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Two things that have caused this to happen to me: one was a bad rotor and th=
e other was my Petronix
Jon
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 19, 2019, at 10:07 PM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com> wrot=
e:
>=20
> Hi Michael--
>=20
> Firstly my condolences to you and your countrymen for the terrible event t=
hat happened last week. =20
>=20
> As to the B/W wire's being the culprit I tore it out long ago and replaced=
the stock cutoff switch with a superior marine unit with plated contacts, s=
o scratch that as a cause. As I posted elsewhere I am hoping to actually fi=
nd the definite issue such as a defective component or a failing connection,=
etc. rather than launching into replacing coils, changing disty's etc. and t=
hen waiting for something or nothing to happen. I'll start by going through=
the ignition circuit beginning with the key switch and see if I can find th=
e offending bit, etc. If no luck then I'll start on the Mallory Unilite whi=
ch, being an electronic system (Hall Effect?) , has no condenser.
>=20
> Thanks for the input and we'll stay in touch--Michael
>=20
>> On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 9:34 PM Michael Salter <michael.salter@gmail.com>=
wrote:
>> Hi Michael,
>> 100's do have the master switch grounding wire to the master switch so it=
might well be worth checking.
>> The symptoms sound very similar to those I encountered with a faulty coil=
. Mine would run for about 30 minutes fairly consistently before suddenly dy=
ing.=20
>> Even when the engine would not start the bad coil still produced a signif=
icant spark each time the open points were shorted with a screwdriver which I=
at the time, mistakenly, felt confirmed that the coil was actually okay ..=
. it wasn't.
>> I was only able to confirm that the villain was in fact the coil by insta=
lling a replacement.
>> I have encountered very similar symptoms with a faulty condenser which wa=
s confirmed by spraying it sparingly with ether to cool it down and then fin=
ding that the engine started immediately.
>> As I'm sure you are aware a fuel delivery problem never causes the engine=
to stop dead ... it typically sort of peters out!!
>> I would recommend trying the condenser trick and then, if a regular coil=
can be used as a substitute for the Mallory try a substitution.
>>=20
>> M
>>=20
>> I wonder where the term "peters out" comes from ... Google time.
>>=20
>>=20
>>> On Wed, Mar 20, 2019 at 2:13 PM <simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com> wrot=
e:
>>> I=E2=80=99m presuming that the car=E2=80=99s a 100? You make reference t=
o 4 plugs=E2=80=A6..
>>>=20
>>> Do 100s have the dreaded white wire from the on/off switch in the boot? D=
o 100s have the switch even? Anyhow, that wire shorting out has caused endle=
ss tears.
>>>=20
>>> Or is it a black/white wire?
>>>=20
>>> Worth a look.
>>>=20
>>> Simon
>>>=20
>>> =20
>>>=20
>>> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Orit=
t
>>> Sent: 19 March 2019 17:46
>>> To: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
>>> Subject: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly
>>>=20
>>> =20
>>>=20
>>> Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles the c=
ar suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or missing leading u=
p to it=E2=80=94the car simply died. I coasted to the side of the road and a=
fter about 30 seconds since the key was still on I pushed the start button. T=
o my surprise the car started immediately, revved freely and idled smoothly.=
A bit perplexed I decided to drive on to see what would happen now that I w=
as paying close attention. The car accelerated smoothly and ran fine for abo=
ut 1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manner as earlier. I shut off=
the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition system. Everything seeme=
d fine=E2=80=94all spark plug leads were firmly in place as was the lead fro=
m the coil to the distributor. The power wires to the coil were tight and th=
e harness/connector to the distributor (see below) seemed fine.
>>>=20
>>>=20
>>> After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, turne=
d on the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car started right u=
p and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage, about t=
en miles away and got there without any further event. Though the problem di=
d not seem to be fuel related I decided to verify that this was not a fuel d=
elivery issue. I have a double-headed SU fuel pump wired to a switch mounted=
just behind the driver=E2=80=99s seat which allows me to switch between pum=
ps as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the car at highway=
speeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selected the =E2=80=9Coff=
=E2=80=9D position it slowly lost power as I expected it to=E2=80=94but in n=
o way like it had suddenly twice died 15 or so minutes earlier. This indicat=
ed I was not dealing with a fuel issue but rather something related either t=
o the ignition system or to the primary wires that run to it.=20
>>>=20
>>>=20
>>> This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The ca=
r has a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has been i=
n place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the distr=
ibutor cap and everything appears to be okay, at least visually. The interio=
r of the distributor was clean and dry as was the cap, leads, carbon contact=
, optical reader, etc. Mallory specifies the use of a ballast resistor in th=
e lead from the power source to the coil and with the engine fast-idling I t=
ested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of it and at the posi=
tive coil terminal.=20
>>>=20
>>>=20
>>> I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in pla=
ce of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition switch th=
rough a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressure gauge send=
er line and then to the light. I point this out because both times when the e=
ngine shut down yesterday the light immediately came on, from which I conclu=
de that the ignition switch itself is not the source of the problem. And tho=
ugh I did not remove the ignition key switch the wires to and from it seem t=
ight and intact.
>>>=20
>>>=20
>>> So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without fin=
ding something that appears to be defective but I don=E2=80=99t know where t=
o start any further tests, etc. I also don=E2=80=99t want to simply wait for=
the issue to happen again. BTW over the weekend I drove about 150 miles wit=
h no issues whatever. Beyond installing four new plugs last week I have not p=
erformed any work related to the ignition system. All suggestions/questions w=
elcome=E2=80=A6.
>>>=20
>>> =20
>>>=20
>>> Best--Michael Oritt, BN1
>>>=20
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>>=20
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/arc=
hive
>>>=20
>>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>=20
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michae=
lsalter@gmail.com
>>>=20
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>=20
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archi=
ve
>=20
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/einhornl=
awoffice@gmail.com
>=20
--Apple-Mail-6155FA47-FC10-44B8-BE2F-BAC5D7C92114
charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div>Two things that have caused this to ha=
ppen to me: one was a bad rotor and the other was my Petronix</div><div id=3D=
"AppleMailSignature">Jon<br><br>Sent from my iPhone</div><div><br>On Mar 19,=
2019, at 10:07 PM, Michael Oritt <<a href=3D"mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.=
com">michael.oritt@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type=3D=
"cite"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#33=
33ff">Hi Michael--</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"=
><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Firstly my c=
ondolences to you and your countrymen for the terrible event that happened l=
ast week. </div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333=
ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">As to the=
B/W wire's being the culprit I tore it out long ago and replaced the stock c=
utoff switch with a superior marine unit with plated contacts, so scratch th=
at as a cause. As I posted elsewhere I am hoping to actually find the d=
efinite issue such as a defective component or a failing connection, etc. ra=
ther than launching into replacing coils, changing disty's etc. and then wai=
ting for something or nothing to happen. I'll start by going through t=
he ignition circuit beginning with the key switch and see if I can find the o=
ffending bit, etc. If no luck then I'll start on the Mallory Unilite w=
hich, being an electronic system (Hall Effect?) , has no condenser.</div><di=
v class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gm=
ail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Thanks for the input and we'll stay in t=
ouch--Michael</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" cla=
ss=3D"gmail_attr">On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 9:34 PM Michael Salter <<a href=
=3D"mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com";>michael.salter@gmail.com</a>> wrote:=
<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8e=
x;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr">=
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:"comic sans ms",=
sans-serif;font-size:small">Hi Michael,<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default=
" style=3D"font-family:"comic sans ms",sans-serif;font-size:small"=
>100's do have the master switch grounding wire to the master switch so it m=
ight well be worth checking.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font=
-family:"comic sans ms",sans-serif;font-size:small">The symptoms s=
ound very similar to those I encountered with a faulty coil. Mine would run f=
or about 30 minutes fairly consistently before suddenly dying. <br></div><di=
v class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:"comic sans ms",san=
s-serif;font-size:small">Even when the engine would not start the bad coil s=
till produced a significant spark each time the open points were shorted wit=
h a screwdriver which I at the time, mistakenly, felt confirmed that t=
he coil was actually okay ... it wasn't.<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_defaul=
t" style=3D"font-family:"comic sans ms",sans-serif;font-size:small=
">I was only able to confirm that the villain was in fact the coil by instal=
ling a replacement.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:&=
quot;comic sans ms",sans-serif;font-size:small">I have encountered very=
similar symptoms with a faulty condenser which was confirmed by spraying it=
sparingly with ether to cool it down and then finding that the engine start=
ed immediately.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:"=
;comic sans ms",sans-serif;font-size:small">As I'm sure you are aware a=
fuel delivery problem never causes the engine to stop dead ... it typically=
sort of peters out!!<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-fa=
mily:"comic sans ms",sans-serif;font-size:small"> I would rec=
ommend trying the condenser trick and then, if a regular coil can be used as=
a substitute for the Mallory try a substitution.</div><div class=3D"gmail_d=
efault" style=3D"font-family:"comic sans ms",sans-serif;font-size:=
small"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:"com=
ic sans ms",sans-serif;font-size:small">M</div><div class=3D"gmail_defa=
ult" style=3D"font-family:"comic sans ms",sans-serif;font-size:sma=
ll"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:"comic s=
ans ms",sans-serif;font-size:small">I wonder where the term "peters out=
" comes from ... Google time.<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D=
"font-family:"comic sans ms",sans-serif;font-size:small"><br></div=
></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">=
On Wed, Mar 20, 2019 at 2:13 PM <<a href=3D"mailto:simon.lachlan@alexarev=
el.plus.com" target=3D"_blank">simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com</a>> wro=
te:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0=
.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div lang=3D"E=
N-GB"><div class=3D"gmail-m_-789276802690414559gmail-m_3595661642997666392Wo=
rdSection1"><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>I=E2=80=99m presuming that the car=E2=
=80=99s a 100? You make reference to 4 plugs=E2=80=A6..<u></u><u></u></span>=
</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Do 100s have the dreaded white wire from th=
e on/off switch in the boot? Do 100s have the switch even? Anyhow, that wire=
shorting out has caused endless tears.<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"=
MsoNormal"><span>Or is it a black/white wire?<u></u><u></u></span></p><p cla=
ss=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Worth a look.<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"Mso=
Normal"><span>Simon<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span><u>=
</u> <u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b><span
lang=3D"EN-US">From:=
</span></b><span lang=3D"EN-US"> Healeys <<a href=3D"mailto:healeys-bounc=
es@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>> <=
b>On Behalf Of </b>Michael Oritt<br><b>Sent:</b> 19 March 2019 17:46<br><b>T=
o:</b> Austin Healey <<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; target=3D=
"_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Car die=
s suddenly<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u> <u></=
u></p><div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-fa=
mily:Verdana,sans-serif;color:rgb(51,51,51);background:none 0% 0% repeat scr=
oll rgb(250,250,250)">Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after abo=
ut five miles the car suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering o=
r missing leading up to it=E2=80=94the car simply died. I coasted to the sid=
e of the road and after about 30 seconds since the key was still on I pushed=
the start button. To my surprise the car started immediately, revved freely=
and idled smoothly. A bit perplexed I decided to drive on to see what would=
happen now that I was paying close attention. The car accelerated smoothly a=
nd ran fine for about 1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manner as e=
arlier. I shut off the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition system=
. Everything seemed fine=E2=80=94all spark plug leads were firmly in place a=
s was the lead from the coil to the distributor. The power wires to the coil=
were tight and the harness/connector to the distributor (see below) seemed f=
ine.</span><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;colo=
r:rgb(51,51,51)"><br><br><br><span style=3D"background:none 0% 0% repeat scr=
oll rgb(250,250,250)">After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got=
in the car, turned on the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the c=
ar started right up and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my s=
hop/garage, about ten miles away and got there without any further event. Th=
ough the problem did not seem to be fuel related I decided to verify that th=
is was not a fuel delivery issue. I have a double-headed SU fuel pump wired t=
o a switch mounted just behind the driver=E2=80=99s seat which allows me to s=
witch between pumps as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running t=
he car at highway speeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selected=
the =E2=80=9Coff=E2=80=9D position it slowly lost power as I expected it to=
=E2=80=94but in no way like it had suddenly twice died 15 or so minutes earl=
ier. This indicated I was not dealing with a fuel issue but rather something=
related either to the ignition system or to the primary wires that run to i=
t. </span><br><br><br><span style=3D"background:none 0% 0% repeat scrol=
l rgb(250,250,250)">This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the=
problem. The car has a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil w=
hich has been in place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I re=
moved the distributor cap and everything appears to be okay, at least visual=
ly. The interior of the distributor was clean and dry as was the cap, leads,=
carbon contact, optical reader, etc. Mallory specifies the use of a ballast=
resistor in the lead from the power source to the coil and with the engine f=
ast-idling I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of it a=
nd at the positive coil terminal. </span><br><br><br><span style=3D"bac=
kground:none 0% 0% repeat scroll rgb(250,250,250)">I have a large low-oil pr=
essure light that is mounted in the dash in place of the original overdrive s=
witch. It is wired from the ignition switch through a 10 psi normally-closed=
switch mounted in the oil pressure gauge sender line and then to the light.=
I point this out because both times when the engine shut down yesterday the=
light immediately came on, from which I conclude that the ignition switch i=
tself is not the source of the problem. And though I did not remove the igni=
tion key switch the wires to and from it seem tight and intact.</span><br><b=
r><br><span style=3D"background:none 0% 0% repeat scroll rgb(250,250,250)">S=
o my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without finding s=
omething that appears to be defective but I don=E2=80=99t know where to star=
t any further tests, etc. I also don=E2=80=99t want to simply wait for the i=
ssue to happen again. BTW over the weekend I drove about 150 miles with no i=
ssues whatever. Beyond installing four new plugs last week I have not perfor=
med any work related to the ignition system. All suggestions/questions welco=
me=E2=80=A6.</span></span><span style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><u></u><u></u=
></span></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color:rgb(51,51=
,255)"><u></u> <u></u></span></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><spa=
n style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;color:rgb(51,51,51)=
;background:none 0% 0% repeat scroll rgb(250,250,250)">Best--Michael Oritt, B=
N1</span><span style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><u></u><u></u></span></p></div=
></div></div></div>_______________________________________________<br>
Support <a href=3D"http://Team.Net";>Team.Net</a> <a href=3D"http://www.team.=
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nate.html</a><br>
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Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys"; rel=3D"noreferrer=
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</blockquote></div>
</blockquote></div>
</div></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div><span>____________________=
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