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Kriss Bickel wites RE: Top Hardware

To: mgs@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Kriss Bickel wites RE: Top Hardware
From: John Bartholomew <jdb70@juts.ccc.amdahl.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 97 15:35 PST
>Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 18:52:45 -0800
>From: "Kriss Bickel" <kbickel@netcom.com>
>Subject: MGB Convertable Top Hardware


>Hi All,

>I'm looking for two things. First, does anyone have any good ideas on how
>to repair missing nuts that hold the convertable top frame to the car. 
>I've got 4 MGB's and two of them are missing one or >more on each side
>making folding the top up or down hazardous to the >door rails. I've tried
a >few things but nothing so far has worked.  Second, in switching computers
>over the years I've lost a collection of tips, rantings, etc. written by a
>Scott Fisher.
>I don't know who compiled it, what list is was on, or anything. Any
>info pointing me in the right direction would be helpful.
Kriss,
     My solution to this problem was to cut two approximately triangular 1/8
thick steel plates and drill pilot holes to match the fixing holes for the
long countersunk screws that hold the roof hardware to the side panels
behind the doors. Having made the plates and drilled the pilot holes, I
secured three nuts, (the size of the countersunk fixing screws), with
smaller screws nuts and washers. Pass the small screw through the larger nut
and use the washers and small nut to secure the larger nut in place. Then I
brazed the large nuts to the rear of the plate, removed the securing screws,
nuts & washers, then enlarged the holes in the fixing plate, so the roof
fixing screws would pass through and screw into the nuts.  Having fabricated
the plate, I carefully removed the remaining captivated nuts inside the rear
door panels, by inserting a long steel screw into any remaining nuts and
with the aid of vise grips attached to the screw, worked the screw from side
to side to break the spot welds. I finally mounted the plates I had made, to
the panels with a small sheet metal screw into the center of each plate.
Make sure the new fixings line up with the centers of the holes left by the
removed old fixings, then I tack welded the whole thing in a few places to
make it a more sturdy permanent fixture. When and if you attempt this task
take precaution to prevent loosing everything you drop inside the body
structure  ( you will drop something!)  I lost my first plate, it jammed so
nicely into the dog leg of the rear fender it was not retrievable with
anything! I then stuffed some rags into the area, so that I could recover
items dropped.  However, remember to remove any combustibles before any
welding is to be done. If I can help further, get back to me. 
By the way, I tried to send a copy of this to you directly, your mail bounced 
a couple of times.   John.
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E-mail jdb70@juts.ccc.amdahl.com  John Bartholomew Amdahl San Jose CA.
408-746-6361 07:00-16:00 PST.  **  USUAL DISCAILMERS APPLY  **
1969 MGBGT;1974 MGB;1976 MGB-RESTORED;1979 MGB;1972 MGB daily driver.
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