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A frame

To: mgs@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: A frame
From: phil sims <phil@wilsongriak.com>
Date: Thu, 22 May 1997 08:56:32 -0500
>X-POP3-Rcpt: phil@server
>Date: Thu, 22 May 1997 09:48:22 -0500 (EST)
>From: "MIKE LAMBDIN, CANS" <E720LAM@TOE.TOWSON.EDU>
>Subject: A frame
>To: mgs@autox.team.net
>MIME-version: 1.0
>Sender: owner-mgs@autox.team.net
>Precedence: bulk
>Reply-To: "MIKE LAMBDIN, CANS" <E720LAM@TOE.TOWSON.EDU>
>
>I've got my A disassembled down to the frame for cleaning and treating.
>My question: what's the best way to take care of the inside surface of
>the frame, which isn't accessible? Fortunately the frame is in good
>condition - no rust spots.
>
>Also, what's the easiest/safest way to remove the axel and leaf springs?
>
>Any info is appreciated.
>
>
>Mike Lambdin
>

Hey MIKE;

I can't answer the question of how to treat the inside of your frame,
although it is a good one (rust never sleeps). When I did my A I had the
frame sandblasted and I repainted with self-etching primer and acrylic
emamel paint.

I can tell you what I did do remove the rear axel. The only "spring" in the
springs whrn the frame is supported and the axel is hanging is held by the
rubber "check straps". If you jack up the axel a little to put slack in the
straps and remove them first, then lower the axel into a relaxed position,
you can then simple unbolt the thing without fear. It isn't all that heavy.
I chose to remove the diff and axel stubs to further reduce the weight, but
you can lift it off the springs by yourself after removing the shakle
u-bolts...be sure to grunt like Arnold just for effect.


good luck!!

Phil Sims
Wilson-Griak,Inc.
(612)377-7900
phil@wilsongriak.com



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