This might help (apologies if this has already been mentioned):
o Cut holes in the floor
o Drop the tubes done the holes, lowering things for working room
o Weld things up
o Raise the cage
o Slide the pads under the tubes, covering the holes
Message: 2
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 11:09:07 -0800
From: "Benn" <karhu@california.com>
Subject: Re: [Land-speed] rollcage welding
To: <land-speed@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <2BE417A28E6E4308BB8A7B664D872A21@BennsDesktop>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=response
Thanks for the response, Dave.
I don't think it'll be possible to get more than the main bar with some sleeve
stubs removed from the car temporarily--any significant extensions just won't
have enough room to maneuver.
I do kinda like the "slide it forward" approach: But I'm trying to get the
main hoop as tall as possible, and that means it fits behind the roof
reinforcement at the rear of the T-tops. I also only can move it forward about
4" (need up to 8" to get the main hoop into the dooropening) without moving the
front hoop closer to the main hoop, since the front hoop will othewise run into
the A-pillar.
Hmm, maybe the main hoop could be pivoted about its top without the front hoop
attached. Some puzzle-fitting may work by moving some bar positions a few
inches... Thanks for the thoughts--I may need to use some combination of all
these approaches.
So is the implication that I'd need at least "several" inches clearance to a
wall to get a good weld around the circumference of the side bars?
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