Hi,
In our early days (1977-'81) we would agree to fit either a generator or a
voltage regulator and do proper testing to try to see which was needed. Our
repair was often right and frequently wrong prompting a new diagnosis and
estimate and usually a repeat of work. No fun, no profit, no satisfaction.
For over 15 years, our approach to correcting charging faults in
generator cars has been to replace the generator (new or rebuilt) and voltage
regulator (new), polarize the generator, check and charge the battery, clean
and test the connections and check for drains. Some owners have luck with
partial replacement but usually a wrong guess ruins whichever component
wasn't replaced and the ensuing costly and time-wasting chase to correct the
problem is not enjoyable.
There will be disagreement over this approach and I offer that this method
was obtained after a reasonable sample size (more than 20 cars) had yielded
their varying results. Since using this approach we may have had one failure
due to a defective voltage regulator, one due to poor soldering on a rebuilt
generator, one due to a monster stereo and alarm system and no failures due
to bad guessing. Charging system faults in generator cars should be
non-normal and extremely infrequent.
Many of the cars we work on are daily and only cars driven by non-DIY
drivers who value their time. The price of either a regulator or a generator
is often less than a tow on a roll-back. We warranty our parts and services
for a year and our workmanship is unconditionally guaranteed.
The replacement of generator and voltage regulator every time one of them
fails is a sure path to proper voltage and amperage and, except in the minds
of false-economists, is not an example of overcharging.
Have fun,
Jeff and your friends at Motorhead
2811-B Old Lee Hwy
Fairfax, VA 22031
(800) 527-3140
http://www.erols.com/mtrhd
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Subj: Generator/Charging system Wisdom sought - lengthy - '67 MGB
I'm seeking net wisdom on a generator situation on my '67 MGB. First, let
me point out that I have 2 regulators, and my charging system acts the same
reguardless of which I use, so, I figure the regulators are both ok.
Second, I have installed an ammeter, a voltmeter, and a clock in my car, and
therefore, I always can know exactly what the charging system is doing. I
mention the clock because both the clock and the ammeter are on the same
power line (also with the stereo and electric antenae(sp?)), and have power
at all times, in the original condition, I don't think anything on the car
had power at all times, if this is likely to be causing the problem, let me
know if I can cirrect this and keep the accessories. The power for these
comes off the second post on the regulator. That wire usually is a short
jumping across the engine compartment (brown wire). I have removed the
brown wire, and installed one that goes to the ammeter. off the ammeter I
have the clock, and the stereo, and a large wire going back to the engine
compartment were the brown wire went. Voltmeter is powered off the ignition,
and only has power when the car is on.
Here's the problem:
When I start the car, the ammeter shows a discharge, and the idiot light
lights. This does not go away simply by revving the engine to 2 or 3
thousand rpms. However, if I want to (approximately) red line the engine
for about 3 seconds, the situation does in fact go away, and the system does
charge from then on - however, I am not getting enough charge to keep the
battery charged if I have the lights, heater, and radio on.
I also have 2 generators, but one has gone bad ... its commutator end of the
armature has a burn on it. I don't know how or why it got this burn, but I
was wondering if this could be caused by my power to the clock, ammeter,
stereo, and antennae(sp?) somehow.
Thanks,
Phil Bates
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