The Moss replacements I bought a year or two ago did have the bends.
And for whatever reason, the threading matched my original handles.
-Roland
BN1 #724
On Sat, 29 May 2021 12:54:13 -0400, you wrote:
>I wouldn't think it would be too hard to bend the levers but 2 things.
>1. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT to subject the die-cast parts to any force. They are
>easily broken.
>2. Check that your chrome handles do screw into the threaded holes in the
>levers. Early cars were BSF later cars are UNF.
>
>M
>
>On Sat., May 29, 2021, 12:44 p.m. Michael MacLean, <
>springer.mike51@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> OK, I must have the non-Healey mechanisms. Lever with the threaded holes
>> are not bent, but straight up. That certainly explains the problem I am
>> having. Thanks Michael. Would new latch mechanisms from the usual
>> suppliers have the correct bend? How easy is it to bend the ones in the
>> car now?
>> Mike M
>>
>> On Sat, May 29, 2021, 8:23 AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> The door latch mechanisms used on pre convertible Healeys were made by
>>> Wilmot Breeden and fitted to numerous makes and models.
>>> Many do not have the 2 bends in the operating arm like the Healeys as can
>>> be seen in my pic.
>>> That "offset" created by the 2 bends keeps the pull cable clear of the
>>> door frame.
>>> .
>>> M
>>>
>>> On Sat., May 29, 2021, 12:43 a.m. Michael MacLean via Healeys, <
>>> healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Can someone tell me how and where to attach the door pull cables on my
>>>> BN2? I have been trying to put it under the flange of the chrome door
>>>> lever where it screws into the door shut mechanism, but it does not seem to
>>>> line up. The flanges of the inner door frame seem to be in the way. I can
>>>> see the hole at the other end (front of door frame) for the other end of
>>>> the cable. No problem there. Just need a little info on how to mount the
>>>> cable at the mechanism.
>>>> Mike MacLean
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