On Wed, 6 Mar 1996, Allan R. Hovis wrote:
>
> More info follows. I have checked the timing and all is well. The car
> will now run OK at idle but if I give it any gas, it will begin to run
> very rough and stall. Lifting the piston on the front carb all the way
I had this symptom last week when the needle in the rear carb dropped.
It blocked off the fuel and kept the piston propped up, so that the mix
from the rear carb was extremely lean.
You can tell by taking the air filters off and moving the carb pistons up
and down by hand. The needle should move with the piston, and both
should move freely.
> seems to have little effect while the rear carb will kill the engine if I
> do the same. If I put my had over the intake of the rear carb when
> running I get a lot of suction and the car will stall if I keep it there
> very long while on the front carb I get about 1/2 the suction (not a
> calibrated hand) and only a little change in the running. I have a crane
> electronic ignition and it SEEMS to be working OK. I guess my next step
> will be to pull the carbs (yuck) and do a complete check unless someone
> can give me a better idea.
>
You have to balance the carbs better than that before you'll be able to
adjust the "weak" one. The fuel-line stethescope technique (compare the
sound of the air rushing into each carb and adjust the throttle linkage
to make them equal will work in a rough sense but the Unisyn (Unison?) is
even better. I've spent a lot of time chasing mixture on a carb which
wasn't even contributing to the overall airflow.
I'd check these things before taking the carbs off..
John M. Trindle | jtrindle@tsquare.com | Tidewater Sports Car Club
'73 MGB DSP | '69 Spitfire E Stock | '88 RX-7 C Stock
"1st Law of OleoHydroDynamics - Little British Cars Leak. - JMT"
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