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Bob,
Thank you - really appreciated - you are a star !
I have now removed one side and yes I had the hooks facing out and the
plates reversed as you did the first time.
As you say this is not covered in the manual, and surprised that this issue
( tricky) is not given much coverage here - compared to say what oil to use
in your OD !
I tried to to get the cylinder out without removing the hyd. pipe to avoid
bleeding but not possible to get the brake lever dislodged.
I too will save your notes for next time...
Tkx
rg
On Tue, Mar 30, 2021 at 7:48 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
> Here's a short video of the cylinder moving (complete with 80s soundtrack
> and modern 'shaky cam'). Pic shows the bevel on the dust cover that I think
> proves this is the correct order of installation.
>
> Here's the sequence of installation that caused me the least frustration:
>
> 1) LIGHTLY grease all moving/sliding parts, including the adjuster cam and
> spreaders and the shaft that the handbrake lever pivots on
>
> 2) Insert cylinder into its slot
>
> 3) Slide the spring plate, with hooks pointed toward the diff, into the
> slot on the cylinder from above as manual shows
>
> 4) Insert the handbrake lever through its slot on the backplate from the
> outside
>
> 5) Lift the cylinder a little with a screwdriver and slide the handbrake
> pivot shaft into its notches on the cylinder (the spring plate allows this)
>
> 6) Start working the flat retaining plate with the notches into the slot
> on the cylinder on top of the spring plate. I tapped it in; it would help
> if someone held the handbrake lever out in its actuated state to prevent
> the spring plate from retreating from the flat plate (it might be possible
> to squeeze them together with a large set of channellocks). Make sure the
> little hooks on the spring plate engage the notches on the flat plate.
>
> 7) Work the rubber boot/dust cover over the handbrake lever and around and
> under the retaining plates, with the beveled edge sliding under the plates
> (see vid).
>
> 8) Wipe off any excess grease (it doesn't go well with brake material)
>
> Credit where due: I'm often (always) disappointed with the quality of
> aftermarket rubber products, but the dust covers I got from Moss are not
> only molded and cut perfectly, but seem to be made of a tough rubber that
> should actually hold up (it's almost a soft plastic).
>
> Bob
>
> ps. This is as much for my benefit, as I seem to have to do this job every
> decade or so, and have to start from scratch procedure-wise every time.
>
>
> On 3/30/2021 9:52 AM, Roger Grace wrote:
>
> Yes thank you; that sounds like a good explanation. As you say it is a
> bear of a job and just working up some stamina to tackle it again !
> rg
>
> On Mon, Mar 29, 2021 at 10:38 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> re: "I note that the slave is tight on the back plate. How tight is
>> normal floating ?"
>>
>> I just spent several hours on my back on a greasy floor working on my
>> BN2's rear drums. I didn't see any text in the shop manual explaining
>> installation; most I found was a pic in the Moss catalog showing that
>> the curved spring, with the 'hooks,' should be installed above the
>> cylinder (between the cylinder and the handbrake lever). First, I
>> installed the flat plate against the backing plate with the spring plate
>> on top of it. Not only would the cylinder not move freely--which enables
>> the self-energizing aspect of the brakes--but the rubber dust boot had
>> nothing to hold it in place. I then reversed the installation; i.e. the
>> spring plate was still above the cylinder, but under the flat plate
>> (hooks up). This way the cylinder would slide smoothly and easily, which
>> makes sense because there is less contact area, but the rubber boot,
>> which is beveled on the inner part fit naturally under the flat plate
>> and would stay in place when vigorously sliding the cylinder
>> back-and-forth. Contact surfaces were lightly greased.
>>
>> Short answer: the cylinder should slide smoothly and easily; otherwise
>> the self-energizing feature could be defeated, and the cylinder could be
>> stuck in the expanded position, which could explain your non-retracting
>> problem.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>> On 3/29/2021 3:07 PM, Roger Grace via Healeys wrote:
>> > BJ8 ph2.
>> > I am Struggling to get consistent results for rear brake shoe
>> adjustment.
>> > All part of a project to get handbrake working properly - currently it
>> > is almost vertical.
>> > Background:
>> > New shoes, slaves and springs etc with less than 4k mi. Almost no sign
>> > of any wear yet.
>> > Handbrake lever clevis pins removed.
>> > Steady post adjusted so the peg just touches when brakes are adjusted
>> > tight.
>> > Then the adjustment set so you can just hear/feel slight brake drag.
>> > All OK so far.
>> >
>> > Here is the problem:
>> > When the handbrake lever is pushed with screwdriver or my hand it
>> > moves with initial free play then clamps the shoes as it should.
>> > However when released brakes do not fully retract, and shoes bind and
>> > not at the same setting that started off with.
>> > Same story with using the hydraulics; seems to hang up, in not quite
>> > the off position. Both wheels are the same.
>> > Shoes can be "reset" to original setting by rattling the adjuster
>> > back and forth in the freeplay zone.
>> > All looks fine when drum is off and you can see the shoe operation.
>> >
>> > My thoughts :
>> > I observe that the new springs actually touch the inside of the shoes ?
>> > Maybe some grease there ? Is this interference normal ?
>> > Is it possible to incorrectly assemble the shoes/springs ?
>> > See photo of RR.
>> > I note that the slave is tight on the back plate. How tight is normal
>> > floating ?
>> > Maybe I assembled the slave cylinder clips incorrectly ?
>> >
>> > All suggestions appreciated
>> > rg
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>>
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>>
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>>
>>
>
--0000000000003bae3505becce0f3
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>Bob,</div><div>Thank you - really appreciated - you a=
re a star !</div><div>I have now removed one side and yes I had the hooks f=
acing out and the plates reversed as you did the first time.<br></div><div>=
As you say this is not covered in the manual, and surprised that this issue=
( tricky) is not given much coverage here - compared to say what oil to us=
e in your OD !</div><div>I tried to to get the cylinder out without removin=
g the hyd. pipe to avoid bleeding but not possible to get the brake lever d=
islodged. <br></div><div>I too will save your notes for next time...</div><=
div>Tkx</div><div>rg<br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div>=
<div><br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=
=3D"gmail_attr">On Tue, Mar 30, 2021 at 7:48 PM Bob Spidell <<a href=3D"=
mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"; target=3D"_blank">bspidell@comcast.net</a>>=
wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px =
0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
=20
=20
=20
<div>
Here's a short video of the cylinder moving (complete with 80s
soundtrack and modern 'shaky cam'). Pic shows the bevel on the =
dust
cover that I think proves this is the correct order of installation.<br=
>
<br>
Here's the sequence of installation that caused me the least
frustration:<br>
<br>
1) LIGHTLY grease all moving/sliding parts, including the adjuster
cam and spreaders and the shaft that the handbrake lever pivots on<br>
<br>
2) Insert cylinder into its slot<br>
<br>
3) Slide the spring plate, with hooks pointed toward the diff, into
the slot on the cylinder from above as manual shows<br>
<br>
4) Insert the handbrake lever through its slot on the backplate from
the outside<br>
<br>
5) Lift the cylinder a little with a screwdriver and slide the
handbrake pivot shaft into its notches on the cylinder (the spring
plate allows this)<br>
<br>
6) Start working the flat retaining plate with the notches into the
slot on the cylinder on top of the spring plate. I tapped it in; it
would help if someone held the handbrake lever out in its actuated
state to prevent the spring plate from retreating from the flat
plate (it might be possible to squeeze them together with a large
set of channellocks). Make sure the little hooks on the spring plate
engage the notches on the flat plate.<br>
<br>
7) Work the rubber boot/dust cover over the handbrake lever and
around and under the retaining plates, with the beveled edge sliding
under the plates (see vid).<br>
<br>
8) Wipe off any excess grease (it doesn't go well with brake
material)<br>
<br>
Credit where due: I'm often (always) disappointed with the quality
of aftermarket rubber products, but the dust covers I got from Moss
are not only molded and cut perfectly, but seem to be made of a
tough rubber that should actually hold up (it's almost a soft
plastic).<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
ps. This is as much for my benefit, as I seem to have to do this job
every decade or so, and have to start from scratch procedure-wise
every time.<br>
<br>
<br>
<div>On 3/30/2021 9:52 AM, Roger Grace
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
=20
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div>Yes thank you;=C2=A0 that sounds like a good explanation. As y=
ou
say it is a bear of a job and just working up some stamina to
tackle it again !</div>
<div>rg<br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class=3D"gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, Mar 29, 2021 at 10:38
PM Bob Spidell <<a href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"; target=
=3D"_blank">bspidell@comcast.net</a>> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex=
;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">re:
"I note that the slave is tight on the back plate. How tight
is <br>
normal floating ?"<br>
<br>
I just spent several hours on my back on a greasy floor
working on my <br>
BN2's rear drums. I didn't see any text in the shop manua=
l
explaining <br>
installation; most I found was a pic in the Moss catalog
showing that <br>
the curved spring, with the 'hooks,' should be installed =
above
the <br>
cylinder (between the cylinder and the handbrake lever).
First, I <br>
installed the flat plate against the backing plate with the
spring plate <br>
on top of it. Not only would the cylinder not move
freely--which enables <br>
the self-energizing aspect of the brakes--but the rubber dust
boot had <br>
nothing to hold it in place. I then reversed the installation;
i.e. the <br>
spring plate was still above the cylinder, but under the flat
plate <br>
(hooks up). This way the cylinder would slide smoothly and
easily, which <br>
makes sense because there is less contact area, but the rubber
boot, <br>
which is beveled on the inner part fit naturally under the
flat plate <br>
and would stay in place when vigorously sliding the cylinder <br>
back-and-forth. Contact surfaces were lightly greased.<br>
<br>
Short answer: the cylinder should slide smoothly and easily;
otherwise <br>
the self-energizing feature could be defeated, and the
cylinder could be <br>
stuck in the expanded position, which could explain your
non-retracting <br>
problem.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
On 3/29/2021 3:07 PM, Roger Grace via Healeys wrote:<br>
> BJ8 ph2.<br>
> I am Struggling to get consistent results for rear brake
shoe adjustment.<br>
> All part of a project to get handbrake working properly -
currently it <br>
> is almost vertical.<br>
> Background:<br>
> New shoes, slaves and springs etc with less than 4k mi.
Almost no sign <br>
> of any wear yet.<br>
> Handbrake lever clevis pins removed.<br>
> Steady post adjusted so the peg just touches when brakes
are adjusted <br>
> tight.<br>
> Then the adjustment set so you can just hear/feel slight
brake drag.<br>
> All OK so far.<br>
><br>
> Here is the problem:<br>
> When the handbrake lever is pushed with screwdriver or my
hand it <br>
> moves with initial free play then clamps the shoes as it
should.=C2=A0 <br>
> However=C2=A0 when released brakes do not fully retract, and
shoes bind and <br>
> not at=C2=A0 the same setting that started off with.<br>
> Same story with using the hydraulics; seems to hang up,
in not quite <br>
> the off position. Both wheels are the same.<br>
> Shoes can be "reset"=C2=A0 to original setting by =
rattling the
adjuster <br>
> back and forth in=C2=A0 the freeplay zone.<br>
> All looks fine when drum is off and you can see the shoe
operation.<br>
><br>
> My thoughts :<br>
> I observe that the new springs actually touch the inside
of the shoes ?<br>
> Maybe some grease there ? Is this interference normal ?<br>
> Is it possible to incorrectly assemble the shoes/springs
?<br>
> See photo of RR.<br>
> I note that the slave is tight on the back plate. How
tight is normal <br>
> floating ?<br>
> Maybe I assembled the slave cylinder clips incorrectly ?<br>
><br>
> All=C2=A0 suggestions appreciated<br>
> rg<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
<br>
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</blockquote>
</div>
</blockquote>
<br>
</div>
</blockquote></div>
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