On 6 Mar 96 at 18:06, REICHLE, CHRISTOPHER wrote:
>
> When you rotate the adjuster screw, you need to turn it in half turns. The
> end of the adjuster screw has a flattened tip. So you want to turn it a half
> turn to the next flat side. Turn it few times and you'll see what I mean.
> Leaving the adjuster screw on a non flattened side of the tip will surely
> readjust to the lower flattened point when you step on the brake.
Actaully, in quarter turns. If you can't feel the flats as you turn the
adjuster, or if it is stiff to turn, it's clean up time. This is the process
for MGB's- the Spridgets are the same, except you can't remove the adjuster
body from the backing plate:
-Remove the brake drum
-remove your shoes. Phew! put them back on- remove your *brake* shoes!
(Brake shoe Tip: don't try to pull the springs out first. Just pull the shoes
out of their notch, first at the adjuster, then at the brake cylinder. Now
you'll be able to release tension on the springs, and remove them easily.
Refiting is the reverse of removal...)
-remove the adjuster nuts from the back side of the backing plate. being
careful not to snap the studs if they are rusted together.
-remove the adjuster body, can clean up all 4 parts with a wire wheel, or
what ever you have handy.- the body, adjuster cone, and the plungers.
-Coat the inside contacting surfaces of the adjuster and plungers with a tad
of anti-seize (copa-coat), makeing sure not to get any near the brake surface.
-reassemble everything. You'll find your brakes adjust much easier, and will
continue to do so.
________
/ _ \ Roger Garnett (Roger-Garnett@cornell.edu)
/ /|| \ \ Agricultural Economics | The Wayward Sports Car Centre
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