If you decide to go the JB Weld route, yes there is, I think, a better
product. It's called Marine-Tex. Not cheap but no good product is. The
gray is stiffer than the white and more appropriate for mechanical mends
than the white. It's formulated for marine fixes, obviously, and I swear
by the stuff. I've mended engine water jackets, radiators and fuel tanks
with it with no problems. I was even able to mend my wife's
great-grandfather's cane for my mother-in-law to use. And I like my
mother-in-law and don't want her to fall down. Use as directed, etc. Any
good marine shop should carry it.
Which bolt? Embedded jpgs don't come through the list.
Glenn
On 3/8/2013 1:00 PM, mg-t-request@autox.team.net wrote:
> Subject: [Mg-t] Cast Iron block lip broken
> Message-ID:<1bed7.241feb57.3e661176@aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> The oil pan lip on the engine block has one triangular piece broken in the
> bolt area.
>
> Theoretically - the other bolts in the area will hold the pan in place and
> it has never leaked there since the previous rebuilder put massive amounts
> of Red- RTV on the gasket surfaces.
>
> I would like to repair this section - but am afraid of damaging the cast
> block - anyone have experience doing this kind of work?
>
> My solutions are three:
>
> 1. Weld in thsi area - but this requires masive amounts of preheat and
> high local heat - so I have nixed this solution.
>
> 2. Fill in with brazing rod& retap - Brazing material is softer and at
> lower temps then welding - but still required high preheat and slow
> cooling - being that this area is on an outside lip - I do not believe I will
> have much to worry about shrinkage creating a crack - since the brazing
> material should strech enough not to create undue stress on the cast iron.
> The
> only problems are the preheat and cooling adn the hardening of the cast
> iron.
>
> 3. USE J-B Weld and reinforcing it with steel screen mesh and retapping
> - Drill 1/16" holes by 1/8" deep into the flange area near the screw
> threads and at the flange edge. J-B Weld 1/16" steel rod into these areas to
> form the bases of support and strength. Then cut pieces of screen to fit and
> overlay the outside portion of the lip in the area - then fill in with
> layers of J-B Weld and screen misture. After retapping - install a helicoil
> for the durability of the therads.
>
> This area does not need to be supper strong or super stressed under a high
> torque value - the pan is very rigid and the purpose is only to screw in a
> bolt to hold the gasket in place somehat tight.
>
> Has anyone had to make such a repair? Is J-B Weld a good strong resin to
> use with cast iron? or is there a better resin?
>
> Or just leave it alone?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Michael Balahutrak
> 53 - TD
______________________________________________
Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
|