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Re: [Mg-t] Rusty nuts

To: <TATERRY@aol.com>, <mg-t@autox.team.net>, <mg-mmm@autox.team.net>,
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Rusty nuts
From: "Douglas Ormrod" <Douglas.Ormrod@neurological.org.nz>
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 11:12:14 +1300
Interesting. Acetone is highly flammable and volatile so if you went
that way I think you would have to make it up fresh each time. Nail
polish remover is mostly acetone.

Douglas


-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of TATERRY@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, 15 October 2009 8:25 a.m.
To: mg-t@autox.team.net; mg-mmm@autox.team.net; mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Mg-t] Rusty nuts

A friend sent me this....interesting!!
Terry in Oakland

For those who do their own restoration work, here's some interesting
comparisons on penetrating oils.

Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrates for break-out
torque on rusted nuts. They arranged a subjective test of all the
popular
penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut
from a
"scientifically rusted" environment.



*Penetrating Oil and Average Load*


Nothing..................... 516 pounds


WD-40....................... 238 pounds


PB Blaster................ 214 pounds


Liquid Wrench......... 127 pounds


Kano Kroil............... 106 pounds


ATF-Acetone mix..... 53 pounds



The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50-50 automatic
transmission
fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial
product in this one particular test.  Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is
about as
good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price
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