Yeah. I've felt all the shakes too. And sometimes it feels like the
chassis is part of the suspension. But I've never heard of doors coming
open during hard driving - unlike some French and American cars that come
to mind. Given the feeble latches we've got you'd think self-opening doors
would be part of our folklore. I'm sure "rigid" is wrong ME term.
Cheers,
Mike Tobin
On Dec 15, 2013 2:51 PM, <shepard7107@verizon.net> wrote:
> "My theory is that the Healey structure is really pretty stiff " .......
> now that's a new one. At least to me. Been driving my BJ8 since 1973 and of
> the many things that have struck me about it in the last 40 years , that
> certainly ain't one of them.
>
> Merry Christmas
>
> Mike Shepard
> Baltimore Md
>
> On 12/15/13, Mike Tobin<ahbt71@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Darin,
> Went through hell with my BT7 when I cut out the sills and rear shut
> pieces. The doors would not line up with the rear wings. I'd left the
> motor and trans in the car, to account for the sag. Didn't matter. After
> way too long I realized that cowl had moved (down and a bit forward) when
> the siill had been removed (it's located on the lower edge to the sill). I
> cut the new sills off, got new ones and by using pipe clamps and a
> come-along was able to get everything into alignment *before* re-welding.
> It looks like s*"=t down there, but damn the doors line up!
> My theory is that the Healey structure is really pretty stiff (never hear
> about doors coming open), but they take a real beating (my frame rails are
> all dented) and stresses build up which are released when a stressed member
> is cut out. Looking at the cowl I didn't think it could have moved.
> The Kilmartin sills are nice.
> Cheers,
> Mike Tobin
> On Dec 14, 2013 8:13 PM, "Darin Graber" <dkgraber85@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > Hello to all -
> >
> > I am new to the list and am in the process of working my
> > way throughout the refurbishment of a '57 100-6 Longbridge in Salt Lake
> > City.
> > This is a car that I want to retain some of the patina, and I WILL drive
> a
> > lot - I have the factory hard top and my driving season may very well
> > extend
> > to year-round (dry weather permitting). So this won't be a trailer queen.
> > Attention is being paid to the 'typical' body places - doglegs, boot
> > floor,
> > bottoms of fenders, cockpit floors, etc. Of course, the inner sills and
> > outer
> > rockers are in need of replacement and are coming up soon. I have some
> > questions about the pitfalls of this task - i.e. door opening
> > measurements, do
> > I need to brace the openings and if so, where, what to look out for, etc.
> >
> >
> > I have researched a lot on line and by reading books and have seen some
> > 'restorations' being carried out using various methods and instructions.
> I
> > have seen many pics that the doors just don't look quite right, or the
> swag
> > line doesn't quite line up. My hope is that things will line up well
> > enough
> > that I can duo-tone the paint. This cars' frame and outriggers are very
> > good
> > - most of the corrosion has been contained to the outer sheet metal so
> the
> > measurements of the inner sills and their attachment to the frame is not
> a
> > worry (I don't think). I have a data chart with frame measurements. The
> > car
> > has been to the frame shop and is straight. Again what I am looking for
> is
> > any info regarding this process, known issues, things to look out for,
> etc.
> > I look forward to your comments and dialog. Cheers!
> >
> > Darin
> >
> > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name
> of
> > IMG_1087.jpg]
> >
> > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name
> of
> > IMG_1039.JPG]
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