Leaving the ignition on without the engine running is more likely to damage
the points or the coil (overheating) rather than the condenser. Have you
double checked the timing? Is it steady? Firing order (1, 8, 4, 3, 6, 5,
7, 2 *clock*-wise, not anti-clockwise like the 4-cylinder)? Separated the
plug lead runs to 5 and 7 with No. 3? Have you clipped a timing light onto
the coil lead and each plug lead and watched the flashes when it is
misfiring? Any erratic flashing indicates an ignition problem, if the plug
leads are erratic but the coil lead steady then it is the rotor or cap, if
all are erratic then points, coil or LT connections. Is the dwell steady?
A friend had an Edelbrock conversion on his factory V8 and that ran steadily
worse over a few hundred miles, then he discovered that the people who did
the conversion had used a 12v coil connected to a ballasted loom, and added
an external ballast for good measure! His coil was running on about 1/4 of
its proper voltage. What coil are you using and what voltage is it
receiving? 12v coils measure about 3 ohms at the primary, 6v coils about
1.5 ohms. A 12v sport coil I have measures about 2.4 ohms. With the points
closed and the ignition on you should have about 12v on a 12v coil +ve
terminal, and about 6v on a 6v coil +ve terminal. Both should show 12v with
the points open.
If all those are OK then it would seem like fuel.
What cam are you using? A friend just put a high-lift in his and it was as
rough as a bears ... backside unless it was really pulling. Idling or light
throttle cruising was very poor with surging. He's gone back to the
original and it is as smooth as a baby's bottom now.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
> My first test run of my MGB GT with Rover 3.5L was disaster and I need
some
> advice.
>
> The engine would die in a sort of jerky spluttery way -but no backfire. I
> seemed to get it going again by pumping on the throttle - but not certain
> if that did any good really. It got progressively worse ...
///
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