and giant steering wheel it's just like driving a big old
farm truck.
'57 Porsche 356: "Bouree" Named back in 1970 (Jethro Tull fans get it).
'62 Jag Mk II: "The Old Girl" seems to be the name that stuck, even though
it's not a name. Been in the family since 1965 so she has special status.
'58 Berkeley: "Snowflake" because it's tiny and white.
'83 Mercedes 300TD: "Stinky" (you know what the "D" stands for: Stinky!)
'88 Jeep Grand Wagoneer: "Le Monstre" after Cunningham's big boxy Le Mans
Caddy. Carries Connecticut registration # JS 625. Same as it's namesake.
'66 Olds Toronado: "The Shark" for obvious reasons. It's the old GM sea mist
green and looks like something that would swallow another car whole, given
half a chance.
That's all. Nothing too creative.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 13:08:47 -0700
Subject: Re: Transport Referral?
I'll second Intercity. I used them Chicago to San Francisco. The car arrived
exactly when it was supposed to and unloaded in front of my house. First
class operation with very well maintained trucks. Perhaps a bit more
expensive than others but you can ship with confidence and that's worth a
lot
Coop ('66 BJ8)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 13:48:19 -0700
Subject: Re: Names
Here's what I came up with about two years ago. An up to
date and more elaborate version for publication would be
great.
Regards,
Pete Pollock
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Names- continued
Date: Sun, 06 Aug 2000 10:41:24 -0700
From: "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete@ix.netcom.com>
To: Healey net <healeys@autox.team.net>
After several day's accumulation here's what I have for car
names- twenty-one.
I'm certain everyone enjoyed the stories behind the names as
much
as did I ("Bambi" indeed). Most respondents did not address
the
"talking" issue, but those that did turned it into a
delightful
thread of its own. However only one of the talkers
explicitly
referred to conversing with his named LBC (EditorGary,
expressing
precisely my experience, I might add), so only he and I are
noted. Some of you may wish to add an addendum (or own up).
Pete Pollock
BJ7
N. California
Original intro:
Awhile back I triggered a little thread about car
gender by
referring to my BJ7 as "he". Got me musing about car
names and
wondering how many of us have named our beasts and,
like me, are
given to talking to them.
When I got my car new in '63 I started referring to it
as "the
Austin" and over the years, as I learned the value of
talking to
machinery, it became shortened to just "Austin", so
that's his
name. Pretty prosaic but I figure that, like boats, it
is apt to
be bad luck to rename your car (if only because there'd
be a
while during which it wouldn't know you're talking to
it and
would fail to follow your tender instructions). So
he's "Austin"
and he's a "he", which is not to say other Healeys
aren't
"shes". (How else would we get Sprites?)
What this is leading up to is a collected list of the
various and
sundry car names, nicknames, etc. Here's what I have
so far.
Except for mine they're all splendid. Anyone
interested send your info to be added.
Agnes
BN1
Howard Lee Young, Jr.
The Auld Banger
?
Simon Lachlan
Austin
BJ7
Pete Pollock (talker)
Babe
BN4
Greg Bankin
Bambi
BJ8
Tim Wallace
Bilbo
Sprite ("after Tolkein's hobbit")
Mike
Chimera
BJ7
Bill Moyer
"Known as "Chimera" a lion in front, a goat behind the wheel
and a snake's tail draggin' the exhaust behind. Goat's
aren't
too bright."
Erika the Red
100-Six
John Soderling
Ginny
BJ8
Alan F Cross
Hortense THE Healey
BJ7
Ed Kaler
Iris
60 AN5L
Leo Speichinger
Jolly Roger, Sprytly's Big Brother
BN7
Martin Johnson
Kermit
W.R. Gibbons (deceased)
Frogeye Sprite (green, of course)
Old Red Devil
BN7
Don Yarber
"Not Yet Named" (Editor's comment: dangerous.)
BT7
Chris Woodall
Pandora
BJ8
Don Gschwind
Rachel
BN7
Gary Anderson (talker)
The Red Dragon
BJ8
Robert D.(Dragonmaster) Hughes
Ruby
BJ8
John Stevens
TARHEELY
"Has spent his whole 34 years (7 owners) here in The Tar
Heel
State."
BJ8
Steve Byers
ULU
BJ8
Bob Jones
Selected comments:
* Fred Scheuble: "I've called my healey many names on
occasion but I can't print it here!"
* Howard Lee Young, Jr., Agnes: "Don't know why my Pop
named
her that when he bought her in 1960,mos' pro'lly took t
to
the grave with him,unless it's in the article"A Love
Affair
With Agnes" that he wrote for his SCCA Reg. newspaper
"Rebel
Yell".I think i asked my Mom once and she didn't know.
But
Agnes was known to her competition as "# 64 E.P. She
also
"showed her ass" to more than one D.P. (Oh and the
other
Healeys here don't have names although the BN2 should
be
called Bengt Frame........(bent frame)......and the
BJ7..."Floorless" or
Rusty................HoYo)"
* Tim Wallace, Bambi: "Old girl friend of mine came up
with
that one day when she felt that I was spending too much
time
with my cars and not nearly enough with her. (Read high
maintenance. The girl that is.) It all came out one
day in
one of those fits that far too many of my
ex-girlfriends
have. She told me, "You ought to call that thing
Bambi,
because you sure spend a lot of time under it screwing
up!!!!" The bump and gash on my forehead were worth it
from
the gaffaw I got from that piece of female logic. From
that
time foreward Bambi she was."
* Greg Bankin, Babe: "When I first brought HER home my
then
girlfriend thought I was as proud as a new father."
* Gary Anderson, Rachel: "I talked to Norman Dewis,
Jaguar's
chief test driver from the fifties, just before he
drove the
XJ13 up the hill at Goodwood a few weeks ago. I asked
him
what he did just before a race. He said, "I talk to
the car
and tell her what I expect of her. 'No messing about, a
good
clean run, give it all she's got,' that sort of thing.
It
does make a difference, you know, if you talk to your
car."
"That's what I used to say to my wife and
she's
gone. Sure glad I didn't talk to my Healey like that."
(Ray
Feehan)
* Gary Anderson, Racel: "As for me, the first time I
drove my
BN7, she found a way to communicate that she had a
name, and
it was "Rachel." I see her as having been a petite,
attractive, and very athletic dancer in a former life.
On
long trips when I'm driving, I often find myself
"channeling" thoughts from her. Far-fetched? Don't say
that
within earshot of her!"
"Gary, that is, WITHOUT A DOUBT, the
"sagest"
advice I have EVER seen or heard!!" (Ed Kaler,
Hortense THE
Healey)
* Simon Lachlan, The Auld Banger: "And often referred to
as
"He" to make the distinction from the other old banger
in my
life."
* Ron Yates: "It's always worked for me!
My first car/love was a 1938 LaSalle Opera Coupe
that
was christened
"Angelique". She was magnificent!
This beautiful, tall two-door with fender mounted
wheels,
whitewalls, etc..
The guys in the car club used to deride her/me because
she
didn't fit the
chevy/ford concept that was so prevelant in the car
clubs at
the time.
One weekend at the local drag meet a couple of guys
from
the club
challenged me/her to a go. She/me easily beat the first
challenge and the
next guy up was Howie Heinz who had this nifty '40
chevy
with a special 271
Jimmy all spiffed to the nines..
I had always had conversations with Angelique from
the
first day she
came into my life about all manner of things, and I
assured
that no matter
what happened this day, she was the most special thing
in my
life and always
would be.
It was a close contest, but we pipped Howie, and as
Angelique passed
that 271 Jimmy she spit some oil out the breather pipe
that
covered Howies
chevy from headlight to tail pipe. Now that was a bit
unladylike, but you
could hear her chortling all the way back to the pit;
if you
listened real
close.
Angelique didn't win every race, but when she did
she
would leave her
mark. I never did figure out how, but then I didn't
try too
hard to find
out.
Since then I've never questioned their gender, they
always were named
appropiately, were always included in conversations to
and
from wherever,
and considered part of the family, and taken care of
accordingly. If I was
ever let down it was because of me not them. The car
is a
special person
and you treat "her" accordingly."
* "We bought our red 1965 BJ8 in March and now have a
license
plate frame that says "Y Ddriag Goch", which is Welsh
for
"The Red Dragon". I don't know its gender, but it does
breath a bit of fire (ok, smoke). I don't think I want
to
piss it off...
Robert D. Hughes ("D" for Dragonmaster? Just don't let
the
car know.)"
* "By the way, Pandora is the absolute primo name for a
Healey. A container of chaos. The last thing to
emerge is
hope. SoooPerfect!" (Bill Moyer, Chimera)
*
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 16:49:19 EDT
Subject: Re: healeys@autox.team.net and Tahoe
With the lists permission six of us who were there formed a committee and
selected a design. I've lost track of him but he was out of Eastern Tennessee
and also did hats for other team.net lists. Maybe the MG guys know where he
is, that is where I first met him.
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 17:08:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Healeys@autox.team.net hats for Tahoe.
"Healey at Elizabeth 2002" and the web site on the back?
Aren't you talking about two different hats? A 'Tahoe' hat as a dated
regalia item and a 'Healeys@autox.team' hat for those of us who are
Tahoe-challenged.
Charley - from Elizabeth - PA
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 17:15:09 -0400
Subject: Re: naming your car
Does it cloud up and rain in there??
Does it have a name, like, THE BLOB (The Huge Enclosed Barn Like Outdoor
Building)???
Just for laughs, I hope,
Charley
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 14:06:46 -0700
Subject: Re: healeys@autox.team.net and Tahoe
Don't know if he's doing hats anymore. Sounds like Bob Denton is gonna come
through though.
----------------------------
At 01:49 PM 5/24/2002, you wrote:
> I have a couple of Lynn Shelley's Healey List Hats. He did a very nice job.
>A couple of years ago he was at our annual British Car Show (Marques on the
>Green, June 1, see www.britishsportscar club for info).
>
>With the lists permission six of us who were there formed a committee and
>selected a design. I've lost track of him but he was out of Eastern Tennessee
>and also did hats for other team.net lists. Maybe the MG guys know where he
>is, that is where I first met him.
>
>Regards,
>
>Jim Werner
>Louisville, KY
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From BTARH2O at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 17:17:19 EDT
Subject: Old Red Devil
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 17:54:42 EDT
Subject: Pertronix Ignitor
I am trying to order a Pertronix "Ignitor" for my Healey. The distributor
has to number : DM6A stamped on it. and it is in my BJ 7. They are
having trouble determining the right model Ignitor for that distributor. Has
anybody on the list successfully instsalled an "Ignitor" in a DM6A
distributor? I would appreciate a response , (probably of the list
preferably).
Thanks
Larry Wysocki
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Thomas Mulligan" <tpmul at worldnet.att.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 18:00:58 -0400
Subject: Encounter 25 & Gerry Coker
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Reid Trummel <ahcusa at healeyhighlights.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 15:23:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Mystery Healey Photo
Please take a look at the photo of the red Healey
Hundred at this URL and let me know if you know
anything about it:
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/_wsn/page3.html
Thanks in advance!
Reid
=====
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
http://www.healey.org
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
===============================
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 15:38:15 -0700
Subject: virtual healey updated
cheers,
John
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 18:39:32 EDT
Subject: British Car Week in Maryland picnic--Sunday May 26th
Seeing as how this is the first time that this event has occurred and in
light of the theme of "Open Roads", the Marque of the Year will be:
AUSTIN-HEALEY, and a special prtable toilet has been reserved for the
exclusive use of Healey drivers who bring their cars.
Make your plans--this may never happen again!
I hope to see a lot of you on Sunday and many more in Tahoe!
Best--Michael Oritt, 1955 100 LeMans
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Bullard, Ran" <RanBullard at Clearchannel.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 17:48:36 -0500
Subject: RE: Naming of cars
-----Original Message-----
From: AH102 [mailto:bluechipracing@snet.net]
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2002 12:24 PM
To: Bullard, Ran; Healey Listserver (E-mail)
Subject: Re: Naming of cars
I'l mention without further comment or implication that Bambi in the movie
was a male deer....a stag I suppose.........
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bullard, Ran" <RanBullard@Clearchannel.com>
To: "Healey Listserver (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2002 2:29 PM
Subject: Naming of cars
> The '67 BJ8 that I bought last year was named "Bambi". The previous owner
> put a lot of work and time into it, which angered his girlfriend, who
wanted
> to be his center of gravity instead of the car. She named it "Bambi"
because
> he spent all his time underneath it fu--ing up!
>
> Ran Bullard
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Robert Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 18:50:57 -0700
Subject: Re: Encounter 25 & Gerry Coker
Thomas Mulligan wrote:
> We are preparing printed material for the
> AHSTC 25th Encounter (August 14- 18, 2002 in
> Princeton, NJ).
> Gerry Coker is attending and speaking at this event
> and the program is to include a bio and a picture (with
> his permission).
> I am trying to improve upon the photo we have.
> Does anyone have a good photo of Gerry that can be
> e-mailed to me? Or does anyone know of a website
> where a photo might exist?
> Thanks:
> Tom
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Bruce Starke" <bstarke at redshift.bc.ca>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 16:53:48 -0600
Subject: Bugeye part wanted
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 19:14:22 -0400
Subject: Dash top removal
Anyone have any tips or tricks for removing the padded dash top on a BJ8?
Archive did not address this specifically.
My car has the typical problem of material pulling away from the grills and
curling up. Was told this would take a complete re-cover to fix the
problem.
TIA,
Scot
'66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rmoment at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 19:45:04 EDT
Subject: rear leaf springs
I have recently discovered that good new springs may indeed be available. In
talking with Michael Grant at Moss I was told that the springs Moss had been
buying for years from a manufacturer in England were their "economy grade",
but that they also made a better "original equipment grade" spring . These
latter ones were built to the original specifications. This includes better
steel quality and the correct clip hardware (or almost correct). Finally,
these "OE" springs are test loaded before shipping. Moss has been stocking
these OE springs for about 18 months now and list them for the 6-cylinder
Healeys.
What I was looking for was rear leaf springs for the 100. The Moss catalog
states "N/A" for these. However, Moss does indeed have them in stock under
part number 021-581 and priced at $119.95 ea. These are 8-leaf springs,
correct for all 100s starting with the Hypoid rear axle. Their free-standing
arch is about 1/2 - 3/4" greater than the shop manual specifies, which is in
the right direction if you want to be "safe". To 95% of people looking under
a car, they appear as-original. (The bad springs sold years ago had hex head
bolts holding the clips together and just looked wrong.) However, there are
a few slight differences which perfectionists will want to fix, and these are
easy to do:
1) The paint is horrible and needs to be stripped and redone. However it
might be wise to first remove the new rubber bushes from the main leaves.
2) The 4 clips that are not riveted to leaves have holes which would need to
be filled in and filed smooth. These clips would first need to be removed
from the spring -- an easy job to do.
3) The rivets used to attach two clips per spring to the one leaf have
rather oversized heads. These could be ground smaller without affecting
their fastening function.
4) The lubrication interleaves are not zinc but rather a durable-looking
plastic. They may very well do their job just fine, but if your original
zinc interleaves are in good condition you could swap them over.
5) The slot-head countersunk screws on the clip hardware are the correct
size but have 1/4-28 threads, while the original screws on 100s had 1/4-20
threads. The screws on all 6-cylinder car spring clips had the 1/4-28
threads, so these screws are certainly correct on the later cars.
6) The shouldered center screw is a bit long and also has 1/4-28 threads.
I plan to make up "new" springs for my car using a mixture of original clips
and zinc interleaves and steel leaves from the new springs.
I can't say whether these new springs will not sag as the "economy grade"
ones did before. It sounds like they may be a whole lot better, though.
Anyhow, I thought those on the list might be interested in the above, and
particularly that 8-leaf springs for the 100s are available.
Roger
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From NPaul72464 at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 19:55:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Pertronix Ignitor
I have a Pertronix in my Healey with a DM6A which is positive ground. The
number is LU165P12. It is a different one for a negative ground car.
Ned Paulsen
Rochester, NY
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 01:06:25 +0100
Subject: Re: Dash top removal
IIRC, there are a couple of bendy tabs at the ends, that need to be bent
down to release the dash top. A bit of a micky-mouse fixing if you ask
me! Can't remember if there is anything else that needs to be undone,
but I'm sure others will know.
Hope this helps.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 17:51:19 -0700
Subject: Re: Transport Referral?
XK120FHCSE@aol.com wrote:
> Intercity. Used them 4 times, including California to Connecticut. Great
> drivers, top notch equipment, etc. Extremely well coordinated on pick up and
> delivery times. Very flexible to my schedule. Also bought a car that the
> seller shipped to me via Horseless Carriage. They seemed to be excellent too.
>
> The way I look at this, the best thing is to pay for the best (Intercity,
> Horseless Carriage, or Passport Transport), get the move over with, and get
> on with your life. Or go with the cheapest and take your chances. If you want
> to make it a mission to find the best cheap company, that's fine but I think
> at that point you get into more subjective reliance on peoples' anecdotes.
> The fact is, Intercity, Horseless, and Passport are the established safe bets
> with undisputed reputations. If you're shipping a nice car, they'll all take
> good care of it.
>
> You didn't ask for a recommendation for the cheapest. I went that route once.
> I used a guy with an open flatbed to bring a car from the west coast. The car
> was a junker so it didn't matter much if they didn't make it. They did make
> it without mishap and he was a great guy. But he was a lone wolf and had no
> back-up if anything went wrong. His equipment was so-so. I saved a little
> money compared to Intercity, but it's a little like flying to China. At some
> point, going first class becomes worth it.
>
> While I recommend Intercity, bear in mind that Passport advertises in the
> AHCA magazine, and they did a lot of the transporting for the Healey
> Challenge years ago. The company was founded by a Healey guy. So I would have
> to say all things being equal, you might want to call all 3 best companies
> and let the final price make your decision. I think Passport probably
> deserves support since they support us.
>
> Last comment. Before you let anyone take your car get a Certificate Of
> Insurance from the carrier (trucker). If they won't provide one, do not let
> them have your car! If they are shipping interstate and won't give you
> evidence of insurance, they may be operating in violation of the law. If you
> don't understand the Certificate Of Insurance or you don't know if the
> coverage it refers to will cover your car (you are interested in their Motor
> Truck Cargo Legal Liability limits), ask your friendly independent insurance
> agent who handles your family insurance to look it over for you. They're
> 99.999% good people and would be happy to do that for a good customer. Some
> truckers carry large deductibles so if they have a $1.0 million insurance
> limit but a $50,000 deductible, odds are their insurance isn't going to do
> you much good. But federal regulations require interstate motor carriers
> (truckers) to assume liability within the deductible if they are liable for
> the loss; but good luck collecting, it varies by trucking company. Finally,
> it never hurts to make sure your own insurance on the car is in force as of
> the moment you take ownership. That's your last refuge, and you control that
> one.
>
> Dick Rowley
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 20:54:23 EDT
Subject: British Car Week in Maryland picnic--Sunday May 26th
Best--Michael Oritt, 1955 100 LeMans
Return-path: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com
Full-name: Awgertoo
Message-ID: <122.11adad15.2a201b24@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 18:39:32 EDT
Subject: British Car Week in Maryland picnic--Sunday May 26th
To: healeys@autox.team.net
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 7.0 for Windows US sub 10503
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/alternative by demime 0.97c
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain
Well it looks like the weatherman is going to cooperate and give us a nice
day!
Now's the time to make your final plans to attend what some have predicted to
be the Woodstock of the British Car World... For information and driving
instructions go to:
<A HREF="http://www.chesapeake.net/~oritt/British%20Car%20Week--2002.htm";>
Picnic this Sunday</A>
Seeing as how this is the first time that this event has occurred and in
light of the theme of "Open Roads", the Marque of the Year will be:
AUSTIN-HEALEY, and a special prtable toilet has been reserved for the
exclusive use of Healey drivers who bring their cars.
Make your plans--this may never happen again!
I hope to see a lot of you on Sunday and many more in Tahoe!
Best--Michael Oritt, 1955 100 LeMans
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 21:13:50 -0400
Subject: RE: Dash top removal
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alan F Cross
Sent: 24-May-02 8:06 PM
To: Scot Paulson
Cc: healey list
Subject: Re: Dash top removal
In message <200205241914_MC3-FF6A-A710@compuserve.com>, Scot Paulson
<SPAULSON1@compuserve.com> writes
>Hi List,
>
>Anyone have any tips or tricks for removing the padded dash top on a
>BJ8? Archive did not address this specifically. My car has the typical
>problem of material pulling away from the grills and curling up. Was
>told this would take a complete re-cover to fix the problem.
>
>TIA,
>
>Scot
>'66 BJ8
IIRC, there are a couple of bendy tabs at the ends, that need to be bent
down to release the dash top. A bit of a micky-mouse fixing if you ask
me! Can't remember if there is anything else that needs to be undone,
but I'm sure others will know.
Hope this helps.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 22:52:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Dash top removal
Keith Pennell
> One more thing...
> Remove the interior mirror which screws through the pad onto anchor nuts
> below
>
> Michael Salter
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 23:28:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Dash top removal
Keith
> Keith:
>
> Oops! The studs come off with the dash pad. You have to remove them after
> the pad is off to install the new material.
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B.C. Canada
> '62 BT7 tri-carb
> '67 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 20:28:40 -0700
Subject: Re: Dash top removal
Oops! The studs come off with the dash pad. You have to remove them after
the pad is off to install the new material.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>; "'Alan F Cross'"
<alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>; "'Scot Paulson'" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Cc: "'healey list'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2002 7:52 PM
Subject: Re: Dash top removal
And the studs for the Lift-a-Dot fasteners.
Keith Pennell
> One more thing...
> Remove the interior mirror which screws through the pad onto anchor nuts
> below
>
> Michael Salter
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 20:53:24 -0700
Subject: Naming of cars, hats, 5-min. stumble
At the risk of tying a whole bunch of threads together, can I buy a hat if I
name my Healeys? Wouldn't want to be without such a hat on the 'stumble' -
just in case I really do stumble! If the hats get to Tahoe, I'm in, even in
Canadian dollarettes!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 20:58:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Third Brake Light set up for all two seaters
It's simple. Go and order this standard brake light:
http://www.julianos.com/3rd_brake_light.html
Get the one at the top of the list.
1) Remove the aluminum pedestal that comes with the
light.
2) Fashion out of aluminum strips (1" wide, you can
get them at home depot), a bracket that will attach
this aluminum TBL to the middle screw(s) that holds
the rear aluminum cockpit moulding piece in place.
The bracket will attach to the bottom of the TBL where
you removed the pedestal that came with the TBL.
3) make sure the bottom of the TBL lies flat on the
cockpit molding - you may have to futz with your
bracket and mounts for a bit until it is all lined up.
Keeping the light flat on the moulding will make it
look better. You will need replace the moulding's
screw with a longer screw - it's best to also drill a
little countersink in the bracket for the screw to
secure the bracket well.
4) be sure the TBL is angled up slightly - LEDs are
brightest when you face them directly - the back end
is low so guys behind you will be up a little when
looking at your TBL.
5) You may need to cut a little hole in your tonneu so
the light will poke through (the light is removable if
you don't want to do this)
5) To be safe, LEDs should be hooked up black wire to
negative, red wire to positive.
5) Hook up a relay in the following way:
Hooking up a relay for your TBL is easy:
-----------
Brake switch ---|\ /|--- Hot Lead
| | | |
| X Relay X |
| | |/|--- TBL
Ground ---------|/ \|--- Lead from brake
----------- switch to flasher
relay (terminal 5?)
a 5 - lead Universal relays will have two switched
leads coming off of the relay where I've shown the TBL
and the lead to the flasher relay.
This is what a five pin relay looks like :
http://www.jcwhitney.com/item.jhtml?ITEMID=12329&BQ=jcw2
If you note in the picture, you can see a little
hookup diagram on the relay itself which illustrates
how the switch operates
This set up will work to give your current rear brake
lights much stronger lighting as well. The Hot lead
above should be from the hot lead pulled straight off
your voltage regulator (fused, of course). It'll take
you 30 minutes or less to hook it all up, and you can
attach the relay anywher using any existing screw in
the engine compartment. It's very easy.
If you want to remove the light, simply unscrew it -
the process will take 30 seconds.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Dr. C Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com> wrote:
> Alan for those of us who can't make it to Tahoe can
> you give us more
> specifics, i.e., source for the light and wiring
> speficics.
>
> Thanks
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Blue One Hundred"
> <international_investor@yahoo.com>
> To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2002 9:28 PM
> Subject: Re: Third brake light
>
>
> > Mike -
> >
> > If you'll be in Tahoe, I'll show you the LED third
> > brake light (TBL) I rigged up to my BN1. I
> guarantee
> > it is the coolest thing you'll ever see and looks
> like
> > original equipment.
> >
> > I think a magnetic removable TBL is a big waste of
> > effort, as you'll likely never remove it, and
> finding
> > a place to stick it to (magnetically) means it'll
> > probably look like hell when on the car. The one
> I
> > have simply uses the one middle screw of the rear
> > cockpit aluminum molding to hold in place -
> unscrewing
> > it and disconnecting the light takes a total of 30
> > seconds if for some reason I want to remove my
> third
> > brake light. As an added benefit, it still can be
> > seen if the top is up.
> >
> > RE wiring - You must wire the TBL via a relay
> which
> > connects directly to the brake switch itself...
> even
> > if you use an LED TBL (as I have). The brake
> switch
> > circuit can handle very little current (it feeds
> your
> > current brake lights through a relay already - the
> > flasher relay) - so there's very little draw on
> the
> > switch as it is. You want nice BRIGHT brake
> lights
> > which mean hooking up a relay. I can show you how
> > it's done if you're up in Tahoe on Monday - my
> healey
> > is ice blue BN1 Cal license 2HEM421 (I think).
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Alan
> >
> > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> >
> > --- Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> > > Folks--
> > >
> > > I thought that JC Whitney was the soure of the
> > > magnetic third-brake light
> > > that has been talked about on the list from time
> to
> > > time, but their catalogue
> > > shows nothing. Can anyone pont me in the right
> > > direction for a source? Moss
> > > sells one that is backordered indefinitely....
> > >
> > > Also, is it better to carry an independent wire
> from
> > > the brake switch to any
> > > third light rather than tapping into the
> original
> > > wiring to avoid dimming
> > > because of directionals?
> > > Is ther any problem with overloading of the
> brake
> > > switch and do aftermarket
> > > LED brake light consume LESS current than
> > > incandescent bulbs (I am negative
> > > ground).
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 21:32:02 -0700
Subject: Naming the Healeys
Which brings to mind some of the names my first wife called the Healeys in
some memorably angry moments! Most of those names aren't fit to send over
the internet, of course, but I did the right thing at the time - bought the
Healeys all over again!
The only name that our current tri-carb - the Tahoe car - has ever
recognized came from the first couple of weeks it was on the road after it's
restoration a few years ago. It had an intermittent starter, sometimes it
would, sometimes it wouldn't. It was frustrating - I would get into the car
and say - 'start you ****er', even before I turned the key.
I think it was an intimidation thing - very soon the condition disappeared
of it's own accord. But to this date, I've been somewhat afraid of a name
change - these cars have a habit of getting even, and I don't want to tempt
fate!
Cheers,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "patrick harris" <rotaryman at worldnet.att.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 21:53:10 -0700
Subject: car names
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 12:02:31 +0100
Subject: Re: Mystery Healey Photo
Dunno......but I wonder where it was taken? That looks like a show with
either a huge British stand or a British show....There are Austins, an
XK140, MGA, etc in view. The coat of arms on the front of the Healey
stand might be a clue...I don't recognise it. Does anyone? Do we have
Lyon King of Arms on the list? (I doubt it) - oh OK anyone else who can
identify coats of arms. It doesn't look like Earls Court though.
Peter Dzwig
Reid Trummel wrote:
>Hi Team,
>
>Please take a look at the photo of the red Healey
>Hundred at this URL and let me know if you know
>anything about it:
>
>http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/_wsn/page3.html
>
>Thanks in advance!
>
>Reid
>
>=====
>Reid Trummel
>Tampa, Florida
>100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
>http://www.healey.org
>http://www.healeyhighlights.com
>===============================
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 07:23:35 -0400
Subject: RE: Naming of cars, hats, 5-min. stumble
BTW put me down for one of those hats..
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 08:05:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Mystery Healey Photo
> http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/_wsn/page3.html
>
The crest in the photo is the oft-seen Austin crest.
John, Oostburg, WI
Home of:
'60 AH 3000
'60 Austin Mini
'69 Austin America
'80 Triumph TR8 Coupe
'80 Triumph TR7 DHC
'57 BMW Isetta
'39 Dodge Coupe
(more always welcome!)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 09:20:48 -0700
Subject: Carpet Fastener Questions
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Cory LeBlanc" <cleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 11:53:20 -0500
Subject: Re: Powdercoating Q's
Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus@iplbath.com>
To: "Healey List (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2002 3:18 AM
Subject: Powdercoating Q's
> Joe
>
> After suffering years of flaking, peeling and dulling paint of various
types, including high temperature coatings, I had my rear brake drums powder
coated grey some 6 or more years ago. The results have been excellent and
the finish still looks like new.
>
> Regards
>
> Paul
>
> Longbridge BN4 with front disks (otherwise I'd have had the fronts done at
the same time!)
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 23:30:17 -0700 (PDT)
> From: joe mulqueen <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Powdercoating Q's
>
> Hello,
> I'm preparing to powdercoat a bunch of items (from
> underdash parts to suspension pieces). Does anyone
> have experience with parts that do/don't make good
> candidates? What about the axle housing? And what
> color is most correct - gloss black and let future
> dust and dirt do its thing or go straight with satin
> black?
> Thanks for any tips!
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ZManDino at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 14:51:59 EDT
Subject: Naming Cars
Alex. & Helga Zanini
1960 BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 15:26:59 -0500
Subject: Search for Agent..NO HEALEY CONTENT. DELETE IF YOU WANT TO.
A while back I asked the list if anyone knew a literary agent who is willing to
represent unpublished authors. At that time I had my first novel, "Bodies and
Beaches" finished and proofread and was seeking an agent.
Now I am 75% through my second novel, "The Buck Hunt" another mystery, but not
in the same genre.
I know there have been a lot of people come and go on the list and maybe
someone has joined who might be able to help me. Thanks for your time and
sorry to bomb the list.
Don Yarber
BN7
Author of "Bodies and Beaches" 1998
"The Buck Hunt" 2002
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from the local club went over the car completely. Normal problems found and
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 20:52:14 EDT
Subject: Harmonic Balancer
When I examined the car before purchase I noticed excessive play in the
original water pump shaft and allowed for a water pump. So the radiator,
etc., is coming out. She reports an occasional engine noise and I greased the
water pump and will order a new one
When I grasp the fan belt and pull I notice the pulley on the crankshaft
moves about an 1/8 inch as I rotate before catching. The assembled masses
suggest a worn woodruff key, my guess is a delaminated Harmonic Balancer.
So my first question is what do the experts suggest is the most probable
cause?
Second question is how do I get this thing off with engine in car? Radiator
will be out, do I have to loosen the motor mounts etc?
I'm sure others on the list have done this before so any tips appreciated.
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 22:15:27 -0400
Subject: RE: Harmonic Balancer
You loose the bet...sorry.
The pulley is keyed directly to the crankshaft and the cause of the play
is looseness of the crankshaft nut and perhaps some key damage.
The nut can be tightened without taking the engine out but, as has been
discussed, before does require that the engine be lifted a little.
Check the archives; I think that you will find lots on this subject.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jwhlyadv@aol.com
Sent: 25-May-02 8:52 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Harmonic Balancer
A question for the list. Sally Bowers purchased a beautiful BJ7 this
week.
She brought it to my house this morning for a complete inspection and a
team
from the local club went over the car completely. Normal problems found
and
solved.
When I examined the car before purchase I noticed excessive play in the
original water pump shaft and allowed for a water pump. So the radiator,
etc., is coming out. She reports an occasional engine noise and I
greased the
water pump and will order a new one
When I grasp the fan belt and pull I notice the pulley on the crankshaft
moves about an 1/8 inch as I rotate before catching. The assembled
masses
suggest a worn woodruff key, my guess is a delaminated Harmonic
Balancer.
So my first question is what do the experts suggest is the most probable
cause?
Second question is how do I get this thing off with engine in car?
Radiator
will be out, do I have to loosen the motor mounts etc?
I'm sure others on the list have done this before so any tips
appreciated.
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Iwaah at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 22:55:01 EDT
Subject: Re: healeys@autox.team.net and Tahoe
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ira Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 21:19:49 -0700
Subject: RE: healeys@autox.team.net and Tahoe
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Iwaah@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2002 7:55 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: healeys@autox.team.net and Tahoe
You might find a place called PJ's one half block down from stateline it is
known for being a bit of the Irish but I think that it is the close's to an
English pub that I ever found in the neighborhood
John
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Claude Vaughn <dncvaughn at yahoo.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 21:54:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Right Angle Drive
Thanks,
Claude Vaughn, Atlanta
BN2
BN7
AN5
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Don Gschwind" <DGSCHWIND at prodigy.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 01:37:26 -0400
Subject: Re: naming your car
Subject: naming your car
> Do you have a name for your car? I find it interesting in reading e
mails that some people do. While I've come to realize that I
subconscientiously pet it goodnight as I go through the garage for one
last look at night, I haven't succumbed to giving it a name (yet).
> What's her (his) name? And yours? with car type, if you are willing
to publically admit it..I'll compile a list for one of the Healey
publications.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill Eggert
> Annapolis
> '67 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 22:38:55 -0700
Subject: Re: naming your car
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: <COPPIFAN@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2002 5:46 AM
Subject: naming your car
> Do you have a name for your car? I find it interesting in reading e mails
that some people do. While I've come to realize that I subconscientiously
pet it goodnight as I go through the garage for one last look at night, I
haven't succumbed to giving it a name (yet).
> What's her (his) name? And yours? with car type, if you are willing to
publically admit it..I'll compile a list for one of the Healey publications.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill Eggert
> Annapolis
> '67 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 09:43:55 EDT
Subject: Re: Harmonic Balancer
That's a bet I am happy to lose! For those of you who know Sally Bowers she
has been the owner of a tired but trusty BJ7 for years (soon to be for sale
on my website) and a very active and enthusiastic participant in Healey
events.
Last week I looked at a BJ7 for sale in a small Indiana town that had an
original asking price of $17,500. I was with a clubmember looking to buy his
first Healey. Price was now $13,000. I knew the previous owner to the seller
who had the car for years and owned a body shop. He had to sell when he ran
into financial problems. I told Paul we have to go look at this car.
What we found was BJ7 with perfect paint and bodywork, (previous owner owned
a body shop) all new chrome, new chrome wire wheels, excellent mechanicals,
47,000 miles on the odometer, engine compartment not detailed but original.
Interior by the local upholstery shop, not original but presentable. And Paul
bought the car for $10, 000. (and I would have bought it in a second if it
had been my deal)
But Paul forgot to ask his wife. She said no. So Paul gave the deal to Sally
and she bought it sight unseen. Yesterday nine of us went over the car from
top to bottom for her and declared it a great and safe car. Normal items
needed like a water pump, new brake pads, sway bar end link, etc needed.
About $200 worth of parts on order and a days labor.
It will never be Concours but it will win plenty of popularity awards and
give her years of motoring pleasure.
Jim Werner
magicare@rogers.com writes:
> Hi Jim,
>
> You loose the bet...sorry.
>
> The pulley is keyed directly to the crankshaft and the cause of the play
> is looseness of the crankshaft nut and perhaps some key damage.
>
> The nut can be tightened without taking the engine out but, as has been
> discussed, before does require that the engine be lifted a little.
>
> Check the archives; I think that you will find lots on this subject.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com/
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "N" <twobees at sprynet.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 09:45:28 -0400
Subject: 2-inch SU's Wanted
Norm Sippel
'57 100-6
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersville.edu>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 09:59:59 -0400
Subject: overdrive
Bill Moyer, BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 07:49:45 -0600
Subject: Oil pressure line
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 07:54:30 -0600
Subject: Tail lamp rings
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 15:16:47 +0100
Subject: Original ignition coil orientation?
Before I stick the new decal on my original coil, does anyone know which
side is up? As found, my BJ8 had the 'Lucas/Made in England' inscription
on the end upside-down, with the distributor (+) connection nearest to
the block.
From Gary & Roger's book it's not very clear, but looks like it might be
possibly the other way up, with the end inscription up the right way,
and the switch (-) connection nearer the block. This would be more
logical, but is the way they were?
Two years ago I would not have believed that this could possibly matter
to anyone in the world, let alone me! I'm pleased I'm not alone in my
insanity!
Any (helpful!) responses appreciated, as always.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 11:24:17 -0400
Subject: RE: overdrive
I would suspect that the switch on the side of the gear remote housing
which prevents overdrive operation in 1st, 2nd & reverse is in need of
some adjustment.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of William Moyer
Sent: 26-May-02 10:00 AM
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net '
Subject: overdrive
Anyone have an idea why overdrive would always work in fourth gear, but
only
infrequently in third? This just started, fluid is correct type and
amount,
clutch was replaced professionally (i.e., not me) within last 500 miles.
Bill Moyer, BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 11:35:10 -0400
Subject: RE: Oil pressure line
Item one the oil pressure line.
I would very much doubt that you will find a satisfactory replacement
locally.
Old rally drivers trick. If you are confident that you have good oil
pressure remove the old line, cut it and remove the "engine end" nut,
then refit the nut to the union with an appropriately sized ball bearing
under it to block off the hole.
Item two the chrome rings.
I use the plastic pocket clip from a pen cap to work my way around the
outer perimeter of the rim and lift the rubber over it. The trick is to
engage the rim under the rubber on the hard to reach side then use the
pen clip on the more accessible side. Don't use a small screwdriver or
anything metal, if it slips you will scratch the paint.
Weather here is much too good to miss a days driving.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ward Stebner
Sent: 26-May-02 9:50 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Oil pressure line
Does anyone happen to know if the oil pressure line on a BN2 would be
available from a local source on this beautiful Sunday morning? I just
brought my car home from the body shop after a lengthy restoration and I
find that my oil pressure line( the one with the braided steel casing)
has sprung a leak. Is this a common line or one that will only be
available from one of the specialists? I will be purchasing an accurate
oil line on Monday but would just like to drive today if I can.
Thanks in advance.
Ward Stebner
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 12:45:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Oil pressure line
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ward Stebner" <liason@sk.sympatico.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2002 8:49 AM
Subject: Oil pressure line
> Does anyone happen to know if the oil pressure line on a BN2 would be
> available from a local source on this beautiful Sunday morning? I just
> brought my car home from the body shop after a lengthy restoration and I
> find that my oil pressure line( the one with the braided steel casing)
> has sprung a leak. Is this a common line or one that will only be
> available from one of the specialists? I will be purchasing an accurate
> oil line on Monday but would just like to drive today if I can.
> Thanks in advance.
> Ward Stebner
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John May <jdmay at attglobal.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 13:49:03 -0400
Subject: Open Roads Tahoe Information
www.healey2002.com
John May
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ira Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 12:40:06 -0700
Subject: RE: Tail lamp rings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Ward Stebner
Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2002 6:55 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Tail lamp rings
Does anyone have a trick for getting the chrome trim ring into the
rubber lamp body after it is installed on the car? Do you leave the
attaching screws loose then snug them down after installing the chrome
ring? Help is very much appreciated on this small but annoying detail.
Ward Stebner
Saskatoon, SK
1956 BN2
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 12:43:09 -0700
Subject: Re: healeys@autox.team.net and Tahoe
Time: After looking over the extremely packed schedule I propose that we meet on
the first official night, Sunday June 23rd. There is the Opening Cocktail
reception with Gerry Coker from 6pm to 8pm. At 8pm we can meet at the pub and
bring any of our non-list friends along (Gerry included).
If some of the listers are arriving later ... day 2, 3, 4 etc. and want to
propose a second seating (or 3rd, 4th, etc) for the Openbar 2002 that could be a
good idea and I'm sure many from the first seating will want to attend too
(being
a friendly and thirsty lot)
So first seating of the Openbar 2002 is Sunday June 23rd, 8pm at the pub closest
to the hotel. Agreed?
-John
Chairman Healeys@autox.team.net Openbar 2002
p.s. please put me down for a hat
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 16:05:45 -0700
Subject: re:Harmonic Balancer
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Welch <bobw at gmnameplate.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 14:19:26 -0700
Subject: BN7 slave cylinder dilemma
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 14:31:09 -0700
Subject: Eastbound from Tahoe
My wife and I will travel eastbound from Tahoe at the close of Open Roads
2002 to the Denver area (Aspen, CO) to visit with friends for a few days
before heading home to the west coast.
I am looking to possibly link up with any eastbound Healey group (or
individual) that is planning to use some combination of Hwy 50 and I-70 into
the Denver area, leaving Tahoe on Friday morning, June 28. Our tri-carb is
CB radio equipped. Back roads are always preferable!
If appropriate, please respond off list, so that I have a chance at room
reservations, etc.
Thanks,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7
'67 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 16:31:41 -0500
Subject: Re: BN7 slave cylinder dilemma
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 14:48:17 -0700
Subject: Re: BN7 slave cylinder dilemma
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Welch" <bobw@gmnameplate.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2002 2:19 PM
Subject: BN7 slave cylinder dilemma
> I have a 1960 BN7 that has had it's hydraulic system's gaskets give up
> holding pressure.
> I've removed and rebuilt the master cylinder but got under the car to find
> the slave cylinder is not only next to impossible (for the most part
> IMPOSSIBLE) to get a wrench on and the same issue goes for the bleed
nipple
> for bleeding if and when the slave cylinder could be
> remove/repaired/replaced...anybody have any slick/tricky/crafty ways to
get
> the is pesky dilemma resolved..my best out I can se is to open an access
> panel in the side of the foot well in the riders side to open a space for
> socket for the bolt and a bleed tube for the bleed nipple, and build a
plug
> (or use rubber plug from the tranny oil dipstick check
> opening to close up the access hole..
> All thoughts would be welcome
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From NPaul72464 at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 18:16:16 EDT
Subject: Re: BN7 slave cylinder dilemma
Ned Paulsen
Rochester, NY
1960 BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Rod Stewart" <stewartr at msu.edu>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 18:38:27 -0400
Subject: Transmission Question's
Upon disassembly of the transmission I discovered that one of the five
interlocking balls was missing, the one between the 1st and 2nd speed fork
rod and the 3rd and 4th speed fork rod. I think that this will resolve the
lockup issue but would like to hear any suggestions from the list.
Pictures of the shift rods are at www.msu.edu/user/stewartr
The reverse shift rod has a obvious gouge that has been ground down by
someone prior to me. While it looks nasty I don't see it being involved in
the lockup problem. Otherwise wears look acceptable to my uneducated eye.
Any suggestions are welcomed.
On last surprise. As I was rotating the transmission-overdrive around on the
bench what looks like half of a bronze thrust washer dropped out from the
O/D oil drain opening. I have split the O/D from the transmission but have
not yet opened the O/D unit further. I have had no problems with the O/D
since purchasing the car two years ago. Do I need to open up the O/D and
find out if there is a broken/missing thrust washer? I am just a "do it
yourself after reading the manual wrencher" and don't want to get in over my
head without sufficient cause.
TIA
Rod Stewart
1960 BT7 driver
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 17:57:58 -0500
Subject: A-arm removal , Help!
WOW! not a fun day.
Thanks in advance,
Mark,
58-MGA
60-MGA
76-MGB
74.5-MGBGT
60-BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 20:15:28 EDT
Subject: British Car Week Picnic in MD debriefing
And now for the Awards (there were no awards):
The Oldest Car Trophy (had there been one) would have gone to one of the two
mid-30's vintage Bentley sedans. As they say in Philly: "What a pair!"
The Longest Distance Travelled Award (If awards had been given out would) was
absolutely swept by Healey drivers, but the decision-making process (if there
were one) would have been tough: Steve Byers drove in from Havelock, NC, a
distance of 370 miles, but he arrived in a Miata and was, unfortunately,
disqualified. Charlie and Elaine Baldwin came down from York, PA but in an
MG-TD--earning 125 mileage points plus a vintage bonus of 100 points. The
winners (had there been any) would have been Charley and and Nancy Braum in
a beautiful 100 from Elizabeth (Pittsburgh) Pa, with 278 mileage points. I
wish them and all a safe trip home.
The Marque Attendance Trophy (had one been given out) would have been an
equally difficult decision, as The Capital Triumph Register and the Capital
Area Austin-Healey Club both fielded 15 cars each, with MG's a car behind.
Given that it is generally considered harder to keep a Healey running than it
is a Triumph, the award (had there been one) would have gone to (my
club!)--The Capital Area AHC!
But the Best in Show award would have been easy: It would have gone to all
of those who made the effort to drive down and have a good time together. No
question but that we will do this again next year! Thanks to all that came
out and joined us in enjoying our British Cars.
Best--Michael Oritt, 1955 100 LeMans
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 20:12:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Tail lamp rings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ward Stebner" Subject: Tail lamp rings
> Does anyone have a trick for getting the chrome trim ring into the
> rubber lamp body after it is installed on the car? Do you leave the
> attaching screws loose then snug them down after installing the chrome
> ring? Help is very much appreciated on this small but annoying detail.
> Ward Stebner
> Saskatoon, SK
> 1956 BN2
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 21:23:04 -0400
Subject: RE: A-arm removal , Help!
A truly horrible job that can bring tears to restorer's eyes.
The problem is, as you have guessed, that the inner sleeve of the steel
and rubber bush is seized to the pin and the hole in the frame bracket,
through which you must extract the pin, is not big enough to accept the
sleeve let alone the flange that is on the original style of bush.
Generally speaking these bushes last for ever unless they get oil soaked
so in hindsight you may understand why I recommend that you leave the
originals in place unless there is some obvious problem. You can, unless
very careful, actually subject the frame bracket and frame section to
sever trauma in attempting to remove these things.
Pretty well the only way to get them out is to use the "blue wrench" to
burn away all the rubber (hope you have a detached garage) then,
judiciously, use the same instrument to cut the inner sleeve of the
bushes, preferably without damaging the pin to which it is seized.
Sometimes you get lucky and will find that heating the sleeve to red hot
will allow you to pry the pin out without actually having to cut the
sleeve.
Once you have done 40 or 50 sets you will get quite good at it :-).
BTW don't let the melting rubber drip down onto your sock. It burns a
nasty little crater in you skin while you hop around brandishing a
cutting torch looking for a bucket of water to plunge your foot into.
Good luck!!!
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mark and kathy LaPierre
Sent: 26-May-02 6:58 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: A-arm removal , Help!
After searching the archives , I give up. I am not finding usable
information. Can someone advise me on how to remove the ?!?##?^%
inner
a-arm bushings on my 60-BT7. I have done TRs, and MGs but this set up
beats
all. I got the castle nut off (no problem) but how the hell do you get
a
decent angle to knock the bolt out and its obvious the bolt can't be
turned
with the welded washer and screw slot. Its a given that the bolt can
not
be gently taped out, they are frozen in the rubber and steel sleeves and
are
going to need some heavy persuasion.
I have used some releasing sprays and some heat to no avail.
This set up is one of the worst I have seen in a long time as far as
being technician friendly.
Why a screw driver slot, with a welded washer. There is no way possible
to
get any leverage to turn this thing and try to work it loose, period.
Why
not a nice hefty bolt to twist on like the MGAs have? At least we have
a
chance to complete the job with out loosing our minds over it. Is it
too
late to change the design now? : )
WOW! not a fun day.
Thanks in advance,
Mark,
58-MGA
60-MGA
76-MGB
74.5-MGBGT
60-BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rmoment at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 21:28:28 EDT
Subject: O'dr quiz
The car is a BN1.
1) On day (1) the overdrive worked/engaged just fine.
2) On day (2) it didn't work at all.
3) Checking out the electrical circuits showed that all components were
operating exactly as they are supposed to.
4) With the car up on jack stands and running, the solenoid operated when
the speedometer reached 40 mph as it is supposed to. It also released when
the throttle switch was appropriately depressed after flipping the panel
switch to "Normal". (All this was part of the electrical check above).
5) Testing with a pressure gage showed no (read zero!!) oil pressure.
There are only a few possiblities that could result in the observed test
results.
I'll give you all the answer in a few days and explain how the rather easy
fix was done.
Roger
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rmoment at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 21:33:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Tail lamp rings
Roger
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From DAKDAKDAK at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 21:43:35 -0400
Subject: Block Expansion Plug Replacement
This is a cramped space to work in. What is the procedure for removing and
replacing the plug? Thanks for any info and have a good memorial day weekend.
dak
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 18:44:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Harmonic Balancer
Only later model BJ8s have a pulley which can come
loose if the harmonic balancer delaminates.
A loose pulley on a BJ7 means either the dognut is
loose or the woodruff key is shot. You have to pull
the pulley to figure it out.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Jwhlyadv@aol.com wrote:
> A question for the list. Sally Bowers purchased a
> beautiful BJ7 this week.
> She brought it to my house this morning for a
> complete inspection and a team
> from the local club went over the car completely.
> Normal problems found and
> solved.
>
> When I examined the car before purchase I noticed
> excessive play in the
> original water pump shaft and allowed for a water
> pump. So the radiator,
> etc., is coming out. She reports an occasional
> engine noise and I greased the
> water pump and will order a new one
>
> When I grasp the fan belt and pull I notice the
> pulley on the crankshaft
> moves about an 1/8 inch as I rotate before catching.
> The assembled masses
> suggest a worn woodruff key, my guess is a
> delaminated Harmonic Balancer.
>
> So my first question is what do the experts suggest
> is the most probable
> cause?
>
> Second question is how do I get this thing off with
> engine in car? Radiator
> will be out, do I have to loosen the motor mounts
> etc?
>
> I'm sure others on the list have done this before so
> any tips appreciated.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 18:38:34 -0700
Subject: Re: BN7 slave cylinder dilemma
There are some tricks that a few of us have learned over the years to make
these truly ugly jobs a bit easier.
Jerry's suggestion - remove the trans cover is what I usually do - I find it
much easier to get at the slave bolts, especially the top one, from inside
the car. That way, you can avoid cutting any holes in anything.
One way to enable you to get at the upper slave bolt from below in the
future, without the necessity of removing the trans cover, is to get a
slightly longer bolt, and run a thick nut onto it and tighten it against the
head. This creates a spacer which allows the head of the bolt to protrude
just enough beyond the body of the cylinder to get a wrench on it from
below - the next time. It's picky, but it works - I've had that setup on
the BJ8 for many years - getting the trans cover off of a BJ8 involves a lot
more than on the earlier cars! Always start the upper bolt first - that
way, you can swing the cylinder partially out of the way for more access.
Another trick enables you to bleed the slave cyl. without using the bleed
screw. Temporarily install the slave to the bellhouse and install the hose.
You do this in order to correctly orient the hose so it has no kinks or
twists that could cause problems later. (the bolts don't have to be super
tight, just so the cyl is in place.)
Then remove the bolts and let the slave hang on the hose, open the bleed
screw, fill the reservoir, and wait while gravity does its work. When you
see a bit of fluid at the bleed screw, close it permanently. ( you need a
bit of fluid in the system for this to work).
Make sure the reservoir is topped up, and stroke the clutch pedal until you
feel a definite resistance - the piston will be all the way out, right up
against the circlip. (I do this with my hand) Don't push on the pedal
beyond this point - you can blow the circlip right out of the cyl! Hold the
cyl so that the hose is uppermost - you want to collect the air at the hose
opening - and push the piston all the way in with a screwdriver. The fluid,
along with the air gets pushed into the reservoir, lots of air bubbles will
rise to the top of the reservoir.
Go back to the pedal and stroke it again - now you'll be forcing fluid with
no air into the system. About 3 - 4 strokes, and you'll come up hard against
the circlip again. Get under the car and push the piston again, always
holding the cylinder with the hose uppermost.
Repeat this whole procedure until there are no more air bubbles being pushed
into the reservoir. (it helps to have someone watching and reporting what
is happening at the resevoir) Bolt up the slave cyl, install eveything that
you removed to do the job, and go driving!
I find this method a lot easier than trying to operate the bleed screw with
the cylinder mounted, and bleeding in the normal way, with brake fluid
usually dribbling evrywhere. It sounds more complicated than it really is -
once you've done it you'll understand, and hopefully agree.
Hope this helps.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
---- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Welch" <bobw@gmnameplate.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2002 2:19 PM
Subject: BN7 slave cylinder dilemma
I have a 1960 BN7 that has had it's hydraulic system's gaskets give up
holding pressure.
I've removed and rebuilt the master cylinder but got under the car to find
the slave cylinder is not only next to impossible (for the most part
IMPOSSIBLE) to get a wrench on and the same issue goes for the bleed nipple
for bleeding if and when the slave cylinder could be
remove/repaired/replaced...anybody have any slick/tricky/crafty ways to get
the is pesky dilemma resolved..my best out I can se is to open an access
panel in the side of the foot well in the riders side to open a space for
socket for the bolt and a bleed tube for the bleed nipple, and build a plug
(or use rubber plug from the tranny oil dipstick check
opening to close up the access hole..
All thoughts would be welcome
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 19:01:22 -0700
Subject: Re: Transmission Question's
Sounds like your gearbox diagnosis is correct - a missing interlock ball
will cause the problems that you describe. In my opinion, the trick now is
to see what other damage might have been done. The whole gearbox should be
dismantled and inspected and corrected as necessary. You don't want to be
doing this all over again in a couple of years.
The overdrive is in the same category - its got some serious problems. That
is about one half of the sunwheel thrust washer - one has to wonder where
the rest of it is! Again, I would recommend a complete dismantling and
inspection of the overdrive. To not do so almost gurantees that you will
damage the expensive parts, if that has not already happened.
Sorry that the story isn't better - do it once - do it right.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rod Stewart" <stewartr@msu.edu>
To: "Austin-Healey List (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2002 3:38 PM
Subject: Transmission Question's
I have had the transmission of my '60 BT7 "lock up" on me several times
while attempting to select 1st gear from reverse. After several anxious
minutes of going forward, stopping, and stirring the shift lever the
"lockup" would mysteriously vanish. My guess is that two gears were engaged
at the same time. With the shifter in neutral the car would proceed forward
in what I think was second gear. With any gear selected you could not
release the clutch without stalling. The transmission would not turn!
Upon disassembly of the transmission I discovered that one of the five
interlocking balls was missing, the one between the 1st and 2nd speed fork
rod and the 3rd and 4th speed fork rod. I think that this will resolve the
lockup issue but would like to hear any suggestions from the list.
Pictures of the shift rods are at www.msu.edu/user/stewartr
The reverse shift rod has a obvious gouge that has been ground down by
someone prior to me. While it looks nasty I don't see it being involved in
the lockup problem. Otherwise wears look acceptable to my uneducated eye.
Any suggestions are welcomed.
On last surprise. As I was rotating the transmission-overdrive around on the
bench what looks like half of a bronze thrust washer dropped out from the
O/D oil drain opening. I have split the O/D from the transmission but have
not yet opened the O/D unit further. I have had no problems with the O/D
since purchasing the car two years ago. Do I need to open up the O/D and
find out if there is a broken/missing thrust washer? I am just a "do it
yourself after reading the manual wrencher" and don't want to get in over my
head without sufficient cause.
TIA
Rod Stewart
1960 BT7 driver
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From meditionm at netscape.net
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 22:03:27 -0400
Subject: RE: A-arm removal , Help!
Ken Mason
BJ7 (someday)
"Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net> wrote:
> B B After searching the archives , I give up. B I am not finding usable
>information. B Can someone advise me on how to remove the ?!?##?^% B inner
>a-arm bushings on my 60-BT7. B I have done TRs, and MGs but this set up beats
>all. B I got the castle nut off (no problem) but how the hell do you get a
>decent angle to knock the bolt out and its obvious the bolt can't be turned
>with the welded washer and screw slot. B Its a given that the bolt can not
>be gently taped out, they are frozen in the rubber and steel sleeves and are
>going to need some heavy persuasion.
> B B I have used some releasing sprays and some heat to no avail.
> B B This set up is one of the worst I have seen in a long time as far as
>being technician friendly.
>Why a screw driver slot, with a welded washer. There is no way possible to
>get any leverage to turn this thing and try to work it loose, B period. Why
>not a nice hefty bolt to twist on like the MGAs have? B At least we have a
>chance to complete the job with out loosing our minds over it. B Is it too
>late to change the design now? : )
>
>WOW! not a fun day.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Mark,
>58-MGA
>60-MGA
>76-MGB
>74.5-MGBGT
>60-BT7
__________________________________________________________________
Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience
the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape!
http://shopnow.netscape.com/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From john lakie <doelakie at yahoo.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 19:09:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: BJ8 console trim
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 12:14:16 +1000
Subject: RE: BN7 slave cylinder dilemma
Now that's a coincidence. A couple of weeks back I removed the gearbox covers
in the BN3 to do a bit of cleaning and also try to eliminating some of the
places where the hot air comes in. Only to find that the clutch slave cylinder
was weeping. So it was removed and a decision made to fit a stainless steel
sleeve.
Yes it was far easier to remove while the covers are off but I have done it
before with them on. The car has the clutch arrangement of a 100 but modified
to hydraulic. What the DHMC did back when they built the car in 54 was to cut a
section out of the chassis rail adjacent to the cylinder and then reverse and
weld the L section back in. Works well but is still fiddly.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: Earl Kagna [mailto:kags@shaw.ca]
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2002 11:39 AM
To: Bob Welch
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: BN7 slave cylinder dilemma
Bob:
There are some tricks that a few of us have learned over the years to make
these truly ugly jobs a bit easier.
Jerry's suggestion - remove the trans cover is what I usually do - I find it
much easier to get at the slave bolts, especially the top one, from inside
the car. That way, you can avoid cutting any holes in anything.
One way to enable you to get at the upper slave bolt from below in the
future, without the necessity of removing the trans cover, is to get a
slightly longer bolt, and run a thick nut onto it and tighten it against the
head. This creates a spacer which allows the head of the bolt to protrude
just enough beyond the body of the cylinder to get a wrench on it from
below - the next time. It's picky, but it works - I've had that setup on
the BJ8 for many years - getting the trans cover off of a BJ8 involves a lot
more than on the earlier cars! Always start the upper bolt first - that
way, you can swing the cylinder partially out of the way for more access.
Another trick enables you to bleed the slave cyl. without using the bleed
screw. Temporarily install the slave to the bellhouse and install the hose.
You do this in order to correctly orient the hose so it has no kinks or
twists that could cause problems later. (the bolts don't have to be super
tight, just so the cyl is in place.)
Then remove the bolts and let the slave hang on the hose, open the bleed
screw, fill the reservoir, and wait while gravity does its work. When you
see a bit of fluid at the bleed screw, close it permanently. ( you need a
bit of fluid in the system for this to work).
Make sure the reservoir is topped up, and stroke the clutch pedal until you
feel a definite resistance - the piston will be all the way out, right up
against the circlip. (I do this with my hand) Don't push on the pedal
beyond this point - you can blow the circlip right out of the cyl! Hold the
cyl so that the hose is uppermost - you want to collect the air at the hose
opening - and push the piston all the way in with a screwdriver. The fluid,
along with the air gets pushed into the reservoir, lots of air bubbles will
rise to the top of the reservoir.
Go back to the pedal and stroke it again - now you'll be forcing fluid with
no air into the system. About 3 - 4 strokes, and you'll come up hard against
the circlip again. Get under the car and push the piston again, always
holding the cylinder with the hose uppermost.
Repeat this whole procedure until there are no more air bubbles being pushed
into the reservoir. (it helps to have someone watching and reporting what
is happening at the resevoir) Bolt up the slave cyl, install eveything that
you removed to do the job, and go driving!
I find this method a lot easier than trying to operate the bleed screw with
the cylinder mounted, and bleeding in the normal way, with brake fluid
usually dribbling evrywhere. It sounds more complicated than it really is -
once you've done it you'll understand, and hopefully agree.
Hope this helps.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 21:19:13 -0500
Subject: Re: A-arm removal , Help!
> BTW don't let the melting rubber drip down onto your sock. It burns a
> nasty little crater in you skin while you hop around brandishing a
> cutting torch looking for a bucket of water to plunge your foot into.
Damn! I thought that I was the only one!! I did it twice before I got the
drift
of how to do it. Either one needs longer hoses on one's acetelyene setup or a
prefilled 5 gallon bucket. Wanna compare scars??
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 528 (New census numbers)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 19:28:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: BN7 slave cylinder dilemma
Did you pull that procedure out of the Official
Bentleys or Haynes BN3 manual (print run of 2)?
What's your thoughts on the BN3's 2+2 set up, or have
you ever had the gumption to put it back to a 2 seater
configuration?
RE the slave, I believe that David Nock sells (or has
specs) on a bent L wrench which you can use to access
the slave bleed screw without removing the tunnel
cover. Contact him for details.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
wrote:
> Greetings
>
> Now that's a coincidence. A couple of weeks back I
> removed the gearbox covers in the BN3 to do a bit of
> cleaning and also try to eliminating some of the
> places where the hot air comes in. Only to find that
> the clutch slave cylinder was weeping. So it was
> removed and a decision made to fit a stainless steel
> sleeve.
>
> Yes it was far easier to remove while the covers are
> off but I have done it before with them on. The car
> has the clutch arrangement of a 100 but modified to
> hydraulic. What the DHMC did back when they built
> the car in 54 was to cut a section out of the
> chassis rail adjacent to the cylinder and then
> reverse and weld the L section back in. Works well
> but is still fiddly.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
> 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
> 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Earl Kagna [mailto:kags@shaw.ca]
> Sent: Monday, May 27, 2002 11:39 AM
> To: Bob Welch
> Cc: Healey List
> Subject: Re: BN7 slave cylinder dilemma
>
>
> Bob:
>
> There are some tricks that a few of us have learned
> over the years to make
> these truly ugly jobs a bit easier.
>
> Jerry's suggestion - remove the trans cover is what
> I usually do - I find it
> much easier to get at the slave bolts, especially
> the top one, from inside
> the car. That way, you can avoid cutting any holes
> in anything.
>
> One way to enable you to get at the upper slave bolt
> from below in the
> future, without the necessity of removing the trans
> cover, is to get a
> slightly longer bolt, and run a thick nut onto it
> and tighten it against the
> head. This creates a spacer which allows the head
> of the bolt to protrude
> just enough beyond the body of the cylinder to get a
> wrench on it from
> below - the next time. It's picky, but it works -
> I've had that setup on
> the BJ8 for many years - getting the trans cover off
> of a BJ8 involves a lot
> more than on the earlier cars! Always start the
> upper bolt first - that
> way, you can swing the cylinder partially out of the
> way for more access.
>
> Another trick enables you to bleed the slave cyl.
> without using the bleed
> screw. Temporarily install the slave to the
> bellhouse and install the hose.
> You do this in order to correctly orient the hose so
> it has no kinks or
> twists that could cause problems later. (the bolts
> don't have to be super
> tight, just so the cyl is in place.)
>
> Then remove the bolts and let the slave hang on the
> hose, open the bleed
> screw, fill the reservoir, and wait while gravity
> does its work. When you
> see a bit of fluid at the bleed screw, close it
> permanently. ( you need a
> bit of fluid in the system for this to work).
>
> Make sure the reservoir is topped up, and stroke the
> clutch pedal until you
> feel a definite resistance - the piston will be all
> the way out, right up
> against the circlip. (I do this with my hand)
> Don't push on the pedal
> beyond this point - you can blow the circlip right
> out of the cyl! Hold the
> cyl so that the hose is uppermost - you want to
> collect the air at the hose
> opening - and push the piston all the way in with a
> screwdriver. The fluid,
> along with the air gets pushed into the reservoir,
> lots of air bubbles will
> rise to the top of the reservoir.
>
> Go back to the pedal and stroke it again - now
> you'll be forcing fluid with
> no air into the system. About 3 - 4 strokes, and
> you'll come up hard against
> the circlip again. Get under the car and push the
> piston again, always
> holding the cylinder with the hose uppermost.
>
> Repeat this whole procedure until there are no more
> air bubbles being pushed
> into the reservoir. (it helps to have someone
> watching and reporting what
> is happening at the resevoir) Bolt up the slave
> cyl, install eveything that
> you removed to do the job, and go driving!
>
> I find this method a lot easier than trying to
> operate the bleed screw with
> the cylinder mounted, and bleeding in the normal
> way, with brake fluid
> usually dribbling evrywhere. It sounds more
> complicated than it really is -
> once you've done it you'll understand, and hopefully
> agree.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B.C. Canada
> '62 BT7 tri-carb
> '67 BJ8
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 13:10:29 +1000
Subject: RE: BN7 slave cylinder dilemma
I'm afraid that restoring the BN3/1 was very much a 'suck and see' procedure as
there was very little written about the car. BN3/4 is a very different car and
despite being longer is still a two seater.
My car actually started life as one of the pre-production AH 100s and was
retained by the DHMC until 1955 when it sold off. Besides being used for the
experimental work for both four and six cylinder engines it was also the car
used by Jensen to test DMH's idea of a four seater design while still having
the standard 100 wheelbase.
Sadly it has now come to a stage when it is just not possible for my wife and I
to use the car with our two younger kids. It's amazing how long the legs are of
a 13 and 10 year old.
The thought of converting the first four seater AH to a two seater has never
entered my mind.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: Blue One Hundred [mailto:international_investor@yahoo.com]
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2002 12:28 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: RE: BN7 slave cylinder dilemma
Patrick et al.,
Did you pull that procedure out of the Official
Bentleys or Haynes BN3 manual (print run of 2)?
What's your thoughts on the BN3's 2+2 set up, or have
you ever had the gumption to put it back to a 2 seater
configuration?
RE the slave, I believe that David Nock sells (or has
specs) on a bent L wrench which you can use to access
the slave bleed screw without removing the tunnel
cover. Contact him for details.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
wrote:
> Greetings
>
> Now that's a coincidence. A couple of weeks back I
> removed the gearbox covers in the BN3 to do a bit of
> cleaning and also try to eliminating some of the
> places where the hot air comes in. Only to find that
> the clutch slave cylinder was weeping. So it was
> removed and a decision made to fit a stainless steel
> sleeve.
>
> Yes it was far easier to remove while the covers are
> off but I have done it before with them on. The car
> has the clutch arrangement of a 100 but modified to
> hydraulic. What the DHMC did back when they built
> the car in 54 was to cut a section out of the
> chassis rail adjacent to the cylinder and then
> reverse and weld the L section back in. Works well
> but is still fiddly.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
> 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
> 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 22:27:00 -0500
Subject: Re: A-arm removal , Help!
Thanks, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Salter <magicare@rogers.com>
To: 'Mark and kathy LaPierre' <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2002 8:23 PM
Subject: RE: A-arm removal , Help!
> Hi Mark,
>
> A truly horrible job that can bring tears to restorer's eyes.
>
> The problem is, as you have guessed, that the inner sleeve of the steel
> and rubber bush is seized to the pin and the hole in the frame bracket,
> through which you must extract the pin, is not big enough to accept the
> sleeve let alone the flange that is on the original style of bush.
>
> Generally speaking these bushes last for ever unless they get oil soaked
> so in hindsight you may understand why I recommend that you leave the
> originals in place unless there is some obvious problem. You can, unless
> very careful, actually subject the frame bracket and frame section to
> sever trauma in attempting to remove these things.
>
> Pretty well the only way to get them out is to use the "blue wrench" to
> burn away all the rubber (hope you have a detached garage) then,
> judiciously, use the same instrument to cut the inner sleeve of the
> bushes, preferably without damaging the pin to which it is seized.
> Sometimes you get lucky and will find that heating the sleeve to red hot
> will allow you to pry the pin out without actually having to cut the
> sleeve.
>
> Once you have done 40 or 50 sets you will get quite good at it :-).
>
> BTW don't let the melting rubber drip down onto your sock. It burns a
> nasty little crater in you skin while you hop around brandishing a
> cutting torch looking for a bucket of water to plunge your foot into.
>
> Good luck!!!
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com/
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 00:01:17 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil pressure line
Amen.
Keith Pennell
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Len and Dorothy Kirby <l-dkirby at shaw.ca>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 21:23:31 -0700
Subject: First Drive
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 00:26:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Tail lamp rings
I have tried various metal and plastic, lubricated and nonlubricated
thingies. From all this something inevitably slips and you gouge yourself
or worse yet the paint. Just recently I replaced the two colorless lenses
on the front with amber and used nothing but fingers. Used a thunb to roll
back a 1/2 inch at a time and tucked the trim ring under. Not high tech,
not slick, took a few minutes, but definitely the safest to paint and body
parts!
Keith Pennell
> Does anyone have a trick for getting the chrome trim ring into the
> rubber lamp body after it is installed on the car? Do you leave the
> attaching screws loose then snug them down after installing the chrome
> ring? Help is very much appreciated on this small but annoying detail.
> Ward Stebner
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Bumpus <jbumpus at shaw.ca>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 21:10:58 -0700
Subject: lucus driving lights
All the Best Bumpy BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 00:33:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: re. A-arm removal , Help!
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 17:57:58 -0500
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre"
<mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Subject: A-arm removal , Help!
After searching the archives , I give up. I am
not finding usable
information. Can someone advise me on how to remove
the ?!?##?^%
inner
a-arm bushings on my 60-BT7.
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 08:06:01 -0500
Subject: Re: re. A-arm removal , Help!
Thanks, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: joe mulqueen <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2002 2:33 AM
Subject: re. A-arm removal , Help!
> I had the same angry frustration with my '60 BT7 last
> month. Since I didn't have access to an oxy acetaline
> torch, I purchased a $40 Harbor Freight (made in
> China) variable speed "sawzall" tool and carefully cut
> them out. The process was quick and harmless since I
> had plenty of room with the drive train previously
> removed. I used the same process for the equally
> frustrating rear springs.
> NOTE: If you resort to any torch method, use a
> charcoal canister respirator. Rubber fumes are
> extremely hazardous (and will give you an 8 hr
> headache)!
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 08:10:40 -0500
Subject: Re: First Drive
> Well listers today was the day. The "Beast" was road tested, no seats, no
lights, but what fun. For the first time in a long time I was able to drive
our BJ8, granted it was just around the neighbourhood. The car ran very well
a few minor leaks as per usual with a rebuilt engine but nothing serious. My
sincere thanks to Roy Moore of Victoria for all his help. Len 35624
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 11:36:33 EDT
Subject: Re: healeys@autox.team.net and Tahoe
With parking situation on Sunday night and the volumn of cars that we are
going to have to move on Monday morning for the popular choice car show (600)
I would suggest using the place closest on Monday night and leavig the cars
in the parking lot, in the assigned locations.
The count down has now began only 27 days until the largest Healey Meet ever
in the world, as of right now we are at 700 registrations and aproximtly 600
cars. So we will see you all there and travel safe.
David Nock
co/chaiman Healey International 2002
June 23/28 2002
Horizon Casino Resort
Lake Tahoe, Nevada
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International
2002</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at iprimus.com.au>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 23:48:57 +0800
Subject: close ratio gears
Can someone advise me of the gearbox ratios that are commonly referred to as
the 'Tulip ratios' devised by the Morley twins in 1960 and also the 'Sebring
' close ratios of the same era?
TIA
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 on the road
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete at catey.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 18:47:03 +0200
Subject: Owners manual in other language
Is any of you aware of the existence of owners manuals in another language
than English ?
I was wondering if the car delivered in France for example would have an
owners manual in French rather than in English.
If so any place to by these local editions?
Best regards,
Bruno Verstraete
AH BJ8 1966
BN1 Coupe 54
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 10:02:36 -0700
Subject: Re: healeys@autox.team.net and Tahoe
Good Lord - 700! Remember when you guys were worried that you wouldn't get
300 registrations? It's going to take me the whole bloody week just to find
my friends! We'll walk to the pub - lookin' forward to it all.
Cheers,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <loftusdesign@cox.net>; <eyera3@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2002 8:36 AM
Subject: Re: healeys@autox.team.net and Tahoe
We just returned from Tahoe on planning trip number100 and we are on the
count down only 27 days and counting. The closest place to the Horizon is
caled "The Pub Tahoe" and is a very nice place, small and close by. The
other place is about a 5 minute drive just past Ski Run Blvd it is a lot
more
of a traditional pub that the other place and is called "Mulligans".
With parking situation on Sunday night and the volumn of cars that we are
going to have to move on Monday morning for the popular choice car show
(600)
I would suggest using the place closest on Monday night and leavig the cars
in the parking lot, in the assigned locations.
The count down has now began only 27 days until the largest Healey Meet ever
in the world, as of right now we are at 700 registrations and aproximtly 600
cars. So we will see you all there and travel safe.
David Nock
co/chaiman Healey International 2002
June 23/28 2002
Horizon Casino Resort
Lake Tahoe, Nevada
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International
2002</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 11:20:29 -0700
Subject: Re: Block Expansion Plug Replacement
I went through this a few months ago.
You'll need to remove carbs, intake and exhaust manifolds. I used a
combination of cold chisel and large screwdrivers to poke through and lever
them out of the block. Be careful not to damage the hole walls. They have
brass replacement plugs at NAPA, I believe--they weren't easy to find. Seal
the plugs with drying Permatex--Type A if I recall. Was unable to do those
on the back of the engine. Last plug on the bottom in the rear--got it out,
but had to replace it with a rubber plug as I was unable to hammer a new one
in. Used a large socket wrench to hammer them in.
Harbor Freight's catalog/website has a freeze plug remover/installer and I
was not able to tell from them whether it'll fit Healey plugs or even how it
works. Calling their customer service at the catalog was useless. It may be
a possibility.
As far as I know in order to replace the ones between the engine and
firewall, you'll have to pull the engine.
When you've got the plugs out of the side of the engine, you can back flush
the engine and reach in between the cylinders with a piece of wire, your
fingers, etc. to remove all the built-up rust flakes and muck in the bottom
of the block. This is a good side benefit.
I made a back flusher out of a combination of the shortest radiator hose I
could buy of the right diameter (it's about 3" long), a hose clamp, a
threaded pvc pipe nipple and a garden hose shutoff. This clamps up to the
water pump outlet. The shutoff allows you to keep the hose pressurized and
turn it on and off as needed.
Good luck
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 11:52:22 -0700
Subject: Tip
The adjustable hub steering wheel has a slotted stator tube, in which a
notch on the trafficator assembly is free to move back-and-forth, but
not side-to-side. This is what prevents the trafficator from turning with
the steering wheel.
The trafficator is retained with two set screws, which have a tapered
tip. There is a (peripheral ) slot on the trafficator into which the set
screws
extend and prevent the trafficator from being pulled out.
Here's the tip: DO NOT screw the set screws in until they seem to bottom.
This will cause the screws to bind against the trafficator slot, and the
trafficator will attempt to turn with the wheel. This causes undue stress
at the base of the slot in the stator tube, which will eventually cause the
stator tube to crack. It appears sufficient to screw the set screws in
until the end is flush with the outside of the hub. Although stator tubes
are available ($40) it's a messy job to replace them and should never be
necessary if it's not over-stressed.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ZManDino at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 15:16:57 EDT
Subject: Re: healeys@autox.team.net and Tahoe
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 12:46:03 -0700
Subject: 100S For Sale ???
On Saturday morning while perusing the "Driving" section of my
local newspaper the following three line blurb appeared;
"CENTURY CITY, Ferrari Club of America International Meet.
Century Plaza Hotel and California Speedway. (818) xxx-xxxx"
I had my day planned for yard and Healey work.
I called the number, OGM referred me to web site, went to web site.
The web site schedule of events listed "California Speedway Track Event"
Friday, Sat, Sun, I decided to bag the planned work.
(Found out later Ferrari had rented the entire track (Oval and Infield)
for three days with crash crews, ambulances, timing, pa, wreckers, etc.)
Big Big $$$$$$$
.
The web site also stated this International Meet was honoring the 1950's
era of Ferrari. Having life long memories of Daytona while in the Air Force
stationed a McCoy AFB Orlando, Fla in the late 50's early 60's
Took shower, warmed up 59/60 BN7 #405 Nasty Boy (302Ford)
and drove to track, (20 miles).
Track gate was open one car width, female guard waved me (Ferrari ??)
through.
Drove to infield pit (gasoline alley) entrance (noone there) observed
ungodly numbers
of Ferraries, while making MY tour in Nasty Boy. A few "I like your Healey".
(Garage spaces renting @ $300.00/day, most occupied, 30 maybe 40 eighteen
wheel haulers, etc etc) Stopped at the Union 76 racing fuel pumps for a
little 110
and was informed, "only for track cars" NUTS, oh well, I tried.
Then the dude on the golf cart caught me.
"Please park outside the fence, I like your uh uh car uh Healey".
"This is a Ferrari event only but you are welcome on foot."
Nice dude,
Nasty Boy was the ONLY non Ferrari there except for the BJ9's.
HOT LAPS, HOT LAPS, HOT LAPS, and MORE HOT LAPS.
FORMULA -1 HOT LAPS 200 mph + (ear splitting, empty grandstand echoes)
V-12 HOT LAPS 160-180 mph (oh that note)
(MUCH MUCH MORE TO BE TOLD, BUT HERE IS THE SUBJECT)
THE REST OF THE STORY
I had parked Nasty Boy conspicuously next to the pedestrian gate for all to
see.
Later on, while at the car getting more film, a most non descript (40ish)
gentleman (wearing a rumpled well worn Ferrari t-shirt) approached and
showed interest in the car. We had a very interesting ( knowledgeable)
extended conversation about Nasty Boy and Healeys in general.
Making the comment, he thought I had done a very nice modification.
(I said, coming from a Ferrari guy, I was flattered for the comment and
attention he was paying to the car.)
He (Ferrari guy) then said, yes, "Ferrari's are my business", but Healey's
are my first love and that Ferrari's allow me to afford and own Healey's.
It turns out the Ferrari guy (business card) is President of Ferrari &
Maserati
of Orange County California and is looking for a 100-S to purchase so
that he can "give his father a ride in a Mille Miglia"
(Knowing there are others (non Italian) called Mille Miglia's and not
wanting
to sound or appear uninformed, I didn't ask.)
BOTTOM LINE
I told him about a recent posting on this list offering a 100S for sale or
lease
for the season at $25k ?? (foolish) I am unable to locate that message.
I know there are 100S (lurkers) owners (Ken F) on this list.
If any of you know or have suspicion of a 100S for sale please let me
know so I can forward the info.
Hopefully we can satisfy the Ferrari guy's desire to give his father the
ride
of a lifetime.
Kirk Kvam
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 16:21:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: 100S For Sale ???
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 14:26:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
Subject: 100S & 100M For Sale or Lease
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
I just got my latest issue of Vintage Motorsport and was flipping
through it and noticed the following ad:
1955 Austin-Healey 100S. Lobelia blue over white. Restoration finished
2001. Full race-prepared engine, Carillo rods, steel crank. Will sell
for $125,000 obo, or lease for season for $25,000 obo. Can provide
team support and transportation at cost. Mary Ellen Ford, (434)
923-8389. E-mail meford464@aol.com
There was also an ad for a 1956 black over red factory Austin Healey
100M. The ad indicates that it is the 1956 New York Motor Show car and
that it has undergone a fresh restoration. Asking price is $48,000 or
lease for season for $15,000. Source is same as above.
[Note: I believe all prices are US$]
Interesting!
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
--- 62BT7 <62BT7@prodigy.net> wrote: << ...the Ferrari guy (business
card) is President of Ferrari & Maserati of Orange County California
and is looking for a 100-S to purchase so that he can "give his father
a ride in a Mille Miglia" (Knowing there are others (non Italian)
called Mille Miglia's and not wanting to sound or appear uninformed, I
didn't ask.)
BOTTOM LINE I told him about a recent posting on this list offering a
100S for sale or lease for the season at $25k ?? (foolish) I am unable
to locate that message. I know there are 100S (lurkers) owners (Ken F)
on this list. If any of you know or have suspicion of a 100S for sale
please let me know so I can forward the info. Hopefully we can satisfy
the Ferrari guy's desire to give his father the ride of a lifetime.
--Kirk Kvam >>
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Find, Connect, Date! http://personals.yahoo.ca
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 18:16:46 EDT
Subject: (no subject)
Can you add the felt steady bushes for the rear brakes to Sally's order.
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From N0040 at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 20:48:56 EDT
Subject: Test Message
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 21:20:04 EDT
Subject: Trivia Home Game
I now have it online and you can play at home. Just go to <A
HREF="http://jamesfwerner.com/";>Jim Werner's
Healey Adventure Site</A> and follow the links.
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 18:47:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Trivia Home Game
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Jwhlyadv@aol.com wrote:
> A few months ago I created a Healey Trivia Contest
> for our Springthing event.
> I asked list members to send me questions and photos
> and boy did they send
> some tough ones! 32 questions to test your Healey
> knowledge.
>
> I now have it online and you can play at home. Just
> go to <A HREF="http://jamesfwerner.com/";>Jim
> Werner's
> Healey Adventure Site</A> and follow the links.
> Regards,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 18:59:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Favor to ask anyone RE: Tahoe Registration
As I don't get back to US often, I'll be spending the
night with my brother's family on Sunday prior to the
Tahoe events (in the Sac Foothills). The way I read
this is I won't be able to pick up my registration
materials on Sunday in Tahoe.
I will be meeting the healeys before 9:45 on Monday in
the parking lot before the Popular Choice show -
Can someone (preferably a 100 owner) pick up my
registration packet on Sunday and then pass it to me
Monday Morning before the drive to the show? I'll be
driving my healey blue 100. Please let me know if
someone can do this.
Thanks,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 19:03:26 -0700
Subject: Re: Owners manual in other language
John Snyder
----------
> From: Bruno Verstraete <bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Owners manual in other language
> Date: Monday, May 27, 2002 9:47 AM
>
> Hi Listers,
>
> Is any of you aware of the existence of owners manuals in another
language
> than English ?
> I was wondering if the car delivered in France for example would have an
> owners manual in French rather than in English.
> If so any place to by these local editions?
>
> Best regards,
>
> Bruno Verstraete
> AH BJ8 1966
> BN1 Coupe 54
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Claude Vaughn <dncvaughn at yahoo.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 19:25:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: BN2 Healey Angle Drive
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 19:37:42 -0700
Subject: Fw: THANKS-no LBC content
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 19:46:58 -0700
Subject: Furr-flex
Terry Blubaugh
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 22:47:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Trivia Home Game
He did recieve a nice award though.
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 22:50:10 -0400
Subject: Rough idle
rpm: 600
New points, plus, rotor, cap etc. timing spot on.
Decided to check carbs: sync. slightly out but not major. Checked mixture
on #1 and #4 with colortune ... could adjust #1 from yellow to blue-ish but
could not adjust #4 from yellow without the engine stopping (mixture
adjustments were done at 900-1000 rpm). I'm thinking that I have either a
worn needle/jet in the corresponding carb or maybe the needle is different
than the other carb. The idle is even rougher now (probably from trying to
weaken mixture for #4-6), but it pulls even more smoothly now. Is my
thinking on needle/jet right or should I look at anything else? Having
looked at the archives the only hint I got was to check #5 and #6 as not all
cylinders get the same mixture.
P.S. I was surprised that the Haynes manual didn't say much about
retightening the carb linkage as it seems that if you get this wrong, nicely
sync'ed carbs could easily be operated out of sync.
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 22:54:09 -0400
Subject: RE: Rough idle
rpm: 600
New points, plus, rotor, cap etc. timing spot on.
Decided to check carbs: sync. slightly out but not major. Checked mixture
on #1 and #4 with colortune ... could adjust #1 from yellow to blue-ish but
could not adjust #4 from yellow without the engine stopping (mixture
adjustments were done at 900-1000 rpm). I'm thinking that I have either a
worn needle/jet in the corresponding carb or maybe the needle is different
than the other carb. The idle is even rougher now (probably from trying to
weaken mixture for #4-6), but it pulls even more smoothly now. Is my
thinking on needle/jet right or should I look at anything else? Having
looked at the archives the only hint I got was to check #5 and #6 as not all
cylinders get the same mixture.
P.S. I was surprised that the Haynes manual didn't say much about
retightening the carb linkage as it seems that if you get this wrong, nicely
sync'ed carbs could easily be operated out of sync.
Andy
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 23:20:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Trivia Home Game
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 20:38:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: Rough idle
I assume you are talking about a six cylinder of some
kind.
At 600 RPM, my BJ8 idles like glass and it sits on 600
RPM like a stone.
All the adjustment, tuning, etc etc didn't make a big
difference until I finally replaced the throttle
shafts with new ones and re bushed my HD8s (I don't
know what kind of healey you have). Depending on what
healey you have, you can either re-bush the carb body,
bore it out and fit an oversized throttle shaft, or if
you have a BJ8 you can get the teflon bushes from
David Nock. This is the most important, and most
overlooked proceedure when rebuilding SU carbs.
Another thing which also helps smooth idling is to
make sure your distributor isn't worn out. If the
shaft is loose or you have a defective vacuum advance,
that may cause bad idling as well (if you tuned it
like you've described)
I'd suggest installing a pertronix electronic ignition
kit. They really make a difference in making even
firing on the cylinders (I can actually hear the
difference between the pertonix and points), and will
keep smooth firing even with a worn distributor shaft.
You should note that after I re shafted my HD8s & put
on the pertonix, I've never had to adjust the carb
idle settings or timing in over 20,000 miles, they're
still perfect.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Andy Phillips <AndyP@cylogix.com> wrote:
> Symptom: rough idle ... just how smooth should it
> be?
>
> rpm: 600
> New points, plus, rotor, cap etc. timing spot on.
>
> Decided to check carbs: sync. slightly out but not
> major. Checked mixture
> on #1 and #4 with colortune ... could adjust #1 from
> yellow to blue-ish but
> could not adjust #4 from yellow without the engine
> stopping (mixture
> adjustments were done at 900-1000 rpm). I'm thinking
> that I have either a
> worn needle/jet in the corresponding carb or maybe
> the needle is different
> than the other carb. The idle is even rougher now
> (probably from trying to
> weaken mixture for #4-6), but it pulls even more
> smoothly now. Is my
> thinking on needle/jet right or should I look at
> anything else? Having
> looked at the archives the only hint I got was to
> check #5 and #6 as not all
> cylinders get the same mixture.
>
> P.S. I was surprised that the Haynes manual didn't
> say much about
> retightening the carb linkage as it seems that if
> you get this wrong, nicely
> sync'ed carbs could easily be operated out of sync.
>
> Andy
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From DRKTYME at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 23:43:16 EDT
Subject: Re: 100S For Sale ???
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 20:55:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 100S For Sale ???
If your guy is interested, I think Jackie Cooper's
100S is currently for sale somewhere in the UK. Ken
Freese might have the details: Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- 62BT7 <62BT7@prodigy.net> wrote:
> This past weekend, I had what will be one of the
> more memorable
> experiences of my lifetime.
>
> On Saturday morning while perusing the "Driving"
> section of my
> local newspaper the following three line blurb
> appeared;
>
> "CENTURY CITY, Ferrari Club of America International
> Meet.
> Century Plaza Hotel and California Speedway. (818)
> xxx-xxxx"
>
> I had my day planned for yard and Healey work.
> I called the number, OGM referred me to web site,
> went to web site.
>
> The web site schedule of events listed "California
> Speedway Track Event"
> Friday, Sat, Sun, I decided to bag the planned work.
>
> (Found out later Ferrari had rented the entire track
> (Oval and Infield)
> for three days with crash crews, ambulances, timing,
> pa, wreckers, etc.)
> Big Big $$$$$$$
> .
> The web site also stated this International Meet was
> honoring the 1950's
> era of Ferrari. Having life long memories of Daytona
> while in the Air Force
> stationed a McCoy AFB Orlando, Fla in the late 50's
> early 60's
>
> Took shower, warmed up 59/60 BN7 #405 Nasty Boy
> (302Ford)
> and drove to track, (20 miles).
>
> Track gate was open one car width, female guard
> waved me (Ferrari ??)
> through.
>
> Drove to infield pit (gasoline alley) entrance
> (noone there) observed
> ungodly numbers
> of Ferraries, while making MY tour in Nasty Boy. A
> few "I like your Healey".
> (Garage spaces renting @ $300.00/day, most occupied,
> 30 maybe 40 eighteen
> wheel haulers, etc etc) Stopped at the Union 76
> racing fuel pumps for a
> little 110
> and was informed, "only for track cars" NUTS, oh
> well, I tried.
>
> Then the dude on the golf cart caught me.
> "Please park outside the fence, I like your uh uh
> car uh Healey".
> "This is a Ferrari event only but you are welcome on
> foot."
> Nice dude,
>
> Nasty Boy was the ONLY non Ferrari there except for
> the BJ9's.
>
> HOT LAPS, HOT LAPS, HOT LAPS, and MORE HOT LAPS.
>
> FORMULA -1 HOT LAPS 200 mph + (ear splitting, empty
> grandstand echoes)
>
> V-12 HOT LAPS 160-180 mph (oh that note)
>
> (MUCH MUCH MORE TO BE TOLD, BUT HERE IS THE SUBJECT)
>
> THE
> REST OF THE STORY
> I had parked Nasty Boy conspicuously next to the
> pedestrian gate for all to
> see.
>
> Later on, while at the car getting more film, a
> most non descript (40ish)
> gentleman (wearing a rumpled well worn Ferrari
> t-shirt) approached and
> showed interest in the car. We had a very
> interesting ( knowledgeable)
> extended conversation about Nasty Boy and Healeys
> in general.
> Making the comment, he thought I had done a very
> nice modification.
> (I said, coming from a Ferrari guy, I was flattered
> for the comment and
> attention he was paying to the car.)
>
> He (Ferrari guy) then said, yes, "Ferrari's are my
> business", but Healey's
> are my first love and that Ferrari's allow me to
> afford and own Healey's.
>
> It turns out the Ferrari guy (business card) is
> President of Ferrari &
> Maserati
> of Orange County California and is looking for a
> 100-S to purchase so
> that he can "give his father a ride in a Mille
> Miglia"
>
> (Knowing there are others (non Italian) called Mille
> Miglia's and not
> wanting
> to sound or appear uninformed, I didn't ask.)
>
>
> BOTTOM LINE
>
> I told him about a recent posting on this list
> offering a 100S for sale or
> lease
> for the season at $25k ?? (foolish) I am unable to
> locate that message.
>
> I know there are 100S (lurkers) owners (Ken F) on
> this list.
>
> If any of you know or have suspicion of a 100S for
> sale please let me
> know so I can forward the info.
>
> Hopefully we can satisfy the Ferrari guy's desire to
> give his father the
> ride
> of a lifetime.
>
> Kirk Kvam
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ira Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 21:00:02 -0700
Subject: e brake problem redux
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ira Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 21:17:17 -0700
Subject: Fred cohen
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Barbara C Wojcik" <bcwojcik at ties.k12.mn.us>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 23:17:23 -0500
Subject: Tail lamp rings
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete at catey.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 09:05:27 +0200
Subject: 100S Jackie Cooper
Indeed Jackie Coopers 100S was for sale (the only one which was not in the
traditional OEW-labolia blue colours.)
Yes, indeedwas for sale.
If interested you can still look at the pictures at the following site :
http://www.gregorfisken.com/
Nice other goodies for sale as well
Happy dreaming
Bruno Verstraete
BJ8 1966
BN1 Coupe 1954
bruno.verstraete@catey.com <mailto:bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
www.catey.com <http://www.catey.com/>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 09:30:11 +0100
Subject: Re: Block Expansion Plug Replacement
What Steve says is good advice but there are a couple of points to add:
1. Rubber plugs may be OK for plugging holes in inlet manifolds etc but not for
coolant passages - they will be forced out eventually even with the relatively
low 7psi pressure of a standard radiator cap.
2. Removal of the transmission cover assembly from inside the car will allow
you to replace all of the plugs in the rear of the block. The trick with the
rearmost plug on the driver's side (left hand drive) is to drill a hole through
the inner footwell so that you can use a suitable diameter bar to strike the
end of the socket and thus expand the plug.
Tedious but ultimately very rewarding!
Regards
Paul
Longbridge BN4
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 11:20:29 -0700
From: Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com>
Subject: Re: Block Expansion Plug Replacement
Hello Dak,
I went through this a few months ago.
You'll need to remove carbs, intake and exhaust manifolds. I used a
combination of cold chisel and large screwdrivers to poke through and lever
them out of the block. Be careful not to damage the hole walls. They have
brass replacement plugs at NAPA, I believe--they weren't easy to find. Seal
the plugs with drying Permatex--Type A if I recall. Was unable to do those
on the back of the engine. Last plug on the bottom in the rear--got it out,
but had to replace it with a rubber plug as I was unable to hammer a new one
in. Used a large socket wrench to hammer them in.
Harbor Freight's catalog/website has a freeze plug remover/installer and I
was not able to tell from them whether it'll fit Healey plugs or even how it
works. Calling their customer service at the catalog was useless. It may be
a possibility.
As far as I know in order to replace the ones between the engine and
firewall, you'll have to pull the engine.
When you've got the plugs out of the side of the engine, you can back flush
the engine and reach in between the cylinders with a piece of wire, your
fingers, etc. to remove all the built-up rust flakes and muck in the bottom
of the block. This is a good side benefit.
I made a back flusher out of a combination of the shortest radiator hose I
could buy of the right diameter (it's about 3" long), a hose clamp, a
threaded pvc pipe nipple and a garden hose shutoff. This clamps up to the
water pump outlet. The shutoff allows you to keep the hose pressurized and
turn it on and off as needed.
Good luck
- --
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 07:34:30 -0400
Subject: looking for
Fred
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From J & L Armour <sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 09:47:30 +1000
Subject: Close ratio gears
'Tulip' is more accurately described as a 'wide' ratio set as the
spacing was set to allow for an effective ratio between 2nd and 3rd by
using o/d. 2nd and the same between 3rd and 4th and then 4th o/d [ M.G.
and/or B.M.C. Competitions Dept. for rallying. ]
'Sebring' [ the Factory-- Donald Healey Motor Co. for circuit racing ]
o/drive was not used. 1st is very high and a big step to 2nd [
depending on tyre dia. but I have pulled approx. 80 mph at a 1/4 mile
sprint before changing up, about 6000rpm.] there is space for an
effective 2nd o/d. 3rd and 4th are very close together so that if used
3o/d is the same as 4th. With a slow and casual gear change and allowing
a small drop off in revs. you almost think the change did not happen.
4th o/d is a bonus.
The absolute beauty of the Sebring set is, you can drive everywhere in
3rd while listening to the glorious sound of a straight cut gear set
without having to change into 4th/direct top and therefore stop the
music
For those interested in straight cut gearsets of all kinds I recommend
the book with C.D. " INTO THE RED" a description of approx. 20 of Nick
Mason's collection and accompanying test drive at Goodwood circuit. Nick
knows all about sound and music as the drummer for 'PINK FLOYD'
Regards Joe
mustard one
blue one
red one
odd names and I have almost forgotten why!
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 08:21:07 EDT
Subject: Re: Trivia Home Game
Congratulations to Patrick!
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of
pq2.PDF]
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From DMMax at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 09:04:39 EDT
Subject: "Tail lamps Cling: Fabulous Results"
Securing those lamp lens: "Those darned things."
The rare verbal assault on Mrs. Peel (Black over Red: Isn't it obvious why
that's her name ?) has, more often than not, centered on this dryly
humorous bit of British revenge for The Revolution.
This year I've found a / the technique to free me from this Python-esq
drudgery: Use your favorite 'rubber cleaner' and q-tips to clean out the
rubber 'boot'. Then use your favorite rubber preservative to feed and
revitalize those babies. With a bit of luck those darned rings will just pop
in and sit rather comfortably. The revitalized rubber gets supple and seems
to swell to hold chrome rings. All the times I've used tools to stretch the
rubber lip, they've wanted to sneak back. Not now. Newer boots probably don't
hurt.
I can't remember if I heard this tip on this list or at one of our Northeast
Region AHCA tire kickin, beer drinkin Healey swareez. Or perhaps it came to
me as a combination of the two.
As for the playful revenge from you Brits, ..... well we did send you Madonna
and Roseanne.
Cheers, David Maxwell / the tight lamped Mrs. Peel
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Fred Crowley <fredcrowley at teamhealeytexas.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 08:56:40 -0500
Subject: Re: close ratio gears
Sebring Tulip
1st 2.413 2.64
2nd 1.722 1.88
3rd 1.255 1.43
4th 1.000 1.000
Regards Fred
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
fredcrowley.vcf]
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 15:16:30 +0000
Subject: Re: 100S Jackie Cooper
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Fred Hunter <fhunter at kcnet.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 10:34:45 -0500
Subject: Re: 100S Jackie Cooper
Bruno:
Correction: FIVE of the 'production' 100/S's were finished in colors
other than the traditional white/blue:
AHS-3501: the Briggs Cunningham car--all white, w/ center wide blue
stripe
AHS-3503: Red
AHS-3504: the Jackie Cooper car--British Racing Green
AHS-3601: Black
AHS-3804: Red
The first 3 Special Test cars (the NOJ cars) were Ice Green Metallic;
the second three (the OON cars) were white/blue, white/blue, and red.
And it's my understanding that TWO of the above list will be in
attendance at the Tahoe show, along with 3 other 100/S's!
Best regards,
Fred Hunter
SPL-224B/AHS-3804
Car in ditch
Driver in tree
Moon was full
And so
Was he
--Burma-Shave--
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Bill Wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 12:50:13 -0400
Subject: AHS 3504 Jackie Cooper
Car sold, I believe, to Chicago.
Bill Wood
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at btopenworld.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 18:00:43 +0100
Subject: Radio interference question
I seldom, if ever, use it as (a) it's barely audible over the
engine, (b) there's little worth listening to on it anyhow.
But, the other day, my 12 yr old insisted. We were driving
through Exeter at the time and I immediately noticed how the
indicators and brake lights caused fairly massive interference.
Now, I know little about radios and suppression. Everything,
particularly the radio and antenna, needs to be well earthed??
And then what? Where would I look/what would I do to cure this?
I'll not start listening to it overnight, but it irritates me to
know that there's a (probably) quite simple problem and that it's
beyond my current competence to fix it.
Any ideas?
Simon Lachlan.
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon
EX5 4NN.
U.K.
01392-882248
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 10:19:57 -0700
Subject: Re: Block Expansion Plug Replacement
>
> 2. Removal of the transmission cover assembly from inside the car will allow
> you to replace all of the plugs in the rear of the block.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "AH Roadster" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 12:25:20 -0500
Subject: Fw: FYI - Forbes article
Enjoy,
Carlos Cruz
BRITISH CARS WE WISH THEY STILL MADE
5.27.02, 12:01 AM ET - Michael Frank
>From the E-Type to the MGB, seven beauties that could
once again have drivers humming "Rule Britannia."
http://tm0.com/forbes/sbct.cgi?s=224453395&i=529578&m=1&d=2707600
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 13:27:00 -0400
Subject: Radio info
If you run wire leads back to the battery (unnecessary in my opinion, when
you can pick up the -12-V at the fuse block), you should place fuses in both
positive (ground) and negative leads, and place them close to the battery
or, for that matter, whatever source point you select for grabbing the
radio's power. If you place the fuses at the radio, you run the risk of
unprotected feed wires; should a short develop in the wires, you may be in
for a smoky surprise.
Also, be sure to run your wiring through rubber grommets where it may pass
through the firewall, sharp edges, etc.
On a similar electrical subject, I also added two Hella 200,000 candlepower
pencil-beam driving lights to my Healey, but used a large Motorola
single-pole, single-throw (SPST) relay in the installation. It was firmly
bolted down. These relays are obtainable from a friendly Motorola 2-way
service shop technician. You may also find a nice one at an electronics
supply vendor, or from a friendly ham radio operator.
The relay was wired to feed 12-V from the 12-V source, through its heavy
contacts, to the lamps. The relay's energizing coil was wired to a SPST
toggle switch mounted on a small plate hanging from the fascia. The switch
only had to handle the very light relay current, and would last forever and
won't overheat, as it might if it had to carry the many amperes that the
lamps demanded from the 12-V line.
The switch was wired to the high-beam dipping circuit. That way, when the
switch was placed to ON, the relay would only engage when the high beams
were selected by the footswitch. Both high beams and driving lights would
be, for a retinal scorching lighting scheme.
The advantage is that you can dip the lights as you normally would when
encountering an oncoming car. If you didn't want driving lights, you could
leave the switch off, and dip or raise the beams normally. It was very
effective.
Use great care when installing anything electrical on your vehicle. The
battery is capable of providing near-infinite current, and can rapidly (a
matter of seconds) burn up the insulation on wires.
Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 13:31:17 -0400
Subject: Advance springs
Could somebody please tell me, when you manually turn the rotor arm, should
it spring back all the way or would you still be able to move it back
further. My rotor arm has a little movement before the advance springs
engage and I just want to know if this is normal.
My car is a 1967 BJ8.
Thanks for your help.
Andy
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 10:48:15 -0700
Subject: Re: Radio interference question
bk
---------
At 10:00 AM 5/28/2002, you wrote:
>I have an old Radiomobile radio in my Positive Earth MkII
>BT7......
>
>I seldom, if ever, use it as (a) it's barely audible over the
>engine, (b) there's little worth listening to on it anyhow.
>
>But, the other day, my 12 yr old insisted. We were driving
>through Exeter at the time and I immediately noticed how the
>indicators and brake lights caused fairly massive interference.
>
>Now, I know little about radios and suppression. Everything,
>particularly the radio and antenna, needs to be well earthed??
>And then what? Where would I look/what would I do to cure this?
>I'll not start listening to it overnight, but it irritates me to
>know that there's a (probably) quite simple problem and that it's
>beyond my current competence to fix it.
>
>Any ideas?
>
>Simon Lachlan.
>Comfort House
>Bradninch
>Devon
>EX5 4NN.
>U.K.
>01392-882248
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 13:57:18 -0400
Subject: Distributor advance springs
Could somebody please tell me, when you manually turn the rotor arm, should
it spring back all the way or would you still be able to move it back
further. My rotor arm has a little movement before the advance springs
engage and I just want to know if this is normal.
My car is a 1967 BJ8.
Thanks for your help.
Andy
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 19:24:51 +0100
Subject: Re: Radio interference question
Simon,
You may have done this already, but...
if you pull off the tuning knob, and look carefully, you will see beside
the spindle a small slot with a slotted screw in it. This is the aerial
trimmer (a variable capacitor) and is used to match your aerial to the
input circuit. Try turning this with a small screwdriver (preferably
with a plastic blade - home-made?) to optimise your signal. Turn it
clockwise first and it will eventually reach the end of its travel, then
back it off from there. Too far anti-clockwise and the screw might drop
out, but it will turn several revolutions without problem.
The effect is not perfect over the band, and will be different for long
wave, so find a compromise or optimise it for your favourite programme.
This can make a dramatic difference. Hope this helps.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 11:49:06 -0700
Subject: shipping to Tahoe
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 14:58:56 -0400
Subject: RE: Radio interference question
The noises from brake light and indicator wiring are actually popping
noises. These pops or crackles can occur each time a 12-V circuit makes
and/or breaks current flow. Each time a switch opens (and to some lesser
degree when it "makes" or closes), there's actually a tiny arc that occurs
inside the switch at its copper contacts. The arc emits a radio wave, just
like an old-time spark gap transmitter from early days of wireless in the
1920s.
The car's wiring acts as a local antenna to transmit the energy to your
radio's pickup antenna. AM radios easily pick up this wideband energy. FM
radios are more resistant to it because noise is inherently amplitude
modulated, and because FM radios operate at VHF, which is far removed from
the spectrum where the noise is generated. AM radios receive on a band
that's much lower in radio frequency, and much closer to the frequency
generated by the arcing.
You can try placing a 0.1 uF (microfarad) capacitor (a 500-V or higher disk
ceramic type should be applicable), across the offending switch or contact.
That may help. You can also try placing the same value capacitor (condenser)
from the "hot" side to of the offending switch to chassis ground. These
capacitors are not polarity sensitive.
Other than that, there isn't too much you can easily do without breaking the
circuit and installing more filtering in series. Because these noises only
occur infrequently, as opposed to generator whine or ignition noise, most
people don't worry about it. In fact, on my other car (a 1994 SAAB), I use
the pops as a diagnostic tool to ensure that my brake lights are working!
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Bill Katz
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 1:48 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Radio interference question
There are usually two main sources of radio static you'll hear. One is from
the plugs, and the other is the generator. The plug noise can be reduced
using resistor plugs or resistor wires. The generator noise is usually
handled with a capacitor and/or choke-like device (not to be confused with
an engine choke). Generator noise is a higher pitched whine, plug noise is
more tick-tick. Both will vary with engine RPM.
bk
---------
At 10:00 AM 5/28/2002, you wrote:
>I have an old Radiomobile radio in my Positive Earth MkII
>BT7......
>
>I seldom, if ever, use it as (a) it's barely audible over the
>engine, (b) there's little worth listening to on it anyhow.
>
>But, the other day, my 12 yr old insisted. We were driving
>through Exeter at the time and I immediately noticed how the
>indicators and brake lights caused fairly massive interference.
>
>Now, I know little about radios and suppression. Everything,
>particularly the radio and antenna, needs to be well earthed??
>And then what? Where would I look/what would I do to cure this?
>I'll not start listening to it overnight, but it irritates me to
>know that there's a (probably) quite simple problem and that it's
>beyond my current competence to fix it.
>
>Any ideas?
>
>Simon Lachlan.
>Comfort House
>Bradninch
>Devon
>EX5 4NN.
>U.K.
>01392-882248
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ZManDino at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 15:53:55 EDT
Subject: For the Healey racers
Subj: Fwd: Fw: Save Hoosier for the Feds
FYI,
Please forward to as many racer contacts as possible....and please submit
your comments to NHTSA.
Regards,
Myles H. Kitchen
-----------------
Forwarded Message:
Subj: Fwd: Fw: Save Hoosier for the Feds
Date: Friday, May 24, 2002 8:34:23 PM
From: tony@tonydrews.com
To: vintage-race@autox.team.net
From: tony@tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Sender: owner-vintage-race@autox.team.net
Reply-to: tony@tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
To: vintage-race@autox.team.net
From another autox.team.net list. Looks legit.
- Tony Drews
>Please go to the following site. The Feds are looking to implement new tire
>safety regs that could prevent Hoosier from continuing to make and supply
>racing and autocross tires. So if you want continued available of Hoosier
>track tires please follow the directions on this site and submit your
comments
>to DOT via the link they provide. Even
>if you don't use Hoosiers, the Feds muck around too much in everyone's
>business...
>
>http://www.hoosiertire.com/fmvsshlp.HTM
>
>Spread this around fast, we only have till June 5 to submit comments
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ted Schroeder" <Tedseven at torchlake.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 16:02:29 -0400
Subject: Fuel guage
Any help will be appreciated. Thanks,
Ted
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 15:05:28 -0500
Subject: Forbes Article and Poll
Don
BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 15:18:01 -0500
Subject: Re: shipping to Tahoe
From the corn fields of Indiana, ML
> Listers:
> We still have room for one more car in our truck load from So Cal to
> Tahoe.
> any takers.
> Ron Rader
> Marina del Rey
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 13:20:41 -0700
Subject: Re: shipping to Tahoe
Mark and kathy LaPierre wrote:
> Do you mean to tell me that some people actually chose to drive there
> Healeys up the California coast instead of watching them ride on an 18
> wheeler, Go Figure.
> I'd hate to be the guy who has to pick up the tab for that empty space.
>
> From the corn fields of Indiana, ML
>
> > Listers:
> > We still have room for one more car in our truck load from So Cal to
> > Tahoe.
> > any takers.
> > Ron Rader
> > Marina del Rey
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 14:58:10 -0600
Subject: A40 engine
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 14:02:30 -0700
Subject: Re: shipping to Tahoe
A person could drive up US 101 along (more or less) the coast to San
Francisco and turn right. That would add a couple of hundred extra
miles but might fit in with some people's plans.
We will be driving our BJ7, probably up 395. Alas, the '53 BN1 isn't
ready.
-Roland
San Diego
On Tue, 28 May 2002 15:18:01 -0500, "Mark and kathy LaPierre"
<mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net> wrote:
:: Do you mean to tell me that some people actually chose to drive there
:: Healeys up the California coast instead of watching them ride on an 18
:: wheeler, Go Figure.
:: I'd hate to be the guy who has to pick up the tab for that empty space.
::
:: From the corn fields of Indiana, ML
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 17:10:27 -0400
Subject: RE: Fuel guage
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ted Schroeder
Sent: 28-May-02 4:02 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Fuel guage
When I picked up my 'new' BN1 the fuel tank was nearly empty. The guage
told
me so. I filled the tank - the guage read full - and it has read full
ever
since. I've asked about this before but the only suggestion I've
received is
to rap the guage with a knuckle. That didn't work for me. I diconnected
the
single wire at the tank and it still reads full. It does read empty with
the
ignition off.
Any help will be appreciated. Thanks,
Ted
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 14:24:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Fuel guage
Coop
'66 BJ8......... always on "empty"
> When I picked up my 'new' BN1 the fuel tank was nearly empty. The guage
told
> me so. I filled the tank - the guage read full - and it has read full ever
> since. I've asked about this before but the only suggestion I've received
is
> to rap the guage with a knuckle. That didn't work for me. I diconnected
the
> single wire at the tank and it still reads full. It does read empty with
the
> ignition off.
>
> Any help will be appreciated. Thanks,
>
> Ted
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 14:52:12 -0700
Subject: Re: shipping to Tahoe
Roland Wilhelmy wrote:
> Tahoe isn't on the coast. For those arriving from 500 miles to the
> south of Tahoe, the two most likely routes are up the central valley
> of California on I-5 or US 99 to US 50, or north over Cajon Pass on
> I-15 and following US 395 north to US 50. We drove both routes this
> past week, not in a Healey, as a scouting trip. The weather was kind
> to us with 92 being the trip high temp, but we have another month to
> go before Open Roads begins. Both routes can involve 100+
> temperatures for hours at a time, and I don't blame those who don't
> want to put themselves or their cars through it. Tahoe and the
> Eastern Sierra area seen from US 395 are beautiful.
> The central valley can be nice in the spring with green grass, flowers
> and the orchards in bloom. This time of year it's a pretty tough
> grind.
>
> A person could drive up US 101 along (more or less) the coast to San
> Francisco and turn right. That would add a couple of hundred extra
> miles but might fit in with some people's plans.
>
> We will be driving our BJ7, probably up 395. Alas, the '53 BN1 isn't
> ready.
>
> -Roland
> San Diego
>
> On Tue, 28 May 2002 15:18:01 -0500, "Mark and kathy LaPierre"
> <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net> wrote:
>
> :: Do you mean to tell me that some people actually chose to drive there
> :: Healeys up the California coast instead of watching them ride on an 18
> :: wheeler, Go Figure.
> :: I'd hate to be the guy who has to pick up the tab for that empty space.
> ::
> :: From the corn fields of Indiana, ML
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Heard" <heard at datatrontech.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 18:11:02 -0400
Subject: As the rotor turns.
Thanks,
Heard Saxon
60 BT7 still in many pieces
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John" <john4 at attbi.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 15:06:29 -0700
Subject: Doug Auberg
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Jim Hill" <jrhill at chorus.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 17:44:01 -0500
Subject: 100S For Sale
But if you're a bit crafty, you'll find that the original web pages are
still there (just not accessible by links). Try:
http://www.gregorfisken.com/sales/gf1046.asp
The website doesn't claim that Jackie Cooper car was the only one not
painted in the standard/traditional 100S colors--the claim is that it was
the only one painted in "spruce green".
What a wonderful car!
Jim Hill
Madison WI
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 19:41:13 EDT
Subject: Need shop recommendation
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 09:49:09 +1000
Subject: RE: Trivia Home Game
-----Original Message-----
From: Jwhlyadv@aol.com [mailto:Jwhlyadv@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 10:21 PM
To: Quinn, Patrick; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Trivia Home Game
Patrick Quinn is our leader with 28 out of 32 questions correct. Patrick wins
the coveted "Grandmaster of Healey Trivia" Award. A certificate is attached,
suitable for framing and a place of honor among his Healey memorabilia.
Congratulations to Patrick!
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 19:38:49 -0500
Subject: condition questions about 3 100-4s for sale
All 3 100-4s are very early BN1's.
One car is originally a Spruce Green car, a very nice rare color. It's early
enough to have an alloy bonnet, an "Austin of England" trunk insignia, and
the plastic (maybe bakelite?) tags in the interior footwell.
It was driven to a local body shop for some work and paint, and during that
time the owner passed away (hey, some restorations take a lifetime...). The
car sat in the shed of the body shop, for a couple of years, and I purchased
it from the widow 12-14 years ago. It's had some rust repair done (in steel)
but overall was a very solid car to start with. Fenders are unattached, but
all drivetrain is still in place. Frame is very good on this car.
I've never attempted to start the car. "Supposedly" the owner was an old
mechanic, and had rebuilt the engine and front end, but I have no proof of
that. I took it and all of it's parts, and tucked it away in my gargage many
years ago with the intention of doing a concours street restoration on it.
There is title for this car.
The second car is interesting as well... it is one of only 2 orginal
non-metallic Healey blue cars. Again a very early car. The color is present
under the cockpit surrounds, well preserved. It's a blueish gray color. I've
only seen one other that color in almost 30 years of Healey ownership. This
car is rust free, found in a barn nearly 20 years ago. Frame is excellent.
(It was found with all sorts of other automotive treasures... a TD, a TR3, a
Willys coupe, an early Pontiac 3 duece manifold & carbs, and all sorts of
other cool shit.)
Sometime, probably still back in the 50's, someone started to make a "Nasty
Boy" V8 conversion, as there are '55 Chevy engine mounts in place (only one
year for that style of mount, I think). Some of the foot wall area, and
portions of the front cowl were cut. This body has some dents and wear from
being walked around (or on) for many years, but, as I said, it's not rusty.
No interior. It rolls (has a BN2 rear end under it). There is no title for
this car. It was our intention to make either an Austin powered vintage race
car, or a modified 283 powered vintage racer.
Number three is a completely rotted, but fairly complete parts car (again
early) BN1. It has complete original drive train, and also I have some other
spares with it. The frame is (very) shot on this car. It was originally red,
and has a title.
I'll have digital pictures available soon, and will entertain offers before
it all ends up on Ebay.
WST
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson@thicko.com>
To: <spridgets@autox.team.net>; <team-thicko@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 4:11 PM
Subject: ironic-home improvement-auction block
> Hah!
>
> Just got my long needed new asphalt driveway put in...150' long, 3 + cars
> wide at the front, expanding to 6+ wide with a slot alongside the garage
to
> stash the (soon to be sold) motorhome.
>
> I made sure my 1959 Healey 100-6 that I've owned since high school (1974)
> was the first car to drive on and be washed on the new pavement..
>
> Now... seeing as I own at least a dozen (please don't make me count)
> British cars, you'd think one of them would be the first to christen the
new
> surface with an oil leak.
>
> Nu uh... that honor goes to my 1970 FJ40 LandCruiser. I hadn't driven it
in
> 3 years, started it up... letting it idle... when a puddle of oil starts
> spreading underneath it. "Son of a bitch.. you motherf****".
>
> The Napa oil filter had rusted out. How does that happen?
>
> Amazing.
>
> Anyway...part of the "Casa del Flounder" home improvement project
includes,
> new roof, new deck (Frank???) and some other smaller projects.
>
> Financing some if this is my "Vehicle Liquidation Program". I used to
have
> storage for a bunch of additional project cars at a barn, but that
property
> was sold to the Forest Preserve. Also, divorce, etc. causes a realignment
of
> priorities, future plans, and of course... finances. So, whereas my old
plan
> was to buy future projects when I could find them, and get to them in my
old
> age... my new theory is other than race cars, everything's a driver, and
> only one (or two) project cars waiting in the wings.
>
> So (he said, long windedly..) soon to be sold include...
>
> 3 Healey BN1 100-4s
> 1968 Volvo 1800S
> 1967 Volvo 122 wagon
> 1963 VW Karman Ghia coupe
> 1963 VW Type III Notchback sunroof
> 1970 GMC 3/4 ton pick up Custom Camper (with 1 ton rear axle)
> 1984 Winnebago 26' motorhome
>
> Digital photos will be available soon, and unless folks speak up, they'll
> all go to E-Bay.
>
> WST
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 20:47:51 -0400
Subject: RE: As the rotor turns.
It is usually easiest and more accurate to turn the rotors whilst on the
hub. With the correct equipment you can actually use the bearing cups to
centre the hub.
Minimum thickness for your discs is 0.325"
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Heard
Sent: 28-May-02 6:11 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: As the rotor turns.
Hello Everyone,
I got tired of doing body work on my BT7 and decided to take a break and
do
some mechanical work instead. While rebuilding the front suspension, I
got
to wondering about turning the rotors. It seems that someone on the
list
has stated that any decent brake shop can turn these rotors. Assuming
this
is true, should I take these to the shop mounted or unmounted to the
hub?
Anything else I need to know about this?
Thanks,
Heard Saxon
60 BT7 still in many pieces
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From JSoderling at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 20:57:00 EDT
Subject: "Holy Smoly"
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 18:34:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Trivia Home Game
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Jwhlyadv@aol.com wrote:
> Patrick Quinn is our leader with 28 out of 32
> questions correct. Patrick wins
> the coveted "Grandmaster of Healey Trivia" Award. A
> certificate is attached,
> suitable for framing and a place of honor among his
> Healey memorabilia.
>
> Congratulations to Patrick!
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "AH Roadster" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 20:53:51 -0500
Subject: Open Roads 2002 Tahoe Registration For Sale
Please forgive this shameless self promotion. Please delete if this if it
offends and accept my apology in advance...
The planets have failed to align in my horoscope and created some personal
circumstances forcing the cancellation of my trip to Tahoe for Open Roads
2002. My misfortune can be your gain. I am forced to sell my registration.
This is a great opportunity for anyone wanting to take their Healey and was
unable to register before the cutoff earlier this month. The registration
includes participation in the following:
* Popularity * RC Car Races
* Funkhana * Autocross & 1/4 mile run
* Self Guided Tours * Observation Rally
* Blackjack tournament
The registration fee paid includes:
* Registration Fee $ 89.00
* Autocross & 1/4 mile $ 15.00 (one driver)
* Tues. Event Banquet $ 56.00 (dinner for two)
* Thurs.Wrap-up Awards $ 80.00 (dinner for two)
I will be happy to answer any questions you may have. I have been in touch
with the Tahoe committee and they will only transfer my registration to my
designee - so this is on the up & up. Please contact me off list with any
questions or offers. Best offer by 5:00 PM CST Friday May 31 takes it.
Now I have to break the bad news to my Mistress resting in the garage.
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
'60 Sadly Disappointed BN7 :-(
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 21:48:12 -0700
Subject: Re: "Holy Smoly"
I think you'll find the more appropriate question is "if" rather than "when".
>From what I'm hearing, this is not a "go" project yet.
Bob Denton
JSoderling@aol.com wrote:
> Had an interesting experience yesterday right out of that cool BMW ad as I
> was driving my Erika the Red down Danville Boulevard between Walnut Creek and
> Danville in support of British Car Week. As I pulled up to a stop at a
> traffic signal, a BMW Z8 pulled up along side of me. The driver looked over
> at my Healey and exclaimed "holy," to which I replied in admiration of his
> cool Z8, "smoly." We gave each other a "thumbs up" as we left the signal,
> with me eating his exhaust.
> The Z8 is a fantastic looking roadster and the closest contemporary car in
> the mold of the classic British roadster. Does anyone know when BMW is going
> to bring out the new Austin Healey roadster? I want one.
> Vrooom vrooom,
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from Helicopters. Because of this later work, I don't think there is
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 22:05:49 -0400
Subject: Research Request
John May
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 23:04:13 -0400
Subject: Re: As the rotor turns.
I took my rotors to the shop sans hub. Most shops try to turn these in a
hurry - time is money you know. I would recommend that you take them to
someone who is willing to take off minimal amount per pass, about .005 or
so. Otherwise you run the risk of gouging which can result in uneven
braking. A little more expensive than the Pep Boys job but a much smoother
finish. Also, I read somewhere that the minimum recommended thickness is
.375.
Keith Pennell
> Hello Everyone,
> I got tired of doing body work on my BT7 and decided to take a break and
do
> some mechanical work instead. While rebuilding the front suspension, I
got
> to wondering about turning the rotors. It seems that someone on the list
> has stated that any decent brake shop can turn these rotors. Assuming
this
> is true, should I take these to the shop mounted or unmounted to the hub?
> Anything else I need to know about this?
>
> Thanks,
> Heard Saxon
> 60 BT7 still in many pieces
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 21:17:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: 100S & Derrington Steering Wheels - clarification
I believe, in fact, that the 100S steering wheel was
actually a "Derrington-Style" wheel manufactured at
the Healey factory.
Derrington wheels originally have a 12-rivet laminated
wood rim, wherease those on the 100S are different.
You can actually see it clearly in this photograph:
http://www.gregorfisken.com/sales/gf1046.asp
Unlike a standard Derrington, the 100S wheel is 16"
and has six rivets and a solid piece of maple (I
believe) forming the steering wheel, not a laminate
like on a motolita. I understand that this wheel was
provided on the 100S in either drilled or slotted
spokes, although drilled was the most prevlent.
Another interesting note is the wheel is riveted to
the hub, not screwed as with a derrington (or moto
lita).
FYI I just purchased a faithful reproduction of this
wheel, just wondering if it should go on the BJ8 or on
the 100??
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ron Yates" <dipstickdigest at mohaveaz.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 23:11:18 -0600
Subject: Re: Research Request
My sources lists an Eddie Miller (b.1895) who was with Duesenberg in the
1920's. He was a mechanic and driver and finished 4th at Indy in 1921. No
mention of any overseas activities.
The Millers and Duesenbergs that ran at Indy during the 20's and 30's and
the Millers/Offys after WWII ran under the sanction of the AAA. USAC arrived
in the late 40's.
The only other Miller that I ran across was Capt. Alistir Miller (RAF) who
was with Wolsley and their racing program in the middle 1920's.
Alistir would probably have known DMH and vice-versa.
The Ford-Miller connection was Harry Miller designed heads for guys that
raced the early Fords. I'm not sure there was any real "Ford" involvement as
there was with the Cobra and GT-40's that were developed for the Le Mans
efforts in the mid-sixties.
My educated guess would be that if any of the volumes you listed do not
reference Eddie Miller, either in the foreground or background, it probably
didn't happen. Information was fresher when Browning/Needham put their book
together and the players were still available to interview.
You could always call Gerry Coker. He was in at the beginning of the
Austin-Healey (1950) and could give you as accurate an answer as anyone.
I have another source, but won't know anything for a few days.
Good luck on your quest.
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: "John May" <jdmay@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 8:05 PM
Subject: Research Request
> I have received a request from a researcher and biographer. The subject
> is Edward B. "Eddie" Miller, who is said to have had something to do
> with the early days or designs of the Austin Healey. There was some
> family connection with Ford and "Ford-Miller" racing in the 30's. He
> also worked for Colt Arms and for Rockwell International, working on the
> Colt Government Model 45, and also in 50's development of firing missles
> from Helicopters. Because of this later work, I don't think there is
> any reason to connect him with the famous Miller of Indy 500 USAC
> racing. I have consulted "My World of Cars," Geoffrey's "Austin
> Healey," and Browning/Needham's "Healeys and Austin Healeys" without
> finding any reference to Eddie Miller. Can some of you historians out
> there shed any light on this? For now I have reported that no
> connection can be found. Thanks in advance for any expertise you can
> provide.
>
> John May
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 16:49:00 +1000
Subject: Cheers for Lucas
I have for some time been meaning to come to the defence of the much maligned
Lucas organisation and when someone last week made mention of the Lucas Fuel
Injection system I thought the time was now.
Honestly since I finished the BN3 back in 1985 I have not had a single problem
with the car's electrics. It is still fitted with the original harness that I
soaked for days in water and laundry powder and then had cloth bound. All the
connections were new and therefore perfectly clean and I made sure that each
earth was secure. Ancillaries like the starter, generator etc were all checked
and given a clean bill of health.
I may be wrong but it's when the connections start to corrode over the years is
when the problems occur. That can happen with any make including Lucas, Bosch
etc.
Being a Mini owner for many years I often wondered at the wisdom of placing the
distributor directly behind the grille in the worst possible place for water
entry. Why not have it driving off the camshaft at the rear of the engine. It
wasn't the fault of Lucas but BMC.
The Lucas fuel injection is a perfect example of where a good idea is being let
down by something else.
Mercedes Benz perfected fuel injection during WW2 and it was used with great
effect in the German fighters of the period. However aircraft engines generally
run at constant revolutions which the fuel injection could easily cope with.
After trying out the similar equipment in their racing cars during the fifties
the German company gave up because they couldn't get the system to cope with
the constant rise and fall in engine revolutions.
English engine manufacturer Coventry Climax also tried without success to use
fuel injection in their racing engines but without success. Then it was only
when Lucas invented their mechanical metering apparatus did fuel injection rise
to is success. For some years Lucas fuel injected Climax engines powered the
winning competition cars throughout the world. Where did Chevrolet obtain the
expertise for the 'fuelie" Corvettes? Yes Lucas?
The fuel injection system as fitted to such cars as the Triumph TR5/6 and
Maserati is an excellent system, but is let down by the pumping system after
some penny pinching accountant decided not to develop proper high pressure fuel
pumps to keep the fuel up to the system. In fact they were wiper motors with
pumping mechanisms fitted on the end and just not designed to run constantly.
Thankfully electronic pumps have since put paid to the pumping difficulty.
So the next time your car's electrics is playing up just spare a thought as to
what really is the problem.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 00:33:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Bollocks for Lucas
Well written and I concur in principle, however I must
take issue with the following:
1) The Lucas panel light reostat on rubber bumper MGBs
was the biggest piece of flotsam ever made in
electronic switching history. I ran through 3
switches in two years on my '79 MGB before I got fed
up, sold my MGB and bought my first healey (the BJ8).
Thank god for that bloody switch convincing me I
should trade up to a healey. Please no comments on my
taste in cars as... I would never buy a rubber bumper
MGB again.
2) Electronic ignition on my '79 MGB - Ditto, see
above comments on reostat switch. Many MGB owners
switched back to old points and condensor set-ups.
3) Turn signal/horn switch on '79 MGBs. Pure cr*p.
See above setiments.
4) L-691/692 indicator lights on the BJ8 - they easily
fill up with water in the rain and short out if not
properly maintained. Then again, my dad's '80 Olds
did the same thing. The earlier indicators on 100's
were much better, albeit tiny.
5) Lucas voltage regulators (RB340) - although more or
less reliable, they rarely work entirely in line with
factory specs - even after adjustment. The bloody amp
circuit's contacts are ALWAYS fried. I've also fried
too many batteries over the years because of the
RB340.
6) Lucas Hydraulic brake switches - I fault Lucas for
not using the million times more reliable lever
operated switches that almost the entire rest of the
world uses on their cars. These switches wear out
over time, and I consider them to be relatively
unsafe.
7) Trafficator / flasher relay. Outmoded and obsolete
by 1928. Why does my '66 BJ8 have this set up on the
car? One has to wonder. Does your BN3's trafficator
return to neutral as it's supposed to? Mine doesn't
and it's only three years old.
8) Wiring Loom - I haven't had as much luck as you in
this regard, as I had a 2 year old loom catch on fire
once when it shorted out (on the primary ignition
wire). Then again, I suppose the loom was probably
made by someone else other than lucas as it was 1986
when I bought it.
The floor is yours, my esteemed collegue.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
wrote:
> G'day Mates
>
> I have for some time been meaning to come to the
> defence of the much maligned Lucas organisation and
> when someone last week made mention of the Lucas
> Fuel Injection system I thought the time was now.
>
> Honestly since I finished the BN3 back in 1985 I
> have not had a single problem with the car's
> electrics. It is still fitted with the original
> harness that I soaked for days in water and laundry
> powder and then had cloth bound. All the connections
> were new and therefore perfectly clean and I made
> sure that each earth was secure. Ancillaries like
> the starter, generator etc were all checked and
> given a clean bill of health.
>
> I may be wrong but it's when the connections start
> to corrode over the years is when the problems
> occur. That can happen with any make including
> Lucas, Bosch etc.
>
> Being a Mini owner for many years I often wondered
> at the wisdom of placing the distributor directly
> behind the grille in the worst possible place for
> water entry. Why not have it driving off the
> camshaft at the rear of the engine. It wasn't the
> fault of Lucas but BMC.
>
> The Lucas fuel injection is a perfect example of
> where a good idea is being let down by something
> else.
>
> Mercedes Benz perfected fuel injection during WW2
> and it was used with great effect in the German
> fighters of the period. However aircraft engines
> generally run at constant revolutions which the fuel
> injection could easily cope with. After trying out
> the similar equipment in their racing cars during
> the fifties the German company gave up because they
> couldn't get the system to cope with the constant
> rise and fall in engine revolutions.
>
> English engine manufacturer Coventry Climax also
> tried without success to use fuel injection in their
> racing engines but without success. Then it was only
> when Lucas invented their mechanical metering
> apparatus did fuel injection rise to is success. For
> some years Lucas fuel injected Climax engines
> powered the winning competition cars throughout the
> world. Where did Chevrolet obtain the expertise for
> the 'fuelie" Corvettes? Yes Lucas?
>
> The fuel injection system as fitted to such cars as
> the Triumph TR5/6 and Maserati is an excellent
> system, but is let down by the pumping system after
> some penny pinching accountant decided not to
> develop proper high pressure fuel pumps to keep the
> fuel up to the system. In fact they were wiper
> motors with pumping mechanisms fitted on the end and
> just not designed to run constantly. Thankfully
> electronic pumps have since put paid to the pumping
> difficulty.
>
> So the next time your car's electrics is playing up
> just spare a thought as to what really is the
> problem.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Josef.Eckert at t-mobile.de
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: 29 May 2002 08:20:39 +0000
Subject: Re:Owners manual in other language
Josef Eckert
Germany
54 BN1,
62, BT7
65, Sprite
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 20:30:23 +1000
Subject: Re:O'dr quiz]
As an aside to all this, there is a mistake in the BN1 manual, as it doesn't
mention aligning the timing marks on the sun gear pinions outward when
assembling
the sun gear into the annulus. I believe this is because the text was written
around the early high percentage overdrive where the pinions were not stepped
and
didn't require timing. The experts tell me failing to time the pinions causes
uneven wear in the annulus. Another fascinating fact - you will always find a
molybond like substance in the groove behind the teeth in the annulus, why?
because the annulus acts like a centrifuge and extracts some of the additives
from the oil.
Cheers
Larry Varley
>
>
> Subject: O'dr quiz
> Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 21:28:28 EDT
> From: Rmoment@aol.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
>
> I thought the following might make for an interesting discussion. I present
> some symptoms and initial diagnostics. Your task is to come up with a short
> list of possible causes. Each suggested fault should be accompanyed with a
> brief explanation of why it might be the problem.
>
> The car is a BN1.
>
> 1) On day (1) the overdrive worked/engaged just fine.
> 2) On day (2) it didn't work at all.
> 3) Checking out the electrical circuits showed that all components were
> operating exactly as they are supposed to.
> 4) With the car up on jack stands and running, the solenoid operated when
> the speedometer reached 40 mph as it is supposed to. It also released when
> the throttle switch was appropriately depressed after flipping the panel
> switch to "Normal". (All this was part of the electrical check above).
> 5) Testing with a pressure gage showed no (read zero!!) oil pressure.
>
> There are only a few possiblities that could result in the observed test
> results.
>
> I'll give you all the answer in a few days and explain how the rather easy
> fix was done.
>
> Roger
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 07:32:17 -0400
Subject: aluminum body work
Fred
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From <caudle1 at charter.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 23:51:28 -0400
Subject: fuel sending info
Thanks Dave
blue bj8 blue ridge mts.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 07:26:35 -0600
Subject: Re: As the rotor turns.
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: "'Heard'" <heard@datatrontech.net>; "'Healey List'"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 6:47 PM
Subject: RE: As the rotor turns.
> Hi Heard,
>
> It is usually easiest and more accurate to turn the rotors whilst on the
> hub. With the correct equipment you can actually use the bearing cups to
> centre the hub.
>
> Minimum thickness for your discs is 0.325"
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com/
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Heard
> Sent: 28-May-02 6:11 PM
> To: Healey List
> Subject: As the rotor turns.
>
> Hello Everyone,
> I got tired of doing body work on my BT7 and decided to take a break and
> do
> some mechanical work instead. While rebuilding the front suspension, I
> got
> to wondering about turning the rotors. It seems that someone on the
> list
> has stated that any decent brake shop can turn these rotors. Assuming
> this
> is true, should I take these to the shop mounted or unmounted to the
> hub?
> Anything else I need to know about this?
>
> Thanks,
> Heard Saxon
> 60 BT7 still in many pieces
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 10:00:14 -0400
Subject: RE: Rough idle
Last night I took another look at the needles and verified that they were
the same and "UH" type (standard, not lean or rich). What I noticed was that
one needle was inserted further into the piston than the other and this was
the carburetor that had too rich a mixture and couldn't be adjusted to a
leaner mixture. I adjusted both needles so that the non-tapered part was all
in the piston but no further. This fixed the rough idle ... I ran out of
time, so only adjusted the mixture and balance by hand (and ear), but it's
running better than ever and idles nicely at 600 rpm.
Thanks to all those who sent me emails.
Andy
'67 BJ8
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rmoment at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 10:06:48 EDT
Subject: O'dr quiz answer
The key to thinking out a trouble shooting plan is that the oil pressure was
zero. This can be caused by two areas, according to the shop manual, but,
when you lthink about it, more likely only one.
The shop manual points out issues associated with the oil pump and the
accumulator spring. My problem with the latter is that this is a very heavy
spring with coil spacing ov only 1/8 - 3/16". The accumulator piston has to
move back 9/16" in order to clear the pressure bleedoff holes, so even if the
spring broke, you'd have only about 1/3 of this movement until the broken
coils hit each other. The result ought to be a significantly reduced
pressure, but not zero.
The oil pump area is (and turned out to be) the culpret. Low oil is an
obvious cause of low pressure, but you'd have to lose a lot to get to the
point where the pump didn't pick any up, and this is easy to check. This
leaves:
1) the pumjp spring
2) the pump head
3) the check valve
The pump body would not be loose, as one person suggested, as it is a very
tight press fit to the O'dr case and it held in with screws to boot.
First you need to jack up the rear end of the car and drain the oil. You'll
next need to take out the seats, floor carpet, and transmission tunnel. The
checking procedure requires removing the side cover from the O'dr. The shop
manual clearly describes this procedure and must be followed exactly,
particulary with respect to relieving the accumulator spring pressure. Once
off, you can access the oil pump check valve. This is very much like the
operating valve -- it only differs in that the check ball is 1/4" in diameter
while the operating valve ball is 5/16". Use a BSF/Whitworth socket,
preferably 6-point, to avoid damaging the hex corners. Also have a magnet on
a wand available as it will be handy in keeping the spring, "T" rod and ball
from getting away from you.
Once the valve is out you can use a light and mirror to be able to look
directly down into the valve hole. With the gearbox in neutral, turn the
drive shaft by hand and you should see the piston move up and down in the
pump. If it does, then the pump spring is not broken. Another possibility
(if it doesn' appear to be working) is a broken bearing in the pump head
which allows the roller to drop away from the driving cam. This is less
likely. In any case, if the pump piston is not moving up and down you will
need to remove the gearbox and O'dr and separate them to make repairs.
If the piston does move up and down, then the problem is most likely caused
by dirt on the check valve keeping the ball from seating. As you work around
the bits, there are a number of things you can observe. If there are lots of
fine bonze particles in the bottom of the O'dr housing, you probably have
badly worn thrust washers and again will have to remove the O'dr to repair.
But this would not be a critical need as the O'dr (in my example) had been
working fine and had a "catastrophic" failure. Large bronze bits indicate a
more critical problem that should be immediately attended to. You also
should check that the check valve spring is long enough to hold the ball
against its seat. A slightly compressd spring would not have been the cause
of the failure, but when puting things back together you ought to make sure
they are as correct as possible. I believe the spring should be about 11/16
- 3/4" long. A bit of hand stretching will fix it if it is too short and a
replacemnt one is not available.
Also use a pipe cleaner or Q-tip to wipe clean the valve seat. Check that
this is clean using the light and mirror. Used compressd air to blow out the
valve and pump body. Putting the check valve back together I used a new 1/4"
ball and after placing it into the hole used a flat-ended metal rod and
hobbyists hammer to lightly tap it in place to seat it.
Remove and clean the oil filter and wipe out all debris from inside the O'dr
case. It is also a good idea to remove the operating valve and its push rod
and blow out the push rod as it has a small bleed-off hole towards the bottom
The shop manual tells all about it.
When I buttoned everything up and refilled with oil I had 400# pressure.
What I thought might be of interest to the group is that there is a lot of
servicing you can do without having to remove the O'dr. And observing the
pump piston motion allowed me to determine that this area was in order
without having to pull the gearbox. While I had been prepared for the worst,
the problem turned out to be rather "benign", as often is the case.
Roger
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch)
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 07:57:14 -0700
Subject: British Car Week Report
Well it is day three of British car week - I've taken my '59 Minor ragtop
out each day now as the weather has been perfect around Venice and Santa
Monica. The majority of British Cars that I've seen are late model Jags and
Range/Land Rovers driven by people who barly know that these cars are
British.
I drove by comedian, Bob Nelson's red Pickup on Ocean Ave and saw the girl
from the Marina in her orange, chrome bumper Midget that she drives daily
but nothing unusual . . . . . .
Then last night on the way to Shushi, we were driving up Main St, Venice
when I saw an odd British saloon looking profile parked across the street -
as we approached, IT WAS A JOWETT JAVELIN!!!!! I don't know if it was out
for British car week but it sure was cool!!
Cheers,
Rick Feibusch
Venice, CA
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 08:52:30 -0700
Subject: Re: "Holy Smoly"
I have - somewhere - a page from a British motoring magazine showing the
original BMW Z3 in a slightly different style than what went into
production, and badged as an 'Austin-Healey'.
The story is that when BMW took over Rover awhile back, that they expected
that they had the right to the use of the Austin-Healey name. That turned
out not to be the case! The legal rights to the name rested with the Donald
Healey Motor Company, which I believe is now controlled by Margot Healey
and, I think, her daughters.
I learned of this in a conversation with Margot - she and the girls had
quite a legal battle to establish exactly who controlled the use of the
name. So, the car in question came out as a BMW, and, at this point, I
don't believe that you will see a BMW badged as an Austin-Healey. Margot
seemed quite adamant about that, in spite of the fact that I would guess
that it would mean a great deal of money to her and her family if she were
to choose to negotiate the use or sale of the name.
I believe that my memory is correct on this. If any other listers have new
or different information, I would welcome any corrections.
Regards to Erika.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <JSoderling@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 5:57 PM
Subject: "Holy Smoly"
Had an interesting experience yesterday right out of that cool BMW ad as I
was driving my Erika the Red down Danville Boulevard between Walnut Creek
and
Danville in support of British Car Week. As I pulled up to a stop at a
traffic signal, a BMW Z8 pulled up along side of me. The driver looked over
at my Healey and exclaimed "holy," to which I replied in admiration of his
cool Z8, "smoly." We gave each other a "thumbs up" as we left the signal,
with me eating his exhaust.
The Z8 is a fantastic looking roadster and the closest contemporary car in
the mold of the classic British roadster. Does anyone know when BMW is
going
to bring out the new Austin Healey roadster? I want one.
Vrooom vrooom,
John
100-Six Erika the Red
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 09:03:41 -0700
Subject: Ultra Slick vs. Cam Lube
Thanks,
John
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 11:33:28 -0500
Subject: Rare and unusual LBC
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 11:51:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Ultra Slick vs. Cam Lube
Cam Lube is a protector for just the first few minutes of a cam's life...
the lifter and cam surfaces are obviously metal to metal with just the very
thinnest of sheets of oil between them during normal operation of the
motor.... In the initial start up of a motor there isn't any oil pumping
through the oil passages even if you Prime the Oil pump first ( wouldn't
consider starting a fresh engine without Priming the oil by the way ) so
whatever you smear ALL OVER the lifter and cam surfaces has to cling well
enough Not to get slung off in those first few crucial seconds of operation
and provide enough added lubrication so the two metal surfaces can wear
correctly in the first 15 minutes or so of the cams life.....
As the surfaces wear in they create more heat then is there in normal
operation so a Cam Lube of some kind really does aid well past that first
few revolutions... by providing added lubrication to keep it cool while it
breaks in.
The Break in of course should be done to the manufactures spec's.... but as
I recall my Kent cam didn't come with any so I did it like I would any
other.... fired it up ... ran it until I saw oil in the push rods....
slipped the valve cover back on and ran it 15 minutes at 2500rpm constantly
checking that the motor wasn't over heating and the Oil Pressure was
good....seems to have worked just fine...
As for the actual difference in the two products.... I would be leery of
any claims by something Other then one designed expressly for the purpose
of Cam LUBE.
Keith
----------
> From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@cox.net>
> To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
> Subject: Ultra Slick vs. Cam Lube
> Date: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 11:03 AM
>
> Does anyone know if these two lubes are essentially the same or is the
> Cam Lube better to use on lifters and cam surfaces?
>
> Thanks,
> John
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 10:08:23 -0700
Subject: Fw: "Holy Smoly"
----- Original Message -----
From: <TRICARB@aol.com>
To: <kags@shaw.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 9:46 AM
Subject: Re: "Holy Smoly"
Earl, a slight but important comment on your email. Margot does not own the
name `Austin Healey' Rover does!
She owns the name `Healey' and wing design. Bill
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 12:12:56 -0500
Subject: Re: aluminum body work
Good Luck, Mark
> Hi,
> I am about to undertake restoring the rear shroud of my BN7. I have
> years of experience of doing body / lead work on steel panels but none
> working with aluminum. The shroud that butts up against the door jam is
> separated from the rear fender and bead resulting from corrosion. Would
> someone please explain to me the proper method of welding the aluminum and
> metal prep for (Bondo...ughhhh or is there something better?). I would
> greatly appreciated it.
>
>
> Fred
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 10:33:50 -0700
Subject: Re: Ultra Slick vs. Cam Lube
Thanks for the detailed response.
The reason I ask is because I have a bottle of Permatex Ultra Slick and it
claims " is specially formulated lubricant that when used on critical engine
components reduces friction during initial engine start-up. Ultra Slick can be
used on: Engine bearings, Rocker Arms, Camshafts and lifters, Timing
components, Valves and guides, Rocker shaft assemblies". I do not have any Cam
Lube and was wondering if it is specifically formulated just for Cam and Lifter
applications making it the better product just for this area. It does seem like
they are comparable products. Maybe someone with experience with both products
will chime in.
I can understand the importance of these engine assembly lubes when installing
fresh parts due to the higher initial heat and wear. If you are just
reinstalling parts, lets say a rocker arm assembly or lifters that have been
pulled for inspection is the use of assembly lube needed or just a coating of
engine oil sufficient?
Regards,
John
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 13:38:27 EDT
Subject: Re: "Holy Smoly"
Cheers
Gary Anderson
editor, British Car Magazine
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Robert J. Denton/Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 13:54:39 -0700
Subject: Re: Rare and unusual LBC
http://www.kitcar.com/beck/home.html
"Brashear, Jack, N" wrote:
> Hi Listers, a few days ago I was motoring around the central Arkansas area in
> the Sprite chasing parts for my AH 3000. To my amazement I saw someone
> cruising in what I'm sure was a BRG Lister (not an Email lister) with white
> number roundels and a yellow center stripe. We were on opposite sides of the
> road and I was unable to track him down. I'm old enough to recognize cars
> such as Listers, Cunninghams, Allards, etc. so this was quite a surprise to
> me. Does anyone know if such cars might come as repro kits?? What a neat
> sighting that was...I'd love to get a closer look!!
> Jack Brashear
> Little Rock, Arkansas
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 12:45:55 -0600
Subject: Re: Check drums, balance your own wheels
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 12:27 PM
Subject: Check drums, balance your own wheels
> frogeye wrote:
> >
> > Now is a good time to check for out of balance rotors too....can you say
> > ''scuttle shake "............
>
> Hi Frogeye-
>
> That goes double for brake drums. Jack up one rear wheel and spin it
> and remember that the speedometer reads half of actual wheel speed when
> the other wheel is on the ground, i.e., speedometer reading 30 equals 60
> on the road.
>
> If you feel vibration or shaking, take off the wheel and spin the brake
> drum. If no vibration, the wheel needs balancing, if vibration the brake
> drum is out of balance. In the past one of my drums was out around 3
> ounces and caused noticeable vibration.
>
> If brake drum is out you can have it balanced or balance the wheel on
> the car. Or you can rotate the wheel 180 degrees and try it again.
>
> Or you can pick up some one and two ounce weights, put one on by the
> valve stem for reference, spin the wheel, note vibration increase or
> decrease, move it 180, spin again, and by trial and error, first finding
> the light part of the rim, then adding or decreasing weight, you can
> virtually eliminate the vibration.
>
> You can buy flat stick-on weights at parts stores and have some fun
> doing this. With a good rear drum you could check the balance of all
> your wheels if needed.
>
> Rich
> BT7
>
>
> Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> '59 AH :{) '54 100
> http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
> To: "'Heard'" <heard@datatrontech.net>; "'Healey List'"
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 6:47 PM
> Subject: RE: As the rotor turns.
>
>
> > Hi Heard,
> >
> > It is usually easiest and more accurate to turn the rotors whilst on the
> > hub. With the correct equipment you can actually use the bearing cups to
> > centre the hub.
> >
> > Minimum thickness for your discs is 0.325"
> >
> > Michael Salter
> > www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> > On Behalf Of Heard
> > Sent: 28-May-02 6:11 PM
> > To: Healey List
> > Subject: As the rotor turns.
> >
> > Hello Everyone,
> > I got tired of doing body work on my BT7 and decided to take a break and
> > do
> > some mechanical work instead. While rebuilding the front suspension, I
> > got
> > to wondering about turning the rotors. It seems that someone on the
> > list
> > has stated that any decent brake shop can turn these rotors. Assuming
> > this
> > is true, should I take these to the shop mounted or unmounted to the
> > hub?
> > Anything else I need to know about this?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Heard Saxon
> > 60 BT7 still in many pieces
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Neil Home Mail" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 12:23:50 -0700
Subject: RE: Check drums, balance your own wheels
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of frogeye
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 11:46 AM
To: LifeisRich@MacConnect.com; Healey List
Subject: Re: Check drums, balance your own wheels
I've yet to see an original brake drum from a big Healey that was not at
least 1 1/2 ounces off....
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 12:27 PM
Subject: Check drums, balance your own wheels
> frogeye wrote:
> >
> > Now is a good time to check for out of balance rotors too....can you say
> > ''scuttle shake "............
>
> Hi Frogeye-
>
> That goes double for brake drums. Jack up one rear wheel and spin it
> and remember that the speedometer reads half of actual wheel speed when
> the other wheel is on the ground, i.e., speedometer reading 30 equals 60
> on the road.
>
> If you feel vibration or shaking, take off the wheel and spin the brake
> drum. If no vibration, the wheel needs balancing, if vibration the brake
> drum is out of balance. In the past one of my drums was out around 3
> ounces and caused noticeable vibration.
>
> If brake drum is out you can have it balanced or balance the wheel on
> the car. Or you can rotate the wheel 180 degrees and try it again.
>
> Or you can pick up some one and two ounce weights, put one on by the
> valve stem for reference, spin the wheel, note vibration increase or
> decrease, move it 180, spin again, and by trial and error, first finding
> the light part of the rim, then adding or decreasing weight, you can
> virtually eliminate the vibration.
>
> You can buy flat stick-on weights at parts stores and have some fun
> doing this. With a good rear drum you could check the balance of all
> your wheels if needed.
>
> Rich
> BT7
>
>
> Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> '59 AH :{) '54 100
> http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
> To: "'Heard'" <heard@datatrontech.net>; "'Healey List'"
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 6:47 PM
> Subject: RE: As the rotor turns.
>
>
> > Hi Heard,
> >
> > It is usually easiest and more accurate to turn the rotors whilst on the
> > hub. With the correct equipment you can actually use the bearing cups to
> > centre the hub.
> >
> > Minimum thickness for your discs is 0.325"
> >
> > Michael Salter
> > www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> > On Behalf Of Heard
> > Sent: 28-May-02 6:11 PM
> > To: Healey List
> > Subject: As the rotor turns.
> >
> > Hello Everyone,
> > I got tired of doing body work on my BT7 and decided to take a break and
> > do
> > some mechanical work instead. While rebuilding the front suspension, I
> > got
> > to wondering about turning the rotors. It seems that someone on the
> > list
> > has stated that any decent brake shop can turn these rotors. Assuming
> > this
> > is true, should I take these to the shop mounted or unmounted to the
> > hub?
> > Anything else I need to know about this?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Heard Saxon
> > 60 BT7 still in many pieces
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 20:31:08 +0100
Subject: Fair valuation
A fellow 100 enthusiast had agree to purchase from me a brand new/old
stock original Lucas complete Horn and Trafficator Assembly. This is
exactly right for a 100 other than it has the "ear" type lever rather
than the earlier "banana" type.
I am not asking for the highest bid because the sale is already agreed
but we are trying to set the most honest and fair price between fellow
100 owners.
We would appreciate any advice on what other owners would consider a
fair price. This can be in any currency so long as this is made clear.
Thanking people in advance.
All the best
--
John Harper
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 15:53:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Check drums, balance your own wheels
When balancing drums, how do you attach weights? I tried epoxy and they
flew off upon hard braking. How about grinding off some of the flange on
the heavy side? I wonder how Hendrix does it.
Anybody know?
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neil Home Mail" <neilberg@telus.net>
To: "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 3:23 PM
Subject: RE: Check drums, balance your own wheels
> I just had my drums balanced a short while ago. One was out 1 1/2 ounces
and
> the other was out 2 ounces. It made a noticeable difference in the ride.
> Having the wheels statically balanced and drums high speed balanced got
rid
> of about 90% of the shake. The other 10% may be me....Neil
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 16:15:38 -0400
Subject: Re: "Holy Smoly"
I am certainly no megacorp CEO or President, but if I were I doubt very
seriously that I would put out a model of car (modern day AH) in direct
competition with a current model in my stable (Z3). Just would not make
sense. Let John Q. Pulblic go the extra few grand and buy the Z3.
Keith Pennell
> John:
>
> I have - somewhere - a page from a British motoring magazine showing the
> original BMW Z3 in a slightly different style than what went into
> production, and badged as an 'Austin-Healey'.
>
> The story is that when BMW took over Rover awhile back, that they expected
> that they had the right to the use of the Austin-Healey name. That turned
> out not to be the case! The legal rights to the name rested with the
Donald
> Healey Motor Company, which I believe is now controlled by Margot Healey
> and, I think, her daughters.
>
> I learned of this in a conversation with Margot - she and the girls had
> quite a legal battle to establish exactly who controlled the use of the
> name. So, the car in question came out as a BMW, and, at this point, I
> don't believe that you will see a BMW badged as an Austin-Healey. Margot
> seemed quite adamant about that, in spite of the fact that I would guess
> that it would mean a great deal of money to her and her family if she were
> to choose to negotiate the use or sale of the name.
>
> I believe that my memory is correct on this. If any other listers have
new
> or different information, I would welcome any corrections.
>
> Regards to Erika.
>
> Earl Kagna
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 20:27:46 +0000
Subject: Re: Check drums, balance your own wheels
- Chinese Proverb
> Neil:
>
> When balancing drums, how do you attach weights? I tried epoxy and they
> flew off upon hard braking. How about grinding off some of the flange on
> the heavy side? I wonder how Hendrix does it.
>
> Anybody know?
>
> Jim
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Neil Home Mail" <neilberg@telus.net>
> To: "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 3:23 PM
> Subject: RE: Check drums, balance your own wheels
>
>
> > I just had my drums balanced a short while ago. One was out 1 1/2 ounces
> and
> > the other was out 2 ounces. It made a noticeable difference in the ride.
> > Having the wheels statically balanced and drums high speed balanced got
> rid
> > of about 90% of the shake. The other 10% may be me....Neil
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 16:36:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Check drums, balance your own wheels
<< Hendrix must have used acid (this is a musician joke)
How does JB weld work? >>
JB Weld is a harsh buzz. Try JB, water.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Neil Home Mail" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 13:48:09 -0700
Subject: RE: Check drums, balance your own wheels
-----Original Message-----
From: AH102 [mailto:bluechipracing@snet.net]
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 12:54 PM
To: Neil Home Mail; 'Healey List'
Subject: Re: Check drums, balance your own wheels
Neil:
When balancing drums, how do you attach weights? I tried epoxy and they
flew off upon hard braking. How about grinding off some of the flange on
the heavy side? I wonder how Hendrix does it.
Anybody know?
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neil Home Mail" <neilberg@telus.net>
To: "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 3:23 PM
Subject: RE: Check drums, balance your own wheels
> I just had my drums balanced a short while ago. One was out 1 1/2 ounces
and
> the other was out 2 ounces. It made a noticeable difference in the ride.
> Having the wheels statically balanced and drums high speed balanced got
rid
> of about 90% of the shake. The other 10% may be me....Neil
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 20:50:07 +0000
Subject: Re: "Holy Smoly"
- Chinese Proverb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 21:51:53 +0100
Subject: Re: Rare and unusual LBC
Peter Dzwig
Robert J. Denton/Auburn Design Group wrote:
>Here is the website for the Lister replica.
>
>http://www.kitcar.com/beck/home.html
>
>"Brashear, Jack, N" wrote:
>
>>Hi Listers, a few days ago I was motoring around the central Arkansas area in
>>the Sprite chasing parts for my AH 3000. To my amazement I saw someone
>>cruising in what I'm sure was a BRG Lister (not an Email lister) with white
>>number roundels and a yellow center stripe. We were on opposite sides of the
>>road and I was unable to track him down. I'm old enough to recognize cars
>>such as Listers, Cunninghams, Allards, etc. so this was quite a surprise to
>>me. Does anyone know if such cars might come as repro kits?? What a neat
>>sighting that was...I'd love to get a closer look!!
>>Jack Brashear
>>Little Rock, Arkansas
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 13:55:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Fw: "Holy Smoly"
It's my understanding that if BMW could have used the name at the time the
Z3 was introduced, they most definitely would have done so.
I believe that whatever was done by the Healey family to stop that from
happening was successful.
It would be worthwhile to have someone close to Margot verify this in due
course, and to confirm what the current status may be. (You're nominated
Bill!)
Earl
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <kags@shaw.ca>; <OldHealeys@aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 11:29 AM
Subject: Re: Fw: "Holy Smoly"
In a message dated 5/29/02 10:09:08 AM, kags@shaw.ca writes:
<<
Earl, a slight but important comment on your email. Margot does not own the
name `Austin Healey' Rover does!
She owns the name `Healey' and wing design. Bill >>
Actually, I wonder about that -- Bill, I'm sure you got your info first hand
from Margot about what they own (which I am of the same understanding as you
-- they control the Healey family name, and the original wings logo).
What I'm fairly certain of is that MG-Rover Group only got rights to the MG
and Rover names and logos; I believe that those were the only ones that BMW
transferred when they sold (gave) the Rover assets to the new group. So that
could possibly leave "Austin-Healey" rights with BMW. But, (and I'm
guessing
here) could BMW use "Austin Healey" -- with or without the hyphen -- if they
didn't have her agreement regarding the Healey name?
Too bad she won't be at Tahoe so somebody could ask her directly in an open
forum.
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 13:47:09 -0700
Subject: Re: Check drums, balance your own wheels
I had my BJ8 drums balanced at an automotive machine shop a while back - one
drum was perfect, the other slightly off - less than 1/2 oz. They welded a
small weight in an out of sight spot inside the innermost rib. I've also
seen drums with small parts of ribs ground off to balance them.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "AH102" <bluechipracing@snet.net>
To: "Neil Home Mail" <neilberg@telus.net>; "'Healey List'"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 12:53 PM
Subject: Re: Check drums, balance your own wheels
Neil:
When balancing drums, how do you attach weights? I tried epoxy and they
flew off upon hard braking. How about grinding off some of the flange on
the heavy side? I wonder how Hendrix does it.
Anybody know?
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neil Home Mail" <neilberg@telus.net>
To: "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 3:23 PM
Subject: RE: Check drums, balance your own wheels
> I just had my drums balanced a short while ago. One was out 1 1/2 ounces
and
> the other was out 2 ounces. It made a noticeable difference in the ride.
> Having the wheels statically balanced and drums high speed balanced got
rid
> of about 90% of the shake. The other 10% may be me....Neil
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Robert J. Denton/Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 16:55:18 -0700
Subject: Re: Rare and unusual LBC
bob
Peter Dzwig wrote:
> As far as I recollect and I have seen a few recently - I don't recall
> such a huge bonnet bulge...
>
> Peter Dzwig
>
> Robert J. Denton/Auburn Design Group wrote:
>
> >Here is the website for the Lister replica.
> >
> >http://www.kitcar.com/beck/home.html
> >
> >"Brashear, Jack, N" wrote:
> >
> >>Hi Listers, a few days ago I was motoring around the central Arkansas area
>in
> >>the Sprite chasing parts for my AH 3000. To my amazement I saw someone
> >>cruising in what I'm sure was a BRG Lister (not an Email lister) with white
> >>number roundels and a yellow center stripe. We were on opposite sides of
>the
> >>road and I was unable to track him down. I'm old enough to recognize cars
> >>such as Listers, Cunninghams, Allards, etc. so this was quite a surprise to
> >>me. Does anyone know if such cars might come as repro kits?? What a neat
> >>sighting that was...I'd love to get a closer look!!
> >>Jack Brashear
> >>Little Rock, Arkansas
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 22:02:11 +0100
Subject: Experience on triple HD8s
I am thinking of putting my (rhd) car on triple 2" SUs. Its a BN4 with
3000 engine in it (roughly) and a bit more. I have checked the archive
but am unsure how people feel about HD8s in day-to-day use(I don't mean
as a daily driver!), tuning the set up and keeping it tuned. Has anyone
out there got any similar observations for triple HD6s?
Thanks,
Peter Dzwig
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 14:02:38 -0700
Subject: RE: Rare and unusual LBC
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 16:16:10 -0500
Subject: RE: Rare and unusual LBC
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert J. Denton/Auburn Design Group
[mailto:foxriverkid@earthlink.net]
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 6:55 PM
To: pdzwig@summaventures.com
Cc: Brashear, Jack, N; Healey List
Subject: Re: Rare and unusual LBC
According to Mr. Beck, that large a bulge was required for the big block chevy.
The 350 didn't need it nearly as large.
bob
Peter Dzwig wrote:
> As far as I recollect and I have seen a few recently - I don't recall
> such a huge bonnet bulge...
>
> Peter Dzwig
>
> Robert J. Denton/Auburn Design Group wrote:
>
> >Here is the website for the Lister replica.
> >
> >http://www.kitcar.com/beck/home.html
> >
> >"Brashear, Jack, N" wrote:
> >
> >>Hi Listers, a few days ago I was motoring around the central Arkansas area
>in
> >>the Sprite chasing parts for my AH 3000. To my amazement I saw someone
> >>cruising in what I'm sure was a BRG Lister (not an Email lister) with white
> >>number roundels and a yellow center stripe. We were on opposite sides of
>the
> >>road and I was unable to track him down. I'm old enough to recognize cars
> >>such as Listers, Cunninghams, Allards, etc. so this was quite a surprise to
> >>me. Does anyone know if such cars might come as repro kits?? What a neat
> >>sighting that was...I'd love to get a closer look!!
> >>Jack Brashear
> >>Little Rock, Arkansas
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 17:22:12 EDT
Subject: Re: Rare and unusual LBC
In a message dated 5/29/02 13:18:57, jnbrashear@GarverInc.com writes:
<< Hi Folks, thanks to all who responded to my "Rare And Unusual LBC" post.
Repro kit or not, visiting that Beck Lister web page got my blood pumping. I
just can't help myself...it's always been Healeys only for me. I bought my
'62 BT7 Mk2 new and have never let go of it. Still...at the reasonable price
for the Lister kit...when the Healey's restoration if finished pretty
soon...hmmmmm. I probably won't sleep well tonight.
Jack >>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 08:12:07 +1000
Subject: Re: "Holy Smoly"
You will find it here:
http://www.myaustinhealey.com/project_warwick.html
It is my understanding that Healey Automotive Consultants (HAC) owns the
registered trademark Healey and the wing design. For BMW to build a new car
with the name "Austin-Healey" they would have to licence/buy the name Healey
from HAC - which is what I believe they did to build the new "Mini-Cooper".
BMW (through its ownership of Heritage at Gaydon) owns trademarks from
'past' brands - but I understand that relates to reproducing badges parts etc
for
past models - and NOT for making whole new cars.
If BMW owns the name 'Austin -Healey" (and its predecessors - ie Leyland) -
why were the last 1,000 Mk IV sprites badged "Austin Sprite" (not Austin
Healey) back around 1971 after the licence to use the Healey name expired ?
BTW - BMW 'owns' the name MG - and licences it to Rover for the current
range of cars.
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 3:08 AM
Subject: Fw: "Holy Smoly"
> I stand corrected! --------- Earl
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <TRICARB@aol.com>
> To: <kags@shaw.ca>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 9:46 AM
> Subject: Re: "Holy Smoly"
>
>
> Earl, a slight but important comment on your email. Margot does not own
the
> name `Austin Healey' Rover does!
> She owns the name `Healey' and wing design. Bill
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 16:33:44 -0700
Subject: inner outer
Thanks,
John
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 20:41:19 EDT
Subject: Re: "Holy Smoly"
<< BMW (through its ownership of Heritage at Gaydon) >>
That's one point where your information may be a little out of date. All the
"ownership" that was transferrable, i.e. buildings and grounds, of Heritage
Trust transferred to Ford when they acquired Land Rover. The Heritage Trust
itself is, as the name might imply, a National Trust and self-owned. The
current chairman of the board of directors of BMIHT is Bob Dover, Managing
Director of Land Rover.
Your point regarding the Austin Sprite makes it clear why there won't be a
new Austin-Healey until Margot and her daughters agree. Donald Healey
retained control of his name and when BL severed the relationship, they
discovered they could no longer use the Healey name on the Sprite.
Cheers
gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 20:48:26 -0400
Subject: RE: inner outer
As usual with these things there is a trick.
Visit your local nut and bolt pusher and buy a large thick washer that
is slightly bigger in OD than the ID of the bearing. As I recall 2 1/2"
OD is the one. File about 1/16" off opposite sides of the washer to make
it small enough to just slide through the inside of the inner race.
Slide it through, then turn the washer 90 degrees then pull it up to
face against the race.
It is then an easy job to tap or press the race out with a piece of 1
1/2" bar or pipe.
Sometimes you have to chamfer the edge of the washer to allow it to turn
in the hub bore.
Did you follow that?
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Loftus
Sent: 29-May-02 7:34 PM
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: inner outer
Replacing the front hubs (wire wheel, BJ7) and have everything
disassembled except for the inner bearing outer race. The workshop
manual says to use Service Tool 18G260 with adapter 18G260J but there
are no illustrations at the back for this particular tool. Know of a
comparable tool or good method for extracting this bugger? The archives
failed me on this one.
Thanks,
John
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Nicholas Zarkades <zdesign at attbi.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 21:18:38 -0500
Subject: British Car Day & Austin Healey 50th Anniversary June 30th
British car day
Austin Healey 50th Anniversary Show at the Larz Anderson Auto Museum,
Brookline, MA * Sunday, June 30th.
We are planning to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Healey Marque by
joining in with the Larz Anderson Auto Museum's British Car Day on Sunday,
June 30th. Last year they had close to 300 cars, so they are excited that we
will be joining them.
The Larz Anderson Auto Museum is located in Brookline, MA and is a
huge 64-acre estate. Take a moment and check out their web site,
(www.mot.org/).
The arrival time for cars is 10 am and the show goes till 4 pm. They
will have catered food and drinks. The museum will be giving out 1st and 2nd
place awards in each marque and also 1st and 2nd place awards overall. The
entrance fee is $15, which goes to the museum and allows you access to the
museum.
Healey participants will receive a poster commemorating the
anniversary and there will be one framed poster that we'll raffled off
during the day.
Nick Zarkades is handling this event and has registration forms that
can be mailed or e-mailed to you. The museum would like to know by the 24th
of June how many Healeys will be there so they can plan out all the cars
around the estate. Nick can be reached at 978-922-3956 home, 978-922-9199
work, e-mail zdesign@attbi.com.
Nick also needs a couple of volunteers to help jockey the cars and
put up display materials.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "C. Hall" <hallc at vianet.on.ca>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 21:15:26 -0400
Subject: Wanted to buy blue Healey
Looking to buy a 3000 Healey BN7, BT7, BJ7 or BJ8.
Colour to be Healey blue and a recent quality restoration.
Replies to hallc@vianet.on.ca
Thanks,
Charles Hall
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 18:23:17 -0700
Subject: Re: inner outer
Clever solution .. I like it!
It turns out that I might not need to remove the race after all if I end up
buying new bearings and installing them in the new hubs. The bearings look
fine, although it's probably prudent to replace them. I never know how to
check bearing except to clean them out, look at them closely and see if
everything is turning smoothly. When in doubt, throw them out?
Regards,
John
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 18:23:09 -0700
Subject: Re: Check drums, balance your own wheels
Hi Jim-
I balanced my own drum once although if doing it again I'd have it
done. To attach the weights I drilled a maybe 1/8" hole into the high
ridge that circles the drum toward the center of the drum, tapped it,
and screwed on a standard wheel balancing weight, putting the screw
through the hole in the little clip on the weight. This was decades ago
and they lasted fine.
Rich
BT7
BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Jim Hill" <jrhill at chorus.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 20:27:00 -0500
Subject: Re: V1 #580
> I am thinking of putting my (rhd) car on triple 2" SUs.
Have you found a manifold for this setup?
Jim Hill
Madison WI
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 21:56:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Experience on triple HD8s
In general, I feel that HD6s and HD8s are the best SU
carbs from a maintenance perspective - they are by far
the easiest SU to adjust on the car, which may be
critical if you are running triple SUs on a sunday
racer.
Depending on how your engine is tuned, I'd stick with
the triple HD6s unless you have a really hot
racing/rally set up, as triple HD8s might be too much
SU unless your car pulls enough air. If you are
running a BJ8 cam, then triple HD6s or dual HD8s is
sufficient, triple HD8s won't give you any more power
and may cause hesitation on acceleration unless your
car has a hot set up.
Of course, triple SUs are always a bigger challenge to
tune and balance, so maybe a dual HD8 might just be
the ticket.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Peter Dzwig <pdzwig@summaventures.com> wrote:
> Listers,
>
> I am thinking of putting my (rhd) car on triple 2"
> SUs. Its a BN4 with
> 3000 engine in it (roughly) and a bit more. I have
> checked the archive
> but am unsure how people feel about HD8s in
> day-to-day use(I don't mean
> as a daily driver!), tuning the set up and keeping
> it tuned. Has anyone
> out there got any similar observations for triple
> HD6s?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Peter Dzwig
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 04:57:31 +0000
Subject: re: aluminum body work
Mark Fawcett
59 BT7-I'll be @ Tahoe but the car won't
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 22:39:07 -0700
Subject: CA drivers License
GREATER LOS ANGELES AREA DRIVER'S LICENSE APPLICATION:
Birth name: ____________________ Stage name: ____________________
Agent's name:___________________ Attorney/Solicitor's
name:_______________________
Therapist's name:_________________ Plastic Surgeon's name:_________________
Sex: ___male ___female ___formerly male ___formerly female ____both
*If female, indicate breast implant size: _______
Will the size of your implants hinder your ability to safely operate a motor
vehicle in any way? Yes___ No ___
Please list brand of cell phone: ________. *If you don't own a cell phone,
please explain:________________________
Hair color:
Females: [ ] Blonde [ ] Platinum Blonde
Teenagers: [ ] Red [ ] Orange [ ] Green [ ] Purple [ ] Blue
[ ] Skinhead
Please check activities you perform while driving: (Check all that apply)
[ ] Eating
[ ] Drinking Starbucks coffee
[ ] Applying make-up
[ ] Shaving (male or female)
[ ] Talking on cell phone
[ ] Applying cellulite treatment to thighs
[ ] Tanning
[ ] Snorting cocaine
[ ] Watching TV
[ ] Reading Daily Variety / Hollywood Reporter
[ ] Surfing the net via laptop
[ ] Discharging / Reloading firearms
If you are the victim of a car jacking, you should immediately:
a) Call the police to report the crime.
b) Call Channel 9 News to report the crime, then watch your car on
the news in a high speed chase.
c) Call your attorney and discuss lawsuit against cellular phone
company for 911 call not going through.
d) Call your therapist.
In the event of an earthquake, you should :
a) stop your car
b) keep driving and hope for the best.
c) immediately use your cell phone to call all loved ones.
d) pull out your video camera and obtain footage for Channel 9.
In the instance of rain, you should:
a) never drive over 5 MPH.
b) drive twice as fast as usual.
c) you're not sure what "rain" is.
Please indicate number of therapy sessions per week: ______.
Which of the following medications are you taking? (Check all that apply)
a) Prozac
b) Zovirax
c) Lithium
d) Zanax
e) Valium
f) Zoloft
g) Wellbutrin
h) All of the above
i) None of the above *If none of the above, please explain:
__________________.
Length of daily commute:
a) Less than 1 hour * If less than 1 hour, please
explain:____________________.
b) 1 hour
c) 2 hours
d) 3 hours
e) 4 hours or more
f) None * If none, please
explain:____________________.
When stopped by police, you should:
a) pull over and have your driver's license and insurance form
ready.
b) try to outrun them by driving the wrong way on the 405 Freeway.
c) have your video camera ready and provoke them to attack, thus
ensuring yourself of a hefty lawsuit.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 23:01:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: re. Fair valuation
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 20:31:08 +0100
Subject: Fair valuation
A fellow 100 enthusiast had agree to purchase from me
a brand new/old
stock original Lucas complete Horn and Trafficator
Assembly. .........I am not asking for the highest bid
because the sale is already agreed but we are trying
to set the most honest and fair price between fellow
100 owners.
We would appreciate any advice on what other owners
would consider a fair price.....
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 23:44:03 -0700
Subject: OK Dumb New Guy Question I have to Ask
Who gets credit for coining the "BJ9" reference?
It's a classic...
Jim '62 BT7 TriCarb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch)
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 23:43:45 -0700
Subject: British Car Week Report
Day Four,
The Minor starts to smell like petrol. I pull over and pop the bonnet. fuel
is leaking from every hose and hose clamp and I have a bunch cause I'm
running twin SUs and both a chrome & glass fuel filter and an adjustable
pressure regulator from the speed shop. Chevy technology that has somehow
overlapped into the Minor. I drive over to Peter's Marina Motors and leak
all over his forecourt. It seem that the MTBE fuel additive that the law
demands here in CA has eaten up all of my hoses. Pete says to ashcan the
regulator as we just put in one of those Moss solid state, original looking
pumps a few months ago and he says that it puts out the proper pressure. He
gives me some German fuel line that he says won't disolve in MTBE and a
knife. We are on the road in a short time, car is running fine.
I thought I would cheat a bit on my British car sightings as Peter's place
is usually full of Britiron. This time it was mostly Land Rovers as Pete
was preparing a few for a safari film that is being shot this month. He
also has a Sunbeam Talbot/Alpine getting a super quality restoration and an
XK140 Jag Roadster on the lift.
Back on the street I see a pretty blond girl in a BRG, rubber bumper MGB
getting a ticket from a bike Cop - what a drag! And on British Car Week!
Over on Venice Blvd, in front of the library, I spy two more - a red Jag
XK150 drophead coupe (stock looking but with a Ford V8/4-speed) and a
silver Jag XJS cabriolet with the removable "targa top" panel removed but
the folding rear portion in place. Also on Venice Blvd, a white Daimler
Limo out in front of a Public Storage facility. That's it! Nothing more
Rick Feibusch reporting from the beach area of Los Angeles.
*************************************************************
A collection of Prince of Darkness jokes:
Lucas denies having invented darkness. But they still claim "sudden,
unexpected darkness"
Lucas--inventor of the first intermittent wiper.
Lucas--inventor of the self-dimming headlamp.
The three-position Lucas switch--DIM, FLICKER and OFF. The other three
switch settings--SMOKE, SMOLDER and IGNITE.
The original anti-theft devices--Lucas Electric products.
"I've had a Lucas pacemaker for years and have never experienced any prob...
Did you hear about the Lucas powered torpedo? It sank.
It's not true that Lucas, in 1947, tried to get Parliament to repeal Ohm's
Law. They withdrew their efforts when they met too much resistance.
Did you hear the one about the guy that peeked into a Land Rover and asked
the owner "How can you tell one switch from another at night, since they
all look the same?" "He replied, it doesn't matter which one you use,
nothing happens!"
Back in the '70s Lucas decided to diversify its product line and began
manufacturing vacuum cleaners. It was the only product they offered which
didn't suck.
Quality Assurance phoned and advised the Engineering guy that they had
trouble with his design shorting out. So he made the wires longer.
Alexander Graham Bell invented the Telephone.
Thomas Edison invented the Light Bulb.
Joseph Lucas invented the Short Circuit.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 23:56:14 -0700
Subject: Fw: investment strategy
If you had bought $1000.00 worth of Any (US) Domestic Beer (the beer, not
the stock) one year ago, drank all the beer, then traded in the cans at a
redemption center for the nickel deposit, you would have $107.00.
Given the current conditions of the economy, the popular investment strategy
is to drink heavily and recycle.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch)
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 23:55:57 -0700
Subject: 500 Horse Hemi Bugeye!!!
Cheers,
Rick Feibusch
Venice, CA
http://www.ntahc.org/modifiedhealeys/Photos/126Marian/Marian.htm
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 22:54:42 +0100
Subject: Re: Mystery Healey Photo
All the best
>
>Please take a look at the photo of the red Healey
>Hundred at this URL and let me know if you know
>anything about it:
>
>http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/_wsn/page3.html
>
>Thanks in advance!
>
>Reid
>
>=====
>Reid Trummel
>Tampa, Florida
>100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
>http://www.healey.org
>http://www.healeyhighlights.com
--
John Harper
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew at texas.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 02:23:24 -0500
Subject: Re: "Holy Smoly"
I thought it was cool when he turned the key and then pushed the starter
button, just like the 100! What a growl!
Charlie Stewart
Georgetown, TX
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 09:51:42 +0100
Subject: Experience on triple HD8s
Cape International have recently produced a well-reviewed 3000 with triple 2"
SUs. Have a look at their web site for details - certain items such as the
cable throttle conversion could be of use to you!
http://www.cape-international.com/
Regards
Paul
Longbridge BN4 (with an antique-looking pair of H4s!)
-----------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 22:02:11 +0100
From: Peter Dzwig <pdzwig@summaventures.com>
Subject: Experience on triple HD8s
Listers,
I am thinking of putting my (rhd) car on triple 2" SUs. Its a BN4 with
3000 engine in it (roughly) and a bit more. I have checked the archive
but am unsure how people feel about HD8s in day-to-day use (I don't mean
as a daily driver!), tuning the set up and keeping it tuned. Has anyone
out there got any similar observations for triple HD6s?
Thanks,
Peter Dzwig
------------------------------
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 06:44:37 -0700
Subject: Re: "Holy Smoly"
And just like the Honda S2000!
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 06:52:29 -0700
Subject: Re: 500 Horse Hemi Bugeye!!!
Richard Feibusch wrote:
> This is amazing!!! Check it out!!!!!!!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Rick Feibusch
> Venice, CA
>
> http://www.ntahc.org/modifiedhealeys/Photos/126Marian/Marian.htm
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 06:59:27 -0700
Subject: Re: re. Fair valuation
By the way, how much do you want for your Land Rover?
Bob Denton
joe mulqueen wrote:
> Just sell it for what sounds right to your heart.
> Solicitating for the "market value" of a part sure
> dampens my old car enthusiasm. I like the "give a
> deal, get a deal" approach. It usually works for me.
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
> '56 MGA
> '67 Land Rover SIIA 109 Station Wagon
> '82 XJ6
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 04:11:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 500 Horse Hemi Bugeye!!!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> Richard Feibusch wrote:
>
> > This is amazing!!! Check it out!!!!!!!
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Rick Feibusch
> > Venice, CA
> >
> >
>
http://www.ntahc.org/modifiedhealeys/Photos/126Marian/Marian.htm
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 09:13:24 -0400
Subject: RE: aluminum body work
Thanks
Fred
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Scheuble, Fred
> Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 7:32 AM
> To: 'Healeys (E-mail)
> Subject: aluminum body work
>
> Hi,
> I am about to undertake restoring the rear shroud of my BN7. I have
> years of experience of doing body / lead work on steel panels but none
> working with aluminum. The shroud that butts up against the door jam is
> separated from the rear fender and bead resulting from corrosion. Would
> someone please explain to me the proper method of welding the aluminum and
> metal prep for (Bondo...ughhhh or is there something better?). I would
> greatly appreciated it.
>
>
> Fred
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 09:34:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Experience on triple HD8s
Just my $.02
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Dzwig" <pdzwig@summaventures.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 5:02 PM
Subject: Experience on triple HD8s
> Listers,
>
> I am thinking of putting my (rhd) car on triple 2" SUs. Its a BN4 with
> 3000 engine in it (roughly) and a bit more. I have checked the archive
> but am unsure how people feel about HD8s in day-to-day use(I don't mean
> as a daily driver!), tuning the set up and keeping it tuned. Has anyone
> out there got any similar observations for triple HD6s?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Peter Dzwig
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Biloselhir at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 10:03:01 EDT
Subject: Rear axle and frame clearance
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete at catey.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 17:28:37 +0200
Subject: Another 100S for sale in Germany
There is another 100S for sale in Germany. Could be interesting to make a
Ferraristi happy
http://www.carpoint.de/germansite/angebote/austin.html
Another 100S for sale. Price mentioned. No further details.
3801 body Number
In 1992 Body-off Restoration.
Healey in heart and soul
Regards,
Bruno Verstraete
Switzerland
BJ8 1966
BN1 Coupe 1954
bruno.verstraete@catey.com <mailto:bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From rfrisby <rfrisby at micron.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 09:47:27 -0600
Subject: bearing inspection (was "inner outer")
The thing about inspecting rolling-element bearings is knowing what
to look for in the way of "wear". The usual failure mechanism is a bit
unusual, and not intuitively obvious. Surface wear isn't usually the
problem. Engineering stress analysis shows that the highest stresses are
usually shear stresses a little bit BELOW the surface. Ultimately, due to
metal fatigue, this results in localized separation of a thin layer from the
main piece (ball, roller, race, whatever). This then breaks out, leaving a
pit. Enough of these, and the bearing get noticeably "rough". This pitting
will normally appear in the rolling element before it does in the races, but
of course everything must be inspected. So put on your reading glasses, get
a magnifying glass, and have a look. Obviously if you see ANY evidence of
pitting or other problems, a replacement is in order.
Bob Frisby
'62 BT7 tricarb
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Re: inner outer
Michael,
Clever solution .. I like it!
It turns out that I might not need to remove the race after all if I end up
buying new bearings and installing them in the new hubs. The bearings look
fine, although it's probably prudent to replace them. I never know how to
check bearing except to clean them out, look at them closely and see if
everything is turning smoothly. When in doubt, throw them out?
Regards,
John
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 08:44:24 -0700
Subject: Re: OK Dumb New Guy Question I have to Ask
Not at all a dumb question - you probably started another long thread here!
I can remember using using the term 'BJ9' back in the early 70's - right
around the time that most of the Healey clubs were first being established.
This was here in B.C. It will be interesting if anyone on this list can
tell us definitively where it was first used, and who first used it!
Got to go now - have to empty and re-cycle some beer cans. Got to stay
ahead of the game!
Cheers,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb - Tahoe car
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Hart" <jgh3rd@jps.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 11:44 PM
Subject: OK Dumb New Guy Question I have to Ask
The recent BMW/AH thread makes me wonder....
Who gets credit for coining the "BJ9" reference?
It's a classic...
Jim '62 BT7 TriCarb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bellino <tickettoride99_2000 at yahoo.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 09:00:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Md British car week 05/26/02
Also, for the Carisle Import show, some photos of the vendors.
Best regards, Pete Groh, Ellicott City, MD USA
P. S. Hope the slide show works.
British Car Week
Carisle Import Show, 2002
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Brian Mix <brianmix at cox.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 09:14:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Mystery Healey Photo
>From the look of the color tones I would say this is a "colorized" B&W photo.
This happened a lot in the 40's and 50's. A color magazine would ask an artist
to
color a B&W photo to look good in the Mag, and of course the artist was given no
reference for what color the car was. In fact they still do this today. Ever
wonder how Road and Track got all yellow cars for their test drives. They didn't
they hire guys like me to change the color.
The "bigger" feature on your web page isn't working but if you could e-mail me
the best scan you have I can verify my suspicions.
Brian
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
John Harper wrote:
> For what it is worth I would like to question the date of 1954. The
> other Austin on the stand is an A40 Somerset Coupe. These were produced
> between March 1952 and August 1954. It seems a little strange that this
> should appear in a Motor Show only about 3 months prior to its
> production ceasing. The new more modern shaped A40 Cambridge started
> production in July 1954 and no doubt prototypes were available in May
> 1954 to be displayed in a major motor show.
>
> All the best
> >
> >Please take a look at the photo of the red Healey
> >Hundred at this URL and let me know if you know
> >anything about it:
> >
> >http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/_wsn/page3.html
> >
> >Thanks in advance!
> >
> >Reid
> >
> >=====
> >Reid Trummel
> >Tampa, Florida
> >100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
> >http://www.healey.org
> >http://www.healeyhighlights.com
>
> --
> John Harper
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bellino <tickettoride99_2000 at yahoo.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 09:29:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: posting MD pictures, add'l info British Car week
Best regards, Pete Groh, Ellicott City, MD USA
British Car Week
http://tm0.com/forbes/sbct.cgi?s=224453395&i=529578&m=1&d=2707600
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jim Morrison <nljm at shaw.ca>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 10:38:24 -0700
Subject: RE: OK Dumb New Guy Question I have to Ask
Cheers,
Jim Morrison
North Vancouver, BC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of James Hart
Sent: 29-May-02 11:44 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: OK Dumb New Guy Question I have to Ask
The recent BMW/AH thread makes me wonder....
Who gets credit for coining the "BJ9" reference?
It's a classic...
Jim '62 BT7 TriCarb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Robert J. Denton/Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 13:40:22 -0700
Subject: Do you want to see the hat design for Tahoe?
The hat is $10.00 plus $3.50 shipping via express mail (USA and Canada
only, please.)
Payment instructions will be included with the photo.
Bob Denton
Auburn Design Group.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 11:53:04 -0600
Subject: Re: Wanted to buy blue Healey
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "C. Hall" <hallc@vianet.on.ca>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 7:15 PM
Subject: Wanted to buy blue Healey
> To listers in Ontario and Quebec
>
> Looking to buy a 3000 Healey BN7, BT7, BJ7 or BJ8.
> Colour to be Healey blue and a recent quality restoration.
>
> Replies to hallc@vianet.on.ca
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charles Hall
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 12:22:25 -0700
Subject: members, mechanics in Kirkland, Washington area
Ronald Davies, DDS
Anesthesiology for Dentistry
www.DentalAnesthesia.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 13:06:41 -0700
Subject: Re: members, mechanics in Kirkland, Washington area
Best guy I know of in the Seattle area is Tom Eller - he knows Healeys, as
well as the other Brit sports cars. I don't have any information on him -
you'll have to look it up.
Maybe other listers in the Seattle area could offer more help.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "rdavies" <rdavies@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 12:22 PM
Subject: members, mechanics in Kirkland, Washington area
Hi gang,
Does anyone know of a member/mechanic who can go assess a car for me in
Kirkland, Washington?
Thanks
Ron
Ronald Davies, DDS
Anesthesiology for Dentistry
www.DentalAnesthesia.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 13:01:25 -0700
Subject: Re: Rear axle and frame clearance
I'm going to have my BT7 on an alignment rack tomorrow morning. I'll try to
remember to have a look at the clearance between the axle housing and the
frame pads and get back to you. It sounds to me that you have a problem -
if it's put together right, the springs sound way to stiff.
Actually, the car would be 'topping out' on bumps with this problem.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <Biloselhir@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 7:03 AM
Subject: Rear axle and frame clearance
In the process of putting my BN4 back together and have a question. Before
starting total restoration had replaced the rear springs, etc. After this
was first done the clearance was small between the axle and the pads on the
frame (maybe 1/4" or so). Then after a couple of months it got better and
stopped "bottoming out" on bumps.
Well, now after taking car completely apart and now getting it back
together,
the axle rests on the pads, but don't have alot hung on the car yet--no
fenders, no interior, etc.... (almost ready to test drive before hanging
body
parts for final fit before painting them). While car was ona drive-on lift
two of us hung on the frame (about 400# total) and it bearly separated the
axle from the pad on the frame. Does this sound OK? Everything seems to be
put together OK Exept the fiber pads that are supposed to be on top of the
axle under the spring are missing. Also wonder if that will cause any
problems?
Thanks,
Bill 59BN4
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 13:21:26 -0700
Subject: Bay Area short trippers?
Bill Katz
'67 BJ8 (probably with a for-sale sign on it at Tahoe!)
'94 325is
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from the Oakland Hills............ Wanna caravan, anyone?
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 14:09:09 -0700
Subject: Re: Bay Area short trippers?
> Well I've managed to convince myself that it's ok to borrow against the
> house to meet the bills, so I'm going to Tahoe. I'm planning to drive up
> Sunday and return on Tuesday. Just wondering when most folks around here
> are leaving, and from where.
>
>
>
> Bill Katz
> '67 BJ8 (probably with a for-sale sign on it at Tahoe!)
> '94 325is
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 16:12:06 -0500
Subject: Fw: 100-4 pictures
WST
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson@thicko.com>
To: "Wm. Severin 'Flounder" Thompson" <wsthompson@thicko.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 3:53 PM
Subject: 100-4 pictures
> To all,
>
> Yes, there are a lot of you interested in the 100-4s. I have BCC'd all of
> you.
>
> I do have a "firm" offer in hand (sight unseen, based on description only)
> for #2 and #3, yet I'm not comfortable commiting to this. I believe honest
> differences of opinion happen, and when money's involved, better for all
to
> see what they're getting first.
>
> Many of you have indicated you're interested in buying all 3 (which is my
> preference).
>
> Some are just interested in #1.
>
> Also, the gentlemen with the firm offer for #2 & #3 really only wants #2,
> and now a subsequent inquiry has come in for #3 only.
>
> In order for this not to be a complete clusterfuck, I want to be clear
about
> my intentions here. Over the years, I've been jerked around by sellers
> tossing items on the list like chum to sharks.. commiting to a sale, then
> coming back and saying someone outbid me. I don't want to do this. I've
> priced things fairly, and will not entertain lower offers. If I was in
this
> to jack around, I'd have just put it all on E-Bay to start with.
>
> If I sell them seperately, I will expect more "per" than the "3 piece"
> price... not a lot more, but enough to deal with the additional "cocking
> around" (as Roger Menadue would say...).
>
> So, if any of you (after seeing photos) make a commitment (let's define
> commitment here... either pay for it by wiring funds, paying via Paypal,
> place a large non-refundable deposit, or walk up to the house with wads of
> "dead Presidents" are interested in all 3 or #1 only, I will then honor
the
> offer for #2 & #3, or if the guy'd rather, just sell him #2 which was his
> original intention. (Is this making your head hurt as much as mine?)
>
> So, today, I have dug #1 out of the garage... I'm relieving it of the
> majority of fossilized mouse shit, and am taking some detailed pictures. I
> will hope to have the same done for # 3 by today as well. #2 is not as
easy
> to get to (in a barn 10 miles away). But, I have the pictures of when we
> found it in a barn a number of years ago, so that should be sufficient to
> give all an idea what we're talking about.
>
> I will forward the collection of pictures to all BCC'd on this list, and
> also post them to a public website. As it stands, I believe the cars could
> be inspected here in IL either Sat. afternoon, or Sunday afternoon.
>
> I expect some of you will be happy about this, and I expect some won't,
but
> we're all big boys here (some of us bigger than others, I suspect...)
>
> Pics to follow, hopefully tonight.
>
> WST
>
Original post concerning descriptions...
I'm located an hour north of Chicago. Delivery (within reason) is possible.
All 3 100-4s are very early BN1's.
One car is originally a Spruce Green car, a very nice rare color. It's early
enough to have an alloy bonnet, an "Austin of England" trunk insignia, and
the plastic (maybe bakelite?) tags in the interior footwell.
It was driven to a local body shop for some work and paint, and during that
time the owner passed away (hey, some restorations take a lifetime...). The
car sat in the shed of the body shop, for a couple of years, and I purchased
it from the widow 12-14 years ago. It's had some rust repair done (in steel)
but overall was a very solid car to start with. Fenders are unattached, but
all drivetrain is still in place. Frame is very good on this car.
I've never attempted to start the car. "Supposedly" the owner was an old
mechanic, and had rebuilt the engine and front end, but I have no proof of
that. I took it and all of it's parts, and tucked it away in my gargage many
years ago with the intention of doing a concours street restoration on it.
There is title for this car.
The second car is interesting as well... it is one of only 2 orginal
non-metallic Healey blue cars. Again a very early car. The color is present
under the cockpit surrounds, well preserved. It's a blueish gray color. I've
only seen one other that color in almost 30 years of Healey ownership. This
car is rust free, found in a barn nearly 20 years ago. Frame is excellent.
(It was found with all sorts of other automotive treasures... a TD, a TR3, a
Willys coupe, an early Pontiac 3 duece manifold & carbs, and all sorts of
other cool shit.)
Sometime, probably still back in the 50's, someone started to make a "Nasty
Boy" V8 conversion, as there are '55 Chevy engine mounts in place (only one
year for that style of mount, I think). Some of the foot wall area, and
portions of the front cowl were cut. This body has some dents and wear from
being walked around (or on) for many years, but, as I said, it's not rusty.
No interior. It rolls (has a BN2 rear end under it). There is no title for
this car. It was our intention to make either an Austin powered vintage race
car, or a modified 283 powered vintage racer.
Number three is a completely rotted, but fairly complete parts car (again
early) BN1. It has complete original drive train, and also I have some other
spares with it. The frame is (very) shot on this car. It was originally red,
and has a title.
I'll have digital pictures available soon, and will entertain offers before
it all ends up on Ebay.
WST
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 16:57:19 -0500
Subject: Re: aluminum body work
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Bill Wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 19:36:12 -0400
Subject: 100S "For Sale"
3801 is really just a 100S engine 1B222730 which came in Alan Alfano's black
and pink 100-4 from California. It was removed and stored by Paul Haus and me
for many years.
In 1989, I sold the motor to Dick Hansen in Illinois, who had Tom Kovacs
recreate a 100S from a 100-4 chassis. When Dick sold it, it went to
Barret-Jackson where I revealed to Barret-Jackson of its true identity, so
they threw it out of the auction, but it was "sold" in the parking-lot to some
poor person.
I suppose that "poor person" is now selling 3801 as a true 100S to make his
money back on some other unsuspecting buyer.
How the wheels turn in the World.
Bill Wood
3501, 3504. 3505, 3507, 3605, 3607, 3608, 3901
Parts of 3510 and 3801
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 19:54:38 -0400
Subject: Country Stickers Wanter--very little Healey content
I unfortunately missed 3 countries and was wondering of any of our European
listers would try to get them for me and send to me. I need The
Netherlands, Belgium and Luxembourg.
Martin----I know you are in Germany, but maybe you know of a place to get
these. My sincere appreciation to anyone who can help. Contact me direct
and I'll send address.
Regards
Tom
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 19:57:31 EDT
Subject: Re: Country Stickers Wanter--very little Healey content
In a message dated 5/30/02 15:50:11, tfelts@prodigy.net writes:
<< When I was in Europe with the Healey last year I collected the small
peel-off stickers with the country name on them and put them on the rear
bumper----I know--tacky, but I like it.
I unfortunately missed 3 countries and was wondering of any of our European
listers would try to get them for me and send to me. I need The
Netherlands, Belgium and Luxembourg.
Martin----I know you are in Germany, but maybe you know of a place to get
these. My sincere appreciation to anyone who can help. Contact me direct
and I'll send address.
Regards
Tom >>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Pollock <wjpollock at erols.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 20:24:15 -0400
Subject: [Fwd: austin healey]
Bill Pollock
Return-Path: <CaptainK2@aol.com>
Received: from mx02.mrf.mail.rcn.net ([207.172.4.51] [207.172.4.51]) by
mta04.mrf.mail.rcn.net with ESMTP id
<20020530011432.JZMH338.mta04.mrf.mail.rcn.net@mx02.mrf.mail.rcn.net>;
Wed, 29 May 2002 21:14:32 -0400
Received: from imo-r04.mx.aol.com ([152.163.225.100]) by
mx02.mrf.mail.rcn.net with esmtp (Exim 3.35 #5) id 17DEWO-0003ED-00
for wjpollock@erols.com; Wed, 29 May 2002 21:14:32 -0400
Received: from CaptainK2@aol.com by imo-r04.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v32.5.)
id n.16d.e4bf96d (4068) for <wjpollock@erols.com>; Wed, 29 May 2002
21:14:27 -0400 (EDT)
From: CaptainK2@aol.com
Message-ID: <16d.e4bf96d.2a26d6f3@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 21:14:27 EDT
Subject: austin healey
To: wjpollock@erols.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 7.0 for Windows US sub 10507
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/alternative by demime 0.97c
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain
Subj: Austin Healey
Date: 5/29/2002 8:09:42 PM Eastern Standard Time
From: <A HREF="mailto:CaptainK2";>CaptainK2</A>
To: <A HREF="mailto:JCZimme";>JCZimme</A>
Hello,
You don't know me but I found your name in the Austin Healey Resource book.
I also noticed that you live in CT, and I'm looking for help. Now that my
kid is out of college I am looking for a Healey. I have always wanted one,
and now i can afford one I'm especially interested. I'm very mechanically
inclined, so I am looking for one to restore myself. The problem is I can't
find one, so I'm looking for one here. I'm not having any luck so I decided
to get help from the club. Is there anyplace I can go or look for one?
Also, is it considered rude to call members from the resource book?
Thanks for your help,
Keith Faulkner
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 20:42:51 -0400
Subject: Re: investment strategy
"People who don't drink have a real problem; when they get up in the
morning, that's as good as they are going to feel all day!" (Frank Sinatra,
'64)
Charley
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 10:48:06 +1000
Subject: Re: aluminum body work
> Scheuble, Fred wrote:
> >
> > somebody please tell me what putty people are using to do AL repair.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Fred
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Scheuble, Fred
> > > Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 7:32 AM
> > > To: 'Healeys (E-mail)
> > > Subject: aluminum body work
> > >
> > > Hi,
> > > I am about to undertake restoring the rear shroud of my BN7. I have
> > > years of experience of doing body / lead work on steel panels but none
> > > working with aluminum. The shroud that butts up against the door jam is
> > > separated from the rear fender and bead resulting from corrosion. Would
> > > someone please explain to me the proper method of welding the aluminum
>and
> > > metal prep for (Bondo...ughhhh or is there something better?). I would
> > > greatly appreciated it.
> > >
> > >
> > > Fred
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 20:55:29 -0400
Subject: K/O procedures?
Moss, in its Issue 1, 2002 catalog, on page 213, says that BMC issued a
service bulletin that says the wheels should be off the ground while
hammering a k/o either on or off. The 1967 Driver's Handbook owner's manual,
on page 28, agrees, saying to "...always jack up a wheel before using the
hammer."
However, on the very next page, the manual instructs: "...the knockon type
hub cap concerned should be loosened by using a mallet on the cap wings
before the car is jacked up."
Anyone care to comment on what *is* the correct procedure, and why?
== Alex in Kennebunk, Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 18:15:48 -0700
Subject: Healey accident in the Bay Area today
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 18:45:49 -0700
Subject: Re: members, mechanics in Kirkland, Washington area
John Snyder
----------
> From: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
> To: rdavies <rdavies@cox.net>
> Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: members, mechanics in Kirkland, Washington area
> Date: Thursday, May 30, 2002 1:06 PM
>
> Ron:
>
> Best guy I know of in the Seattle area is Tom Eller - he knows Healeys,
as
> well as the other Brit sports cars. I don't have any information on him
-
> you'll have to look it up.
>
> Maybe other listers in the Seattle area could offer more help.
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B.C. Canada
> '62 BT7 tri-carb
> '67 BJ8
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "rdavies" <rdavies@cox.net>
> To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 12:22 PM
> Subject: members, mechanics in Kirkland, Washington area
>
>
> Hi gang,
> Does anyone know of a member/mechanic who can go assess a car for me in
> Kirkland, Washington?
> Thanks
> Ron
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Dr. Richard Welser" <drduffy at earthlink.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 22:04:49 -0400
Subject: Sprite for sale
Has to go as I am moving now. Certainly is worth the $300 I am asking
for it. Chassis has been sandblasted (low velocity) and there is rust in
predictable places but the chassis is solid. Engine ran well before
project began.
thanks to the list for letting me post this.
Richard Welser
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 19:12:15 -0700
Subject: Re: K/O procedures?
bk
---------------------
At 05:55 PM 5/30/2002, you wrote:
>Can anyone shed light on the discrepancy between my owner's manual for a BJ8
>and Moss Motors' description of how to remove a knockoff hub?
>
>Moss, in its Issue 1, 2002 catalog, on page 213, says that BMC issued a
>service bulletin that says the wheels should be off the ground while
>hammering a k/o either on or off. The 1967 Driver's Handbook owner's manual,
>on page 28, agrees, saying to "...always jack up a wheel before using the
>hammer."
>
>However, on the very next page, the manual instructs: "...the knockon type
>hub cap concerned should be loosened by using a mallet on the cap wings
>before the car is jacked up."
>
>Anyone care to comment on what *is* the correct procedure, and why?
>
>== Alex in Kennebunk, Maine
> 1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Fred "Ooman" <KingPin at cosmo.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 19:24:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Windshield Woes
Do I need to take apart the frame elements to replace the rubber strip?
If so, what is the disassembly process?
If so, will I also need to replace the rubber strip surrounding the glass?
Is this a difficult job?
Since I may have everything apart anyway, can anyone recommend a good place in
Southern California where I can have the windshield frame re-chromed?
Two small, odd shaped, rubber plugs fell out of the frame towards the ends,
what are they and where can I find replacements?
Will I need any sealent between the rubber strip and the body?
Any tips and info on a windshield rehab are most appreciated.
Thanks!
'67 BJ8
_____________________________________________________________
Get email for your site ---> http://mail.cosmo.com
_____________________________________________________________
Promote your group and strengthen ties to your members with email@yourgroup.org
by Everyone.net http://www.everyone.net/?btn=tag
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 19:25:43 -0700
Subject: Re: K/O procedures?
my humble 0.02,
Jim '62 BT7 TriCarb
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: "Alex" <alexmm@adelphia.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 7:12 PM
Subject: Re: K/O procedures?
> I'd say that you need to leave the wheel on the ground just until you
break
> the knockoff loose. But you need to have the wheel off the ground to
assure
> the wheel is properly centered on the hub while it is tightened.
>
> bk
> ---------------------
> At 05:55 PM 5/30/2002, you wrote:
> >Can anyone shed light on the discrepancy between my owner's manual for a
BJ8
> >and Moss Motors' description of how to remove a knockoff hub?
> >
> >Moss, in its Issue 1, 2002 catalog, on page 213, says that BMC issued a
> >service bulletin that says the wheels should be off the ground while
> >hammering a k/o either on or off. The 1967 Driver's Handbook owner's
manual,
> >on page 28, agrees, saying to "...always jack up a wheel before using the
> >hammer."
> >
> >However, on the very next page, the manual instructs: "...the knockon
type
> >hub cap concerned should be loosened by using a mallet on the cap wings
> >before the car is jacked up."
> >
> >Anyone care to comment on what *is* the correct procedure, and why?
> >
> >== Alex in Kennebunk, Maine
> > 1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 21:30:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Healey accident in the Bay Area today - more info
Looks like everyone will survive this, but Deiter
might have some back problems:
http://abclocal.go.com/kgo/news/053002_nw_marin_car_rescue.html
Apparently he was driving on "scenic Conzelman Road
overlooking the Golden Gate Bridge in the Marin
headlands"
I've driven on this stretch of road in my BJ8 probably
over 300 times. I think the only way this could have
happened if there was a brake failure or Deiter was
driving a little fast & got a flat - its a pretty wide
road, well marked, and speed limit is ony 25... so
lots of time to recover, brake failure excepted. Hand
brake wouldn't stop a healey going down this road
unless it was in perfect operating condition (very
steep in places). Make sure your e brake is in good
operating condition
Last time I heard about a car going off the cliff here
was when a guy was taking pictures of his new 911
convertible (with the GG bridge behind) but forgot to
set the ebrake, and the thing went over the side. I
heard the park service charged him $50,000 to get a
helicopter to get the thing out of the gulley. As an
injury accident I'm sure Deiter won't be charged...
wish him well, Do you have his address? I'll send him
get well flowers.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- coop1 <coop1@dnai.com> wrote:
> Just heard on the 6 oclock news that a '67 Healey
> owned by Dieter Soltis of
> Mill Valley, CA was involved in a serious flipover
> accident today in the SF
> Bay Area. The driver (Soltis) and his companion were
> rushed to the hospital
> and are both in serious condition. Dieter is a
> member of the Austin Healey
> Club USA. I don't know him but I found him in the
> club directory. My best
> wishes go out to him and Robert Cates. Just thought
> anyone out there who
> knows Mr. Soltis would want to know...... ...
> Randy Harris
> '66 BJ8
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 21:31:36 -0700
Subject: Healeys For Sale Site
http://www.britishusedcars.com/austinhealey1.html
I especially liked the "72 Austin-Healey Mini Cooper" (sic :)
Anyway, I have no prurient interest in these cars or this site, just thought
I'd pass it along.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 21:43:34 -0700
Subject: Cool BritCar Site
They have some cool stuff, and be sure to check out the QuickTime
video of a show a local TV station did on them and Britcars in general
(bottom left of the page) ... pretty cool.
http://www.britishmiles.com/
No commercial interest, just a satisfied customer (if the speedo gets
here in time and is serviceable).
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 22:01:40 -0700
Subject: Re: Healeys For Sale Site
----------------
At 09:31 PM 5/30/2002, you wrote:
>Doing a web search for a part I came across a site with several Healeys
>for sale:
>
>http://www.britishusedcars.com/austinhealey1.html
>
>I especially liked the "72 Austin-Healey Mini Cooper" (sic :)
>
>Anyway, I have no prurient interest in these cars or this site, just thought
>I'd pass it along.
>
>Bob
>*****************************************************
>Bob
>Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
>San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
>`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
>*****************************************************
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch)
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 22:29:47 -0700
Subject: British Car Week Report
Took my '59 Minor ragtop to Cruise Night at Teddy's in West LA - only
British car there - only two other sightings: A REALLY nice Jag 420 saloon,
black/w chrome wire wheels parked on a residential street in Santa Monica
and one of those later model Mini 1000s with the high bumpers and strange
overiders, LHD (we call them "Canadian Minis" as that's where most of them
came from) parked in front of an art supply store.
Oh well!!!!!!
Cheers,
Rick in Venice
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 03:08:23 EDT
Subject: Re: All British Car Day
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Josef.Eckert at t-mobile.de
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: 31 May 2002 07:21:36 +0000
Subject: Re: "Holy Smoly"
Cheers
Josef Eckert
Germany
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Herman <herman at capitalhealeys.org>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 09:21:07 -0400
Subject: Need Trunk interior piece
I am in search of the Amacord trunk lining piece that runs along the
rear of the trunk, closest to the bumper. It is for my BJ8, but I
believe that it is the same for any 2+2 car. Please contact me off
the list if you have one to sell or donate in good condition.
TIA.
Herman
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 09:45:48 -0400
Subject: RE: Healeys For Sale Site
Oh well, I'll get to them someday. Right now I'm having a ball driving it.
Alex in Kennebunk, Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Bill Katz
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2002 1:02 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Healeys For Sale Site
Check some of the pictures, close to 1/2 have the side "spears" on
backwards.
----------------
At 09:31 PM 5/30/2002, you wrote:
>Doing a web search for a part I came across a site with several Healeys
>for sale:
>
>http://www.britishusedcars.com/austinhealey1.html
>
>I especially liked the "72 Austin-Healey Mini Cooper" (sic :)
>
>Anyway, I have no prurient interest in these cars or this site, just
thought
>I'd pass it along.
>
>Bob
>*****************************************************
>Bob
>Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
>San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
>`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
>*****************************************************
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From dwflagg at juno.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 09:52:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Air Cleaner
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 09:56:51 -0400
Subject: Re: K/O procedures?
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
>>This seems intuitive to me as with a lugnut mounted wheel--initial
loosening, final tightening with wheel on ground, all interim activity with
car in air for centering and safety.
my humble 0.02,
Jim '62 BT7 TriCarb
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: "Alex" <alexmm@adelphia.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 7:12 PM
Subject: Re: K/O procedures?
> I'd say that you need to leave the wheel on the ground just until you
break
> the knockoff loose. But you need to have the wheel off the ground to
assure
> the wheel is properly centered on the hub while it is tightened.
>
> bk
<<
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 09:57:07 -0400
Subject: Re: K/O procedures?
In the end, I really don't think it matters much. It's easy to do either
way. If concerned, jack it up first.
Dave Masucci
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Hart" <jgh3rd@jps.net>
To: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>; "Alex" <alexmm@adelphia.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 10:25 PM
Subject: Re: K/O procedures?
> This seems intuitive to me as with a lugnut mounted wheel--initial
> loosening, final tightening with wheel on ground, all interim activity
with
> car in air for centering and safety.
>
> my humble 0.02,
>
> Jim '62 BT7 TriCarb
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
> To: "Alex" <alexmm@adelphia.net>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 7:12 PM
> Subject: Re: K/O procedures?
>
>
> > I'd say that you need to leave the wheel on the ground just until you
> break
> > the knockoff loose. But you need to have the wheel off the ground to
> assure
> > the wheel is properly centered on the hub while it is tightened.
> >
> > bk
> > ---------------------
> > At 05:55 PM 5/30/2002, you wrote:
> > >Can anyone shed light on the discrepancy between my owner's manual for
a
> BJ8
> > >and Moss Motors' description of how to remove a knockoff hub?
> > >
> > >Moss, in its Issue 1, 2002 catalog, on page 213, says that BMC issued a
> > >service bulletin that says the wheels should be off the ground while
> > >hammering a k/o either on or off. The 1967 Driver's Handbook owner's
> manual,
> > >on page 28, agrees, saying to "...always jack up a wheel before using
the
> > >hammer."
> > >
> > >However, on the very next page, the manual instructs: "...the knockon
> type
> > >hub cap concerned should be loosened by using a mallet on the cap wings
> > >before the car is jacked up."
> > >
> > >Anyone care to comment on what *is* the correct procedure, and why?
> > >
> > >== Alex in Kennebunk, Maine
> > > 1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From dwflagg at juno.com
From: healey27@mindspring.com
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 09:59:05 -0400
Subject: Re:Amacord
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de [mailto:Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de]
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 10:03:41 -0400
Subject: RE: "Holy Smoly"
... especially as the MGF handles better than the Z3 ... but the target
markets are different, the MGF competes in the Mazda Miata space, whereas
the BMW Z3 is further up market. I don't buy this thinking, I'm sure there
were plans considered for an Austin-Healey (60,000+ sales in the States from
1953-1967, plus the success of retro's such as Mini, Beetle, Thunderbird, PT
Cruiser, tell me BMW is wrong and they could have done well with an AH).
Andy
BMW M5
Austin Healey BJ8
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de [mailto:Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de]
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 00:34:33 +1000
Subject: Re: K/O procedures?
< 0 >
rather than verical - ie:
/\
0
\/
and you should be parallel to the car when swinging the hammer - never
facing the wheel (less chance of hitting anything else - like a
fender/guard).
Personally - I 'release' the knock off with the wheel on the ground - i.e.
roll it along until the knock off is < 0 > - smack 'em till they 'move' -
then go to the next one - repeat same procedure - then once they are all
released - I then jack the car up and undo the wheels the rest of the way.
Then - as the workshop manual says - 'Installation is pretty much a reversal
of the above procedure".....
BTW I have minilites - not spokes - but all wheels/suspension are better
designed to cope with vertical force - not horzontal force.
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Masucci" <david_m@radiantsoundworks.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2002 11:57 PM
Subject: Re: K/O procedures?
> The theoretical reason for not hitting the knock-off with the wheel on the
> ground is due to the stress that puts on the spokes. With the wheel up in
> the air, the spokes don't take as much of a hit...as the wheel is free to
> rebound away from the blow. On the ground, the tire is held fast. I disput
> this however. I can't believe that these forces are any more severe than
> normal accelerating, and braking.
>
> In the end, I really don't think it matters much. It's easy to do either
> way. If concerned, jack it up first.
>
> Dave Masucci
> BJ8
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "James Hart" <jgh3rd@jps.net>
> To: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>; "Alex" <alexmm@adelphia.net>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 10:25 PM
> Subject: Re: K/O procedures?
>
>
> > This seems intuitive to me as with a lugnut mounted wheel--initial
> > loosening, final tightening with wheel on ground, all interim activity
> with
> > car in air for centering and safety.
> >
> > my humble 0.02,
> >
> > Jim '62 BT7 TriCarb
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
> > To: "Alex" <alexmm@adelphia.net>
> > Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 7:12 PM
> > Subject: Re: K/O procedures?
> >
> >
> > > I'd say that you need to leave the wheel on the ground just until you
> > break
> > > the knockoff loose. But you need to have the wheel off the ground to
> > assure
> > > the wheel is properly centered on the hub while it is tightened.
> > >
> > > bk
> > > ---------------------
> > > At 05:55 PM 5/30/2002, you wrote:
> > > >Can anyone shed light on the discrepancy between my owner's manual
for
> a
> > BJ8
> > > >and Moss Motors' description of how to remove a knockoff hub?
> > > >
> > > >Moss, in its Issue 1, 2002 catalog, on page 213, says that BMC issued
a
> > > >service bulletin that says the wheels should be off the ground while
> > > >hammering a k/o either on or off. The 1967 Driver's Handbook owner's
> > manual,
> > > >on page 28, agrees, saying to "...always jack up a wheel before using
> the
> > > >hammer."
> > > >
> > > >However, on the very next page, the manual instructs: "...the knockon
> > type
> > > >hub cap concerned should be loosened by using a mallet on the cap
wings
> > > >before the car is jacked up."
> > > >
> > > >Anyone care to comment on what *is* the correct procedure, and why?
> > > >
> > > >== Alex in Kennebunk, Maine
> > > > 1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From michaelwilliams at attbi.com
From: Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de [mailto:Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de]
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 14:45:50 +0000
Subject: BN1 Handbrake Installation
I just received my new handbrake cable today. The old
one snapped right at the handle attachment point. Does
anyone have any words of advice on how to go about
installing it? I have the trans tunnel off already
(troubleshooting non-operative OD) but it looks pretty
tight in there. Is it required to detach the drive
shaft and drop it out of the way? (scary) Detailed
instructions for a frightened rookie are appreciated.
--Michael Williams
'55 BN1
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de [mailto:Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de]
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 15:30:24 +0000
Subject: Re: Cool BritCar Site
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de [mailto:Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de]
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 11:49:43 EDT
Subject: detaching driveline
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de [mailto:Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de]
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 12:32:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey accident in the Bay Area today
Riders Survive Car Plunging Off Cliff
May 30, 2002
By THE ASSOCIATED PRESS
Filed at 11:49 p.m. ET
SAUSALITO, Calif. (AP) -- Two men survived a wild ride when
their 1967 Austin Healey convertible careened off a cliff
Thursday overlooking the Golden Gate Bridge and burst into
flames.
Dieter Soltis, who was driving, was hospitalized in stable
condition with a back injury; Robert Cates was listed as
fair.
The car sped off the side of the road, down a 50-foot cliff
and crashed into several eucalyptus trees, according to
Presidio Park police. The car then caught fire. It wasn't
immediately clear what caused the car to veer off the road.
http://www.nytimes.com/aponline/national/AP-BRF-Car-Off-Cliff.html?ex=102386
5469&ei=1&en=6ec21786ae797605
----- Original Message -----
From: "coop1" <coop1@dnai.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 8:15 PM
Subject: Healey accident in the Bay Area today
> Just heard on the 6 oclock news that a '67 Healey owned by Dieter Soltis
of
> Mill Valley, CA was involved in a serious flipover accident today in the
SF
> Bay Area. The driver (Soltis) and his companion were rushed to the
hospital
> and are both in serious condition. Dieter is a member of the Austin Healey
> Club USA. I don't know him but I found him in the club directory. My best
> wishes go out to him and Robert Cates. Just thought anyone out there who
> knows Mr. Soltis would want to know...... ...
> Randy Harris
> '66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Fred Crowley <fredcrowley at teamhealeytexas.com>
From: Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de [mailto:Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de]
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 11:42:25 -0500
Subject: Re: K/O procedures?
Regards Fred
David Masucci wrote:
> The theoretical reason for not hitting the knock-off with the wheel on the
> ground is due to the stress that puts on the spokes. With the wheel up in
> the air, the spokes don't take as much of a hit...as the wheel is free to
> rebound away from the blow. On the ground, the tire is held fast. I disput
> this however. I can't believe that these forces are any more severe than
> normal accelerating, and braking.
>
> In the end, I really don't think it matters much. It's easy to do either
> way. If concerned, jack it up first.
>
> Dave Masucci
> BJ8
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "James Hart" <jgh3rd@jps.net>
> To: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>; "Alex" <alexmm@adelphia.net>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 10:25 PM
> Subject: Re: K/O procedures?
>
> > This seems intuitive to me as with a lugnut mounted wheel--initial
> > loosening, final tightening with wheel on ground, all interim activity
> with
> > car in air for centering and safety.
> >
> > my humble 0.02,
> >
> > Jim '62 BT7 TriCarb
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
> > To: "Alex" <alexmm@adelphia.net>
> > Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 7:12 PM
> > Subject: Re: K/O procedures?
> >
> >
> > > I'd say that you need to leave the wheel on the ground just until you
> > break
> > > the knockoff loose. But you need to have the wheel off the ground to
> > assure
> > > the wheel is properly centered on the hub while it is tightened.
> > >
> > > bk
> > > ---------------------
> > > At 05:55 PM 5/30/2002, you wrote:
> > > >Can anyone shed light on the discrepancy between my owner's manual for
> a
> > BJ8
> > > >and Moss Motors' description of how to remove a knockoff hub?
> > > >
> > > >Moss, in its Issue 1, 2002 catalog, on page 213, says that BMC issued a
> > > >service bulletin that says the wheels should be off the ground while
> > > >hammering a k/o either on or off. The 1967 Driver's Handbook owner's
> > manual,
> > > >on page 28, agrees, saying to "...always jack up a wheel before using
> the
> > > >hammer."
> > > >
> > > >However, on the very next page, the manual instructs: "...the knockon
> > type
> > > >hub cap concerned should be loosened by using a mallet on the cap wings
> > > >before the car is jacked up."
> > > >
> > > >Anyone care to comment on what *is* the correct procedure, and why?
> > > >
> > > >== Alex in Kennebunk, Maine
> > > > 1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
fredcrowley.vcf]
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de [mailto:Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de]
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 17:20:33 +0000
Subject: Re: K/O procedures?
- Chinese Proverb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de [mailto:Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de]
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 12:30:44 -0700
Subject: Healey in San Mateo
I am interested in a Healey for sale in San Mateo, CA. Is there anyone on
the list nearby that might be willing to look at it for me? I live in the
Seattle, WA area and would like to know if it is worth flying down to see
it. Please contact me off list.
Thanks,
John
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Jim Hill" <jrhill at chorus.net>
From: Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de [mailto:Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de]
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 14:41:55 -0500
Subject: Holy Smoly
> Spoken with BMW officials here in Germany, they
> told me there was never really planned to bring out
> a new Austin-Healey by BMW.
Perhaps . . . but that's pretty much what you'd expect them to say AFTER
they've decided not to go ahead with the project. Doesn't quite explain why
they built the prototype show car in the first place and cooperated in
touting it to every car magazine that would print it's picture, does it?
We'll never know the REAL reasons why BMW scuttled the "Healey" project, but
it may well have had something to do with the immediate, sometimes vicious
and overwhelmingly negative reaction to the car by members of the Healey
community, proclaiming in advance that owners of the new cars would be
unwelcome in Healey clubs and at Healey meets.
Not, of course, that there's anything wrong with that . . . :-)
Jim Hill
Madison WI
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
From: Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de [mailto:Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de]
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 15:47:51 -0400
Subject: [Fwd: [Fwd: Fw: investment strategy]]
Jim D
Bill Smith wrote:
>
>
>
> This is a real story ...moved today ... sell that thing and get a
> Harley before you get killed .. a word to the wise ...
>
> Actually, big historic car racing weekend at Sears Point, bet these
> idiots were trying out their race settings ...
>
> How's things?
>
> (Sausalito-AP) -- Two men were injured after their 1967 Austin Healey
> convertible went off a cliff overlooking the Golden Gate Bridge and
> burst into flames.
>
> 6 Presidio Park Police say Dieter Soltis and Robert Cates were driving
> in the Marin Headlands near Sausalito just before 10 a-m when their
> car went off the side of the road, down a 50-foot cliff and crashed
> into several eucalyptus trees.
>
> 6 The car then caught fire.
>
> 6 Rescue efforts were hampered by the steep embankment, thick brush
> and dense fog.
>
> 6 Soltis, who was driving, was airlifted to Stanford Medical Center
> with a back injury. He's listed in stable condition.
>
> 6 Cates is listed as fair at John Muir Medical Center in Walnut Creek.
>
> 6
>
>
>
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Rich <jearich at mindspring.com>
From: Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de [mailto:Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de]
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 13:53:10 -0600
Subject: Re: detaching driveline
Cheers, "Bob"
--
To get random signatures put text files into a folder called 3Random
Signatures2 into your Preferences folder.
> From: Awgertoo@aol.com
> Reply-To: Awgertoo@aol.com
> Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 11:49:43 EDT
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: detaching driveline
>
> I understand that if our cars are to be towed for any distance with the rear
> wheels on the ground the driveline should be disconnected in order to not
> damage the transmission. My question is: What is the easiest way of doing
> this?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Bill Wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
From: Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de [mailto:Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de]
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 16:00:11 -0400
Subject: 3801 in Germany
KOMPLETT RESTAURIERT
Mark your records!
Bill Wood
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de [mailto:Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de]
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 15:10:39 -0500
Subject: Re: Cool BritCar Site
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de [mailto:Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de]
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 13:50:03 -0600
Subject: Re: British Car Week Report
Venice, you are cruisin" in a gondola and recording these events
<wink>!
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
P.S. I've seen five MGBs, one TR6 and one Sunbeam Tiger so far
this BCW
Richard Feibusch wrote:
> Day 5
>
> Took my '59 Minor ragtop to Cruise Night at Teddy's in West LA - only
> British car there - only two other sightings: A REALLY nice Jag 420 saloon,
> black/w chrome wire wheels parked on a residential street in Santa Monica
> and one of those later model Mini 1000s with the high bumpers and strange
> overiders, LHD (we call them "Canadian Minis" as that's where most of them
> came from) parked in front of an art supply store.
>
> Oh well!!!!!!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Rick in Venice
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de [mailto:Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de]
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 15:21:49 -0500
Subject: Re: detaching driveline
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de [mailto:Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de]
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 15:26:25 -0500
Subject: Re: K/O procedures?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de [mailto:Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de]
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 20:31:45 +0000
Subject: Re: Cool BritCar Site
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
> particularly, when you can buy new ones for $35 each.
> eyera3@attbi.com wrote:
> >
> > Wow,
> > Just checked out the site. Cute, but stereotypical
> > video.
> > He really thinks his parts are precious though. $325.00
> > for a NOS set of disk wheel hub caps!!!! outrageous!
> >
> > --
> > Ira Erbs
> > Digs-4 Solutions
> > For training,network,PC and
> > Macintosh
> > "Learning without thinking is
> > labor lost; thinking
> > without learning is dangerous."
> >
> > - Chinese Proverb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
From: Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de [mailto:Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de]
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 16:32:51 -0400
Subject: Healey add
Jim D
60 BT7 2167
Manasquan, NJ
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de [mailto:Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de]
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 20:34:59 +0000
Subject: Re: K/O procedures?
- Chinese Proverb
> wire wheels look cool, however, round wheels sure ride nice !!
> eyera3@attbi.com wrote:
> >
> > I swapped out my 48 spoke wire wheel/ drum brakes for a
> > set of disk wheel/ disk brake hubs 20 years ago, and the
> > roads have just gotten worse since then. So the knock
> > off issue and broken wire spokes are not a concern.
> > yes they do look better with spoke wheels, but my car is
> > a daily driver and will never be sold, just passed on to
> > the next generation... I've hada few racers offer me
> > new 60 spoke wheels and hubs for my set up. no sale...
> > --BT7
> > Ira Erbs
> > Digs-4 Solutions
> > For training,network,PC and
> > Macintosh
> > "Learning without thinking is
> > labor lost; thinking
> > without learning is dangerous."
> >
> > - Chinese Proverb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de [mailto:Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de]
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 13:33:17 -0700
Subject: Re: Rear axle and frame clearance
Had the tricarb on an alignment rack this morning. From underneath, with
the car sitting on its wheels in the normal, unladen configuration, (without
the overweight driver aboard!) the clearance between the axle housing and
the pad on the frame is approx. One and a half inches. The BN4 should be
about the same.
Better check it out - something is wrong on your car!
Cheers,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <Biloselhir@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 7:03 AM
Subject: Rear axle and frame clearance
In the process of putting my BN4 back together and have a question. Before
starting total restoration had replaced the rear springs, etc. After this
was first done the clearance was small between the axle and the pads on the
frame (maybe 1/4" or so). Then after a couple of months it got better and
stopped "bottoming out" on bumps.
Well, now after taking car completely apart and now getting it back
together,
the axle rests on the pads, but don't have alot hung on the car yet--no
fenders, no interior, etc.... (almost ready to test drive before hanging
body
parts for final fit before painting them). While car was ona drive-on lift
two of us hung on the frame (about 400# total) and it bearly separated the
axle from the pad on the frame. Does this sound OK? Everything seems to be
put together OK Exept the fiber pads that are supposed to be on top of the
axle under the spring are missing. Also wonder if that will cause any
problems?
Thanks,
Bill 59BN4
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de [mailto:Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de]
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 16:35:30 -0400
Subject: Re: detaching driveline
Detaching the driveline at the pumpkin end is very easy on a BN6 because of
the battery access door and that enables you to tow long distances (I've
done it for 2500 miles) with the rear end dragging.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Rich" <jearich@mindspring.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2002 3:53 PM
Subject: Re: detaching driveline
> Tow it backwards on a dolly.
>
> Cheers, "Bob"
>
> --
> To get random signatures put text files into a folder called 3Random
> Signatures2 into your Preferences folder.
>
> > From: Awgertoo@aol.com
> > Reply-To: Awgertoo@aol.com
> > Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 11:49:43 EDT
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: detaching driveline
> >
> > I understand that if our cars are to be towed for any distance with the
rear
> > wheels on the ground the driveline should be disconnected in order to
not
> > damage the transmission. My question is: What is the easiest way of
doing
> > this?
> >
> > Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
>
> ///
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de [mailto:Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de]
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 21:46:40 +0000
Subject: rear axle clearance
Mark
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ron Yates" <dipstickdigest at mohaveaz.com>
From: Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de [mailto:Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de]
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 16:34:15 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey accident
It raises a question though. What were six members of the Presidio Police
doing on the other side of the Golden Gate Bridge in the Marin hedlands near
Sausalito? From the Presidio to the hedlands isn't just a walk across the
street! I wouldn't think that the Marin County poobahs (home of Johnny Bin
Laden) would allow San Francisco constabulary (state park or otherwise) to
run loose on their turf. This sounds like a job for "ACLU Man".
I can see trying the car out for Sears Point, but the hedlands are a little
far away and sounds like the terrain is a bit different, but who knows,
racers do some interesting things when it comes to checking setups for
competition. I'm sure Fred Crowley and Phil Coombs could regale us with
tales from the darkside; e.g., Phil Coombs blowing the glass out of the door
of his new Range Rover whilst dyno testing his 100S. Explain that to your
insurance rep!
The EMT did agreat job also. Airlifting the driver to Palo Alto some 30 plus
miles south of San Francisco and the passenger went to a hospital forty
miles east of Frisco. That's got to cost a bunch of bucks! I guess San
Francisco is out of the hospital business.
Like Jim says they gonna need (lots of ) cards and get well wishes.
Please extend my best wishes for a full and speedy recovery.
RY
----- Original Message -----
From: "James B Dalglish" <leaker@exit109.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2002 1:47 PM
Subject: [Fwd: [Fwd: Fw: investment strategy]]
> Thought this would at least spark a get well card or words of
> encouragement. Hope they are doing well.
>
> Jim D
>
> Bill Smith wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >
> > This is a real story ...moved today ... sell that thing and get a
> > Harley before you get killed .. a word to the wise ...
> >
> > Actually, big historic car racing weekend at Sears Point, bet these
> > idiots were trying out their race settings ...
> >
> > How's things?
> >
> > (Sausalito-AP) -- Two men were injured after their 1967 Austin Healey
> > convertible went off a cliff overlooking the Golden Gate Bridge and
> > burst into flames.
> >
> > 6 Presidio Park Police say Dieter Soltis and Robert Cates were driving
> > in the Marin Headlands near Sausalito just before 10 a-m when their
> > car went off the side of the road, down a 50-foot cliff and crashed
> > into several eucalyptus trees.
> >
> > 6 The car then caught fire.
> >
> > 6 Rescue efforts were hampered by the steep embankment, thick brush
> > and dense fog.
> >
> > 6 Soltis, who was driving, was airlifted to Stanford Medical Center
> > with a back injury. He's listed in stable condition.
> >
> > 6 Cates is listed as fair at John Muir Medical Center in Walnut Creek.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de [mailto:Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de]
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 15:51:43 -0700
Subject: searching for Tim Kin
Cheers,
John
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de [mailto:Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de]
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 15:53:51 -0700
Subject: Idling bushes
Many thanks,
John
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rebeltown at aol.com
From: Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de [mailto:Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de]
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 19:07:31 EDT
Subject: Re: Cool BritCar Site
Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Lawrence Mercier" <lmercibn6 at mindspring.com>
From: Stacy
To: lmercibn6@mindspring.com
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 20:20:40 -0400
Subject: Attempting to locate my Mother's car
I have a strange request.
My Mother died in October 1974. She Owned a Pink Healey. According to her
journal she took the top off-so I'm guessing it was not a convertible. My
Grandparents sold her car to a collector. All I have been told is that He was
a Doctor in Seattle Washington. I am not sure when the car was sold. Shortly
before or after her death I'm sure. Yakima, Washington is where my
grandparents lived.
I'm not sure why I need to find this car. I have no claim on it, and I am
most certain it is not for sale. I would like the opportunity to see it and
if it ever were on the market maybe I could have the opportunity to purchase
it. My mother died when I was four years old. My baby brother never new her.
Most of her possessions were disposed of, such as the car, and we really have
nothing of hers.
Any suggestions on how to go about locating this car, with the limited
information I have, would be greatly appreciated. I've been living in Seattle
for eight years and I can't stop thinking about this. So here goes nothing.
Thank you,
Stacy
S@baronspetservice.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: Stacy
To: lmercibn6@mindspring.com
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 20:37:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Fw: Attempting to locate my Mother's car
Any chance this could be Alan Alfano's car? A Black and Pink Healey purchased
on the West coast.
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Stacy
To: lmercibn6@mindspring.com
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 18:12:53 -0700
Subject: Re: Attempting to locate my Mother's car
Her mother was Barbie!
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Listers,
> I received the message below and I'm forwarding it to the list for help.
> Please respond directly to "Stacy" if you have any knowledge of this car.
> Thanks,
> Larry Mercier
> Atlanta
>
> I have a strange request.
>
> My Mother died in October 1974. She Owned a Pink Healey. According to her
> journal she took the top off-so I'm guessing it was not a convertible. My
> Grandparents sold her car to a collector. All I have been told is that He was
> a Doctor in Seattle Washington. I am not sure when the car was sold. Shortly
> before or after her death I'm sure. Yakima, Washington is where my
> grandparents lived.
>
> I'm not sure why I need to find this car. I have no claim on it, and I am
> most certain it is not for sale. I would like the opportunity to see it and
> if it ever were on the market maybe I could have the opportunity to purchase
> it. My mother died when I was four years old. My baby brother never new her.
> Most of her possessions were disposed of, such as the car, and we really have
> nothing of hers.
>
> Any suggestions on how to go about locating this car, with the limited
> information I have, would be greatly appreciated. I've been living in Seattle
> for eight years and I can't stop thinking about this. So here goes nothing.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Stacy
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Stacy
To: lmercibn6@mindspring.com
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 21:17:13 -0500
Subject: Re: BN1 Handbrake Installation
Mark
> Listers,
>
> I just received my new handbrake cable today. The old
> one snapped right at the handle attachment point. Does
> anyone have any words of advice on how to go about
> installing it? I have the trans tunnel off already
> (troubleshooting non-operative OD) but it looks pretty
> tight in there. Is it required to detach the drive
> shaft and drop it out of the way? (scary) Detailed
> instructions for a frightened rookie are appreciated.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: Stacy
To: lmercibn6@mindspring.com
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 21:22:31 -0500
Subject: Healey Trip
I came up behind one of those four wheel crop dusters that set about 8 feet up
on four long legs with wheels at the bottom. They are about 7 feet wide and I
thought once about zooming under it but just as I was checking clearance I
glanced in my rear view mirror and there was a Kentucky State Trooper right
behind me. Good thing I hesitated.
I think I could have made it, but discretion is the better part of valor. I
aint chicken, but I aint crazy either.
On the way home everything worked fine, overdrive was kicking in and out on
command but I heard a noise that I didn't like. Sounded like gears not meshing
properly. I'll check it out tomorrow.
Hope the two accident victims in California are doing OK. Anyone find out the
cause of the accident yet?
Don
BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Stacy
To: lmercibn6@mindspring.com
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 22:25:32 -0700
Subject: Re: Attempting to locate my Mother's car
Bob Spidell wrote:
> " ... She Owned a Pink Healey ... "
>
> Her mother was Barbie!
>
> bs
> *****************************************************
> Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
>(home)
> San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> *****************************************************
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: Stacy
To: lmercibn6@mindspring.com
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 22:31:25 EDT
Subject: Re: detaching driveline
First of all I don't believe that you have to disconnect the driveshaft on a
manual transmission car before towing it. This only applies to automatic
transmissions and in fact a good friend of mine towed his BJ8 from Los
Angeles to Oregon and back with no problems many (about twenty?) years ago
and the car suffered no ill effects and still runs well, however he'll also
tell you that its not a good idea for other reasons, but that is not the
reason I'm writing.
Do I understand that Bob is recommending that a Healey, with wire wheels and
knockoffs I have to assume, be towed with the rear wheels on a dolly
backwards!!! PLEASE DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS, for in a very short number of
miles the knockoffs will come off followed by the front wheels and you'll
find out when you hear a horrible scrapping and grinding noise from where the
front end of your beloved Healey used to be! I hope he was just kidding but
since I didn't see a "LOL" at the end of his statement I have to assume that
he was serious. Folks, the knockoff arrangement is designed to tighten as
you drive, forward, but not to be towed backwards for many hundreds of miles.
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
In a message dated 5/31/02 12:55:15 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
jearich@mindspring.com writes:
<< Tow it backwards on a dolly.
Cheers, "Bob" >>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Stacy
To: lmercibn6@mindspring.com
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 21:49:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Idling bushes
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Stacy
To: lmercibn6@mindspring.com
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 22:04:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: BN1 Handbrake Installation
It is difficult, if not impossible to fix this
correctly without dropping the driveshaft unless you
typically have some good quality or special tools in
your cabinet.
That being said, pulling off the driveshaft isn't all
that difficult (it's a ten minute job) once the tunnel
is off the car - you don't even need to jack up a BN1
(later cars you do) - simply undo the four bolts on
the rear diff reaching from the cockpit access panel -
5 minutes. remove the four nuts on the OD side of it
- five minutes. Best to remove the shaft as one piece
and mark with a grease pen how it will bolt back up
to the diff and OD (not critical, but simply for
balancing sake). This should take you ten minutes to
do tops.
Once it is out, it is best to firmly mount the cable
end onto the mount on the frame in the tunnel first,
as this part of mounting the cable is the fiddliest.
Be sure your repro cable has sufficient "lip" on the
end so that it won't work into the mount that is
welded onto the frame in the tunnel. It's good to
have shorty or midget wrenches while working in the
tunnel area, esp. good quality wrenches with narrow
heads. I prefer snap on, or "craftsman pro" is a
decent back up here (Sears sells a nice "craftsman
pro" shorty wrench set SAE for about $40 bucks).
There's all sorts of adjustment - folow your manual
for this stuff and write back if you have any
question.
Sorry to cut this short, but I have to run.
Regards,
ALan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- michaelwilliams@attbi.com wrote:
> Listers,
>
> I just received my new handbrake cable today. The
> old
> one snapped right at the handle attachment point.
> Does
> anyone have any words of advice on how to go about
> installing it? I have the trans tunnel off already
> (troubleshooting non-operative OD) but it looks
> pretty
> tight in there. Is it required to detach the drive
> shaft and drop it out of the way? (scary) Detailed
> instructions for a frightened rookie are
> appreciated.
>
> --Michael Williams
> '55 BN1
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
|
