> - When the ignition is turned to the run position, I hear the expected
> fuel pump clicking; but it always keeps clicking (car not running).
> My last Midget seemed to pump enough to build pressure or fill the bowls
> or ??? and eventually became quiet until some more fuel was needed.
> Which is the normal (expected) behavior? Is the 74 not building up
> pressure or have some other problem?
If you are dripping gas from somewhere, you've got a bad seal somewhere
downstream of the pump (likely to be needle valves). If no drip (the more
likely scenario) you've got an air leak. Check the seating of the fuel lines
and for any cracks in flexible lines.
> - This car runs extremely rough (moved it to Colorado Springs). There is
> no power until I reach about 1800-2000 rpm. The engine also does not
> seem to want to reach full rpm when sitting in my garage with my foot
> on the pedal. One of the carbs needed oil, but it didn't seem to make
> a difference. Additionally, it seems to run better at low rpm fully
> choked (even when warm); this stikes me as strange since it already is
> probably running rich for this altitude. After trying to bring it to
> full rpm, I rechecked the carb piston movement -- one of the pistons
> no longer dropped all the way down after I lifted it; it was getting
> stuck on a small piece which fell down the center (what is this???).
> I was able to move that piece around so it was centered again and let
> the piston fall back down around it.
Two problems here?
1) More evidence of fuel starvation (above problem).
2) The loose piece is the carb needle. This is held in the piston by a
small set screw in the side of the piston. You'll need to take the piston
chambers off (two screws on the outside perimeter of the cover), remove the
piston and reset the needle. Tighten the screw with the needle shoulder
(wide end) flush with the bottom surface of the piston. Be sure to get all
the parts back in the right order. Replace the piston with the needle gently
lowered into the center jet inside the carb body. Replace the piston cover
(dashpot) tighten the perimeter screws and you're done.
After that procedure, you should be able to lift and drop the piston through
the intake. The piston should drop smartly with no binding. If it doesn't,
repeat the above procedure making sure everything is clean and lubricated
with a LIGHT oil. I use automatic transmission fluid. Make sure the dashpots
are refilled (about 1-2 tablespoons each) with a light oil (ATF again). In
fact, maybe you want to clean and lightly lubricate everything the first
time.
> Do I swap this carb set with another from one of my parts cars? Or is
> this a timing problem (or both)? I haven't dug too far into it yet to
> check the timing, points, etc. The plugs were fine (although gapped a
> little too much).
Probably not. The tuning and balancing necessary probably is not justified
until you do the obvious things above.
> - Is static timing acceptable for tuning this car? Or won't it get me
> close enough?
It should get you close enough to run, but again, don't start fiddling with
this until the obvious things are fixed. If timing is necessary, fine. A
static time will be close, but I find a light necessary after the car is
running and warm
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