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Of some use, maybe:
I have an old Ford 851 tractor; early '50s vintage, 6V positive ground.
It has a new battery, and after a spell on the charger it will
start--grudgingly--then once, when I pulled the charger off after
starting it died. After another charge, it would start but would die if
I tried to lift the hydraulic buck rake, or tried to drive it away. I
checked charge voltage at the battery, and at a fast idle it would only
show 6V. I had the generator rebuilt, and installed a new VR. Boom: good
start, 6+ volts and plenty of juice to both move and operate the buck rake.
Conclusion: Coils provide a fixed ratio voltage increase, based on input
voltage. On this tractor, 6V--a charging generator should provide almost
7V at a fast idle--was enough to start and idle, but didn't provide
enough spark under load. I'm usually skeptical of coil failures, because
they have no moving parts and nothing to wear out, and my BJ8 with over
200K miles still has the original coil as does my BN2 (AFAIK) but it's
an easy and cheap enough 'fix' to attempt. It's also possible all the
previous 'fixes,' along with a new coil, put this engine 'over the top.'
Bob
On 5/4/2021 3:18 PM, Mike Sinclair wrote:
>
> A month ago, I wrote regarding my BJ8 which just suddenly quit.Â
> Hagerty brought it home. Diagnosis:
>
> It takes fuel, air, and spark to combust.
>
> Lots of fuel
>
> Spark
>
> Pretty sure there is air.
>
> Checked all the voltages, all per spec.
>
> Changed condenser, no improvement.
>
> Rotor and points are new.
>
> Someone suggested the cutoff switch in the boot might be bad. Checked
> the wire, and it wasn't even connected. Disconnected this wire at the
> coil and using my trusty ohmmeter, both ends went to ground. Aha!Â
> Intermittent ground! Fired it up; a little reluctant but it started
> up and seemed to run ok. Drove around the block a few times, came
> home and patted myself on the back. Next day took it out for a little
> longer run (2 miles) and it began to whimper badly 1/2 mile from
> home. Nursed it home.
>
> Thought about it (a lot) including the fact that it has always been
> very hard to start when cold, and even then runs poorly for a few
> seconds before it catches. Decided that maybe even though there was
> spark, maybe it wasn't strong enough. Bought a new coil.
>
> After installation, if fired up much easier, and runs great. Have
> been taking it on increasingly longer test runs and it seems fine. I
> hate to say it is cured, but seems to be.
>
> Thanks to all who replied with helpful hints.
>
> Mike
>
>
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Of some use, maybe:<br>
<br>
I have an old Ford 851 tractor; early '50s vintage, 6V positive
ground. It has a new battery, and after a spell on the charger it
will start--grudgingly--then once, when I pulled the charger off
after starting it died. After another charge, it would start but
would die if I tried to lift the hydraulic buck rake, or tried to
drive it away. I checked charge voltage at the battery, and at a
fast idle it would only show 6V. I had the generator rebuilt, and
installed a new VR. Boom: good start, 6+ volts and plenty of juice
to both move and operate the buck rake.<br>
<br>
Conclusion: Coils provide a fixed ratio voltage increase, based on
input voltage. On this tractor, 6V--a charging generator should
provide almost 7V at a fast idle--was enough to start and idle, but
didn't provide enough spark under load. I'm usually skeptical of
coil failures, because they have no moving parts and nothing to wear
out, and my BJ8 with over 200K miles still has the original coil as
does my BN2 (AFAIK) but it's an easy and cheap enough 'fix' to
attempt. It's also possible all the previous 'fixes,' along with a
new coil, put this engine 'over the top.'<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/4/2021 3:18 PM, Mike Sinclair
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:1311b761-869b-fec3-cb31-25ab77fd9687@comcast.net">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<p><font face="Tahoma">A month ago, I wrote regarding my BJ8 which
just suddenly quit. Hagerty brought it home. Diagnosis:</font></p>
<p><font face="Tahoma">It takes fuel, air, and spark to
combust.</font></p>
<p><font face="Tahoma">Lots of fuel</font></p>
<p><font face="Tahoma">Spark</font></p>
<p><font face="Tahoma">Pretty sure there is air.</font></p>
<p><font face="Tahoma">Checked all the voltages, all per spec.</font></p>
<p><font face="Tahoma">Changed condenser, no improvement.</font></p>
<p><font face="Tahoma">Rotor and points are new.<br>
</font></p>
<p><font face="Tahoma">Someone suggested the cutoff switch in the
boot might be bad. Checked the wire, and it wasn't even
connected. Disconnected this wire at the coil and using my
trusty ohmmeter, both ends went to ground. Aha! Intermittent
ground! Fired it up; a little reluctant but it started up and
seemed to run ok. Drove around the block a few times, came
home and patted myself on the back. Next day took it out for
a little longer run (2 miles) and it began to whimper badly
1/2 mile from home. Nursed it home.</font></p>
<p><font face="Tahoma">Thought about it (a lot) including the fact
that it has always been very hard to start when cold, and even
then runs poorly for a few seconds before it catches. Decided
that maybe even though there was spark, maybe it wasn't strong
enough. Bought a new coil.</font></p>
<p><font face="Tahoma">After installation, if fired up much
easier, and runs great. Have been taking it on increasingly
longer test runs and it seems fine. I hate to say it is
cured, but seems to be.</font></p>
<p><font face="Tahoma">Thanks to all who replied with helpful
hints.</font></p>
<p><font face="Tahoma">Mike</font><br>
</p>
<br>
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