Hi Bill Eastman!!
On Wed, 25 Jun 1997, Bill Eastman wrote:
> A 9 hp gain is about 10% on an A so the 0-60 time would drop from about 12
> to about 11 seconds. I still won't be threatening anything above minivans
> in a drag race. As far as high rpm point bounce goes, the A makes more
Yes, but go up against another "A", and I guarrantee you'll be happy
with the little old 9 hp gain...
> noise than power above 5000 rpm so I don't think that this will effect
> performance. It is a wonderful noise, however.
One of the reasons is spark timing variation (scatter) due to point
bounce, among other things. The fix used to be to use the competition
point-set with the 32 ounce spring tension, and to stay on top of it
when the gap closed up due to the accelerated rubbing block wear.
> changes in 30 seconds, and did it again in the exact same way, I doubt that
> you coud tell the difference. I once spent an entire day changing jets and
You're right, you can't. You need a reference, preferably calibrated,
to measure against. Race against a "mule", or use a dyno (more
accurate).
> response than on the feeling of acceleration. K&N filters and headers are
> louder than the stock units that they replace. This probably has as much
> to do (along with the need to justify the expenditure) with the feeling of
> increase performance as any actual number changes.
It's been shown over and over in engine dyno tests that a K&N filter
DOES allow the engine to breath better, resulting in more available
power. The same with the headers, and the free flow mufflers. Borla
has timing slips showing a decrease in et using one of their drag/race
mufflers compared to open pipes.
> Want to increase the performance of your LBC a few hp for minimum expense?
If you have an mga head, throw it away and install a stock 1800 head.
Grind the edges of the stock intake manifold to let it flow better.
> This is probably not the case. If you want performance, tune for
> performance and screw the idle.
Well, you DO have a lot of needle profiles to choose from, so you don't
really have to "screw" the idle.
> Having said all of that, I also admit that the MGA runs K&N filters and
Do you have the K&N stub stacks that fit inside the air filter?? They
really DO make a difference to the air flow into the mouth of the carbs.
There's a mod for the Ford diesel air intake that is exactly the same
thing, being sold in the RV magazines. It's been tested, and it works.
TTUL8r, Kirk Cowen (who wants reliability and ground pounding power)
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