On Monday, June 3, 1996 Ed McCarroll wrote:
>I have a 1961 MGA with the stock headlights and generator.
>Is it feasible to convert the headlights to halogens and is it an
>involved proces? If it can be done, are their any recommendations
>as to which systems or parts to use?
>
I installed a pair of Lucas PL-700s on my '62 'A' back in the late '70s
...
I'm sure that more efficient units are available, but PLs sure look good
on the 'A' <g>. Using low wattage bulbs, I did not encounter any
difficulties with the stock wiring harness ... however, I would suggest
that you chat with Barry Berg.
Larry Unger
ungerl@reston.unisysgsg.com
On Tuesday, May 28, 1996 Barry Berg <barry.berg@nwa.com> wrote:
>Hella makes replacement headlights sold in the US. The 7 inch rounds
>fit the B perfectly. (Note they are not legal for use on autos
>in the US, however, this has been ignored for the past 20 years I have
>been using them.) They use an H4 Quartz Halogen bulb, and come with
>a 55/65 Watt bulbs. Many other sizes are available, but if you
>choose to use them, you should add an auxiliary wiring harnas. The
>beams offer an E-code lighting pattern, which makes more effective
>use of the light, and keeps the light directed away from other driver's
>eyes. This means that your low beams can also provide fog light
>capabilities. The High Beam is also a better pattern, and while not
>as effective as a driving light, do rather well. I use a 90/130 watt
>PIAA Crystal Iode Light (Low beams are yellow/High beams are white)
>bulbs and a PIAA High current harnas on my 1978 B. I like this
>set up, as it means I don't need any auxillary lights to spoil the
>lines of the B. Costs can very but the Hella's run locally in
>Minnesota about $60 a pair, H4 bulbs can run anywhere from $4 each
>to $30 each for the crystal iodes I run. A harnas can run from
>about $30 - $60 depending on the wattage range you use.
>
>I would recommend the use of a harnas regardless of the wattage
>you run. Lucas never seemed to run a big enough gauge wire to
>the lamps, and the load on the switches tend to shorten their
>life expectancy. Use of a harnas reduces the current load on
>the lucas components.
>
>Another little change I made, is the use of a terminal post. From
>the point on the starter motor where the main Positive lead from the
>battery attaches, I have run a piece of #4 welding cable (abt 4
>feet -- purchased from a welding supply shop for about $5 bucks.
>for about $5 more he attached a pair of copper ring ends on.) to
>a terminal post I have mounted in the engine compartment. This
>may be obtained from any Audi Parts counter for about $6. It is
>used to provide a place to jump start an Audi 5000 whose battery is
>located under the rear seat. [Works well for a B whose battery
>IS the back seat! :-) ] Not only does it provide a convienient
>place to hook the charger without ripping up the rear ledge over
>the winter, but it makes a great place to get electrical power under
>the hood to hook up such things as auxiliary harnasses. You will
>need to add a metric bolt , a couple of washers, and one or two
>nuts -- but it is a nice addition to the B's engine compartment.
>
>There is a lot more about lighting and lighting systems, and I am
>sorry I don't have the time and space to go farther. I usually offer
>abt a two hour tech session to the local club each year on this
>subject. I am sure you have someone who does the same in your
>area, if not drop me a line.
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