This whole process is made a lot easier if you drill 1/2" holes in the
crossmember when it is out. These holes make it much easier to tighten
the trans mounts- stick a 1/4" extension thru the holes and then place
the socket on the extension and then tighten the mounts.. Saves about an
hour w/ an open end wrench.
Larry Dickstein
bugide@juno.com
"If you're stupid, you'll have to pay for it"
On Thu, 25 Sep 1997 23:33:10 -0400 (EDT) Joanne Hershfield/Jim Fink
<hershfld@email.unc.edu> writes:
>This is a process I hve been asked to publish, it is late, I am tired
>and
>have to think upside down to regurgitate the process....
>if you are in the midst of getting ready to actually do this, post me
>directly and I will go into more detail.if I can ..or if I forget the
>order or you find a better way, good, this task procedure varies based
>on
>circumstance and luck...
>
>Installing tranny mounts, and tranny rear back into MGB.. POST MKI
>
>Assuming tranny is now back in car, and crossmember is still out,
>clean
>crossmember, re-install mounts to crossmember, figure out forward
>facing
>direction by looking at notes or check another MGB..! disclaimers
>apply..
>
>Jack up back of tranny, offer crossmember to body and loosely apply
>one
>pair of bolts from crossmember to body, one side only, no maybe both
>sides, just keep her loose... lower tranny to near mount touching,
>keep
>things from being snug so you can wiggle the mounts...
>
>I use a drift, short stubby phillips might work, the drift is like a
>punch but with a 1/4" or so stubby end, higher the car is jacked up
>the
>better.... use the drift to secure one tranny mount hole in lign with
>tranny threads, work a nut into the other thread hole while probing
>around
>with the drift to change the mating angles..(hmmm) now go gently, the
>threads are aluminum, don't round out the threads..., one one nut is
>in, i
>think i go to do the same on the other side, opposite nut... then
>while
>ligning up the free hole with the probe tighten down the nuts or lower
>the
>tranny to add more tension, a small 7/16" socket with univ. joint a
>screwdriver handle driver will fit for the rear facing nuts I think...
>not
>sure, but I recall trying this while I could still pull the
>crossmember to
>the side to get at the nuts,,, while stuff still loose, perhaps after
>two of the
>nuts are in I disconnected the crossmeber from the body, or kept it
>loose
>the whole time and just held it up somehow...., hmm, I think the
>initial
>procedure was correct... bolt up lightly, get 1 pair of mount to
>tranny
>nuts started then unbolt crossmember from body to
>twist the mounts out of the way to get at the forward pair easier....
>or to help enable gettting a small socket on the nuts to tighten
>faster
>than a 1/8 turn of an open end...
>sorry, have to be there, but I know these are tricks I have used to
>get
>this done in less than 30+ minutes.... damn, the shoulders and neck
>and
>arms are a hurtin just visualizin this again..
>anyway, the probe and pressure from a started nut are the key and the
>a
>metal bar, 2x4 or something can help position the other holes..and or
>move the crossmember out of the way to gain access with a small socket
>to
>tighten up...
>. sorry I am using way too much bandwidth.
>
>.. GOOD LUCK....
>Jim Fink
>hershfld@email.unc.edu
>
>
>
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